Skip the tourist traps in this fantastic Spanish city with advice from a traveler who has food, wine, sunset, bars, and dancing recommendations in the city of Madrid.
Read MoreParadise for Tourists is Hell for Canary Islands Residents
Canary Islands residents are protesting against mass tourism, which they say is making the islands uninhabitable.
A crowded beach in Las Palmas. Trygve Bølstad. CC BY-NC-SA
The Canary Islands have long been a hotspot for tourism. Vacationers flock to the archipelago in imposing numbers, drawn by the islands’ mild climate, rich cultural history and stunning vistas. In 2023, approximately 14 million international tourists visited the Canary Islands, representing an increase of roughly 13 percent compared to the previous year, and tourism accounts for approximately 35 percent of the islands’ GDP. Unfortunately, not all residents are experiencing the benefits of this influx. In fact, many locals have begun to complain that the massive waves of tourism are actively contributing to a decline in their quality of life.
While the Canary Islands host large numbers of tourists every year, approximately 15 million, they are home to only 2.2 million native residents. Of those 2.2 million, 33.8 percent are at risk of poverty according to a living conditions survey conducted by the Instituto Nacional de Estadística of Spain in 2023. The same survey designated the Canary Islands as one of the autonomous communities in Spain with the highest percentage of people making ends meet with “a lot of difficulty.”
Canary Islands. PxHere. CC0 1.0
The tourism industry only exasperates the economic challenges faced by residents. The islands’ resources are simply not equipped to sustain the large numbers of tourists, who put pressure on health services, waste management, water supplies and biodiversity. According to reports, tourists use up to six times more water than residents who, as a result of a drought brought on by climate change and rising temperatures, have been subjected to restrictions on water usage. Meanwhile, tourist resorts and golf courses have not been made to comply with the same restrictions.
Biologist Anne Striewe commented on the toll tourism takes on the environment. “There are hundreds of boats and jet skis in our waters every day pumping petrol into the water,” she said, “then there are the boat parties which blast music all day long…this is picked up by whales and other creatures and really confuses and frightens them … Meanwhile, there have been multiple cases of animals being injured or killed by boat propellers, there are often vessels in protected waters but no one is cracking down on the activity.” According to the environmental group Salvar Tenerife (Save Tenerife, the largest of the Canaries), millions of liters of sewage water are being dumped into the sea off Tenerife and other islands every single day, with amounts rising in accordance with the number of visitors.
Sticker against overtourism, 2024. Rasande Tyskar. CC BY-NC 2.0.
Female residents have reported feeling unsafe in the presence of tourists who harass and follow them in public. Trailers park illegally and leave trash in their wake. The number of hotels being built and the amount of housing being converted to short-term rentals to accommodate these tourists has caused a rise in the cost of living. As a result, some locals have been forced to begin sleeping in their cars and in caves. "It is absurd to have a system where so much money is in the hands of a very few extremely powerful groups, and is then funneled away from the Canary Islands," says Sharon Backhouse, who owns GeoTenerife along with her Canarian husband, a program that runs science field trips and training camps in the Canary Islands and conducts research into sustainable tourism.
Thousands of locals took to the streets in April to protest over tourism and defend their right to live in their native land. “We are not against tourism,” Rosario Correo, one of the protesters, clarified to the media, “We’re asking that they change this model that allows for unlimited growth of tourism.”
Protesters are calling for a halt to the construction of a hotel and a beach resort on one of the few remaining unoccupied beaches, a moratorium on all tourism development projects, stricter regulation on property sales to foreigners and a more sustainable model of tourism that will not put the environment or the livelihoods of locals at risk. “I feel like a foreigner here, I don't feel comfortable anymore, it's like everything is made for British and German tourists who just want to drink cheap beer, lay in the sun and eat burgers and chips,” another protester, Vicky Colomer, said. “We need higher quality tourists who actually want to experience our culture and food and respect our nature.”
The protests have motivated the government to introduce measures to limit tourism. The island of Tenerife announced a tourist tax of an undisclosed amount that will go into effect on January 1, 2025 for tourists seeking to visit natural beauty spots. A law that would place harsher regulations on short-term rentals is also expected to pass in 2025.
Rebecca Pitcairn
Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference.
Mallorca and Beyond: Spain’s Balearic Islands
Get to know the lesser-known islands of Menorca, Cabrera and Formentera, alongside the classic Balearics, Mallorca and Ibiza.
Cala Ratjada. originalpickaxe. CC BY 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
The Balearic Islands are destinations well-known for their beaches and energetic nightlife. Beyond the impressive coastlines and vibrant parties, visitors will find charming villages, ancient ruins and traditional cuisines that showcase the islands' heritage. From Menorca to Formentera, each island boasts a rich culture and history that makes it distinct and uniquely captivating.
Mallorca
The town of Banyalbufar, Serra de Tramuntana mountains. Vicenç Salvador Torres Guerola. CC BY-SA 4.0.
Mallorca, the largest of Spain's Balearic Islands, is celebrated for its diversity of landscapes, culture and history. The island has historically been a popular vacation spot among travelers for its secluded beaches and coves with turquoise waters, such as those in Cala d'Or and Playa de Muro. However, the island is also known for its dramatic cliffs and mountainous terrain along the Serra de Tramuntana mountain range, just a thirty-minute drive from the island’s capital, Palma. This region of Mallorca is home to intimate villages such as Valldemossa and Deia. Here, the towns are tranquil, filled with olive groves and surviving monastic charterhouses from as early as the 13th century, reminiscent of the island’s historic past and lasting Roman Catholic influence.
Mallorca’s gastronomy is worth the trip alone, with dishes such as el arros brut, a meat and vegetable rice dish, and el frito mallorquin, an offal and vegetable stew. Another classic dish is the Frit mallorqui, which consists of potatoes tossed in a thickened sauce of onions, garlic, tomatoes and capers. The island is also rich in medieval architecture, being home to the gothic-style Bellver Castle, built in the 14th century for King James II of Majorca, and the renowned Cathedral of Santa Maria, once a mosque converted into a Christian church in 1229.
Menorca
The city of Mahon, Menorca. pxhere. CC0, via Wikimedia Commons
In contrast to Mallorca’s bustling island pace, Menorca is renowned for its peaceful ambiance, enticing beaches and historical heritage. The island's coastline is dotted with secluded coves and crystal blue waters, with stunning beaches like Cala Macarella and Cala Mitjana. Menorca is much smaller than Mallorca, and most of its beaches are hidden 'calas,' or sandy coves between rocky cliffs. The island itself is calmer, with more intimate and relaxed “hippie” nightlife opportunities such as a cave disco in the Cova d’en Xoroi, Menorca’s most famous cave.
Menorca’s capital, Mahon, features the second-deepest natural harbor in the world alongside charming streets lined with Georgian architecture, reflecting its British colonial past. The island is also well known for its famous Mahon cheese, matured exclusively in Menorca. The local cuisine is characterized by fresh seafood with traditional dishes such as lobster stew, Menorcan sausages and sweet and savory pastries. Additionally, Menorca is a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve, with a diverse landscape of rolling hills, wetlands and forests, ideal for hiking. This island is quieter than its Balearic counterparts yet is just as abundant in nature, cuisine and architecture.
Cabrera
Isla de Cabrera National Park, Mallorca. Tommie Hansen from Stockholm, Sweden, CC BY 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Cabrera, a serene archipelago of nineteen islets off Mallorca's southern coast, stands out for its untouched natural beauty and ecological diversity. The island’s name, the Spanish word for goat, from a time when the island’s only inhabitants were goats transplanted there by the Romans as an emergency food source. Interestingly, today there are less than 30 permanent residents on the island, making it the largest undeveloped area in the Balearics. Once a hideout for pirates and later a prison for captured soldiers, today Cabrera, or Cabrera National Park, is a protected area that ensures a thriving habitat for numerous bird species and marine life.
The island's transparent waters make it a prime spot for snorkeling and diving, revealing undisturbed marine ecosystems and caves. Visitors can also explore historical landmarks like the 14th-century Cabrera Castle, which offers sweeping sea views. Unlike its neighboring islands, Cabrera offers a tranquil retreat where nature remains untouched.
Formentera
Los Pujols, in Formentera. Emanuela Meme Giudic…. CC BY 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Formentera, while the smallest of the Balearic Islands, stands out for its calm beaches and clear waters, particularly at Playa de Ses Illetes and Playa de Migjorn. The island’s flat landscape contrasts with Mallorca’s rugged Serra de Tramuntana and Cabrera’s protected wilderness, offering easy exploration by bike or foot. Historical sites like the Cap de Barbaria lighthouse provide a glimpse into Formentera’s past, less grandiose than Mallorca’s Bellver Castle but no less significant. The island’s cuisine is full of dishes such as seafood paella, freshly grilled fish, leg of lamb, figs and local goat and sheep cheese.
Formentera’s charm lies in its blend of serene nature and rich history, providing a unique travel experience distinct from its larger neighbors. Like Menorca, Formentera is a less common destination than its closest counterpart, Ibiza, thus preserving the island’s natural beauty and relaxed pace. The local markets, often buzzing with artisans, offer a taste of the island’s vibrant craft traditions. Additionally, the annual jazz festival brings a rhythm to the island that echoes against the backdrop of the Mediterranean, highlighting its lively yet laid-back cultural scene.
Ibiza
Sea view, Ibiza Spain. athinaf, CC BY 2.0.
Ibiza, renowned for its vibrant nightlife, is also a bastion of cultural and historical significance. The island’s party scene, with its origins in the countercultural movements of the 1970s, has evolved into a global hub for electronic music, hosting legendary clubs like Pacha and Amnesia. These venues, alongside the annual music festivals, continue to draw international crowds and top-tier DJs, cementing Ibiza’s status as a dance music mecca.
Beyond the beats, Ibiza’s cultural tapestry is rich in history. The Phoenician settlement of Sa Caleta and the necropolis at Puig des Molins are testaments to the island’s ancient maritime trade and significant role in the Mediterranean economy in Antiquity. Dalt Vila, Ibiza Town’s historic center, is a UNESCO World Heritage site that showcases over 2,500 years of history through its Renaissance military architecture and medieval streets. The island’s cuisine offers traditional dishes like bullit de peix, a fish stew, and local desserts such as greixonera.
Ibiza’s beaches, from the popular Playa d’en Bossa to the tranquil Cala Comte, are celebrated for their white sands and clear waters, providing a natural counterpoint to the island’s bustling nightlife. Each beach offers a unique experience, whether it’s the serene Cala Salada or the lively atmosphere of Ses Salines.
Julz Vargas
Julz is a student at Wellesley College studying Anthropology and Spanish. She grew up in Los Angeles, CA, and has studied all around the world in places such as Costa Rica, Greece, Iceland, and Spain. She is passionate about employing writing as a tool to explore human connection and diversity. Julz aspires to foster cross-cultural connections through community-based research, amplifying inclusive and diverse media about global cultures, foods, and people, to encourage individuals to engage more wholly with the world.
Drought, Agriculture and the Water Crisis in Spain
In Spain, where drought and agricultural contaminants are affecting drinking water, the precious resource has become a rarity.
The drought’s effects on water in Spain. Oscar F. Hevia. CC BY-NC-ND 2.0.
After one of the driest winters of the past 20 years, Spain is experiencing record-low levels of water, which has severely impacted the country’s people. Spain collects the majority of its water through reservoirs and basins, which capture groundwater and rain. At this time of year, these reservoirs are typically at 70 percent. However, due to the drought Spain is currently experiencing, such reservoirs and basins are only at about 40 percent capacity—a palpable cause for concern for all Spanish citizens.
Due to the severe lack of water, Spain has placed regulations on what the limited supply should be used for. Pools remain unfilled as the weather gets hotter, city fountains are shut off, and villagers in towns closer to the interior of the country find it hard to get a sustainable supply of drinkable water. Villagers from interior areas of Spain, like Lastras de Cuéllar, depend heavily on bottled water sold in their town square. But the purchasing of bottled water is not a sustainable solution to the current water crisis. Older members of the community struggle to carry enough back home, and although many places discount their prices, bottled water is not cost effective. As summer approaches, the people of Spain worry about how long their reserves will last them and hope for heavier rainfall in the spring months to come.
The drought is being credited to climate change, and the ever-rising temperatures felt across the globe are now creating drastic impacts on the ways people will have to start managing their resources. Calls for water-management reform have begun from many scientists in Spain, the main argument being that due to rising temperatures, old ways of managing and transporting drinking water may need to change. Interior towns of the country that heavily depend on rain water to sustain them may have to rethink their system all together.
Park fountain without water. Ell Brown. CC BY-NC-SA 2.0.
On top of the drought, agricultural contaminants have threatened what little water resources Spain has left. Spain is a global leader in pork production, a process that actively affects groundwater resources commonly collected in the basins used to hold drinking water. Pig manure is loaded with toxins that make drinking this groundwater very dangerous. Wired Magazine explains that “pig feed is high in a chemical called phytate, which swine excrete as phosphorus.” When farmers use pig manure to fertilize their land, “phosphorus can become concentrated in the soil and leach to groundwater.” This concentrated phosphorus in groundwater can make humans extremely sick, another reason why clean water has become so rare in Spain.
Besides phosphorus, pig manure also secretes nitrates, something also commonly found in fertilizers used in the agricultural production of crops. Therefore, on top of the dangerous toxins found in pig manure, the nitrates in fertilizer are also seeping into groundwater and impacting the purity of Spain’s limited drinking water. The Local, an online magazine dedicated to covering news in European countries, states that “22 percent of Spain’s overall surface area…is exposed to nitrate pollution,” a startling statistic, considering Spain’s clean water crisis.
The implications of the drought—combined with the continuation of agricultural contaminants that are consistently finding their way into Spain’s drinking water—are extremely severe. If Spain doesn’t experience a spring with heavy rainfall, this issue may turn into a crisis. Spain has been for many years a water-insecure region, but as the effects of climate change excellerate and agricultural production continues to pollute the land, the issue only becomes more dire. For now, Spaniards can only hope for rain to counter the drought, and for water-management reform to make their drinking water safer. With those hopes in mind, they wait to see what the impending summer heat will mean for their depleted clean water supply.
To Get Involved:
The Organization for Economic Co-operation and Development (OECD) is an organization designed to assist economic and trade progress on a global scale. Learn about the OECD’s assessment of how water resources in Spain are allocated and how the OECD recommends to improve such allocations as conditions in Spain change here.
Circle of Blue is a non-profit organization dedicated to discussing critical research and the challenges involved with global water insecurity. Uniting journalism and data literacy, Circle of Blue serves to educate readers on global issues linked to water and provide research on ways others can get involved to fight global water insecurity. Learn more on how to eliminate global water insecurity here.
Ava Mamary
Ava is an undergraduate student at the University of Illinois, double majoring in English and Communications. At school, she Web Writes about music for a student-run radio station. She is also an avid backpacker, which is where her passion for travel and the outdoors comes from. She is very passionate about social justice issues, specifically those involving women’s rights, and is excited to write content about social action across the globe.
Spain’s Graffiti Phenomenon
Spain is known for the street art that decorates major cities and towns all over the country, with multiple Spanish street artists reaching global acclaim. The street art phenomenon is especially significant not only for the identity it gives to Spain, but also for its relation to contemporary culture and expression.
Graffiti in Alicante, Spain. Photo by Ralph (Ravi) Kayden.
Mural in Madrid, Spain. Photo by Nancy O'Connor.
When walking the streets of Valencia, Spain, nowhere is the graffiti more prolific than Barrio Carmen, the historic district of Valencia. Tall buildings along winding stone alleys are adorned with color: depicting abstract images, portraits, and scenery reminiscent to that of the artists of the Escuela de Bellas Artes. Property owners often commission artists to decorate the entrance to their buildings, establishing a connection to the culture of artistic exhibition that exists within the city. Valencia is just one home to the countless networks of street artists across Spain: graffiti peppers the streets and surfaces of major cities, villages, and neighborhoods alike across the nation.
In Barcelona and Madrid, the real graffiti phenomenon exists not in the streets, but underground: along the sides of metro cars. Given the costs of cleaning and repairing painted cars, this form of graffiti is revered as the most risky, and the most thrilling. Barcelona has begun to heighten its police presence in the metros to prevent vandalism, but this measure has only served to make the artists more crafty. Rappelling through vents, jumping fences, and running from the police have become commonplace in the laundry list of a street artist’s activities.
Saville Street, Saville, Spain. Photo by Look Up Look Down Photography.
The two principles that unite the diverse network of graffiti artists throughout Spain are anonymity and adventure. In this way, street art becomes an equalizing force for expression. Of the thousands of graffiti artists throughout Spain, there exists no single class or personal affiliation. From this anonymity arises solidarity; artists sometimes work in teams or paint in recognizable styles, but rarely is the actual identity of an artist public.
Regarding adventure, José Sánchez, an anthropological researcher at Pompeu Fabra University, describes that from graffiti, artists find both a sense of belonging as well as adrenaline. There is, then, a dual impetus: to create some sort of permanence through visual expression, but also for the rush of the moment: the danger of painting in precarious situations, or of attempting to evade vandalism charges from the police. Sánchez offers the notion that the street art phenomenon arises as a microcosm for a contemporary society entrenched in immediate gratification, tactile pleasures, and hedonism, which Sánchez identifies mostly as the impact of youth culture. This explanation, however, seems to only cover part of the multifaceted nature of graffiti and its specific mode of public speech.
Mahón, Menorca, Spain. Photo by JR Harris.
One prolific street artist from the Gijon region of Northern Spain, who goes by the moniker “Señor X,” has become widely known as “Spain’s Banksy,” in reference to the mysterious British graffiti artist who has gained significant global acclaim in recent decades. Señor X’s work is focused on social commentary: the vast majority of his murals are anti-capitalist and anti-establishment. Señor X’s dynamic portfolio represents just part of the larger body of street art created in protest.
Furthermore, the debate over graffiti as street art versus graffiti as vandalism is just one feature over the larger question of legitimate protest. Art and visual expression have long been means of protest: Picasso’s Guernica, one of the most renowned pieces in the Spanish canon was painted in response to the bombing of the civilians of Guernica, Spain during the Spanish Civil War. The murals of artists such as Señor X represent many of the same sentiments and involve similar artistic meticulousness, but are illegal, rather than revered. Nonetheless, street art remains an integral part of identity and expression within Spain, and furthers discussions as to the nature of protest and youth culture globally.
HALLIE GRIFFITHS
Hallie is an undergraduate at the University of Virginia studying Foreign Affairs and Spanish. After graduation, she hopes to apply her passion for travel and social action toward a career in intelligence and policy analysis. Outside of the classroom, she can be found, quite literally, outside: backpacking, rock climbing, or skiing with her friends.
Islamic Architecture in Spain
While many can forget that Arab and North African Muslims controlled parts of Spain for almost 800 years, longstanding Spanish architecture is a testament to the Muslim reign. Arabesque patterns, Islamic motifs and sandy colors have been preserved in some of Andalusia’s most famous palaces and fortresses.
Great Mosque of Cordoba, Spain. Richard Mortel. CC BY 2.0.
Arab and North African Muslims conquered the Iberian Peninsula in the eighth century. Ruling for almost 800 years in Al-Andalus (currently Andalusia), Muslims inevitably left traces of their presence in the region. Everything from language and religion to architecture and art was adopted by Spain during the Muslim reign. Around 4,000 Spanish words which are still in use today originated from Arabic. The majority of these words are nouns related to food, animals, nature and science. For example, the Spanish word for “olive” is “aceituna” and is derived from the Arabic word “zaytünah.”
While aspects of the Arabic language can be found in Spanish, Islamic architecture is the true evidence of the Arab and North African Muslim reign in Spain. Certain sites in modern-day Andalusia make you feel like you’re in Morocco or Syria. Today, Islamic architecture is most prevalent in Cordoba, Seville and Granada—Spanish cities in Andalusia—with their palaces and holy sites.
Cordoba
Desert colored walls in the Great Mosque of Cordoba. Waqqas Akhtar. CC BY-NC-SA 2.0.
Cordoba was the capital of Al-Andalus when it was first conquered in 711 A.D. The Great Mosque of Cordoba is a testament to the Arabic and Islamic influence in the city. Elaborate building programs and agricultural projects were sponsored by Prince Abd al-Rahman I from Damascus, Syria. The prince imported plants from Damascus, some of which still stand in the yard of the Mosque of Cordoba today.
Previously operating as a mosque and church at different points in history, the captivating structure includes a hypostyle prayer hall, a beautiful courtyard with an extravagant fountain, a colorful orange grove, a walkway circling the courtyard and a minaret which is now a bell tower. Islamic calligraphy and verses from religious scriptures fill the sandy, red and white colored columns. Geometric shapes dominate the structure—in everything from design to entryways. One major Islamic motif that is evident in this structure is the horseshoe shaped “mihrab.” The mihrab identifies the wall that faces Mecca—Islam’s holiest city that features the home of God, the Kaa’ba—and indicates which direction to face while praying. The mihrab is decorated in gold and brown detailing. Above the mihrab sits a mesmerizing dome filled with pointed gold arches and radial patterns fill the ceiling.
The dome above the mihrab in the Great Mosque of Cordoba. mitopencourseware. CC BY-NC-SA 2.0.
Seville
The Royal Alcazar in Seville is one of the world’s oldest palaces that is still in use today. This palace has been awarded status as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The Alcazar was first built in the 11th century when the Arabs moved in and sought to create a secure, residential fortress. Since then, Alcazar has been home to the many monarchs who have taken control of Seville. The initially Islamic structure was renovated by its following rulers; however, the palace’s Islamic roots shine through as many of its Islamic components have been preserved.
One of the palace’s courtyards, the Patio del Yeso, was created in the 12th century when the region was still under Muslim control. The courtyard features a large pool in the middle—a common theme in Islamic architecture. Water is at the heart of Islamic architecture for both practical and spiritual reasons. Considering that the Arabs and North Africans came from dry climates and desert landscapes, it was important for them to have easy access to reliable sources of water. Furthermore, in Islam, water symbolizes life and purity. Water in gardens, specifically, symbolizes the sacred lake in paradise that is reserved for only the righteous.
Other recurring Islamic motifs that are found in the Alcazar include keyhole or horseshoe shaped arches, doors and windows; traditional Islamic plasterwork and latticework; Islamic writings; and a heavy presence of plants. The horseshoe arch is known as an “alfiz” and the Islamic-style window screens are known as “mashrabiya.” These, in addition to the icicle-like droppings from ceilings and domes, are common components of modern-day mosques and other traditional Islamic structures.
The gardens of the Alcazar were used not only for aesthetic purposes, but also for functional purposes. While the plants and trees were grown in the palace’s gardens for beauty, the plants were also used to feed members of the court. The gardens themselves were strategically structured to resemble what Muslims imagined paradise to look like based on the descriptions in the Quran.
Garden in the Royal Alcazar, Seville. Jocelyn Erskine-Kellie. CC BY-SA 2.0.
Granada
Alhambra Palace Fortress in Granada, Spain. Victor Wong. CC BY-NC-SA 2.0.
The Alhambra Palace in Granada is further evidence of the Islamic rule in Spain. The name Alhambra itself derives from the Arabic word “Al-Hamra” which means “red.” The palace was given this name for its reddish bricks and walls which can be seen from afar. Alhambra’s layout mimics that of many other palaces for Muslim princes. Three main floor plans dominate the site: the “mexuar” was open to all and the room where sultans received their subjects, the “diwan” is the throne room where receptions were held, and the “harem” is the prince's private quarters. Islamic inscriptions and verses from the Quran flood the walls, while the gold detailing accents the writings.
Mosaics and colored tiles in geometric and plant-like shapes, referred to as “alicatado,” are also in certain quarters. The mosaics are not only decorative but also contain strategically chosen tiles to cool the structure in the summertime. Plant motifs align with Islamic principles, as the depiction of human images is often frowned upon. The Fountain of the Lions in Alhambra is one of the most photographed features of the palace, with 12 lions spewing water in the middle of the courtyard. Other famous aspects of Alhambra which are covered in arabesque patterns and constructed to resemble the gardens in heaven, include the Generalife and El Partal, two of the quieter locations in the palace.
Keyhole shaped windows with arabesque patterns in Alhambra. Güldem Üstün. CC BY 2.0.
Fountain of the Lions in Alhambra. Alexandra Stevenson. CC BY-ND 2.0.
Geometric mosaics in Alhambra. Víctor. CC BY-NC-ND 2.0.
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Mia Khatib
Mia is a rising senior at Boston University majoring in journalism and minoring in international relations. As a Palestinian-American, Mia is passionate about amplifying the voices of marginalized communities and is interested in investigative and data-driven journalism. She hopes to start out as a breaking news reporter and one day earn a position as editor of a major publication..
Throwing Tomatoes: Spain’s Festival of La Tomatina
Sometimes organized chaos is just what a town needs to bring its residents together. Spain’s annual tomato-throwing festival of La Tomatina has certainly proven this true.
Festivalgoers covered in tomatoes. dahon. CC BY-ND 2.0.
Considered the world’s biggest food fight, Spain’s annual festival of La Tomatina draws countless residents and visitors to the streets. Held in the small town of Bunol near Valencia, Spain, the festival brings in over 20,000 people every year. The town, which is home to only 10,000 residents, doubles in size during La Tomatina.
The festival takes place on the last Wednesday of August, but has been canceled this year due to COVID-19 restrictions.
Over the past several years, the festival’s appeal to visitors has skyrocketed. What was once an informal celebration now requires tickets to limit the guests to the small space available; the town plaza comfortably fits 9,000 people but well over 20,000 take part.
The origin of the festival dates back to 1945, when it is told that a group of rambunctious boys started this cherished tradition. It is said that during a town festival, one of the boys fell down in the chaos of the parade. He then knocked over a vegetable cart, causing anger among the other observers. People began throwing the tomatoes at each other, and thus this tradition was born.
The festival tickets can only be purchased if you are 18 years or older, but there is still a place for young feisty participants. Another festival called Tomatina Infantil, or Tomatina Kids, is held for children between the ages of 4 and 14. It takes place on the last Saturday of August, a few days after the main celebration.
The festival itself is a brief event lasting only one to two hours. Shopkeepers prepare for the mess by using large plastic covers to protect their shops being painted red. Large trucks pull into the town center and volunteers toss tomatoes to participants eager to load for battle. The beginning of the festival is marked by a cannon shot at noon, and an hour or so later, a second cannon is shot to mark the end of the festival. Over 300,000 pounds of tomatoes are tossed around. Additionally, participants are given quite a few rules to prevent injury and severe pummeling. These rules include no bottles or hard objects, no tearing or tugging on your own or others’ clothing, requiring all tomatoes to be squashed before throwing, and participants needing to stop throwing tomatoes once the second cannon is shot.
Once the fight has concluded, helpers hose down the painted buildings while participants wash each other. Meanwhile, other participants take a dip in the Bunol River to wash off.
Although chaotic, La Tomatina is a testament to the power of happy accidents bonding a town and its many welcomed visitors.
Ella Nguyen
is an undergraduate student at Vassar College pursuing a degree in Hispanic Studies. She wants to assist in the field of immigration law and hopes to utilize Spanish in her future projects. In her free time she enjoys cooking, writing poetry, and learning about cosmetics.
An anti-homophobia protest in Russia. Marco Fieber. CC BY-NC-ND 2.0.
Rainbow Railroad Gives Queer Refugees Hope
For over a year, Ray Reynolds slept in a hearse. Working at a funeral home in Montego Bay, Jamaica, he spent his life hiding from homophobic mobs threatening to torture and kill him. “Even though I worked at the funeral home, people still called that place and threatened me. ‘Oh, batty bwoy (a derogatory slur) I know where you is. When I’m coming for you, I’m coming with a tanka (tanker truck with bombs) to burn you out.’” The best hiding place he could find was a hearse; they would never expect to find him there. But Ray knew that if he stayed in Jamaica much longer, he would soon find himself in a coffin six feet underground.
He contacted Rainbow Railroad, and soon, they provided him transport to Spain, where he currently lives. Spain offered a starkly different environment for a gay man like Ray. “I’m free to walk. I’m free to be who I am. I’m free to be what I am.” Along with this newfound freedom, Ray can now experience aspects of queer life strictly forbidden in Jamaica. “I see drag queens, gay people, trans people—everyone together—just having a drink at the bar. Nobody cares!”
Ray is one of more than 800 individuals from 38 different countries to receive assistance from Rainbow Railroad. Founded in 2006, the Toronto-based charity helps LGBTQ+ people escape violence and persecution in their home countries. After reviewing thousands of applications for assistance, Rainbow Railroad has built a worldwide network to lend aid to queer people in need and contribute to LGBTQ+ activist organizations abroad.
Much of its work has focused on Jamaica. In 2006, Time magazine named the Caribbean country “the most homophobic place on earth.” Buggery and anti-sodomy laws that criminalize homosexual intimacy are still on the books. Though they are rarely enforced, these laws buttress Jamaican society’s systematic marginalization of queer individuals. LGBTQ+ individuals face mob violence and constant death threats, many coming from the police force. To escape persecution, they travel from town to town, rarely able to settle in one place and hold a steady job. This, coupled with the expulsion from families that many queer Jamaicans face, has driven many to homelessness. Forced to live away from virulent homophobia, many live in sewers.
40% of the requests Rainbow Railroad receives originate in Jamaica; 300 individuals have been relocated in the past two years. Activist groups on the ground have proven invaluable for the mission of Rainbow Railroad. Upon receiving a request for aid, the person’s identity must be verified and aid given in the requisite areas, including everything from plane tickets and hotel stays to housing assistance and legal representation in the refugee application process.
This process can take up to a year, and the average cost per person is $7,500. Surprisingly, Rainbow Railroad receives no money from the Canadian government, relying instead on private donors. Some donors make contributions in the thousands, but others make small donations through the website or become monthly donors.
The charity first received widespread attention in 2017 when it was one of the first international organizations to take action against the anti-LGBTQ+ purge in Chechnya. Led by Ramzan Kadyrov, the police, military and other state actors began capturing gay men at random and transporting them to detention facilities where they were tortured, raped and sometimes killed. Working with the Russian LGBT Network, Rainbow Railroad helped locate individuals in need and co-funded safe houses where queer individuals could live safely while the logistics of escape were handled. To date, 70 individuals from Chechnya, the Caucasus and Russia have been relocated thanks to Rainbow Railroad.
The charity’s work will become all the more necessary in the coming years. Communications director Andrea Houston notes that the amount of requests has been steadily increasing year after year as populism and authoritarianism flourish worldwide. “Unfortunately,” Houston said, “populism seems to be a winning political strategy right now, and the ones who receive the short end of the stick are marginalized people.”
Simultaneously, the COVID-19 pandemic has upended the lives of countless queer individuals. Bans on travel stranded queer refugees in their home countries. Lockdown measures gave police the license to target queer people and punish them unequally and disproportionately for lockdown violations. The growth of the state in many nations has allowed homophobia to become more embedded and systemic. For the time being, Rainbow Railroad will have to run nonstop in the fight against discrimination.
Michael McCarthy
is an undergraduate student at Haverford College, dodging the pandemic by taking a gap year. He writes in a variety of genres, and his time in high school debate renders political writing an inevitable fascination. Writing at Catalyst and the Bi-Co News, a student-run newspaper, provides an outlet for this passion. In the future, he intends to keep writing in mediums both informative and creative.
Strawberry fields in Spain, such as this one near Palos de la Frontera, supply 90% of Europe’s strawberries. Adam Jones, Ph.D./Global Photo Archive/Flickr. CC BY-SA 2.0.
The Dark Side of Spain’s Strawberry Fields
On July 1, Reuters reported that thousands of Moroccan women were brought over to Spain’s southern Huelva province as essential workers to harvest strawberries in the midst of the coronavirus pandemic. These women were housed in “abysmal conditions and without basic hygiene,” according to Olivier De Schutter, the United Nations Special Rapporteur on extreme poverty and human rights. De Schutter told Reuters that the migrant workers are housed in overcrowded settlements with “poor access to water and sanitation … no ventilation of work spaces ... absence of cleaning of any surfaces or objects.” CNN reported that more than 7,000 Moroccan workers are now stranded in Huelva province after Morocco closed its borders in order to stem the spread of COVID-19. The workers, desperate to get home to their families, have no money and nowhere to go.
The exploitation of Moroccan migrant workers—women in particular—in Spain is not new, but during the middle of a global pandemic the disregard for the migrant workers’ lives is made more apparent.
For years, Moroccan women have reported that they have been sexually assaulted and harassed, abused, forced to work in unsafe conditions, and not been paid their full wages. Many of these reports come from workers on the strawberry farms.
Spain is the largest exporter of strawberries in the European Union. The fruit is so vital to Spain’s economy that it is sometimes called “red gold.” The strawberry farms in Huelva produce 97% of the summer fruit. “The delicate fruits - which sell for around 3 euros per kilogram in Spanish supermarkets - are harvested by the hands of thousands of migrant workers, including between 14,000 and 19,000 temporary laborers from Morocco. During harvest, workers often live in crowded huts on the farm and rarely get a glimpse of life beyond the strawberry fields,” according to Middle East Eye.
In 2001, Spain and Morocco signed a labor agreement granting Moroccan women temporary visas to harvest fruit in Spain under specific conditions: the women had to be poor and they had to be mothers. These requirements ensure that the women are desperate for work and will not stay in Spain as they have a family they have to get back to in Morocco.
In July 2019, The New York Times reported on the exploitation of Moroccan women on Spanish strawberry farms. 10 women who worked on the Donana 1998 d’Almonte farm filed lawsuits that included “accusations of sexual harassment and assault, rape, human trafficking and several labor violations.” The women had been promised high wages, training and accommodations with a kitchen and washing machine with four women per room. Instead, the women lived in dusty, overcrowded rooms with windows covered in cardboard. “I felt like a slave. Like an animal. They brought us to exploit us and then to send us back. I wish I drowned in the sea and died before arriving in Spain,” one woman told The New York Times.
Workers’ unions and human rights groups like Women’s Link Worldwide are advocating on behalf of the Moroccan women. On June 3, Women’s Link and seven other organizations sent an urgent report to the U.N. warning of the risk COVID-19 poses for the Moroccan women and other seasonal migrant workers on the strawberry farms. They have asked the U.N. “to issue a joint statement to the competent authorities of Spain and Morocco and the businesses involved demanding protection for the health and rights of migrant workers in Huelva.” Women’s Link further specified that the protections should be long term and not last only for the duration of the coronavirus pandemic.
In 2019, Women’s Link represented four women who had been hired to work in Huelva in 2018. The four women were told they would have continuous employment for three months and a trial period of 15 days, with housing provided at no extra cost. When the women arrived in Spain, they discovered the conditions were not what they had been promised. In addition to having an unpaid trial period that would last an entire month, the women were expected to work longer hours for less pay, and the cost of accommodation would be deducted from their wages. According to Women’s Link, the four women also “reported the sexual harassment they suffered at the hands of the field manager.”
The field manager in question is currently under investigation and is awaiting trial by a court in the town of Moguer.
Asiya Haouchine
is an Algerian-American writer who graduated from the University of Connecticut in May 2016, earning a BA in journalism and English. She was an editorial intern and contributing writer for Warscapes magazine and the online/blog editor for Long River Review. She is currently studying for her Master’s in Library and Information Science. @AsiyaHaou
Asiya Haouchine
Graphic of Mona Lisa wearing sanitary mask. Folsom Natural. CC BY 2.0
Studying Abroad Amid Lockdown
According to the Institute of International Education, the University of Georgia ranks thirteenth in the nation for the number of students who study abroad. With over one hundred faculty-led programs and nearly 2,000 students studying abroad each year, global experiential learning promises an expanded worldview and diversified education.
During my second year pursuing a Spanish degree at the University of Georgia, I decided to study abroad in Valencia, Spain. Expecting to explore Europe for six months, I eagerly boarded a plane from Atlanta to Madrid with three bulky suitcases. From December to January, I spent my days attending lectures at a local university, traversing the Spanish countryside, and conversing with locals. Amid my cultural immersion, reports began to emerge about the coronavirus outbreak in China. I naively believed this novel disease would not impede trips to England, France, and Portugal.
By February, however, COVID-19 had inundated Europe, forcing many study abroad students to return home. UGA’s Office of Global Engagement, like many universities, consequently issued this statement: “The University of Georgia recognizes that international travel, communication, and partnerships are essential to UGA's academic, research, and outreach mission and supports these endeavors. Countries and areas that carry U.S. State Department Travel Advisory Level 3/4 require special consideration and review to manage and mitigate risk, and in many circumstances, require the avoidance of travel altogether.” After a soccer match against Milan, a coronavirus epicenter, Valencia’s travel advisory was raised to a level 2.
Fearing my study abroad program would abruptly end, I intended on visiting as much of Europe as possible. For three consecutive weeks, I took advantage of cheap airfare and traveled to London, Paris, and Lisbon. Each city’s hotels, restaurants, and tourist attractions were practically vacant. I had imagined the streets of Paris, the city of romance and culture, to be bustling with music and lovers walking hand in hand. Yet, during the last week of February, Paris was eerily still. I waited for five minutes to climb the Eiffel Tower and Arc de Triomphe, while most tourists wait over an hour. In the Louvre, which normally averages 15,000 visitors per day, I observed artwork like the Mona Lisa and Venus de Milo in silence. Even Champs-Elysees, the most famous street in Paris, was deserted. Apart from the occasional Parisian in mask, it seemed I had the city to myself. Days after departing Paris, the government announced, “All gatherings of more than 5,000 people in confined spaces will be cancelled.” Infamous sites that I had just toured, like the Louvre and Eiffel Tower, were closed indefinitely.
On March 11, more chaos ensued as the World Health Organization’s Director General, Tedors Adhanom, declared the coronavirus a pandemic, stating, “We have rung the alarm bell loud and clear.” The following day, while I slept in my Valencia dorm, President Trump announced travel restrictions on 26 European countries, including Spain. Although the 30-day travel ban did not apply to legal residents of the United States, Spain simultaneously imposed a nationwide lockdown to combat the virus. Madrid barred travel to and from the city, and word spread that international flights would soon be suspended. In the early hours of March 12, I was awoken to program directors frantically pounding on my door. They affirmed we had a mere 24 hours to escape Spain on the final flight to Atlanta.
I hastily packed clothes and souvenirs and boarded a bus to Madrid, leaving behind two suitcases full of belongings and many unsaid farewells to Spanish friends. After a five-hour excursion and many failed attempts to enter the city due to strict quarantine orders, I finally arrived at the Madrid-Barajas Airport. Panicked passengers in makeshift masks and hazmat suits rushed to their gates. Travelers emptied suitcases into trash cans to avoid long check-in lines. University students tearfully begged customer service for tickets home. While rushing through security, the customs officer reviewing my ticket murmured, “You’re lucky you found a flight out of here. Volver pronto,” meaning “come back soon.” On March 14, one day after my return to the United States, the Spanish Prime Minister, Pedro Sanchez, declared a state of emergency which placed the country on lockdown and cancelled all outgoing flights. I had narrowly escaped an impending two-month state of emergency.
On March 13th, travelers in hazmat suits rush through the Madrid-Barajas Airport. Photo by Shannon Moran.
Upon arrival in Atlanta, CDC workers recommended 14-day quarantine and randomly screened a handful of passengers for fevers. On April 20, Georgia Governor Kemp disregarded public health officials by announcing, “We will allow gyms, fitness centers, bowling alleys, barbers, cosmetologists, hair designers, nail care artists, estheticians, and massage therapists to reopen their doors.” Following a chaotic return to the United States and cancellation of my study abroad experience, I continue to fear contracting and spreading COVID-19 in a state reopening. In spite of dismay and uncertainty, I witnessed the world at a pivotal moment in history. Amidst a worldwide pandemic, I visited Europe’s cultural epicenters, and volveré pronto, I will return soon.
Shannon Moran
Shannon is a Journalism major at the University of Georgia, minoring in English and Spanish. As a fluent Spanish speaker, she is passionate about languages, cultural immersion and human rights activism. She has visited seven countries and thirty states and hopes to continue traveling the world in pursuit of compelling stories.
Riding into the myst, braving the unknown. @Jeremyj0hn. Used by permission.
Unlearning by Bike — A Modern Hero’s Solo Journey from Thailand to Spain
Meet Nicole Heker, a 26 year old world traveler, writer, Director of Development at the Happy Kids Center in Bhaktapur, Nepal, and cycle tourist making her way from Thailand to Spain solo.
When she graduated from Penn State University in 2015, her professor challenged her to “unlearn.” Not her well-earned education, but her limiting cultural myths and expectations. Discovering the symmetry between Joseph Campbell’s Hero’s Journey and Carl Jung’s process of Individuation, Nicole set off to write her own myth by following her bliss. Her journey led her to teach english overseas, to backpack the 500 mile El Camino de Santiago in Spain, and eventually to becoming a core team member with the Happy Kids Center in Bhaktapur, Nepal.
Their vision is to free the children of their community through education, health care, and the abolishment of child marriages. Since 2016, the Happy Kids Center has helped increase school enrollment by 45% and reduced child labor to 8%, with many of those attending school in addition to their work. And they’re just getting started. The Center is establishing long-term stability by hiring local staff and partnering with the government to offer incentive-based scholarships, community meal days, vocational programs, and child-marriage prevention initiatives. Ultimately, they don’t want to be needed anymore. They would rather see the community empowered to create its own change and growth in the future.
As part of that goal, and to continue her quest to “unlearn,” Nicole set out on a solo bicycle journey across Asia and Europe to raise $12,000, enough to cover an entire year’s worth of expenses for the Happy Kids Center.
Nicole’s journey began in Chiang Mai, Thailand on March 8, 2018, the International Day of the Woman. As a woman of symbols and rituals, this was an empowering day for her to embark. Soon, cycling across unknown landscapes became a moving meditation in which Nicole began to unlearn myths about what it means to be a productive human living a meaningful life. She’s learning to live slowly, like the shepherds and herders, but fiercely, like the Kyrgyz horse riders and Mongolian falcon hunters. She is learning to trust and rely on the good nature of people without naïvely closing her eyes to real-world dangers. She’s re-evaluating her needs, wants, and limits. No porcelain doll defined as a sweet, delicate, sexual thing, Nicole is becoming a woman who runs with the wolves.
The sheer joy of conquering mountains. @Jeremyj0hn. Used by permission.
Embracing the unknown is a key part of the journey for Nicole. With her eyes set on Sevilla, Spain as the finish line, she’s embracing the twists and turns along the way. She fell in love with the Mongolian steppes, trusted the flow through difficult border crossings, and traversed mountain passes and cultural barriers alike. Along the way, Nicole has learned first-hand the importance of caring for the land she travels through, how the most positive impact is often the least physical impact. As a cycle-tourer, she spends most of her time in the spaces between tourist destinations, and may be the first foreigner a local has ever met. Through such experiences, she has learned to respect each place she encounters as belonging to the locals and their culture, even when she doesn’t understand their customs. Traveling with an open heart has given Nicole the opportunity to see the world with a new clarity and shown her how people all over the world really want the same things.
Beside crystal blue waters. @Jeremyj0hn. Used by permission.
Nicole’s journey continues through the Republic of Macedonia, and her adventures can be followed and supported through her website, Unlearning By Bike. The best way to learn more about the Happy Kids Center is to visit their website at www.happykidscenter.org. There are multiple ways to get involved and support their work directly, including one-time donations to any of their campaigns, volunteering services such as media and web design, and becoming part of the Happiness Tribe through recurring monthly donations. Happiness Tribe members receive quarterly gifts and newsletters as well as invitations to special events.
Joseph Campbell describes the ideal life as being filled with one Hero’s Journey after another. Nicole Heker is certainly filling her life up. And most inspiring of all, she’s not hoarding her experiences for herself, but sharing them and the lessons she’s learning along the way with all of us.
By: Todd Holcomb
VIDEO: Explore the Spectacular Sights in Barcelona
In few other cities is it possible to walk from spectacular location to spectacular location. Barcelona is one city that holds every kind of tourist destination for travelers. Locations visited include but are not limited to: Museu Nacional d'Art de Catalunya, Gran Teater del Liceu, Sagrada Familia, Museu D'Historia De Barcelona, Palau de la Música, and Santa Maria del Pi. Barcelona has so many wonderful areas to explore, including everything from soccer games for sports fans to art museums for creative minds. Consider taking a trip to Barcelona to explore these sights.