Turkmenistan — World News, Travel and Social Action

Stretching from China and the Far East to Europe and the Middle East, the Silk Road was once the world’s most important trade route.

The Mir-i-Arab Madrassa in Bukhara, Uzbekistan, showcases the Islamic architecture so prevalent along the Silk Road. Marco Verch. CC BY 2.0

It opened in 130 B.C. and remained in use for the next 1,500 years, leading to the rise of countless cities along its path. Though their significance has faded, the grandeur of Central Asia’s Silk Road cities continues to amaze all who visit.

1. Samarkand

A view of the Registan and its three madrassas in Samarkand, Uzbekistan. K3nna. CC BY 2.0

Undoubtedly the highlight of Uzbekistan, Samarkand was once one of the world’s premier cities. After his visit in 1333, the explorer Ibn Battuta called Samarkand “one of the greatest and finest of cities, and most perfect of them in beauty.” The city’s elegance is still revealed in the Registan, a courtyard surrounded by three marvelously beautiful madrassas, or Islamic schools. The distinctive tile work that covers the area’s buildings remains of the best examples of Islamic architecture in the world. Samarkand is also home to the Bibi-Khanym Mosque, once one of the largest in the Islamic world. Much of the mosque was destroyed by an earthquake in 1897, but glimpses of its original splendor still transport visitors back to its glory days in the 15th century.

2. Merv

The Great Kyz Kala, known as the “Maiden’s Castle,” is one of many crumbling fortresses in Merv. Gai Jorayev. CC BY-SA 4.0

Located in the far-off reaches of Turkmenistan, Merv’s broad religious and commercial influence once made it the third-largest city in the world. The Mongols ransacked Merv in 1221, and the city never recovered. Its extensive ruins remain, though, and amaze all who reach them. Fortresses, medieval walls, mausoleums and mosques have been uncovered, some dating back to 2500 B.C. Many of Merv’s ruins have not yet been preserved, so a visit here is a unique opportunity to see ancient history as it originally stood. One word of caution: gaining a tourist visa for Turkmenistan is notoriously difficult, so plan far ahead if arranging a trip.

3. Bukhara

The Kalyan Minaret stands above Bukhara’s Po-i-Kalyan complex in the center of town. Travelmag.com. CC BY 2.0

Holding much of Samarkand’s grandeur with far fewer crowds, Bukhara is one of Uzbekistan’s most compelling cities. Its prosperity as a Silk Road trading site led to the establishment of Bukhara as one of the intellectual and artistic hubs of Islamic civilization. The city’s prominent stature led to incredible sites such as the Po-i-Kalyan complex, Bukhara’s stunning town center. Po-i-Kalyan is home to an intricately designed mosque with 288 domes and 208 pillars, a still-in-use madrassa, and a minaret (Islamic tower) so impressive that Genghis Khan left it standing during his invasion of the city. Other must-visit spots include the Ark of Bukhara, an ancient fortress which offers stunning views of the city, and a bazaar where trading occurs much as it has for centuries.

4. Tash Rabat

Though it looks small from the outside, Tash Rabat is filled with a maze of rooms once used by Silk Road traders. Allan Grey. CC BY-SA 2.0

Situated almost 10,500 feet above sea level in Kyrgyzstan’s Tian Shan Mountains, Tash Rabat offered respite to weary Silk Road travelers along a challenging part of their journey. This still out-of-the way spot operated as a caravanserai, or roadside inn, throughout the 15th century. Though many caravanserais can be found along the Silk Road’s path, Tash Rabat stands out due to its stunning mountainous location and its labyrinthine layout. Archaeologists believe that Tash Rabat was originally a 10th-century Christian monastery, explaining its dark and imposing maze of rooms. Visitors often find the site to be mysterious and endlessly fascinating, and often combine it with horseback riding tours and yurt stays in the dramatic Kyrgyz countryside.

5. Khiva

Kalta Minor Minaret’s blue tiles strongly contrast with the sandstone buildings around it. Dan Lundberg. CC BY-SA 2.0

The final of Uzbekistan’s trio of Silk Road cities is Khiva, home to a narrow maze of historic treasures stretching back to the fifth century. One such spot is the Tash-Khauli Palace, an exquisitely designed structure with over 150 mesmerizing rooms and courtyards. Continued exploration leads travelers to Juma Mosque, held up by 200 uniquely designed wooden pillars. Khiva claims two minarets, the climbable Islam Khodja Minaret and the Kalta Minor Minaret, which is bathed in beautiful blue tiling. The best view in town, though, comes at the Kuhna Ark Watchtower, where the city’s sandstone walls brilliantly reflect light rays at sunset.

Uzbekistan’s new attention to human rights and democratic ideals, along with the rapid boom in its tourism industry and steps toward religious tolerance, are potential signifiers of progress.

Tashkent, capital of Uzbekistan. Markus Biedermann. CC BY NC-ND 2.0.

Cradled between Kazakhstan and Turkmenistan, Uzbekistan lies at the heart of Central Asia. Uzbekistan’s population is predominantly Sunni Muslim, and adherents are considered the most devout in Central Asia. The capital, Tashkent, is full of signs of its rich Islamic heritage: historic mosques and mausoleums are scattered among Soviet-style towers.

The country’s complex and multifaceted history explains its diverse population. At the height of the Silk Road, cities located in present-day Uzbekistan such as Bukhara and Samarkand were trading hubs between the East and the West. It was through these centers that Arab traders brought Islam and a written alphabet to the region. After centuries of conquests and rivalry between Uzbek city-states, Russia swallowed up these states with the promise of protection in the early 19th century. It was established as the Uzbek Soviet Socialist Republic in 1924, where religion was suppressed and the population inflicted with forced collectivization.

Ever since Uzbekistan’s independence in 1991, long-serving President Islam Karimov has largely avoided democratization while embracing diplomacy and investment from the global community. Despite his attempts to join the U.S. in its “war on terror,” Karimov was regularly criticized by the United Nations for his long record of human rights violations. His persecution of the large Muslim population in Uzbekistan could not be ignored by U.S. in light of the Andijan massacre, when at least 187 civilians were killed. After Karimov’s death in 2016, Uzbekistan seems to have emerged from three decades of isolation and autocratic rule.

Today, President Shavkat Mirziyoyev’s administration boasts of its progressive policies: Mirziyoyev advocates for freedom of the press, supports religious tolerance and disapproves of unjust imprisonment. Since the start of Mirziyoyev’s presidency in 2016, a few journalists have been spared incarceration, previously blocked media platforms were made accessible, and a number of political prisoners were released. These actions displayed Mirziyoyev’s ostensible devotion to human rights, which was bolstered by his emerging friendship with U.S. Rep. Trent Kelly, his interaction with nongovernmental organizations, and his government’s partnership with the Cotton Campaign, which combats unpaid cotton production in Uzbekistan. As a result, Uzbekistan was elected to the U.N. Human Rights Council for the first time in history this October. In an article found on the United Nations’ website, Uzbekistan is lauded for its “firm commitment to the purposes and principles of the U.N. Charter and the universal declaration of human rights.” Although members of the U.N. carefully watch Mirziyoyev to ensure the establishment of these democratic ideals, Uzbekistan is now regarded as a country working toward greater freedom.

There are complications involved in Mirziyoyev’s steps toward democratization. Even though Mirziyoyev has been vocal about eliminating Uzbekistan’s forced cotton labor, advocacy group Uzbek Forum found that forced labor persists in the country. Rather than setting up an institutional stronghold on the cotton industry, the government privatized the cotton sector, which only decentralized government-enforced labor by a few degrees.

Mirziyoyev’s efforts toward modernizing the Uzbek capital of Tashkent have resulted in mass displacement of the city’s original inhabitants. Through the demolition of its buildings and the restructuring of its neighborhoods, the government has carried out a wide-scale gentrification of the city. Tashkent is now considered a travel destination, full of shining skyscrapers and new hotel districts. In order to bolster Uzbekistan’s economy, Mirziyoyev allowed visa-free travel for 30 days for visitors from 65 countries, including the United States.

These markers of progress are met with a mixture of emotions—the U.N. is enthusiastic about Mirziyoyev’s commitment to human rights, while Human Rights Watch remains skeptical of the legitimacy of these policies. The new seemingly democratic leadership of Mirziyoyev creates suspicion among Uzbeks and foreigners alike. Pushed by economic motivations, the president’s attempts to abide by the universal guidelines of human rights stir up hopes among Uzbeks for a freer future.