Paradise for Tourists is Hell for Canary Islands Residents

Canary Islands residents are protesting against mass tourism, which they say is making the islands uninhabitable. 

A crowded beach in Las Palmas. Trygve Bølstad. CC BY-NC-SA

The Canary Islands have long been a hotspot for tourism. Vacationers flock to the archipelago in imposing numbers, drawn by the islands’ mild climate, rich cultural history and stunning vistas. In 2023, approximately 14 million international tourists visited the Canary Islands, representing an increase of roughly 13 percent compared to the previous year, and tourism accounts for approximately 35 percent of the islands’ GDP. Unfortunately, not all residents are experiencing the benefits of this influx. In fact, many locals have begun to complain that the massive waves of tourism are actively contributing to a decline in their quality of life.

While the Canary Islands host large numbers of tourists every year, approximately 15 million, they are home to only 2.2 million native residents. Of those 2.2 million, 33.8 percent are at risk of poverty according to a living conditions survey conducted by the Instituto Nacional de Estadística of Spain in 2023. The same survey designated the Canary Islands as one of the autonomous communities in Spain with the highest percentage of people making ends meet with “a lot of difficulty.”

Canary Islands. PxHere. CC0 1.0

The tourism industry only exasperates the economic challenges faced by residents. The islands’ resources are simply not equipped to sustain the large numbers of tourists, who put pressure on health services, waste management, water supplies and biodiversity. According to reports, tourists use up to six times more water than residents who, as a result of a drought brought on by climate change and rising temperatures, have been subjected to restrictions on water usage. Meanwhile, tourist resorts and golf courses have not been made to comply with the same restrictions. 

Biologist Anne Striewe commented on the toll tourism takes on the environment. “There are hundreds of boats and jet skis in our waters every day pumping petrol into the water,” she said, “then there are the boat parties which blast music all day long…this is picked up by whales and other creatures and really confuses and frightens them … Meanwhile, there have been multiple cases of animals being injured or killed by boat propellers, there are often vessels in protected waters but no one is cracking down on the activity.” According to the environmental group Salvar Tenerife (Save Tenerife, the largest of the Canaries), millions of liters of sewage water are being dumped into the sea off Tenerife and other islands every single day, with amounts rising in accordance with the number of visitors.

Sticker against overtourism, 2024. Rasande Tyskar. CC BY-NC 2.0.

Female residents have reported feeling unsafe in the presence of tourists who harass and follow them in public. Trailers park illegally and leave trash in their wake. The number of hotels being built and the amount of housing being converted to short-term rentals to accommodate these tourists has caused a rise in the cost of living. As a result, some locals have been forced to begin sleeping in their cars and in caves. "It is absurd to have a system where so much money is in the hands of a very few extremely powerful groups, and is then funneled away from the Canary Islands," says Sharon Backhouse, who owns GeoTenerife along with her Canarian husband, a program that runs science field trips and training camps in the Canary Islands and conducts research into sustainable tourism.

Thousands of locals took to the streets in April to protest over tourism and defend their right to live in their native land. “We are not against tourism,” Rosario Correo, one of the protesters, clarified to the media, “We’re asking that they change this model that allows for unlimited growth of tourism.” 

Protesters are calling for a halt to the construction of a hotel and a beach resort on one of the few remaining unoccupied beaches, a moratorium on all tourism development projects, stricter regulation on property sales to foreigners and a more sustainable model of tourism that will not put the environment or the livelihoods of locals at risk. “I feel like a foreigner here, I don't feel comfortable anymore, it's like everything is made for British and German tourists who just want to drink cheap beer, lay in the sun and eat burgers and chips,” another protester, Vicky Colomer, said. “We need higher quality tourists who actually want to experience our culture and food and respect our nature.”

The protests have motivated the government to introduce measures to limit tourism. The island of Tenerife announced a tourist tax of an undisclosed amount that will go into effect on January 1, 2025 for tourists seeking to visit natural beauty spots. A law that would place harsher regulations on short-term rentals is also expected to pass in 2025.


Rebecca Pitcairn

Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference.

Unexpected Paradise: 6 Macaronesian Islands That You May Not Have Heard Of

Off the coast of Europe and Africa, the Macronesian islands offer unspoiled landscapes, quaint towns, and stunning coastlines.

The island of La Gomera is located in the Canary Islands, one of the island chains that make up Macaronesia. Jörg Bergmann. CC BY-NC-ND 2.0.

Macaronesia is a group of archipelagos in the North Atlantic Ocean. off the coast of Europe and Africa. It consists of the islands of the Azores and Madeira, (part of Portugal) the Canary Islands (part of Spain) and Cabo Verde  (an independent group of islands formerly controlled by Portugal). Some of these islands are only a short flight away from many major cities in Western Europe and becoming more popular, leading to more development on some of them, but unspoiled wilderness remains prevalent. 

1. São Miguel, Azores

The Lagoa das Sete Cidades features colorful lakes in the remnants of volcano calderas on São Miguel. energeticspell. CC BY-NC 2.0.

The largest island in the Azores, São Miguel features numerous beautiful natural sights for hikers and/or tourists. Due to minerals in the water, the lakes on the island come in various tints of green and blue. At a more temperate climate than many of the other Macaronesian islands, São Miguel receives more rain, resulting in many waterfalls on the island. Some companies lead rappelling excursions at the waterfalls. The seas around São Miguel are also prime for whale watching.

2. Flores, Azores

Lush, green cliffs characterize the island of Flores in the Azores archipelago. Paulo Corceiro. CC BY-ND 2.0.

One of the more remote islands in the Azores archipelago, Flores literally translates to “flowers” in English. Its stunning lush mountains are well-suited for hiking and canyoneering, with trails leading to some unique geological formations. Some places on the island to visit include the village of Fajã Grande, which is tucked in between cliffs and the Atlantic Ocean, and the 7 lagoons, the remnants of ancient volcanoes. 

3. Madeira

The cliffs of Madeira. Kacper Gunia. CC BY-NC 2.0.

After a thrilling landing at one of the most challenging airports for pilots in the world, visitors step into a green oasis with dramatic mountains and steep drop-offs. In the past, Madeira was a maritime center with Christopher Columbus and James Cook making stops there on their voyages. Later, rich landowners built ornate summer estates on the island, such as the Monte Palace Madeira, which is a present-day vast botanical garden. Hiking trails criss-cross the island, with many built on the remnants of levandas, irrigation canals used to feed water to drier areas of the island. A strenuous hike to Pico Ruivo, the highest point on the island, rewards intrepid hikers with vast views.

4. La Palma, Canary Islands

The volcanic landscape of the island of La Palma. weberpal. CC BY-NC-SA 2.0. 

The island of La Palma in the Canary Islands is fully operational again after the Cumbre Vieja volcano stopped erupting in December 2021. While it is still advisable to exercise caution around the eruption area, the rest of the island is free to be explored. Past volcanic eruptions have created unique rock formations underwater, making diving a popular activity off the coast of the island. Watersports such as kayaking and canoeing are also popular, especially along the sheltered coast of Fuencaliente. There is also an extensive network of hiking paths on the island, leading to a variety of unique landscapes.

5. Fuerteventura

Popular beaches and desert landscapes combine on the island of Fuerteventura. xavipat. CC BY-NC-ND 2.0.

The more southern islands of Macaronesia have a more arid climate, leading to more desert-like landscapes. Less than 100 kilometers from the coast of Africa, Fuerteventura consists of many popular beaches but also has quaint towns and rolling hills. As the first of the Canary Islands to be settled by Europeans, its first capital city of Betancuria was founded in 1404 and remains to this day and is a great place to learn about the island’s pre-Hispanic history. The island is also famous for its cuisine featuring majorero cheese and papas arugás with mojo (wrinkly potatoes with a local sauce).

6. Sal, Cabo Verde

The barren landscape of Sal is much more than what it seems. Phil Thirkell. CC BY-NC 2.0.

Another desert-like island, Sal is located in the northeast of the Cabo Verde archipelago and used to be the least populous island of the country until recent developments that have caused rapid growth. Like Fuerteventura, Sal has many beaches which are known as prime kiteboarding areas. Away from the beaches and resort areas lies what seems like a barren landscape, but tours on jeep and horseback can bring visitors to the remote interior to secluded areas. The island also has a legacy of salt mining, and it is possible to visit the Pedra de Lume area, which preserves the remnants of salt extraction operations.



Bryan Fok

Bryan is currently a History and Global Affairs major at the University of Notre Dame. He aims to apply the notion of Integral Human Development as a framework for analyzing global issues. He enjoys hiking and visiting national parks.