A Glimpse into Oaxaca City’s Guelaguetza Festival 

The annual Guelaguetza festival is one of the largest Indigenous celebrations in Mexico, preserving Oaxaca culture and tradition. 

Women performing at the Guelaguetza Festival. Jen Wilton. CC BY 2.0

Oaxaca City’s Guelaguetza festival is a celebration of community and strength that occurs annually on the two Mondays after July 16. Also referred to as “Los Lunes del Cerro,” the festival has been a longstanding tradition in Oaxaca culture that predates Spanish colonization of the land in the 16th century. Although the cultural significance of the festival has shifted over the years, its core value of unity remains deeply rooted in the celebrations. 

Prior to Spanish invasion, the festival had close ties to the religious celebration of the goddess of maize Centéotl in order to ensure a successful harvest season. While Centéotl still has a place in modern Guelaguetza celebrations, after Spanish colonization, festivities began to integrate Christian elements such as the feast day Our Lady of Mount Carmel which occurs on July 16. 

The term “Guelaguetza” means “reciprocal exchanges of gifts and services” in the Zapotec language, which is the overarching structure of the festival. Historically, during Oaxacan celebrations, those attending would each bring some sort of item that was needed for the celebration such as food or supplies. These “guelaguetza” allowed the celebration to exist and exemplified the value of collaboration.

During the Guelaguetza festival in particular, inhabitants of Oaxaca’s eight regions unite, bringing their own unique traditions and knowledge to share with the larger community.  

A couple dancing at the Guelaguetza Festival. Larry Lamsa. CC BY 2.0

Particularly, an exchange of culture occurs through song, dance and clothing. Individuals from each of the eight regions spend months prior to the festival perfecting song and dance routines to perform for the festival's attendees. After performing the number in their region's traditional clothing, they toss significant cultural items into the crowd. This exchange allows Oaxaca’s sub-cultures to not only exist but to thrive. 

In addition to culture, there are plenty of other exchanges that occur during the festival, such as sharing traditional food that is prepared by inhabitants of each region and selling artisanal crafts in the city center.  

The Guelaguetza festival has been traditionally celebrated on Cerro del Fortín, or Fortin Hill, in Oaxaca. In the 1970s an amphitheater was built specifically for the celebration. Seating 11,000 people, the amphitheater was built directly into a hill so that those looking down at the stage are able to clearly view the city below. 

Oaxaca is home to sixteen different Indigenous groups in addition to its eight regions, so there is a vast array of cultures within the larger Oaxaca culture. Annual Guelaguetza celebrations have preserved these cultures over the years despite colonization and increasing tourism in the region, ensuring that Oaxacan traditions and stories will be preserved for coming generations. 

Zara Irshad  

Cultural Significance of the Summer Solstice in Greece

For the past 2,500 years, Greece has been celebrating the summer solstice as a time of equality. Today, some Greeks have carried these traditions forward. 

Sunset over Oia, Greece. Eugene Chan. Unsplash. 

The summer solstice marks the longest period of daylight in the calendar year, as well as the official beginning of summer. The exact date of the solstice changes by a few days each year depending on the Earth's position in orbit around the sun. This year, it is expected to fall on June 20th in the Northern Hemisphere. While many countries have specific celebrations of the summer solstice, Greece has some of the most unique and meaningful traditions to commemorate the event in modern times. 

The importance of the summer solstice to the Greeks dates back to the creation of calendar systems, many of which were developed based on geographical region. For example, the Athenian calendar spanned from summer solstice to summer solstice, and the Delphic calendar began around the first new moon after the solstice. 

This solar orientation led ancient Greek communities to develop new year celebrations around the summer solstice, the most prominent being the festival of Kronia. The celebration was devoted to Kronos, the father of Zeus, and was a harvest festival. 

The festival of Kronia was unique because it temporarily diverged from the ancient Greek rigid social hierarchy. It marked a momentary freedom from class restraints where slaves and lords celebrated together, sometimes even reversing roles, in order to mimic Kronos’  “Golden Age” of equality and peace. 

The solstice was also preserved through rituals and routines, such as lighting fires at crossroads. This practice allowed communities to purge their homes of waste by discarding items into the fire, and was representative of renewal. Furthermore, it was believed that jumping over these fires would allow hopes and dreams to come true. 

Many summer solstice festivities revolve around the themes of purifying and rebirth, and serve as an opportunity for communities to cleanse themselves of the past—similar to New Year's resolutions. Many of these traditions are still practiced today by some Greek communities. However, the equality represented in the ancient festival of Kronia is exemplified differently today, due to the abolition of the ancient Greek rigid social hierarchies 

Rather than physical equality between social levels, equality is represented through social harmony and peace. This is most prevalent in the annual trek to the peak of Mt. Olympus which celebrates the summer solstice and is believed to emulate a similar sense of harmony. 

The peak of Mt. Olympus in Greece. Billy Onjea. Unsplash.

Over the years, the Greeks have continued to recognize the rich cultural significance of the summer solstice. They have not only adapted old customs to fit modern times, but have also developed new ones which continue to honor the renewal and revitalization that a new cycle of time brings. 

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Zara Irshad

Zara is a third year Communication student at the University of California, San Diego. Her passion for journalism comes from her love of storytelling and desire to learn about others. In addition to writing at CATALYST, she is an Opinion Writer for the UCSD Guardian, which allows her to incorporate various perspectives into her work.

A Glimpse at Azerbaijan, Central Asia’s ‘Land of Fire’

Although a relatively new nation, Azerbaijan’s multifaceted culture from its historic tea rituals to its unique pomegranate festival makes it especially intriguing.

 A mountainous region in Azerbaijan. Pozziss. CC0.

Azerbaijan, a former Soviet republic located in the southern Caucasus, stands as a diverse and exquisite country. Although the Russian imperialism of the past retains some influence, the “Land of Fire” prides itself on its many unique traditions which can be fully experienced today.  

Tea Rituals

 Black tea served in an armudu. Idin Ebrahimi. Unsplash

Tea is a prevalent part of Azeri culture, to the extent that it is served with every meal. The locals predominantly drink black tea and serve it in a pear-like glass called an armudu. This tradition was passed down from medieval times, when black tea was taken alongside a sugar cube to avoid assassination, as sugar tends to react with potential toxins in the drink. This tradition continues even today, as locals can be seen taking a bite of a sugar cube before sipping their tea. 

 


The Importance of Fire

 Temple of Fire in Baku. Diego Delso. CC BY-SA 4.0

Azerbaijan is also known for its national symbol of fire, and the country is recognized as a place where “the sacred fire is preserved.” “Azer” in Persian means “fire,” and the entire country is known as the “Land of Fire.” Although the exact reason behind this cannot be tracked to one specific moment, there are various potential reasons for why fire holds such a special place in this nation. First, although a large proportion of Azeris are Muslim, Zoroastrianism still holds a large influence on Azerbaijan. Zoroastrianism focuses on the worship of fire, water, Earth and wind. Thus, respect for nature is highly ingrained within Azeri culture. Moreover, the country’s “huge underground gas deposits” commonly lead to natural flames. 

 

Food 

 Azeri dish known as kelem dolmasi. CC BY 3.0

Food is also a large part of Azeri culture, and one can find an array of distinct, delicious and healthy dishes. The reason for this is the large farming culture in Azerbaijan, which is possible due to the country’s extensive tracts of fertile land. This means that the nation grows a multitude of vegetables and fruits, with flavorful meats and herbs rounding out Azeri meals. Due to Azerbaijan’s vibrant culinary scene, food is given a high position in culture, where sharing food with another person is a sign of friendship. 


 Goychay Pomegranate Festival

 A booth at the Goychay Pomegranate Festival. Moonsun1981. CC BY-SA 3.0

Although many fruits are popular in Azerbaijan due to its fertile land, pomegranates are given the highest title as the symbol for love, luxuriance and eternal life. To commemorate the importance of this fruit, a pomegranate festival known as Nar Bayrami is celebrated every November in the city of Goychay, where over 50,000 tons of pomegranates are produced annually. Guests in this festival are welcomed by locals with an array of pomegranate dishes ranging from jams to baked goods to juices. Moreover, during the festival many vendors set up their shops with distinct varieties of this fruit. Other festivities include traditional dancing, instrumental music by local musicians, and competitions such as picking out the heaviest pomegranates from the lot. 

 Strides Toward Gender Equality

Kalbajar School in Azerbaijan. World Bank Photo Collection. CC BY-NC-ND 2.0

In 1918, Azerbaijan became the first country in the Islamic world to give women the right to vote. Gender equality comes partly as a legacy of Russian imperialism, as the culture placed large importance on respecting women. Women’s equality continues to be a notable social norm in Azerbaijan, and it is normal for Azeri women to hold positions of political power. On a day-to-day basis, men commonly offer their seats to women and hold the door for them.


Gracious Hospitality

 Two Azeri women picking out tomatoes. Asian Development Bank. CC BY-NC-ND 2.0

 Generous behavior isn’t only reserved for women in Azerbaijan; it extends to guests as well. Hospitality is a common trait across the majority of Azeri citizens, who are often willing to provide shelter and food to their guests, regardless of the trouble they must go through. If one receives the luxury of going to a Azeri’s home, they should remember to take off their shoes before entering, and to remain standing until told where to sit. Moreover, as Azerbaijan is renowned for its food, guests should not refuse a serving as that may be misunderstood as a rude gesture. 

 In all, Azerbaijan’s riveting culture makes it an intriguing nation to visit. Despite its minuscule size, the country has much to offer to those willing to take a chance on it. 

WANT TO LEARN MORE? CHECK OUT THIS VIDEO AND EXPLORE THE MAGNIFICENCE OF AZERBAIJAN.

Swati Agarwal

Swati is a sophomore at University of California, San Diego, where she is studying Environmental Sciences and Theatre. Although born in India, she was raised in Tokyo, which gave her the opportunity to interact with diverse people from distinct cultures. She is passionate about writing, and hopes to inspire others by spreading awareness about social justice issues and highlighting the uniqueness of the world.

Vienna Rocks On at the World’s Largest Music Festival

Austria’s Danube Island Festival attracts around 3 million visitors annually. The festival spans three days, offers all kinds of music, and is completely free to attend. 

Each year at the end of June, millions of people flock to an island in Vienna for a three-day musical event. The Danube Island Festival, as the event is known, is the world’s biggest open-air music festival, attracting over 3.3 million visitors every year. The festival hosts more than 2,000 musicians across three days and 19 stages, contains numerous food and souvenir stalls, and essentially turns the island into a giant, booming party—and admission is free. 

The Danube Island Festival is held on Danube Island, a 13-mile man-made island located between the Danube River and a parallel, excavated channel known as the New Danube. When the island was created in 1972, its primary function was to serve as part of Vienna’s flood prevention system; the Danube crosses the city, so flooding is a major concern. Now Danube Island is a hub of recreation, complete with beaches, a trampoline center, a climbing park, a network of trails, and a few bars and restaurants. Danube Island is also full of wide green spaces, which easily become the venues for the Danube Island Festival. The island is located only a few minutes away from Vienna’s city center, making it a wonderful venue, as festivalgoers can stay in the city and sightsee while still having quick access to the festival grounds. 

What would grow into the world’s biggest music festival began as a promotional event for Danube Island. In 1983, Austrian politician Harry Kopietz introduced the idea of a one-day party on Danube Island to demonstrate its value as a recreational area. Event organizers expected around 15,000 people to show up and were stunned when the party had over 160,000 attendees. Since the event was wildly successful, it was held again the following year, and the number of visitors nearly doubled. The Danube Island Festival has been an annual event ever since, and has steadily grown in popularity to reach the millions of visitors it has today. The festival also increased in length from one day to three, to accommodate the number of visitors and to provide more performances. 

The festival offers music for everyone, from little-known local bands to world-famous headliners and everything in between, in a multitude of genres. In past years, there have even been performances from the Vienna Symphony Orchestra. Headliners have also included the Backstreet Boys and Simple Minds, as well as a number of artists famous among German speakers. 

Even the COVID-19 pandemic couldn’t put a stop to the Danube Island Festival, which occurred in alternate form in 2020. Instead of one large three-day event, the 2020 festival took place over 80 days and throughout Vienna; a double-decker bus with an open-air stage on top toured the city, bringing over 200 live performances to the Viennese people. For 2021, the festival is scheduled to take place from Sept. 17-19 in a hybrid format. The double-decker performance bus will be back roaming the city from August to September, and festival organizers hope to hold a scaled-down version of the festival with mostly local acts if public health permits. 

Rachel Lynch

Rachel is a student at Sarah Lawrence College in Bronxville, NY currently taking a semester off. She plans to study Writing and Child Development. Rachel loves to travel and is inspired by the places she’s been and everywhere she wants to go. She hopes to educate people on social justice issues and the history and culture of travel destinations through her writing.

7 Dazzling Light Festivals 

What better time to explore a new city than during a magnificent festival of lights? These seven festivals are annual events sure to immerse visitors in vivid lights and unique cultures. 

Lights are an important part of culture and art around the world. They symbolize new beginnings, celebrate historic traditions and are glimmering, eye-catching sources of entertainment. Many countries host annual festivals with lights at their center. These seven light festivals display floating lanterns, light sculptures, intricate projections and even raging bonfires. The lights on display vary from festival to festival, as does the history behind each event, but every event is sure to dazzle visitors. 

1. Las Fallas de Valencia, Spain

Each year over a million revelers gather in Valencia, Spain, for this five-day fire festival. Las Fallas begins on March 15, when more than 700 “ninots,” towering statues made of cardboard, papier mache, wood or plaster, are set up around the city. The ninots are eye-catching: often multiple stories tall, colorful and exaggerated depictions of current events and satirical scenes. Las Fallas originates from an old carpenter's tradition of burning materials on March 19 to celebrate the arrival of spring. The carpenters’ bonfires of old wood and rags developed into the elaborate ninots seen today. On the final day of the festival, March 19, all but one of the ninots are set ablaze in the festival's dramatic climax. The ninot that is spared from the fire, known as the “ninot indultat,” is chosen by popular vote and preserved in Valencia’s Fallas Museum alongside ninot indultats from years past. While the ninots and their burning are the festival’s main attraction, they are far from all that Las Fallas has to offer. Daily firework shows light up the sky, and music, parades and delicious authentic food are sure to keep visitors entertained. 

2. Festival of Lights, France

France’s Festival of Lights, a tradition in the city of Lyon, is a pre-Christmas celebration dating back to 1852. In 1852, a statue of the Virgin Mary was scheduled to be erected on Sept. 8, but the statue’s delivery was delayed by flooding. The event was postponed to Dec. 8, the date of the Feast of the Immaculate Conception. Due to inclement weather, the official ceremonies again had to be postponed. But as night fell, the weather cleared, and citizens of Lyon placed lit candles on their windowsills and balconies in a show of unity. Since then, Dec. 8 has become a day known for illumination in Lyon. The tradition escalated in the 1960s, when shops began window-lighting competitions, making the lights in Lyon more elaborate and widespread. The illumination of the city has spread in the years since, and every year around Dec. 8, light displays spotlight city squares, streets, bridges and even rivers. Much of the light at the festival comes in the form of projections on building facades, created by visual artists, that transform Lyon into a dreamlike world of glittering color. 

3. Lantern Festival, China

China’s Lantern Festival, held on the 15th day of the first lunar month, typically falling in February or March, marks the end of the Chinese New Year (Spring Festival). As the name suggests, glowing lanterns are the centerpiece of the festival. During the festival, lanterns in all shapes and sizes adorn China’s cities. The lanterns display artwork depicting traditional Chinese images like animals, fruits, flowers and people. The lighting of lanterns represents illuminating the future. The Lantern Festival dates back over 2,000 years, to the Western Han dynasty. Emperor Wen made the 15th a national holiday in celebration of the return to peace, and every household began to light candles and lanterns. A later ruler, Emperor Ming of the Eastern Han, was a devout Buddhist, and learned that monks would light candles for the Buddha on the 15th. Emperor Ming ordered that the palace and temples light candles on the 15th as well, and that citizens hang lanterns. The two events combined to form the Lantern Festival that is celebrated today. In addition to the lighting and admiration of the lanterns, visitors to China’s Lantern Festival can watch lion dances, eat “tangyuan” traditional dumplings, and try to solve riddles affixed to lanterns in order to win a prize. 

4. St. Martin’s Day, Netherlands

St. Martin’s Day is a children’s festival celebrated every Nov. 11 in honor of St. Martin, who was traditionally regarded as the patron saint of the poor and a friend to children. Nov. 11 is the day of St. Martin’s passing, but the atmosphere of the festival is joyful, not somber. The festival is similar to American Halloween, with children going door to door to collect treats such as candy, fruits or pancakes. Unlike Halloween, however, children do not dress up in costumes. Instead, they carry lanterns and parade around the neighborhood. Adults place similar lanterns outside their homes to show that they are offering treats to the revelers. Historically, children’s lanterns were made out of hollowed-out turnips and sugar beets hanging from a stick. These days, most children make and decorate their own paper lanterns at home or school, or lanterns can be purchased at grocery stores. Rather than saying “trick or treat,” children in the Netherlands sing songs to earn their treats. There are a few common songs for the festival, but children can sing any song they like, even ones of their own creation. 

5. Loi Krathong, Thailand

On the evening of the 12th lunar month, which usually falls toward the beginning of November, the whole country celebrates Loi Krathong, Thailand's Festival of Lights. Loi Krathong translates to “floating basket,” and it is a celebration of renewal, leaving behind the old and welcoming in the new. Thousands of lotus-shaped boats made from banana leaves called “krathong” are lit with candles and set afloat in waterways. In the north of Thailand, the krathong are joined by lanterns released into the sky for another light festival, Yi Peng, which often coincides with Loi Krathong. Most Loi Krathong celebrations are concentrated around waterways, since they are necessary to float the krathong. According to legend, Loi Krathong originated with Nang Nopphamat, a beautiful lady of the court in an ancient city. Wanting to catch the attention of the king, Nopphamat constructed a boat out of lotus leaves, placed a candle inside, and floated it down the river, creating the krathong. Today, the festival includes beauty contests in honor of Nopphamat, as well as parades, fireworks and, of course, the floating of the krathong. 

6. Bonfire Night, England

This celebration, also known as Guy Fawkes Day, takes place each year on Nov. 5. Bonfire Night marks the anniversary of the discovery of the Gunpowder Plot of 1605, a plan by Catholic conspirators to blow up the British Houses of Parliament. Guy Fawkes was one of the conspirators. He was captured and taken into custody the night before the attack and eventually tried, convicted and executed. The other conspirators met the same fate, or were killed resisting arrest. Today, Guy Fawkes Day is celebrated with fireworks, food, parades and bonfires, hence why the celebration is also called Bonfire Night. Effigies of Guy Fawkes, made from old clothes stuffed with paper and straw and commonly called “The Guy,” are thrown on the bonfires. The bonfires are also used to heat soup and cook potatoes to feed the crowds that gather to watch the brilliant fireworks displays. 

7. Vivid Sydney, Australia

Vivid Sydney is billed as a festival of light, music and ideas. Each year, more than 2 million visitors flock to Sydney to watch live music performances, attend creative workshops, talks and conferences, and see some of the city’s historic sites go up in lights. The festival lasts for 23 days, and the Sydney Opera House, Customs House and Taronga Zoo, among others, are all illuminated nightly at 6 p.m. Over the course of the festival, Sydney becomes a work of art, displaying light sculptures, large-scale projections and light installations. To best take in the massive array of lights, visitors to Vivid Sydney can follow the Vivid Light Walk, a route that stretches from The Rocks, a historic neighborhood by the Sydney Harbour Bridge, to the Sydney Opera House, winding through a number of attractions on the way. Several of the light installations are typically interactive, adding another dimension to the fun.

Rachel Lynch

Rachel is a student at Sarah Lawrence College in Bronxville, NY currently taking a semester off. She plans to study Writing and Child Development. Rachel loves to travel and is inspired by the places she’s been and everywhere she wants to go. She hopes to educate people on social justice issues and the history and culture of travel destinations through her writing.

IRAN: A Look Inside

Impressions and moments captured from behind Iran's closed curtain, as Brook Mitchell traversed the Islamic Republic during the country's "Ten Days of Dawn" celebrations and rallies, to mark the anniversary of the 1979 revolution. 

Each year on February 1st — the date Iran’s former supreme leader Ayatollah Khomeini returned to the country in 1979, after 15 years of exile — the Islamic Republic begins its annual “Ten Days of Dawn” celebrations. The tenth day marks the date that Shah Mohammad Reza Pahlavi’s regime officially collapsed, and events are held throughout the country to commemorate the anniversary of the 1979 revolution.

The celebrations offer the state-controlled media the opportunity to portray a people united behind the country’s leadership, with appeals to a sense of nostalgia, national pride and Islamic unity.  Just how much of this rhetoric really hits home with the people of Iran is hard to know.

Most travelers returning from Iran will tell you about the legendary hospitality and natural curiosity of locals toward outsiders.

This was certainly my experience. Traveling solo, spending time in both the major cities and some of the smaller, more remote and down-trodden settlements, I was always made to feel welcome. I also never questioned my safety, except for some white-knuckle taxi rides through Tehran.

My goal was simply to see and shoot as much as I could while I had the chance. I experienced few issues taking pictures, and especially outside the major cities people were surprisingly open to being photographed. 

Below is Khaju Bridge in Isfahan at sunset. The bridge and its banks are a popular meeting place for young people and local families.  

Despite the welcome, traveling at this time of year it was abundantly clear that some older attitudes die hard. Although much of the hype surrounding the anniversary of the 1979 revolution appeared to be artificially whipped up by the authorities, the sight of young children propped up on their parent’s shoulders, holding placards that called for the death of the Islamic State’s perceived enemies, was hard to ignore.

In the city of Yazd I clambered up some dodgy scaffolding to take the picture below, which was one of the more surreal experiences of my trip. Even as the revolution celebrations reached fever pitch, most people simply waved and smiled, despite the hostile sentiment.

The former US embassy in the capital city of Tehran remains in much the same state as shown in the movie Argo. Now something of a museum, complete with wax figures representing former embassy staff, it is only technically open to visitors a few days each year. Anti-American murals such as those below have long been part of the urban landscape in Iran.

From these grisly monuments and stark murals around the former US embassy, to the huge national protests, rallies, and celebrations held throughout the first ten days of February, there were constant reminders that reconciliation with the West still has some way to go.

Above: Khaju Bridge in Isfahan 

However, not long after my visit a number of major steps towards this seemingly improbable reconciliation took place. Today, with the prospect of economic sanctions being fully lifted, the authorities are promoting the lofty goal of making tourism one of the country’s largest exports.  

Below is an image of a fellow tourist who spent the better part of an hour posing for pictures for her friends at the beautiful Nasīr al-Mulk Mosque in Shiraz. The building is famous for the early morning light cast through its ornate stained glass windows.

Lifting the sanctions will hopefully remove two of the more significant difficulties faced by travelers to the country. At the time of my visit, Iran was almost completely cut off from the international banking system, leaving independent travelers with little or no access to funds, even in an emergency. This meant carrying all the cash I needed for my entire trip.

Above: Nasīr al-Mulk Mosque 

Added to this was the famously difficult visa situation. I arrived into Tehran at 3.00am armed only with a letter of invitation, which had been paid for in advance via a numbered Swiss bank account. After a cursory check over my documents, a friendly though wary customs officer disappeared into a back room to discuss my situation with a superior.  

After what seemed like an hour he returned, smiled, and welcomed me to the country with a crunching stamp across my newly minted visa. After all the tension, I half went to high five the officer — the pressure was off.

Yet these relatively minor inconveniences pale into insignificance compared to the challenges the Iranian people have had to endure under the crippling economic sanctions brought on by the bluster of their uncompromising, theocratic leaders. Hyper inflation had brought their country’s economy to a grinding halt. 

Below is a man bearing a placard with images of the supreme leader of Iran, Ali Khamenei, and the ‘the eternal religious and political leader of Iran,’ Ruhollah Khomeini.

The struggling economy, coupled with instability and insecurity, have pushed many to seek a better life outside of Iran, seeking refuge in Europe, the US, and beyond. For a brief period Iranian asylum seekers had also been arriving in large numbers via perilous boat journeys to my home country, arriving on Australia’s north coast from ports in Indonesia. Boat arrivals in Australia are presently not allowed to stay in the country and are shipped off to the small islands of Naru and Manus for deportation or relocation to third countries, most recently Cambodia.

For all the genuine pride in their country people showed me, there were just as many stories from people hoping to leave, by any means possible.

From a taxi driver who showed myself and some other travelers photos of his lacerated back after he was given lashes for drinking home made beer, to an older man who brought himself to tears talking of his beloved brother, shot by the police for translating books into English a decade earlier, it was clear that many living in Iran have extremely good reasons to search for a better life elsewhere.

Below is a young girl and her mother leaning over the graves of some of those who lost their lives fighting during the 1979 revolution.

Yet from a traveler’s perspective the country is incredible.

Everything is cheap and the standard of hotels and food is generally pretty good. Mercifully, moving forests of selfie sticks are nowhere to be found. Well-known spots were busy at times, but never so much as to feel over crowded. Time will tell how long this will continue to be the case.

Below is Naqsh-e Rustam, an ancient necropolis with an impressive group of ancient rock reliefs cut and carved into the cliff. The oldest relief dates back to around 1,000 BC.

Below are two stone bulls flanking the north side of the Throne Hall at the UNESCO world Heritage site of Persepolis. Literally translating to “city of Persians,” the city Persepolis was the ceremonial capital of the Achaemenid Empire, from around 550–330 BC.

Near Yazd are the ancient Zoroastrian ‘Towers of Silence.’ The Zoroastrians ‘purified’ their dead by exposing the bodies to the elements and to birds of prey, on top of these flat-topped towers, called dakhmas.

While in the city of Isfahan, I visited the beautiful Sheikh Lotfollah Mosque. Along with the Naghsh-e Jahan Square on which it borders, the mosque is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Early mornings see brilliant rays of light illuminate the intricate tile work of the building.

Also in Isfahan is Vank Cathederal, established by Armenian deportees settled by Shah Abbas I after the Ottoman War of 1603–1605. Today, this building remains one of the few Christian places of worship in Iran, and has many beautiful, fading murals within its interior.

One of the most interesting areas I explored during my visit was the southern region of the country, particularly the small islands and towns along the Persian Gulf coast. Thanks to the region’s colonial history as both a slave trading port and a stop on ancient trading routes, the area is home to the most ethnically diverse people in the country. 

One morning I shared a simple breakfast of fruit and tea with the woman below, and afterwards she was happy for me to take her picture.

The capital city of this region is called Bandar Abbas, and is a major port for smuggled goods coming from Dubai and Oman. It is home to the Bandari ethnic group, which literally translates as ‘people of the port’.

The locals here dress colourfully and still practice many customs that differ somewhat from the rest of the country. For me, it was the potential for some colour and a break from the dark chador worn throughout much of Iran, that made it so appealing to visit.

Early one evening in Bandar Abbas, I paused alongside a large crowd gathered to watch a sideshow, a common sight in the region. 

Below is a group of young men working to fix an Iranian built Paykan Taxi. When I returned to the city a week later, the men were still working on the cab, seemingly no closer to getting it moving.

Taking a short drive from the city of Bandar Abbas I arrived at the small town of Minab, seen below, where the people from around this vast area gather each week to sell their wares at the famous ‘Panjshambe Bazar’.

The striking coloured masks worn by the women of this region are said to have originated at a time when the Portuguese colonists would take the prettiest girls as slaves, and the masks would help to shield young girls from unwanted attention. I learned that each town in the region has its own signature variation of mask, varying in colour and construction.

The Panjshambe Bazar was a fascinating glimpse into the lives of the different cultures and people who call this area home. While there were large sections of the town dedicated to selling ubiquitous imported goods, there was still much to see that wouldn’t have changed much since Marco Polo made a visit — from the bustling livestock market, to the vendors selling colourful fabrics and homegrown produce.

For a fully grown, healthy goat, the prices seemed to hover around the 40 USD mark, a large sum of money for Iranians struggling in an economy crippled by sanctions and high inflation.

Below is a masked woman smoking tobacco from a waterpipe, or nargeela in Persian. This practice is banned for women throughout Iran in public places, but it remains popular amongst vendors at the market in Minab, who can often be found discreetly puffing away.

From tiny Minab I worked my way around to explore two rocky and arid islands just off the coast in the Persian Gulf, called Qeshm and Hormuz. On Hormuz, due to the severe lack of fresh water, Iranian engineers have constructed a water pipeline from the mainland.

Both islands are home to some of the oldest settlements in the Middle East, with a number of historic mosques and shrines, and I explored the crumbling ruins of ancient Portuguese castles and forts.

In 1507 the Portuguese conqueror Afonso de Albuquerque attacked the island of Hormuz, and it became a part of the Portuguese Empire. For over a hundred years, the Portuguese occupied the island, also capturing other islands and ports nearby, including the island of Qeshm. Their rule came to an end in 1622 when the Safavid king, Abbas I, conquered the Portuguese territories, forcing them to leave the Persian Gulf. Below you see remains of a chapel at the Portuguese fort on the island of Hormuz.

During 2009 Iran and Portugal prepared joint plans to restore historical sites in this region, however, little work seems to have taken place since then. These two young girls were passing through the ruins of the ancient Portuguese castle in the village of Laft, on Qeshm island.

Qeshm island is also home to large reserves of natural gas and a massive military presence. In early 2012, an underground military facility was established, designed to house Iran’s Ghadir-Nahang class submarines. The week after my visit a mock US warship was sunk just off the coast here by missiles fired from the main base in the east of the island.

Military service is mandatory for Iranian men. Except for special exemption cases, men not completing their service are unable to apply for a driving license, passport, or leave the country without permission.

Today the communities living on the islands of Hormuz and Qeshm are small, and in addition to natural gas exploration and production, fishing is one of the primary occupations for inhabitants of these islands.

Above you see a partially constructed Iranian lenge on Qeshm island, which is a traditional style of fishing vessel made of wood.

Above: (Left) A colourfully adorned house on Hormuz with a poster of Iran’s past and present. (Right) Women on Qeshm Island 

My hope is that the images shared in this story show a bit of both sides of Iran, as it is certainly a place that defies preconceptions.

Today, despite its beauty, rich history, and welcoming people, there is still a long way to go before it becomes a country where all of its people can feel safe, secure, and able to provide a better life for their children

Above: Morning light shines across the spectacular Nasīr al-Mulk Mosque in the city of Shiraz. The exterior of the building was completed in 1888. 

 

ORIGINALLY PUBLISHED ON MAPTIA  

 

BROOK MITCHELL

@brookmitchell

Brook Mitchell is a photographer and writer based in Sydney, Australia. His work ranges from local and national press for Getty Images and The Sydney Morning Herald, to longer form editorial articles and photo essays from around the globe.