The supply chain of a company represents every step along the way of production, meaning that abuses can happen thousands of miles from a company’s base and never be caught or noticed.

A corporation’s supply chain is the structure of sources, suppliers, and producers of a corporation’s products . Because there are so many steps between an idea and the sale of the actual product, it’s easy for companies to engage in unethical work conditions—whether that be environmental or in terms of human rights—and often these abuses go unaccounted for. Recently, there’s been a push to track and regulate companies’ supply chains to reduce the number of environmental and human rights abuses throughout supply chains.

The most prominent issue in most companies’ supply chains is some form of forced labor. This can present in a very straightforward way: full on modern slavery, with workers working entirely against their will(s). However, this can also manifest in less obvious but also horrifying ways such as unfair and unlivable wages, unsafe working conditions and the impossibility for workers to quit if and/or when they want to. The reason that all of these abuses are called “supply chain issues” is because whichever company that makes the final product must be held responsible for human rights abuses at any point in its production, even if it seems far removed from the final product. 

In addition to overworking and underpaying workers overseas, there have been many reports of sexual violence and even murder within garment factories. In 2021, a garment worker in India named Jayasre Kathiravel was murdered by her boss after months of sexual harassment at his hands. Prior to her death, she reported to friends and family that she felt extremely unsafe and did not feel it was possible to leave her job. There have also been fires in garment factories due to unsafe and crowded working conditions, such as the fire in 2012 in Bangladesh which tragically killed at least 112 people. Despite efforts following the fire to improve safety in these factories, garment workers in Bangladesh continue to report feeling unsafe today. There are several organizations that are striving to hold companies accountable for egregious abuses such as these, because even if the company is based halfway across the world, if the root of the problem is not regulated, change is unlikely.

Another issue, in addition to human rights abuses, is the environmental impact of large corporations. The fast fashion industry alone is responsible for 10% of pollution. Much of this pollution occurs in ways that the consumer doesn’t see. By producing so much clothing so rapidly, and then having to transport all of that clothing all around the world on a daily basis, massive amounts of resources are used, and a massive amount of CO2 is released into theatmosphere. Many of the same laws and organizations that are tackling the regulation of working conditions for large corporations are also pushing for environmental regulations. 

One organization that is working hand in hand with lawmakers in the U.S. to improve supply chain issues is the New Standard Institute. The New Standard Institute primarily focuses on the fashion industry, which is widely known for being one of the worst industries in terms of egregious human rights abuses as well as environmental damage. The New Standard Institute is working to push for The Fashion Sustainability and Social Accountability Act (The Fashion Act), a law which has been proposed in the state of New York  but would have repercussions throughout the entire world. The Fashion Act would regulate clothing and footwear brands with over $100 million revenues, forcing them to map the majority of their supply chain. The brands would then have to figure out which area of their supply chain produces the worst environmental and social effects (in terms of pay equality and greenhouse gas emissions specifically) and provide an enactable agenda for how to improve in those areas. If the brand in question has not made the progress that they promised within 12 to 18 months they would be subject to fines of up to 2% of their annual income. The companies would also have to make their environmental and human rights statistics readily available on the internet. While this law has only been proposed in New York, most supply chain abuses for major companies occur outside of the United States, and since New York provides such a major market, it will be in these corporations’ best interests to comply with the The Fashion Act if it is passed.

California passed a similar law in 2010 which focused on slavery in the garment industry, and other European countries as well as Australia have fair trade laws. So, the Fashion Act would not be the first law of its kind if passed, but given the revenue brought in from New York, it would likely have a significant impact globally.

TO GET INVOLVED

There are several things that an individual can do to support supply chain regulation and a decrease in human rights abuse and pollution. As a consumer, one can be mindful of the brands that they support, and research a brand’s track record when it comes to workers’ rights and the environment. Unfortunately, most affordable brands are able to stay so affordable due to poor wages or completely unpaid labor. However, if limiting where you buy from is not an option, you can also research to see which affordable brands have plans in place to decrease their negative impact within the next few years. Additionally, there are several organizations pushing for regulation to support, such as the New Standard Institute (mentioned above), and the Ethical Training Initiative, which hosts training on how to be an ethical consumer, and supports workers in their unionization efforts and more. Additionally, you can contact your representative and tell them you support The Fashion Act, and ask what they have done to support regulation in their area. And finally, the simplest way to help with this problem is just to buy less.

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Calliana is currently an undergraduate student at Boston University majoring in English and minoring in psychology. She is passionate about sustainability and traveling in an ethical and respectful way. She hopes to continue her writing career and see more of the world after she graduates.