All the Way to Timbuktu: Exploring the Cultural Riches of Mali 

Look beyond what the Western media says to appreciate Mali’s rich cultural heritage.

WARNING: As of February 2021, the U.S. Department of State advises against all travel to Mali due to risk of crime, terrorism and kidnapping. For the time being, enjoy the country from your computer screen. Do not visit Mali.

A man reading historical manuscripts from West Africa. Jermaine Johnson. CC2.0

Mali is a landlocked country located in the heart of West Africa. Mali’s rich history dates back to the 11th century, when the empire of Mali controlled vast swaths of the Niger River valley. Known as a beacon for Islamic scholarship and trade from the 13th to the 16th century, things took a turn when the French colonized the country in 1898. Since achieving independence in 1960, Mali has suffered from coups, droughts, corruption and insurgencies by Islamic extremists in the country’s north

Despite Mali’s negative reputation in Western media coverage, the country has a fascinating history and vibrant culture that deserves to be celebrated—from afar, until safety returns. Here are some of the stunning historical and cultural sites in Mali: 

Djenne

The Great Mosque and market in Djenne, Mali. Carsten ten Brink. CC2.0

Located in central Mali on a seasonal island in between the Niger and Bani rivers, Djenne is one of sub-Saharan Africa’s oldest towns and has been inhabited since 250 B.C. The town was a stopping point for traders in the trans-Saharan gold trade and was known as a hub of Islamic learning during the 15th and 16th centuries. The stunning Great Mosque in Djenne is the world’s largest adobe structure, containing three turrets. Interestingly, adobe structures are very common in Mali due to the lack of wood in the desert. The area in front of the mosque makes a great spot for people-watching and is the site of a colorful market every Monday. 

Cliffs of Bandiagara

A village in Mali’s Dogon region. Emilio Labrador. CC2.0

A UNESCO World Heritage Site, the cliffs of Bandiagara are home to the Dogon people, who continue to carry on age-old traditions. Carved into tall sandstone cliffs, the Dogon region stretches for over 125 miles and provides a fascinating place for travelers. Due to the region’s remote nature, the culture of the Dogon people has been mostly left unchanged for centuries. Dogon cultural festivals take place from April to May and contain beautiful Dogon masks, dance and art. Travelers in the Dogon region often stay overnight in Mopti, a town located along the Niger River. 

Timbuktu

Conducting maintenance at Djingareyber Mosque in Timbuktu. United Nations. CC2.0

A city fabled for its rich heritage as a trading center, Timbuktu is still a crucial point for salt caravans traveling across the Sahara desert. From the 13th to 16th centuries, Timbuktu was a center of Islamic scholarship, with its teachings and sacred texts disseminated across the Muslim world as far as Cairo, Persia and Baghdad. The city was home to a 25,000-student university and several magnificent mosques, including Djingareyber, Sankore and Sidi Yahia. Many manuscripts are now in danger of falling apart or being sold on the black market. Due to recent conflicts in northern Mali, Timbuktu was proclaimed an endangered World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 2012. Thus, preserving Timbuktu’s historical legacy is of utmost concern. 

Bamako

A market in Bamako. Aene gespinst. CC2.0

Mali’s capital is a vibrant city located on the Niger River in the southern part of the country. Translated as “crocodile river” in the Bambara language, it is an exciting place to acclimate to Malian life and culture, whether by trying the local cuisine, visiting bustling markets or exploring Mali’s music scene, which is well known throughout Africa. 

Mali’s rich historical legacy is often overshadowed in the Western media by stories of violence caused by religious extremists, but there is much more to the story. One must be willing to look beyond the country’s negative portrayal to appreciate Mali’s true cultural heritage.



Megan Gürer

Megan is a Turkish-American student at Wellesley College in Massachusetts studying Biological Sciences. Passionate about environmental issues and learning about other cultures, she dreams of exploring the globe. In her free time, she enjoys cooking, singing, and composing music.

Women Take the Mic on Nsawya FM

Saudi feminists are giving voice to obstacles against women’s rights in their new radio show.

Illustration depicting the impact of restricted women’s rights because of male guardianship.

(Source: Human Rights Watch. Saudi Arabia: ‘Unofficial Guardianship Rules Banned. © 2016 by Human Rights Watch

On July 27th, eleven women gave life to Nsawya FM, or Feminism FM, with a simple tweet stating their aim to be the “voice of the silent majority.” Since then, their radio broadcasts have detailed stories of women’s rights abuse with just a laptop, editing software (to disguise the voices of the women sharing the stories), and a microphone. According to Ashtar, a pseudonym for one of the women involved, “the voice of women is revolution.”

And women have been raising their voices. Of the 6.3 million Saudis on Twitter in 2016, 40% were women as found in a study by the Rutgers’s Center for Women’s Global Leadership Report. The same study supported the importance of Twitter in Saudi society by stating that it was the “most effective and influential social network.” This is in part because political leaders monitor Twitter, making political activity more likely to be seen on the social media platform.

Still the potential to be blocked by the government on Twitter—which Nsawya FM states happened temporarily—is why they have chosen the radio: they do not want to risk losing the “archive of [their] thoughts.”

Nsawya FM’s archive consists of submissions by Saudi women of their stories, opinions, and criticisms on women’s rights, such as domestic abuse. The first stories told were of Hanan Shahri and Sara. Both stories highlight the effects of male guardianship: a system where a women’s crucial decisions—including travel, marriage, and studying abroad—are made by a male figure. These guardians can be fathers, husbands, brothers, or sons.

Shahri’s story was widely reported in 2013 after she killed herself following a beating by her brother and uncle and their refusal to allow her to marry her fiancé. Then there is Sara, a university student whose dream to marry her fiancé from Yemen, following approval from her parents, was ended when her brother shot her.

So it is no surprise that women began turning to Twitter to push back against guardianship. In 2016 they coined #AbolishGuardianship to highlight abuse and rally support against it. Within two months, 14,000 signatures had been collected for an online petition against guardianship. Although gradual changes have occurred for women, most notably the ability to drive, male guardianship is grounded in religion and cuts across all socio-economic classes.

But to these 11 women producers and their 2500 audience members there is hope that civilian law might one day replace the Islamic law. They are bringing the stories traditionally protected under male guardianship to light and public criticism.

“Of course [they] are scared,” as Ashtar has also been quoted saying. But their fear is driven by a determination for equal rights. For them it begins with placing the women’s narrative before the public’s eyes: Nsawya FM is making a statement on behalf of Saudi women to the world that they exist.

 

 

TERESA NOWALK is a student at the University of Virginia studying anthropology and history. In her free time she loves traveling, volunteering in the Charlottesville community, and listening to other people’s stories. She does not know where her studies will take her, but is certain writing will be a part of whatever the future has in store.