CATALYST PLANET - The Four Worlds of Ecuador

In a country smaller than Colorado, there are four distinct geographical regions from the coast to the Amazon, each representing its own culture.

Per square mile, Ecuador is the most biodiverse country in the world. In the east lies the Amazon Rainforest, known in Ecuador as “el oriente,” or “the orient” in English. The Andes rise like a spine through the middle of the country , and are known in Ecuador as “la sierra.” It is here that Ecuador’s Capital Quito is located, making it the second highest capital in the world. Bordering the ocean is the country’s coast, known as “la costa,” home to Guayaquil, Ecuador’s largest city. Finally, about 600 miles off the coast of Ecuador is the biological treasure of the Galapagos Islands, home of the Galapagos Tortoises, the biggest tortoises in the world.

I have spent the past 3 and a half months studying in Ecuador. During that time I visited three of the four major regions, and lived in both the Amazon and the Andes. Beyond the geographical differences, each region has its own cultures unique to itself. Based on my research and experiences, this article will discuss what makes each region special.

“La Sierra” - The Andes

Quito, the capital of Ecuador and its most famous city, is located in the Andes at the center of not only Ecuador but also the world, positioned almost exactly on the Equator line, a fact that appeals to tourist so much that there are not one but two “centers of the world” in and around Quito. The “center of the world” is supposed to be the exact 0.0 line of Ecuador, so having two is very much not possible. Although only one of them is real, both are constantly crowded and attract plenty of visitors every year. In my opinion, the fake one, built up to the point it seems like its own little town, is actually nicer than the real site.

Fake Center of the Earth, Maros M r a z (Maros), CC BY-SA 3.0

If you drive away from Quito in almost any direction, you will run into a volcano. There are 17 volcanoes surrounding the city. Two of the most famous of the volcanoes, Pinchicha and Cotopaxi, are both very much active and occasionally release smoke. The volcanic mountains can be seen throughout most of Quito, creating beautiful vistas wherever you care to look.

A picture from on top of the Basilica del Voto Nacional. Jeremy Giles

Within the city itself, the star is “el centro historico,” the historic and colonial center of Quito. Here the buildings are hundreds of years old, all built in a Spanish style in a wondrous variety of pastel colors, all on top of slanting roads curving with the mountains underneath it. This branch of the city is home to the Presidential Palace and many other beautiful government buildings and churches. My favorite of all is the Basilica de Voto Nacional, a huge building with two beautiful towers looming over the city, and unlike any other Church I’ve been to, you are actually able to climb up it, giving you spectacular views of the capital. Beyond this, if you look up at the Basilica from the ground, you can see that instead of Gargoyles lining it like a typical Basilica there are famous animals from all different parts of Ecuador.

While Quito is by far the biggest city in La Sierra, it is not the region’s only attraction. About a two hour drive from Quito is the city of Otavalo, one of the two largest Kichwa areas of Ecuador. The Kichwa peoples were part of the Inca Empire and have been in Ecuador for thousands of years. Today, their culture and language is still very much living. Otavalo is famous for its Kichwa market, where beautiful handmade blankets, sweaters, hammocks and more are created from incredibly soft alpaca wool. The prices are amazing; when I was last there I bought a beautiful alpaca wool blanket for only 20 dollars.

Cuenca, Ecuador, Bernard Gagnon, CC BY-SA 3.0

While I never had the opportunity to visit it, maybe the most beautiful city in La Sierra is Ecuador’s third largest city, Cuenca. This andean city is known for its thriving culinary scene, often serving some of Ecuador’s best traditional dishes. It has an incredibly charming appeal and is home to the beautiful El Cajas National park. When I next return to Ecuador Cuenca is for sure one of the top destinations on my list.

“El Oriente” - The Amazon Rainforest

To reiterate, Ecuador is known as the most biodiverse country in the world per square mile. The Ecuadorian Amazon is the center of that biodiversity. The Amazon in Ecuador has 300 different species of mammals, 350 of reptiles, 800 of fish, and 1,600 of birds. These species are some of the centerpoints of Amazonian culture in Ecuador. Per indigenous Kichwa beliefs, the Pachamama created the Earth, and the Amazon for its people. When shamans, traditional healers, die, they become a “boa” or “tigre,” general words in the Ecuadorian Amazon for a very large snake or a big cat. The latter is a false friend for English speakers; although “tigre” translates directly to “tiger,” there aren’t actually any tigers in the Amazon.

While visiting the Amazon I lived in the Pastaza province, the largest province in Ecuador, and an area almost entirely covered by the Rainforest. Somehow, Pastaza manages to be just as diverse culturally as it is biologically. In Pastaza alone, there are seven different independent Indigenous groups, each with its own separate language, culture, and customs. There are significant efforts in the region to make sure these languages survive, and in schools students learn both Spanish and their Indigenous language.

For the month I was in Pastaza, I stayed in its capital Puyo, an incredibly diverse multi-ethnic city of about 40,000 people. There, I felt as welcomed as I’ve ever felt anywhere. Through the generosity of my host families I got to experience many of the special things about Puyo. Here, I will share with you one of my favorites: the food. The Amazon river provides the families of Puyo with an amazing abundance of fresh fish, particularly tilapia, at prices even cheaper than Ecuadorian norm. Once, my host family bought nine individual portion sized live tilapia for 12 dollars.

After buying the fish, the typical method of preparation is to make a dish called “Maito.” When cooking Maito the family will cut down a really big leaf. They will then put the fish in the leaf and wrap it up. They put this over the fire and let the fish cook. Then they will open the leaf and serve with fish, often accompanied with grilled plantains and a potato-like root vegetable called yucca that is native to the region. Traditionally, the family does not filet fish or remove the skin and eats everything but the bones. I did this while I was there and while it is often avoided in the west, I found the skin quite rich.

“La Costa” - The Coast

An Aerial View of Guayaquil, JorgeAlejanDroo, CC BY-SA 4.0

It's impossible to talk about the Ecuadorian coast without discussing the biggest city in all of Ecuador, Guayaquil. While Guayaquil lacks the aesthetic beauty of Quito in the Andes, it is impressive in its own right. Quito is an old city that is sprawled over many many miles, with hardly any tall buildings. Because of this, Guayaquil, a city working hard to modernize, is the home to Ecuador’s tallest building. Along with this is “la perla” or “The Pearl,” which, during its opening in 2015, was the largest ferris wheel in South America.

Ferris Wheel in Guayaquil, Sebastian Reategui, CC0, via Wikimedia Commons

Although the star of Guayaquil, and home to said ferris wheel, is “El Malecon 2000.” El Malecon 2000, named after the year it was opened, is a gorgeous 2.5 kilometer riverfront promenade. Located along the path are plenty of attractions, including a museum of anthropology, an Imax theater and a garden, adorned with its own koi ponds.

Malecon 2000, Guayaquil, Padaguan, CC BY-SA 3.0

It should be noted, however I was in Ecuador as part of a study abroad program. During the program, in our last month, we were allowed to select almost anywhere in Ecuador to conduct an independent study. The two places we were not allowed to study were Ecuador’s border with Colombia, and Guayaquil. Ecuador as a whole has a problem with theft and crime. During my time living in and around Quito and Puyo that was always manageable. If you take common sense precautions and are careful, generally speaking, you’ll be okay, just like in a large city in the United States. The same cannot always be said for Guayaquil, especially for foreigners, who may become more of a target because of their manner of speaking and the color of their skin. Guayaquil is a beautiful city that locals frequent often for its climate, culture, and the amazing beaches of Ecuador’s coast. Foreigners can visit too, but they must exercise a considerable amount of caution.

The Galapagos Islands

Galapagos Tortoise, Mike's Birds from Riverside, CA, US, CC BY-SA 2.0

The Galapagos Islands are famous for their finches, which Darwin used to prove the existence of evolution. These birds, ironically, while perhaps the most famous species of the islands, are also one of their least impressive, looking just like small sparrows. The Galapagos’ namesake species however, the Galapagos tortoise, is a different story. These gentle behemoths are the biggest tortoises in the world, and one of the few creatures on Earth with a longer lifespan than humans, frequently living over 120 years old.

Sea Lions laying on a beach, Jeremy Giles

To add to the tortoises, the Galapagos has a slew of amazing native species, many of which can only be found on the islands. There are native penguins and flamingos, frigate birds with huge red pouches under their throats that can blow up like balloons and a bevy of sea lions loitering across the beaches. My personal favorite is the marine iguana, the only marine lizard species in the world and one that, while swimming, looks almost like a snake with legs.

Puerto Ayora Harbor, Santa Cruz Island, Galapagos, David Broad, CC BY 3.0

In addition to the animal species, the Galapagos also has a significant population of people. Four of the 13 major islands are home to around 30,000 permanent residents. While the islands are in the same region, each one has its own individual culture and way of seeing the world. These cultures, due to the interests of foreign countries in protecting the Galapagos, are often very diverse, creating a very interesting dining scene. The biggest town in the Galapagos is Puerto Ayora on Santa Cruz Islands, with a population of more than 10,000.