An Epic Motorbike Journey Through Northeast Vietnam

The Ha Giang Loop offers travelers a unique way to experience the natural beauty of Vietnam.

Mountain View on the Ha Giang Loop, Harper Noteboom.

Nestled against the southern Chinese border, the Ha Giang province serves as the great final frontier of Vietnam. The region is characterized by its striking limestone peaks, steep drop-off valleys and quaint roadside villages. Despite its natural beauty, its remoteness, at approximately 300 km outside of Hanoi, makes it less frequented among tourists. When I first embarked on my five-month solo trip through Southeast Asia, I had never heard of Ha Giang or the experiences it offered. But within a few weeks, I began to hear conversations about the region and the once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to be a passenger on or, for the braver travelers, to drive a motorbike for three days through lush valleys full of hairpin turns. Despite these conversations, nothing could have prepared me for the life-changing experience of the Ha Giang Loop. 

In the pre-dawn hours, our overcrowded semi-sleeper bus from Hanoi pulled into the city of Ha Giang. By 10 AM the street outside Jasmine Hostel was full of eager backpackers and their motorbikes. Being an inexperienced driver I opted to hire an easier ride, a Ha Giang local who would drive while I sat on the back. I would quickly be reassured that this was the right choice when I saw the injuries that a crash can inflict. We were sectioned off into groups of 15 and hit the road. 

Traffic jam on the Bac Sum Pass. Harper Noteboom 

We spent the first few hours of our drive traveling north out of the city of Ha Giang and over the Bac Sum pass. The first of many steep and narrow passes, Bac Sum is a 4.3 mile stretch of sharp zigzag turns at an altitude of 1475 feet. I was immediately encapsulated by the stunning mountain peaks that rose around me and began to understand its common nickname “Heaven Gate;” I truly felt like I was transcending the Earth and moving up into the Heavens. 

Throughout the day we made several stops to enjoy the view, take a necessary break from sitting, and eat some lunch. As we pulled away from one of our stops, I suddenly felt the bike start to slow down and emit a horrible creaking sound. We came to a complete stop and I watched as the rest of the group sped past leaving my driver and me in their dust. Suddenly I found myself completely alone on the side of a mountain with a driver who spoke no English and had no way to contact my friends. Through lots of pointing, I was instructed to sit down next to the bike and wait while my driver walked off to call someone. As I was sitting wondering how far ahead my friends were, two little girls appeared from their small roadside village and began to show me the flowers they had picked. Without any verbal communication we were able to appreciate the beauty of their flowers together. These girls belong to one of the many ethnic minority groups in the Ha Giang region. The loop not only serves as a beautiful journey for adventurous travelers but also as a lifeline between small, isolated minority communities and the modern world. In this small interaction, I was reminded of the true reason I was traveling, to experience and connect with people and cultures that were different from my own. 

Roadside Village. Harper Noteboom

Eventually, the leader of my group returned and put me on the back of his bike, he turned to me and said “Hold on tight we need to catch up”. And just like that, I was on my way to our homestay for the night. We closed out our first day with a delicious meal of authentic H’mong cuisine and shots of rice wine, accompanied by a chant-like toast from the group leaders. 

Pass along the Dong Van Plateau. Sabourock. CC BY-SA 4.0

We started day two with a visit to Kings' Royal Palace, the home of the traditional leader of the Hmong ethnic group. The 19th-century mansion, built fully by hand, combines Hmong, Chinese and French architecture and serves as both a majestic home and a protected army base. The palace's harmonic design and original furnishings transport the visitor back in time and give a real glance into the life of the Hmong King. After indulging in a traditional Vietnamese coffee, we took a brief drive to Lung Cu Flag Tower. At over 35 meters tall, the octagon-shaped tower sits at the northernmost point of Vietnam and represents unity and independence for the country, offering a panoramic view across the Chinese border. After our morning of traveling back in time, we departed for what would be one of the most terrifying, gut-wrenching and inspiring experiences of my life, the Skywalk. 

Entrance to Kings' Royal Palace. Gavin White. CC BY-NC-ND 2.0

Describing exactly what the Skywalk is and what it truly feels like to be there is no easy task. The beginning of the trail is extremely narrow and hugs the side of a mountain while snaking along its exterior. The short walk itself is nothing compared to the destination. A massive mound of rocks stretches out over the edge of a cliff and seems so perfectly balanced that a single shift would result in the complete crumbling of the cliff and all the people on it. From the side, one long, narrow, flat rock extends out from the rest. While barely big enough for two people and high enough that a misstep would result in a deadly drop, there was a long line of eager backpackers waiting for their turn to cautiously creep out onto the rock. When it was my turn to go, I was overwhelmed with fear and even glancing down sent my stomach into my chest, but I carefully and slowly crept to the edge and sat down. As I looked out at the 360-degree view of the sharp peaks and luscious fields below me, I felt like I was truly the queen of the world. In this moment I had a realization, this is what traveling is all about, this is what life is all about; it’s about facing your fears to fully take in the beautiful world that we are so blessed to explore. The memory of this moment is one I return to often, and I revel in the euphoria of travel and the beauty of experience. 

Skywalk. Harper Noteboom 

I rode the high of that moment for the rest of our drive to the quaint village where we would stay for the night. The following morning, as a final send-off, we took a cruise down the limestone-crested Tu San Canyon before our long, bumpy, and admittedly very dusty journey back to the city before catching our even longer bus back to Hanoi. 

Tu San Canyon. Ryan Le. CC0 

As I reflect on these 3 marvelous days, there's no way to describe the life-altering effect that the Ha Giang loop has had on me. I never thought I would have the chance to soar through epic mountain ranges on the back of a motorbike with some of my best friends, but I’m overjoyed that I did and I urge everyone who is visiting Vietnam to experience the Ha Giang Loop. 

Harper Noteboom

Harper is a student at Pomona College majoring in Computer Science while exploring many interests in the liberal arts nature. Her worldly curiosity and passion for traveling took her to The Netherlands for High School and then on a gap year around Southeast Asia. Harper hopes to share the immense joy of traveling through her writing. 

7 Stunning Caves Worth Exploring

Though caves often hold a fearsome reputation, they have a myriad of captivating natural features and intriguing histories. 

Caves often get a bad reputation: cold, dark, damp and uninteresting, or even frightening. In reality, caves offer snapshots of history, unusual natural structures, and examples of remarkable biodiversity. There are thousands of caves on Earth, and even more that are yet to be discovered. Each cave is unique, with specific natural formations that cannot be found anywhere else. Here are seven incredible caves to add to your list of must-see sights. 

1. Reed Flute Cave, China 

Called “the Palace of Natural Art,” Reed Flute Cave is known for its impressive stone curtains and pillars. Reed Flute Cave is located just 3 miles from downtown Guilin, China, and has been an attraction for centuries. Seventy-seven inscriptions of poems and travel descriptions can be found around the cave, and the oldest dates back to 790 A.D., the era of the Tang dynasty. There are inscriptions from the Tang, Song, Yuan and Ming dynasties, written by monks, poets, scholars and tourists from all over China. Today, the cave is lit by many multicolored lights hidden in its natural cracks and crevices, which cast a bright rainbow glow around the dark space, giving cave visitors a surreal and breathtaking experience. The cave was forgotten for years until its rediscovery in 1940, when a group of Chinese refugees stumbled upon it while fleeing from Japanese forces. During World War II, the cave’s large chamber, called the “Crystal Palace of the Dragon King,” was used as a bomb shelter. The cave regained popularity after its rediscovery at the end of the war, and was officially opened to the public in 1962. 

2. Waitomo Glowworm Caves, New Zealand 

Visitors to the Waitomo Glowworm Caves will take a trip into the past by exploring a cave over 30 million years old. The cave, located in Waitomo on the North Island of New Zealand,  is praised as one of New Zealand’s best natural attractions. It contains an underground river, towering rock formations, and thousands of shimmering glowworms. The Glowworm Caves have been an attraction for over 130 years. These limestone caves formed at the bottom of the ocean millions of years ago. Local Maori communities knew about the caves, but they were first explored in 1887 by Maori Chief Tane Tinorau and English surveyor Fred Mace. After discovering the natural beauty of the caves, Chief Tinorau opened the caves to tourists in 1889. Many of the guides for tours today are descendants of Chief Tinorau. Guides take visitors on walking tours through the caves, as well as boat tours through the glowworm grotto. These boat tours take visitors to the center of the grotto, where they can look up in awe at the luminescent glowworms covering the cave walls and ceiling.  

3. Mendenhall Ice Caves, Alaska

Just 12 miles outside downtown Juneau lies Mendenhall Glacier, known as the “Glacier Behind the Town.” Inside the glacier are the Mendenhall ice caves, passageways formed by water flowing through the glacier. These caves vary in size from tiny openings visitors have to squeeze through to giant caverns. Mendenhall Glacier was first explored in 1794 by Joseph Whidbey, a member of the British Royal Navy serving on Capt. George Vancouver’s 1791-95 expedition of the Pacific Northwest coast. To visit the caves, travelers can hike through the Tongass National Forest and then across the glacier, or they can canoe across Mendenhall Lake to the glacier. Both options offer breathtaking views of the glacier and surrounding landscapes, and both are somewhat strenuous but well worth the effort. Inside the caves, visitors are immersed in the cool blue shades of light coming through the glacier and can explore ever-changing ice formations. The caves change as the ice melts, so each visit to the Mendenhall ice caves is unique. The presence of the caves is also inconsistent and typically seasonal, so visitors should be sure to check on the status of the caves before planning a trip. 

4. Barton Creek Cave, Belize

To discover the wonders of Barton Creek Cave, visitors will have to board a canoe. Barton Creek Cave is located east of San Ignacio along the western edge of Belize. It is a wet cave because it has a cave river running through it, and paddling along this tranquil river is the only way to take in the cave’s majesty and history. It is the largest river cave in Belize and contains evidence of ancient Mayan culture. The cave is natural, but archaeologists have identified a number of areas they believe were purposefully modified by the Mayans to improve access to the cave. These modifications include natural formations of flowstone broken to allow access to a rimstone pool and holes drilled by Mayan tools, likely to serve as handholds or to attach climbing ropes. Ten ledges made by the Maya line the cave walls, where archaeologists have discovered thousands of pottery shards, most of which are from large jars called ollas, and a number of stone tools. These discoveries have helped archaeologists determine the use of the cave during Mayan times; it was likely the site of ritual activity and worship. The Maya regarded caves as sacred sites, and the artifacts found in Barton Creek Cave reflect this view. Tours through the cave offer visitors the opportunity to witness incredible natural formations and to learn how the ancient Mayans interacted with the cave. 

 5. Hang Son Doong, Vietnam 

For travelers who want to explore a cave but worry about darkness and small spaces, Son Doong Cave in central Vietnam is the perfect place to visit. Son Doong has the largest cross section of any cave in the world, reaching over 5 miles long, 650 feet wide and 490 feet tall. In some areas, the limestone ceiling of the cave grew weak and collapsed, creating huge skylights and allowing areas of lush vegetation to grow inside the cave. It was formed millions of years ago by the Rao Thuong River eroding limestone. Son Doong Cave was initially discovered in 1990 by a local man named Ho Khanh, who stumbled upon the entrance while searching the area for food and timber. He then returned home and no further exploration of the cave occurred until Howard and Deb Limbert, members of the British Cave Research Association, heard Ho Khanh’s story and urged him to find the cave again. In 2008, he successfully rediscovered the cave, and a survey was conducted by Howard Limbert and a group of British cavers. The cave opened to the public in 2013. Visitors are sure to be impressed by the sheer size of the cave, as well as its natural formations, river and distinctive vegetation growth. 

6. Puerto Princesa Underground River, Philippines

Located on Palawan, the westernmost island in the Philippines, Puerto Princesa Subterranean River National Park is home to old-growth forests, wildlife and an expansive limestone cave system. The Puerto Princesa Underground River, as it is commonly known, flows for over five miles through beautiful caverns and eventually meets the sea. Visitors can take underground river tours on paddleboats to see the stunning cave formations and limestone cliffs, as well as a variety of native animal species. There are records of the Puerto Princesa Underground River dating back to 1898, but it is believed to have been known to early inhabitants of the Philippines and investigated by foreign explorers prior to that time. The area was established as an official attraction in 1971, and the cave system is still being explored. In 2010, researchers discovered a large cave dome above the underground river, with more river channels and access to an even deeper cave. The Puerto Princesa Underground River offers an abundance of fascinating natural formations to explore. 

7. Shell Grotto, England 

Shell Grotto is one of England’s most mysterious sites, encompassing over 70 feet of tunnels under the seaside town of Margate. These caves were discovered by chance in 1835, when a man excavating his new land stumbled upon them. Sprawling mosaics made of mussel, oyster, whelk and cockle shells cover every wall of the tunnels. Historians are unsure of who built Shell Grotto, or why. Theories range from Shell Grotto being a place of worship to a simple display of extreme wealth to the meeting room of a secret society. The elaborate shell designs offer little explanation, displaying swirling patterns that can be interpreted as a number of different things. Shell Grotto is a tremendous work of art, and the questions surrounding its origin and purpose add a layer of intrigue that draws visitors from around the world. 

Rachel Lynch

Rachel is a student at Sarah Lawrence College in Bronxville, NY currently taking a semester off. She plans to study Writing and Child Development. Rachel loves to travel and is inspired by the places she’s been and everywhere she wants to go. She hopes to educate people on social justice issues and the history and culture of travel destinations through her writing.