Exploring Iceland’s Westfjords

Delve into the natural beauty and memorable experiences awaiting in Iceland's overlooked northwestern region.

A small town on a fjord in the Westfjords, Iceland. RaulHudson1986. CC0.

The serene and volcanic landscapes of Iceland have attracted adventurous travelers for many years, especially the popular Golden Circle and Ring Road routes. Yet, both paths exclude one of the most scenic areas of the country, the Westfjords.

The Westfjords of Iceland is a sparsely populated, panoramic region with little geothermal activity that many travelers often overlook. Despite this neglect, there are many amazing experiences here to add to your Icelandic adventure.

1. Dynjandi Fjallfoss Trail  (Arnarfjordur) 

Dynjandi Fjallfoss in Arnarfjörður, Iceland. Jacqueline Macou. CC0.

This majestic waterfall is the largest in the region and is frequently referred to as the Westfjords’ most beautiful attraction. It is part of a series of seven waterfalls that unravel down the peak, originating from the waters of Lake Stora-Eyjavatn. The sound that emanates from these falls mimics thunder, and it’s understood why the waterfall’s name, Dynjandi, translates to “thunderous” or “booming." 

From the parking lot, you can hike your way up the seven waterfalls, but take caution as it can be quite slippery and mossy. The average person can do this hike in around 15 minutes, but it is recommended to take your time to enjoy each one. At the peak, you can revel in the mist of the magnificent waterfall, try the fresh glacial water, and look out over the extensive views of the fjord upon your descent. 

2. Museum of Everyday Life–Hversdagssafn (Isafjordur) 

Museum guests in the sensory lab in Ísafjörður, Iceland. Courtesy of Hversdagssafn.

This museum provides an intimate perspective on the everyday life of Icelanders that is largely overlooked in mainstream tourism of the island. Founders Vaida and Björg refer to Hversdagssafn as more of an art project under the guise of a museum, one that aims to collect human connection. From exhibits on family histories told through donated books from the old church, short films about the winter seasons and a local distaste of the Northern Lights to heartfelt reflections on being an immigrant in Iceland, this museum is sure to give you a fresh perspective on life in the Westfjords and the pillar of community using all five of your senses. 

3. Hike to Hornstrandir (Hornstrandir)

Hiker crossing the river in Hornstrandir on a trek to Hornbjarg cliff. Kristyna Sindelkova. CC0.

Hornstrandir (​​227-sq-mi) is an uninhabited area of the Westfjords that is only accessible by boat during the summer between June and August. It’s frequently called “Europe’s last wilderness” and deemed a “hiker’s paradise.” All of the homes on the peninsula have been restored since the last farmers left in 1952. 

After establishing Hornstrandir as a protected Nature Reserve in 1975, the area’s 250 species of flowering plants and 30 species of nesting birds have thrived. Up to six million birds nest on the cliffs during the summer, with species including the Atlantic puffin, Arctic terns, black guillemots and penguins. It is the only sanctuary for Iceland’s prized native mammal, the Arctic fox. As the region is uninhabited and the animals are protected, the foxes have no fear of travelers and will often raise their kits near campsites. Polar bears have also been known to drift on ice to Hornstrandir from Greenland, though this occurrence is rare. 

The area’s tundras, cliffs, flower fields and ice prove to be exciting hiking routes for self-sufficient adventurers. You can enjoy the vast region through multi-day hikes or day trips where you can eat traditional cuisine at the Old Doctor’s House. You can also do multi-day kayak tours that weave in and out of the fjords and camp overnight in the wilderness or at sleeping bag accommodations. Guided tours are highly recommended, and booking in advance is required. 

4. Tjöruhúsið (Ísafjörður)

Town of Isafjordur in the Westfjords of Iceland. Gestur Gislason. CC0.

Immerse yourself in this Icelandic fish buffet, only open for dine-in during the summer season, for a communal dining experience with unlimited access to a range of unique platters and local music. It is a family-owned and run restaurant that has no menu, as the restaurant caters to the catch of the day. The atmosphere is warm, welcoming and familial. Plates vary from traditional Icelandic fish stew, to thorskkinnar (cod cheeks), monkfish and more. The restaurant also serves as a meeting space for public events within the community. Reservations for the lunch and dinner serving times during the summer seasons are highly recommended to ensure a seat at the delicious buffet-style gathering.  

5. The Icelandic Museum of Sea Monsters (Bíldudalur)

A cautionary sign was posted along the road in Iceland. Dendron. CC0.

Take a step back in time and discover old Icelandic lore and legend of the creatures that may or may not have plagued the Nordic seas. This region is known across Iceland for its historic reputation for prolific sea monster activity. At the Icelandic Museum of Sea Monsters, visitors can witness the extraordinary creatures of the deep vividly portrayed through an immersive and interactive blend of language, visuals and videos. Eyewitness testimonies are paired with scholarly insights into the realm of sea monsters, as on-screen narratives and academic perspectives infuse the space. Moreover, an array of relics and artifacts, serving as tangible remnants, color the museum, offering compelling evidence of their existence. The museum also has impressive interactive maps that draw on all kinds of monster legends from around the world.

Additionally, as you visit the museum, a highly recommended pitstop nearby is Reykjafjardarlaug Hot Spring, a geothermal pool just outside of the town for an ideal rest in warmed geothermal waters. 

6. Whale Watching

Whale watchers aboard a RIB boat in Iceland. Courtesy of West Tours. CC0.

The waters of the Westfjords are home to many arctic species, including up to 20 species of whale. Here you will likely encounter dolphins, humpback whales, beak whales, minke whales and orcas. These polar water tours are frigid and icy and thus can be experienced on more relaxed boat tours. However, if you are looking for a more adventurous and open-air whale-watching tour, you can opt for an open RIB boat safari where you can feel the pulse and spray of the ocean while capturing up-close views of marine life. Most tours depart out of Isafjordur or Holmavik and last two to six hours. Almost all tours guarantee incredible whale and nesting bird sightings. 

Whale watchers experiencing a whale sighting in Iceland. Courtesy of West Tours. CC0.


Julz Vargas

Julz is a student at Wellesley College studying Anthropology and Spanish. She grew up in Los Angeles, CA, and has studied all around the world in places such as Costa Rica, Greece, Iceland, and Spain. She is passionate about employing writing as a tool to explore human connection and diversity. Julz aspires to foster cross-cultural connections through community-based research, amplifying inclusive and diverse media about global cultures, foods, and people, to encourage individuals to engage more wholly with the world.


LGBTQ+ Life and Culture in Iceland

Iceland has a reputation for being one of the safest and most accepting countries for the LGBTQ+ community, travelers as well as Icelandic residents.

Pride flags in Reykjavík. Symbioticadesign. CC BY-NC 2.0.

While Iceland is an unusually safe and accepting place today, it has had a rocky history with LGBTQ+ rights just like everywhere else. Because Iceland is so geologically isolated from the rest of the world, Icelandic people rarely even married people from other countries prior to World War II. During World War II, Icelandic women began coupling up with and marrying non-Icelandic soldiers who were stationed in the country, and even these heterosexual relationships were met with disdain. This attachment to “traditional marriage” bled over into the public perception of LGBT+ relationships, meaning that homophobia was also rampant at that time. Even thirty years later, the first famous Icelander to come out as gay in the 1970s, Hörður Torfason, was driven out of Iceland by the extreme homophobia he faced.

However, the tide turned relatively quickly in Iceland between the 1970s and the 1990s, but not without great struggle. In 1978, the Icelandic National Queer Organization was formed, which played a major role in promoting gay rights in Iceland. In 1996, Iceland became the fourth European country to officially recognize same-sex unions. By 2004, 87% of Icelanders supported gay marriage (which was officially legalized in 2010) while in 2004, only 42% of Americans did.

Today, Iceland is a popular travel destination for LGBTQ+ travelers wishing to go somewhere that they can feel comfortable and safe. In fact, Iceland has several popular travel guides and agencies that specifically serve LGBTQ+ travelers: Gay Ice and Pink Iceland. While these websites acknowledge that like anywhere, queer people can still be targetted in Iceland, it is apparently rare, and most hotels, nightlife, gyms and other public places are known to be accommodating of same-sex relationships as well as transgender and nonbinary identities, providing gender-neutral facilities and acknolwedging and respecting preferred pronouns. 

Reykjavík Pride 2009. Filip J. Cauz. CC BY-NC-SA 2.0. 

A large number of businesses and homes in Iceland have pride flags outside their windows, and Iceland hosts several LGBTQ+ events throughout the year that attract hundreds of thousands of tourists. In fact, travelers for the Reykjavík Pride Festival, which occurs in August, account for nearly a quarter of the people in Iceland that month. Reykjavík Pride is regarded as one of the major events of the year in Iceland for everyone, not only people who identify under the queer umbrella. How widespread and anticipated Reykjavík Pride is each year reflects how far Iceland has come in terms of acceptance and safety for LGBTQ+ people. Reykjavík also has a festival in February, called the Reykjavík Rainbow Festival. This is another highly anticipated and attended LGBTQ+ festival in Iceland. Additionally, there are smaller celebrations throughout the year all over the country. 

Iceland is known for being very open about same-sex relationships, with queer couples openly showing affection in public generally without fear. There are also LGBTQ+ historical landmarks in Iceland: Gay Ice recommends the LGBT History Walk, which is a walking tour through Reykjavík’s most important LGBTQ+ destinations, along with information about historical events in Iceland throughout the LGBTQ+ rights movement. 

Iceland is an excellent destination at any time of year for anyone, but especially travelers in the LGBTQ+ community. However, August and February are two of the most interesting and inspiring times to visit, so that one can catch the famous pride festivals.


Calliana Leff

Calliana is currently an undergraduate student at Boston University majoring in English and minoring in psychology. She is passionate about sustainability and traveling in an ethical and respectful way. She hopes to continue her writing career and see more of the world after she graduates. 

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