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Walking In Dracula’s Footsteps: Exploring Transylvania

In the heartland of Romania, the fabled region of Transylvania is an incredible blend of myth and modernity, history and natural beauty.

The Transylvanian old town of Brasov is full of historic architecture. TourScanner. CC BY-NC 2.0

Nestled within the heart of Romania lies a land steeped in mystery, folklore, and captivating beauty—Transylvania. Known worldwide as the legendary realm of Count Dracula, this mesmerizing region beckons travelers with promises of the supernatural, but in truth rewards those who wander its cobblestone streets with rich culture and natural wonders. Bordered by the Carpathian Mountains in the east, the region boasts sprawling meadows of wildflowers and ancient hardwood forests. The latter gave the area the Latin name “ultra silvam,” meaning “beyond the forest,” which changed to “trans silvam” or “on the other side of the forest” before finally settling on Transylvania. Its many historic towns feel almost frozen in time, and stand in testament to the region’s colorful past, including a stint as the Roman province of Dacia and time as an Austrian territory under the rule of the Habsburg dynasty.

Muzeul Astra offers an interactive way to learn about Transylvanian heritage and culture. Transfagarasan. CC BY-SA 2.0

Because it changed hands several times, Transylvania became home to a varied group of migratory populations over time, including Slavs who assimilated into the Romanized, Romance-speaking population and the Magyars (Hungarians) who allowed the area to develop as an autonomous unit within the larger Hungarian polity during the 10th and 11th centuries. German Saxons later arrived in the 12th century as reinforcements against Turkish and Mongol raids, and left their mark in the form of seven fortress towns — the Siebenburgen. As such, the modern population of Transylvania is a mixture of all these peoples and thus also has a unique culture with several influences from both Eastern and Western Europe. An excellent way of getting to experience the local flavor is by a visit to the Muzeul Astra in the town of Sibiu, the largest open air museum in Europe which is dedicated to showcasing Transylvanian music, art, architecture, food, and history via preservation and interactive activities.

Vlad the Impaler was imprisoned in Castle Corvin from 1463 to 1475. Garrett Ziegler. CC BY-NC-ND 2.0

A history of Transylvania would undoubtedly be incomplete without a reference to its most well known resident—the literary vampire Count Dracula. Unbeknownst to many, the fictional character of Bram Stoker’s famed novel was actually based on Vlad Dracula III, the very real governor of Transylvania from the mid to late 1400s who is better known by the name Vlad the Impaler. This nickname was earned by his tendency to dispose of anyone who crossed his path by impaling them and openly displaying the bodies to ward off further challenges. While that gory practice has remained firmly in the past, both the castle in which he lived, Poenari Castle, and in which he was imprisoned, Castle Corvin, are open to visitors to explore.

Bran Castle is the setting for Bram Stoker’s novel Dracula. Dobre Cezar.

Interestingly enough, the castle featured in Stoker’s novel is actually an entirely different one: the beautiful hilltop Bran Castle just southwest of the city of Brașov dating back to 1338 and serving as the favorite escape of the Romanian royal family throughout its many colonizations. For many years, it was a military stronghold and was occupied by soldiers and mercenaries, suffering extensive damage in 1593 due to an explosion in the powder mill within the fortress walls which took out the main tower. As such, the castle’s layout also included a number of secret passageways and rooms which allowed its residents to flee should they come under attack. One such route could be entered through a false fireplace, and was not even discovered until the 1920s, after Transylvania had finally joined Greater Romania and the castle was handed back to the royal family after a unanimous decision by the local city council.

Salina Turda invites visitors to explore its historic salt mines and underground amusement park. Gabriel Tocu. CC BY-SA 2.0

For those wanting a more modern experience, the Salina Turda or Turda Salt Mine offers travelers a chance to visit the deepest underground amusement park in the world at 400 feet (roughly 121 meters) below Earth’s surface. The mine is an incredible feat of collaboration between mankind and nature, and now contains enough salt to provision the entire world for 60 years if absolutely necessary. Spanning an impressive 27 square miles (roughly 70 square kilometers) of chasms, the attraction houses an amphitheater, bowling alley, ferris wheel, contemporary art museum, and even a luxurious spa. By renting a small boat, visitors can explore the smaller salt caves via the underground lake and admire the gigantic stalagmites that have formed over decades.

Cluj-Napoca’s Untold music festival draws massive crowds every year. VladRusuRomania. CC BY-SA 2.0

Once back above ground, it would only be fitting to visit the unofficial capital of Transylvania, Cluj-Napoca. While this city, like all of the others in the region, still gives off a historic charm with its red-tiled roofs and looming church spires, it is also home to eleven universities and thus has a thriving modern cultural scene and nightlife as well. Alongside the old city center lie plenty of social media worthy cafés and bars, as well as an assortment of cutting edge clubs and music festivals. Located just south of the Old Town center, the Alexandru Borza Cluj-Napoca University Botanical Gardens is an incredible place to spend a relaxing day before heading out at night, with over 14 hectares (0.14 square kilometers) filled with upwards of 10,000 plants from around the world. Founded in 1872 by Hungarian professor Brassai Samuel, it was later taken over by its namesake, a botanist at the local university, and has become one of the city’s most popular attractions among locals.

Transylvania's allure lies in its ability to effortlessly meld the past with the present, showcasing a blend of influences that have shaped its unique identity. In a region with such a tumultuous past, its thriving nature is an example of its people’s dedication and love for their home. From legend-inspiring castles to bustling historic town centers, every corner of the region unveils a new side to Romania’s heartland.


Tanaya Vohra

Tanaya is an undergraduate student pursuing a major in Public Health at the University of Chicago. She's lived in Asia, Europe and North America and wants to share her love of travel and exploring new cultures through her writing.