An Explorer’s Guide to Visiting Edinburgh

From hiking up a volcano to ancient stone castles, a travel writer discovers the natural beauty and rich history of the Scottish capital

A view of Edinburgh’s skyline from Calton Hill. Mike McBey. CC BY 2.0.

Named TimeOut magazine’s best city in the world in 2022, Edinburgh is the perfect destination for those looking to experience the natural beauty and history of Scotland. Before visiting for myself, I knew very little about the city past its prestigious university, but I soon discovered how much more the city has to offer than the Loch Ness tours and Fringe Festival performances that initially came to mind. Edinburgh is located on the southeast coast of Scotland, just a 10 minute drive away from the North Sea. An ancient volcano which last erupted around 340 million years ago is responsible for the many volcanic rock formations surrounding the capital, one of which is now home to the city’s Old Town district.

Victoria Street is said to have been the inspiration for Diagon Alley in J.K. Rowling’s Harry Potter book series. Ralf Steinberger. CC BY 2.0.

Bird’s eye view shots of Edinburgh are often marked by a scattering of towering gothic constructions, but exploring the labyrinth of the Old Town was at the top of my list. In order to protect and preserve its impressive display of traditional British reformation-era buildings and rambling cobblestone streets, Edinburgh’s Old Town became a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1995. It stands in contrast to the city’s New Town in the north, which was constructed entirely in the Georgian style between the 1760s and the 1830s. The Old Town’s beautiful spread of architecture houses museums, galleries, ancient churches and shops, with Victoria Street being a favorite of mine because of its historic stone arches and colorful storefronts.

Exploring the area by foot is a must — I discovered countless hidden alleyways tucked between shops that led to smaller churches and hidden cloisters that were built hundreds of years ago. Spreading throughout the district, countless pubs make it a favorite among those looking to get a taste of Scotland’s national drink: whisky. Those under the age of 18, however, can happily enjoy the unofficial national drink of Irn Bru, a non-alcoholic soft drink first brewed according to a secret recipe back in 1901.

Edinburgh Castle sits at the very top of Castle Hill and looks out over the city from the West. Kim Traynor. CC BY-SA 2.0.

Perched on a volcanic rock outcrop sits Edinburgh Castle, with its ancient stone towers and turrets looking down over the Old Town. Fortunately, I booked tickets ahead of time and got to pass the huge crowds at the entrance, and visiting around midday when most people are stopping for lunch also allowed for a much more private exploration of the castle grounds. Depending on the part in question, sections of the castle date back to the 12th century, with newer additions being constructed by various monarchs over the next few centuries. I was able to get up close and personal with the Scottish Crown Jewels, and witnessed the daily firing of a cannon at 1 pm before touring the National War Museum, all set against the backdrop of Edinburgh’s eclectic skyline and the shoreline in the distance.

Holyrood Palace sits at the end of the Royal Mile and is the official Scottish residence of the British Monarch. Adam Fagen. CC BY-NC-SA 2.0.

Edinburgh’s other royal residence sits at the base of the ancient volcano responsible for the city’s unique geography. Still in use by the royal family today, Holyrood Palace was originally built by King James IV in 1503 upon his marriage into the British Monarchy. Very little remains of the original buildings as subsequent royals amended and added to the palace during their reigns. While generally open to the public year round barring royal visits to the Scottish capital, I chose to enjoy the palace’s facade from its visitor’s cafe, where a beautiful view of the Scottish Parliament building across the road can be seen. A short walk to the palace’s rear brought me to the entrance to a large park, which used to be part of the palace grounds but is now available for public use as well.

A view of Edinburgh from the top of Arthur’s Seat. Euan Marley. CC BY-NC-ND 2.0.

Surrounding the palace is Holyrood Park, home to the rocky spires of the Salisbury Crags and Arthur’s Seat, the remains of a now-dormant volcano. I made sure to familiarize myself with the various hiking trails to the volcano’s summit as signage within the actual park was very limited. Some of these routes were specifically for those looking to visit with their bikes, while others allowed for a much more leisurely stroll through the park’s meadows. The park also has a rich history: en route to the top of the 251 meter tall (roughly 823 feet) mountain lies the ruins of a medieval chapel and agricultural terraces from the Bronze Age. I came upon these sites by accident as they are not located along the main routes but are still easily accessible. Reaching the summit took just over half an hour, and the incredible 360 degree views of Edinburgh, and the surrounding towns were well worth the climb. A word of warning: despite visiting on a relatively warm and sunny day in the middle of the summer, the winds at the summit were still incredibly strong and should not be underestimated!

The National Monument is located at the top of Calton Hill. Culture Map. CC BY-NC 2.0.

For those looking for picturesque views of Edinburgh’s skyline without an hour long hike, Calton Hill is a perfect alternative. Also known as “Edinburgh’s Acropolis”, the 10 minute walk along a paved road to the top was significantly easier than the climb up Arthur’s Seat. Once at the top, I discovered the Collective Gallery, a contemporary art center that cycles through exhibits by local Scottish artists, as well as a luxury boutique restaurant with stunning views of the city. Also on the hill are the National and Nelson Monuments, the former being dedicated to Scottish soldiers who perished in the Napoleonic Wars. The monument was intended to be an exact replica of the Parthenon down to the exact dimensions of each block of stone. Unfortunately, the monument was only half finished when work stopped in 1829 and was never completed, though the part that stands today still forms an impressive and iconic part of Edinburgh’s skyline.

Nelson’s Monument stands in front of the Edinburgh skyline as seen from the top of Calton Hill. Andrew Colin. CC BY 2.0.

More than anything, I was surprised by how well Edinburgh was able to marry its incredible history with modern luxuries and infrastructure. It is a city of contrasts tucked in between rocky volcanic hills and the vast North sea, with Michelin-starred restaurants housed in old Georgian townhouses, and traditional tartan sold alongside extravagant cashmere. You can just as easily enjoy a plate of traditional haggis in an ultra-modern gastropub as you can take in a Shakespeare play in the newly renovated King’s Theater Dome. My visit, while only 3 days long, was jam packed with experiences unique to Edinburgh’s distinctive geography, history and culture. There is truly something to interest everyone and more, if you are willing to go off the beaten track and venture down an intriguing cobblestone alleyway or two.

Tanaya Vohra

Tanaya is an undergraduate student pursuing a major in Public Health at the University of Chicago. She's lived in Asia, Europe and North America and wants to share her love of travel and exploring new cultures through her writing.

Stargazing in Scotland’s Cairngorms National Park

Scotland’s Cairngorms National Park, which has been awarded the status of “International Dark Sky Park” for its low levels of light pollution, is a hot spot for stargazing in the UK.

Looking out over the Cairngorms National Park. Rab Lawrence. CC BY-NC-ND 2.0.

Tomintoul and Glenlivet in Cairngorms National Park (which were awarded international Dark Sky Park status in November 2018) are known for their location as the most northerly Dark Sky Park in the world. And, as one of the darkest skies in the UK, it is the perfect place to see the Perseid meteor showers, making it a hot spot for nighttime photographers and those interested in observing the night sky.

Away from street residential lights, the Cairngorms’ clear skies and northern latitude (the same latitude as Norway and Alaska) means that it’s also one of the best places in the world to see the Aurora Borealis, or the Northern Lights. But for normal stargazing, the best time to visit is during the darker months of the year from October to March.

Although it may be easier to see the stars with a telescope or camera, no equipment is necessary to see the vast expanse of stars in the Cairngorms’ night sky. Even neighboring galaxies and the Milky Way can be seen with just your eyes.

The Cairngorms offer a network of waymarked paths through Glenlivet Estate to guide photographers to many vantage points with big skies and distant horizons. There are also three designated Dark Sky discovery sites in the area.

Cairngorms National Park. Cliff Hellis. CC BY-NC-ND 2.0.

The main reason that such stargazing is possible from the Cairngorms is because of its low light pollution—something that some communities in the park have worked hard to achieve. The Tomintoul and Glenlivet area has even been awarded the desired International Dark Sky Gold Tier status.

Local volunteers in the Tomintoul and Glenlivet area are committed to reducing light pollution through their Dark Skies Project. Volunteers work with farms, distilleries, Moray District Council and households to reduce light pollution by promoting environmentally responsible lighting. Their efforts will bring many benefits to wildlife, energy consumption and human health while preserving the beauty of the night sky.

In addition, Cairngorms’ designation as an International Dark Sky Park will help promote dark skies to a wider audience and bring astro-tourism business to the remote areas of Tomintoul and Glenlivet during the off-season when stargazing is at its best.

Funding for the Dark Skies Project comes from The National Lottery with support from the Cairngorms National Park Authority and Crown Estate Scotland.

Read more about the Dark Skies Project here.

Isabelle Durso

Isabelle is an undergraduate student at Boston University currently on campus in Boston. She is double majoring in Journalism and Film & Television, and she is interested in being a travel writer and writing human-interest stories around the world. Isabelle loves to explore and experience new cultures, and she hopes to share other people's stories through her writing. In the future, she intends to keep writing journalistic articles as well as creative screenplays.

Nordic and Celtic Traditions in Scotland’s Shetland Islands

Shetland ponies in a field on one of the Shetland Islands. Infinite Ache. CC BY-NC 2.0.

Located 110 miles northeast of the Scottish mainland are the Shetland Islands, a sub-Arctic archipelago in the north Atlantic Ocean. The islands, with a population of 22,920 centered around the town of Lerwick, are home to one of the most unique cultures in the British Isles, with the islands’ residents maintaining a blend of Nordic and Celtic influences.

While travel to the archipelago is largely limited due to the ongoing COVID-19 pandemic, following the global crisis, any traveler looking to take the road less traveled will find joy in visiting the Shetland Islands. Given the region’s rich history, diverse local culture and beautiful wildlife, the farthest north region of Scotland should not be overlooked when planning future adventures abroad.

A History of Nordic and Celtic Tradition

A parade through Lerwick during Up Helly Aa, an annual Shetland fire festival which pays tribute to the archipelago’s Viking origins. Vicky Brock. CC BY-SA 2.0.

While humans have inhabited the Shetland Islands since at least 2700 B.C., with evidence to suggest that the Romans knew about the archipelago during the height of their empire, modern Shetland culture began at the end of the 9th century A.D. with the colonization of the archipelago and the nearby Orkney Islands by Vikings from Scandinavia.

The Shetland Islands would remain under Norse rule for around 600 years, during which the islands’ population Christianized and gained a grounding for the region’s culture that is still seen to this day. For instance, remnants of Norn, the predominant language of the time but one that is now extinct, has influenced the Shetland dialect spoken in the region. Likewise, festivals such as Up Helly Aa, an annual midwinter fire festival which honors pagan and Christian traditions, can trace their roots back directly to Viking colonialism.

Following several centuries of conflict and growing Scottish influence in the region, sovereignty over the archipelago was sold to Scotland in 1468. This transfer of power, which lasted until 1707 when Scotland and England joined together under the name Great Britain, saw the adoption of more Celtic customs, as well as increased trade with the rest of Europe. The introduction of folk music, the cuisine of the region, and the English language can trace their origins back to this time period.

Into the contemporary era, the Nordic and Celtic cultures and heritage have blended together. This is represented in the aforementioned festivals and language of the region, as well as in the archipelago’s civil parish names, which feature both Old Norse and Celtic origins.

Visiting the Shetland Islands

Lerwick, the Shetland Islands’ largest settlement and only town. Balou46. CC BY-SA 4.0.

Given how remote the Shetland Islands are in comparison to the rest of Scotland, visitors to the islands can either arrive via a 12-hour overnight boat ride from Aberdeen, or by plane from one of six cities in Scotland or from Bergen, Norway.

Once on the archipelago, visitors have a number of experiences to partake in. Lerwick is home to a number of festivals throughout the year, including the Shetland Folk Festival, the Shetland Accordion and Fiddle Festival, and the largest celebration of Up Helly Aa. Likewise, the town is home to the Shetland Museum and Archives, which is dedicated to documenting the unique history and traditions of the region.

Venturing away from Lerwick, travelers can take in the untouched nature of the islands in one of three national nature reserves, the most popular being the Hermaness National Nature Reserve, a seabird colony on the island of Unst. For those more interested in the island’s oceanic location, Lonely Planet recommends kayaking, sailing and surfing for those who can brave the frigid waters of the north Atlantic.

For a taste of the local cuisine, the archipelago offers a number of highly recommended restaurants. Steamed lemon sole from The Dowry, reestit mutton soup from Peerie Shop Cafe, and saucermeat, a spiced breakfast sausage, from Fjara Cafe Bar, are all favorites among travelers and locals alike.

The Shetland Islands represent the best of what Scotland as a whole has to offer. The archipelago’s rich history, unique culture and variety of experiences offer something for everyone to enjoy. Following the pandemic, a visit to the Shetland Islands is a must for any world traveler.

Jacob Sutherland

Jacob is a recent graduate from the University of California, San Diego. Previously, he worked for The UCSD Guardian, serving both as News Editor and a columnist. In addition to his work at Catalyst, he writes the online column, PC Princess, and centers his writing around social justice issues.


Scotland Creates £5.2m Initiative for Free Sanitary Products

As part of the growing effort to end period poverty, Scotland provides students with free sanitary products.

University of Glasgow is one of the universities in Scotland now providing free sanitary products to students. Michael D. Beckwith. CC0 1.0

Only a few weeks ago, the Scottish government announced a £5.2 million ($6.4 million) initiative to provide students with free sanitary products. The scheme is part of a national effort to “banish the scourge of period poverty” by ensuring that no student’s health, studies, or wellbeing are affected by not having adequate access to sanitary products.

Scotland’s action is a first in world history and will provide all of the country’s 395,000 students with free pads and tampons beginning this September.

According to a survey of 2,000 by Young Scot, 1 in 4 people at schools and universities across Scotland have difficulty purchasing sanitary products. Another study by Women for Independence showed that one in five women go through period poverty. Because of this lack of access to period products, thousands miss school or have to make their own sanitary products using rags or newspapers, according to Plan International UK.

In a statement, Communities secretary Aileen Campbell said that, “In a country as rich as Scotland it’s unacceptable that anyone should struggle to buy basic sanitary products.


“I am proud that Scotland is taking this world-leading action to fight period poverty and I welcome the support of local authorities, colleges and universities in implementing this initiative. Our £5.2m investment will mean these essential products will be available to those who need them in a sensitive and dignified way, which will make it easier for students to full focus on their studies.”

The government is partnering with the Convention of Scottish Local Authorities (Cosla), Colleges Scotland, Universities Scotland, and the Scottish Funding Council, to make the initiative a reality. Hey Girls, a social enterprise company, is serving as the provider for the scheme. The company’s founder, Celia Hodson, told the Guardian that the initiative is “a real milestone in the fight against period poverty.”

While ultimately the initiative will only be able to serve students, according to Cosla president Alison Evison, “it will also contribute to a more open conversation and reducing the unnecessary stigma associated with periods.”

“Periods are a part of life, they shouldn’t be a point of inequality, compromise someone’s quality of life or be a distraction from making the very most of time spent at university, so this is a positive step,” Susannah Lane, the head of public affairs at Universities Scotland.

Monica Lennon, Scottish Labour MSP and the member responsible for a bill creating a statutory duty for free feminine hygiene products told the press that, “This is another great step forward in the campaign against period poverty. Access to period products should be a right, regardless of your income, which is why I am moving ahead with plans for legislation to introduce a universal system of free access to period products for everyone in Scotland.


“No one should face the indignity of being unable to access these essential products to manage their period.”

 


EMMA BRUCE is an undergraduate student studying English and marketing at Emerson College in Boston. While not writing she explores the nearest museums, reads poetry, and takes classes at her local dance studio. She is passionate about sustainable travel and can't wait to see where life will take her.