Big Brother is Watching: China’s Social Credit System

The nuanced nature of China’s social credit system has sparked global debate.

People walking through crowded streets in Shanghai. Rawpixel. CC0 1.0

Amid social and political turmoil, many are fascinated by order, hierarchy and control. One of China’s long-term goals is technological self-reliance, reflected in the country’s controversial social credit system. Millions of citizens are defined by and reduced to a numeric value, which is generated as their daily interactions and purchases are closely monitored. The system was predominantly economic—similar to a FICO score—until 2004, when President Jian Zemin expanded the system by adding a social aspect. The current social credit system was formally introduced in 2014, and by 2022, 80% of China’s cities, counties and regions had instituted some version of it.

The social credit system varies geographically. Some citizens receive a numeric score between zero and 1,000, while others are marked by a letter score from A to Z. The system is divided into four categories: business, social, government, and judicial. It operates punitively, rewarding citizens for good behavior and punishing them for bad behavior. A drop in one's score can come from traffic violations, littering and gossiping, while good deeds like donating to charity and assisting the elderly can increase it. The more points accrued, the more preferential treatment one receives, including discounts and travel perks. However, if a citizen's score is too low, they can be prevented from traveling or landing work. In 2019, millions of Chinese citizens were banned from buying plane tickets due to low social credit scores. China’s social credit system has been compared to the Black Mirror episode "Nosedive," which depicts dystopian society in which one’s worth is defined in relation to their portrayal on social media.

Surveillance equipment. Rawpixel. CC0 1.0

The government claims that the social credit system was instituted to “build trust” amongst citizens. However, the lack of privacy and blacklist perpetuated by the system has sparked global concern. Even by criticizing the government, your social credit score is lowered, and in some cities, the government pays citizens to report good or bad behavior. Recent studies suggest that the portrayal of China’s social credit system in the media is exaggerated. According to the MIT Technology Review, the system primarily functions as a comprehensive record of data, documenting companies’ financial histories. It is therefore less important as a single score than as a record.

The social credit system is only one aspect of government surveillance in China. The country’s firewall limits internet searches, and there are at least 200 million surveillance cameras installed that can use facial recognition software. China’s government operates without rule of law, leading to the abuse of power. Surveillance capitalism ultimately poses a threat to individual autonomy and democratic governance. The question remains as to how far it will spread in the coming years.

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Agnes Volland

Agnes is a student at UC Berkeley majoring in Interdisciplinary Studies and minoring in Creative Writing, with a research focus on road trip culture in America. She currently writes for BARE Magazine and Caravan Travel & Style Magazine. She is working on a novel that follows two sisters as they road trip down Highway 40, from California to Oklahoma. In the future, she hopes to pursue a career in journalism, publishing, or research.

A Two-Way Street: The Impact of Airbnb on Local Communities

Amid the picturesque landscapes and quaint charm of small towns, a quiet battle emerges over the impact of vacation rentals on local communities.

Airbnb logo on phone screen. Ivan Radic. CC BY 2.0

Towns in California have found themselves at a crossroads between economic success and community preservation. While Airbnb offers a supplemental income for homeowners and increased accessibility to nature, its effect on local communities is often overlooked. Since its establishment in 2007, Airbnb has arguably become a leading driver of gentrification, displacement, and rising housing costs. Vacation rental companies like Airbnb often attract upscale, hipster businesses, which in turn drive up property values. When homes are converted to Airbnb rentals, long-term rental housing stock in a given area is reduced, and cheap long-term rentals are limited for low-income families. Small towns in close proximity to national parks or ski resorts have become more expensive in the past year. According to Redfin, Big Bear Lake home prices are up 12.7% compared to last year, selling for a median price of $637K. Similarly, Lake Arrowhead home prices are up 12.6% compared to last year, with a median home price of $725K.

Route 198 in Three Rivers. Patrick Pelster. CC BY-SA 3.0

Three Rivers, CA, a town at the base of Sequoia National Park, has experienced significant gentrification and rising housing costs in the past year. Three Rivers home prices are up 54.6% compared to last year, up to a median price of $920K. As an Airbnb host, you can potentially make three to four times the amount of money you make renting your apartment long-term. With a population of 2,496, there are over 900 Airbnb rentals in the Three Rivers area. “I think the unregulated development of the Airbnb market has destabilized the community. It’s nearly impossible to find affordable housing, as long-term rentals are increasingly rare. This has a direct effect on lower-income individuals, like service workers or seasonal staff,” says Juanita, an employee at Sequoia National Park. “The vacationers are dispersed throughout the community as opposed to consolidated.” 

Most locals view vacation rental companies as a two-way street. An increase in tourism has a positive impact on local businesses, most of which suffered during the pandemic. “Three Rivers has been a home to me for forty-seven years. The past couple years have been the best for my real estate career, but there’s a difference between financial and emotional success. My early real estate career was all families, but now it’s influenced by Airbnb,” says Ete, a real estate agent based in Three Rivers. “We still have a community here of sorts, but there are more and more out-of-towners by the day.” Airbnb has further impacted the school district in Three Rivers, as fewer families can afford to live there. In 1994, 300 kids were enrolled in Three Rivers Elementary, and now, there are a little more than 100. 

At recent town meetings, locals have discussed ways to regulate Airbnb. Because Three Rivers is an unincorporated community, Airbnb taxes and revenue don’t go back into the town, they go into Tulare County. Locals have discussed incorporating, but it’s expensive to do so, and like many small towns in California, the town is politically divided, making matters hard to agree on. “There’s a sense of entitlement that comes with Airbnbers. When you’re not a resident and not invested in a community, you won’t treat it like it’s your own,” says Emily, who has owned property in Three Rivers for nearly twenty years, “people assume that they can treat a property however they want because they’ve paid so much to be there. Tourists don’t care about trash, noise, and respecting flora and fauna the way locals do.”

AutoCamp, another vacation rental company, brands itself as offering “luxury airstreams and outdoor glamping,” catering primarily to the upper class, with average Airstream prices of about $500 a night. With glamping getaways in iconic destinations like Yosemite and Zion national parks, Autocamp is planning to open its next airstream hotel in Three Rivers. While locals are still concerned with the effect Autocamp Sequoia will have on housing costs and gentrification, the tourists will be centralized as opposed to dispersed throughout the community. An onsite property manager will further limit light, noise, and sound pollution.

Shipping container Airbnb in Central Valley. Nicolas Boullosa. CC BY 2.0

While vacation rental companies fuel tourism revenue into local businesses, they play a significant role in rising housing costs and cultural disruption. Action on a legislative level has been taken to restrict short-term rentals in California. Senate bill 584 uses short-term rental taxes to fund affordable housing, with a tax rate set at 15% the rental price. However, the bill won’t take effect until 2025, and Airbnb hosts are working to fight it. The future of Airbnb and its effect on local communities is uncertain. We’re forced to consider where people will live with long-term rentals dwindling, and how national parks will regulate tourism in the coming years.

Ways to Get Involved:

Unfairbnb is an organization that aims to ban Airbnb in cities throughout California. If interested in reading more about the issues associated with Airbnb, click here.

If possible, avoid using Airbnbs when traveling. Consider a hostel, bed and breakfast or hotel instead.

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Agnes Moser Volland

Agnes is a student at UC Berkeley majoring in Interdisciplinary Studies and minoring in Creative Writing, with a research focus on road trip culture in America. She currently writes for BARE Magazine and Caravan Travel & Style Magazine. She is working on a novel that follows two sisters as they road trip down Highway 40, from California to Oklahoma. In the future, she hopes to pursue a career in journalism, publishing, or research.

Beyond Bars: The Controversial Practice of Prison Tourism

Around the world, former prisons have been repurposed into museums and attractions. Is it time to rethink these museums of incarceration?

Former Charles Street Jail and Charles/MGH Station. Tim Sackton. CC BY SA 2.0. 

The Liberty Hotel in Beacon Hill, a historic and affluent Boston neighborhood, does not try to hide its history as a former jail. With expensive cocktail bars—cheekily named Clink and Alibi—featuring preserved former holding cells, and a private courtyard in the former jail exercise yard, the luxury hotel features an array of so-called “playful nods” to its past life as The Charles Street Jail. 

“With rooms this luxurious,” jests the hotel’s website, “We can’t guarantee that you’ll ever want to leave.” Less advertised are the conditions former inmates, including Malcolm X, faced in the jail, which was deemed unconstitutional in 1973. 

Charles Street Jail Complex. Library of Congress. CC0.

The Liberty Hotel, which opened in 2007 following a $150 million renovation, is not a new—or even particularly unique—case. According to a 2022 Sentencing Project report, in the United States alone, 21 states have partially or fully closed at least one correctional facility since 2000, in no small part due to the work of activists opposing mass incarceration. This begs the question of what to do with these facilities—and how to contend with their histories. 

Toeing the line between memorialization and commercialization, one controversial answer lies in prison museums, which have become increasingly common destinations worldwide. 

Lobby at the Liberty Hotel in Boston. Sharon Mollerus. CC BY 2.0. 

Prison Tourism: A Brief Overview 

An emerging prison tourism industry, which includes museums, attractions and experiences at former correctional institutions, sits at the crossroads of the informative, the entertaining and the bizarre. Perhaps the most famous example is the former Alcatraz Federal Penitentiary in California, which attracts 1.5 million visitors annually, according to the U.S. National Park Service. 

Prison tourism has its roots in penal spectatorship, such as public executions dating back to ancient Rome. And many early modern penitentiaries, including Melbourne Gaol in Australia and Eastern State Penitentiary in Pennsylvania, loomed conspicuously in city centers, visible to all.

Today, scholars characterize prison tourism as a type of “dark tourism”—the practice of visiting former sites of death and disaster. What drives travelers to these sites may be a combination of motivations: to learn, to mourn, or even to indulge a morbid curiosity. While the exact impetus of individual travelers is not always clear, in part due to lack of research and transparency in the industry, clues can be found in the ways prison museums market themselves. 

Criminologist Michael Welch notes in his book "Escape to Prison: Penal Tourism and the Pull of Punishment" that prison museums are both educational and commercial institutions, evident in how they pique travelers’ interest and encourage consumption. 

On its website, the Clink Prison Museum in London advertises the prison’s “scandalous” history, luring visitors to “hands-on educational experiences” where they can “handle torture devices,” have their photo taken in a torture chair, or even book a “ghost hunt” tour. The Clink is not alone in its jarring blend of education and camp. Prison museum gift shops often feature both educational materials and what Welch describes as “local kitsch.”

Placard featuring The Clink Museum, London. Pikakoko. CC BY-NC-ND 2.0

In Sangareddy, India, the Heritage Jail Museum offers a “Feel the Jail” program, where visitors can pay $5.99 (500 Indian rupees) to spend 24 hours in the former Sangareddy District Center Jail. During their stay, visitors are given prison uniforms and required to do labor such as gardening. The museum doesn’t disclose where money raised through this program goes. In New Delhi, the Tihar Jail is open to visitors every weekday. In 2019, jail authorities told Mail Today that they hoped to establish a similar overnight program at Tihar (though it is unclear if the program was ever instated). One crucial difference: Tihar is currently operating. In fact, with nine central prisons and a population estimated at 14,000, Tihar is one of the largest prison complexes in the world. 

Other travel destinations are located on former penal sites, unknownst to most visitors. Koh Tao and Koh Taruto islands in Thailand are known for their idyllic beaches, aquatic wildlife, and off-the-beaten-path feel (the TV show Survivor was filmed on Koh Tarutao in 2002). Yet in the 1940s, both islands were used to detain political prisoners. By one account, 104 prisoners were held in Koh Tao; conditions were incredibly grim, with pervasive malaria and shark-infested waters. 

Koh Tarutao Island. Vyacheslav Argenberg. CC BY 4.0

While former correctional institutions handle their histories differently, and while motivations of prison tourists vary, one thing is clear: prison tourism is a widespread phenomenon. Over 100 prison museums in 29 countries can easily be found online. Though the overall impact of the prison tourism industry is unknown—there is no comprehensive data on the industry’s size or revenue—it is clear that demand exists for experiences in former correctional sites and that companies and governments are ready to supply it. 

Visitors enter Robben Island. National Archives at College Park - Still Pictures. CC0. 

Emerging critiques call the prison tourism industry exploitative and voyeuristic. Critical Resistance, a U.S. group opposing mass incarceration, wrote in 2000 that “marketing of prison imagery, in the form of tourist visits of facilities … helps to promote acceptance of prison expansion.” Others similarly argue that some prison museum attractions minimize the experiences of formerly incarcerated individuals and obscure the current realities of incarceration.

In response, some prisons are rethinking how they market their histories. The Eastern State Penitentiary Museum, for example, recently discontinued its Halloween event “Terror Behind the Walls.” In 2016, it installed an exhibit, “Prisons Today,” which addresses racial disparities in criminal justice. Other prison museums, including Constitutional Hill in Johannesburg, Robben Island in Cape Town and Kilmainham Gaol in Dublin, emphasize the often political nature of punishment and the use of prisons to maintain colonial rule. 

In New York City, a new prison museum is in process at Sing Sing, which still houses 1,700 incarcerated people, raising important questions. Is it possible to respectfully navigate these histories while they are ongoing? What does it mean to travel to a prison and, unlike those held there, be free to leave?

Tom Moses, formerly imprisoned at Robben Island, leads a tour on the Island. Martinvl. CC-BY-SA-4.0

Prison Repurposing & Museum Alternatives

Growing movements to reduce incarceration have spurred the closure of more prisons, creating opportunities for prison repurposing. In place of campy and commercial prison attractions, here are some alternatives for travelers hoping to learn about prison histories—and for those hoping to reimagine how former prisons can be repurposed. 

For travelers: Do some research on the present state of incarceration in a particular region before attending a prison museum. Is the prison still operating? What has and hasn’t changed since inmates were held there? 

Determine who operates the museum and how it is curated. Museums can be informed by political or economic goals. Reflect on how the museum positions you as a visitor; are you invited to empathize with those formerly incarcerated, or is the exhibit more voyeuristic in nature? 

If the museum charges fees or sells merchandise, ask where proceeds go. Advocate for increased transparency in the prison tourism industry (similar advocacy has emerged around orphanage tourism, and findings have revealed financial practices that exploit affected communities). 

Consider getting involved in work to improve prison conditions for currently incarcerated individuals, reduce incarceration and support public safety through nonpunitive alternatives. Opportunities include supporting community bail funds and reentry programs, advocating against solitary confinement and other harmful practices, and investing in community health. 

For those interested in preserving the histories of former prisons: Evaluate how prison museums are marketed, and ensure they do not trivialize formerly incarcerated individuals’ experiences or create a spectacle. When possible, design museums in conjunction with formerly incarcerated individuals and their communities. Make funding and proceeds transparent, and consider diverting proceeds to affected communities. 

Follow examples like the “Prisons Today” exhibit at Eastern State Penitentiary and find ways to highlight the current impact of incarceration. Prison museums, as dynamic, living spaces, can offer visitors opportunities to imagine alternatives to mass incarceration.

And consider other ways for prisons to be repurposed that might be more beneficial to communities affected by incarceration. A recent Appeal article asks, “Can Closed Prisons Be Repurposed to Mend the Harm They’ve Done?” The article explores some alternative prison reuse projects, including a former correctional facility in Florida that was converted into a center providing food, housing and support to unhoused individuals. 

Eastern State Penitentiary. Thomas Hawk. CC BY-NC 2.0. 

A 2022 Sentencing Project report advocates a “community reinvestment approach” to prison repurposing. It offers recommendations for repurposing projects, including prioritizing prison reuse planning, strengthening communities through projects like community centers and healthcare facilities, and increasing data transparency around prison reuse. 

The prison tourism industry raises complex questions around how to contend with the painful histories of incarceration, and whether former correctional facilities can (or should) eclipse these histories by taking on new lives and forms. These are difficult questions for travelers. But, at the very least, we can stop perpetuating the harms these sites cause with voyeuristic exploitation. At best, perhaps we can find ways to support affected communities while mobilizing people to think differently about the ongoing harms of incarceration.

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Rose Evans

Rose is an independent journalist with a degree in Gender Studies and Creative Writing from Middlebury College. She is passionate about storytelling, women’s and LGBTQ+ issues, criminal (in)justice, and finding creative solutions to collective questions. She also loves sharing good food with loved ones, exploring her home state, and playing soccer in the snow. 

Waste Not, Want Not: 6 Unique Companies Revolutionizing Food Waste

With nearly a third of the world's food going to waste, here are some small companies working to make food waste edible.

Food waste. EarthFix. CC BY-NC 2.0

Every year 1.3 billion tons of food is wasted, costing over $1 trillion around the world. Even though food waste breaks down faster than other types of waste such as plastics, the decomposition produces a significant amount of carbon dioxide, which exacerbates climate change. There are ongoing efforts to confront this issue, such as the Biden-Harris Administration’s National Strategy for Reducing Food Loss and Waste and Recycling Organics announced on June 12, 2024. Many small companies and organizations are working to address this issue as well. Here are six businesses that have found innovative ways to transform food waste.

1. Back to the Roots’ Mushroom Growing Kits

Mushroom grow kits. Suzie's Farm. CC BY-NC-ND 2.0

Every year about six million tons of coffee grounds end up in landfills around the world. Back to the Roots is a company that sells mushroom growing kits that use recycled coffee grounds. Back to the Roots aims to make food growing accessible while keeping used coffee grounds out of the landfill.

After connecting with each other during college through a shared interest in growing mushrooms from recycled coffee grounds, Back to the Roots’ co-founders Alejandro Velez and Nikhil Arora began growing mushrooms in Velez’s fraternity. 

Back to the Roots has found many ways to give back to communities. Through their #GrowOneGiveOne campaign, customers can post a picture with their growing kits and Back to the Roots will send a growing kit and curriculum to an elementary school classroom. People can also access free kids gardening curriculums and gardening resources, including a garden glossary, grow calendar and grow guide. You can explore Back to the Roots’ mushroom growing kits and resources here.

2. Cascara Foods’ Supplements

Health supplements. Jdurchen. CC BY-NC-ND 2.0

Cascara Foods is a Chilean company that transforms food waste into health supplements. Nutrients from fruit pulp and peels are used in supplements for digestion, joints and more. Cascara was started in 2017 in order to combat climate change, and the company strives to upcycle as much fruit waste as possible. 

Currently, recycled apple, blueberry and strawberry fibers can be found in Cascara's supplements. The apple fiber is leftover from local producers in the apple juice industry and contains more than 90% of the total fiber of the whole fruit. Blueberry fiber salvaged from the juicing industry and strawberry fiber sourced from the puree industry are both sources of antioxidants and can also serve as natural food colorings. Check out Cascara Foods’ supplements here.

3. EatKinda’s Cauliflower Ice Cream

Cosmetically imperfect cauliflower. Pictoscribe -. CC BY-NC-ND 2.0

EatKinda is a New Zealand-based company that sells ice cream made from cosmetically imperfect cauliflower. As with many other countries, New Zealand’s supermarket standards often reject produce based on aesthetic issues such as size or color, creating unnecessary food waste. EatKinda collects cauliflower from local farmers and supermarkets that would otherwise end up in the landfill and transforms it into a delectable treat.

EatKinda’s co-founder Jenni Matheson stumbled across her cauliflower ice cream recipe after a failed attempt at making a vegan cheesecake. Then, when Matheson met food technologist Mrinali Kumar, they got to work and EatKinda was born.

EatKinda currently offers three vegan flavors, including Strawberry Swirl, Double Chocolate and Mint Choc Bikkie, and its products can be found in 90 stores throughout New Zealand. The cauliflower ice cream has recently gone viral on TikTok, and EatKinda is in the process of seeking investors to expand into Australia and beyond. Here is where you can learn more about EatKinda.

4. Imperfect Food’s Grocery Delivery Service

Delivered produce. Aine. CC BY-SA 2.0

Imperfect Foods is an American company that combines sustainability with convenience. By delivering retailer-rejected food products to customers’ doors in 100% recycled boxes, Imperfect Foods has saved over 160 million lbs of food waste from the landfills. All of these food items had been rejected for various reasons including aesthetic issues, surpluses or being near their best-buy dates.

Sustainability is kept in mind through every step of the grocery delivery process. By delivering all the groceries for each neighborhood in one trip and using 100% recycled boxes collected from previous orders, Imperfect reduces waste and carbon emissions. By signing up online, customers can limit food waste and get everything from farm-fresh produce to pantry staples delivered to their door. You can discover more about Imperfect Foods here.

5. Sweet Benin’s Cashew Apple Juice

Cashew fruit. Richard Vignola. CC BY-NC-ND 2.0

The cashew industry is prominent in Benin, but every year ten million tons of cashew apples are left to rot in fields across Africa. Sweet Benin limits food waste and supports local communities by working with producers to transform these leftover cashew apples into juice. 

The cashew apple is the fruit attached to the cashew nut. Despite the many uses for cashew apples, many consider the fruit trash because of a misconception that it is poisonous. Sweet Benin started countering this misconception after partnering with the non-profit TechnoServe in 2017. Since then, the company has strived to support economic growth while prioritizing women in the hiring process. TechnoServe offers further information here.

6. Toast Brewing’s Beer

Surplus bread. Melinda Young Stuart. CC BY-NC-ND 2.0

With about 44% of bread going to waste, Toast Brewing has set out to transform this surplus into beer. The over three million slices of bread saved by Toast Brewing since 2016 could be stacked nearly as high as five Mount Everests. So much bread can be saved because Toasted uses it to replace 25% of the malted barley it uses to brew beer.

Toast Brewing supports sustainability through charity as well. 100% of the profits go to environmental charities. The company has also partnered with the social enterprise Change Please and created a cafe taproom that helps fight houselessness and food waste. You can discover more and order Toast Brewing products online here.

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Madison Paulus

Madison is a student at George Washington University studying international affairs, journalism, mass communication, and Arabic. Born and raised in Seattle, Washington, Madison grew up in a creative, open-minded environment. With passions for human rights and social justice, Madison uses her writing skills to educate and advocate. In the future, Madison hopes to pursue a career in science communication or travel journalism.

Egypt’s Time Capsule: The Fayoum Oasis

A desert adventure that revealed millions of years of history and culture in just one day.

Keriann Slayton

Before the pyramids there were whales, and beyond Cairo there are waterfalls. Once a bounty of prehistoric life, the Fayoum Oasis in Wadi El-Rayan remains rich in resources, culture and history. Cascading water appears as if from nowhere, and dunes and ancient rock rise up to frame the entrance to Wadi El-Hitan, “Whale Valley,” where fossils litter the paths revealing the evolutionary development of massive marine creatures. Describing the region feels like creating an imaginary world for a fantasy novel, yet during my trip there in January 2023, I discovered it to be supremely real and of unique significance in the environmental and cultural memory of Egypt.

The heart-shaped basin spans over 500 square miles and holds stories dating back millions of years. The oasis began forming following the mass drying up of the Mediterranean Sea during the late Miocene period. When the crisis ended and the sea refilled the Nile River ultimately flooded and water flowed into the basin via the Bahr Youssef, transforming the desert expanse into a region of lush vegetation. 

During my visit with my family, I immediately understood why Fayoum was home to the first Egyptians to practice agriculture and exists as one of the world’s longest continuously occupied towns. We met our guide for the day at a restaurant in the village center, which could only be characterized as storybook-esque. The open air dining area overlooked a large garden that supplied fresh herbs and produce for the kitchen, and one of the basin’s many lakes loomed in the distance. The view served as a prime introduction to the rich botanical and marine legacy of Fayoum.

Fayoum entered into a golden era during the years 1817–1860 BCE under King Senusret III. The basin began to yield high volumes of rich produce, attracting growing populations and increasing trade with other regions in Egypt and civilizations abroad. Today, the people of the Fayoum live similarly to their ancient ancestors, farming the land and maintaining its reputation as an agricultural cornucopia and cultural time capsule. I saw donkeys pulling carts carrying fruits, vegetables and people from place to place along dusty dirt roads. Wooden fishing canoes dotted the shores of expansive man-made lakes, which were connected by Egypt’s largest waterfall. The entire basin seemed to have been protected from the clattering machinery and dense fog of industrialization. 

A fishing canoe in Fayoum. Masondan. CC BY-NC-SA 2.0.

After finishing up at the restaurant, my mother, father, sister and I loaded into a rugged white Jeep that transported us even further back in time. The green farmland and quaint villages soon disappeared in the rearview mirror as we sped deeper into the vast nothingness of the desert, with no visible landmarks to guide our way. Our driver seemed one with the sand, confidently navigating the dunes and never once even hinting at the possibility of getting lost. The Jeep rattled along for quite a while and, for a moment, I thought we may actually reach the edge of the Earth. Eventually, clusters of irregular shapes appeared on the horizon, and we approached the unique rock formations that marked the entrance to Wadi El-Hitan. 

Keriann Slayton

Discovered by a team of geologists in 1902, the 37-million-year-old fossils of “Whale Valley” make Senusret III’s reign seem like yesterday. After hopping out of the Jeep for photos in front of a landscape that looked like it was copied and pasted from another planet, we arrived at the visitor’s center, a structure organized as a collection of concrete domes with a relatively bare interior that revealed evolutionary secrets long buried beneath the sand. As we ventured deeper into the UNESCO World Heritage site, we encountered whale skeletons stretching as long as 50 feet, and alongside skulls and spines rested the bones that made up the legs and knees of the prehistoric creatures. The fossils confirmed scientists’ long-held suspicions that whales evolved from terrestrial mammals, transitioning to full-time life in the ocean over the course of millions of years. 

The most intriguing were the snake-like remains of the Basilosaurus, the enormous ancient whale whose bite marks were visible in the skulls of some smaller Dorudon skeletons. The fossils expose a history of Egypt that long predates the Pharaohs and their Pyramids, a history that predates the Nile itself. As we trekked up and down the dunes, following the fossil-flanked paths, the spirit of the ancient sea made itself undeniable even in the face of the endless desert—it began to rain. 

The drizzle, so rare in the Wadi, connected me and my family across time and species to the legacy of the massive marine beings so instrumental in evolutionary history. We explored for a few hours, and when we finally emerged from Whale Valley, we piled back into the Jeep and dune-busted our way to a remote lake, arriving just in time for sunset. Our driver built a fire and made traditional Berber tea, which we drank on the shores until darkness threatened our route out of the desert and we had to depart.

I fell asleep quickly on the nearly three hour drive back to Cairo, dreaming of colorfully painted wooden boats, sledding down sand dunes, and whales with legs.

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Keriann Slayton

Keriann is studying International Literary and Visual Studies and History at Tufts University, where she is a student athlete on the softball team and writes for the campus newspaper. Journalism allows her to meet fascinating people, engage with her community, and nurture her long-held passion for storytelling.  She loves to fuel her interest in history and culture through travel, and she has visited Spain, Germany, Greece, Egypt, Turkey, and Italy. She hopes to share compelling narratives from around the world in order to better connect humanity across time and cultures

Ski Trips Make a Comeback in Afghanistan

Untamed Borders navigates powder and a new administration as adventure enthusiasts transcend cultural and geographical borders

Tourist Skiing in Afghanistan. Neil Silverton

Afghanistan’s ski slopes have witnessed the return of tourists for the first time since the new Taliban government came into power in 2021. Untamed Borders is a UK based travel company, formed in 2008, that focuses on providing travel opportunities to some of the world's most interesting and inaccessible places. In 2011 it pioneered excursions to Afghanistan, and has recently decided to resume its trips to the non-traditional ski tourism destination.

The group sponsored onetrip in the winter of 2024 that lasted from February 22nd to March third. It began in Islamabad, Pakistan and ended in Kabul, Afghanistan. It was a magnet for those looking to experience the region’s rugged yet beautiful landscape. Skiers started in Pakistan, where they received visas, before flying to Kabul and driving to Bamian to spend four days skiing.

Group Skiing in Afghanistan. Ana Tasič, Untamed Borders

In 2025, the company is set to continue its trips to Afghanistan. For this upcoming year the trip will be set in the Bamian Province once again, with skiing taking place in the Koh e Baba Mountain range. Similar to past trips, travelers are expected to end in Kabul and begin by venturing through Islamabad and Peshiwar, Pakistan. Skiers will have the opportunity to be led by local guides, who will help them explore Afghanistan’s popular slopes and to experience backcountry skiing on routes that may have never been skied before. Travelers will additionally have the opportunity to visit the remains of Bamian’s famous Buddha statues, the ancient city of Shahr e Zohak and take part in the Afghan Peak Ski Race.

Ana Tasič, an international guide for Untamed Borders, emphasized the beauty of the trip to Bamian Province, highlighting the drive through the outskirts of the snowy Hindu Kush Mountains. She explained that it typically takes around four to six hours to get to the Province but that “the journey through the mountains is spectacular.”

Afghan Peaks Ski Race. Afghan Peaks Charitable Trust.

Each year, the annual ski trip run by Untamed Borders coincides with Afghanistan’s annual Afghan Peak Ski Race. International groups will be offered the opportunity to take part in it alongside locals. The race typically includes two different types of skiing. One race is for people using wooden skis and the other is for those using conventional skis. The competition allows people of all ages to compete, but has faced some challenges that allow women to participate as a result of the Taliban taking over. Tasič, a former teacher of the ski club for girls, mentioned the changes in government over the past couple of years that have prevented the participation of women.

“We can’t do anything with women in sports anymore, so this has definitely changed but there’s not much that we can do about it. We’re hoping that this changes in the next few years,” she said.

The new regime in Afghanistan has not created the need for Untamed Borders to up security considerations. Because the Taliban now run Afghanistan there is less of a worry over unpredictable attacks than before, although getting into the country has become complicated. While some changes have been made in regards to travel planning, Tasič reassured those considering the trip that although “a lot has changed in the last eight years, one thing that stands out is the hospitality of the people there.” She mentioned how the trip is an opportunity for travelers to not just meet locals but to spend a week with them and get to see how they live.

“We get to experience Afghanistan in a way that most people don’t. It’s not just a ski trip, but it’s also a cultural and hospitality trip,” Tasič said.

TO GET INVOLVED

For the 2025 trip, those interested can find more information on Untamed Borders’ website. The trip to Afghanistan costs $2,850 USD and dates are not yet finalized, but when they are they will be posted to the same site for travelers to easily access.

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Mira White

Mira is a student at Brown University studying international and public affairs. Passionate about travel and language learning, she is eager to visit each continent to better understand the world and the people across it. In her free time she perfects her French, hoping to someday live in France working as a freelance journalist or in international affairs.

Nature’s Day in Court: Ireland’s Green Revolution

Ireland may become the first European country to constitutionally recognize that ecosystems possess legal rights.

Seascape in Ireland. Giuseppe Milo. CC BY 2.0 DEED

Ireland, a nation renowned for breathtaking landscapes, may become the first European country to enshrine the rights of its nature into the national constitution. In December, the Oireachtas Joint Committee on Environment and Climate Action called on the government to begin steps towards a referendum. The referendum, if successful, would recognize that ecosystems possess legal rights comparable to those of humans and corporations.

In December, the Joint Committee on Environment and Climate Action proposed a series of administrative measures for drafting constitutional amendments to the Irish government. The amendments would bestow nature with inherent rights to existence, perpetuation and restoration. Elements of nature would be seen as having the rights to flourish and be respected. The amendment would additionally recognize that humans have a right to a clean environment and protect the right of any person or organization to defend or enforce those rights on the behalf of nature.

The movement to legislate the rights of nature has grown in recent years. In Ireland, the proposition to amend the constitution emanated from the loss of biodiversity within the country as of 2023. The Citizens’ Assembly on Biodiversity Loss addressed the unprecedented rate at which human activity has driven the mass extinction of plants and animals, with over 1 million more at risk of the same. The danger to Ireland's native species has been attributed to the overall change in its climate.

Similar to Ireland, the ecosystems of other countries have equally felt the effects of climate change. In the Andean plain of Bolivia, reduced precipitation and increased temperatures have facilitated rapid desertification. In Uganda, the pace of species extinctions has accelerated as a result of prolonged periods of drought and erratic rainfall due to deforestation. These countries, among others including Ecuador, New Zealand, and Spain, have a form of national law to recognize the rights of nature, or legal personhood for ecosystems. These laws typically provide a higher level of protection to ecosystems than environmental protection laws alone, although not all are constitutionally bound. Some countries that have written the Rights of Nature include Ecuador, New Zealand, India and Mexico.

Policymakers around the world have begun to embrace a changing idea of how nature itself is treated under law. Several governments have legally bound the ‘rights of nature’ to protect certain land and water from human development. In Bangladesh, all rivers are now under legal protection. In Colombia, the Supreme Court recognized the rights of the Amazon River. Ecuador, the first country in the world to recognize the rights of nature, gives “Mother Earth” legal standing in its constitution. This jurisprudence has prompted a massive shift away from the view of nature as a ‘thing’ that humans have a right to use and eventually destroy. Dr Peter Doran of the School of Law at Queen's University Belfast argued to the Joint Committee in Ireland that granting constitutional protection to nature would not only save species and habitats but also reorient human priorities, which would have much more long term positive consequences.

Despite the good intentions behind giving nature constitutional rights, some have called the law ‘anti-human,’ claiming that it will stop extractive projects such as mining or that the rights for nature are unlikely to provide a plausible solution to the issues environmentalists aim to resolve. Proponents respond that the laws aim to protect the integrity of nature so that it may persist in the future, not abolish the rights that humans have to, among other things, private property.

The Center for Democratic and Environmental Rights appeared before Ireland’s Joint Committee to testify for why the rights of nature should be constitutionally recognized. This next step for Ireland is now in the hands of the government and the Oireachtas (parliament). For legal effect, the amendments must be approved by both houses of the Oireachtas, Dail Eireann and the Seanad, and win a majority of the popular vote in a national referendum.

TO GET INVOLVED:

The Nature Conservancy is an organization focused on creating solutions to climate change and biodiversity loss. By tackling these issues with projects involving clean energy policies, carbon storage and agricultural innovation, there is no shortage of opportunities for the public to help. The organization lists ways to get involved on their website that range from volunteering to taking a pledge to donating.

Global Alliance for Rights of Nature is a global network of organizations made up of people from all walks of life who are committed to the recognition of the Rights of Nature. The group aims to honor the relationship between humans and nature, additionally pursuing the creation of a system that treats nature as a rights-bearing entity, not a resource to be exploited at will. To better emphasize the interconnectedness of humans and their environment, the group offers the opportunity to get involved as a member, donate, or even participate in internships.

Community Environmental Legal Defense Fund aims to build sustainable communities that assist people in asserting their right to local self-governance and the rights of nature. The group assists indigenous peoples, civil societies and communities in advancing laws for the protection of nature that involves providing legislative and policy drafting, legal research, and public engagement and education. With this, the public is able to join the movement, which offers many opportunities to volunteer in a community or help to organize a campaign.

EarthJustice is a nonprofit public interest environmental law organization that is founded on the belief that everyone has the right to a healthy environment. Through projects focusing on defending a right to clean air, clean water and wild places, the group believes that a better future can be built. With 15 offices and 200 lawyers, as well as an impressive total of 500 legal cases it has represented free of charge, there is no shortage of opportunities for the public to participate, whether through signing petitions or donating.

Mira White

Mira is a student at Brown University studying international and public affairs. Passionate about travel and language learning, she is eager to visit each continent to better understand the world and the people across it. In her free time she perfects her French, hoping to someday live in France working as a freelance journalist or in international affairs.

Fairies and Folklore: The Magic of Scotland and England

From castles to coves, uncover destinations steeped in the mythological histories of Scotland and England.

Portree, Isle of Skye’s capital city. CC BY 3.0

Whether your knowledge of fairies comes from nostalgic childhood tales or the well-informed worldbuilding of Tolkein, much of the folklore that has made its way into the popular imagination is embedded deep within the rolling hills of Scotland and England.  

While each country has its variations of the myth, taking a tour through the whimsical high grassed countryside and rocky shores is a great way to take in some awe-inspiring views and understand the magic embedded in these countries.

Scotland

Located off of Scotland's northwest coast, the Isle of Skye is full of picturesque villages, cliffed shores and quaint fishing towns. But rather than only enjoying the colorful coastal houses on Portree, the island's capital, extend your adventure and visit various sights around the island boasting mythical pedigrees.

Fairy Pools

A waterfall at the Fairy Pools on the Isle of Skye. CC BY 3.0

A waterfall phenomenon in Glen Brittle, the falls are surrounded by sky-capped mountains and boast aqua-blue waters of astonishing clarity. Some claim if you’re lucky, you may spot a fae or two amongst the willowing grasses and purple flowers; if not, the red deer, sheep, and rabbits inhabiting the area will have to suffice.

The pool's name comes from the local legend that claims a Clan McLeod Chief married a fairy Princess. Additionally, the pools are said to attract selkies, a group of mythical creatures that spend the day on the coast as seals and then enjoy the pools at night after transitioning to human form. 

Despite their charm, the Fairy Pools feature some brutally cold water temperatures, although it may be worthwhile to take a dip; as locals say, holding your head underwater for seven seconds is enough to bless you with the gift of eternal youth.

From the capital city of Portree, the Fairy Pools are a 35-minute drive and can be accessed through various tours operating on the island or of your own volition. The Fairy Pools walk is a 1.5-mile, easy hike to the pools from the parking lot.

Dunvegan Castle and Gardens

The Dunvegan Castle. CC BY-NC-ND 2.0 DEED

Open from March 29 to October 15, the Dunvegan Castle and Gardens is a medieval fortress dating back to the 1200s. Occupied by the same family for the last 800 years, the Hebridean castle is home to a few pieces of myth. On the Dunvegan property, one can walk across Fairy Bridge while exploring the grounds and even see the Fairy Flag, which is housed in the Castle.

The Fairy Flag is the prized silk scarf woven in the 4th century AD, either in Syria or Rhodes, and is said to possess miraculous powers instrumental in MacLeod’s battle victories. While there are two points of origin, a fairy origin and a crusader origin, the Fairy Bridge and Tower versions give the flag roots in folklore.

The Fairy Tower myth tells the tale of a restless MacLeod chief’s baby who was comforted one night by a fairy. The Fairy Bridge myth relates to the previously mentioned story of the MacLeod Chief and Fairy Princess; the story goes that the two parted ways on Fairy Bridge at Dunvegan, and the banner was his gift.

An astounding horticultural destination, Dunvegan boasts multiple gardens and woodland trails. The landscape and fauna are a wonder unto themselves. The gardens also feature lily ponds, gazebos and rare artifacts, such as a 17th-century sundial.

Located a 30-minute drive from Portree, the castle makes for an excellent excursion when visiting Scotland. While the Dunvegan Castle and Gardens offers visitor tours daily and make for a great day trip, the property's five holiday cottages allow visitors to enjoy an enchanting multi-day stay on the secluded property.

Fairy Glen

The labyrinth and peak at Fairy Glen on the Isle of Skye. CC BY NC-2.0

Protruding from the surrounding farmlands, Fairy Glen is a geographical landscape formed by an ancient landslide. The craggy formations and valleys are blanketed by a lush layer of green and are rumored to be home to the fae.  

Climbing up Fairy Glen’s peak or walking beneath the cover of moss-engulfed trees will make anyone feel like they are walking amongst the faeries. Be sure to stop and make a wish at the stone labyrinth when you are making your way through.

Fairy Glen is about a 25-minute drive from Portree, and various tours include this location as a stop. From the destination's parking lot there is a one-mile walking circuit that showcases the grounds, but feel free to adventure on your own and enjoy this majestic landscape.

England

On the rugged Southwestern tip of England, Cornwall is home to many of the country's mythical and folktales. Cornwall has its own variety of fairies, the Piskeys, a lively and mischievous people who originated from tales of a Pygmy race in Cornwall during the Neolithic period. More than just fairies, Cornwall is rumored to be home to mermaids, giants, and various King Arthur myths.

Sennen Cove

The coastline and surrounding shore at Sennen Cove. CC BY-SA 4.0 DEED.

England’s most westerly beach, Sennen Cove, is a white sand beach renowned for its excellent surfing conditions. In the early 20th century, American Anthropologist Walter Evan Wentz published "The Fairy Faith In Celtic Countries", conducting some of his research at Sennen Cove by speaking to locals about the dancing fairies. A study published at a similar time in the Journal of the Society for Psychic Research tells the story of Grace Penrose as written by E. Westlake. She speaks of miniature people in white dancing in the moonlight before being frightened and disappearing into a rock face along the shore.

To get to Sennen Cove, visitors can take a bus that leaves every two hours from Penzance or make the 20-minute drive themselves. Once at the Cove, you can enjoy Whitesands Bay, the stretch of white sand beach on the Cove’s coast. Overlooking the cove, stop at the Old Success Inn, a pub dating back to the 17th century, for lunch and drink. The Inn has a rich history in Sennen Cove and is rumored to be a site for mermaid sightings.

Elusive in nature, when visiting Sennen Cove, you may not stumble upon any fairies in the moonlight or catch a glimpse of mermaid tales ducking under the blue waves, but the Cove is perfect for a beach getaway anyway.

St. Michael’s Mount

The castle and causeway leading up to St. Michael’s Mount. CC BY-SA 3.0 DEED

A tidal island in Cornwall’s Mount Bay, St. Michael’s Mount is home to one of England’s most famous legends. Rumors of mermaids luring sailors to the island’s shores date as far back as 495 AD, but even more prominent is the Cornish tale of Jack the Giant Killer. With the island as his home, the evil Cormoran was defeated by none other than Jack after a long reign of terror. Per the legend, when visiting, be sure to hike up the mountain and around the island in search of the giant's missing stone heart.

Outside of folklore, the site is also a religious destination. Archangel Michael was rumored to have guided sailors to safety at the current location of the castle’s entry. Named after that patron saint of fishermen, St. Michael’s causeway allows travelers and pilgrims alike to walk from the mainland to the island during low tide.

To reach the island, walking over the causeway is one option; however, if it happens to be high tide, from March 29 to October 31 there are boats running from Marazion Beach to the island. Riddled with history, the castle, church and surrounding gardens offer a fusion of folk and faith, making Mount St. Michael a beautiful, enchanting destination on a Celtic fairytale tour.

Nicola is studying English Literature at George Washington University, where she also reports for the student newspaper, The Hatchet. Nicola's passion for literature and writing has sparked an interest in exploring the broader context surrounding written texts. Researching and writing for Catalyst Planet allows her to investigate nuanced issues that intersect with her interests in art history, culinary practices, and cultural traditions.

Nicola is studying English Literature at George Washington University, where she also reports for the student newspaper, The Hatchet. Nicola's passion for literature and writing has sparked an interest in exploring the broader context surrounding written texts. Researching and writing for Catalyst Planet allows her to investigate nuanced issues that intersect with her interests in art history, culinary practices, and cultural traditions.

Nicola is studying English Literature at George Washington University, where she also reports for the student newspaper, The Hatchet. Nicola's passion for literature and writing has sparked an interest in exploring the broader context surrounding written texts. Researching and writing for Catalyst Planet allows her to investigate nuanced issues that intersect with her interests in art history, culinary practices, and cultural traditions. Nicola is studying English Literature at George Washington University, where she also reports for the student newspaper, The Hatchet. Nicola's passion for literature and writing has sparked an interest in exploring the broader context surrounding written texts. Researching and writing for Catalyst Planet allows her to investigate nuanced issues that intersect with her interests in art history, culinary practices, and cultural traditions.

Nicola Degregorio

Nicola is studying English Literature at George Washington University, where she also reports for the student newspaper, The Hatchet. Nicola's passion for literature and writing has sparked an interest in exploring the broader context surrounding written texts. Researching and writing for Catalyst Planet allows her to investigate nuanced issues that intersect with her interests in art history, culinary practices, and cultural traditions.

Graffiti Capitals: 9 of the World’s Best Cities for Street Art

From Argentina to Estonia, artists around the world commemorate and contribute to city culture through street art.

Street art by Cabaio Stencil in Bueno Aires, Argentina. Parisa. CC BY-NC-SA 2.0

1. Bogota, Colombia

Street art in Bogota, Columbia. McKay Savage. CC BY 2.0

Lying in the east Andes mountains, Colombia’s capital Bogota is home to blocks of mural-covered walls. While graffiti has been decriminalized since 2013, the road to get here was violent. In 2011, 16-year-old Diego Becerra was shot and killed by police for spray painting, causing an uproar among Bogota’s residents.

The following advocacy to decriminalize spray painting was successful. The government’s relationship with street art continued to evolve after Justin Bieber visited Bogota in 2013 and was allowed to spray paint with police protection. The hypocrisy of giving special license and support to the Canadian singer spurred further advocacy, and now Bogota’s government actively promotes spray painting and other forms of street art. 

Today, travelers can revel in Bogota’s street art throughout the city, from the airport to downtown. Some must-see destinations include Distrito Graffiti, an industrial area where two whole blocks are decorated with vibrant paint, and La Candelaria, Bogota’s historical quarter featuring murals strewn throughout storefronts and parks.

2. Buenos Aires, Argentina

Street art in Buenos Aires, Argentina. Wally Gobetz. CC BY-NC-ND 2.0

Home of the record-breaking mural spanning over 20,000 square feet, Buenos Aires boasts a flourishing street art scene thanks to minimal restrictions and generally supportive attitudes. 

Stimulating murals dot the Argentine capital from north to south. Here, artists use cityscapes as a canvas to pay homage to their history and culture through vibrant and satirical murals. 

Travelers have access to a variety of ways to take in these works of art, from strolling about to partaking in self-guided or private tours. For those with tight budgets yearning to experience some of these masterpieces, there are several online exhibits only a click away.

3. Cape Town, South Africa

Street art in Cape Town, South Africa. Tsn92. CC BY 2.0

Situated among mountains on the Atlantic Ocean, Cape Town has a history drenched in creativity in spite of longstanding adversity. Areas like District Six maintained vibrant cultural and artistic diversity throughout Apartheid, while some areas such as Woodstock have had a post-Apartheid revival. 

During the 1980s, Cape Town's graffiti culture materialized as a tool to resist apartheid, with artists like Falko One using their street art to address injustice. Despite 30 years having passed since the collapse of the Apartheid regime, segregation and inequity persist alongside the street art calling attention to them. 

In February 2024, the eighth International Public Arts Festival took place in Cape Town. Each year, the festival offers locals and explorers alike an opportunity to immerse themselves in Cape Town’s street art culture.

4. Lisbon, Portugal

Street art in Lisbon, Portugal. Pedro Ribeiro Simões. CC BY 2.0 DEED

The evolution of Lisbon’s street art is exceptional, transforming a city with predominantly white buildings into one renowned for its color-filled streets over the past three centuries. 

Color began to be incorporated into building designs during the 1750s, and street art as we know it today didn’t appear until the democratic revolution in 1974. Meanwhile, an even deeper past lies underneath the streets in the 2,000-year-old Roman Galleries, where visitors can find ancient inscriptions on the tunnel walls.

Now, buildings across the city serve as canvases for artists, with many spanning several stories. Lisbon street artists don’t limit themselves to spray paint. Artists such as Vhils and Bordalo II get creative with their methods, incorporating chiseling techniques and found objects into their work.

5. Lodz, Poland

Street art in Lodz, Poland. Aira. CC BY-NC-SA 2.0

Often referred to as the capital of Polish street art, Lodz is a city with a rich history in the arts, gaining recognition over the years for its audiovisual arts scene ranging from fashion to film.

Many organizations have taken initiatives to support and expand street art in Lodz. Since 2009 the Urban Forms Foundation has been at the forefront of Lodz's street art movement. This organization offers advice to urban artists while maintaining the Urban Forms Gallery, a collection of creatively coated walls intended to bring life and recognition to the community. 

Local street artists like M-City and the Etam Crew enhance the landscape with murals in styles ranging from futurism to realism. Lodz draws urban artists from around the world, with the Urban Forms Gallery project engaging artists from eight countries. 

6. Penang, Malaysia

Street art in Penang, Malaysia. Mohd Fazlin Mohd Effendy Ooi. CC BY 2.0

Hundreds of murals drape the skyline of Penang, Malaysia. The street art movement began in 2012 when the Penang Tourist Board commissioned Ukrainian street artist Ernest Zacharevic. 

Street art in Penang has since been a means of reflecting community culture and values. Zacharevic’s murals center on local communities and history, and can be seen throughout George Town. In the same city, travelers can also admire pieces like the 12-mural series of stray cats created by local organizations using street art to call attention to issues like animal welfare. 

7. Stavanger, Norway

Street art in Stavanger, Norway. Sílvia Darnís. CC BY-NC-SA 2.0 DEED

In Stavanger, Norway, explorers can gaze upon the paradox of traditional architecture contrasted with progressive street art. Here, travelers can find a plethora of urban masterpieces created by world-famous street artists like Banksy and local talent like Algebra.

The dynamic street art scene today can be traced back to the Nuart Street Art Festival. Since 2001, the Nuart Festival has gathered teams of street artists from around the world to collaborate on projects throughout Stavanger. Beyond the creation of new street art, the Nuart Festival contributes to Stavanger’s urban art culture by hosting events, tours and workshops around the city.

For those looking to take a step further into the world of street art, some street artists in Stavanger offer classes. 

8. Tallinn, Estonia

Street art in Tallinn, Estonia. Karen Bryan. CC BY-ND 2.0 DEED

Although the emergence of street art in Tallinn, Estonia, is fairly recent, this city has much to offer to travelers seeking masterful creations on city walls. In 2016, an official street art program began, initially centered around street dance, but some initial mural painting provided building blocks for a soon-to-be burgeoning street art movement.

The following year, the Mextonia Festival brought Estonian and international street art into the spotlight. This cross-cultural festival was a gift from Mexico to celebrate 100 years of independence for the Baltic nation. Today, visitors can see collaborative murals from this festival incorporating folk mythology and symbolism. Over 30 murals from the Mextonia Festival dot highways and cover walls throughout the city.

9. Valparaiso, Chile

Street art in Valparaiso, Chile. Gabriel White. CC BY-SA 2.0 DEED

Located on Central Chile’s Pacific Coast and often referred to as the Jewel of the Pacific, Valparaiso Chile is known to be among the most tagged cities in the world. Some murals in Valparaiso created by artists like Roberto Matta date back to the 1960s.

A couple of the best places to view Valparaiso’s breathtaking street art are Templeman Street and the open-air street art museum in Bellavista. Valparaiso’s hilly terrain provides numerous viewpoints for street art gazing. 

A unique piece created in 2012 by Inti Castro spans three buildings and can only be viewed from Paseo de Atkinson in Concepcion Hill and Carcel Hill. Castro’s horizontal giant is far from the only street art you can see at Concepcion Hill, which is a great starting point for self-guided tours.

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Madison Paulus

Madison is a student at George Washington University studying international affairs, journalism, mass communication, and Arabic. Born and raised in Seattle, Washington, Madison grew up in a creative, open-minded environment. With passions for human rights and social justice, Madison uses her writing skills to educate and advocate. In the future, Madison hopes to pursue a career in science communication or travel journalism.

The Rules of War in the Israel-Hamas Conflict

Human rights organizations report on dire humanitarian conditions in Israel and Palestine, alleging violations of international law.

London Demonstration for Palestine. Alisdare Hickson. CC BY-SA 2.0 DEED

Since the escalation of violence in the conflict between Israeli forces and Palestinian armed factions, alleged violations of International Humanitarian Law (IHL) have surfaced. Both sides have faced criticism regarding allegations that may constitute a breach of IHL.

The United Nations Office for the Coordination of Humanitarian Affairs (OCHA) describes IHL law designed to safeguard civilians and prohibit indiscriminate attacks against them. This provision is binding on all armed groups involved in a conflict, regardless of reciprocal actions. The OCHA, with this law in mind, has drawn up potential allegations against Israeli and Palestinian combatants, which take aim at Israeli military tactics and use of prohibited weapons as well as Palestinian armed groups’ conduct.

With the intensification of the violence and the number of Palestinians who have been displaced, there has been rising criticism regarding the weaponry and tactics that Israel has employed against Palestine. More serious allegations include the use of white phosphorus in well-populated areas of Gaza, which has harmful effects on human tissue. This, among other tactics such as blockades and airstrikes, have resulted in high civilian casualties, raising questions with regard to the potential for indiscriminate suffering and collective punishment.

Palestinian actors have also breached rules of IHL. Human Rights Watch reports that armed groups, such as Hamas, have used indiscriminate rocket firing into Israeli territories, giving reason to accuse those involved of targeting Israeli civilians specifically, warranting a war crime.

Apart from OCHA, other human rights organizations have also begun to contend the violence as war crime and collective punishment. Amnesty International, an organization focused on human rights, has found Israel’s system of governing Palestinians in Israel and the Occupied Palestinian Territories to be oppressive and discriminatory. Citing the forced eviction of thousands of Palestinians, use of arbitrary detention by Israeli authorities and torture or ill-treatment of civilians, Amnesty has expressed the belief that Israel’s actions constitute a system of aparthied under international law. 

The International Federation For Human Rights (FIDH) has additionally expressed concern over the targeting of civilians and human rights violations in Israel and the occupied territories. From the gathered evidence of human rights abuses, FIDH has acknowledged a tightened system of apartheid by Israel, involving the displacement of Palestinians in the West Bank, denial of freedom of movement and incidents of torture, all amounting to crimes against humanity. As of November 2023, Israel held close to 7,000 Palestinians that, with restrictions on water and overcrowded conditions, subjected detainees to what is now being considered ill-treatment and collective punishment. Tal Steiner, executive director of the Public Committee Against Torture in Israel, commented on the treatment of Palestinian detainees, saying that “Punitive detention conditions, arbitrary violence and humiliation of detainees and the intentional infliction of torture, should all be absolutely prohibited and unacceptable.”

The International Criminal Court (ICC) has become involved with the conflict as a potential route for prosecuting those accused of war crime and human rights abuses. Israel has argued that the ICC does not have jurisdiction because of its views regarding Palestine’s statehood, however, the mandate by ICC has gathered international support as viable protection against war crimes. The collection of evidence gathered by human rights organizations has aided in the investigation by the ICC, and the pursuit of accountability in this current situation has been viewed as one of the most crucial steps in ending the violence.

Both the Israeli and Palestinian governments and terrorist organizations like Hamas are responsible for upholding human rights, regardless of the applicability of international law in the case of the conflict between the two. Those infractions adjudicated as war crimes may be subject to legal repercussions, but as the international community awaits further development, accountability as an avenue for resolution remains integral.

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Mira White

Mira is a student at Brown University studying international and public affairs. Passionate about travel and language learning, she is eager to visit each continent to better understand the world and the people across it. In her free time she perfects her French, hoping to someday live in France working as a freelance journalist or in international affairs.

The Rise of Cat Cafes: Popularity and Pitfalls

While they have a rich history and are fun for humans, cat cafes are a hot topic in animal rights ethics.

Cat in cafe window. Atahan Demir. CC0.

Scooping litter, carpets of cat hair, vet visits and medical bills: taking care of a cat—or any other animal, for that matter—can be both tedious and expensive. But on the other hand, cats are adorable, energetic and entertaining furballs. Previously, there was no in between—if you wanted a cat, it was either all in or nothing. Now there is an in-between solution: cat cafes. Cat cafes serve typical coffee shop beverages and pastries with the added bonus of being able to spend time with a variety of cats and kittens. Often cat cafes charge based on time spent at the cafe, with most cafes having set rates for either 30 minutes or one hour with the cats. 

Although cat cafes are currently immensely popular, at one point they weren’t the global phenomenon they are today. The first cat cafe, Cat Flower Garden, was founded in Taipei, Taiwan in 1998. Although there were other cafes to house cats prior to Cat Flower Garden, they were the first cafe to market themselves specifically as being a cat cafe. Now, people from both Taiwan and around the world not only come to play with their fifteen in-house cats, but also to ask for business advice. When Cat Flower Garden first opened its doors, however, business was slow. It took both time and media coverage for people to warm up to the idea of having cats pounce around hot drinks and food.

A cat sitting near a cup of coffee. Bulat Khamitov. CC0.

Tourists brought the idea back to Japan, and in 2004 a cafe in Osaka successfully opened. Multiple cafes opened in Tokyo in 2005 and soon the demand for cat cafes took off. People from around the world traveled to both the original location in Taiwan and the new business ventures in Japan’s metropolises. The cafes opened in Japan were a turning point in this phenomenon’s popularity because cities like Osaka and Tokyo are so densely populated that many people do not have the room or time to be able to take care of cats properly. Thus, people who did not own pets but were still cat lovers could have an opportunity to spend time with their favorite animal. 

As business boomed in Asia, many people in the United States also took note of the cafe's popularity. As the first cafe in the United States opened in Oakland, California in 2014, when pet food company Purina ONE sponsored a pop-up cafe in New York City that same year, the public became even more interested in this new, eccentric concept. But, as cat cafes began to pop up throughout the United States and on a global scale—with openings in Melbourne, Australia, Munich, Germany and London, for example—some began to question the ethics of cat cafes.

Lounging Cat. Pixabay. CC0.

One United Kingdom based animal welfare charity, the Royal Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals (RSPCA), made a statement that deemed cat cafes unethical due to the poor, unstable socialization of cats and the occasional unclean cafe. Moreover, many cafes do not properly vaccinate or neuter their cats, leading to diseases running rampant among their tenants. Also, while many cat cafes source their animals from rescues, some rely on breeders, giving no succor to the vast number of shelter cats that are left unadopted and, in turn, are euthanized.

At the same time, many cat cafes source their animals from rescues or shelters, which in turn helps them get adopted by cafe patrons. This is why if you want to reap the benefits of cat cafes—which have reportedly been linked to reducing anxiety in humans—you should know how to identify an ethical versus unethical cafe. An easy call ahead can help determine the status of the cafe. First, you can ask where the cats living in the cafe are sourced from, if they can be adopted, and if they have been both vaccinated and neutered. You can also plan a visit to the cafe before investing money in a session. If the cat cafe is dirty, the cats do not have proper spaces to retreat to if overwhelmed, or if the staff do not have proper knowledge of how to properly care for a cat, then it may be safe to deem the cafe unethical. Whether you intend to enjoy some delicious coffee and quick play time with cats or are considering adoption, here are ten popular cafes:

1. Cat Cafe Calico Kichijoji (Park Exit), Tokyo, Japan

2. The Witty Whisker, St. Augustine, Florida, United States.

3. Cat Town, Oakland, California, United States.

4. La Gatoteca, Madrid, Spain

5. Whiskers and Cream, London, England

6. Brooklyn Cat Cafe, Brooklyn, New York, United States

7. Camulet, New Taipei City, Taiwan

8. Crumbs and Whiskers, locations in both Los Angeles, California and Washington, DC, United States

9. Beans Cat Cafe, locations in both Beacon and New Paltz, New York, United States

10. Catfe, Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada

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Carina Cole

Carina Cole is a media studies student with a concentration in creative writing at Vassar College. She is an avid journalist and occasional flash fiction writer. Her passion for writing overlaps with environmentalism, feminism, social justice, and a desire to travel beyond the United States. When she’s not writing, you can find her meticulously curating playlists or picking up a paintbrush.

Afghanistan’s Only Female Tour Guide Hosts Virtual Tours

This is the story of 24-year-old Fatima Haidari’s love and dedication to her country — from 3,000 miles away.

Bamyan Province, Afghanistan. Untamed Borders.

Meet Fatima Haidari: a 24-year-old guide who offers virtual tours of her country, Afghanistan. Forced to flee by the Taliban, Fatima now resides in Milan, Italy and provides a detailed tourist experience through Zoom of the Afghan city of Herat — taking visitors through sites such as the Citadel and the Central Blue Mosque.

Before the Taliban seized power in August 2021, Fatima worked as a local tour guide in Herat, using the job as a means to pay for her education, where she studied journalism and mass communication at university. Fatima is also the first ever female tour guide in Afghanistan, recognized in headlines in 2020. While she is no longer able to offer those in-person tours of her homeland, she continues to do what she can to show Herat off to the world — not just because the city is a beautiful and interesting place to explore, but because she doesn’t want outsiders to associate Afghanistan only with war and terror. Rather, its culture and history are what matter to her, and should take center stage.
But her passion and love for her country isn’t the only place Fatima’s heart lies. Growing up in the mountains in the central region of Ghor, Fatima was the youngest of seven children and was denied a rightful education, because she was a woman and because her family lacked the money. She worked for three years, making items such as traditional clothes to earn her way into an education, and was finally able to convince her parents to allow her to go to university in Herat in 2019, where she studied journalism.

Fatima in Herat. Untamed Borders.

Through years of hard work, Fatima was able to get an education. But many girls back home in Afghanistan do not have the same privilege. Considered one of the lucky ones to have fled, Fatima will use a portion of the money she earns from the Afghan virtual tours to donate to a women's education charity, which currently operates in Afghanistan.

Fatima partners with Untamed Borders — a travel operator dedicated to taking groups to some of the most interesting and inaccessible places — to make these virtual tours possible. The approximately 1.5 hour tour will take guests to see the 1,400-year-old Great Mosque, the Herat Citadel and through the city’s bazaars and traditional teahouses, while Fatima narrates stories about Afghanistan that focus on its people, culture and extensive history. 

But this event is a milestone itself. There has never been a virtual tour of Herat, and as Afghanistan’s first-ever female tour guide, this is a groundbreaking step to inspire other women in the nation. As Fatima says, she wants to be a changer, not a victim.

Fatima leading a virtual group tour. Untamed Borders.

And, of course, there can be no frank and open discussion about the people of Afghanistan without mentioning its women. Not only are they denied an education, Fatima has said the reascendant Taliban forces women to marry and perpetrates sexual or physical abuse against them. Things are more expensive for women, even though they are losing their jobs and forced to become housewives. By shining a light on the current situation in Afghanistan, Fatima is able to talk about her homeland while also spreading awareness to those able to make a difference.

Fatima’s next virtual tour will take place on September 12. Guests are able to book through Untamed Borders, and tickets will cost $60. 

Through her own personal experiences and ties to a country seized by tyranny, Fatima hopes to share what makes Afghanistan so distinct and worthy of exploration while also fighting for justice, so that the women there will grow up knowing what it’s like to go to school. 

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Michelle Tian

Michelle is a senior at Boston University, majoring in journalism and minoring in philosophy. Her parents are first-generation immigrants from China, so her love for different cultures and traveling came naturally at a young age. After graduation, she hopes to continue sharing important messages through her work.

ART REVIEW: Ai Wei’s New Exhibit Highlights Activism and Mass Production

Not one to shy away from political statements, Chinese artist and activist Ai Weiwei’s recent exhibition questions mass production and highlights human rights tragedies around the world.

Ai sits atop “Still Life,” one of the works presented in Making Sense consisting of 1,600 tools from the late Stone Age. Ai Weiwei Studio. CC BY-NC 2.0

Internationally renowned Chinese artist Ai Weiwei is known for his ability to present political opinions and insights through artwork that relies heavily on everyday objects, and his latest exhibit is no different. Titled “Making Sense,” the exhibit, which has been on display at London’s Design Museum since April 7 and will remain there until July 30, includes a number of Ai’s decommissioned artworks as well as a handful of new pieces. This exhibit marks the first time Ai has offered commentary on the practice of design and what it means for the value society places on objects.

Ai Weiwei pictured talking to reporters outside of his studio soon after his release from detainment in 2011. Getty Images. CC BY-SA 2.0

While Ai is most widely known as an artist, he is also an internationally recognized human rights activist due to the strong political statements he makes both through his art and his speech. He has long been openly critical of the Chinese government’s stance on the democratic process and human rights, which led to a stint under house arrest in 2010. The government claimed that he had built his Shanghai studio illegally and scheduled it to be demolished, although many believed that this was simply an excuse to further crackdown on dissent.

Ai has also regularly conducted investigations into government corruption and scandals which were covered up, resulting in his arrest in April of 2011 due to “economic crimes”. He was detained for a total of 81 days without ever being charged, and upon release, was hailed as the father of modernism in China. His clashes with the Chinese government have meant that freedom of expression and free speech are central themes to a lot of his work, and he often tries to draw parallels between his experiences in China with what he sees happening in the US, Europe, and elsewhere.

Photographs from the “Study of Perspective” collection are displayed above the stone age tools. Ed Reeve. CC BY-NC-ND 2.0

In “Making Sense,” many of the works are large collections of objects both ordinary and rare, meant to probe his audience’s views on mass production and consumption, from lego bricks to stone-age tools, pottery shards to porcelain cannonballs from the Song dynasty (960 - 1279 CE). True to his activism, there are also a number of works highlighting various human rights and social justice issues, such as the poor response of the Mainland Chinese government after the Sichuan earthquake in 2008 and the ongoing refugee crisis in Southern Europe.

Among the decommissioned works in the exhibit is a collection of photographs titled “Study of Perspective,” in which only Ai’s hand is seen emerging from behind the camera, holding up his middle finger before a variety of backgrounds including the Eiffel Tower, Tiananmen Square, and the White House. Shot between 1995 and 2017, these photographs were meant to mimic those taken by tourists in front of these popular landmarks, while simultaneously presenting a sharp statement of opposition to the political institutions they represent.

A sea of donated lego bricks makes up the “Untitled (Lego Incident)” Work in the exhibit. Ed Reeve. CC BY-NC-ND 2.0

Another work, “Untitled (Lego Incident),” comprises hundreds of Lego pieces donated to Ai after Lego refused to sell him any of their products in 2014. He had been previously been using Lego bricks to create portraits of imprisoned human rights activists to display as part of his “@Large” exhibit displayed in the infamous prison on Alcatraz Island, but Lego blacklisted Ai, announcing that their products are not meant to be used for political messages. His response on social media resulted in these donations, with this exhibition the first time the Legos will be part of a formal production. This field of bricks lies in front of another Lego based artwork in which Ai has reinterpreted the famous Monet painting of water lilies, using over 650,000 individual bricks to create a wall piece which stretches for almost 50 feet (roughly 15.2 meters). 

Some of the works are of a much more personal nature, such as “Left Right Studio Material,” a carpet of blue glazed pottery shards leftover from when the Chinese government raided Ai’s studio in 2018 demolishing everything they could find. At the time Ai had been experimenting with the ceramics, trying to create the largest possible sphere that would fire in his kiln without shattering. One such bubble is visible to the right of the shards, a lone survivor of the studio raid. This work is one of a handful that speak to Ai’s fascination and appreciation of artisanal Chinese craftwork, porcelain making being among many that are quickly dying out thanks to automated mass manufacturing processes.

A close-up view of the porcelain teapot shards that comprise “Spouts”. Ian Mansfield. CC BY-SA 2.0

In this vein, the two works “Untitled (Porcelain Balls)” and “Spouts” also pay homage to Chinese porcelain, the former a field of over 200,000 porcelain cannonballs from the Song Dynasty; Ai was shocked by  the use of such a delicate material to make ammunition. The latter is a collection of over 250,000 porcelain spouts broken off of teapots that were not perfect enough to be sold. These massive collections have been curated by Ai himself since the 90s and aim to question how we decide what objects are worthy of value: each of the cannonballs or stone age tools could be placed in a museum given their historical significance, but Ai was able to find them for next to nothing in Chinese flea markets.

“Backpack Snake” (left) and “Life Vest Snake” (right) adorn the back wall of the exhibit. Ed Reeve. CC BY-NC-ND 2.0

Conversely, the two winding snakes on the back wall of the exhibit are dedicated to the victims of the Sichuan earthquake in 2008 and the refugees who lost their lives making the journey to Europe from Syria. Titled “Backpack Snake” and “Life Vest Snake” respectively, each work uses items the artist found at the site of both crises: children’s backpacks collected from the rubble of the earthquake and life jackets left on shores of Lesbos by Syrian refugees. Ai painted over and repurposed these objects into the two 55 feet (roughly 16.8 meters) long serpents, which, to Ai, symbolize the complexity and unpredictability of crises both natural and man-made.

As of 2021, Ai has been living in Portugal and is still working in his new home in Montemor-o-Novo, a small countryside town near the Southwest Coast. His new work continues to draw inspiration from his Chinese roots as he collaborates with local ceramicists and porcelain makers to produce new art.

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Tanaya Vohra

Tanaya is an undergraduate student pursuing a major in Public Health at the University of Chicago. She's lived in Asia, Europe and North America and wants to share her love of travel and exploring new cultures through her writing.

The Peace Walls in Belfast and the Politics of Separation

Today, there are efforts to take down the walls that have separated the loyalist and nationalist neighborhoods in Belfast for over fifty years. 

Murals along the Falls Road side of Belfast’s Peace Walls. Megan Coughlin. CC BY-ND 2.0

The Walls are not only a reminder of a violent history, but a medium for artistic expression and international solidarity.

The origin of the partition that defines Ireland today can be traced back to the early 1920’s, when a successful Irish rebellion from British rule led the island to be broken up into two countries. The Irish Free State gained independence from the United Kingdom, while Northern Ireland remained part of the British state. Irish Nationalists, who generally support an island-wide Irish republic, are predominantly Catholic, while British Loyalists/Unionists are mostly Protestants.

The 1960s saw the beginning of ‘the Troubles’ in Northern Ireland. The Troubles refer to the period of violence, riots, and unconventional warfare between the British state and Loyalists paramilitaries, who believed Northern Ireland should remain part of the United Kingdom, and Irish Nationalist paramilitaries, who wanted Northern Ireland to join the rest of the island as a United Ireland. 

It was within the context of the Troubles that the first Northern Ireland peace walls were built in 1969, after days of intense rioting in Belfast and Derry/Londonderry. Originally constructed as a temporary structure to ensure peace between the two sides, the walls have hardened into semi-permanent lines that continue to divide the cities today. 

The signing of the Good Friday Agreement in 1998, marked the end of the Troubles. The agreement set up an autonomous legislature and government that could legally only be governed by a coalition of  Unionist and Nationalist political parties. Furthermore, while still recognizing Northern Ireland as a part of the U.K., the agreement also acknowledged the possibility for the area to one day unite with the rest of Ireland should a majority vote to do so.

The Good Friday Agreement was a pivotal marker of peace and cooperation between the two sides. However today, some 25 years after its signing, peace walls continue to divide Catholic and Protestant neighborhoods in Belfast. 

One of the largest of these peace walls runs along the Falls and Shankill Roads in West Belfast and divides two major Catholic and Protestant neighborhoods. The wall is interrupted by stretches of metal gates, several of which still maintain a curfew, including the Townsend Street gates which closes every weekday night and throughout the weekend. The enduring curfew speaks to the continued tensions between Belfast’s Catholic and Protestant communities, which have been reinforced by the 2016 Brexit referendum. 

But today, the walls are not just borders of separation. They’re also a canvas of artistic expression. 

The Shankill and Loyalist side of the divide depicts memorializations of those killed by the Irish Republican Army (IRA) and tributes to the Ulster Defense Association, a Loyalist paramilitary organization founded in 1971. A portrait of King WIlliam, known as William of Orange, looks out upon the neighborhood where Union Jacks decorate the streets.

In contrast, the Falls Road and Irish nationalist side of the divide touts the orange and green Irish tricolor. Here, murals celebrate national pride with depictions of Gaelic sports and memorializations to national heroes, including a large portrait painted on the side of Sinn Fein Political Party Press Office of Bobby Sands, a popular IRA leader and elected MP who died of hunger strike while imprisoned. 

It is also on the Falls side that one can see the famous International Wall, depicting images of global civil rights leaders the likes of which include Fredrick Douglass, Nelson Mandela, Harriet Tubaman, the Rev. Martin Luther King Jr., and Bob Marley. In this neighborhood, it is common to Palestinian flags hanging in people’s windows, aligning a mission to free Irish land from British rule with that of occupied territory in Palestine. A mural on the International Wall depicts hands clasped between prison bars, one of which is draped in an Irish national flag, the other in a Palestinian flag. 

Murals along the peace wall that runs through Shankill and Falls Road. Mike McBride. CC BY-NC 2.0

In 2013, a project called Together: Building a United Community was launched by the Northern Ireland Executive. The project called for the removal of all walls in Northern Ireland by 2023, but progress has been slow and in January of 2023, about 60 walls still remain. In a 2015 survey by Ulster University on public attitudes towards the peace walls, about 35% of respondents wanted the peace walls  ‘come down some time in the future’ with 40% of Catholics and 25% of Protestants surveyed sharing this position, while 44% of Protestants and 23% of Catholics ‘would like things left the way they are now’.

While the future of the peace walls remains uncertain, their presence serves as a striking visual reminder of division within a city that is increasingly embracing a global economy and multiculturalism, the very extent of which is exemplified by the international calls for peace and solidarity in the artwork that lines the divided city. 

To Get Involved

The Social Change Initiative (SCI) is working to support peacebuilding and dialogue between Nationalists and Unionists. Based in Northern Ireland, SCI partners with local activists and publishes articles and reports that detail the strategies and reflections of those working directly within divided communities. SCI also connects local leaders to a global community of human rights activists through fellowships and mentoring programs, in an effort to create an international network through which individuals can share communication and advocacy tactics as well as strategies for peacebuilding and conflict disruption.

How To Visit

One of the most popular ways for travelers’ to experience and learn about Belfast’s peace walls is through Black Taxi Cab tours. 

The tours began in the 1970s and are recognized for their effort to provide a balanced and unbiased history of Belfast. The black taxis were first employed as a kind of bus service in the midst of the Troubles in order to transport working class people from their neighborhoods to the city center. The tours are notably co-run by Catholics and Protestants, allowing visitors to hear perspectives from both communities as they travel across the Falls and Shankill roads.

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Jessica Blatt

Jessica Blatt graduated from Barnard College with a degree in English. Along with journalism, she is passionate about creative writing and storytelling that inspires readers to engage with the world around them. She hopes to share her love for travel and learning about new cultures through her work.