Surfing at 2024 Olympics Destroys Coral Reefs in Tahiti

January 2, 2024

Teahupo’o locals and scientists protest the building of 2024 Olympic Games infrastructure over environmental and economic concerns.

Surfing in French Polynesia. Duncan Rawlinson. CC BY-NC 2.0 DEED

In preparation for the 2024 Olympics, Paris has placed sustainability at the heart of its environmental ambitions. In keeping with the city's aim to “assume its responsibilities” for the games' environmental and social challenges, there have been many contributions to fight carbon impact, food waste and destructive construction. However, organizers have recently faced backlash for the erection of an aluminum tower in Tahiti, built specifically for the new surfing competition, that has damaged both coral and the competition's reputation.

To take the games to new heights, Paris has decided to host a new surfing competition, set to take place in Teahupo’o, Tahiti. This setting will offer the opportunity to host a unique competition and allow France to engage with its overseas territories. Teahupo’o, described as a paradise and dream spot by surfers and travelers alike, is anticipated to bring fans and athletes together. This influx of people to the island has called for the construction of a new venue; a 14 ton aluminum tower with concrete foundations, set to host 40 people judging and televising the competition.

Coral Reefs in Tahiti. Jeremy H. CC BY-NC-ND 2.0 DEED

On 1 December, a barge intended to help build the tower got caught on a reef and damaged local coral. Save Teahupo’o Reef, a group made up of locals, surfers and NGOs, posted a video showing the broken coral and damaged boat propeller on their Instagram. After this initial damage, work was stopped to find a small barge and better route for it so as to not damage any more coral.

Plans to build the tower have been met with more resistance from locals in the form of social media campaigns or protests. Residents have fought against the construction, claiming that building it risks impacting the marine ecosystem and damaging the coral reef. Scientists based in Hawaii have advocated with locals and defended their call to stop building the tower, citing its environmental impact. Using 3D photogrammetry techniques, the researchers created maps of the reef habitat where the tower is set to be built and of the lagoon that its materials will be transported through. Their findings indicate that Teahupo’o would face devastating effects. Of the 3,500 square feet that this development would impact, there are over 1,000 corals from 20 different species. The cost of this dredging and building is estimated at $1.3 million. One of the scientists, Dr. Burns, offered no recommendation for construction that would minimize reef damage as there will be substantial damage regardless of alterations to the process. He suggested alternative solutions to broadcasting the games that included a judge in a boat, using drones or playing a live video feed, all of which are more cost-effective, environmentally friendly and presumably better aligned with the ambitions of the organizers.

Efforts to protest the tower have primarily come from groups like Association Vai Ara o Teahupo’o, who have created an online petition that has garnered over 223,000 signatures. The group is composed primarily of locals who rely on the marine environment for their livelihood and feel it is an important part of their heritage that they would like to preserve.

Coral Reefs in French Polynesia. Adam Reeder. CC BY-NC 2.0 DEED

Following the barge incident, the Olympic Committee made the decision to reduce the size of the tower by 25%. To decrease the weight placed on the foundations, the weight has been reduced from 14 tons to nine and will instead be installed at the same site as the old wooden tower. The original design required 72 four meter tall rods that would be drilled into the reef, but as a result of the now smaller design, rod length will be shortened so as to not be driven down as far. The tower is also being built in an area with fewer corals, and existing ones will be removed and taken care of to ensure regrowth.

Despite growing concern over the risk posed to marine life, there will be some benefits of the event after the games conclude. These include new infrastructure such as a pedestrian bridge, fiber internet cables and the money brought into the local economy by those renting places to stay for the games.

Paris has certainly given more thought to sustainability efforts relative to other Olympic hosts, and has certainly made concerted efforts to reduce the games' environmental impact. However, it is important to recognize the destruction that the tower has caused and the long-lasting effects that it will have even after the games end. If Paris does intend to follow through on its sustainability goals, it must ensure that the Teohupo’o reef is left undamaged not just for the short duration of the games, but even after they end. In doing this, Paris and the organizers of the games would prove themselves dedicated to both sustainability and the island's people, bringing about a new era of true environmental conservation.

Mira is a student at Brown University studying international and public affairs. Passionate about travel and language learning, she is eager to visit each continent to better understand the world and the people across it. In her free time she perfects her French, hoping to someday live in France working as a freelance journalist or in international affairs.

Beyond Bora Bora: 7 Lesser-Known Islands in French Polynesia

February 1, 2021

Although French Polynesia conjures up images of honeymooners and overwater bungalows, the region’s less-visited islands abound in natural beauty and warm hospitality.

Stunning views in French Polynesia. Dany13. CC2.0

French Polynesia is a South Pacific collectivity under French jurisdiction made up of five island groups: the Society, Tuamotu, Marquesas, Austral and Gambier islands. The region’s history goes back as early as 500 B.C., when Polynesians traveling east from Tonga and Samoa reached the islands. Once explorers arrived in the 16th century, European fascination with the South Pacific began to grow. As a result, the islands became a French colony in 1880. French Polynesia developed quickly in the 1960s and eventually gained more political autonomy, becoming an autonomous overseas country of France in 2004.

Polynesian culture and traditions are an essential part of life on the islands. Locals appreciate their heritage and proudly showcase their vibrant culture to visitors. Examples of exemplary Polynesian craftsmanship include wood carving, weaving and tattooing, a practice deeply rooted in Polynesian mythology. Mesmerizing songs and dance embody the Polynesian spirit and allow islanders to pass down their culture and history from generation to generation.

The islands of Tahiti, Moorea and Bora Bora are the most sought-after destinations in French Polynesia due to their world-renowned resorts with overwater bungalows. However, there is much more to the islands than simply a luxury vacation. Visiting these seven French Polynesian islands will allow travelers to gain an insight into Polynesian life and the islands’ rich culture.

Raiatea

Known as the “sacred island,” Raiatea is the birthplace of Polynesian culture. Polynesians first gathered at the marae of Taputapuatea, as the sacred site was the political and religious center of Polynesia in ancient times. From Taputapuatea, Polynesians set off in outrigger canoes traveling west to New Zealand and north to Hawaii. Taputapuatea is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and can be visited with the accompaniment of a guide. Communities from Hawaii, New Zealand and the Cook Islands travel here as part of a pilgrimage to connect with their rich cultural heritage.

Raiatea is also the only place in the world where the tiare apetahi grows. A beautiful white flower with five petals, it has become a symbol of the island itself. Faaroa River on Raiatea is French Polynesia’s only navigable river and was said to be the starting point for outrigger canoes heading across the ocean. Raiatea is also one of the top yachting destinations in French Polynesia with a vast lagoon and excellent sailing conditions.

Tahaa

Accessible by ferry from neighboring Raiatea, Tahaa is one of the most beautiful of French Polynesia’s islands. The island has a rugged and untouched feel, dotted with lush tropical greenery and tiny villages. Known as the “vanilla island,'' Tahaa produces more than 70% of French Polynesian vanilla. Travelers can check out La Vallee de la Vanille, which is the only organic vanilla production on the island. Tahaa’s lagoons have many small islets (known as motus) which provide numerous opportunities for snorkeling in vibrant coral gardens. Tahaa also provides stunning views of neighboring Bora Bora, especially at sunset.

Huahine

Huahine is one of French Polynesia’s least-visited islands, often referred to as “the secret island.” Containing Huahine Nui (Big Huahine), Huahine Iti (Little Huahine) and eight villages, Huahine provides a break from the stresses of the modern world. As the island receives few tourists, visitors can expect to be welcomed to Huahine with great hospitality. The island is known for its lush greenery and landscape dotted with fruit and vanilla plantations. Huahine abounds in cultural sites, containing the largest number of marae temples in all of Polynesia. Huahine is also home to blue-eyed eels, sacred fish ranging from 4 to 6 feet long that live in a stream near the village of Faie.

Fakarava

Located in the Tuamotu archipelago, the largest group of atolls in the world, Fakarava is known throughout French Polynesia for its stunning natural beauty. Meaning “beautiful” or “making things superb” in Tahitian, Fakarava is a designated UNESCO Biosphere Reserve for its abundant marine life. There are many conservation efforts underway here, including educational outreach programs and monitoring of the island’s flora and fauna. The French artist Henri Mattise visited Fakarava in 1930 and was said to be blown away by the countless shades of blue in the lagoon, inspiring many of his later creations.

Rangiroa

Also located in the Tuamotu archipelago, Rangiroa is the second-largest atoll in the world. Containing over 240 islets surrounding an enormous lagoon, there is no shortage of places to visit. The Rangiroa atoll is also one of the best places in the world for scuba diving. The waters near the villages of Tiputa and Avatoru provide excellent opportunities to see sharks, dolphins, manta rays and more. Other noteworthy sights in Rangiroa include Le Sable Roses, a pink sand beach located on the atoll’s southern rim, and Blue Lagoon, a spot that’s often referred to as a natural aquarium for its abundance of fish.

Manihi

With less than 1,000 residents, the island of Manihi provides an opportunity for travelers to experience slow-paced island life. The first black pearl farm in French Polynesia began in Manihi in 1965, a practice that has since become widespread across the islands. Today, pearl farming remains a crucial part of Manihi’s economy and culture. Travelers can visit these farms to learn about this fascinating process while supporting local businesses.

Rurutu

Rurutu is in French Polynesia's Austral Islands about 370 miles south of Tahiti. The island has stunning mountains and fertile landscapes dotted with fruit and coffee plantations. Humpback whales are Rurutu’s main attraction and can be found from August to October. Moerai, the largest village and home to most of Rurutu’s 2,400 people, provides a great insight into the island’s unique culture. Skilled female artisans known as mamas are renowned for their exquisite handwoven goods, including hats, mats and patchwork blankets called “tifaifai.” Moerai was also home to the famous Tiki statue of Aa, although only a replica remains on the island. The original statue is in the British Museum in London.

In this time of global uncertainty, small island nations that depend heavily on tourism feel the impacts of the pandemic the hardest. By appreciating the unique customs and cultures of small island communities such as those in French Polynesia, their way of life can be preserved for generations to come.

Forgiveness is Freedom

July 23, 2015

Early last May around 2pm, Swell sat at anchor over my favorite sand bank in Tahiti after arriving the following evening from a year-long, 2,600 mile loop through the outer islands of French Polynesia. I was tucked in at my little desk in Swell’s cabin talking to my father on the phone…

“I’m so proud of you Lizzie! Congratulations! Navigation through those waters is no small feat!” He said.

“Thanks, Dad. What a year it was!”

Suddenly I heard yelling outside, and lifted my head to the window. A massive catamaran was barrelling straight down on Swell!?!

CRAAAAAAAAAAAAAAASHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

“Aaaaaaaaaaaaaaahhhhhhhhhhhh!!! Dad, I’ll call you back!!” I yelled. “Someone just hit me!”

The 50 ft charter yacht had properly t-boned Swell, ramming its port hull into her starboard side, just above the waterline slightly aft of the chainplates. It bent some stanchions and broke lifelines and kinked my forward lower cable, too. Where the hull had flexed inward, the interior wood near the bookshelf and drawers crushed and splintered.

Shocked, speechless, adrenaline coursing, I could hardly do more than stare at the middle-aged American dude waving frantically on the bow…Raiarii, on the contrary, was foaming at the mouth, livid, cursing, and ready to leap over and tackle him. The guy backed his yacht away, anchored behind us, and then came over in his dinghy with his wife and another crew shortly after.

In the minutes before his arrival, I talked myself into being calm and kind. Surely, I’d done something as equally ridiculous as to crash into an anchored vessel in the middle of a huge open bay in broad daylight…??? Maybe not…but we all make mistakes…I pleaded with Raiarii to let me do the talking since they spoke English anyway (in retrospect I wish I’d let him handle it the Tahitian way!)

When they arrived I greeted them with a smile, and the captain, Mr. Glenn Dimmit nervously climbed aboard and ran around Swell assessing the damage. He seemed apologetic at first…

“This is completely my fault.” He said. “I went below to do something and the boat was drifting faster than I realized and…”

“It’s ok,” I said. “What’s done is done. Just take care of the damage and lets not let it ruin your vacation.” He claimed he knew lots about boats and that the damage was minimal. But the bulbous hull of the catamaran had hit initially, then pushed Swell over on her port side, where the boat struck her a second time slightly below the waterline when Swell tilted back to starboard. The boat would have to be hauled and the rig would have to be checked to truly assess all the damage…

“Let’s make a list of the damage,” Glenn said.

It seemed like a good idea to me.

His non-engaging wife walked around Swell like it was contaminated with toxic waste, adjusting her hairdo after each photo she took of the damage.

“Honey, did you get this?” She’d say, ignoring me altogether.

He wrote out the list on a few clean pages of my notebook and then curiously numbered each page in the bottom corner…”1 of 3, 2 of 3, 3 of 3”. He then signed his name at the bottom.

“Just sign right here,” he said, “to verify that this is the only damage there is.”

“Wait?” I thought. “Something isn’t right here…? This stranger just carelessly rammed into my home, my life, my way of transportation…and he wants me to sign something? We can’t possibly know what all the damage is yet. What do you think I wanted you to ram into me??”

I recoiled and looked at him suspiciously…

“You know,” he smirked, “just in case this turns into a pissing match…”

At that, my Zen bubble was painfully popped. The magic of a year’s worth of wild open ocean, remote island beauty, and generous Polynesians had been t-boned by a conniving kook from Anaheim. He didn’t give a spit about Swell or I, he was only out to cover his own ass, knowing that his recklessness could be expensive.

“Hmmm…” I played dumb at first. “I really don’t think its necessary for me to sign anything. We can’t possibly know what all the damage is until it has been properly assessed.”

He shoved the paper at me again nervously. My good humor was melting away quickly. I’d been so nice?! He’d made such a hideously blatant error?! I’d kept my Tahitian boyfriend from crushing him into rubble!? And there he was trying to trick me into signing a some sneaky document to protect his ASSets!!?

Maybe I’d been at sea too long–adrift in my fantasy world of positivity and love…but this guy was really a douche!! He and his posse slinked away shortly after my final refusal to sign his paper. He never passed again to see how we were doing in the two days he remained anchored behind Swell. In fact, he’d motor his dinghy wide on his way to shore in order to avoid us…

I called the charter company to report the accident, which kicked off a saga of poor handling by the company’s manager. Despite the deep pockets of the international company, Dream Yacht Charter refused to pay for a true assessment of the damage by a surveyor. And in the end, Swell was repaired as minimally and heartlessly as possible.

Friends and strangers alike urged me to fight back. I could sue Mr Dimmit in California for my losses due to his recklessness. I could file an international lawsuit against the charter company manager, Jerome, who I watched sneakily wipe off the paint from collision point of the accident above the Swell’s waterline, and then tell the yard worker not to grind that area down (because he didn’t want to have to pay to redo the paint!?). When I ground the patch down myself, there was a large area of damaged fiberglass that would not have been repaired had I not happened to see him slyly arrive on his scooter with acetone and a rag in hand.

The whole ordeal was time-consuming, energy draining, and downright disheartening. I wrote some letters of appeal for support to Glenn and those higher up at Dream Yacht Charter. Glenn never responded at all, and the company only turned accusations and faults on me. I spent too much time feeling angry, hurt, confused as what was the best thing to do…I had always tried to do right by others…how could they care so little??

I despised Glenn and Jerome through the summer, until I realized that my negative energy for them was really only hurting me. I was taking it personally, when really, their heartless way of living was their own problem. If I felt anger toward them, I was even more of the loser.

So little by little, I talked myself into letting the whole thing go…My kicking and screaming to bring them to justice was not worth the amount of money and time that I would lose fixing Swell properly on my own. Lawsuits were plain unthinkable—the mere thought of courtrooms and paperwork gave me the jitters.

One morning, while vacationing with my family in Catalina, I made the decision to put the whole thing behind me. I must have had a karmic debt to pay, and both Glenn and Jerome would have theirs too. Nothing is wasted or lost in this universe…And a minute more spent thinking about the situation, was a minute less spent with my beloved family.

Standing under a cool blue sky on my parents boat in Catalina, I lifted it up to greater forces and handed it over…ahhhhh it felt so good!!

Prior to that moment, I feared that ‘letting go’ would hurt my pride, or render me weak, but instead, the forgiveness induced an immediate wave of freedom and serenity that washed completely over me… Suddenly, ‘pride’ and ‘losing’ seemed so pitifully insignificant! I couldn’t wait to get back to playing with my family.

Back to what matters…love, family, and the pursuit of a better world.

I took my next breath feeling renewed, empowered, and ready to get back to much more important things like inspiring people to live out their dreams, promoting sustainability, and sharing Light and Love with a world in need! We must find a way to keep peace in our own hearts…for if not, how can we strive for peace amongst humanity?

LIZ CLARK

@swellvoyage

Liz left California aboard her 40-ft sailboat, Swell, in 2006 and has sailed over 18,000 nautical miles in the Pacific exploring for remote waves to surf, learning new cultures, seeking truth, living simply from the sea, and writing about it on her blog:www.swellvoyage.com. As an eco and spiritual activist, she hopes to inspire people to live their passions and reconnect with nature and our inherent Oneness.