The Colonial Legacy of the Portuguese in Macau

Though Macau has been an autonomous region of China since 1998, its 400 years of Portuguese rule has given Macau a distinctive flair found nowhere else in Asia.

The pastel-colored buildings of Senado Square give off a European flair. Teen Wolf. CC BY-NC 2.0.

Macau, a Special Administrative Region (SAR) of China, located on the Pearl River Delta south of Guangdong province, was a Portuguese colony from 1557 to 1999. In its early years, the city quickly became a bustling commercial center, since it was at the crossroads of several notable trade routes. It was the gateway to China for the Portuguese. By the time Macau became a SAR of China  in 1999, ending the period of European colonization of Asia, the Portuguese had left their mark on the city. 

When the Portuguese first established Macau as a colony, settlement was limited to a small island that became the Macau Peninsula. As the original colony expanded, it incorporated the islands of Taipa and Coloane. Today, the land between Taipa and Coloane has been reclaimed, and the resulting strip of land, the Cotai Strip, is home to many casinos. Those casinos are one of the major economic drivers of Macau, generating even more revenue than Las Vegas, and they attract many tourists from around Asia. Macau is quickly becoming a cosmopolitan center, but the historic core of the region, on the Macau peninsula, is full of buildings constructed in the Portuguese style. Other influences remain of Portuguese rule, such as its cuisine, languages and legal system.

Architecture

The ruins of St. Paul’s Church. Christian Junker | Photography. CC BY-NC-ND 2.0. 

It is easy to spot the Portuguese influence on the buildings in Macau, because many of them have Ionic columns and baroque appearances. The Portuguese mainly left their mark on religious and administrative buildings in the city, such as the Ruins of St. Paul’s Church and the buildings of Senado Square. 

St. Paul’s Church was built between 1604 and 1640 by the Jesuits, and the church became their base of operations in Asia. It was the largest church in Asia at the time and was called the “Vatican of the Far East”. The baroque front of the church combines Eastern elements, as Japanese Christians who were fleeing persecution in their home country were involved with its construction. However, most of the church was made of wood, and much of it burned down during a typhoon in 1836. All that remains is its ornate façade, which has become a popular site in Macau.

The Holy House of Mercy is intricately linked with the early history of Macau. wiredtourist.com. CC BY 2.0.

The historic colonial administrative buildings are also preserved in Senado Square, which is full of pastel-colored, neo-classical buildings. It served as the main town square in centuries past and it contains a fountain. The square is flanked by the Leal Senado Building and the Holy House of Mercy. The Leal Senado Building, built in 1784 in a neoclassical style, was Macau’s first municipal chamber. Today, the building continues to host the city’s municipal council meets. There is also a Portuguese-styled courtyard behind the building.

Across Senado Square from the Leal Senado Building lies the Macau Holy House of Mercy. Built in 1569 shortly after the establishment of the colony, the Holy House of Mercy served as a medical institution originally and now serves a charitable institution. The Holy House of Mercy is also a present-day museum that holds a collection of Macau’s Catholic relics, telling the story of how Western culture entered Asia through the city.

Cuisine

Macau egg tart. foodnut.com. CC BY-NC-ND 2.0.

Portuguese influences also affect the food of Macau, which is “one of the best places in the world to sample Portuguese cuisine.” It is easy to find signature Portuguese dishes such as bacalhau, which is dried and salted cod, in local restaurants. 

Macau is also the home of the world’s first fusion cuisine, combining Chinese and Portuguese influences into local staples. Portuguese settlers in Macau added new spices and herbs to traditional Chinese foods and introduced new cooking methods like roasting, grilling and stewing to create a unique Macanese cuisine. Today, well-known Macanese dishes include minchi (considered Macau’s national dish and made from minced beef, soya sauce, onions and fried egg), tacho (a stew containing both Chinese and Western ingredients) and cappela (a meatloaf with cheese, black olives and breadcrumbs). Another popular dish, the Macau egg tart, has its origins in Portuguese pastries, but they are slightly different from similar dishes found in Portugal and neighboring Hong Kong.

Language

Street signs in Macau are still written in both Chinese and Portuguese. shankar s. CC BY 2.0.

The Portuguese language retained its official status in Macau after the handover, but only around 6,200 people speak it (based on the data from 2014). While its popularity dwindled in the years immediately following the handover, the Portuguese language has seen a resurgence in Macau due to the increase in Lusophone countries doing business with China, which is leading to a growing number of people learning it. 

Macau is also the home of the very unique creole language of Macanese Patois, also known as patuá to its native speakers, which is a combination of Cantonese and Portuguese with a few influences from Malay and Indian languages. There is no standard orthography in the language. The number of speakers is decreasing rapidly, and it is only spoken by around 50 people of Macanese ancestry. The Macanese people are a distinct group of people who are of mixed Portuguese and Chinese ancestry. However, there is a growing effort to preserve the language, with a drama group called Doci Papiaçam di Macau leading the revival by performing original plays in patuá.

Legal System

Macau government headquarters, which was also built in a Portuguese architectural style. Friscocali. CC BY-NC 2.0.

When Macau was returned to China in 1999, the Chinese government promised that Macau would be governed under the concept of “one country, two systems”. As part of that arrangement, Macau would be able to keep its existing political and economic systems for at least 50 years after becoming an SAR of China. Because of this, the legal code of Macau, though it is under Chinese sovereignty, is still based on the Portuguese legal code. However, recently, the Chinese government has undermined the agreements to keep the Portuguese legal code in place by removing Portuguese judges from presiding over sensitive cases. As China exerts more influences over Macau, which may have diminished some Portuguese influences, and the city could be in a much different place by 2049, when the agreement made in 1999 ends.

Bryan Fok

Bryan is currently a History and Global Affairs major at the University of Notre Dame. He aims to apply the notion of Integral Human Development as a framework for analyzing global issues. He enjoys hiking and visiting national parks.

By Refusing an Apology to Algeria, France Shows Colonialism is Far from Over

Algerian architecture reflects continued French influence post-decolonization. mariusz kluzniak. CC BY-NC-NC 2.0.

French President Emmanuel Macron announced on Jan. 20 that he has ruled out issuing an official apology to the country of Algeria for past colonial abuses. This follows 59 years of tense relations between the two nations after the conclusion of the Algerian War in 1962, which marked the end of official French colonialism in the North African country.

The announcement comes as a result of a highly anticipated report on the matter of French-Algerian relations commissioned by Macron in 2020. Rather than a formal apology, the report recommends a “memories and truth” commission to review French colonialism in Algeria. Macron committed to setting up the commission in a statement.

The French occupation of Algeria began with an invasion in 1830, and lasted up until 1962 with the end of the Algerian War, which led to independence. During the 132 years of colonial rule, the French committed a number of atrocities against Algerians, including the massacre of an estimated 500,000 to 1 million Algerians throughout the first three decades of conquest, the forced deportation of native Algerian groups and the use of systematic torture against Algerians during the country’s war for independence.

Since Algeria gained independence, the French government has largely remained silent in regard to the atrocities inflicted during the colonial era. In fact, Macron was the first French president to acknowledge the use of torture during the war for independence when he did so in 2018. Macron has since gone on to demand further accountability, including calls for all archives detailing the disappearance of Algerians during the war. However, the Jan. 20 announcement signals that an official apology remains out of the realm of possibilities for the time being.

Decolonization Efforts Remain a Global Necessity

Protesters marching in Philadelphia in support of Puerto Rican independence in 2018. Joe Piette. CC BY-NC-SA 2.0.

Macron’s announcement is the latest reminder of the continued stains of colonialism which remain in the 21st century. While many former colonial powers like France have largely dismantled their empires and relinquished control to local populations, colonialism and the occupation of Indgenous lands still persists to this day around the world.

Both France and the United Kingdom notably retain overseas territories which are remnants of the heights of their empires. France retains varying administrative control in 11 regions outside of Europe, with a combined population of nearly 2.8 million. Conversely, the British control 14 territories which do not form a part of the United Kingdom itself or its European crown dependencies, representing a combined population of approximately 250,000.

Colonialism, however, is by no means limited to European powers, nor is the process itself a relic of the past. The United States, a country whose foundation is rooted in settler colonialism, retains control over five inhabited territories spread across the Pacific and Atlantic oceans which have a combined population of just over 3.5 million, all of whom are ineligible to vote in federal elections. Likewise, Hawaii’s inclusion in the United States as a state is a result of colonialism in the region where the U.S. systematically undermined native rule throughout the 1800s. 

Japan, a country which saw the height of its empire come to an end during World War II, retains control over Hokkaido and Okinawa, two islands with distinct Indigenous populations which have both seen independence movements throughout their time with the country.

China is an example of contemporary colonialism: while not specifically setting up colonies in overseas regions, the country invests billions of dollars in projects to develop African nations on largely unfavorable terms, creates artificial islands in the South China Sea to exercise dominance in the region, and continues to squash independence movements in Tibet and Hong Kong.

While movements for independence, apologies and reparations exist to varying extents in all of these regions, the scars of colonialism persist to this day and remain a contemporary issue unlikely to be resolved in the near future.

Jacob Sutherland

Jacob is a recent graduate from the University of California San Diego where he majored in Political Science and minored in Spanish Language Studies. He previously served as the News Editor for The UCSD Guardian, and hopes to shed light on social justice issues in his work.