Argentina's Talampaya and Ischigualasto Parks contain between them the most complete continental fossil record of the Triassic Period, and a record of early humanity.
Valle de la Luna. Rodoluca. CC BY-SA 3.0
In the heart of Argentina, the Ischigualasto and Talampaya Natural Parks are a gateway to a prehistoric world. Situated on the border between the provinces of San Juan and La Rioja, in Argentina's Monte ecoregion, a warm scrub desert along the Eastern Andean foothills, these contiguous parks contain a plethora of geological marvels, ancient history and stunning desert landscapes for visitors to explore.
Ischigualasto Rock Formations. Rita Willaert. CC BY-NC-SA 2.0
Ischigualasto and Talampaya stretch over most of the sedimentary basin of the Ischigualasto-Villa Union Triassic, a geologic basin of great scientific importance which formed during the Triassic Period, approximately 250 to 200 million years ago. The basin contains a sequence of six layers of continental fossiliferous sandstone and mudstone sediments deposited by rivers, lakes and swamps, providing the world’s most complete and undisturbed picture of the geological history of the Triassic Period.
The geological record helps us understand the evolution of vertebrate life and the nature of palaeoenvironments in the Triassic, the era that ushered in the Age of the Dinosaurs. Fossil records of at least 100 species of plants, 56 known genera and many more species of vertebrates, such as fish, amphibians, and a great variety of reptiles and direct mammalian ancestors, including the early dinosaur Eoraptor, have been found in the park.
Guanacos, Ischigualasto National Park. Rita Willaert. CC BY-NC-SA 2.0
Radiocarbon dating suggests that humans occupied the area approximately 2,590-950 years ago. At Ischigualasto, six rock art sites have been discovered, along with burial sites, campgrounds and tool-making areas, as well as 1500-year-old petroglyphs (images carved into rock). The petroglyphs depict, among other things, geometric human figures, animals and a radiating sun figure. Animal and human footprints have also been found in the art, mainly puma, rhea and guanaco prints.
Valle della Luna. Guslight. CC BY-NC 2.0
One of Ischigualasto's main attractions is the Valle della Luna (Valley of the Moon). The valley, located near the provincial capital of San Juan, is famous for its unique and otherworldly landscapes. The valley is composed of rugged badlands of bizarrely shaped multicolored rocks and a floor of barren gray-white volcanic clay. Two hundred and thirty million years ago, the desert was a volcanically active floodplain, crisscrossed by rivers and subjected to seasonal heavy rainfalls. Petrified tree trunks more than 130 feet tall are a record of the ancient vegetation. These days the stark desert vista has sparse vegetation, xeric shrubs, cacti, the occasional tree and several rare species of flora and fauna.
The Canon de Talampaya (Talampaya Gorge) is Talampaya’s main attraction. The red sandstone walls of the canyon and the surrounding cliffs reach up to 656 feet. The landscape has been deeply eroded by watercourses, a testament to the artistry of nature. These days the area is usually dry, but flash floods powerful enough to move large boulders have been known to strike the area.
Ischigualasto National Park. Benjamin Dumas. CC BY-NC-SA 2.0
Before Spain began its conquest of South America, the area that now makes up the parks was inhabited by several groups of Indigenous people who lived as semi-nomadic hunters and gatherers, including the Diaguita and Huarpes.
The Ischigualasto and Talampaya Parks are more than just sites of great natural beauty. They are a journey into the history of this planet. Their spectacular geological formations, unparalleled scientific significance and cultural heritage have rightfully earned them a place on UNESCO’s list of World Heritage sites.
GETTING THERE
Fellow travelers recommend reaching the parks by taking an airplane to Villa Union, the closest neighboring city. From there you can rent a car, and it is about a 40-minute drive to Talampaya. You could also stay in La Rioja, which is about a 2-hour drive from the parks. Rough camping is permitted in the buffer zone at Ischigualasto Park, which has a small visitor center with an interpretive display, four toilets and a single ranger’s residence. Small buffet food services are available at both parks. Walking trails and interpretive signs are scarce. There are full-service facilities, lodging, commerce and medical care in the nearby towns of San Agustin in San Juan Province and Patquja and Villa Union in La Rioja Province. There are agencies in La Rioja and Villa Union that offer guided tours of the park.
Rebecca Pitcairn
Rebecca studies Italian Language and Literature, Classical Civilizations, and English Writing at the University of Pittsburgh. She hopes to one day attain a PhD in Classical Archeology. She is passionate about feminism and climate justice. She enjoys reading, playing the lyre, and longboarding in her free time.