Jokhang Temple is regarded as the spiritual center of Tibet and the holiest destination for Tibetan Buddhists. It is a World Heritage site, situated in the heart of the old town of Lhasa and surrounded by picturesque Barkhor Square. Everyday, crowds of people stroll the area shopping for souvenirs and sampling the local delicacies. Yet, the street is actually a well-known kora (pilgrimage route) and people can be seen turning the prayer wheels and/or prostrating their way around the holy area. Prostrating—the act of stretching out with one’s face touching the ground in an act of submission—is the most devout way for Tibetan Buddhists to pray to the Buddha. It is not unusual to see even small children carry out this ritual and be rewarded for their efforts with donations of money. The entire area is a vibrant feast for the eyes and is the perfect destination for witnessing the devotion of Tibetans to their religion and the continuing adherence to their culture despite its annexation by China.
Although some Western dress is worn, many men prefer to wear a traditional robe called a chuba. Most are ankle length and are pulled up at the waist over a belt. The sleeves are exceptionally long, and in the summer the right sleeve is not worn but instead is tucked into the belt exposing a long sleeve shirt. Men from the southeastern region of Kham tend to wear short chubas and are identified by red or black yarn tassels worn in thehair, embellished with a silver, coral and turquoise clip and a bone ring. They often still wear their hair this way, even with Western clothing.
The women dress in close fitting sleeveless tunics and long-sleeved shirts with brightly decorated aprons at the waist, which are made from a material called bangdian. Bangdian have traditionally been worn by married women, but today, many unmarried Tibetan women also wear them. Tibetans have traditionally chosen to braid their hair rather than cut it because long hair is believed to be connected to prosperity and health. The women’s hair is usually worn in braids or micro-braids, which can number up to 108, this being a sacred number in Buddhism. The braids—which can signal a woman’s marital status, social rank and tribal affiliation—may be decorated with ornaments of silver, gold, turquoise, coral, amber and other semi-precious stones. They take hours to complete but, once complete, can last for months.
The prayer wheel (mani chos ‘khor) and rosary (mala) are also integral to Tibetan Buddhist worship. A personal prayer wheel is a mechanical device which has a hollow metal cylinder containing a scroll printed with a repeated mantra. They are often beautifully embossed and decorated and are mounted on a rod handle. Each time one turns the wheel, it is equivalent to one recitation of the mantra, multiplied by the number of times the mantra is printed on the scroll.
Malas are similar to prayer beads used in other religions, such as the Catholic rosary. Like the prayer wheel, they are used to keep track of the repetition of mantras and help focus concentration during spiritual practice. A long mala will have 108 beads—the Buddhist sacred number.
Jokhang Temple is a wonderful place to immerse yourself in the rich and vibrant culture of the Tibetan people. It is at the heart of a busy commercial city but displays so visually everything that Tibetans hold dear.
Carol Foote
Young boys making their way prostrating around the kora. Note the blocks in their hands which enable them to slide along the ground.
Carol Foote
A small boy holding the donations that he has collected.
Carol Foote
A mother and child lie on the ground in prayer whilst the younger child looks on in amusement.
Carol Foote
A gentleman from the Kham region wearing a traditional chuba and black hair tassel.
Carol Foote
A couple wearing winter wool-lined chubas. The woman also sports Tibetan traditional boots.
Carol Foote
Young man from the Kham region wearing a red hair tassel and hair clip embellished with turquoise and carnelian.
Carol Foote
Elderly women watching the passing parade of devotees dressed in bangdian aprons.
Carol Foote
Women wearing sleeveless chubas, bangdian aprons and elaborate silver belts.
Carol Foote
Elaborately decorated micro-braids which can number 108—the Buddhist sacred number.
Carol Foote
A typical ornate Tibetan headdress.
Carol Foote
Dressed in his chuba, he also carries a prayer wheel and prayer beads.
Carol Foote
Women walking the kora holding their prayer wheels.
Carol Foote
Carol is based in Queensland Australia and has always been drawn to street photography, searching out the most colourful and quirky characters in her own environment. After studying documentary photography at college, she travelled to Yunnan, China to photograph the wide diversity of ethnic minorities in the region. However, over the past five years, her focus has shifted to Tibet, Nepal and India. As someone who has always been drawn to unique and different cultures, the regions rich heritage and local traditions make it a haven for her style of photography.
Follow Carol on social media @carolfoote_photographer