South Africa’s Town of Penguins

June 15, 2022

The small port town Simon’s Town is full of amazing marine life, most notably the African Penguin colony that is just outside the town center.

Jackass Penguins Simon’s Town SA. Donnie Ray. CC BY-NC-ND 2.0

Located on the southwestern coast of South Africa, Simon’s Town is a small village surrounded by both the ocean and the mountains. Being so close to Cape Town, Simon’s Town is a beautiful, small port city.

Simon’s Town is on a part of the Cape Peninsula known as False Bay. This area is a Hope Spot, an important and protected area for the ocean’s health. It is a valuable area for wildlife, with various species of birds and marine life coming to live off the area. Large marine creatures such as dolphins, whales, seals and sharks can be found near the town, some close enough to see while kayaking and others closer to Seal Island, 8 nautical miles away from the harbor.

However, much smaller than these other sea creatures is Simon’s Town’s famous attarction –the penguin colony. Penguins are found on every continent in the Southern Hemisphere, all the way from the Galápagos Islands at the equator to Antarctica. Here in this small town in South Africa, one colony of African penguins known as the Boulders Colony regularly comes ashore. Because of the colony, the town is also named Penguin Town. Breeding season for these birds is between February to August, so it is more common to see penguins during those months, but the birds will also come to land while they are molting. People can watch them from afar, and even swim alongside them, as long as they don’t get too close or chase them because the penguins will bite.

Simon’s Town (9). Joe Pyrek. CC BY-SA 2.0

African penguins–also known as black-footed penguins, Cape penguins, and jackass penguins (the last one because of their unique braying-like sounds)–are an endangered species of penguins, with only around 140,000 penguins in the world. They are small birds, only growing between 24-27 inches and weighing around 8-9 pounds. In addition to the black backs and white fronts, they have a black, parabolic band across their chests, though chicks and juvenile members are brown and gray. The population of this species started declining in the 1980s due to commercial fishing and oil pollution. Though penguins do eat more than just fish, it is the largest part of their diet and commercial fishing has been taking all the species that the penguins eat. Luckily, commercial fishing has been banned in False Bay, so African penguins’ food supply belongs to them and the other sea creatures again. The oil pollution is another serious issue for the birds because the oil will destroy their waterproof feathers, making it hard for them to swim.

There are 27 breeding sites for African penguins, and each of them is a protected habitat, including Simon’s Town, though the town did have to erect fences and boardwalks to prevent the penguins from wandering too far inland and into people’s gardens and backyards. The entire area is a sanctuary for penguins, and keeping them from invading residents’ properties can help people respect the animals, as well as helping the number of penguins to increase.

The Islands of Hong Kong: Hidden Oases Next to a Bustling City

June 14, 2022

Hong Kong is known as an urban center, but just a short ferry ride away from downtown are traditional fishing villages and untamed beaches waiting to be explored.

Tai O village, sometimes called the Venice of the Orient. Christian Junker | Photography. CC BY-NC-ND 2.0.

Hong Kong is a city of contrasts. It is where crowded slums stand next to glimmering skyscrapers, where its British legacy endures proudly with its Eastern roots, where poverty lives alongside some of the greatest riches in the world. It is also one of the most densely populated cities, with a population density of 17,311 people per square mile, packed inside a small urban center surrounded by mountains and outlying islands.

But right outside the hustle of businesspeople lies a different side of Hong Kong. In some of the outer islands, just 10 away from Central, people live simple lives, sustaining themselves by fishing. Other islands are completely free of development and offer secluded beaches. These islands are part of the New Territories, which is included in the land that make up Hong Kong but have been largely free of development until recently. Nevertheless, it is possible to seek solitude just a short ferry ride away from the heart of Hong Kong, whether it is for a unique cultural experience or for a thrilling outdoor adventure.

Lantau Island

While Lantau Island, the largest in the special administrative region, is the location of the city’s airport and has some development on its northern side, the interior and southern side of the island holds quaint villages and massive religious monuments. In the interior of the island, one can find the Po Lin Monastery, a Buddhist monastery established in 1906, and the Big Buddha statue, a massive bronze sculpture of the Buddha completed in 1993. Taking inspiration from ancient Buddhist art forms, these sites offer a great opportunity to learn about the religion’s tradition. These sites are accessible via the Ngong Ping 360 cable car, which takes riders up the mountains from a commercial center near the airport.

On the western coast of Lantau Island lies the village of Tai O, a fishing village partially built on stilts over the water. The villagers there hold on to their traditional way of life, resisting the integration of their lives into modern Hong Kong society. Visitors to the village can experience an authentic fishing village unaffected by the hustle of modern society. Besides trying out the local cuisine, visitors can also take a boat tour to try to spot the endangered Chinese white dolphin.

Cheung Chau Island

Tung Wan beach. Lewi Hirvela. CC BY-NC-SA 2.0.

A 45-minute ferry ride from Central, Cheung Chau Island offers an adventure for all types of travelers. The island has a long history, being inhabited since prehistoric times. Ancient rock carvings left on the island by its earliest inhabitants have been declared as a monument of Hong Kong. In the 18th century, the island was the site of a pirate hideout. Today, the Cheung Po Tsai cave, where some booty of the pirate of the same name has been hidden, is open to the public to explore.

For those who prefer chilling on the beach, there are two public beaches on the island. Tung Wan beach, located at the heart of the island by the main village, offers soft sand, showers and changing rooms, concession stands, and all the amenities of conventional beach. The other beach, Kwun Yam, is a bit more out-of-the-way, with a smaller swimming area and coarser sand. However, it is the windsurfer’s paradise and was the training ground for Olympic windsurfing champion Lee Lai-Shan, who earned Hong Kong’s first gold medal in the 1996 Atlanta games.

Lamma Island

More laid back than Lantau and Cheung Chau, Lamma Island offers an idyllic landscape. There is an extensive network of paths that takes visitors to a variety of sites around the island, from Hung Shing Yeh beach to the Tin Hau temple. That temple is a prime example of the East-meets-West theme seen throughout Hong Kong; the otherwise Eastern-style temple is guarded by two statues of Western-style lions.

At the Sok Kwu Wan village, visitors can learn about the island’s fishing tradition. The Lamma Fisherfolks’ Village showcases the local fishing culture and history in Hong Kong for visitors. Floating fish farm rafts are spread out across the bay. A trip to Lamma cannot be completed without eating at one of the local restaurants, which serve freshly caught seafood from the island’s waters.

Po Toi and Tung Ping Chau Islands

The rocky coastline of Po Toi Island. Eddie Yip. CC BY-SA 2.0.

These two islands are for the more adventurous types of travelers. They are free from development. Po Toi, the southernmost of Hong Kong’s islands, is completely off the electrical grid, with its few buildings getting electricity from a small generator. This rocky island has many hiking trails, including one to Nam Kok Tsui, the southernmost point in Hong Kong. For the more brave, Mo’s Old House, an abandoned mansion built in the 1930s, is said to be haunted.

Similarly, Tung Ping Chau island, in the remote far-northeast corner of the special administrative region, is also undeveloped. Unlike the rest of Hong Kong, it is composed of shale, resulting in an interesting geologic pattern. While the east side of the island has a sandy beach used for diving, the main focus of the island is its unique rock formations. The special geologic formations have made it a place of scientific interest. Today, it is a part of the UNESCO Global Geoparks network.

5 Cave Painting Sites that Paint a Picture of Prehistoric Life

April 27, 2022

Cave paintings provide valuable knowledge about the culture of prehistoric civilizations. These five cave painting sites contain some of the oldest and most fascinating prehistoric art from around the world.

Lascaux Cave paintings in France. Bayes Ahmed. CC BY 2.0.

From Argentina to Bulgaria, humans have been creating art since the dawn of civilization. This art is sometimes the only way to glean certain details about prehistoric culture in various parts of the world. Each of the following five sites provides a unique insight into culture, religion, social life and more, as early as the Stone Age, which spanned from about 2.5 million years ago to 5,000 years ago.

1. Bhimbetka Rock Shelters - India

Paintings of animals at Bhimbetka Rock Shelters. Arian Zwegers. CC BY 2.0.

The cave paintings at the Bhimbetka Rock Shelters in Madhya Pradesh, India, date from the late stone age to early historic period. These paintings and carvings reflect many realities of prehistoric life, depicting animals, religious rituals, agricultural practices and social life. Many artifacts have also been found in the Bhimbetka Rock Shelters, such as stone tools likely used for agricultural purposes. Because of the significant facts about early Indian life that have been provided by this cave art, the Bhimbetka Rock Shelters have been declared a World Heritage Site.

2. La Cueva de Los Manos - Argentina

Handprint paintings. Ryan Somma. CC BY-SA 2.0.

La Cueva de Los Manos or “the cave of hands” is aptly named; this cave painting located in Santa Cruz, Argentina is mostly a collection of handprints, estimated to have been created between 9,500 and 13,000 years ago. The handprints are believed to have been made from mineral pigments by early hunter-gatherer tribes. The meaning of the hands is unknown, but some have theorized they represent an initiation of teen boys into adulthood, due to the size of the hands. In addition to the hands, the cave also contains paintings of animals such as llamas, birds and pumas.

3. The Magura Cave - Bulgaria

Paintings at Magura Cave. Klearchos Kapoutsis. CC BY 2.0.

The Magura Cave in Belogradchik, Bulgaria contains an extensive number of paintings made of bat droppings between 4000-8000 years ago. There are approximately 700 paintings in the cave. The paintings depict anything from people dancing and hunting to religious rituals. The cultural significance of the themes painted, as well as the sheer number of paintings, makes the Magura Cave a significant cultural monument.

4. Lascaux Cave Paintings - France

Painting of an animal in Lascaux Cave. Christine. McIntosh. CC BY-ND 2.0.

The paintings of the Lascaux Cave in Dordogne, France are estimated to be 15,000-17,000 years old, stumbled upon by a group of teenage boys in 1940. Interestingly, among the approximately 600 paintings and 1,500 engravings, there is only one image of a human, making this site differ significantly from the others mentioned, which all depict daily human life in some way. In fact, the human form painted has the head of a bird. Other than this, most of the paintings are of various animals, both real and imaginary. What would be known as a modern day unicorn is even depicted. The Lascaux Cave tells us more about the imagination and storytelling practices of the people of prehistoric France than it does their concrete, daily practices.

5. Laas Geel - Somalia

Cow at Laas Geel. Najeeb. CC BY- SA 2.0.

Laas Geel, in Hargeisa, Somalia, is a collection of rock paintings discovered in 2002. Laas Geel depicts cows, painted with a vibrant red pigment. What is interesting about these cows is that they appear to have some type of ceremonial necklace or hanging around their necks. Many of the cows also appear to be wearing crowns or have some sort of halo-like object around their heads. The cows are often depicted next to humans and dogs. These depictions indicate that cows played some sort of ceremonial role, bringing up important questions about early religion and culture in Somalia.

Recording the Sounds of Extinction

February 6, 2017

Bernie Krause has been recording wildlife sounds, or "soundscapes," for over forty years. He's amassed the largest archive in the world, and in doing so, can chart how wildlife sounds have changed over the course of climate change. Listen for yourself: the rising silence speaks volumes.

A Gathering of Giants

February 3, 2017

It was late afternoon and the sun was low in the sky.

I had spent the entire day, and many days prior, scanning the horizon for signs of life. My small boat bobbed up and down in the swell. Every now and then, a wave crest slapped its fiberglass hull, creating a resounding clap and shooting a curtain of spray skyward.

The shimmering glare of reflected tropical light was overwhelming. I squinted and rubbed my eyes, as a haze of brine and dissolved SPF 50 blurred my vision. When a faint puff of condensation shot into the air on the horizon, I thought it was a mirage, an artifact of fatigue and my compromised senses. But when I saw a second, I knew there was only one thing it could be—the exhalation of a surfacing whale. Excitedly, I counted a third, then a fourth, a dozen… no, hundreds!

That’s how I came to witness a phenomenon few have ever seen before. Skimming over the waves, I stopped the boat a short distance from where I had seen the whales’ last blow and slipped quietly into the sea.

I could scarcely believe my eyes.

Spread across many square kilometers, this large cluster of sperm whales was part of an enormous gathering of hundreds, if not thousands, of individuals and family groups that were actively engaged in a frenzy of physical contact and biosonar communication.

Hundreds of sperm whales (Physeter macrocephalus) swam to and fro, their huge bodies elegantly twirling and twisting through the water as they socialized and communicated. Bumping, jostling, and rubbing themselves against one another, they were exuberantly tactile — their behavior appeared almost euphoric. I felt rather like a gatecrasher at a wedding, so obvious was their delight in each other’s company.

Part of the vast gathering of sperm whales, this family group made up of dozens of individuals clicked, blew bubbles, rubbed their bodies against one another, dived to forage for food, and defecated almost continuously.

As my eyes took in this secret spectacle, my ears were assaulted by a cacophony of excited whale chatter. Creaking and crackling, clicks, buzzes, and pops permeated the water as the whales pinged one another with sound. Pulsating rhythms pregnant with meaning penetrated the fibres of my body. I “felt” the connection between the congregated cetaceans as powerfully as I heard it. Moving together in groups several dozen strong, the whales occasionally descended to deeper water, but largely stayed near the surface, giving me a privileged view.

*An inquisitive sperm whale calf approaches, buzzing me with biosonar. The calf was part of a family group of several adult females and three juveniles.*

Watching carefully, I noticed that two other activities added to the commotion — sloughing of skin and defecation. Like other whales, sperm whales shed skin on a regular basis. It is thought that this may be a mechanism to reduce the risk of infection and to rid the animals of external parasites. As the whales rubbed against one another, the physical contact dislodged flakes, sometimes entire sheets, of skin, which floated in the water like a blizzard of translucent dandruff.

Group defecation also seemed to play a prominent role at this gathering. When a dozen or more whales defecated simultaneously, it created a cloud of poop that engulfed the ensemble, obscuring them from view and turning the seawater into an oily soup.

Although the reason for such behavior is not entirely understood, recent research suggests defecation by large marine mammals plays a vital role in the ocean’s nutrient cycle. Sperm whales, for instance, consume deep-dwelling squids. They then defecate near the ocean surface, releasing iron and other nutrients. This, in turn, supports plankton blooms that help to mediate the accumulation of carbon in the atmosphere.

Sperm whales defecating while engaged in a massive social gathering. Defecation like this is common in sperm whale social gatherings, as is the shedding or ‘sloughing’ of skin, which further clouds the water in this shot.

To gain a deeper understanding of the factors that contribute to such spectacular aggregations of sperm whales, we need first to consider some basics of the species’ biology and social structure.

Sperm whales are mammals and live in almost every major ocean, including tropical and temperate waters. They breathe air and are warm-blooded. Yet they spend the majority of their lives in deep, dark, cold water foraging for food, often diving to depths of 800 meters or more in the process. It helps to think of them not as air-breathing animals that dive, but as creatures of the deep that occasionally visit the surface to breathe. In other words, the opposite of how humans relate to the ocean.

Unlike other whales, such as humpbacks, whose existence as it relates to food is best described as feast or famine, sperm whales forage constantly. But the ocean is a big place, and much of it is a nutritional desert, so they are most often found where there is abundant prey. They dine primarily on squid, although they have been known to eat fish and octopuses. These days, they also occasionally mistake plastic for prey.

A dead Ancistrocheirus lesueuri squid, a cephalopod typically found at depths between 200 and 1000 meters. An important part of the sperm whale’s diet, this specimen was found at the surface, floating upside down, but it’s not known what killed this individual.

Sperm whale society is structured along matrilineal lines, with adult females and their offspring forming the basis of a social unit. Such units typically comprise a dozen or more individuals, though average numbers and unit structures vary across ocean basins. Female offspring generally stay with their social units, while males leave as they mature, striking out to form loose groups with other young males. Together, they seek out prey in the nutrient-rich waters of higher latitudes.

A curious adult sperm whale hanging just below the ocean surface, with two other members of her family group just visible. Note the whitened area around her mouth, typical of sperm whales, and also the teeth of her lower jaw. They do not have teeth in their upper jaw.

Recent research suggests that sperm whales organize their societies and keep tabs on one another using sound. Each individual uses its own “voice,” or acoustic signature, to identify itself, and each social unit uses a set of unique sounds, called codas, that are distinct from those used by other units. Going even further, multiple sperm whale social units that have similar codas, or “vocal dialects,” and socialize from time to time, are known as clans. These larger groupings of sperm whales, which can comprise many thousands of individuals scattered across vast regions of ocean, maintain a sense of extended group identity and long-term association through the use and recognition of similar codas.

Sperm whales appear to use acoustical hierarchy to establish identity on at least three levels — self, family, and extended group.

An adult female sperm whale—the dominant member of this group—carries a large piece of a giant squid brought up from the deep trench below. Members of the family played with leftover bits of the squid, shredding their meal, perhaps part of weaning the calf.

In light of these insights around communication and social structure, the factors that likely contributed to the incredible congregation of sperm whales I encountered that day become easier to understand.

Sperm whales tend to be found wherever the hunting is good—and so, predictably, I spotted the aggregation in a location with abundant squid prey. They are also highly social—and so an encounter involving multiple social units in a given clan produces a riot of sound and energy. It was, in a sense, a vast reunion with plenty to eat and communicate about. But why was a cetacean convention of such magnitude being held?

The short answer is, we don’t know.

Other social animals also engage in occasional, large, communal gatherings. Elephants, for example, have matrilineal social units and extended clans similar to those of sperm whales. During the dry season, large numbers of elephants aggregate around sources of water and families may take the opportunity to socialize.

But while there are many potential parallels between sperm whale gatherings and those of elephants, there isn’t enough data or even anecdotal observation at this stage for scientists to draw meaningful conclusions about sperm whale get-togethers.

Their exact purpose remains a mystery.

*A family of sperm whales engaged in intense social activity, including a great deal of physical contact between individuals, and biosonar communication.*

It is tempting to speculate that sperm whale gatherings like this may have been much more common in the days before industrialized whaling decimated their numbers. W.D. Boyer reported coming across an enormous gathering of sperm whales in Peru in 1945, just before the escalation of large-scale whaling. He wrote: “… the entire ocean, to all visible limits of the horizon, seemed spotted with them. The sum total was a school of gigantic proportions… It took the vessel nearly an hour to travel through the main body of the school…”

Although commercial hunting of sperm whales began in the 18th century, the majority of reported kills took place between 1950 and 1980 when harpoon guns became more widely used. Whaling records show that more than 638,000 sperm whales were killed during this period. Today, population estimates for sperm whales fall in the range of 300,000 to 400,000, significantly down from more than a million whales worldwide before large-scale hunting began in the last century. Sperm whales are currently classified on the IUCN’s Red List as Vulnerable.

Two sperm whales surface in close proximity to a large commercial container vessel traveling at speed through a commercial shipping lane. Despite important gains in whale conservation efforts, lethal ship strikes continue to take a heavy toll on many whale populations.

Large-scale industrialized whaling ended relatively recently. Because sperm whales reach sexual maturity at a late age—around 10 years for females and up to 20 years for males—and because they produce few young, their recovery has been slow. But perhaps given time and steadily increasing populations, these large aggregations will occur and be documented more often.

Today, although widespread hunting is no longer an issue, sperm whales still face a litany of threats. Ship strikes cause terminal injuries, fishing gear strangles and entangles them, and ingested plastics block their guts, causing them to starve with full stomachs.

Earlier this year, when thirteen sperm whales beached themselves in Germany, researchers found plastic garbage in the stomachs of four of the dead whales. Trash ingested by the dead sperm whales included a nearly 13-meter-long (43-foot-long) shrimp fishing net, a plastic engine cover, and the remains of a plastic bucket. Though most people have never seen a sperm whale, the byproducts of our modern societies often reach marine mammals without our knowledge, and can have devastating effects.

*An aggregation of sperm whales engaged in social activity. This large gathering persisted for two days.*

Humans have a long and checkered history with sperm whales. In the past, we feared them. We hunted and killed them. It is only relatively recently that we have taken the time to try to get to know them.

What we have learned is that far from being fearsome monsters intent on destroying ships, sperm whales are in fact highly intelligent creatures with complex social and cultural bonds, mediated by behavioral nuances that rival our own. And yet so much about them remains a mystery, including their spectacular and secret mass gatherings.

The fact that we understand so little about such large and magnificent animals as the sperm whale, despite our shared history and planet, leads one to wonder what else we don’t know about life in the ocean.

A curious family of sperm whales, comprising several adult females and three juveniles. The prominent white stripes on the surface of the adult in the foreground made it relatively easy to distinguish this family unit from the many dozens of others gathered nearby.

PARTING THOUGHT

It is probably obvious that sperm whales have been, and continue to be, an important part of my life. From my first encounter, when a sperm whale hit me with biosonar and then took me into its mouth, I have been hooked.

That whale changed the course of my life.

I am always keen to share the experiences that I have had, the things that I have learned, and to discuss the questions and mysteries that remain.

I am deeply troubled however, by the rapid increase in people who lead and go on trips to seek encounters with whales, without having any knowledge about the animals, or any demonstrable concern for the animals’ welfare.

In March 2016, I watched an armada of speedboats chase a social unit of sperm whales that had just surfaced from a deep foraging dive. The boats zoomed around each other, throwing tourists in willy-nilly, while other boats raced to do the same, paying no heed to the people already in the water.

After an extended deep dive, the sperm whales needed to replenish their air supply. Instead they were forced down after only 10 breaths by the swarm of reckless boats, carrying ignorant, selfish trip leaders who were happy to choke the whales for the sake of a photo and bragging rights. Interfering with a whale’s breathing cycle causes the animal considerable distress. Yet each time the whales surfaced to breathe, the boats cut them off. Over and over.

Wanting no part of the mayhem and harassment, my friends and I moved our boat to another location and waited. The whales eventually showed up, electing to escape the hordes, as I had thought they might. I asked my friends to count the number of breaths the whales took when they were not disturbed. The first one that came up from a deep dive took 54 breaths.

10 versus 54. That is quantification of harassment.

Please do not be one of those ugly tourists.

Should you decide to watch whales from a boat, or to enter the water where permitted, do your homework on the operator, consider the ethics carefully, and above all, please behave with the best interests of the animals at heart.

THIS ARTICLE WAS ORIGINALLY PUBLISHED ON MAPTIA.

Learn more about responsible whale watching here.

A version of this story was originally published over on Biographic, with help from Sophie Stafford.

Explore more of the author's work at tonywublog.com

TONY WU

Internationally recognized professional underwater photographer. Equal parts nature/marine biology geek, visual art lover, technophile, hopeless dreamer, vagabond, and photography nut.

Nomads of Mongolia

January 31, 2017

Life in Western Mongolia is an adventure. Training eagles to hunt, herding yaks, and racing camels are just a few of the daily activities of the nomadic Kazakh people. Filmmaker Brandon Li spent a few weeks living with them and experiencing one of the most unique cultures in the world. Saddle up and enjoy the ride.

VIDEO: The Rhino Guardians in South Africa

January 26, 2017

In 2016 I travelled to South Africa to visit The Black Mambas - the worlds first all female anti-poaching unit operating in the Balule Game Reserve in South Africa. Coming from disadvantaged communities and breaking strong patriarchal tradition, these courageous women focus on eliminating illegal wildlife trade through conservation, education and the protection of wildlife, helping to ensure the long term survival of threatened and endangered species in the area. Each day they patrol up to 20km, unarmed, looking for poachers, wire-snares, and break-ins along the fence line. Their lives are at constant risk from poachers and the dangerous wildlife they protect.

It is their belief that the war on poaching will not be won with guns and bullets, but through education within their local communities.