Each winter in the Shetland Islands of Scotland, thousands of revelers take to the streets in celebration of Up Helly Aa, a Viking fire festival that occurs annually. This long-running Shetland tradition, which commemorates the area’s rich Viking history, recently celebrated 100 years of formal organization. Up Helly Aa is at the center of Shetland’s cultural history and celebrates Nordic influence on the area.
Map of the Shetland Islands. Finlay McWalter. CC BY 2.0.
Where is Shetland?
Shetland, also called the Shetland Islands, is comprised of around 100 islands off the north coast of Scotland. Only 15 of these islands are inhabited, with the rest home to the abundant wildlife of the region. Shetland is positioned between the Faroe Islands, Norway and mainland Scotland. Only 400 miles south of the Arctic Circle, Shetland is located 93 miles closer to Norway than it is to mainland Scotland.
Sumburgh Head bird sanctuary at the southernmost end of Shetland. Joe deSousa. CC BY-SA 2.0.
Viking Influence in Shetland
Shetland was invaded by the Vikings around 800 A.D. and for the next 600 years remained under Viking control. While the islands were later sold to Scotland, Viking influence is still present today. Most place names are Nordic in root, and Shetland still contains some of the best-preserved Viking archaeological sites in the world. The northern island of Unst alone is home to over 30 Viking houses.
Scandinavian influence saturates this Scottish archipelago. In the Shetland dialect, there still exists a strong Norse influence. Cultural traditions like Up Helly Aa recall the Nordic history of this land, providing a modern connection with ancient rites.
The jarl squad marches through Lerwick. Mal Vara. CC BY 4.0.
What is Up Helly Aa?
Up Helly Aa is Europe’s largest Viking fire festival and includes celebrations throughout Shetland from January through March. The largest event is Up Helly Aa in Lerwick, the capital of the Shetland Islands, which occurs on the last Tuesday of January each year. This event is for the community, and while travelers may observe the celebrations, they are unable to participate.
Each year, there is one jarl leader who serves as the head of the festival. This prestigious position is high ranking in Shetland society, and the jarl’s preparations for the festival are all done in secrecy.
Male participants, called “guizers,” are divided into squads, and only the squad led by the jarl wears Viking dress. The jarl squad, in their distinctive traditional costumes, leads the other groups of guizers, each dressed in distinctive and outlandish garb, through the streets of Lerwick to the center of town. At the forefront of the procession is the jarl, standing atop a replica Viking longship that is dragged before the marchers.
The burning galley at Up Helly Aa in Lerwick. Anne Burgess. CC BY-SA 2.0.
In a bacchanalian ritual, each reveler carries a lit torch. Upon arrival at the center of Lerwick, the jarl dismounts his ship, built for the occasion, before over 1,000 torches are thrown at the wooden replica. This ceremonial burning occurs as the crowd sings Nordic melodies such as “The Norseman’s Home.” After the ship burns, the party begins. Normal buildings are transformed into revelry halls in which the women provide meals and squads perform for the crowds throughout the night.
Up Helly Aa has a sacred place at the heart of Shetland culture. The festivities continue throughout the winter, and by early fall preparations are in progress for festivities in the new year. As the festival continues in the 21st century, the exclusion of women in formal preparations has drawn criticism. Female activists are demanding change, and perhaps Shetland’s celebration of Viking culture will be more inclusive in the years to come.
Sarah Leidich
Sarah is currently an English and Film major at Barnard College of Columbia University. Sarah is inspired by global art in every form, and hopes to explore the intersection of activism, art, and storytelling through her writing.
