Connecting with Culture: Embracing Food, Tradition and Language in Sri Lanka

October 10, 2024

With ancient Buddhist temples, stories of independence and deep-rooted traditions, Sri Lanka offers a South Asian experience unlike any other.

View from Elephant Sanctuary. Mira White.

The jewel of the Indian Ocean, Sri Lanka is recognized for its abundance of biodiversity and rich culture. Featuring vast rainforests, idyllic beaches and towering mountain ranges, the island is a hotspot for elephants, pink sand beaches and adventurous travelers. Its extensive history bridges the divide between the past and the present.

Living with a host family in Colombo and working for the Sri Lankan grassroots organization, Gammadda, I was able to experience the authenticity of Sri Lankan local life. Sponsored by Brown University, I interned for Gammadda, a group that prides itself on being an initiative “for the people by the people” while traveling across the country to complete rural development projects. Regardless of whether I was with my host family, at the office or in a remote part of the island, I was continuously exposed to an outstanding variety of new cultures, customs and habits.

My ten weeks living in Sri Lanka presented me with the opportunity to immerse myself in various facets of a culture older than any other I’ve experienced. Surrounded by Sinhala, spiced curry and tuk-tuks, I adapted to a lifestyle consumed by the language barrier, a diet of rice and, often, unpredictable transportation. Despite my unfamiliarity with Sri Lankan customs and traditions, I was always welcomed with kindness and understanding.

I arrived at the end of May, near the end of Sri Lanka’s Vesak Festival which celebrates the birth, enlightenment and death of Lord Buddha. The Colombo Bandaranaike International Airport was decorated with traditional flags and lights hanging from the ceiling. Upon my entrance into the country, I was greeted with warm welcomes and joyful smiles from coworkers and my host family, a testament to the real pride that Sri Lankans feel in welcoming internationals to their country.

Arriving at Colombo Bandaranaike International Airport. Mira White.

Living with a host family provided me with an intimate view of Sri Lankan life. Most mornings for the family began with the traditional Sri Lankan breakfast of rice and curry. At dinner, I was introduced to an array of rich spices and flavors and encouraged to try string hoppers, kottu and roti—so long as I could stomach food with intense spice— I could not.

My host family took great joy in seeing me taste their country’s diverse cuisine and were often eager to share with me the components and history of each dish. Aside from the food we shared, they took pride in speaking Sinhala and Tamil around me, hoping I would catch on to some words. They were eager to teach me small bits of the local languages in order to make me feel more integrated into their world. By the end of my trip, I could confidently say that I was familiar with simple phrases and greetings. I was elated to hear someone say “kohomada”—how are you?— when they answered the phone.

The hospitality of my host family extended beyond the dining table. They offered to take me on multiple excursions, highlighting places that showcased the island’s natural beauty. One memorable trip was to the Pinnawala Elephant Orphanage where I had the chance to see and touch elephants up close.

Pinnawala Elephant Orphanage. Mira White.

In the office, camaraderie among my co-workers was one of my most rewarding experiences. Colleagues helped me navigate office culture and even brought me to their homes to help dress me in a traditional Kandyan saree for formal work events, a gesture that made me feel deeply connected to those that I’d met in Sri Lanka and its local traditions.

Beyond the office, co-workers were enthusiastic about sharing their local knowledge. They recommended must-see places and offered to accompany me on several outings to explore the island. They eagerly encouraged me to delve into local traditions and festivals. While on field site trips together, they encouraged me to try different foods and went out of their way to bring me to nearby sites to experience the natural richness of the island. Through their guidance, I gained a deeper understanding of the Sri Lankan business, cultural, and personal life that makes up the nation’s diverse tapestry.

Fieldwork took me to various parts of Sri Lanka, including areas severely impacted by poverty and climate change. The challenges faced by locals were stark—drought, erratic weather and economic hardship painted a sobering picture of life outside of Colombo. Despite the difficult circumstances under which I met those in rural villages, the warmth and gratitude of each individual was remarkable. My co-workers and I were welcomed into homes with genuine hospitality and kindness, often through the form of shared meals.

During projects for the grassroots organization I worked for, locals performed traditional dances and musical performances. These ceremonies provided a glimpse into their cultural heritage, underscoring their determination to preserve the connection to their roots against all odds. The people I encountered lived a life deeply intertwined with their faith and traditions. Their resilient authenticity stood in contrast to the struggles that they faced, demonstrating their profound strength and pride.

During one particular ceremony, I was asked to join project organizers and funders in lighting a ceremonial candle in tribute to the work done. This act had been a gesture of symbolic participation in local customs, connecting me deeply with this specific community and the challenges of its people.

Children in the Koleyaya community. Mira White.

This sense of community was evident in all of my interactions, whether with colleagues, rural children or just observing those on the side of the road. Sri Lanka’s allure as a tourist destination extends far beyond its picturesque landscapes alongside cities such as Kandy or Sigiriya Rock. The island’s cultural richness is reflected in its food, language and music, each of which tells a story of history and pride. Through sampling local cuisine, attending cultural festivals and engaging with the community, visitors are provided with deep insight into how Sri Lankans navigate the complexities of their environment while maintaining an exuberant spirit.

In the face of its challenges, Sri Lankans have cultivated a culture of warmth and hospitality. For those who choose to visit the island, the experience is as much about understanding the cultural landscape as it is about witnessing breathtaking beauty. Sri Lankans’ deep-rooted cultural pride is matched only by their kindness, making every visitor feel like a cherished guest. Beyond its landscape, Sri Lanka offers an opportunity to immerse oneself fully in a culture that thrives on connection and community. The enthusiasm with which locals invite you to explore their traditions, participate in ceremonies, learn the language and experience their daily lives creates a unique journey that I have yet to experience anywhere else. Once you’ve visited Sri Lanka, you become part of a larger family that eagerly awaits your return. Truly, Sri Lanka is more than just the jewel of the Indian Ocean, for visitors, it becomes a home away from home—a transformative experience that will call you back to its shores.

Families in Koleyaya village in Badulla District. Mira White.

Mira White

Mira is a student at Brown University studying international and public affairs. Passionate about travel and language learning, she is eager to visit each continent to better understand the world and the people across it. In her free time she perfects her French, hoping to someday live in France working as a freelance journalist or in international affairs.

Matcha's Roots: The Legacy of Japan's First Tea Tree

October 4, 2024

Explore Shofuku-ji, Japan’s oldest Zen temple, where the legacy of the first tea tree still thrives.

Shofuku-ji Temple. N yotarou. CC BY-SA 4.0

At the end of an unassuming street in Fukuoka, Japan stands the Shofuku-ji Temple. Its ancient grounds are a testament to centuries of cultural and spiritual history, particularly to the evolution of matcha, Japan’s iconic powdered green tea. Matcha is made from specially grown and processed tea leaves. The process begins with shading the tea plants several weeks before harvest to boost chlorophyll levels, resulting in its vibrant green color. The leaves are then carefully picked, steamed to stop oxidation, dried, and ground into a fine powder using traditional stone mills. Matcha's popularity outside Japan, especially in the U.S., experienced a surge in the early 21st century due to a growing interest in health and wellness globally. Its high antioxidant content, culinary versatility, and cultural appeal contributed to its widespread adoption in cafés and homes worldwide.

Shofuku-ji Temple was founded in 1195 CE by the Buddhist priest Myōan Eisai, who is often credited with introducing Zen Buddhism to Japan. However, Eisai’s cultural influence extends beyond religion. Chinese legend dates the invention of tea to around 2737 BCE in ancient China. From China, the beverage was brought to Japan by a mission of monks, including Eisai, returning from a pilgrimage in 1191 CE. Upon arriving in Japan, Eisai cultivated the tea seeds in the Iwakamibo gardens of Ryozen-ji Temple, Saga.

Shofuku-ji Temple Pond. Mark Pegrum. CC BY 2.0

These seeds, which produced the first tea plants in Japan, became the foundation of what is now known as matcha. The plant that stands at Shōouku-ji today, often referred to as "Japan’s First Tea Tree," is a direct descendant of those original plants, a living monument to the history of Japanese tea culture.

When Eisai brought the tea seeds to Japan, he was not merely bringing a new beverage, he was introducing a practice that would become integral to the Zen way of life. The preparation and consumption of matcha evolved into a ritualized practice that aligned perfectly with the principles of mindfulness and presence central to Zen.

Buddha Statue. David McKelvey. CC BY-NC-ND 2.0

Referred to as “the way of tea,” the preparation of tea developed into an exercise of Zen devotion that honored the beauty which can be discovered in an otherwise flawed world. Author and tea expert Solala Towler has said: “It is a ceremony that takes the simple art of drinking tea to a sacred level, where the host and the guests share a moment of worship of the simple art of preparing and drinking of tea together, elevating them to a level of purity and refinement.”

The Jizōdō at Shōfuku-ji. MomoyamaResearch. CC BY-SA 4.0

The word matcha comes from the Japanese verb “matsu”, (to rub or to daub) and “cha” , (tea). In its early form, matcha was consumed as a medicinal drink. Eisai himself wrote about the health properties of tea in his book “Kissa Yojoki” (“Drinking Tea for Health”), where he extolled the virtues of tea for both body and mind.

Eisai believed that tea could cure physical ailments and enhance mental clarity and spiritual well-being, making it an ideal companion for Zen meditation. He realized that drinking matcha improved his meditation sessions by producing a state of calm alertness, likely a product of the cognition-boosting interaction between matcha’s caffeine and L-theanine. Caffeine, a natural stimulant, provides an energy boost. However, caffeine alone can sometimes lead to jitters, increased heart rate, or anxiety. L-theanine, an amino acid found in tea leaves, counters this with its calming effect on the brain. It promotes the production of alpha waves, which are associated with a relaxed yet alert mental state.When consumed together in matcha, caffeine and L-theanine synergize to create a balanced effect.

Shofuku-ji Temple. David McKelvey. CC BY-NC-ND 2.0

For centuries, the practice continued to spread throughout Japan, dispersing throughout all levels of society. Today, the matcha tea ceremony provides an opportunity for intellectual exchange, the sharing of knowledge and the continuity of tradition.

As was written in a collection of essays entitled “The Book of Tea” by Okakura Kakuzo, one of the first Japanese to advocate for the art of tea drinking, “Those who cannot feel the littleness of great things in themselves are apt to overlook the greatness of little things in others,” a sentiment that ties humility in oneself to the appreciation of others and their work, tea among them.

A Sanmon at Shofuku-ji Temple. STA3816. CC BY-SA 3.0

Today, Shofuku-ji Temple remains a serene sanctuary where visitors can connect with the historical and spiritual origins of matcha. The temple grounds, with their carefully maintained gardens and ancient structures (including a Buddhist temple, a kitchen, a Zen hall, a bell tower, a sun and moon garden, a records hall, and more) provide a peaceful setting for reflection upon the past. Visitors can appreciate the tea plant, a living link to Japan’s first tea plants, and the enduring legacy of Eisai’s contributions to Japanese culture.

Generally, Shofukuji Temple is not open to the public. If you are visiting as a group, you must apply one month in advance and receive permission from the temple, even if you just wish to tour the grounds. The application and a guide to the grounds can be found on the temple’s website. The temple is a nationally designated historic site that protects cultural assets and the continuation of the Zen tradition, so visitors are asked to proceed quietly and with care. Visitors may also be asked for a contribution to help protect and restore cultural properties. Applications received less than one month in advance will not be accepted.

GETTING THERE

Shofukuji Temple can be reached in a short walk from Gion Station and a 15-20 minute walk from Hakata Station in Fukuoka. Fukuoka is the sixth largest city in Japan and offers a variety of hotels and transportation methods for visitors.

Rebecca Pictairn

Rebecca studies Italian Language and Literature, Classical Civilizations, and English Writing at the University of Pittsburgh. She hopes to one day attain a PhD in Classical Archeology. She is passionate about feminism and climate justice. She enjoys reading, playing the lyre, and longboarding in her free time.

Tunisia: Discover Ancient Rome in North Africa

September 18, 2024

Thousands of years later, Tunisia’s rich history as part of the Roman empire is still on display.

A view of Carthage Palace in Tunisia. Farah Jack Mustaklem. CC BY-SA 4.0

For many, the word “Rome” evokes images of the city in Italy. Its days as the center of one of the largest empires in history ended millennia ago, and today, popular culture has largely moved on, TikTok memes aside. But the Roman Empire was far bigger than many now imagine, stretching well into the modern-day Middle East and across North Africa. Today, the empire’s ruins remain visible in the furthest reaches of its territories.

Tunisia, for instance, is home to a wealth of ancient Roman history. Sitting on the edge of the Sahara Desert, the African nation has found fame with tourists who admire its gorgeous beaches. However, beyond the nation’s natural beauty and high-quality resort towns, Tunisia's territory was once at the very heart of the Roman empire in Africa. Ranging from the remains of villages to the shell of the great city of Carthage, ancient ruins dot the country’s landscape. Almost every major city features ancient Roman artwork, architecture and history. While Tunisia is gorgeous in its own right, the country possesses a richer history than almost anywhere else in the world.

The best-preserved example of Imperial Rome’s presence in Tunisia is El Jem. Estimated to have held up to 35,000 people at once, El Jem is not only the largest amphitheater in Africa but one of the largest in the world. Incredibly, the entire building is supported by stone arches, the edifice resting on a flat plain with no hills or rises for balance. The structure’s underground passages also remain largely intact, and tours are led daily through the entire grounds of the colosseum.

A panoramic view of El Jem. Diego Delso. CC BY-SA 4.0

Another incredible part of history hidden away just outside the Sahara is the ancient city of Sbeitla, home to some of the best-preserved temples from the Byzantine Empire. Outside Sbeitla, visitors can also tour the ruins of Byzantine public baths, a Roman Forum that houses ancient temples to Minerva, Jupiter and Juno, and a series of Catholic basilicas.

The Roman Forum in Sbeitla. Dennis Jarvis. CC BY 2.0

In addition to its ancient history, Tunisia provides visitors with the unique opportunity to visit the Sahara Desert. Numerous tour companies offer frequent excursions into the desert on camelback. These tours range from day trips to two or more days of camping and bivouacking in traditional Bedouin style. These tours are a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to experience the lifestyle of the nomadic tribes local to Tunisia.

A camelback tour of the Sahara Desert. Vaida Tamošauskaitė. CC0

Despite all of the wonderful experiences that Tunisia presents, there are notable risks to visiting the country as a tourist. As of May 2024, the US Department of State issued a Level 2 travel advisory. This marker warns tourists to avoid certain areas due to increased terrorist activity in countries around Tunisia and the newly declared military zone south of the city of Remada. However, the majority of the country is still considered mostly safe to visit, with only select locations listed at Level 4 or “do not travel.” Tourists should mind the precautions listed in the advisory.

Visitors to Tunisia may be advised to stay in the country’s capital Tunis, a central location which allows easy access to the majority of the destinations listed above. The city offers a variety of hotel options, with prices ranging from $100-300 a night. More affordable options include the Dar Ya hostel in Tunis (priced at around $40 per night) and rentable apartments (from around $35 a night) located just outside the main city.

Ryan Livingston

Ryan is a senior at The College of New Jersey, majoring in English and minoring in marketing. Since a young age, Ryan has been passionate about human rights and environmental action and uses his writing to educate wherever he can. He hopes to pursue a career in professional writing and spread his message even further.

4 of UNESCO’s Newly Named World Heritage Sites

September 6, 2024

Take a closer look at four of UNESCO's most important new World Heritage Sites.

UNESCO building in Paris, France. Fred Romero. CC BY 2.0

The role of the United Nations Educational, Scientific, and Cultural Organization (UNESCO) is to contribute to peace and development around the world, a goal it has embraced through the establishment of numerous World Heritage sites. Located across the globe, these prestigious locations are hand-picked by the agency to retain their immense natural and/or cultural significance. Popular World Heritage sites include the Taj Mahal, the Great Barrier Reef, the Great Pyramid of Giza and the Serengeti National Park. Spanning across 168 countries, there are currently 1223 properties marked as UNESCO World Heritage sites. In alignment with the 1972 World Heritage Convention, UNESCO continues to hold annual meetings to decide what new locations they will adopt to their list. According to UNESCO, the Convention unites the importance of, “nature conservation and the preservation of cultural properties.” The World Heritage Committee’s selection process is centered around a set of policies referred to as the “Five C’s”: credibility, conservation, capacity-building, communication and communities. It is through the analysis of these characteristics that UNESCO establishes a yearly list of exceptional locations worthy of preservation for the continual appreciation of humanity. This year, the 46th session of the World Heritage Committee took place in New Delhi, India during the week of July 21. The session was live-streamed and recorded, providing full transparency to the public on the Committee’s decision to name 24 new World Heritage sites. Below is a closer look at a few of this year’s additions.

Nelson Mandela Legacy Sites, South Africa

Robben Island. South African Tourism. CC BY 2.0

Representing the “legacy of the South African struggle for human rights, liberation, and reconciliation”, the Nelson Mandela Legacy Sites were recently inducted into UNESCO’s list. The Legacy Sites are broken into 14 parts, each place with a special significance. For example, the Sharpeville sites commemorate the massacre of 69 protestors of the Pass Laws which restricted the free movement of Black South Africans in 1952. Other spots include the Mqhekezweni Great Place and the Union Buildings in Pretoria, now the official location of South Africa’s government.

Nelson Mandela Museum in Soweto, South African Tourism, CC By 2.0

Spanning across South Africa, visitors can visit anywhere from one to all fourteen sites. With an entry fee of about $9 per adult, the Apartheid Museum features interactive exhibits and personal stories detailing South Africa’s history. Robben Island, where Mandela was imprisoned for 18 years, offers guided water tours at $22 per person.

Charaideo Maidams, India

Charaideo Maidam. Mozzworld. CC BY-SA 4.0

Created by the Ahoms, an ethnic group in Northern India that once possessed its own indigenous kingdom, “maidams” are large mounds built atop graves. Constructed over a “hollow vault” of earth, these “mounded burial grounds” served as burial grounds for Ahom royalty. This year, Assam’s Charaideo Maidam, a royal burial complex of approximately 90 maidams established over a period of 600 years, was recognized by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site. Spokespeople from the World Heritage Committee’s advisory board ICOMOS proclaimed that, “The [maidams] are an exceptional example of an Ahom necropolis that represents funeral traditions and associated beliefs in a tangible way.” In addition to royals and significant members of Ahom society, maidams may also contain food, horses, elephants, and sometimes the bodies of queens and servants.

Group of four smaller maidams, Dhruba Jyoti Deka, CC BY-SA 3.0

The Charaideo Maidams’ visiting hours are between 9:30 AM to 5:00 PM. According to the Directorate of Archaeology in the Government of Assam, a full tour of the site takes approximately two and half hours. Visitors can purchase entry tickets online ahead of time or on-site for about $3. With public transportation, the Charaideo Maidams is approximately an hour away from Sivasagar, the closest major city.

Badain Jaran Desert, China

Badain Jaran Desert. Rita Willaert. CC BY-NC-SA 2.0

The Badain Jaran Desert can be found in the Alashan Plateau of northwestern China’s desert region. According to UNESCO, “the property stands out with its high density of mega-dunes, intersected with interdunal lakes.” The site’s unique geologic features, “include the world’s tallest, stabilized sand mega-dune (relative relief of 460 meters)’ and the largest expanse of “singing sands” (so-called due to resonance caused by wind moving dry and loose sand). China Discovery classifies the unique terrain of the desert into “five wonders”: the sandy peaks, singing dunes, colorful lakes, clear springs and an ancient temple. At just over 30,000 square miles, the site is the third largest desert in China.

Dunes in Badain Jaran Desert.. Zhoarby. CC BY-SA 3.0

The desert can only be accessed by jeep, with the Zhangye Travel Guide warning travelers of the local agency's monopoly on desert travel The desert features specific tourist attractions, including the Pearl Lake of the Badain Jaran Desert, the Yinderitu (A Magic Spring) and Bilutu Dune, the world’s highest sand dune. The starting fee for entrance into the Badain Jaran Desert is about $30 and $11 for the Badain Lake, not accounting for additional fees for accommodation and guided desert tours.

Flow Country, United Kingdom

View of peatlands in the Flow Country. Andrew Tryon. CC BY-SA 2.0

The first peatlands to be recognized as a World Heritage Site, the Flow Country in Scotland is a massive bog storing about 400 million tons of carbon. A “globally rare” habitat, the Flow Country is immensely environmentally significant. In the Flow Country, carbon is trapped and stored in dead vegetation, preventing it from being released into the atmosphere and causing further environmental harm. Professor Mike Robinsons on the Culture at United Kingdom National Commission for UNESCO highlighted the importance of the site’s environmental impact in its official naming: “World Heritage status recognises the global importance of the Flow Country and its peat bogs, not only as important ecosystem for wildlife, but also through their carbon storage, as a critical defense against the impact of climate change.”

Closer view of a peat pool. Steve Neal. CC BY-SA 2.0

In the Flow Country, there are numerous experiences for interested visitors. The Forsinard Flows Visitor Center features exhibitions and educational films about the area. Nearby the center is the Lochan Dub Trail, a one-mile loop weaving through peat pools and sections of the blanket bog. A longer trail option would be the Forsinain Trail four miles north of the Forsinard train station. For those hoping for a less outdoorsy visit, the Far North Railway Line travels through the Flow Country as well.

Aanya Panyadahundi

Aanya Panyadahundi Aanya is a student at the University of Michigan studying sociology and journalism on a pre-law path. She loves to travel the world whenever she can, always eager to learn more about the different cultures and societies around her. In her free time, she likes to play the violin, ski, and listen to podcasts.

5 Must-Visit Speakeasies Across the Globe

August 27, 2024

Inspired by the American Prohibition era, speakeasies exist in the most unconventional places today.

Liquor raid by sheriff’s department circa 1925. Gleason W. Romer. CC0

Prohibition was a result of the 18th amendment of the U.S. Constitution in 1919, which stated that, “The manufacture, sale, or transportation of intoxicating liquors within, the importation thereof into, or the exportation thereof from the United States and all territory subject to the jurisdiction thereof for beverage purposes is hereby prohibited,” within a years time. The amendment marked a political move that brought dismay to many citizens. Daniel Okrent, author of "Last Call: The Rise and Fall of Prohibition," argues that, “Prohibition became the same sort of political football that people on either side would use trying to struggle to get it towards their goal, which was control of the country," with politicians using the ban and the controversies around it to push other agendas.

Although Prohibition was mainly an American phenomenon, many countries around the world have made, or are currently making, attempts to limit alcohol consumption. Currently, Nordic countries concerned with their citizens’ alcohol intake are resorting to alcohol monopolies, marketing bans and higher taxation to combat it. Japan also struggles with alcoholism, with 60% of alcoholics being businessmen that drink socially to help their careers. With alcohol consumption quadrupling in Japan since 1960, private treatment centers and halfway houses have been popping up to combat the issue.

One of the most recognizable institutions of the Prohibition era was the speakeasies. A speakeasy was a place where alcohol was illegally sold, usually underground or at least out of view due to the danger posed to workers, owners and patrons. Although the 18th amendment was repealed in 1933, speakeasies still exist throughout the United States and the world today. Listed below are five notable and currently operating speakeasies from various major cities.

Evans and Peel Detective Agency

London, England

Bartop and Evans and Peel. Jan Mark Holzer. CC By 2.0.

Located in Chelsea, Evans and Peel is a detective-themed speakeasy. Appointments are booked through the company's website, which tells prospective visitors, “We’re Evans & Peel, a highly renowned Detective duo who operate from our hidden Agency in Chelsea, London. Go beyond our facade and discover our famous secret.” People are given the option to customize their experience, sending the detective agency information about the “case” they wish to consult on. To enter the bar, customers have to ring a buzzer to enter a fake detective’s office and stay in character, explaining that they have, “an appointment with the detective.” They are then guided down a staircase to consult with the detective. Emily Gray from "The Handbook" recalls that, “The Agatha Christie fan that I am, I went into a long story about losing a very expensive earring that had been stolen from a jeweler in the 1920’s (apparently most people say they’ve just lost their cat).” Evans and Peel's drink menu is also outlaw themed, with most of its special cocktails based on some of the biggest real and fictional superstar criminals like Thomas “Tommy” Shelby, Bill McCoy and Al Capone. The "agency" claims to make the “World’s Best Old Fashioned.”

‘Al Capone’ themed drink on the menu. Evans and Peel.

Located at: 310c Earls Court Road, London, SW5 9BA, England

Bank Bar

Manila, Philippines

Manila skyline at night. Thomas Yie. CC BY 2.0

In keeping with its name, the Bank Bar in Metro Manila's Bonifacio Global City has set up shop in the RBCB Savings Bank Corporate Center. A bouncer is waiting inside, next to a small door which opens into a fake stockroom that patrons walk through to enter the bar. Once in, there is a calming and luxurious ambiance. Erica Jahn notes in her review that, “The velvet sofa and candles on the marble table make the place attractive and intimate.” The bar advertises its own drinks drinks as including, “ Inventive cocktails and the widest selection of any bar in Manila” Although located in the Philippines, much of the bar's menu has an American theme. Bank Bar offers pasta, pizza, burgers, steaks, fried chicken and more American classics. The establishment is far from a simple American outpost, however, offering among other indigenous options Chicharon Bulaklak, a traditional Filipino appetizer and street food. Visitors are asked to call ahead and reserve their spots because space is limited and can fill up quickly.

Located at: 26th and 25th Street G/F RCBC Savings Bank Corporate Center, Taguig City, Luzon 1934, Philippines

Janai Coffee

Tokyo, Japan

This Tokyo speakeasy takes on the guise of a traditional coffee bar, hidden behind a secret doorway only the barista knows how to access. At first glance, Janai's website sticks with the coffee theme, offering to-go cups, explaining seasonal coffee bean selection, all while subtly hinting that it might offer more: “We don’t just want to serve coffee. Forget about time. Stop measuring. Don’t compare yourself to others. Take time to relax and forget about your daily routine. A place where you can forget about your daily routine and enjoy coffee to your heart’s content without thinking about anything else.” There is a secret puzzle that has to be solved on their website before being able to make a reservation (a hint—look at the logo). The flipside states their mission as a speakeasy and adds that, “This bar has a wide selection of alcohol that the staff all tasted and selected together. Even if you are not an expert, even if the taste is difficult, you can enjoy Janai Coffee for some ‘just because’ reason such as the cute label or the interesting name.”

Espresso martini from Janai Coffee’s bar, Junki Yoshida.

Located at: 2-3-13 Ebisu, Shibuya, Tokyo, 150-0022

Moonshiner

Paris, France

Continuing the theme of being hidden behind a conventional storefront, the Moonshiner’s entrance is through Da Vito, a small pizza parlor in Paris. The joint's website tells potential visitors, “Shhhh, listen up, music is filtering behind this wall … lower your voice, lighten your steps, and push the door to the cold room … we’ll see you on the other side!” To enter, guests walk into the pizza parlor and head directly to the steel door of a fake meat locker at the back. This speakeasy in particular tends to attract a younger crowd of twenty-to-thirty-year-olds, and a combination of travelers and locals. Their drinks range from classic cocktails like Old Fashioneds to more novel and creative options like “Money Time” or “Back to Basil.” As it is a small space, the bar tends to get very busy. Sara Lieberman from Conde Nast Traveler notes that, “Despite it looking like the type of place you want to sit and sip luxuriously, unless you get there early be prepared to stand and hover over those with seats until other bar-goers finally get up (IF they get up!).” Many bar goers are just stopping by for a drink while waiting for the pizza they ordered on the way in, with Liberman also explaining that, “Moonshiner and the pizza parlor out front—Da Vito—--are more or less one in the same, so if you’re hungry, put your name on the list when you arrive and head to the back for a drink while you wait.”

Old Fashioned at the Back Room. Fiamma Brighi.

Located at: 5 rue Sedaine, 75011, Paris, France.

The Back Room

New York City, United States

Finally, located in the heart of the Big Apple, the Back Room is a speakeasy in New York that has been operating since the Prohibition era. Disguised as the "Lower East Side Toy Company," the Back Room is hidden down a secret staircase in a narrow corridor. There are no clear indications to the entrance and a variety of staircases are involved before visitors find themselves at the door of the bar. In order to enter, a weekly password from the official Bank Room website is required. Once entered, the bartenders serve drinks in a traditional Prohibition-era style—cocktails are served in teacups and beers in brown paper bags, disguising their true contents. The Back Room was predated by Ratner’s Backroom, which was opened in 1908 in the same location. Owner Johnny Barounis has said that it used to be a popular meeting spot for many Jewish gangsters due to its convenient location, saying, “If somebody came in and was being double crossed or there was a hit going on, there were so many different ways out if you knew the space. You could [even] hop the roofs all the way to Rivington.” The general appearance of the Back Room is luxurious, straying away from the traditional rough appearance speakeasies had due to fear that cops would overturn the establishment at any given point. Barouis calls it, “My bastardized version of these old 1920s ballrooms fused with a speakeasy.” The decor incorporates 1920s cigarette dispensers, mutoscopes, chandeliers, hardwood floors and other period-accurate details.

The Back Room’s luxurious decor, Troy Hahn.

Located at: 102 Norfolk Street, New York City, NY, 10002-3310

Eco-Villages: 6 Unique Communities Embracing Sustainability

August 20, 2024

From Australia to Peru, eco-villages offer sustainable living alternatives for people around the world.

6 of August's Hottest Music Festivals

July 23, 2024

From the U.S. to Hungary, music festivals have blossomed over recent decades and now attract millions of people from around the world every year.

Music festival performance. Veld Music Festival. CC BY-SA 2.0

Since the origins of music festivals sprung up in ancient Greece in 582 BC, these lively events have evolved from local music and sports competitions to globally renowned happenings. During August, many people flock to these festivals to experience remarkable performances accompanied by the summer weather.

Boomtown Festival, England

Performers at the 2006 Boomtown Festival, UK. Dimi15. CC BY-NC-SA 2.0

With over 50 venues, a dozen main stages and thousands of performers, the Boomtown Festival located near Winchester in the United Kingdom brings eight city districts to life from August 7 to 11, 2024. The lineup is often kept a mystery until right before the festival, but the Boomtown Festival generally incorporates all kinds of genres into the lineup, from folk music to EDM.

Festival-goers are encouraged to camp overnight. Every ticket provides access to the Campsite Villages located throughout the festival. For eco-conscious attendees, the Boomtown Festival offers upgraded Green Transport Citizen Entry Tickets at a discounted rate for those who arrive via public transport.

Burning Man, U.S.

Burning Man, 2013. Chayna Girling. CC BY-NC-ND 2.0

From August 25 to September 2, 2024, tens of thousands of people will come together in Nevada’s Black Rock Desert for the notorious Burning Man music festival. The theme for Burning Man 2024 is "Curiouser & Curiouser," inviting participants to explore their curiosities and wonders. The lineup has not yet been released, but Burning Man is known to host artists from many different genres.

Burning Man evolved from a spontaneous event on a San Francisco beach in 1986, when Larry Harvey and Jerry James drew a crowd to burn a wooden man in celebration of the Summer Solstice. Since then, Burning Man has become an official event that has attracted as many as 75,000 people. Ticket prices range greatly, from $225 tickets for low-income participants who qualify for the Ticket Aid Program, to $2,500 for early-bird FOMO Tickets. The Main Sale tickets cost $575 in addition to a $150 vehicle pass.

Creamfields, England

2005 Creamfields music festival, UK. Edith Adasme. CC BY-NC-SA 2.0

From August 22 to 25, 2024, Creamfields will return to Daresbury, UK, for another electrifying multi-day music festival. Since its origins as a weekly house music night called Cream, the event has transformed from a cozy club night into an iconic music festival that attracts thousands of attendees each day.

With each stage dedicated to a different genre, Creamfields attracts lovers of all kinds of music. Dozens of artists will perform throughout the festival, from blk. to Calvin Harris. For an elevated festival experience, Creamfields offers a range of ticket options to suit different preferences and budgets. The ticket costs range from Standard Day Tickets, which cost about $100, to four-day Gold Tickets that cost about $550.

Edinburgh Fringe Festival, Scotland

Edinburgh Fringe 2011, Scotland. Anriro96. CC BY-NC 2.0

The 2024 Edinburgh Fringe Festival will bring 14 venues to life throughout Edinburgh from August 2 to 26. The origins of the Edinburgh Fringe Festival date back to 1947, when eight theater groups performed on the fringes of the Edinburgh International Festival. Since then, the Edinburgh Fringe has drawn millions of people.

Edinburgh Fringe features thousands of shows, from comedy to music. With many free shows, festival-goers can attend the Edinburgh Fringe Festival regardless of financial status. For those on a budget or with limited travel ability, there are some virtual events that festival-goers can attend as well.

Lollapalooza, U.S.

Cage the Elephant crowdsurfing at Lollapalooza. Henrique Oli. Wikimedia. CC 3.0

Lollapalooza returns to Chicago’s Grant Park from August 1 to 4, 2024, featuring a star-studded lineup with headliners like SZA, Megan Thee Stallion, The Killers, Blink-182 and Skrillex. Lollapalooza began as a traveling festival in 1991 when founder Perry Farrell envisioned it as a grand farewell for Jane’s Addiction.

Since then, the festival has found its home in Chicago’s Grant Park, growing from a two-day event into a four-day extravaganza that attracts 100,000 attendees daily. With international outposts in cities like Santiago, São Paulo, Berlin and Mumbai, Lollapalooza’s impact has transcended borders. Ticket prices range from $155 for general admission to $4,500 for platinum two-day tickets.

Sziget Festival, Hungary

A performance at the Sziget Festival, Hungary. Opethpainter. CC BY 2.0

From August 7 to 12, 2024, the Sziget Festival will transform Budapest into a musical paradise. At the Sziget Festival, festival-goers can witness world-renowned performances by artists like Halsey, Janelle Monáe, Sam Smith, Fred Again, Liam Gallagher, Martin Garrix, Skrillex, Stormzy, Louis Tomlinson and RAYE.

Tickets are available for purchase directly from the website. The ticket prices range from less than a dollar to about $2.50. Families are welcome, and children under 11 can enter free with a child wristband. Basic camping is included with the tickets, allowing festival-goers to set up a tent in any free camping area.

Madison Paulus

Madison is a student at George Washington University studying international affairs, journalism, mass communication, and Arabic. Born and raised in Seattle, Washington, Madison grew up in a creative, open-minded environment. With passions for human rights and social justice, Madison uses her writing skills to educate and advocate. In the future, Madison hopes to pursue a career in science communication or travel journalism.

Festival de Tango: The Heartbeat of Buenos Aires

July 9, 2024

Every August, the annual Festival de Tango engulfs the streets of Argentina’s vibrant capital in mesmerizing tango dance, soulful music and rich Argentinian culture.

Performers at Festival de Tango in Buenos Aires, Argentina. Gobierno de la Ciudad de Buenos Aires. CC BY 2.0

From August 21 to September 1, 2024, the best tango dancers in the world are drawn to the Festival de Tango and the Tango World Cup in Buenos Aires, Argentina. Events during this time of tango span the entire city, offering easy access to travelers regardless of location. Festival-goers have many exciting activities at their fingertips. Beyond viewing the tango competition which features hundreds of world-renowned dancers, visitors can attend film screenings, theater, book readings, tours and more.

As the birthplace of tango, Argentina is the best place to celebrate. Tango first appeared in bars and dance halls during the 19th century in immigrant communities throughout the Rio de la Plata region that stretches between Uruguay and Argentina. Tango began to globalize during the 1930s and has since become a worldwide phenomenon, with the United Nations recognizing the tango dance as intangible cultural heritage in 2009.

Tango is a big part of Buenos Aires’ identity. The Festival de Tango began in 2003 as an initiative to increase tourism and cultural appreciation. Throughout the city, there are dozens of dance productions and live music performances. Participants can take it to the next level by becoming Tango dancers themselves at one of the many local Tango classes. Other staple events in Buenos Aires are Tango dance parties called milongas. Classes are often offered before milongas and can also be found at the many world-famous tango schools throughout Buenos Aires.

For those who prefer listening over dancing, venues such as the Usina de Arte and CCK often host free concerts. To delve even further into tango history and culture, visitors can take a trip to the tango neighborhood called Boedo, which was immortalized in the tango song Sur by Homero Manzi. Many of the Festival de Tango events are free. However, because hundreds of thousands of people often attend Festival de Tango events, it is recommended to reserve space ahead of time or arrive early before activities hit capacity.

Here are a few Festival de Tango activities to check out:

Participate in immersive tango packages offered by Argentina Tango: $1,659 to $7,245

Attend the Tango World Cup at the Usina del Arte: FREE

Watch tango performances over dinner at the Galeria Guemes Theater: $80

Go out for a tango night with locals with Immersion Tours: $65

Attend private dance classes at several locations throughout Buenos Aires: $35

July 2024's Top European Music Festivals

June 25, 2024

Here's a compilation of music festivals to rock your summer.

Live outdoor concert. Ultrafan123, CC BY-SA 4.0

Exploring Europe offers a rich tapestry of experiences, from museums and historic cathedrals to renowned cuisines and coastlines. In between the typical, however, consider enlivening your trip with a summer music festival.

Rock Werchter (Werchter, Belgium)

July 4-7, 2024

The Black Keys at Rock Werchter 2023. Haggis MacHaggis, CC BY-SA 4.0

Head over to the tiny town of Werchter, Belgium, which has hosted the multi-award-winning Rock Werchter festival for over 40 years. It is one of the largest and most renowned festivals in Europe, with this year’s event boasting a strong 4-day lineup with headliners including Lenny Kravitz, Måneskin, Dua Lipa, and the Foo Fighters. According to their website, the carefully curated lineup “spans across all genres, making it a truly unique experience.” The curators also make it a point to showcase established artists alongside new talents. Rock Werchter is known for its Belgian beer, waffles, campgrounds, and multiple stages.

EXIT Festival (Novi Sad, Serbia)

July 10-14, 2024

Drone shot of Exit Festival 2021. Exitfest, CC BY 3.0

The EXIT Festival of Serbia is known for its astounding location: the Petrovaradin Fortress, a historic fortress located on the banks of the Danube River, has unique acoustics and acts as a picturesque backdrop for the festival’s performances. This festival was first held in 2000 as part of a student movement fighting for democracy and freedom in Serbia. Since then, it has grown into one of the largest festivals in Southeast Europe, attracting tens of thousands of attendees each year. Today the festival continues to emphasize social activism and positive change through its various social responsibility projects. This year’s four-day lineup includes Gucci Mane, the Black Eyed Peas, John Newman, and Tom Morello.

NOS Alive Lisbon (Lisbon, Portugal)

July 11-13, 2024

The view of the mainstage from the crowd at NOS Alive. Chris, CC BY-SA 2.0.

NOS Alive Lisbon takes place at the waterfront Passeio Marítimo de Alges. Formerly known as Optimus Alive, this festival is known for local and international attendees attracted by its diverse lineup, including rock, indie, pop, electronic, and more. It typically showcases a mix of established artists and emerging talents across multiple stages. Festival goers can either camp on the grounds or stay in nearby hotels as the location is just eight minutes from downtown Lisbon. The three-day lineup this year includes artists like Arcade Fire, The Smashing Pumpkins, Dua Lipa, Tyla, Aurora, Pearl Jam, and Sum 41. Its reputation for hosting top-notch artists and vibrant festival atmosphere has contributed to its global appeal.

Parookaville (Weeze, Germany)

July 19-21, 2024

The concert at the mainstage at Parookaville. Ss279, CC BY-SA 4.0

This German festival is truly unique as the event takes place in a faux city, known as Parookaville. Since 2015, the urban creation has come to life once a year in remembrance of the fictional founding father and mayor, Bill Parooka, whose goal was to make people remember to celebrate the joy of life. According to the festival’s website, Parooka is allegedly responsible for instituting the “Madness, Love and Pure Happiness” laws. Festival fans are invited to experience a “mad” musical place where they can connect with their purest selves, experience true connections, and feel sensations of bliss and love. This lineup for this year’s eccentric festival includes headliners such as Don Diablo, Steve Aoki, KSHMR, Oliver Heldens, and Timmy Trumpet. Parookaville is ideal for those open to new experiences and electronic dance.

Hill Vibes Reggae Festival (Telfs, Austria)

July 24-27, 2024

Concert, Crowd, Silhouette image. Mike Wall, CC0.

For the more relaxed and tranquil festival-goer, consider the Hill Vibes Reggae Festival in the mountains of Telfs, Austria. Hill Vibes celebrates reggae music and its various sub-genres. Attendees can expect performances from both local and international reggae artists. The festival boasts a lineup of talented musicians, featuring Gentleman, Alborosie, Romain Virgo, Mellow Mood, Teacha Dee, Samora, and Treesha. From roots reggae to dancehall and dub, the lineup offers something for every reggae enthusiast.

Monegros Desert Festival 2024 (Fraga, Spain)

July 27, 2024

Monegros Desert Festival attendees at night. Gaudencio Garcinuño, CC BY-SA 2.0

The festival takes place in the Monegros Desert, located near Fraga in the province of Huesca, Aragon, Spain. Monegros Desert Festival is renowned for its lineup of electronic music artists, spanning various sub-genres such as techno, house, trance, drum, bass, and more. The festival has a rich history, from its inception in 1994 growing in popularity and stature to become one of the most anticipated electronic music events in Spain and beyond. In addition to the music, the festival is known for its impressive visual displays, stage designs, and production value. Immersive lighting, pyrotechnics, and other visual effects enhance the overall experience for festival-goers. This year’s one-day lineup includes Chase and Status, Vitalic, Sophia Gabanna, Culture Shock, and ASTRIX. According to Music Festival Wizard, Monegros is the biggest electronic music festival in Spain, and although many attempt to describe the festival, “It is literally impossible to put in plain words if you have not had the chance to attend it.”

Julz Vargas

Julz is a student at Wellesley College studying Anthropology and Spanish. She grew up in Los Angeles, CA, and has studied all around the world in places such as Costa Rica, Greece, Iceland, and Spain. She is passionate about employing writing as a tool to explore human connection and diversity. Julz aspires to foster cross-cultural connections through community-based research, amplifying inclusive and diverse media about global cultures, foods, and people, to encourage individuals to engage more wholly with the world.

Mud Mania: Dive into South Korea’s Boryeong Mud Festival

June 25, 2024

During the Boryeong Mud Festival, one of South Korea’s most popular celebrations, adventurers can immerse themselves in mineral-rich mud and South Korean culture simultaneously.

In Mongolia, a Summer Festival for the Ages

June 18, 2024

For a few days in early July, the people of Mongolia eat, dance and play “the three games of men” during a storied festival called Naadam.

The 2012 Naadam opening ceremony in Ulaanbaatar. Carsten ten Brink. CC BY-NC-SA 2.0.

Mongolia is a country primarily known for its nomadic inhabitants and isolated location. Positioned between Russia and China, it is easily overlooked in the midst of these global giants. Its relative emptiness does not help matters; only 3.3 million people inhabit Mongolia’s 603,909 square miles , making it the least densely populated country in the world. But every summer, those 3.3 million come together in a celebration of sports, culture and Mongolia’s past. This celebration is called Naadam, and as far as festivals go, it is one of the last of its kind.

In ancient times, when Ghengis Khan and his horde of Mongols were inhabiting what would eventually become Mongolia, soldiers were selected for battle based on their skills in various sports. Wrestling, horse racing and archery in particular were activities that Khan believed a good soldier should, and would, excel at. Before and after battles, his battalions would organize and participate in sports competitions. These local competitions evolved into what Naadam is now.

As a consequence of the 1921 Mongolian People’s Revolution, which brought the nation independence from China, Naadam’s essence was altered. It was officially sanctioned as a national holiday, with a date set in the second week of July. Mongolia’s capital of Ulaanbaatar became the home of “National Naadam,” the biggest and most important celebration of the holiday. Most importantly, the festival became less of a violent competition and more of a national celebration; an emotional change which remains today.

Every celebration of Naadam features the three main sports of Mongolia; wrestling, horse racing and archery. All three sports have histories in Mongolia that are older than the country itself. For example: if a rock carving found in central Mongolia is anything to go by, wrestling competitions have been around in the county since the Bronze Age. Naadam features the grandest of all Mongolian wrestling competitions; up to a thousand or more take part in the Ulaanbaatar tournament. Before their matches, wrestlers often mimic local birds such as eagles, hawks and vultures. By doing well in the competition, wrestlers can receive titles based on these animals—“hawk of Ulaanbaatar,” for example, would be given to a wrestler who makes it to the final few rounds.

The final thing to note about Mongolian wrestling is the dress code, which is very particular. Wrestlers must don a four-sided hat, shorts, boots, and a shoulder vest that exposes the chest. The legend is that the open vest was put into practice after a woman snuck into the male-only wrestling competition in ancient times by pretending to be her father, and eventually won the competition. Such deceptions have been made impossible by exposing the chest of the wrestlers; to this day, Mongolian wrestling continues to be an exclusively male sport.

Naadam wrestling in the village of Tariat. Evgeni Zotov. CC BY-NC-ND 2.0

Horses are a large part of Mongolian life—nomadic tribes continue to depend exclusively on them for transportation. It follows that horse racing is extremely popular in the nation. According to Naadam’s official website, around 180,000 horses race during the holiday. All of Naadam’s races are very long in distance—at least in comparison to western competitions. The Kentucky Derby is about 1¼ miles long; a Naadam race can be up to ten times that.

Mongolian jockeys are incredibly wily and experienced; most Mongolians learn to ride a horse when they are just five years old. The jockeys treat their horses with incredible care. Before, after and even during the races, they are said to sing complimentary songs to their steeds.

The final sport of Naadam is archery, which is said to be even older than wrestling in Mongolia. Naadam’s official website hypothesizes that archery has been around in Mongolia since the Neolithic period, which ended in 4,500 BC. It was first used for hunting—later on, Ghengis Khan would employ it in his battles and sports competitions.

Male, female and child archers all compete at Naadam, wearing traditional costumes made of colorful cloth. There are three categories of the sport—Khalka, Buriat and Uriankhai—each of which come from different tribes and have different sets of rules. Only men are allowed to practice Uriankhai archery, for example.

While these three sports are the core of Naadam, the festival does not begin and end with them. There are smaller carnival games, singing and dancing. National cuisine is enjoyed; Khuushuur, a fried pancake with meat, is the most popular dish. Airag, a fermented, alcoholic drink made from horse milk, is also popular.

However, Naadam’s most important attribute is not the food, the history or the sports competitions. It is the fact that for a few summer days, the sparse vastness of Mongolia is filled. Whether in Ulaanbaatar or in a tiny village, Naadam brings Mongolians together to celebrate a culture that few in the world know anything about. This quiet happiness is the magic of Naadam; it is a magic that will continue long into the future.

Finn Hartnett

Finn grew up in New York City and is now a first-year at the University of Chicago. In addition to writing for Catalyst, he serves as a reporter for the Chicago Maroon. He spends his free time watching soccer and petting his cat

The Oldest Russian Theatre is in Latvia

June 4, 2024

The Mikhail Chekhov Riga Russian Theater in Riga, Latvia, faced political censorship under the Soviets but managed to keep its doors open.

Riga Russian Theater, 2018. Olaf Meister. CC BY-SA 4.0

Established in 1883, the Mikhail Chekhov Riga Russian Theater was the first of two kinds: the first professional theater in Latvia and the first Russian-language theater outside Russia. Before it was founded, there were no permanent Russian theaters in the capital city, only the occasional amateur performance, and it is thus deeply rooted in the history and development of professional theater in Latvia. Today the theater offers a mix of classical plays and modern, experimental works.

In 2006, the theater, known previously as the Riga Russian Drama Theater, was rechristened the Mikhail Chekhov Riga Russian Theater as a tribute to the actor, director and teacher, who spent two years working in Riga in the 1930s. A friend of Chekhov’s, Janis Karklinsh, quoted one of Chekhov's interviews with the Latvian press from this time: "Great nations crumble under the outcome of materialism and lust for power. The revival of art comes through the small nations.'' It was Chekhov’s opinion that the cultural context of Latvia in the early 1930s was the best ground for "real art.” Germany and France treated art as a "pretty cheap kind of entertainment.” “New art" could only be born in a developing country that was in the midst of cultural renewal. While in Riga, Chekhov directed and acted in five performances.

The theater continuously confronted the issue of a lack of funding. In the early 1900s, a committee known as the Society of the Guarantors of the Russian Theater in Riga was formed with the task of ensuring “the permanent existence of the Russian theater in Riga.” The First World War disrupted these efforts, and for a period of time between 1915 and 1921, the theater ceased operations. In 1921, the Latvian government made the decision to allocate close to $1,700 a year in order to “support the theaters of national minorities—German, Jewish, Russian” and the theater was able to resume its activities.

On August 5th, 1940, Latvia was occupied by the Soviet Union. Around 35,000 Latvians were killed or deported during the occupation between 1940 and 1941. As a result, the Riga Theater became a public theater and was cut off from its financial support from private entities, facing the political censorship that was common under Soviet occupation. It was not until 1998, less than a decade after Latvia had regained its independence from the USSR, that the Society of Guarantors was revived and the theater could once again receive financial donations.

The theater employs directors and designers from all parts of Europe, including Belarus, Estonia, Lithuania, Germany, Sweden, Italy, and more. Following the tradition of Russian theater, the company often performs pieces that include music and dance, though its repertoire is by no means limited to musicals. Directors employed by the theater strive to choose works that are profound and psychologically provocative in nature and push the boundaries of drama itself.

The theater retains a permanent troupe of actors as well as a repertoire of Russian, Latvian and international works, as well as works by young, emerging playwrights. In 2018, the theater inaugurated a studio for children and youth, ages seven to twelve, to train in the performing arts and develop skills in confidence and communication. Although the studio had to pause its workshops during COVID-19, as of 2024 they have resumed.

According to its website, the theater “harmoniously lives in the cross-cultural space, participates in the cultural dialogue—both nationally and internationally,” making it a significant cultural institution for Latvia.

Rebecca Pitcairn

Rebecca studies Italian Language and Literature, Classical Civilizations, and English Writing at the University of Pittsburgh. She hopes to one day attain a PhD in Classical Archeology. She is passionate about feminism and climate justice. She enjoys reading, playing the lyre, and longboarding in her free time.

Celebrate Pride at Oaxaca’s Annual Parade this June

June 4, 2024

Color and culture unite in the streets of Mexico’s Oaxaca.

People dancing during parade. Imogen Volland.

It was an overcast day late June, but downtown Oaxaca was anything but dreary. The cobblestone streets were an explosion of laughter and music, the adobe buildings adorned with flags and banners. The parade was a party and everyone was invited. We weaved our way through the bustling streets, singing along to the Selena song blasting from a nearby speaker, passing by bakeries, bars, markets and boutiques.

Last year, I had the privilege of attending Oaxaca’s annual pride parade, which attracts hundreds of locals and tourists alike. Located in southwestern Mexico, Oaxaca is nestled in the Sierra Madre mountain range. The region is renowned for its mouthwatering cuisine, including mole, tlayuda, enfrijoladas and chocolate. It also boasts a vibrant arts scene. The winding streets are adorned with murals, and the region is famous for its handicrafts including candle making, pottery and embroidery. Even with a population of over 300,000, Oaxaca feels like a small town. With pride month expanding worldwide, corporations are finding new ways to capitalize off of the movement, however, the pride parade in Oaxaca is not commercially sponsored. It’s a community effort, celebrating inclusivity, unity and belonging in a historically Catholic country.

People carrying flags during parade. Imogen Volland.

Historically occupied by the Zapotec and Mixtec tribes, Oaxaca has a rich culture steeped in indigenous heritage, celebrated during the Guelaguetza festival in July. The Zapotecs occupied Oaxaca from 500 BCE to 900 CE and were followed by the Mixtecs around 1350 CE. Zapotec culture is unique in that it wasn’t rooted in conquest, and masculinity was associated with more “feminine” hobbies like art, craftsmanship and dance. A third gender is recognized in Zapotec culture, the muxe (also spelled muxhe), people who were assigned male at birth who dress or behave more “feminine.” Gender non-conformity in non-Western cultures dates back centuries. The two-gender binary system prevalent in Western cultures was a product of colonization and imperialism, in which Indigenous tribes were forced to surrender their cultural traditions, including the acknowledgement of a third gender. The Muxe still occupy Oaxaca today, defying heteronormative standards and carrying on the Zapotec tradition.

In 2012, the Supreme Court overturned a law preventing same-sex marriages in Oaxaca. Since the legalization of same-sex marriage across all of Mexico in 2022, Oaxaca has rapidly become one of the country’s most gay-friendly hotspots, featuring a variety of gay-owned and gay-friendly shops, restaurants and bars. Cuizzita Cafe is a queer-owned, community-oriented coffee shop with a casual, comfortable atmosphere, offering board games, puzzles and books for customers to use. Club 502 is Oaxaca’s first gay club with mixed drinks, dancing, karaoke and drag shows. Confetti Pool Club is a queer-owned hostel with a pool, swim-up bar, rooftop seating and live music. The hostel is a six-minute walk from the Mitla archeological site.

People carrying posters on platform. Imogen Volland.

This year, Oaxaca’s annual pride parade will be held on Saturday, June 22 at 3 p.m. from the Fuente de las Ocho Regiones. For more information about the parade, as well as other upcoming pride events in Mexico, follow the link here. For a celebration of life, and of love, I highly recommend visiting Oaxaca this June. Happy Pride Month!

Agnes Volland

Agnes is a student at UC Berkeley majoring in Interdisciplinary Studies and minoring in Creative Writing, with a research focus on road trip culture in America. She currently writes for BARE Magazine and Caravan Travel & Style Magazine. She is working on a novel that follows two sisters as they road trip down Highway 40, from California to Oklahoma. In the future, she hopes to pursue a career in journalism, publishing, or research.

Italian Night Life Thrives in Abandoned Buildings

May 28, 2024

Thanks to self-managed social centers, Italians have found a space to enjoy concerts, dinners, movie nights and more

Concert at XM24. Zeroincondotta. CC BY-NC-SA 2.0

Since the 1970s, self-managed social centers have offered a place for Italians to gather as a community. Usually located on the outskirts of cities, these centers are established and operated entirely by locals. They are often formed as a direct response to social issues such as lack of affordable housing, drug addiction and marginalization. Members of the community occupy buildings that have fallen into disuse, such as schools, apartment complexes, forts and even farms.

The legal status of these centers varies, and some face eviction by authorities despite their value to the community. Many of the centers take a strong political stance, defining themselves as anti-fascist, anti-sexist, anti-racist and anti-capitalist. These spaces serve as important refuges for members of the community and a place for diverse groups of people to meet and collaborate.

One of the most famous of these self-managed social centers was XM24, or ExMarket, of Bologna. It emerged during a period of repression as the mayor of the city engaged in a campaign against social housing and squatter movements. The center established itself in several abandoned spaces, including a former fruit and vegetable market from which it took its name. It offered a number of services to the community, including a cafe, a bike shop, a vegetable garden, live concerts, a gym, and a dormitory for migrants, refugees and the houseless. It was run by a general assembly of local volunteers.

XM24 Graffiti, *Against those who close our spaces, let’s ignite our rage*. Zeroincondotta. CC BY-NC-SA 2.0

In 2013, XM24 was able to reach an agreement with the local government, allowing the center to operate independently and utilize the abandoned spaces. However, the agreement expired in 2017. Members of the community attempted to protest the eviction in a struggle with the city that lasted two years, but in 2019 the space was evicted and bulldozers arrived to clear it out. As of 2024, the center no longer exists.

Leoncavallo Spazio Pubblico Autogestito. Robertino Radovix. CC BY-NC-SA 2.0

XM24 was not the only self-managed center to be evicted by the government, but many centers have still found a way to thrive. The Leoncavallo Spazio Pubblico Autogestito of Milan still offers jazz concerts, stand-up comedy, dinners, English lessons and more to locals. It is currently open Thursdays through Sundays in the afternoon and evening, although they face eviction on June 18th, 2024 by the bailiff and the property’s lawyers.

Daniele Sepe & Aldolà Chivalà. L’Asilo. CC BY-NC-SA 2.0

Je So’ Pazzo is a self-managed center in the Marterdei district on the outskirts of the city of Naples in a former asylum for the criminally insane. When it was occupied in 2015, it was managed by the Penitentiary Police. Volunteers collaborate with local associations to house, collect clothing for and distribute meals to the houseless. Their services include medical clinics, psychiatric support and migrant aid. They also offer a number of recreational activities, such as Naples’ only indoor rock climbing wall, a football pitch, a gym, a theater, a bar, social dinners, concerts, and so much more. It is still active and open 24 hours a day, six days a week. Like most places in Italy, it is closed on Sundays.

Concert at CPA, Firenze. GothEric. CC BY-SA 2.0

The Centro Popolare Autogestito Firenze Sud and LaPolveriera SpazioComune are both self-managed centers located in Florence. Like other social centers, they offer a variety of recreational activities during the days and the evenings, such as ceramics classes and concerts, as well as important social services for the community,

Whether you are looking to participate in a ukulele workshop, enjoy a dinner and movie, discuss politics with local Italians, or let loose at a heavy metal concert, self-managed social centers are the perfect place.

Journey to Malaysia: The Gawai Dayak Festival

May 28, 2024

On June 1st travelers can relish in Sarawakian culture at the colorful Gawai Dayak Festival.

A Gawai Dayak float. Baka_neko_baka. CC BY 2.0

In the Iban language, Gawai Dayak means something like "Festival of the Native Ethnic Groups of Sarawak," a state in Malaysia. This festival brings communities together to celebrate the end of the rice harvesting season. Gawai Dayak is a time of gratitude and companionship where people give thanks for that year's harvests and pray for a fortunate future.

Rice agriculture is integral for many Sarawakians. By June the majority of the hard work in the rice fields is done, and Sarawakians have a period of celebration and rest until the next planting season begins in September.

Gawai Dayak festivities begin during Gawai Eve on May 31st. On Gawai Eve, locals conduct a ceremony called Muai Antu Rua to cast away negative spirits and roast rice over bamboo. During the Muai Antu Rua ceremony, unwanted items are collected from Iban longhouses and used in a miring, or offering ceremony, filled with music.

After the Muai Antu Rua ceremony, attendees await midnight when the sound of a gong kicks off Gawai Dayak. Many activities and traditions are open to locals and visitors during Gawai Dayak. During the celebrations, participants can engage in traditional dances, dance competitions, and enjoy Sarawakian delicacies such as a rice wine called Tuak, which is thought to bring long life, and rice cakes called Penganan.

Gawai Dayak is a time filled with events and activities. A popular Gawai Dayak tradition is the Kumang and Keling Gawai contests where celebrants elect the festival’s queen and king. Other common Gawai Dayak traditions include blow-pipe demonstrations and rooster fighting.

Gawai Dayak celebrations can continue for several days. During the festivities, travelers have the unique opportunity to visit the Dayak homes, which are often open to visitors during Gawai Dayak.

Many visit the Sarawakian capital Kuching to celebrate Gawai Dayak. While the official date for Gawai Dayak is June 1st, in Kuching Gawai Dayak is celebrated the week before the World Harvest Festival. These dates vary every year, but the celebration usually falls at the end of May or the beginning of June.

During the Gawai Dayak in Kuching, there is an array of theatrical and musical performances from both local and international troupes. Explorers can also discover traditional cuisine in local longhouses and experience appetizing aromas, engaging workshops and upbeat music at the Food & Craft Fiesta.

Rainbow Destinations: 8 Cities That Shine During Pride

May 23, 2024

With an estimated one in 10 people around the world identifying as LGBTQIA+, there are many destinations for LGBTQIA+ community members and allies to celebrate Pride, from New York to Taipei.

Pride flag at Pride Parade. William Murphy. CC BY-SA 2.0

The first official Pride parades in 1970 commemorated the first anniversary of the Stonewall Riots. On June 28, 1969, the New York City police raided an LGBTQIA+ safe space called the Stonewall Inn. Six days of protests, where thousands denounced the treatment of the LGBTQIA+ community, followed the raid. Since the first series of Pride parades sprung up across the United States in the 1970s, Pride celebrations have spread to every continent, including Antarctica.

1. Berlin, Germany

Partygoers at a Pride Parade in Berlin, Germany. David J. CC BY 2.0

Sometimes referred to as ‘the capital of the rainbow’, Berlin is among the most popular LGBTQIA+ travel destinations and boasts many Pride events. During the Pride Weeks between June 28th and July 27th, 2024, Berlin will celebrate LGBTQIA+ Pride with Christopher Street Day and the Lesbian and Gay Street Festival, the largest LGBTQIA+ street festival in Europe. Drawing hundreds of thousands of people, Berlin’s Pride events are vibrant and full of music and performances.

The epicenter of Berlin’s Pride celebrations can be found around Nollendorfplatz Street in Schoneberg. Filled with memorials of LGBTQIA+ martyrs and icons, travelers can immerse in German LGBTQIA+ history. Beyond the Pride festivities, visitors can enjoy events and workshops at the Gay Museum, or explore nightlife in Berlin’s array of clubs and bars.

2. Cape Town, South Africa

Pride Parade float in Cape Town, South Africa. richie rocket. CC BY-NC-ND 2.0

As one of the most welcoming countries for LGBTQIA+ travelers in Africa, South Africa is home to a variety of Pride parades and events. At the end of South Africa’s summer, between February 27th and May 2nd, 2024, Cape Town’s Pride events offer travelers the opportunity to celebrate pride with many unique activities.

From drag brunches to the Pets for Pride Promenade Walk, travelers have many events to choose from beyond the parade itself. Following the Pride Parade on February 27th, 2024, the celebration continues with the Pride Mardi Gras, featuring performances from drag performers, musicians and DJs.

3. London, UK

A participant in the London Pride Parade. Adrian Snood. CC BY-NC 2.0

Travelers can experience the UK’s biggest and most diverse Pride celebration in London. Since the first Pride Parade in London in 1972, London’s Pride has grown to be one of the largest Pride events in the world. London’s Pride features the Pride Festival along with the Pride in London Parade.

Throughout June, explorers can experience everything from exhibitions to cabaret shows at the Pride Festival. On June 29th, 2024 at the Pride Parade, attendees can cheer for hundreds of LGBTQIA+ community groups, non-profits, and businesses as they make their way through the streets.

4. Montevideo, Uruguay

Pride festivities in Montevideo, Uruguay. Montecruz Foto. CC BY-SA 2.0

Often rated as one of the most ‘gay-friendly’ cities in the world, the largest LGBTQIA+ Pride celebrations can be found in Montevideo, where tens of thousands flock to the annual events. Montevideo Pride began in the 1990s and will be celebrated on September 27th 2024.

LGBTQIA+-friendly activities in Montevideo span well beyond official Pride events. In Montevideo, travelers have many LGBTQIA+ destinations at their fingertips, including LGBTQIA+ bars and clubs like the Chains Pub and the Cain Dance Club. Curious explorers also have access to over 40 exhibitions and museums where they can delve further into the city's history and culture.

5. New York, U.S.A

Pride Parade in New York City. DVSROSS. CC BY 2.0

As the birthplace of Pride, New York City is an iconic destination to enjoy Pride festivities on June 30th, 2024. On this day, the streets are filled with rainbows as the Pride March and other Pride celebrations commence.

The Pride March is accompanied by PrideFest, a street fair where attendees can engage in games and other activities while supporting local business owners. At specialized events such as Bliss Days, which celebrates LGBTQIA+ women, participants can enjoy live music from DJs and dance performances.

6. San Francisco, U.S.A

Decorations for Pride, San Francisco. Lindsey Rodgers. CC BY-NC-ND 2.0

Pride has been celebrated in San Francisco for 54 years. Since then, the entire month of June has become full of Pride celebrations and events. On June 1st, 2024, there will be the first Block Party during San Francisco Pride. During the Block Party, celebrants can enjoy meals from BIPOC-owned food trucks accompanied by local LGBTQIA+ entertainment and connect with local vendors and businesses.

On June 7th, 2024 at the Pride Kickoff Party travelers can dive into Pride celebrations alongside live shows from drag to film. Those interested in human rights and international politics can learn from experts at the San Francisco Pride’s Human Rights Summit on June 27th, 2024. San Francisco's Pride month then comes to a close on June 30th with the Pride Parade.

7. Taipei, Taiwan

Pride Parade in Taipei, Taiwan. Ironypoisoning. CC BY-SA 2.0

Every year, between the 27th and the 29th of October, the Taiwan Rainbow Civil Action Organization organizes the largest LGBTQIA+ Pride in East Asia. Taipei is an ideal destination to embrace Pride in Taiwan, with nearly 200,000 people partaking in Taipei’s Pride in 2023.

A part of the Pride festivities is the Taipei Rainbow Festival, where people can support LGBTQIA+-friendly artists and local brands. Accompanying the booths, visitors can enjoy live musical performances by LGBTQIA+ performers and DJs. Besides the lively Pride celebrations, Taipei boasts natural and architectural wonders, from the Yangmingshan National Park to the Longshan Temple.

8. Sao Paulo, Brazil

A banner in the Sao Paulo, Brazil Pride Parade. Mídia NINJA. CC BY-NC 2.0

Between May 30th and June 2nd, Sao Paulo comes to life with Pride celebrations. Beginning with the metropolis's Diversity Cultural Fair and ending with its Pride Parade, the Pride weekend is full of alluring activities for travelers and locals alike.

With nearly 20 floats carrying dozens of performing artists and electronic music filling Paulista Avenue, Sao Paulo’s Pride Parade draws visitors from around the world. During the city's 27th Pride celebration in 2023, over three million people took to the streets for its Pride Parade.

May Day Magic: How Different Countries Celebrate

April 29, 2024

Sixty-six countries around the world recognize May Day, and a variety of different celebrations and traditions can be found throughout Europe.

May Day bouquets. Alyss. CC BY-NC-SA 2.0

The roots of May Day are in the Gaelic Beltane Festival and Roman Floralia. In 1891, the first of May also became recognized as International Workers Day. Over the years, May Day festivities have maintained ancient traditions while evolving to include modern activities from picnics to music festivals.

England

Children performing the Maypole Dance. Pete Ashton. CC BY-NC 2.0

England boasts a long history of May Day celebrations. Traditional Maypole dances can still be seen throughout the country. These dances are often performed by children adorned with flowers who hold ribbons connected to the Maypole.

The ribbons create a colorful design as the children dance around the maypole. Said to represent the increase of daylight between the winter and summer months, this tradition is around 600 years old.

Beyond witnessing this traditional dance, history enthusiasts can witness re-enactments of conflict between the Vikings and Saxons at Corfe Castle in Dorset.

Finland

Finnish May Day celebrations are called Vappu, and are celebrated on April 30th and May 1st. During the festivities, travelers can see streets and parks dotted with white hats; these hats are secondary-school graduation caps, which have become a staple of the Vappu celebration.

During Vappu, Finland is incredibly lively, full of parties, picnics, parades and political speeches. These events are accompanied by several traditional delicacies, including Finnish May Day funnel cakes called Tippaleipa, Finnish donuts called Munkki, and a unique kind of mead called Sima.

France

In France, May Day is known to be a day of rest when nearly every business is closed in honor of Labour Day, although flower shops and stands are allowed an exception. This is because Lily of the Valley flowers, called Muguet in French, are a staple May Day tradition.

During the holidays, Lilies of the Valley are exchanged between family and friends as a symbol of good luck. During May Day, French streets are strewn with these flowers as this day marks the only time of the year when people are allowed to sell these flowers on the street without requiring a license or taxation.

Germany

On the eve of May Day, Germans celebrate Walpurgisnacht, a spring festival with a history rooted in witchcraft. This tradition has its origin in the belief that witches celebrate the coming of spring on the summit of Blocksberg Mountain. During Walpurgisnacht, festivalgoers can dance around bonfires and indulge in Maibowle, a punch made up of white and sparkling wines and wild woodruff.

On May Day, parades featuring brass bands make their way through the streets, followed by maypole dances and public gatherings filled with bratwursts and beer. A festival for dark rock and arts has also been celebrated in Leipzig since 1992, drawing goths from around the world.

Greece

May Day has been celebrated in Greece long before its association with Labour Day. Protomagia, the traditional Greek May Day celebration, has been a time for Greeks to celebrate rebirth and honor the dead for centuries.

While traditions vary across regions, many feature lively singing, dancing and rituals. A few of these customs include women singing traditional May Day songs while dancing around bonfires. Children also leap over the bonfires to symbolize the end of winter and banish disease.

Greenery and flowers have long symbolized vivacity and fertility. In preparation, people collect wildflowers from the countryside and create wreaths. These wreaths can be found on balconies and doors across the country, intended to ward off evil. These wreaths are then preserved and tossed into bonfires during the Feast Day of Aghios Ioannis Klidonas on June 24th.

Ireland

Traditionally, Ireland celebrated the Beltane Festival, including Maypoles and May Bushes, which were usually Hawthorn bushes decorated with ribbons and occasionally colored eggshells left over from Easter.

Children in Dublin would wander the streets in search of money, candles or sweets by approaching people and saying “Long Life, a pretty wife, and a candle for the May Bush”.

While these traditions have largely died out, travelers can still find bonfires in counties like Clare and Limerick. Partygoers celebrate throughout the country, enjoying the holiday with family and friends.

Italy

May Day Concert, 2008. Gniliep. CC BY 2.0

For May Day, Italy hosts the largest free music event in Europe. The May Day Concert in Rome's Piazza San Giovanni in Laterano began in 1990 and has drawn thousands of people every year since. At this event, travelers can experience live music and street events.

Beyond the May Day Concert, Italians and visitors alike use the holiday as an opportunity to soak up the sun and indulge in Italy’s rich culture. Italy has many beaches, such as Salento, where people can celebrate the coming of spring along the water. People also flock to San Gimignano, home to incredible wine, architecture, and a UNESCO World Heritage Site at the city center.

Scotland

Performers at the Beltane Fire Festival, 2009. Martin Robertson. CC BY-NC-ND 2.0

Scotland is another destination where the Beltane Festival is celebrated. Since the 1980s, traditional Beltane celebrations have been revived with modern additions.

One of the most prominent celebrations occurs on April 30th in Edinburgh. Every year, around 10,000 people from around the world are drawn to the Beltane Fire Festival. During the festival, a procession filled with drums travels through the streets, led by traditional May Day characters like the Green Man and the May Queen.

Following the procession, there is a three-hour stage performance which is concluded by the lighting of a bonfire. At the festival, visitors have the opportunity to immerse themselves in the traditional performances and support local businesses

A Festival of Flight: Explore Japan’s Hamamatsu Kite Festival

April 9, 2024

Join more than 1.5 million people in May to celebrate the Hamamatsu Kite Festival.

Kites flying during the Hamamatsu Kite Festival. Shizuoka Prefectural Tourism Association. CC BY-SA 2.1 JP

The origins of the Hamamatsu Kite Festival date back more than 450 years. In Japan, kites have been used for both practical and celebratory purposes for over 1,000 years. During the Edo era, kites were flown to celebrate the birth of a first-born son. This tradition then developed into the Hamamatsu Kite Festival where all children are celebrated.

At the beginning of May during Golden Week, Hamamatsu’s skies are filled with over 100 vibrant, traditional kites. The designs of the kites in the Hamamatsu Kite Festival symbolize children and traditions from each town in the district of Hamamatsu. The kite fliers then partake in an aerial battle, attempting to sever each other's kite strings.

As dusk falls, the festivities move from the beach to the city center where the streets come alive with dance and musical performances featuring bells and drums. The traditional music follows nearly 100 artfully decorated floats as they travel through the streets of Hamamatsu. The floats carry children in customary clothing and are pulled by cheering adults with lanterns and flags in hand.

Some floats are over 100 years old, and travelers can learn about their history at the plaza between the JR-Hamamatsu and Shin-Hamamatsu train stations where a few floats are displayed throughout the day. There are three parade routes, so for those hoping to see all the floats it is recommended that they choose a different route each night.

The location of the kite battles on the Pacific coastline allows travelers easy access to other nearby marvels, such as one of three of Japan’s major sand dunes. The Nakatajima Dunes, known as a famous hatching ground for loggerhead sea turtles, can be found near the kite battles, and are surrounded by coastal forests.

Not only home to its eponymous Kite Festival, the city of Hamamatsu is a destination known for its diverse landscapes and impeccable craftsmanship. Along with the coastline, Hamamatsu boasts mountains, a river and Lake Hamana, the birthplace of Japan’s eel-farming industry. Energetic travelers can participate in many activities at Lake Hamana, including windsurfing, swimming and biking.

Nature lovers will feel right at home among thousands of plant species at the Hamamatsu Flower Park. History buffs can learn about the city’s musical history at the Hamamatsu Museum and explore Hamamatsu Castle.

Hamamatsu is easily accessible from Tokyo. Travelers can take a bullet train from Tokyo Station to Hamamatsu Station in as little as 100 minutes.

Buried Tragedy: The Slums Beneath the Streets of Edinburgh

April 9, 2024

A long-buried mini-city beneath the streets of Edinburgh sheds light on the lives of its 19th century poor

The city of Edinburgh is known for its gorgeous architecture, rich history and fascinating culture, and over many years has become a prime destination for tourists visiting Scotland. But beneath the Royal Mile lie hidden catacombs and an unsettling history of poverty and crime.

Despite being used as a prime spot for chintzy “ghost tours”, the underground city (referred to varyingly as the Edinburgh Vaults and South Bridge Vaults) has a rich and tragic history. It was constructed back in 1788 as part of the South Bridge Act, which was an attempt to make the rapidly-growing city more traversable. The bridge wasn’t only for travel, however; the arches under the bridge were home to tenement buildings designed to turn the area into a marketplace. The nearly 120 individual vaults became taverns, workshops and storage units for merchants.

Storage in the Edinburgh Vaults. Kjetil Bjornsrud, CC BY-SA 2.5

However, these vaults were not properly sealed against water and eventually started to flood, leading to most businesses completely abandoning them before the turn of the century. The rooms were left largely empty as the Industrial Revolution swept across Britain, and eventually became slum housing for the city’s poor. As jobs began to be automated, more and more citizens were without income and found themselves unable to pay for their homes, sending them out onto the streets and, eventually, down to the South Bridge Vaults.

Since the vaults were almost totally blocked off, many of them were without air circulation and sunlight. This, coupled with a lack of running water and sanitation, made living down in the vaults a waking nightmare. Over time, the vaults became more and more crowded, with many housing several families at once.

A recreation of living conditions in the Vaults. Shadowgate, CC BY 2.0

The vaults were also entirely avoided by the city police. As a result, they became a hotspot for all kinds of crime, from theft and prostitution to murder and body snatching. Rumors have circulated for years that a pair of notorious serial killers used the vaults to store corpses that they would later sell to medical schools for use in classes. While the killings did occur, there is no evidence that the criminals actually used the vaults to store their victims.

It is unknown exactly when the vaults were finally shut down. At some point, they were cleared out and sealed off with rubble to prevent new inhabitants. The vaults were left completely forgotten underneath the city until being discovered and excavated in the 1980s. In the years since, various clubs and venues have taken up residence in the vaults, but the vast majority are still used for ghost tours.

The history of these vaults is overshadowed by the pop-culture appeal of their supposed hauntings, but their very existence shines a light on the grim conditions faced by the poor in the 19th century. The appalling conditions in which these impoverished people lived is bad enough, but the indifference shown by the city’s government was far worse, letting criminals run rampant and leaving entire families essentially trapped in the sunless, disease-ridden catacombs. Today, the vaults serve as a reminder of the shortcomings of industrialism and the suffering endured by the poor around the world throughout history.

Though much of the vault network is still closed off to the public, there are many different tour companies in the city that guide visitors through the accessible rooms. Despite being billed most often as “ghost tours,” the guides are more than receptive to questions about the vaults’ history and tend to spend just as much time describing the vaults themselves as the ghosts that ostensibly still haunt them. Mercat Tours, a well-regarded historical tour company in Edinburgh, does adults-only evening tours regularly, with ticket prices around $28.

Graffiti Capitals: 9 of the World’s Best Cities for Street Art

March 12, 2024

From Argentina to Estonia, artists around the world commemorate and contribute to city culture through street art.

Street art by Cabaio Stencil in Bueno Aires, Argentina. Parisa. CC BY-NC-SA 2.0

1. Bogota, Colombia

Street art in Bogota, Columbia. McKay Savage. CC BY 2.0

Lying in the east Andes mountains, Colombia’s capital Bogota is home to blocks of mural-covered walls. While graffiti has been decriminalized since 2013, the road to get here was violent. In 2011, 16-year-old Diego Becerra was shot and killed by police for spray painting, causing an uproar among Bogota’s residents.

The following advocacy to decriminalize spray painting was successful. The government’s relationship with street art continued to evolve after Justin Bieber visited Bogota in 2013 and was allowed to spray paint with police protection. The hypocrisy of giving special license and support to the Canadian singer spurred further advocacy, and now Bogota’s government actively promotes spray painting and other forms of street art.

Today, travelers can revel in Bogota’s street art throughout the city, from the airport to downtown. Some must-see destinations include Distrito Graffiti, an industrial area where two whole blocks are decorated with vibrant paint, and La Candelaria, Bogota’s historical quarter featuring murals strewn throughout storefronts and parks.

2. Buenos Aires, Argentina

Street art in Buenos Aires, Argentina. Wally Gobetz. CC BY-NC-ND 2.0

Home of the record-breaking mural spanning over 20,000 square feet, Buenos Aires boasts a flourishing street art scene thanks to minimal restrictions and generally supportive attitudes.

Stimulating murals dot the Argentine capital from north to south. Here, artists use cityscapes as a canvas to pay homage to their history and culture through vibrant and satirical murals.

Travelers have access to a variety of ways to take in these works of art, from strolling about to partaking in self-guided or private tours. For those with tight budgets yearning to experience some of these masterpieces, there are several online exhibits only a click away.

3. Cape Town, South Africa

Street art in Cape Town, South Africa. Tsn92. CC BY 2.0

Situated among mountains on the Atlantic Ocean, Cape Town has a history drenched in creativity in spite of longstanding adversity. Areas like District Six maintained vibrant cultural and artistic diversity throughout Apartheid, while some areas such as Woodstock have had a post-Apartheid revival.

During the 1980s, Cape Town's graffiti culture materialized as a tool to resist apartheid, with artists like Falko One using their street art to address injustice. Despite 30 years having passed since the collapse of the Apartheid regime, segregation and inequity persist alongside the street art calling attention to them.

In February 2024, the eighth International Public Arts Festival took place in Cape Town. Each year, the festival offers locals and explorers alike an opportunity to immerse themselves in Cape Town’s street art culture.

4. Lisbon, Portugal

Street art in Lisbon, Portugal. Pedro Ribeiro Simões. CC BY 2.0 DEED

The evolution of Lisbon’s street art is exceptional, transforming a city with predominantly white buildings into one renowned for its color-filled streets over the past three centuries.

Color began to be incorporated into building designs during the 1750s, and street art as we know it today didn’t appear until the democratic revolution in 1974. Meanwhile, an even deeper past lies underneath the streets in the 2,000-year-old Roman Galleries, where visitors can find ancient inscriptions on the tunnel walls.

Now, buildings across the city serve as canvases for artists, with many spanning several stories. Lisbon street artists don’t limit themselves to spray paint. Artists such as Vhils and Bordalo II get creative with their methods, incorporating chiseling techniques and found objects into their work.

5. Lodz, Poland

Street art in Lodz, Poland. Aira. CC BY-NC-SA 2.0

Often referred to as the capital of Polish street art, Lodz is a city with a rich history in the arts, gaining recognition over the years for its audiovisual arts scene ranging from fashion to film.

Many organizations have taken initiatives to support and expand street art in Lodz. Since 2009 the Urban Forms Foundation has been at the forefront of Lodz's street art movement. This organization offers advice to urban artists while maintaining the Urban Forms Gallery, a collection of creatively coated walls intended to bring life and recognition to the community.

Local street artists like M-City and the Etam Crew enhance the landscape with murals in styles ranging from futurism to realism. Lodz draws urban artists from around the world, with the Urban Forms Gallery project engaging artists from eight countries.

6. Penang, Malaysia

Street art in Penang, Malaysia. Mohd Fazlin Mohd Effendy Ooi. CC BY 2.0

Hundreds of murals drape the skyline of Penang, Malaysia. The street art movement began in 2012 when the Penang Tourist Board commissioned Ukrainian street artist Ernest Zacharevic.

Street art in Penang has since been a means of reflecting community culture and values. Zacharevic’s murals center on local communities and history, and can be seen throughout George Town. In the same city, travelers can also admire pieces like the 12-mural series of stray cats created by local organizations using street art to call attention to issues like animal welfare.

7. Stavanger, Norway

Street art in Stavanger, Norway. Sílvia Darnís. CC BY-NC-SA 2.0 DEED

In Stavanger, Norway, explorers can gaze upon the paradox of traditional architecture contrasted with progressive street art. Here, travelers can find a plethora of urban masterpieces created by world-famous street artists like Banksy and local talent like Algebra.

The dynamic street art scene today can be traced back to the Nuart Street Art Festival. Since 2001, the Nuart Festival has gathered teams of street artists from around the world to collaborate on projects throughout Stavanger. Beyond the creation of new street art, the Nuart Festival contributes to Stavanger’s urban art culture by hosting events, tours and workshops around the city.

For those looking to take a step further into the world of street art, some street artists in Stavanger offer classes.

8. Tallinn, Estonia

Street art in Tallinn, Estonia. Karen Bryan. CC BY-ND 2.0 DEED

Although the emergence of street art in Tallinn, Estonia, is fairly recent, this city has much to offer to travelers seeking masterful creations on city walls. In 2016, an official street art program began, initially centered around street dance, but some initial mural painting provided building blocks for a soon-to-be burgeoning street art movement.

The following year, the Mextonia Festival brought Estonian and international street art into the spotlight. This cross-cultural festival was a gift from Mexico to celebrate 100 years of independence for the Baltic nation. Today, visitors can see collaborative murals from this festival incorporating folk mythology and symbolism. Over 30 murals from the Mextonia Festival dot highways and cover walls throughout the city.

9. Valparaiso, Chile

Street art in Valparaiso, Chile. Gabriel White. CC BY-SA 2.0 DEED

Located on Central Chile’s Pacific Coast and often referred to as the Jewel of the Pacific, Valparaiso Chile is known to be among the most tagged cities in the world. Some murals in Valparaiso created by artists like Roberto Matta date back to the 1960s.

A couple of the best places to view Valparaiso’s breathtaking street art are Templeman Street and the open-air street art museum in Bellavista. Valparaiso’s hilly terrain provides numerous viewpoints for street art gazing.

A unique piece created in 2012 by Inti Castro spans three buildings and can only be viewed from Paseo de Atkinson in Concepcion Hill and Carcel Hill. Castro’s horizontal giant is far from the only street art you can see at Concepcion Hill, which is a great starting point for self-guided tours.