Romania — World News, Travel and Social Action

The country of Romania is a diorama of hundreds of years of human history.

Bucharest’s skyline. seisdeagosto. CC BY-SA 2.0

Romania’s incredibly rich history is still preserved to this day in the form of beautiful architecture. Medieval castles and communist palaces rub elbows in the beautiful landscape, standing side by side to create a fascinating timeline of human history.

A feat of medieval architecture, the legendary Bran Fortress is seated in the heart of the Transylvania region. Although it is known outside of Romania as “Dracula’s Castle,” there is no direct relation between the actual castle and the famous novel by Bram Stoker. The site’s only vampiric influence is a tangential relation to Vlad the Impaler, a historical monarch who had little connection to the supernatural outside of literary and popular imagination.

The Bran Fortress is a striking example of Saxon architecture. Built in 1377, the palace is now used as a museum displaying the furniture and art collection of Queen Marie, the last queen of Romania, who ruled from 1914 to 1927. The collection is open to visitors and provides guided tours of the historical pieces. Below the palace is a recreation of Romanian peasant life, featuring reconstructed barns, water-powered machinery and cottages.

A view of Bran Fortress. Clay Gilliland, CC SA 2.0

An even more ancient —yet surprisingly modern—relic hidden in the heart of Romania is the Salina Turda, a salt mine dating all the way back to 1075. Founded by the Roman occupants of Transylvania, the mine continued to produce table salt for centuries before finally closing its doors in 1932. Years later, in 2010, the massive series of caverns was reopened as a tourist destination and historical site. In addition, the Theresa Mine houses a beautiful underground lake a full 400 feet below ground.

The modern Salina Turda Salt Mine. Valentin Cocarlea, CC BY-SA 4.0

Jumping ahead roughly a century, the city of Brasov is home to the 14th-century Biserica Neagra, or the Black Church. This beautiful Gothic cathedral was nearly destroyed by a fire in the 1680s and took nearly a century to fully repair. The church got its name from the ruined, soot-covered walls which remained after the blaze. Today, the Church is open to visitors and still holds weekly concerts with its massive, 4,000-pipe organ.

Biserica Neagra, the Black Church. Gaspar Ros. CC BY-SA 3.0

A palace of the modern era, the Palace of Parliament stands in the capital city of Bucharest. Constructed in the 1980s, this palace was planned and built by the communist regime of Romania in the midst of the Cold War. Since the ousting of the Communist Party, the palace has become the home of the Romanian legislature. The Palace of Parliament is an incredible combination of architectural styles, creating a uniquely beautiful building with as much form as function.

The Romanian Palace of Parliament. Jorge Franganillo. CC BY-SA 2.0Romania is one of the best examples of a living museum. From the Middle Ages to the Cold War, whole centuries are represented in art, architecture and sometimes the land itself. For the historically driven tourist, Romania is a destination that can’t be matched anywhere else.

The best time to visit Romania is between May and September when the weather is warmest. The capital city of Bucharest offers a variety of hotel bookings ranging from $100 to $200 per night. More affordable options include rental apartments around the city from $30 to $40 per night.

Ryan Livingston

Ryan is a senior at The College of New Jersey, majoring in English and minoring in marketing. Since a young age, Ryan has been passionate about human rights and environmental action and uses his writing to educate wherever he can. He hopes to pursue a career in professional writing and spread his message even further.

For citizens of tiny Sibiu, Romania, “watchful eyes” nestled in the city’s roofs have become a symbol of ongoing protest.

Houses with eyes in Sibiu. lucianf. CC BY 2.0

Each day at noon, in the picturesque little city of Sibiu, the red-shingled roofs and the protestors silently assembled in the streets send the same message to the corrupt government of Romania: We are watching you.

Visitors to Sibiu take note of the standard Central European attributes: the quaint, historic architecture, punctuated by the Gothic Lutheran cathedral, whose steeple looms high into the sky; the houses clinging to the bank of the river Cibin, which winds lazily down from the main waterway of Olt. But they are likely to do a double-take upon noticing the ever-watchful Sibiu eyes—narrow windows rising up from the city’s roofs, giving the impression of a perpetual half-lidded gaze. Originally designed to ventilate attics where meat, cheese, and grain were stored while keeping the harsh sunlight out, the eyes have become a potent symbol of Romania’s anti-corruption movement—specifically, a grassroots organization called V Vedem din Sibiu, or “we are watching you from Sibiu.”

V Vedem din Sibiu came about in December 2017, when the government moved to shift judiciary statutes in a way that was widely regarded as tightening state control over judges and undermining the National Anticorruption Directorate. The attempt further inflamed tensions ignited at the beginning of the year, when the ruling Social Democrat party (PSD) decriminalized a range of corruption offenses, triggering Romania’s most sizable street protest since the fall of communism in 1989. The emergency ordinance—which, among other stipulations, dropped charges of official misconduct in cases where the financial damage did not exceed 200,000 lei ($47,000)—passed at 10 p.m. local time; by midnight, more than 10,000 infuriated citizens had taken to the streets in the capital of Bucharest, and around 10,000 in other cities across Romania.

Anti-corruption protesters in Bucharest. Paul Arne Wagner. CC BY-NC-ND 2.0

Corruption is considered a serious problem in Romania, and the country’s fragile political state is exacerbated by its status as one of the European Union’s newest and poorest members, leaving citizens concerned for their rights and constantly at the ready to mount a protest. In the years and months since the events of 2017, Romania has seen ongoing organizing against corruption and in support of judicial independence, and the government has endured criticism from the European Commission, the U.S. state department, and the centrist president and National Liberal Party leader, Klaus Iohannis, who has made strong calls for governmental transparency. In January 2018, approximately 50,000 Romanians marched towards parliament in Bucharest, waving flags, contending with riot police, and raising raucous chants of “Thieves!” And in August of that year, up to 100,000 members of the Romanian diaspora descended on Bucharest to protest the PSD—an event that took a violent turn when police deterred marchers with tear gas and water cannons.

Anti-corruption protesters in Bucharest. Paul Arne Wagner. CC BY 2.0

Relative to the chaotic, overwhelming tableau of the ongoing demonstrations in Bucharest, the soundless walkouts occurring daily in Sibiu present a stark contrast. This July, the Sibiu protesters commemorated their 500th day gathering in the city center, sacrificing their lunch breaks or school recesses to stand in silence outside the headquarters of the PSD. “Those 15 minutes every day, it is like a flame that never goes out,” said Ciprian Ciocan, one of the founders of V Vedem din Sibiu, in an interview with The Guardian. “Somebody knows that there are still people in Sibiu, no matter whether it rains or snows or whatever.”

Ciocan posts live videos of the protests on V Vedem din Sibiu’s Facebook page, where they reach more than 20,000 followers. During the events of December 2017, allies from around the world sent in more than 68 versions of the Sibiu eyes—scrawled on walls and scraps of paper, carved into sand at the seashore, inscribed with branches laid on fresh snow, from Berlin to Chicago to Kuala Lumpur. Though the initial tide of eyes has slowed, the page continues to share media coverage of the protests along with its regularly scheduled live videos. The “about” section defines the sit-in as a form of protest, stating, “We are protecting the values and principles in which we strongly believe, the state of law and the independence of Justice.”

In May of this year, under pressure from the EU and overwhelming dissent from Romanian voters, the PSD abandoned some of its most controversial measures. Even more devastating for the party was their loss of seats in European Parliament elections and the departure of the PSD leader, Liviu Dragnea, who was jailed on May 27 and is expected to serve a three-and-a-half-year sentence for corruption.

Despite small steps in the right direction, however, citizens remain on high alert. “There are many other dangers,” Bianca Toma of the Romanian Centre for European Policies told The Guardian. “There are still things to be undone and it’s a matter of fact, not just [making] statements.” And in Sibiu, the ongoing protests have had little impact on the PSD, whose workers drew the blinds when sit-ins began and issued a statement accusing the activists of “aggressive” behavior. Still, like clockwork, citizens will keep turning out in the streets, and the watchful eyes will keep gazing from Sibiu’s rooftops, waiting for a day when Romanians at home and abroad can live without fear of corruption.

TALYA PHELPS hails from the wilds of upstate New York, but dreams of exploring the globe. As former editor-in-chief at the student newspaper of her alma mater, Vassar College, and the daughter of a journalist, she hopes to follow her passion for writing and editing for many years to come. Contact her if you're looking for a spirited debate on the merits of the em dash vs. the hyphen.