Vietnam’s Floating Markets Are Disappearing

Kennedy Kiser

Climate change, migration and tourism are reshaping life on the Mekong Delta’s rivers.

Bananas being traded at the Cai Be floating market in Vietnam

Bananas being traded at the Cai Be floating market in Vietnam. McKay Savage. CC BY 2.0.

In Vietnam’s Mekong Delta, boats once crowded with fruits, vegetables and steaming bowls of noodle soup now drift by in dwindling numbers. The iconic floating markets, such as Cai Rang in Can Tho, are in decline. Rising sea levels and saltwater intrusion have transformed daily life in the delta, threatening these vibrant centers of commerce and culture.​ These markets have been around for generations, and in the 1990s, were major trade hubs. But today, many of these boats are gone.

The decline is largely environmental. The Mekong Delta, which supplies half of Vietnam’s rice and a third of its GDP, is being overwhelmed by rising sea levels and saltwater intrusion. Climate change has intensified these threats, but human activity plays a role too. According to Environmental Law Alliance Worldwide, the overuse of groundwater, upstream hydropower dams and sand mining have all accelerated the erosion and subsidence of the delta. As saltwater continues to creep further on land, fertile rice paddies turn sterile and make freshwater harder to access. For boat vendors, this means fewer crops to sell, higher transportation costs and increasingly unreliable river routes.

Saltwater intrusion impacts farmland in Vietnam’s Mekong Delta

Saltwater intrusion impacts farmland in Vietnam’s Mekong Delta. AFP. CC BY 4.0.

This decline in floating markets severely impacts local families, especially those who depend on the markets. Many vendors face dwindling incomes, leading to increased migration to urban areas in search of better opportunities. For instance, Nguyen Thi Thuy, a former farmer, was forced to leave her home due to saltwater intrusion and now works as a security guard in Ho Chi Minh City. Just a decade or two ago, her income from selling fruit on the water would have been enough to sustain a family.

Aerial view of storm surge over Thị Nại Bay, Quy Nhơn

Aerial view of storm surge over Thi Nai Bay, Quy Nhon, 1969. Bill Gann. CC BY 2.0.

Adding to this shift is an increasing generational divide. Many younger residents no longer see a future in river-based life. Education and tech-based jobs in the cities hold more appeal than selling local produce. In part, local governments are struggling to maintain these markets as an increasing number of vendors’ children choose to leave instead of inheriting the family business. As fewer people choose to stay, the floating communities face cultural erosion.

Passenger ferries at a harbor in Vietnam

Passenger ferries at a harbor in Vietnam. Rachel Claire. CC0.

Tourism presents both challenges and opportunities for the preservation of floating markets. While increased tourist interest can provide economic benefits, it can also lead to cultural commodification and environmental degradation. Some markets that have become more tourist-oriented have, in turn, seen their authenticity and traditional practices diminish.

However, efforts are underway to balance tourism development with cultural preservation. In 2016, the Can Tho City People’s Committee approved the Preserving and Developing Cai Rang Floating Market project. This project aims to promote tourism and environmental hygiene while transforming Cai Rang into a “hub for the Mekong Delta’s agricultural products.”.

The future of Vietnam’s floating markets hinges on sustainable practices that honor their cultural significance while adapting to environmental realities. Community engagement, responsible tourism and environmental conservatism are key to ensuring the survival and success of these markets. As the Mekong Delta navigates the challenges of climate change, preserving the unique heritage of its floating markets remains crucial.

Boats at the Cai Rang floating market in Can Tho

Boats at the Cai Rang floating market in Can Tho, Vietnam. pixiduc. CC BY 2.0.

For travelers hoping to experience the floating markets, visiting with care and intention matters. Cai Rang in Can Tho remains the largest and most accessible market. It is best visited early in the morning when trading is at its peak. Smaller markets like Phong Dien offer a local, less touristy atmosphere and are perfect for travelers seeking a quieter glimpse of daily life. Opt for small, locally operated boat tours and avoid bringing single-use plastics that could end up in the river. Supporting vendors by buying fresh produce or food dishes directly from their boats will not only enhance your experience but also help maintain these communities. By traveling mindfully, visitors can help preserve the spirit of Vietnam’s floating markets for generations to come.

Kennedy Kiser

Kennedy is an English and Comparative Literature major at UNC Chapel Hill. She’s interested in storytelling, digital media, and narrative design. Outside of class, she writes fiction and explores visual culture through film and games. She hopes to pursue a PhD and eventually teach literature! @kennedy_kiser

An Epic Motorbike Journey Through Northeast Vietnam

The Ha Giang Loop offers travelers a unique way to experience the natural beauty of Vietnam.

With a line of motorbikes driving along the rural highway, jagged lush mountains loom in the background and over the rice paddies roadside.

Mountain View on the Ha Giang Loop, Harper Noteboom.

Nestled against the southern Chinese border, the Ha Giang province serves as the great final frontier of Vietnam. The region is characterized by its striking limestone peaks, steep drop-off valleys and quaint roadside villages. Despite its natural beauty, its remoteness, at approximately 300 km outside of Hanoi, makes it less frequented among tourists. When I first embarked on my five-month solo trip through Southeast Asia, I had never heard of Ha Giang or the experiences it offered. But within a few weeks, I began to hear conversations about the region and the once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to be a passenger on or, for the braver travelers, to drive a motorbike for three days through lush valleys full of hairpin turns. Despite these conversations, nothing could have prepared me for the life-changing experience of the Ha Giang Loop. 

In the pre-dawn hours, our overcrowded semi-sleeper bus from Hanoi pulled into the city of Ha Giang. By 10 AM the street outside Jasmine Hostel was full of eager backpackers and their motorbikes. Being an inexperienced driver I opted to hire an easier ride, a Ha Giang local who would drive while I sat on the back. I would quickly be reassured that this was the right choice when I saw the injuries that a crash can inflict. We were sectioned off into groups of 15 and hit the road. 

On a narrow windy mountain pass road, a traffic jam with a long line of motorbikes trailing a large semi-truck. The mountains and the scenery is green and lush.

Traffic jam on the Bac Sum Pass. Harper Noteboom 

We spent the first few hours of our drive traveling north out of the city of Ha Giang and over the Bac Sum pass. The first of many steep and narrow passes, Bac Sum is a 4.3 mile stretch of sharp zigzag turns at an altitude of 1475 feet. I was immediately encapsulated by the stunning mountain peaks that rose around me and began to understand its common nickname “Heaven Gate;” I truly felt like I was transcending the Earth and moving up into the Heavens. 

Throughout the day we made several stops to enjoy the view, take a necessary break from sitting, and eat some lunch. As we pulled away from one of our stops, I suddenly felt the bike start to slow down and emit a horrible creaking sound. We came to a complete stop and I watched as the rest of the group sped past leaving my driver and me in their dust. Suddenly I found myself completely alone on the side of a mountain with a driver who spoke no English and had no way to contact my friends. Through lots of pointing, I was instructed to sit down next to the bike and wait while my driver walked off to call someone. As I was sitting wondering how far ahead my friends were, two little girls appeared from their small roadside village and began to show me the flowers they had picked. Without any verbal communication we were able to appreciate the beauty of their flowers together. These girls belong to one of the many ethnic minority groups in the Ha Giang region. The loop not only serves as a beautiful journey for adventurous travelers but also as a lifeline between small, isolated minority communities and the modern world. In this small interaction, I was reminded of the true reason I was traveling, to experience and connect with people and cultures that were different from my own. 

A look from above at a small remote village settled into a valley among the mountains. Surrounding the colorful homes are cultivated fields and rice paddies.

Roadside Village. Harper Noteboom

Eventually, the leader of my group returned and put me on the back of his bike, he turned to me and said “Hold on tight we need to catch up”. And just like that, I was on my way to our homestay for the night. We closed out our first day with a delicious meal of authentic H’mong cuisine and shots of rice wine, accompanied by a chant-like toast from the group leaders. 

The classic S-turn winding mountain pass view of the Ha Giang loop, as the road turns impossible through the jagged green mountainscape.

Pass along the Dong Van Plateau. Sabourock. CC BY-SA 4.0

We started day two with a visit to Kings' Royal Palace, the home of the traditional leader of the Hmong ethnic group. The 19th-century mansion, built fully by hand, combines Hmong, Chinese and French architecture and serves as both a majestic home and a protected army base. The palace's harmonic design and original furnishings transport the visitor back in time and give a real glance into the life of the Hmong King. After indulging in a traditional Vietnamese coffee, we took a brief drive to Lung Cu Flag Tower. At over 35 meters tall, the octagon-shaped tower sits at the northernmost point of Vietnam and represents unity and independence for the country, offering a panoramic view across the Chinese border. After our morning of traveling back in time, we departed for what would be one of the most terrifying, gut-wrenching and inspiring experiences of my life, the Skywalk. 

Entrance to Kings' Royal Palace. Gavin White. CC BY-NC-ND 2.0

Describing exactly what the Skywalk is and what it truly feels like to be there is no easy task. The beginning of the trail is extremely narrow and hugs the side of a mountain while snaking along its exterior. The short walk itself is nothing compared to the destination. A massive mound of rocks stretches out over the edge of a cliff and seems so perfectly balanced that a single shift would result in the complete crumbling of the cliff and all the people on it. From the side, one long, narrow, flat rock extends out from the rest. While barely big enough for two people and high enough that a misstep would result in a deadly drop, there was a long line of eager backpackers waiting for their turn to cautiously creep out onto the rock. When it was my turn to go, I was overwhelmed with fear and even glancing down sent my stomach into my chest, but I carefully and slowly crept to the edge and sat down. As I looked out at the 360-degree view of the sharp peaks and luscious fields below me, I felt like I was truly the queen of the world. In this moment I had a realization, this is what traveling is all about, this is what life is all about; it’s about facing your fears to fully take in the beautiful world that we are so blessed to explore. The memory of this moment is one I return to often, and I revel in the euphoria of travel and the beauty of experience. 

Girl sitting on an outcropped rock above massive drops into mountain valleys. The view behind her, which she is also admiring, is vast and awe-inspiring with massive lush mountains and a view of the windy road.

Skywalk. Harper Noteboom 

I rode the high of that moment for the rest of our drive to the quaint village where we would stay for the night. The following morning, as a final send-off, we took a cruise down the limestone-crested Tu San Canyon before our long, bumpy, and admittedly very dusty journey back to the city before catching our even longer bus back to Hanoi. 

A view down into the steep canyon at golden hour. At the wide river below, a few boats pass through as the massive mountain walls stand above them.

Tu San Canyon. Ryan Le. CC0 

As I reflect on these 3 marvelous days, there's no way to describe the life-altering effect that the Ha Giang loop has had on me. I never thought I would have the chance to soar through epic mountain ranges on the back of a motorbike with some of my best friends, but I’m overjoyed that I did and I urge everyone who is visiting Vietnam to experience the Ha Giang Loop. 

Harper Noteboom

Harper is a student at Pomona College majoring in Computer Science while exploring many interests in the liberal arts nature. Her worldly curiosity and passion for traveling took her to The Netherlands for High School and then on a gap year around Southeast Asia. Harper hopes to share the immense joy of traveling through her writing. 

7 Breathtaking Waterfalls Around The World

From the tropical jungles of the Philippines to the glacial mountains of Iceland, these seven waterfalls are some of the most beautiful out there.

The Cascadas de Agua Azul, located in southern Mexico, are a series of waterfalls on the Xanil River. Claudia Tavani. CC BY-NC 2.0.

Every year, countless travelers visit the world’s tallest waterfalls, with Niagara Falls receiving over 13 million visitors alone. However, it is only one of hundreds of waterfalls in North America, and one of thousands worldwide. Hidden away in corners of South America, Europe, Africa and Asia are a multitude of other falls that display nature’s power and beauty. Waterfalls are divided into ten categories depending on their geographic surroundings and how they descend through them.  These include punchbowl waterfalls like the Kawasan Falls at number three on our list, horsetail waterfalls, chutes, cataracts, cascades like the one found at Akchour at number seven on our list and block waterfalls formed by wide rivers falling in uninterrupted sheets, to name a few. Here are seven incredible highlights that may not be the tallest or widest in the world, but are absolutely unmissable simply for their sheer beauty.

1. Plitvice Waterfalls, Croatia

Croatia’s Plitvicka Jezera National Park is home to a beautiful network of lakes and waterfalls. Jack Brauer. CC BY-SA 2.0.

Located in central Croatia between the country’s capital of Zagreb and the coastal city of Zadar, Plitvice Lakes National Park has been a UNESCO World Heritage site since 1979. Its protected area spans 300 square kilometers (roughly 115 square miles) and comprises a network of lakes and caves, which are connected by a series of breathtaking waterfalls. These can be viewed from the various footpaths and wooden bridges that traverse the park, or visitors can also enjoy a boat ride included in the price of the entrance ticket. Because of its protected status, the park is also home to bears, wolves and eagles among a whole host of wild animals.

2. Iguazu Falls, Argentinian-Brazilian Border

A birds eye view of one of the many waterfalls in Iguazu National Park, Argentina. Tomfriedel. CC BY 2.0.

The Iguazu Falls stretch for 2.7 kilometers (around 1.7 miles) along the border between the Misiones province in Western Argentina and the state of Paraná in Eastern Brazil. Altogether, the network makes up the largest system of waterfalls in the world, and was accordingly named a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1984. Thanks to a longstanding preservation effort in the two national parks on either side of the border that share custody of the falls, a network of walkways and viewing platforms can bring visitors very close to the falls, including near the bottom in an area called “Devil’s Throat”. You can travel to the falls by car from both the Brazilian and Argentinian sides, as well as from the Ciudad del Este in Paraguay. 

3. Kawasan Falls, Cebu Island, Philippines

Kawasan Falls is hidden away in the jungles of Cebu Island, Philippines. Vicky Flip Flop. CC BY-NC-ND 2.0.

The Instagram famous turquoise waters of Kawasan Falls are reachable by a three-hour bus ride southwest of Cebu City in the Philippines. The tropical waterfall is accompanied by limestone canyons and a dense jungle, all of which surround the pools often referred to as the “Gatorade Factory” due to their incredible color. Located in the coastal municipality of Badian, visitors can hike the kilometer and a half (just under a mile) long route uphill to reach the first and largest of many waterfalls that make up the series. Those interested in spending more time in the area can even book cottages available for overnight stays, though most opt to simply rent bamboo rafts to explore the pools.

 4. Gullfoss, Iceland

Iceland is home to numerous waterfalls with the Gullfoss Waterfall being a favorite among locals. O Palsson. CC BY 2.0.

The Icelandic name Gullfoss translates into “golden falls” in English, a reference to the sediment in the Hvita River from the nearby glacier that causes this spectacular waterfall to glow gold in the Nordic sunlight. Located a 90-minute drive west of the capital of Reykjavik, the two cascades that form Gullfoss are not actually that tall, falling for a total of only 31 meters (roughly 102 feet). However, seeing the waterfall up close can still be a deafening experience with floods of water going over the edge at a rate of around 109 cubic meters (just under 50,000 cubic feet) per second. There aren’t any railings or barriers either, so it is up to visitors to keep a safe distance from the cliff’s edge.

5. Weeping Wall, Hawai’i, USA

Travelers can visit Hawai’i’s Weeping Wall located in the heart of Kauai Island. Ahonui Bowman. CC BY-NC-ND 2.0.

Hawai’i is well-known for its incredible natural beauty, and the Weeping Wall is one of many spectacular sites on the island of Kauai. The network consists of a series of extremely narrow waterfalls winding across the centrally located Mount Waialeale, which stands 1,569 meters (about 5,066 feet) tall. The mountain’s name translates from Hawaiian to “overflowing water”, given that this location is in fact the second wettest area on the planet, and receives just under 11.5 meters (just under 37.5 feet) of rain every year. Given the mountain’s height, visitors rarely get a view of the upper part of the falls as it is often hidden in the clouds, but watching the water tumble down through the tropical greenery is still an incredible sight to see.

6. Ban Gioc Waterfall, Vietnam

A view of the Ban Gioc Waterfalls from Cao Bang, Vietnam. Applejuice. CC BY-SA 2.0.

Located on the border between the Cao Bang province in Northern Vietnam and the Guang Xi province in Western China, the Ban Gioc falls are the largest waterfall network in Asia. The waterfall stretches over 30 (about 98 feet) across on the Chinese side where it is known to locals as the De Tian Waterfall instead. Ban Gioc cascades down over three tiers of lush greenery, feeding directly into the Quay Son River, which in fact runs along the China-Vietnam border. Traveling to the falls from the Vietnamese capital of Hanoi normally takes visitors about two days to complete, with an overnight stop in Cao Bang City to split up the six and a half hour drive. 

7. Cascades D’akchour, Morocco

The higher of the two waterfalls that make up Cascades D’akchour near Chefchaouen, Morocco. Culture Trekking. CC BY-ND 2.0.

The Cascades D’akchour are tucked in amongst the Rif Mountains, the northernmost chain in Morocco. Reachable via a 45-minute drive from the famed “blue city” of Chefchaouen, visitors can enjoy a mountainous trek connecting several smaller waterfalls before arriving at the final cascade whose upper section tumbles down 100 meters of rock face (roughly 328 feet) into a collecting pool. The lower cascade, on the other hand, stands at a much smaller 20 meters tall (just under 66 feet) but also features a natural swimming pool just upstream of its descent over the cliff. For those interested in exploring even further, another hour and a half of hiking can bring you to the Pont de Dieu or Bridge of God, a naturally formed rock bridge carved out of the mountain by the Farda River.

Tanaya Vohra

Tanaya is an undergraduate student pursuing a major in Public Health at the University of Chicago. She's lived in Asia, Europe and North America and wants to share her love of travel and exploring new cultures through her writing.

7 Stunning Caves Worth Exploring

Though caves often hold a fearsome reputation, they have a myriad of captivating natural features and intriguing histories. 

Caves often get a bad reputation: cold, dark, damp and uninteresting, or even frightening. In reality, caves offer snapshots of history, unusual natural structures, and examples of remarkable biodiversity. There are thousands of caves on Earth, and even more that are yet to be discovered. Each cave is unique, with specific natural formations that cannot be found anywhere else. Here are seven incredible caves to add to your list of must-see sights. 

1. Reed Flute Cave, China 

Called “the Palace of Natural Art,” Reed Flute Cave is known for its impressive stone curtains and pillars. Reed Flute Cave is located just 3 miles from downtown Guilin, China, and has been an attraction for centuries. Seventy-seven inscriptions of poems and travel descriptions can be found around the cave, and the oldest dates back to 790 A.D., the era of the Tang dynasty. There are inscriptions from the Tang, Song, Yuan and Ming dynasties, written by monks, poets, scholars and tourists from all over China. Today, the cave is lit by many multicolored lights hidden in its natural cracks and crevices, which cast a bright rainbow glow around the dark space, giving cave visitors a surreal and breathtaking experience. The cave was forgotten for years until its rediscovery in 1940, when a group of Chinese refugees stumbled upon it while fleeing from Japanese forces. During World War II, the cave’s large chamber, called the “Crystal Palace of the Dragon King,” was used as a bomb shelter. The cave regained popularity after its rediscovery at the end of the war, and was officially opened to the public in 1962. 

2. Waitomo Glowworm Caves, New Zealand 

Visitors to the Waitomo Glowworm Caves will take a trip into the past by exploring a cave over 30 million years old. The cave, located in Waitomo on the North Island of New Zealand,  is praised as one of New Zealand’s best natural attractions. It contains an underground river, towering rock formations, and thousands of shimmering glowworms. The Glowworm Caves have been an attraction for over 130 years. These limestone caves formed at the bottom of the ocean millions of years ago. Local Maori communities knew about the caves, but they were first explored in 1887 by Maori Chief Tane Tinorau and English surveyor Fred Mace. After discovering the natural beauty of the caves, Chief Tinorau opened the caves to tourists in 1889. Many of the guides for tours today are descendants of Chief Tinorau. Guides take visitors on walking tours through the caves, as well as boat tours through the glowworm grotto. These boat tours take visitors to the center of the grotto, where they can look up in awe at the luminescent glowworms covering the cave walls and ceiling.  

3. Mendenhall Ice Caves, Alaska

Just 12 miles outside downtown Juneau lies Mendenhall Glacier, known as the “Glacier Behind the Town.” Inside the glacier are the Mendenhall ice caves, passageways formed by water flowing through the glacier. These caves vary in size from tiny openings visitors have to squeeze through to giant caverns. Mendenhall Glacier was first explored in 1794 by Joseph Whidbey, a member of the British Royal Navy serving on Capt. George Vancouver’s 1791-95 expedition of the Pacific Northwest coast. To visit the caves, travelers can hike through the Tongass National Forest and then across the glacier, or they can canoe across Mendenhall Lake to the glacier. Both options offer breathtaking views of the glacier and surrounding landscapes, and both are somewhat strenuous but well worth the effort. Inside the caves, visitors are immersed in the cool blue shades of light coming through the glacier and can explore ever-changing ice formations. The caves change as the ice melts, so each visit to the Mendenhall ice caves is unique. The presence of the caves is also inconsistent and typically seasonal, so visitors should be sure to check on the status of the caves before planning a trip. 

4. Barton Creek Cave, Belize

To discover the wonders of Barton Creek Cave, visitors will have to board a canoe. Barton Creek Cave is located east of San Ignacio along the western edge of Belize. It is a wet cave because it has a cave river running through it, and paddling along this tranquil river is the only way to take in the cave’s majesty and history. It is the largest river cave in Belize and contains evidence of ancient Mayan culture. The cave is natural, but archaeologists have identified a number of areas they believe were purposefully modified by the Mayans to improve access to the cave. These modifications include natural formations of flowstone broken to allow access to a rimstone pool and holes drilled by Mayan tools, likely to serve as handholds or to attach climbing ropes. Ten ledges made by the Maya line the cave walls, where archaeologists have discovered thousands of pottery shards, most of which are from large jars called ollas, and a number of stone tools. These discoveries have helped archaeologists determine the use of the cave during Mayan times; it was likely the site of ritual activity and worship. The Maya regarded caves as sacred sites, and the artifacts found in Barton Creek Cave reflect this view. Tours through the cave offer visitors the opportunity to witness incredible natural formations and to learn how the ancient Mayans interacted with the cave. 

 5. Hang Son Doong, Vietnam 

For travelers who want to explore a cave but worry about darkness and small spaces, Son Doong Cave in central Vietnam is the perfect place to visit. Son Doong has the largest cross section of any cave in the world, reaching over 5 miles long, 650 feet wide and 490 feet tall. In some areas, the limestone ceiling of the cave grew weak and collapsed, creating huge skylights and allowing areas of lush vegetation to grow inside the cave. It was formed millions of years ago by the Rao Thuong River eroding limestone. Son Doong Cave was initially discovered in 1990 by a local man named Ho Khanh, who stumbled upon the entrance while searching the area for food and timber. He then returned home and no further exploration of the cave occurred until Howard and Deb Limbert, members of the British Cave Research Association, heard Ho Khanh’s story and urged him to find the cave again. In 2008, he successfully rediscovered the cave, and a survey was conducted by Howard Limbert and a group of British cavers. The cave opened to the public in 2013. Visitors are sure to be impressed by the sheer size of the cave, as well as its natural formations, river and distinctive vegetation growth. 

6. Puerto Princesa Underground River, Philippines

Located on Palawan, the westernmost island in the Philippines, Puerto Princesa Subterranean River National Park is home to old-growth forests, wildlife and an expansive limestone cave system. The Puerto Princesa Underground River, as it is commonly known, flows for over five miles through beautiful caverns and eventually meets the sea. Visitors can take underground river tours on paddleboats to see the stunning cave formations and limestone cliffs, as well as a variety of native animal species. There are records of the Puerto Princesa Underground River dating back to 1898, but it is believed to have been known to early inhabitants of the Philippines and investigated by foreign explorers prior to that time. The area was established as an official attraction in 1971, and the cave system is still being explored. In 2010, researchers discovered a large cave dome above the underground river, with more river channels and access to an even deeper cave. The Puerto Princesa Underground River offers an abundance of fascinating natural formations to explore. 

7. Shell Grotto, England 

Shell Grotto is one of England’s most mysterious sites, encompassing over 70 feet of tunnels under the seaside town of Margate. These caves were discovered by chance in 1835, when a man excavating his new land stumbled upon them. Sprawling mosaics made of mussel, oyster, whelk and cockle shells cover every wall of the tunnels. Historians are unsure of who built Shell Grotto, or why. Theories range from Shell Grotto being a place of worship to a simple display of extreme wealth to the meeting room of a secret society. The elaborate shell designs offer little explanation, displaying swirling patterns that can be interpreted as a number of different things. Shell Grotto is a tremendous work of art, and the questions surrounding its origin and purpose add a layer of intrigue that draws visitors from around the world. 

Rachel Lynch

Rachel is a student at Sarah Lawrence College in Bronxville, NY currently taking a semester off. She plans to study Writing and Child Development. Rachel loves to travel and is inspired by the places she’s been and everywhere she wants to go. She hopes to educate people on social justice issues and the history and culture of travel destinations through her writing.

Beyond the Wall, Berlin’s Multicultural Roots Shine Through

When Germany’s capital is mentioned, people often think of Berlin’s turbulent history, thriving arts scene and hipster culture. However, multiculturalism ought to also come to mind. With 21% of its population hailing from non-German backgrounds representing 190 countries, Berlin is becoming a true melting pot. Often nicknamed “Multikulti,” Berlin portrays itself as a tolerant city aiming to attract talent from abroad while celebrating its diversity within.  

Guest-workers from Hungary in East Germany. Lehmann. 30 Sept. 1988. CC3.0

A History of Migration 

After World War II, the Allied Powers divided Berlin into four regions. The American, British and French regions made up West Berlin and the region occupied by the Soviet Union made up East Berlin. Immigration to Berlin was largely influenced by the dynamics of the divided city’s various zones. After the war, there was a strong need for labor to help rebuild Germany. West Germany recruited “guest-workers” to fill this need from nearby areas such as Turkey and southeastern Europe. The East German government recruited guest-workers from other socialist countries, such as North Vietnam and North Korea. More recently, many immigrants escaping conflicts in the Middle East and North Africa have sought refuge in Berlin.

An Arabic market in Neukolln Gürer CC2.0

Multicultural Districts in Berlin

Although Berlin has a sizable international population, being an immigrant in the city is not without its problems. Areas of Berlin with high immigrant populations tend to be weaker economically and are known for social problems including high unemployment, increased crime rates, drug trafficking and gentrification. Ethnic minorities are usually present only in certain neighborhoods and are underrepresented in German popular culture and politics. Immigrants are also subjected to acts of hatred and violence due to strongholds of White nationalism in areas of East Berlin. Additionally, previous immigration policies in Berlin have focused on tolerating, rather than accepting, immigrants in the city. The term “Auslander” or foreigner negatively refers to immigrants in Germany, speaking to the difficulties they face with integrating into German society.

However, things are slowly changing. Immigrant communities in Berlin are proudly showcasing their cultures for others to see. Travelers who visit Berlin’s multicultural hubs can help change the narrative of immigration in Germany. 

Sehitlik Mosque in Berlin’s Neukolln district. Zairon CC International 4.0

Neukolln

Today, the majority of Berlin’s immigrant population resides in the center of the city in the districts of Neukolln and Kreuzberg. Although previously known for its unemployment and drug problems, Neukolln is reinventing itself as a hip and multicultural center. One of Neukolln’s iconic areas is Sonnenallee, often nicknamed “Arab Street,” which is home to many Middle Eastern restaurants, grocery stores and baklava shops. Walking through Sonnenallee, one is nearly as likely to hear various Arabic dialects and Turkish as German. Neukolln is also home to the Sehitlik Mosque, which is the most visited mosque in Berlin. The mosque participates in the Long Night of Religions, an annual event where houses of worship all over the city open their doors to the public to promote tolerance and interreligious dialogue. 

Turkish market in Kreuzberg. Gürer. CC2.0

Kreuzberg

Berlin’s Kreuzberg district is often nicknamed “Little Istanbul” for good reason; the neighborhood is home to the largest Turkish population outside of Turkey. On Tuesdays and Fridays, Kreuzberg hosts an expansive Turkish Market, selling everything from fresh produce and spices to fabrics and street food. Kreuzberg is an excellent place to try Turkish staples such as doner kebab and gozleme. Markthalle Neun is another acclaimed international market in Berlin. On Thursday evenings, it hosts “Street Food Thursday” with seemingly endless vendors serving diverse culinary options. Berlin’s Jewish Museum, also located in Kreuzberg, is the largest museum in Europe focusing on Jewish history and culture. Known for its nightlife and hip culture, Kreuzburg is rising in popularity. At the same time, this has given rise to gentrification which makes it difficult for migrant families to afford life there. 

One of the many warehouses in the Dong Xuan Center in East Berlin. Gürer. CC2.0

East Berlin’s Vietnamese Population 

Vietnamese make up the largest Southeast Asian population in Berlin, most of whom reside in the eastern part of the city. The Dong Xuan Center in Lichtenberg is home to Berlin’s hub of Vietnamese culture: a warehouse-like market that contains vegetable shops, clothing stores, beauty salons and authentic restaurants. 

The House of World Cultures in Berlin. Mennerich. CC 2.0

House of World Cultures 

Founded in 1989, the House of World Cultures is an arts and cultural center that hosts exhibitions, conferences and themes focused predominantly on non-Western cultures and societies. Located in the Tiergarten area near the Spree River, the center’s primary focus is to provide Berliners with an authentic view of contemporary art and culture from around the world. Past events include a Korean film festival and various world music events. 

Performer at the annual Carnival of Cultures. Reichert. CC 2.0

Carnival of Cultures

The Carnival of Cultures is a four-day celebration of Berlin’s cultural diversity that occurs every spring. Festivities include music, dance, street performances, street food and crafts. On Pentecost Sunday, the last day of the celebration, a procession of floats travels through Kreuzberg.

Immigration has shaped Berlin’s culture and history for decades, providing a fascinating framework for travelers to explore. Despite the contested status of refugees in Germany today, migration into Berlin is nothing new. Visiting these multicultural spaces is a step toward tolerance and appreciation of the beauty and diversity so often brought about by means of immigration.

Megan Gürer

is a Turkish-American student at Wellesley College in Massachusetts studying Biological Sciences. Passionate about environmental issues and learning about other cultures, she dreams of exploring the globe. In her free time, she enjoys cooking, singing, and composing music.