Oaxaca — World News, Travel and Social Action

Color and culture unite in the streets of Mexico’s Oaxaca.

People dancing during parade. Imogen Volland.

It was an overcast day late June, but downtown Oaxaca was anything but dreary. The cobblestone streets were an explosion of laughter and music, the adobe buildings adorned with flags and banners. The parade was a party and everyone was invited. We weaved our way through the bustling streets, singing along to the Selena song blasting from a nearby speaker, passing by bakeries, bars, markets and boutiques.

Last year, I had the privilege of attending Oaxaca’s annual pride parade, which attracts hundreds of locals and tourists alike. Located in southwestern Mexico, Oaxaca is nestled in the Sierra Madre mountain range. The region is renowned for its mouthwatering cuisine, including mole, tlayuda, enfrijoladas and chocolate. It also boasts a vibrant arts scene. The winding streets are adorned with murals, and the region is famous for its handicrafts including candle making, pottery and embroidery. Even with a population of over 300,000, Oaxaca feels like a small town. With pride month expanding worldwide, corporations are finding new ways to capitalize off of the movement, however, the pride parade in Oaxaca is not commercially sponsored. It’s a community effort, celebrating inclusivity, unity and belonging in a historically Catholic country.

People carrying flags during parade. Imogen Volland.

Historically occupied by the Zapotec and Mixtec tribes, Oaxaca has a rich culture steeped in indigenous heritage, celebrated during the Guelaguetza festival in July. The Zapotecs occupied Oaxaca from 500 BCE to 900 CE and were followed by the Mixtecs around 1350 CE. Zapotec culture is unique in that it wasn’t rooted in conquest, and masculinity was associated with more “feminine” hobbies like art, craftsmanship and dance. A third gender is recognized in Zapotec culture, the muxe (also spelled muxhe), people who were assigned male at birth who dress or behave more “feminine.” Gender non-conformity in non-Western cultures dates back centuries. The two-gender binary system prevalent in Western cultures was a product of colonization and imperialism, in which Indigenous tribes were forced to surrender their cultural traditions, including the acknowledgement of a third gender. The Muxe still occupy Oaxaca today, defying heteronormative standards and carrying on the Zapotec tradition.

In 2012, the Supreme Court overturned a law preventing same-sex marriages in Oaxaca. Since the legalization of same-sex marriage across all of Mexico in 2022, Oaxaca has rapidly become one of the country’s most gay-friendly hotspots, featuring a variety of gay-owned and gay-friendly shops, restaurants and bars. Cuizzita Cafe is a queer-owned, community-oriented coffee shop with a casual, comfortable atmosphere, offering board games, puzzles and books for customers to use. Club 502 is Oaxaca’s first gay club with mixed drinks, dancing, karaoke and drag shows. Confetti Pool Club is a queer-owned hostel with a pool, swim-up bar, rooftop seating and live music. The hostel is a six-minute walk from the Mitla archeological site.

People carrying posters on platform. Imogen Volland.

This year, Oaxaca’s annual pride parade will be held on Saturday, June 22 at 3 p.m. from the Fuente de las Ocho Regiones. For more information about the parade, as well as other upcoming pride events in Mexico, follow the link here. For a celebration of life, and of love, I highly recommend visiting Oaxaca this June. Happy Pride Month!

Agnes Volland

Agnes is a student at UC Berkeley majoring in Interdisciplinary Studies and minoring in Creative Writing, with a research focus on road trip culture in America. She currently writes for BARE Magazine and Caravan Travel & Style Magazine. She is working on a novel that follows two sisters as they road trip down Highway 40, from California to Oklahoma. In the future, she hopes to pursue a career in journalism, publishing, or research.

The annual Guelaguetza festival is one of the largest Indigenous celebrations in Mexico, preserving Oaxaca culture and tradition.

Women performing at the Guelaguetza Festival. Jen Wilton. CC BY 2.0

Oaxaca City’s Guelaguetza festival is a celebration of community and strength that occurs annually on the two Mondays after July 16. Also referred to as “Los Lunes del Cerro,” the festival has been a longstanding tradition in Oaxaca culture that predates Spanish colonization of the land in the 16th century. Although the cultural significance of the festival has shifted over the years, its core value of unity remains deeply rooted in the celebrations.

Prior to Spanish invasion, the festival had close ties to the religious celebration of the goddess of maize Centéotl in order to ensure a successful harvest season. While Centéotl still has a place in modern Guelaguetza celebrations, after Spanish colonization, festivities began to integrate Christian elements such as the feast day Our Lady of Mount Carmel which occurs on July 16.

The term “Guelaguetza” means “reciprocal exchanges of gifts and services” in the Zapotec language, which is the overarching structure of the festival. Historically, during Oaxacan celebrations, those attending would each bring some sort of item that was needed for the celebration such as food or supplies. These “guelaguetza” allowed the celebration to exist and exemplified the value of collaboration.

During the Guelaguetza festival in particular, inhabitants of Oaxaca’s eight regions unite, bringing their own unique traditions and knowledge to share with the larger community.

A couple dancing at the Guelaguetza Festival. Larry Lamsa. CC BY 2.0

Particularly, an exchange of culture occurs through song, dance and clothing. Individuals from each of the eight regions spend months prior to the festival perfecting song and dance routines to perform for the festival's attendees. After performing the number in their region's traditional clothing, they toss significant cultural items into the crowd. This exchange allows Oaxaca’s sub-cultures to not only exist but to thrive.

In addition to culture, there are plenty of other exchanges that occur during the festival, such as sharing traditional food that is prepared by inhabitants of each region and selling artisanal crafts in the city center.

The Guelaguetza festival has been traditionally celebrated on Cerro del Fortín, or Fortin Hill, in Oaxaca. In the 1970s an amphitheater was built specifically for the celebration. Seating 11,000 people, the amphitheater was built directly into a hill so that those looking down at the stage are able to clearly view the city below.

Oaxaca is home to sixteen different Indigenous groups in addition to its eight regions, so there is a vast array of cultures within the larger Oaxaca culture. Annual Guelaguetza celebrations have preserved these cultures over the years despite colonization and increasing tourism in the region, ensuring that Oaxacan traditions and stories will be preserved for coming generations.