Buried Tragedy: The Slums Beneath the Streets of Edinburgh

A long-buried mini-city beneath the streets of Edinburgh sheds light on the lives of its 19th century poor

The Edinburgh Vaults. fw42, CC BY 2.0

The city of Edinburgh is known for its gorgeous architecture, rich history and fascinating culture, and over many years has become a prime destination for tourists visiting Scotland. But beneath the Royal Mile lie hidden catacombs and an unsettling history of poverty and crime.

Despite being used as a prime spot for chintzy “ghost tours”, the underground city (referred to varyingly as the Edinburgh Vaults and South Bridge Vaults) has a rich and tragic history. It was constructed back in 1788 as part of the South Bridge Act, which was an attempt to make the rapidly-growing city more traversable. The bridge wasn’t only for travel, however; the arches under the bridge were home to tenement buildings designed to turn the area into a marketplace. The nearly 120 individual vaults became taverns, workshops and storage units for merchants.

Storage in the Edinburgh Vaults. Kjetil Bjornsrud, CC BY-SA 2.5

However, these vaults were not properly sealed against water and eventually started to flood, leading to most businesses completely abandoning them before the turn of the century. The rooms were left largely empty as the Industrial Revolution swept across Britain, and eventually became slum housing for the city’s poor. As jobs began to be automated, more and more citizens were without income and found themselves unable to pay for their homes, sending them out onto the streets and, eventually, down to the South Bridge Vaults.

Since the vaults were almost totally blocked off, many of them were without air circulation and sunlight. This, coupled with a lack of running water and sanitation, made living down in the vaults a waking nightmare. Over time, the vaults became more and more crowded, with many housing several families at once.

A recreation of living conditions in the Vaults. Shadowgate, CC BY 2.0

The vaults were also entirely avoided by the city police. As a result, they became a hotspot for all kinds of crime, from theft and prostitution to murder and body snatching. Rumors have circulated for years that a pair of notorious serial killers used the vaults to store corpses that they would later sell to medical schools for use in classes. While the killings did occur, there is no evidence that the criminals actually used the vaults to store their victims.

It is unknown exactly when the vaults were finally shut down. At some point, they were cleared out and sealed off with rubble to prevent new inhabitants. The vaults were left completely forgotten underneath the city until being discovered and excavated in the 1980s. In the years since, various clubs and venues have taken up residence in the vaults, but the vast majority are still used for ghost tours.

The history of these vaults is overshadowed by the pop-culture appeal of their supposed hauntings, but their very existence shines a light on the grim conditions faced by the poor in the 19th century. The appalling conditions in which these impoverished people lived is bad enough, but the indifference shown by the city’s government was far worse, letting criminals run rampant and leaving entire families essentially trapped in the sunless, disease-ridden catacombs. Today, the vaults serve as a reminder of the shortcomings of industrialism and the suffering endured by the poor around the world throughout history.

Though much of the vault network is still closed off to the public, there are many different tour companies in the city that guide visitors through the accessible rooms. Despite being billed most often as “ghost tours,” the guides are more than receptive to questions about the vaults’ history and tend to spend just as much time describing the vaults themselves as the ghosts that ostensibly still haunt them. Mercat Tours, a well-regarded historical tour company in Edinburgh, does adults-only evening tours regularly, with ticket prices around $28.

Ryan Livingston

Ryan is a senior at The College of New Jersey, majoring in English and minoring in marketing. Since a young age, Ryan has been passionate about human rights and environmental action and uses his writing to educate wherever he can. He hopes to pursue a career in professional writing and spread his message even further.

Fairies and Folklore: The Magic of Scotland and England

From castles to coves, uncover destinations steeped in the mythological histories of Scotland and England.

Portree, Isle of Skye’s capital city. CC BY 3.0

Whether your knowledge of fairies comes from nostalgic childhood tales or the well-informed worldbuilding of Tolkein, much of the folklore that has made its way into the popular imagination is embedded deep within the rolling hills of Scotland and England.  

While each country has its variations of the myth, taking a tour through the whimsical high grassed countryside and rocky shores is a great way to take in some awe-inspiring views and understand the magic embedded in these countries.

Scotland

Located off of Scotland's northwest coast, the Isle of Skye is full of picturesque villages, cliffed shores and quaint fishing towns. But rather than only enjoying the colorful coastal houses on Portree, the island's capital, extend your adventure and visit various sights around the island boasting mythical pedigrees.

Fairy Pools

A waterfall at the Fairy Pools on the Isle of Skye. CC BY 3.0

A waterfall phenomenon in Glen Brittle, the falls are surrounded by sky-capped mountains and boast aqua-blue waters of astonishing clarity. Some claim if you’re lucky, you may spot a fae or two amongst the willowing grasses and purple flowers; if not, the red deer, sheep, and rabbits inhabiting the area will have to suffice.

The pool's name comes from the local legend that claims a Clan McLeod Chief married a fairy Princess. Additionally, the pools are said to attract selkies, a group of mythical creatures that spend the day on the coast as seals and then enjoy the pools at night after transitioning to human form. 

Despite their charm, the Fairy Pools feature some brutally cold water temperatures, although it may be worthwhile to take a dip; as locals say, holding your head underwater for seven seconds is enough to bless you with the gift of eternal youth.

From the capital city of Portree, the Fairy Pools are a 35-minute drive and can be accessed through various tours operating on the island or of your own volition. The Fairy Pools walk is a 1.5-mile, easy hike to the pools from the parking lot.

Dunvegan Castle and Gardens

The Dunvegan Castle. CC BY-NC-ND 2.0 DEED

Open from March 29 to October 15, the Dunvegan Castle and Gardens is a medieval fortress dating back to the 1200s. Occupied by the same family for the last 800 years, the Hebridean castle is home to a few pieces of myth. On the Dunvegan property, one can walk across Fairy Bridge while exploring the grounds and even see the Fairy Flag, which is housed in the Castle.

The Fairy Flag is the prized silk scarf woven in the 4th century AD, either in Syria or Rhodes, and is said to possess miraculous powers instrumental in MacLeod’s battle victories. While there are two points of origin, a fairy origin and a crusader origin, the Fairy Bridge and Tower versions give the flag roots in folklore.

The Fairy Tower myth tells the tale of a restless MacLeod chief’s baby who was comforted one night by a fairy. The Fairy Bridge myth relates to the previously mentioned story of the MacLeod Chief and Fairy Princess; the story goes that the two parted ways on Fairy Bridge at Dunvegan, and the banner was his gift.

An astounding horticultural destination, Dunvegan boasts multiple gardens and woodland trails. The landscape and fauna are a wonder unto themselves. The gardens also feature lily ponds, gazebos and rare artifacts, such as a 17th-century sundial.

Located a 30-minute drive from Portree, the castle makes for an excellent excursion when visiting Scotland. While the Dunvegan Castle and Gardens offers visitor tours daily and make for a great day trip, the property's five holiday cottages allow visitors to enjoy an enchanting multi-day stay on the secluded property.

Fairy Glen

The labyrinth and peak at Fairy Glen on the Isle of Skye. CC BY NC-2.0

Protruding from the surrounding farmlands, Fairy Glen is a geographical landscape formed by an ancient landslide. The craggy formations and valleys are blanketed by a lush layer of green and are rumored to be home to the fae.  

Climbing up Fairy Glen’s peak or walking beneath the cover of moss-engulfed trees will make anyone feel like they are walking amongst the faeries. Be sure to stop and make a wish at the stone labyrinth when you are making your way through.

Fairy Glen is about a 25-minute drive from Portree, and various tours include this location as a stop. From the destination's parking lot there is a one-mile walking circuit that showcases the grounds, but feel free to adventure on your own and enjoy this majestic landscape.

England

On the rugged Southwestern tip of England, Cornwall is home to many of the country's mythical and folktales. Cornwall has its own variety of fairies, the Piskeys, a lively and mischievous people who originated from tales of a Pygmy race in Cornwall during the Neolithic period. More than just fairies, Cornwall is rumored to be home to mermaids, giants, and various King Arthur myths.

Sennen Cove

The coastline and surrounding shore at Sennen Cove. CC BY-SA 4.0 DEED.

England’s most westerly beach, Sennen Cove, is a white sand beach renowned for its excellent surfing conditions. In the early 20th century, American Anthropologist Walter Evan Wentz published "The Fairy Faith In Celtic Countries", conducting some of his research at Sennen Cove by speaking to locals about the dancing fairies. A study published at a similar time in the Journal of the Society for Psychic Research tells the story of Grace Penrose as written by E. Westlake. She speaks of miniature people in white dancing in the moonlight before being frightened and disappearing into a rock face along the shore.

To get to Sennen Cove, visitors can take a bus that leaves every two hours from Penzance or make the 20-minute drive themselves. Once at the Cove, you can enjoy Whitesands Bay, the stretch of white sand beach on the Cove’s coast. Overlooking the cove, stop at the Old Success Inn, a pub dating back to the 17th century, for lunch and drink. The Inn has a rich history in Sennen Cove and is rumored to be a site for mermaid sightings.

Elusive in nature, when visiting Sennen Cove, you may not stumble upon any fairies in the moonlight or catch a glimpse of mermaid tales ducking under the blue waves, but the Cove is perfect for a beach getaway anyway.

St. Michael’s Mount

The castle and causeway leading up to St. Michael’s Mount. CC BY-SA 3.0 DEED

A tidal island in Cornwall’s Mount Bay, St. Michael’s Mount is home to one of England’s most famous legends. Rumors of mermaids luring sailors to the island’s shores date as far back as 495 AD, but even more prominent is the Cornish tale of Jack the Giant Killer. With the island as his home, the evil Cormoran was defeated by none other than Jack after a long reign of terror. Per the legend, when visiting, be sure to hike up the mountain and around the island in search of the giant's missing stone heart.

Outside of folklore, the site is also a religious destination. Archangel Michael was rumored to have guided sailors to safety at the current location of the castle’s entry. Named after that patron saint of fishermen, St. Michael’s causeway allows travelers and pilgrims alike to walk from the mainland to the island during low tide.

To reach the island, walking over the causeway is one option; however, if it happens to be high tide, from March 29 to October 31 there are boats running from Marazion Beach to the island. Riddled with history, the castle, church and surrounding gardens offer a fusion of folk and faith, making Mount St. Michael a beautiful, enchanting destination on a Celtic fairytale tour.

Nicola is studying English Literature at George Washington University, where she also reports for the student newspaper, The Hatchet. Nicola's passion for literature and writing has sparked an interest in exploring the broader context surrounding written texts. Researching and writing for Catalyst Planet allows her to investigate nuanced issues that intersect with her interests in art history, culinary practices, and cultural traditions.


Nicola is studying English Literature at George Washington University, where she also reports for the student newspaper, The Hatchet. Nicola's passion for literature and writing has sparked an interest in exploring the broader context surrounding written texts. Researching and writing for Catalyst Planet allows her to investigate nuanced issues that intersect with her interests in art history, culinary practices, and cultural traditions.


Nicola is studying English Literature at George Washington University, where she also reports for the student newspaper, The Hatchet. Nicola's passion for literature and writing has sparked an interest in exploring the broader context surrounding written texts. Researching and writing for Catalyst Planet allows her to investigate nuanced issues that intersect with her interests in art history, culinary practices, and cultural traditions. Nicola is studying English Literature at George Washington University, where she also reports for the student newspaper, The Hatchet. Nicola's passion for literature and writing has sparked an interest in exploring the broader context surrounding written texts. Researching and writing for Catalyst Planet allows her to investigate nuanced issues that intersect with her interests in art history, culinary practices, and cultural traditions.

Nicola Degregorio

Nicola is studying English Literature at George Washington University, where she also reports for the student newspaper, The Hatchet. Nicola's passion for literature and writing has sparked an interest in exploring the broader context surrounding written texts. Researching and writing for Catalyst Planet allows her to investigate nuanced issues that intersect with her interests in art history, culinary practices, and cultural traditions.

Climate Activists protest UN Conference in Glasgow

At the 26th United Nations conference, hundreds of protesters demonstrate their dissatisfaction with world leaders’ actions on climate change.

For 26 years, the United Nations Climate Conference has gathered the world’s leaders to discuss climate change as a global issue. The 2021 climate conference (COP26) was held in Glasgow, Scotland. The United Nations conference in 2015 signed the pivotal Paris Climate agreement. The Paris Agreement was supposed to be a monumental step toward global action on climate change. In reality, it was the first time all countries in the UN  acknowledged and agreed to limit global warming. In accordance with the Paris Agreement, each signed country was to bring its own plan to lower emissions and  secure its own funds to do so. 

The Paris Agreement and the United Nations conference as a whole had maintained global status leading up to the 2021 conference when fears about climate change were mounting among their citizens. Among the world leaders present, 25,000 delegates from 200 countries present at the conference to represent their respective countries.

On Wednesday, November 3, protesters gathered outside the SSE energy building in Glasgow. The protesters were organized by a group called Extinction Rebellion. The climate activist group is an international organization that aims to push governments toward immediate  action against climate change. The November 3rd protest was a march against ‘greenwashing,’ when companies and major organizations claim to be eco-friendly but are failing to take tangible action. Five protesters were arrested; two of the arrests took place after police officers were sprayed with paint. However, aside from the few arrests, the majority of the protesters were peaceful and compliant with the police’s requests.

The greenwashing protest took place on the third day of the climate summit when world leaders were gathered to discuss the finances to address global action regarding climate change. A group of investors pledged to commit 130 trillion in private capital to reach the looming net-zero goal. Despite this pledge, activists remained skeptical, as evident by the hundreds that took to the streets. 

The United Kingdom hosts the 2021 conference, and the country brings the goal of having the participants commit to net zero emissions by 2050, as first stated in the 2015 Paris Agreement. Notably, this goal falls 25 years short of Extinction Rebellion’s stated demands that greenhouse gas emissions reach net zero by 2025. Extinction Rebellion’s protests respond to the 25 previous conferences failing to deliver on their initiatives, stating via their website that “XR will continue demanding immediate action to tackle the climate and ecological emergency in the run up to, during and beyond COP26.”

Dana Flynn

Dana Flynn is a recent graduate from Tufts University with a degree in English. While at Tufts she enjoyed working on a campus literary magazine and reading as much as possible. Originally from the Pacific Northwest, she loves to explore and learn new things.

Stargazing in Scotland’s Cairngorms National Park

Scotland’s Cairngorms National Park, which has been awarded the status of “International Dark Sky Park” for its low levels of light pollution, is a hot spot for stargazing in the UK.

Looking out over the Cairngorms National Park. Rab Lawrence. CC BY-NC-ND 2.0.

Tomintoul and Glenlivet in Cairngorms National Park (which were awarded international Dark Sky Park status in November 2018) are known for their location as the most northerly Dark Sky Park in the world. And, as one of the darkest skies in the UK, it is the perfect place to see the Perseid meteor showers, making it a hot spot for nighttime photographers and those interested in observing the night sky.

Away from street residential lights, the Cairngorms’ clear skies and northern latitude (the same latitude as Norway and Alaska) means that it’s also one of the best places in the world to see the Aurora Borealis, or the Northern Lights. But for normal stargazing, the best time to visit is during the darker months of the year from October to March.

Although it may be easier to see the stars with a telescope or camera, no equipment is necessary to see the vast expanse of stars in the Cairngorms’ night sky. Even neighboring galaxies and the Milky Way can be seen with just your eyes.

The Cairngorms offer a network of waymarked paths through Glenlivet Estate to guide photographers to many vantage points with big skies and distant horizons. There are also three designated Dark Sky discovery sites in the area.

Cairngorms National Park. Cliff Hellis. CC BY-NC-ND 2.0.

The main reason that such stargazing is possible from the Cairngorms is because of its low light pollution—something that some communities in the park have worked hard to achieve. The Tomintoul and Glenlivet area has even been awarded the desired International Dark Sky Gold Tier status.

Local volunteers in the Tomintoul and Glenlivet area are committed to reducing light pollution through their Dark Skies Project. Volunteers work with farms, distilleries, Moray District Council and households to reduce light pollution by promoting environmentally responsible lighting. Their efforts will bring many benefits to wildlife, energy consumption and human health while preserving the beauty of the night sky.

In addition, Cairngorms’ designation as an International Dark Sky Park will help promote dark skies to a wider audience and bring astro-tourism business to the remote areas of Tomintoul and Glenlivet during the off-season when stargazing is at its best.

Funding for the Dark Skies Project comes from The National Lottery with support from the Cairngorms National Park Authority and Crown Estate Scotland.

Read more about the Dark Skies Project here.

Isabelle Durso

Isabelle is an undergraduate student at Boston University currently on campus in Boston. She is double majoring in Journalism and Film & Television, and she is interested in being a travel writer and writing human-interest stories around the world. Isabelle loves to explore and experience new cultures, and she hopes to share other people's stories through her writing. In the future, she intends to keep writing journalistic articles as well as creative screenplays.

Nordic and Celtic Traditions in Scotland’s Shetland Islands

Shetland ponies in a field on one of the Shetland Islands. Infinite Ache. CC BY-NC 2.0.

Located 110 miles northeast of the Scottish mainland are the Shetland Islands, a sub-Arctic archipelago in the north Atlantic Ocean. The islands, with a population of 22,920 centered around the town of Lerwick, are home to one of the most unique cultures in the British Isles, with the islands’ residents maintaining a blend of Nordic and Celtic influences.

While travel to the archipelago is largely limited due to the ongoing COVID-19 pandemic, following the global crisis, any traveler looking to take the road less traveled will find joy in visiting the Shetland Islands. Given the region’s rich history, diverse local culture and beautiful wildlife, the farthest north region of Scotland should not be overlooked when planning future adventures abroad.

A History of Nordic and Celtic Tradition

A parade through Lerwick during Up Helly Aa, an annual Shetland fire festival which pays tribute to the archipelago’s Viking origins. Vicky Brock. CC BY-SA 2.0.

While humans have inhabited the Shetland Islands since at least 2700 B.C., with evidence to suggest that the Romans knew about the archipelago during the height of their empire, modern Shetland culture began at the end of the 9th century A.D. with the colonization of the archipelago and the nearby Orkney Islands by Vikings from Scandinavia.

The Shetland Islands would remain under Norse rule for around 600 years, during which the islands’ population Christianized and gained a grounding for the region’s culture that is still seen to this day. For instance, remnants of Norn, the predominant language of the time but one that is now extinct, has influenced the Shetland dialect spoken in the region. Likewise, festivals such as Up Helly Aa, an annual midwinter fire festival which honors pagan and Christian traditions, can trace their roots back directly to Viking colonialism.

Following several centuries of conflict and growing Scottish influence in the region, sovereignty over the archipelago was sold to Scotland in 1468. This transfer of power, which lasted until 1707 when Scotland and England joined together under the name Great Britain, saw the adoption of more Celtic customs, as well as increased trade with the rest of Europe. The introduction of folk music, the cuisine of the region, and the English language can trace their origins back to this time period.

Into the contemporary era, the Nordic and Celtic cultures and heritage have blended together. This is represented in the aforementioned festivals and language of the region, as well as in the archipelago’s civil parish names, which feature both Old Norse and Celtic origins.

Visiting the Shetland Islands

Lerwick, the Shetland Islands’ largest settlement and only town. Balou46. CC BY-SA 4.0.

Given how remote the Shetland Islands are in comparison to the rest of Scotland, visitors to the islands can either arrive via a 12-hour overnight boat ride from Aberdeen, or by plane from one of six cities in Scotland or from Bergen, Norway.

Once on the archipelago, visitors have a number of experiences to partake in. Lerwick is home to a number of festivals throughout the year, including the Shetland Folk Festival, the Shetland Accordion and Fiddle Festival, and the largest celebration of Up Helly Aa. Likewise, the town is home to the Shetland Museum and Archives, which is dedicated to documenting the unique history and traditions of the region.

Venturing away from Lerwick, travelers can take in the untouched nature of the islands in one of three national nature reserves, the most popular being the Hermaness National Nature Reserve, a seabird colony on the island of Unst. For those more interested in the island’s oceanic location, Lonely Planet recommends kayaking, sailing and surfing for those who can brave the frigid waters of the north Atlantic.

For a taste of the local cuisine, the archipelago offers a number of highly recommended restaurants. Steamed lemon sole from The Dowry, reestit mutton soup from Peerie Shop Cafe, and saucermeat, a spiced breakfast sausage, from Fjara Cafe Bar, are all favorites among travelers and locals alike.

The Shetland Islands represent the best of what Scotland as a whole has to offer. The archipelago’s rich history, unique culture and variety of experiences offer something for everyone to enjoy. Following the pandemic, a visit to the Shetland Islands is a must for any world traveler.

Jacob Sutherland

Jacob is a recent graduate from the University of California, San Diego. Previously, he worked for The UCSD Guardian, serving both as News Editor and a columnist. In addition to his work at Catalyst, he writes the online column, PC Princess, and centers his writing around social justice issues.


Scotland Becomes First Country to Provide Free Period Products

The Period Products (Free Provision) (Scotland) Bill requires local authorities and schools to make sanitary materials free and available to all.

A woman passes a menstrual product to another. Annika Gordon. Unsplash.

On Nov. 24, Scotland became the first country to provide free and universal access to period products. In a tweet, the Scottish Labour Party confirmed that the bill had passed unanimously. This historic legislation was approved after a four-year grassroots campaign spearheaded by Scottish Labour’s health spokesperson, Monica Lennon.   

The Period Products (Free Provision) (Scotland) Bill is groundbreaking for several reasons. Not only does it aim to dispel period misconceptions, but it also functions to support individuals who struggle to care for themselves. A 2018 Scottish government study found that roughly 220,000 girls and women between the ages of 12 and 54 lived in relative poverty. Period products can cost about $10.75 per month. Although that might not seem like much, Lennon wrote in the 2017 proposal, “when you have no or very little income, it can be insurmountable.”

According to the United Nations Population Fund, menstruation is also an issue of human rights. Despite its natural occurrence, periods are often stigmatized. Consequently, limited conversations on menstrual health might make it difficult for those in need to seek adequate help. For instance, a December 2017 study condemned the menstrual hygiene plight of homeless women as a “public health disgrace.” Researchers reported that homeless women tend to reuse products despite cleanliness concerns such as toxic shock syndrome. An interviewee shared that her shelter provided only two pads, while the average woman uses approximately 20 pads per cycle.

Consequently, the passage of the Period Products Bill is a stepping-stone toward recognizing the worth of women as well as the unique challenges they face.  

What about other countries?

Like Scotland, China’s women are taking a stand. Jiang Jinjing, a women’s rights advocate, gained prominence after the COVID-19 outbreak hindered the distribution of supplies. She started the campaign Stand by Her in an effort to alleviate period poverty while also destigmatizing menstruation.  Her work has inspired both men and women to set up centers that provide free period products. In at least 338 schools and colleges across the country, boxes and bags of individually wrapped period products have already sprung up in bathrooms. While their network is still growing, Jiang believes that they have planted seeds of change. She also noted that their efforts have helped to normalize words like “pads” and “periods,” which, she notes, is a “huge milestone.”

New Zealand is another country that provides free sanitary products—but only to students enrolled in schools. Miranda Hitchings, a co-founder of Dignity, a nongovernmental organization that gives period products to those in need, lauded the move but emphasized that period poverty encompasses a wider population. While the situation has yet to evolve, New Zealand’s Minister for Women, Julie Anne Genter, recognized that menstruation is a fact of life and that “access to these products is a necessity, not a luxury.”

Moving forward

Ultimately, Scotland’s historic move could prove a necessary spark for many budding efforts around the world. By Jan. 1, 2021, the United Kingdom will no longer tax period products. Countries like Spain and Switzerland are also planning to reduce tampon taxes by about 5%. Until other countries follow suit, making period products free for all remains a key component toward attaining true gender equality. 


Rhiannon Koh

Rhiannon earned her B.A. in Urban Studies & Planning from UC San Diego. Her honors thesis was a speculative fiction piece exploring the aspects of surveillance technology, climate change, and the future of urbanized humanity. She is committed to expanding the stories we tell.