Pathways and Pilgrimages: Exploring The Camino de Santiago
This pilgrimage to the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela in Spain has been a centerpiece of Christian spiritual life for thousands of years, and a destination for travelers around the world.
The Camino de Santiago, also known as the Way of St. James, marks a pilgrimage to the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela in Galicia, an autonomous community in northwestern Spain. Extending roughly 500 miles and taking about 30 to 35 days to complete at an average of around 15 miles per day, the Camino is known today both as a center for Christian spiritual life and a hiking haven for travelers looking to submerge themselves in nature with affordable accommodations and opportunities to adventure through local villages along the way.
Today, around 300,000 travelers make their way through the Camino every year, and those who complete the journey earn a Compostela Pilgrims Certificate. According to measurements from 2021, 45% of travelers reported walking the Camino for “religious and other reasons” while 30% reported walking the Camino strictly for religious reasons and 24% said they had no religious reasons for the pilgrimage. The growing popularity of the Camino as a secular travel experience as well as a religious one is aided by its accessibility. While daily expenditures on the Camino depend largely on the town one is stopping in, travelers can plan to budget for about $30 a day to cover the cost of food. Albergues, or hostels specifically made for pilgrims, are also a reliable and affordable option for accommodations along the Camino, with municipal albergues typically costing between $5 to $10 per person, while private albergues range between $12 and $15 per person. Via Lusitana helps connect travelers to albergues along the Camino Portugues.
While there is no exact starting point to the Camino, there are a handful of popular routes to choose from including Camino del Norte, Camino Primitivo, and Camino Ingles. The two most popular routes are that of the Camino Frances, which begins in Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port in southwest France, and the Camino Portuguese which starts from Portugal’s coastal city of Porto. While the Camino Frances covers 500 miles, the Camino Portuguese offers two distinct routes: the Camino Portuguese Central route which is 385 miles and the Camino Portuguese Coastal route which is 175 miles.
The Camino became a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1993 and was recognized as the first European Cultural Route in 1987, however its history is one that dates back to the 9th century, when remains of the apostle James were believed to be found in Galicia. Saint James preached in the Iberian peninsula before returning to Jerusalem, where he was beheaded by the king Herod Agrippa I in 44 AD. The legend surrounding St. James details how his body was transported from Jerusalem to Spain via a boat and was buried by his followers in Galicia in what is now the city of Santiago de Compostela.
The tomb was discovered in the 9th century by the bishop Theodomir. Upon its discovery the King of Asturia, Alfonso II, widely considered the first pilgrim to the Santiago de Compostela, traveled to the site and ordered that a church be built at the place of burial. Construction began in 1075 and the church was consecrated in 1211.
To accommodate an increase of pilgrimages through the Camino in the Middle Ages, bridges and other infrastructure were built along the route to aid travelers. Between the 11th and 13th century, the Camino’s rising popularity gave rise to a network of housing options and medical services along the route, including hospitals chartered by European kings.
The Camino’s many routes were created by early travelers who shared information amongst themselves regarding the safest travel conditions, which nearby towns to stop in, and where to source food and water throughout the journey. Though lacking official infrastructure, these paths became well defined by the pilgrims who traveled them for hundreds of years. It was not until the 1980s that Father Elías Valiña Sampedro, a priest of a neighboring Galician village, added yellow arrows along the path in an attempt to prevent travelers from getting lost.
Camino Frances
As the most popular route, the Camino Frances sees around 55% of all travelers on the Camino de Santiago. Embarking on the French Way is one of the most social options to experience the Camino, and those who do so are sure to run into fellow pilgrims and have opportunities to build connections and a sense of camaraderie along the way.
The entire Camino Frances starts at St Jean Pied de Port, a commune in southwest France, and extends roughly 500 miles and takes about 30 to 34 days to complete with an average of about 15 miles per day. However, the most popular starting point for travelers along the Camino is found at the last 60 miles of the pilgrimage, in the city of Sarria. This last stretch of the Camino takes approximately 7 days and passes through the towns of Portomarin, Melide and Arzua.
Travelers embarking on the Camino Frances will move through the Pyrenees mountain range and into the La Rioja region of Northern Spain. Travelers interested in enjoying the region’s world famous vineyards can explore a variety of wine tours showcasing the region’s diverse earthly flavors.
Other notable traveling stops along the Camino Frances include the Spanish city of Pamplona, whose yearly San Fermín Festival every July features the country’s world-famous bull runs. When the festival is not happening, the Pamplona remains a popular resting spot for travelers along the Camino to explore Gothic and Renaissance art at the Museum of Navarra and the historic Plaza del Castillo where cafes and bars such as Cafe Iruna served as prominent landmarks in American novelist Ernest Hemmingway’s life and writing.
Another highlight along the Camino Frances is the sculpture of El Alto del Perdon, which shows metal silhouettes representing pilgrims traveling through the Camino on foot and horseback. The art piece is located near the town of Puente de la Reina, a historical meeting point for early pilgrims traveling the Camino through a variety of routes along the Pyrenees. The town’s current architecture derives from attempts to accommodate pilgrims during the Middle Ages, including the bridge constructed under Queen Muniadona to assist pilgrims in their travels. The bridge is responsible for the town’s namesake, with Puente de la Reina translating to “the queen’s bridge.”
Camino Portugues
An alternative to the Camino Frances, the Camino Portugues begins in Portugal and moves the coastline up to Galicia as the second most popular path for the Camino de Santiago pilgrimage. The route gained popularity in the 12th century after Portugal gained its independence when Queen Isabel of Portugal, known as the “Holy Queen,” made the pilgrimage herself in the 14th century. Today, the Camino Portugues sees about 25% of all travelers embarking on the pilgrimage.
There are three main routes that travelers embarking on the Camino Portugues can choose from: the Central Route, which takes around 12 days, the Coastal Route, which takes between 12-14 days, and the Litoral Route, which follows the Coastal Route in large part while also incorporating pathways onto the beach. All routes meet in the Spanish town of Redondela before reaching Santiago de Compostela.
Each route carries its own advantages and disadvantages. The Central Route has more infrastructure and access to towns and accommodations, however it is also the busiest route, seeing 70% of all travelers on the Camino Portugues. Comparatively, only about 30% of travelers opt for the Coastal Route, making it a quieter experience with less built-in tourism.
Those starting the Camino Portugues from Porto will get to enjoy the city’s famous local port wine, the Baroque style Porto Cathedral — or Se do Porto — and the boat tours of the stunning Douro River.
Vigo is a popular starting point for those who want to experience the last 60 miles of the Camino, and the city offers a variety of activities including fish markets and a coastline overlooking the Cies Islands.
Services such as Pilgrim help travelers create a personal guide for their trip, curated towards each individual’s preferred route and transportation type — including walking, cycling and completing the Camino on horseback or with pets. Pilgrim also helps connect travelers to special services while on the road, including the options to order bike gear, rent a car and transport personal luggage.
Online guides are another helpful tool for travelers when it comes to finding rest stops and maps of nearby towns to explore along the Camino
Jessica Blatt graduated from Barnard College with a degree in English. Along with journalism, she is passionate about creative writing and storytelling that inspires readers to engage with the world around them. She hopes to share her love for travel and learning about new cultures through her work.