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Hiking in the Canadian Rockies: The Natural Magic of Waterton National Park

Find some of the best hikes in the world on the southern Canadian border.

Waterton Lakes seen from the Prince of Wales. Sean Tseng, CC BY-SA 4.0

Uniquely positioned as the only national park in both the United States and Canada at the same time and known as an International Peace Park, and the first of its kind, Waterton is a once-in-a-lifetime experience. During my two weeks there, I discovered hidden waterfalls, hiked over miles of snow and ice, and took a step back into Canadian history.

Our first destination was the Prince of Wales Hotel. Positioned on top of a hill overlooking the beautiful Upper Waterton Lake, this building was constructed in 1927 and has remained one of the most recognizable landmarks in the entire park. The interior is a classic 20th-century hotel, complete with a manually-operated crank elevator. Niagara, the restaurant within the hotel, holds high tea in the drawing room in the afternoons, bringing guests back to Victorian England, complete with pastries and ornate British tea sets.

The Prince of Wales Hotel. Royalbroil, CC BY-SA 3.0

Heading down along the steep path on the hillside, we arrived in the small town of Waterton on the edge of the lake. The sleepy mountain village was a lovely experience; it felt like taking a trip back through Canadian history, complete with uniformed mounties patrolling the streets. The town opens up onto a variety of hiking trails into the surrounding mountains and along the shores of the lake.

Taking one of these mountain paths, we climbed up and around the foothills and into a gorgeous pine forest. Making our way along the rocky outcroppings and winding paths, we found ourselves facing a thundering waterfall only a few minutes after we started out. This would prove to be the standard for our trip; it seems like everywhere you look, there’s another beautiful vista or secret wonder waiting to be discovered.

Just a few minutes’ drive from the hotel, we arrived in Red Rock Canyon, a small but beautiful gap in the earth lined by small brush and occasionally frequented by coyotes. Thankfully, we didn’t run into any of them on our trail, but at the viewing spot at the end of the short hike we spotted one scampering along the bank of the small river far below us. This canyon is also a known visiting spot for both brown and grizzly bears; their presence in the park has led seasoned travelers to suggest carrying noisemakers or regularly shouting, “Hey, bear!” to avoid taking the huge animals by surprise and risking an attack.

After a few days enjoying the sights of Waterton, we made our way further west and crossed the border back into the US’s Glacier National Park to visit some of the last remaining glaciers in North America. One of these ancient ice giants, Jackson Glacier, is visible from the side of the famous Going-to-the-Sun Road. This winding path along the side of the Rocky Mountains sits at an elevation of around 6,000 feet and is lined with waterfalls and scenic vistas. If you’re lucky, you can spot herds of bighorn sheep climbing the hills alongside the road; with their unique hooves, they can cling to a sheer rock wall as if it was flat ground. And as long as the weather is good, you can clearly see the massive ice sheet that carved out the valleys below, suspended between two peaks in the far distance.

Jackson Glacier as seen from Going-to-the-Sun Road. MONGO, CC BY-SA 4.0

Further along the road, we came to our next stop; a trailhead that led out into a massive field of snow. With bandanas and wool hats to resist the biting cold, we started out across what looked like a scene straight out of a Hallmark movie. But after a few feet, we discovered that there was actually a wooden walkway—about three yards beneath us. This massive field of snow was in reality a mountain of its own; it was several yards deep and miles wide in all directions.

After picking our way along the often slippery surface of the snowy mountain, we found ourselves in another forest, this one populated by tons of wild mountain goats. Groups of hikers stood along the roped-off path, snapping photos of the adorable baby goats as they rooted through the snow and brush for food. We also spotted some wolverines, keeping their distance from us as they hunted for prey along the upper slopes of the mountain.

A mountain goat with its kid. Photo by author.

Once we had descended to our car again, we made our way back north to our last stop: Many Glacier Hotel, overlooking Swiftcurrent Lake. After dropping off our things, we hopped on board one of the boating tours. We were taken across the lake to the opposite shore, where we briefly hiked our way through the foothills before hopping on another boat and circling back around. During our cruise, we were given the history of the area, from the area’s original residents, the Cheyenne and Blackfoot tribes, to the park’s founding in 1910.

Waterton and Glacier are some of the most beautiful national parks in the world; despite being overshadowed by Yellowstone and the Grand Canyon, there is nothing quite like hiking across miles of snow and viewing the ancient glaciers that formed the landscape of America and Canada. The wildlife, the environment and even the towns of Waterton are steeped in natural beauty and wonder; anyone who enjoys hiking and loves a good view should make their way to Waterton once in their lives.

There are many ways to visit and stay in Waterton. The closest airport to the park is Kalispell (FCA), although for some Calgary International Airport (YYC) may be preferable. The Prince of Wales Hotel from this article is open for online bookings in the spring and summer at their website, and other lodgings are bookable here and on other sites you can find through Google Hotels. Prices in the area generally range from around $130 to $150 per night.