Zambian Women Fight Poaching with Jewelry

Mulberry Mongoose, a Zambian woman-run jewelry shop, turns poaching snares into art. 

South Luangwa National Park. Thomas Fuhrmann. CC BY-SA 4.0

Located just 15 minutes from the South Luangwa National Park's main gate in Zambia, Mulberry Mongoose is not just a jewelry brand; it's a movement of conservation, empowerment and creativity. The enterprise's business model is to transform poachers' snare wires into intricate jewelry. The workshop team is composed of 80% women and 100% locals born and raised in Zambia, and has become famous for its innovative methods of production. So far the company has raised over $150,000 for conservation. The story of Mulberry Mongoose is a testament to the power of turning adversity into art, with the motto of "creating beauty from brutality." 

Original Snare Necklace. Courtesy of Mulberry Mongoose.

The shop was founded by the English entrepreneur Kate Wilson, who married Dave, a native of Zimbabwe. Before meeting her husband she had never stepped foot on African soil, but given his passion for the African bush, she ended up moving with him to South Luangwa. It was there that she realized her perspective of Africa was fundamentally flawed. Inspired by her own Zambia journey of self-actualization and realization, she decided to set up an ethical craft business that reflected her core values of growth, discipline, care, transparency and joyful bravery. 

South Luangwa National Park is famed for its wildlife, having one of the highest concentrations of leopards in Africa. Like many parks in Africa, it struggles to protect its wildlife against poachers. Snare traps are an especially brutal method of hunting used by illegal wildlife poachers. They are the biggest killer of iconic wildlife in Southern Africa, killing tens of thousands of animals each year, including elephants, lions, leopards, giraffes and wild dogs. The traps are set by areas of high wildlife movement such as watering holes to catch antelopes, which are consumed by locals mainly for purpose of selling it on the illegal bushmeat trade. Unfortunately, snare traps are dreadful tools of destruction, they also do not discriminate, and often other animals can trigger the snare, leading to a slow and painful death by strangulation, dislocation, or near decapitation Without veterinary intervention, the animals are certain to perish.

Snare wire traps are collected by rangers and stored in containers across the continent. Mulberry Mongoose has been granted special permission to access the containers. Its team carefully extracts, untangles and cuts the wire into strips, which are then transformed into the materials they use to create their signature jewelry, a process requiring incredible strength and precision. This transformation not only prevents the wires from causing further harm but also turns them into symbols of hope and resilience.

Snare Chain Necklace with White Pearl. Courtesy of Mulberry Mongoose. 

The team worked with a Mfuwe carpenter to train the shop’s female artisans to work with the difficult materials. Grace Mwanza, one of the artisans, told National Geographic how the skills she learned at her job enabled her to build her own house. “The process requires incredible strength,” said Kate Wilson, the business’ founder. “We course through nearly 5 steel drill bits per week!” 

The project supports conservation efforts as well as local communities. Mulberry Mongoose gift bags are made with colorful chitenge material bought from businesswomen and turned into beautiful gift pouches by Mfuwe tailors. Its artisans use unique materials bought from local entrepreneurs, such as hand-carved wooden beads, seeds, vintage coins, and farmers’ feathers to ensure that their designs are authentically African and benefit their rural communities, while also showcasing the unique beauty of the African bush and the dexterity and ingenuity of African artisans. A portion of the proceeds from their jewelry sales go to NGOs dedicated to protecting wildlife and supporting rangers. The shop has removed 27,000 snare traps from circulation and transformed over 164,000 feet of snare wire into works of art.

Rhino Conservation Snare & Vegetable Ivory Bracelet. Courtesy of Mulberry Mongoose.

The Mulberry Mongoose team is renowned for its passion and hospitality. You can drop into their "Shop Less Ordinary: between 7:00 a.m. and 4:30 p.m. any day of the week. Visitors will receive a warm welcome and a free guided tour of the team's purpose-built workshop and learn their story of conservation, female empowerment, rural African employment and ingenuity. You can even try coiling or hammering poachers’ snare wire yourself! Their shop is a beautiful space with an extraordinary variety of designs, worn by the likes of supermodel Doutzen Kroes, businessman Richard Branson, former president Bill Clinton, and former Secretary of State Hillary Clinton.

“On a typical day, a package will leave our shop for the Mfuwe airport, where the truck drives by a watering hole for hippopotamus and a natural basin where giraffes and elephants meet,” said Wilson. “It may take a bit longer to receive our jewelry, but I want to take people on the journey of why we do what we do—to conserve the species of this pristine wilderness we call home.”

TO GET INVOLVED

ulberry Mongoose: Visit the website to learn more about Mulberry Mongoose’s team and story and to shop online. If you are lucky enough to travel to the South Luangwa you can visit the shop itself to learn firsthand from the passionate members. Their site also includes an online shop, with the proceeds benefiting the local community and conservation efforts. They ship orders from their remote workshop anywhere in the world in under 14 days. They also stock ethical retail businesses including conservation shops and safari boutiques. Last you can follow them on Instagram or Facebook as Mulberry Mongoose.

Conservation South Luangwa: This organization’s mission is to work with community and conservation partners in the protection of the wildlife and habitats of the South Luangwa ecosystem. Their goal is to ensure the long-term survival of wildlife and habitats in South Luangwa under the custodianship of the Zambian people. Their site includes information about getting involved and donating.

Zambian Carnivore Programme: This organization seeks to conserve Zambia’s large carnivores and the ecosystems they reside in through science, action and strengthening local leadership. ZCP hopes to create restored and thriving ecosystems that are collaboratively conserved by local communities, scientists and policy-makers through evidence-based approaches. Its website includes information about getting involved and donating.

Conservation Lower Zambezi: Conservation Lower Zambezi is an NGO committed to the conservation of wildlife and the environment in Lower Zambezi, Zambia, and was founded in 1994 to provide support to the Department of National Parks and Wildlife and help it fulfill its mandate to mitigate threats to wildlife from poaching in the region. The organization's website has information about getting involved and donating.

Rebecca Pitcairn

Rebecca studies Italian Language and Literature, Classical Civilizations, and English Writing at the University of Pittsburgh. She hopes to one day attain a PhD in Classical Archeology. She is passionate about feminism and climate justice. She enjoys reading, playing the lyre, and longboarding in her free time. 

Whale Watching in Washington State in the San Juan Islands

Experience a beautiful archipelago off the coast of Washington State that’s bursting with natural splendor

The coast of Orca Island in the San Juan Islands. Bureau of Land Management, CC0

Only an hour and a half by ferry from the coast of Seattle, Washington, the San Juan Islands are an incredible destination for any wilderness-seeking wanderers. After only a week, I’d seen dozens of whales and porpoises, and explored miles of the main island both on foot and by bicycle. My friends and I still consider this one of our greatest trips! From whale watching and sea kayaking to hiking and ziplining, these islands provide the perfect “surf-and-turf” nature experience.

The small archipelago is by far most famous for its local orca pods. A rarity in American waters, the Northwest's Gulf of Georgia boasts three local pods that feed primarily on salmon, as well as a traveling pod from Canada that feeds on the local harbor seal population. In addition to the orcas, a wide variety of marine mammals can be spotted both along the shoreline and out in the heart of the Gulf. On our first whale watching tour from the main island my companions and I saw humpback whales, Steller sea lions and a variety of dolphins and porpoises keeping pace with our boat.

The archipelago is made up of four main bodies of land: San Juan, Orcas Island, Lopez Island, and Shaw Island. The first, San Juan, is the largest and most visited island in the chain, and is home to the beautiful town of Friday Harbor. In addition to being the ferry’s main landing point and the heart of the archipelago itself, Friday Harbor is the main hotspot for whale watching tours. The guides provide an excellent experience; ours taught us all about the native marine animals and the history of the islands. We spent most of our time on San Juan during our tour, hiking across the hilly terrain to the south for some amazing views.

A view of Friday Harbor from the balcony of a local restaurant. Image from author. Ryan Livingston

But perhaps the best thing about Friday Harbor is the locals. In particular a harbor seal named Popeye, who likes to spend her mornings floating outside of the dockside restaurants in the hopes of getting some handouts. She’s very friendly, and has become something of a mascot for Friday Harbor!

San Juan is also the site of Lime Kiln Point State Park, which is lauded as one of the best whale watching sites in the world. The park is also a hangout spot for the river otter population around the islands. Lime Kiln Point is also an excellent hiking spot, with a trail leading up to a vintage lighthouse that is the park’s main landmark. This lighthouse provides an excellent view of most of the Gulf.

On the latter half of our trip, my friends and I paid Orcas Island a visit. Known for its rich artistic history, it is known locally as the “Gem of the San Juans.” The coastal towns include a variety of sailing, fishing and whale watching charters, as well as a few sea kayaking companies that give tours of the island and its history. With their friendly and informative tour guides, you’ll wind up learning about everything from jellyfish to the islands’ border disputes back in 1949! Orcas Island is also the site of Moran State Park, an excellent site for hiking, biking, camping and boating on the small lakes situated across the landscape.

The other two islands are well worth visiting, although I wound up spending all of my time on San Juan and Orcas. Lopez Island is by far the least hilly of the four, and as a result has been adapted into a fantastic biking location. With trails all over the island and tons of rental shops to choose from, Lopez is the biker’s dream. In addition, for any eco-minded travelers, a visit to Lopez Island can include a variety of volunteer opportunities, including trash pickup, injured and beached animal rescue training and more.

Finally, we have Shaw, the smallest island in the archipelago and home to the one-of-a-kind Our Lady of the Rock Monastery. Built on living in the same traditional lifestyle as its founders, the nuns tend a sprawling farm that, like the monastery itself, is open to the public. Although it does offer worship sessions, the architecture and rich history are reason enough to visit.

Whether you’re looking for an escape into nature or searching for the elusive mammals of the sea, the San Juan Islands are a uniquely beautiful experience. The best times to visit are between May and August, when the salmon runs are at their highest and orca and porpoise sightings are the most common. Whale watching tours can be booked out of any of the four islands at places like San Juan Excursions, and hotel bookings can range from $157 to around $300 a night in the heart of Friday Harbor. Camping in the various state parks is also an excellent option.

Ryan Livingston

Ryan is a senior at The College of New Jersey, majoring in English and minoring in marketing. Since a young age, Ryan has been passionate about human rights and environmental action and uses his writing to educate wherever he can. He hopes to pursue a career in professional writing and spread his message even further.

The Mountain Gorillas of Bwindi Impenetrable Forest

Photographer Laura Grier adventures among gorillas and lions in Rwanda and Uganda.

There are few places in the world where wild animals are unafraid of humans, and you can view them in their own majesty in the wild without cages, tourist vehicles or controlling their environment. The Gorillas of the Bwindi Impenetrable forest of Rwanda and Uganda are on the top of my list as a place where I have been able to come face-to-face with animals and spend the day with them in their environment. Those moments have been life-changing for me.

I led a group of six women and one man to Rwanda and Uganda on a philanthropic adventure trip; all of the locals affectionately called our one token male “Silverback” since the male Silverbacks gorillas always travel with a harem of female gorillas in the forest.

We started our trip in Kigali, the capital of Rwanda, and had a meal in “Heaven”, the restaurant that was made famous by the book “A Thousand Hills to Heaven,” a memoir about one couple and how they healed a Rwandan village, raised a family near the old killing fields, and built this restaurant named Heaven. The authors, Josh and Alissa, newlyweds at the time, were at a party and received a challenge: “Do you think you can really make a difference here in Africa?”

This memoir inspired me to lead this trip and to see if through adventure, we too could all give back and make a positive impact here in Rwanda and Uganda. So it was only fitting to begin our journey right in this spot.

Our first stop was visiting the female artisan weaving collective, Handspun Hope, who are mostly widowed women from the horrific genocide that happened here in the 1990s. Many men were murdered in a two-week period of time, leaving women and children orphaned and widowed and with no way to provide for themselves. This non-profit created a gorgeous, safe oasis for these women to weave and gather together and purchasing these goods helps them to support their families and communities and help lift them out of poverty.

Due to the genocide, Rwanda has received a lot of aid and tourism help from around the world. We noticed a marked difference in infrastructure and wealth between Rwanda and Uganda; Uganda is by far the poorer neighbor. So we decided to stay in an eco-lodge on the Ugandan side of the Bwindi Impenetrable Forest to help support the country’s tourism, and also receive the benefits of the Ugandan side’s lower price tag. 

We spent two days hiking out to see the gorillas. Each morning, groups of trackers leave at sunrise to track the various families of gorillas in the forest, and then a couple hours later we leave in groups to follow their trail and hopefully intercept the great apes. Many of these trackers were once poachers, but now tourist dollars flowing in make the gorillas worth more alive than dead—many poachers have switched to the “good side,” helping to protect these giant creatures.

What I loved was learning about these gorilla groups and how they live. They all have names and very human personalities and soap opera-esque drama. They make nests every night on the ground to sleep in, and often you will find them hanging out in the trees above you. When you do finally spot a group of gorillas, they seem very nonchalant about your presence. It doesn’t matter how many hours it took hiking through thick jungle to find them, once discovered the clock starts ticking and you get only an hour to hang out with them before the rules dictate that you have to leave. You can always spend the next day hiking out to find them again, but you will never know how long that will take. They are always on the move.

Nothing really can describe sitting next to a gorilla in the wild and staring into their faces. They are gentle yet powerful creatures, and more akin to us than different. Their forests are  protected through tourism dollars, one of the few times I feel like tourism is truly benefiting wildlife, since the Ugandans and Rwandans have a deep respect for these gorilla groups. 

After two days of trekking through thick jungles in the cool, misty mountains looking for gorillas, we drove down into the arid savannas of Uganda to visit the Hanging Lions of Queen Elizabeth National Park. This is the only place on Earth where you will find prides of Ishasha lions just hanging out in the high limbs of Sycamore Fig trees. This is a very rare sight, because this unique group of only about 35 lions is endangered due to threats of human-wildlife conflict and retaliatory snaring and poisoning. We drove around in safari vehicles and witnessed gorgeous wildlife, including herds of elephants and hippos and, of course, very full, very happy lions in the trees.

Laura Grier

Laura is a dynamic Adventure Photographer, Photo Anthropologist, Travel Writer, and Social Impact Entrepreneur. With a remarkable journey spanning 87 countries and 7 continents, Laura's lens captures both the breathtaking landscapes and the intricate stories of the people she encounters. As a National Geographic artisan catalog photographer, Huffington Post columnist, and founder of Andeana Hats, Laura fuses her love for photography, travel, and social change, leaving an impact on the world.

5 Cryptids for Well-Traveled Lovers of the Macabre

Cryptids are creatures that have developed cult followings despite their dubious relationship with reality.

Helmingham bestiary and mythical creatures. Rawpixel. CC0.

Cryptids are creatures or animals that cryptozoologists believe exist in the wild, but whose present existence is unsubstantiated by science. Tales of such creatures can be found all around the world and are often the subject of modern folklore. Whether you or not you are a believer, cryptids are a point of fascination for anyone who relishes in the macabre.

1. The Mothman

Point Pleasant, West Virginia

The illusive mothman creature, with red eyes, wings, and a humanoid body. Steve Baxter. CC0.

In the small town of Point Pleasant, West Virginia, it is said that the infamous Mothman creature has haunted the woods and terrorized residents since 1966. First sighted by teenagers driving on State Route 62 near an abandoned National Guard Armory building, the creature is described as being six to seven feet tall with red eyes and wings like a moth. Since its first appearance in the public’s imagination the Mothman has reached mythical status, with statues, restaurants and other tourist attractions erected in its honor.

2. Chupacabra

Mexico and Southwestern United States

The chupacabra is said to feed on human and animal blood. Michael Snipes. CC-BY-SA 2.0

Chupacabras are said to be vampire-like creatures that are often blamed for attacks on goats, sheep and other domesticated animals. According to legend, the creature stands upright and resembles a large reptilian kangaroo. First reported in 1995, many believe the appearance of the Chupacabra in the collective imagination of Mexico and the Southwestern United states was highly influenced by the horror movies of the time. That being said, the Chupacabra continues to haunt the hearts and minds of the Great Basin.

3. J’ba FoFi

Democratic Republic of the Congo

The J’ba FoFi is a giant spider said to live in the Congolese jungle. Flickr. CC0.

The J'ba Fofi, also known as the Congolese Giant Spiders, are a type of large arachnid cryptid said to inhabit the forests of the Congo, hypothesized to be a new species of spider. The J’ba FoFi is said to hunt vertebrates rather than the insects its kind normally consume. The creature creates a network of webbing that operates as trip wires for approaching prey. They are said to burrow under trees and have large, yellow eggs. The existence of this giant spider, whether it is a yet-undiscovered species or simply a myth, remains unclear.

4. Loch Ness Monster

Scotland

Sighting of the Loch Ness monster. Ad Meskens. CC-BY-SA 3.0

One of the most famous cryptids in the world, the Loch Ness Monster is a creature said to inhabit Loch Ness in the Scottish Highlands. It is described as a large animal, with a long neck and often several humps protruding out of the water. Hypothesized to be the last descendant of an extinct species, potentially dating back to the time of dinosaurs, the existence of the Loch Ness Monster has never been confirmed. “Nessie,” as the behemoth is affectionately known to fans, has been the subject of sustained curiosity and numerous hoaxes, capturing the public’s attention despite the creature’s dubious link to reality.

5. Hibagon

Japan

The Hibagon is a Japanese, humanoid cryptid. John Doherty. CC0.

The Hibagon is a Japanese Bigfoot-like creature said to live on Mount Hiba, Hiroshima Prefecture. First sighted in 1970, the Hibagon is described as an ape-like being that walks upright and is approximately six feet tall. There have been many more sightings of the Hibagon since the ‘70s, causing a Hibagon craze that has become a fixture of the local tourist industry. The existence of such a creature remains unconfirmed.

Sophia Larson

Sophia Larson is a recent graduate of Barnard College at Columbia University. She previously worked as the Assistant Editor on the 2021 book Young People of the Pandemic. She has also participated as a writer and editor at several student news publications, including “The UMass Daily Collegian” and “Bwog, Columbia Student News.”

Manaus: Capital of the Amazon

My visit to the Amazon’s largest and most contradictory city.

City of Manaus. Dennis Jarvis. CC BY-SA 2.0

My first guide in Manaus explained that when people think about a city in the middle of the Amazon, they expect the city to be wild and see snakes crossing the streets. The reality of the Amazon’s largest city, located in Brazil’s Amazonas Province, is completely different. This past May I spent one of the most memorable weeks of my life in this province. During that time, I did go deep into the Amazon, where I saw a tree Boa, a large snake. But, I also visited a beautiful pink opera house, a fish market, antique bookstores, fancy restaurants, the Presidente Figueiredo Waterfalls, and even the Ponta Negra Beach, which was lined with tall buildings that seemed to be hotels, just like any beach town you’d find in the US.

Me, in the Amazon outside of Manaus. Jeremy Giles

This city of over two million people borders both the Rio Negro and the Amazon River, and is the access point to reach many communities deeper within the Amazon jungle. It is also one of Brazil’s largest industrial centers, including businesses that have nothing to do with the rainforest it borders. In my experience, Manaus is a city unlike any other, and thrives off defying expectations.

The History

Manáos, Eduardo Ribeiro Avenue in 1909. National Library of Brazil, public domain.

Manaus was originally founded in 1669 as a Portuguese fort. By 1832, the fort grew into a town, and received its modern name, Manaus, meaning “mother of the gods,” from the indigenous Manaós tribe. Only 16 years later Manaus expanded into a city. Two years after that, it was officially declared the capital of the Amazonas province.

After the invention of cars in the late 1800s, Manaus became the center of the rubber boom due to the almost complete South American monopoly of rubber trees, which are native to the Amazon basin. This completely changed the city, as it became viewed as the gateway to the Amazon, and became home to many incredibly wealthy rubber barons. These ridiculously rich families had more money than things to spend it on, and began to focus on architecture, shipping materials all the way from Europe to build huge beautiful masterpieces, many of which still exist today.

By the early to mid 1900s the rubber boom had almost completely left Brazil, being replaced by rubber trees brought to Southeast Asia. This spelled financial ruin for Manaus, which sank into desperation. This poverty continued until 1967, when Manaus was named a duty free zone, making it cheap for companies to move there. This allowed Manaus to grow into the economic hub it is today, currently being a Brazilian access point for over 600 global companies.

The Amazonas Theatre

Amazon Theatre in Manaus. Rafael Zart. CC BY 2.0.

The Amazonas Theatre opened in 1897, carrying with it Manaus’ nickname “the Paris of the Tropics.” The opera theater was built almost entirely using materials imported from Europe, topped with a beautiful dome of Brazil’s flag.

At the time of its opening, the opera theater was in many ways a sign of all that was wrong in Manaus. It was built for Manaus’ uber-wealthy, using the money they made by exploiting the local population to harvest the rubber they sold abroad. Moreover, even the few who could enter the opera house valued the status it brought them more than the opera itself. The most expensive seats in the opera house were those that were the most visible to the public. Ironically, these spots actually had the worst view of the stage itself. 

Today, the opera house, which remains a top opera house in the world, has come a long way from its imperialistic origins. Most performances at the theater are free, and those that aren’t are very affordable. The performances feature both local artists and acts from around the world. Moreover, to encourage all to join, a large screen is often set up in the plaza in front of the opera house, allowing as many people to see the performances as possible.

The Ports

Manaus market from the river. archer10 (Dennis). CC BY-SA 2.0.

In many ways, the center of Manaus is its ports. Manaus is bordered by both the Rio Negro and the Amazon River, allowing for a large number of ships and ferries, both for tourists and locals. These boats can take you deeper into the Amazon or out of it entirely, allowing ocean freight ships to transport goods directly to Manaus.

In addition, much of Manaus’ culture and nature revolves around the ports. A little over a half hour by boat from Manaus’ ports is the meeting of the waters, a line where the Rio Negro meets the Amazon River. This line is clearly visible with the water looking different and being a clearly different temperature on either side of the line. 

On land, about a five minute walk from Manaus’ largest port is an amazing market “Mercado Municipal” that, every morning, is filled with different fresh fish, including some of the biggest fish in the world. My personal favorite of these huge fish is Tambaqui, a cousin of the Piranha and one of the most delicious meals I’ve ever had. The fish is so big that its ribs are visible and alone big enough for a meal. In fact, I’d go even further to say that, to me at least, the ribs are the best part.

Amazon Rainforest

The Amazon Rainforest, a few hours from Manaus. Jeremy Giles

While Manaus itself is a big city, much of the land around it is still forested and filled with natural wonders. If you go an hour or two downstream on the Rio Negro, you will be greeted by intensely green trees on both sides which, in the right conditions, are perfectly reflected by the black water below you. In the wet season this water will rise several meters, causing many of the trees to jut out of the water itself. Just to note, climate change has caused the water to rise more now than in the past, however, the water rising multiple meters is a natural phenomenon and one that actually helps the trees survive.

When you’re surrounded by the trees you may start to be greeted by animals almost immediately. Howler and spider monkeys can be seen leaping from tree to tree, sometimes carrying their babies, and boas can be found curled up on branches. The water itself is dotted with caiman and different kinds of fish. The lucky will get to see pink river dolphins breaching the water’s surface.

A waterfall at El Presidente Figueiredo. Jeremy Giles

There is plenty to see around Manaus and in Manaus on land as well. Most notably, about an hour and a half drive from Manaus are the Presidente Figueiredo waterfalls. These waterfalls are all stunning to look it, with fast moving water from the Rio Negro. However, they do vary in size. The first waterfall I was unable to approach because it was too big. The second one was small enough that I was able to climb behind it.

The Rio Negro, or Black River in English, gets its color from the decaying vegetation that falls into it. Beyond giving the river a wondrous dark hue, this decay causes the river to be relatively acidic. While it is perfectly okay for humans to swim in the water, the same cannot be said for mosquitoes, who almost completely avoid the river. This is amazing for Manaus, which borders the Rio Negro, as the city has relatively few mosquitos despite being in the middle of the Amazon.

The Technology Industry

President Lula visiting a motorcycle factory in Manaus. Brasil em Mapas Brazilmaps. CC BY 2.0

While much of Manaus’ economy does revolve around the Amazon, the tech industry is actually one of the city’s largest. Brazil’s largest research and development Institute, the Sidia Institute of Science and Technology, is based in Manaus. Moreover, Manaus is known for its extensive motorcycle industry, producing over 1.4 million motorcycles in 2022.

Manauara Shopping Center. Naldo Arruda. CC BY 2.0

I’ve spent the past few days trying to think of what, out of everything I saw, best represents Manaus. I believe I’ve found it, but, like everything else with the city, it’s not what you would expect. 

The Manauara Shopping mall is a huge and beautiful structure, with big glass windows lining the outside, seeming to connect the building to the world beyond its walls. It has more than 200 stores, which range from those selling wooden crafts and acai from the Amazon to big brands on national and international levels. The moment I remember most is when, after exploring the first three levels of the mall, my family decided to visit the basement food court. Going down the escalator, we saw the same glass windows from the front of the building, except this time, they were facing inwards. We walked towards a door under the hulking glass and through it outside into open space. I looked up and spiraling branches blanketed with green leaves towered above me, almost blocking my view of the night sky. I breathed in the air deeply, letting go of a tension I didn’t know I was holding. Looking back, in this moment, in a rainforest in the middle of a mall, I truly experienced Manaus most.

Jeremy Giles

Jeremy is a Writing Seminars and International Studies major at Johns Hopkins University. He is an avid writer and the Co-Founder of Writers’ Warehouse, Johns Hopkins’ first creative writing group. He is an advocate for Indigenous rights, and studies how Indigenous philosophies can be used to help prevent climate change. Using his writing, he hopes to bring attention to underrepresented voices in today’s world.

How Ancient Ghanaian Culture Shapes Sea Turtle Conservation

Ghana’s ancient admiration for sea turtles has inspired a modern conservation movement to protect these ecologically vital animals.

Sea turtle swimming in the ocean. Belle Co. CC0. 

Ghana is a vibrant country located in West Africa, bordered by Côte D’Ivoire, Burkina Faso and Togo. It is known for its rich culture, stunning beaches, and diverse wildlife. As a traveler, you would likely find Ghana to be a lively country, full of colorful markets, bustling streets, and a unique mix of traditional and modern cultures. Perhaps most importantly, Ghana is known for the warmth and hospitality of its people, where you’ll be met with a welcoming and friendly nature.

Ghanaian people are also very spiritually attuned, whether it’s native African spirituality or more newly introduced Christianity. They are very fond of their cultural and religious traditions, one of which is long-standing is their long standing connection to sea turtles. 

Sea turtles have been a part of Ghana’s culture and folklore for centuries, with oral literature depicting these animals as protectors, helpers or even guides. Moreover, the reptiles are integral to Ghana’s ecology, as they help to maintain coral reefs and seagrass, which in turn ensure continued biodiversity. 

It wasn’t always this way, as with Urbanization came poverty, and with poverty came poachers. These poachers saw the Sea turtles not as protectors but as a source of profit. Now, having returned to their traditions, Ghanaians are more determined than ever to protect and conserve these animals in hopes to prevent their extinction. 

All over Ghana, there are different recorded myths and stories that show the ancient connection between Ghana and sea turtles. 

The Ga and Akan ethnic groups of central Ghana have a story about their ancestors and how they once were caught in a storm while fishing, in which their boat had sunk. It is said that as the men were struggling in the choppy waters, the sea turtles arrived and helped them get back to shore.

The Dange people of eastern Ghana have a story in which their ancestors were trying to retreat after Ashanti armies had them cornered against the Volta River. They recount how both the crocodiles and the sea turtles helped them safely cross the river, by having the crocodiles form a bridge, while sea turtles helped heal the injured and guided the elderly across. It is said that to this day, both animals are fully protected in this region of Ghana.

Sea turtles in Ghana have been protected by law since 1971. Even then, there are still poachers, so just that isn’t enough. The Ghana Turtle Research Project (GTRP) has been around for more than 10 years. The organization encourages community members to participate in sea turtle conservation and to embrace their culture and traditions. By doing so they were able to get more than fifty community members to form a volunteer network. They also helped to tag and identify where turtle species reside most often in order to make sure that fishermen avoid those areas and to ensure they are safe-guarded.

Additionally, the Environmental Justice Foundation (EJF) is an organization that was focused on protecting nesting sites in the fishing communities of central Ghana. In 2019, during the first turtle nesting season (of that year), they were successfully able to deter poachers from the Goma Fetteh region.

As more and more Ghanaian communities return to their traditional and spiritual beliefs, more people are caring about the sea turtles. It’s due to the oral traditions in Ghanaian culture that these conservation efforts were possible, as they make people care more about these creatures of the sea. They helped form an everlasting connection between the sea turtle and man.

Kadija Diallo

Kadija is a student at Georgia State in Atlanta, Ga. She is a creative spirit who loves traveling and seeing new places. She also enjoys using her love for writing/storytelling to make an impact on the world. One day she hopes to make new connections and share stories as she travels to every continent. 

South Africa’s Town of Penguins

The small port town Simon’s Town is full of amazing marine life, most notably the African Penguin colony that is  just outside the town center.

Jackass Penguins Simon’s Town SA. Donnie Ray. CC BY-NC-ND 2.0

Located on the southwestern coast of South Africa, Simon’s Town is a small village surrounded by both the ocean  and the mountains. Being so close to Cape Town, Simon’s Town is a beautiful, small port city. 

Simon’s Town is on a part of the Cape Peninsula known as False Bay. This area is a Hope Spot, an important and protected area for the ocean’s health. It is a valuable area for wildlife, with various species of birds and marine life coming to live off the area. Large marine creatures such as dolphins, whales, seals and sharks can be found near the town, some close enough to see while kayaking and others closer to Seal Island, 8 nautical miles away from the harbor.

However, much smaller than these other sea creatures is Simon’s Town’s famous attarction –the penguin colony. Penguins are found on every continent in the Southern Hemisphere, all the way from the Galápagos Islands at the equator to Antarctica. Here in this small town in South Africa, one colony of African penguins known as the Boulders Colony regularly comes ashore. Because of the colony, the town is also named Penguin Town. Breeding season for these birds is between February to August, so it is more common to see penguins during those months, but the birds will also come to land while they are molting. People can watch them from afar, and even swim alongside them, as long as they don’t get too close or chase them because the penguins will bite.

Simon’s Town (9). Joe Pyrek. CC BY-SA 2.0

African penguins–also known as black-footed penguins, Cape penguins, and jackass penguins (the last one because of their unique braying-like sounds)–are an endangered species of penguins, with only around 140,000 penguins in the world. They are small birds, only growing between 24-27 inches and weighing around 8-9 pounds. In addition to the black backs and white fronts, they have a black, parabolic band across their chests, though chicks and juvenile members are brown and gray. The population of this species started declining in the 1980s due to commercial fishing and oil pollution. Though penguins do eat more than just fish, it is the largest part of their diet and commercial fishing has been taking all the species that the penguins eat. Luckily, commercial fishing has been banned in False Bay, so African penguins’ food supply belongs to them and the other sea creatures again. The oil pollution is another serious issue for the birds because the oil will destroy their waterproof feathers, making it hard for them to swim.

There are 27 breeding sites for African penguins, and each of them is a protected habitat, including Simon’s Town, though the town did have to erect fences and boardwalks to prevent the penguins from wandering too far inland and into people’s gardens and backyards. The entire area is a sanctuary for penguins, and keeping them from invading residents’ properties can help people respect the animals, as well as helping the number of penguins to increase.

Katherine Lim

Katherine Lim is an undergraduate student at Vassar College studying English literature and Italian. She loves both reading and writing, and she hopes to pursue both in the future. With a passion for travel and nature, she wants to experience more of the world and everything it has to offer.

Wild Africa

Leaving the urban setting and modern life behind, for 15 years I have been privileged to travel through some of the wildest regions left on our planet — compelled to capture the unique personalities and expressiveness of the magnificent wild animals of Africa. All in black and white, all part of one big family album.

My first meeting with Africa was like a thunderbolt.

There was a part of me that wanted to return to our roots, and Africa resonated with me like the animal instinct that lies deep within each of us. After travelling for thousands of miles, I always have this incredibly vibrant feeling of being in entirely unknown territory. Africa is always evolving, free, and wild... hugely wild.

Above: Lioness (2015)

Above: Hugs of lioness (2006)

Utterly disconnected from our urban environment, for more than fifteen years I have been drawn — mind, body and soul — to photograph the remarkable animals from this land of light and contrast.

Above: Cheetah before the rain (2006)

Above: Elephants and bird (2015)

I am constantly inspired by the sense of serenity and harmony between the natural landscapes and the diverse wildlife that roams these lands.

Everything is connected and the animals are totally adapted to their environment. I take photographs based on my gut instinct. For me, the thing that matters the most is the connection.

Above: Elephant, The road is closed (2015)

Above: Elephant crossing the river (2009)

I cannot stand strict pre-visualisation or procedures that lock people into pre-formatted ways of work. My conviction is never to prepare my shots. I prefer to be guided by luck, and to be inspired by the ever-changing spectacle of wildlife. Out in the field, I often work with a local guide who will drive the car while I concentrate on taking photos. It is very important to be utterly present in the moment, and not to be disturbed.

Opportunities in wildlife photography never come twice.

Above: Zebras crossing the river (2015)

Above: Rhinos quartet (2013)

For me, there is no difference between animals and humans in terms of photography technique. When I take a picture of a lion or a giraffe, I use exactly the same approach as when I photograph people. I try to capture something of the animal’s unique personality and expressiveness, as well as their strength and sense of freedom. I believe my pictures can create a connection between the animal and viewer, as the viewers discover a personality in these animals, and realise they have emotions too.

Above: Lion in the grass (2013)

Above: Two zebras (2004)

Above: Cheetah portrait (2013)

I am always filled with a great sense of tranquility and happiness when I leave the urban setting and modern life behind — travelling for weeks on end through some of the wildest regions left on our planet.

For me, there is nothing more powerful than the strength and beauty of Nature, and yet, at the same time, it is very fragile and precarious.

Above: Elephants crossing the plain (2013)

Above: Giraffe in harmony with their natural setting (2013)

Today, the fall of wildlife in Africa and elsewhere is disastrous.

I cannot know if we will discover more effective methods to halt or reverse this devastating change. However, I choose to hope and believe that we can. I believe that people are fed up with shocking images of destruction, poaching and deforestation — and yet it is of grave importance that we share these images, as we must all know what is happening on our planet. I don’t know exactly how photography can help preserve our wild ecosystems, but I feel proud when people experience my images and understand that these animals are just as ‘human’ as we are — with a personality, and a family.

Above: Lion, The small one (2013)

I believe that we must have a sincere conscience for our fellow animals, and the devastating impact our species is having on so many of them. We must open our minds and hearts to the fact that we all part of a living, breathing planet, and recognise that we are just one piece of this wonder.

We must leave more space, more life, for all the other species, because we will not survive their extinction. It is humanity’s greatest challenge.

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THIS ARTICLE WAS ORIGINALLY PUBLISHED ON MAPTIA

LAURENT BAHEUX

I am a self-taught French photographer inspired by the soul of nature and wildlife. I express this only in Black and White, like a big Family Album. www.laurentbaheux.com