Experience a beautiful archipelago off the coast of Washington State that’s bursting with natural splendor
The coast of Orca Island in the San Juan Islands. Bureau of Land Management, CC0
Only an hour and a half by ferry from the coast of Seattle, Washington, the San Juan Islands are an incredible destination for any wilderness-seeking wanderers. After only a week, I’d seen dozens of whales and porpoises, and explored miles of the main island both on foot and by bicycle. My friends and I still consider this one of our greatest trips! From whale watching and sea kayaking to hiking and ziplining, these islands provide the perfect “surf-and-turf” nature experience.
The small archipelago is by far most famous for its local orca pods. A rarity in American waters, the Northwest's Gulf of Georgia boasts three local pods that feed primarily on salmon, as well as a traveling pod from Canada that feeds on the local harbor seal population. In addition to the orcas, a wide variety of marine mammals can be spotted both along the shoreline and out in the heart of the Gulf. On our first whale watching tour from the main island my companions and I saw humpback whales, Steller sea lions and a variety of dolphins and porpoises keeping pace with our boat.
The archipelago is made up of four main bodies of land: San Juan, Orcas Island, Lopez Island, and Shaw Island. The first, San Juan, is the largest and most visited island in the chain, and is home to the beautiful town of Friday Harbor. In addition to being the ferry’s main landing point and the heart of the archipelago itself, Friday Harbor is the main hotspot for whale watching tours. The guides provide an excellent experience; ours taught us all about the native marine animals and the history of the islands. We spent most of our time on San Juan during our tour, hiking across the hilly terrain to the south for some amazing views.
A view of Friday Harbor from the balcony of a local restaurant. Image from author. Ryan Livingston
But perhaps the best thing about Friday Harbor is the locals. In particular a harbor seal named Popeye, who likes to spend her mornings floating outside of the dockside restaurants in the hopes of getting some handouts. She’s very friendly, and has become something of a mascot for Friday Harbor!
San Juan is also the site of Lime Kiln Point State Park, which is lauded as one of the best whale watching sites in the world. The park is also a hangout spot for the river otter population around the islands. Lime Kiln Point is also an excellent hiking spot, with a trail leading up to a vintage lighthouse that is the park’s main landmark. This lighthouse provides an excellent view of most of the Gulf.
On the latter half of our trip, my friends and I paid Orcas Island a visit. Known for its rich artistic history, it is known locally as the “Gem of the San Juans.” The coastal towns include a variety of sailing, fishing and whale watching charters, as well as a few sea kayaking companies that give tours of the island and its history. With their friendly and informative tour guides, you’ll wind up learning about everything from jellyfish to the islands’ border disputes back in 1949! Orcas Island is also the site of Moran State Park, an excellent site for hiking, biking, camping and boating on the small lakes situated across the landscape.
The other two islands are well worth visiting, although I wound up spending all of my time on San Juan and Orcas. Lopez Island is by far the least hilly of the four, and as a result has been adapted into a fantastic biking location. With trails all over the island and tons of rental shops to choose from, Lopez is the biker’s dream. In addition, for any eco-minded travelers, a visit to Lopez Island can include a variety of volunteer opportunities, including trash pickup, injured and beached animal rescue training and more.
Finally, we have Shaw, the smallest island in the archipelago and home to the one-of-a-kind Our Lady of the Rock Monastery. Built on living in the same traditional lifestyle as its founders, the nuns tend a sprawling farm that, like the monastery itself, is open to the public. Although it does offer worship sessions, the architecture and rich history are reason enough to visit.
Whether you’re looking for an escape into nature or searching for the elusive mammals of the sea, the San Juan Islands are a uniquely beautiful experience. The best times to visit are between May and August, when the salmon runs are at their highest and orca and porpoise sightings are the most common. Whale watching tours can be booked out of any of the four islands at places like San Juan Excursions, and hotel bookings can range from $157 to around $300 a night in the heart of Friday Harbor. Camping in the various state parks is also an excellent option.
Ryan Livingston
Ryan is a senior at The College of New Jersey, majoring in English and minoring in marketing. Since a young age, Ryan has been passionate about human rights and environmental action and uses his writing to educate wherever he can. He hopes to pursue a career in professional writing and spread his message even further.