7 Sites of Mexico City’s Architectural Diversity, from Baroque to Brutalist

June 16, 2022

Mexico City is a flourishing metropolis with a plethora of historic and modernist architectural sites. Here are a few attractions scattered around the city.

A street at the center of Mexico City. Flickr user Franx’. CC BY-NC 2.0.

A Gothic cathedral sits next to a glassy business building. Brick houses with arabesque detailing overlook the noisy streets full of men in suits and street food vendors. Mexico City is growing every year; its multiplicity of neighborhoods hosts a variety of architectural styles and people from all over the globe. Often regarded as an oasis of modernity in the entirety of Latin America, this urban center has been labeled the “next Paris'' or as a new version of New York. Given its history of colonialism and its willful modernization under Porfirio Diaz, Mexico City’s compilation of architecture is oftentimes representative of its past and present. Here’s a cursory glance at a few of Mexico City’s sites of modernization, and the contradictions at play in these structures.

The Central Library of the National Autonomous University on a gloomy day. Mark Hogan. CC BY-SA 2.0.

1. Central Library of the National Autonomous University

Juan O’Gorman’s Central Library of the National Autonomous University (UNAM) is a spectacle to behold. This behemoth holds the qualities of international modernist architecture: its 14-story frame sits above a glassy ground floor which looks over a neatly gridded yard. Yet, O’Gorman’s building doesn’t possess the stoicism of standard midcentury modern architecture; its distinctively Mexican-themed mural makes the building a historic storybook. Like a visual epic, the “Historical Representation of Culture” mural includes the expansive timeline of pre-conquest Mexico, the Spanish conquest, Mexican modernization and Mexico’s future. One can spot mosaics of the beginnings of Tenochtitlan, and the clash between pre-Hispanic Mexico and vehicles of Spanish colonialism. O’Gorman believed his mosaics of these cultural signifiers would make the library “different from the rest of the buildings within University City” by giving it a distinctly “Mexican character.”

A corner of the exterior of Casa Luis Barragan. Forgemind Archimedia. CC BY 2.0.

2. Casa Luis Barragan

Casa Luis Barragan, which was built in 1948, looks as if it were suspended in time and space: colorful red walls jut into the placid blue sky, although they are immobile in detail and structure. Luis Barragan is a world-renowned architect whose eccentric architectural style can be recognized in his buildings’ solid colors, geometric shapes and sparsity of details. This vibrant house is a foil of O’Gorman’s direct homage to Mexico as a nation; it highlights formalist qualities over political values, which Barragan considered secondary to his architecture. Barragan is an expert at manipulating elements of nature. The play of shadows within the structure itself and the use of greenery turns an otherwise intimidating monument into a livable habitat. Although countless travel journals have attached Mexican modernist themes to Barragan’s home, it resists the supposed markers of “Mexican” aesthetics and remains a private site of great accomplishment.

Thousands visit the Basilica de Guadalupe daily. Alex Marduk. CC BY 2.0.

3. Basilica de Guadalupe

Pedro Ramirez Vazquez’s seminal work, the Basilica de Guadalupe, is a sacred destination for thousands of Catholics around the world. The area it sits on, Tepeyac, was originally a place where Aztecs worshipped Tonantzin, or “the divine mother.” As a result of the suppression of Aztec religions during Spanish occupation, the Basilica de Guadalupe was built for Our Lady of Guadalupe who was said to have appeared before St. Juan Diego. The original colonial basilica was severely damaged in 1921 in a bomb attack, but Vazquez’s new Basilica de Guadalupe renovated the sacred site. This site was just one of Vazquez’s projects dedicated to industrializing Mexico, as shown in its modernist disk shape and the sheer mass of its structure.

Monumento a la Revolucion sitting at the city center. Ismael Villafranco. CC BY 2.0.

4. Monumento a la Revolucion

Located in the Cuauhtemoc borough of Mexico City, Monumento a la Revolucion is a stately memorial which celebrates the Mexican Revolution of 1910. Mirroring many of the United States’ federal buildings in Washington, the monument’s perfectly symmetrical Roman dome is fortified by brick pillars which meet at the four corners of the structure. Carlos Obregon Santacilia continued the project after it had been abandoned by both the state and the French architect they commissioned for the building, Emile Benard. Oliverio Martinez’s smooth sculptural representations of independence, reform, agrarian laws and labor laws protect the mausoleum on its four corners. In this marriage of neoclassical elements and Mexican nationalism, the Mexican government actively constructs its origin story via the conventions of Roman and French architecture.

Close-up shot of Martinez’s sculpture on Monumento a la Revolucion. Flickr user tchelseat. CC BY-NC 2.0.

A view of the facade of La Santisima Church. Wikimedia user Protoplasmakid. CC BY-SA 3.0.

5. La Santisima Church

La Santisima Church is covered in the Spanish churrigueresque style, which is the Baroque style that was dominant in Spain during the 18th century. Its facades are adorned with ornate carvings of the apostles, angels, Jesus and Mary placed in between its many columns. Although it appears relatively normal in a city full of extravagant churches, the distinctive religious iconography on its exterior deems La Santisima Church worthy of close attention.

Museo Soumaya shines brightly on sunny days. Flickr user Dan. CC BY 2.0.

6. Museo Soumaya

No piece of architecture screams “contemporary” like the Museo Soumaya. Museo Soumaya, which houses thousands of sculptures and paintings from pre-Hispanic Mesoamerica up to European impressionist works, is a piece of art itself. The Plaza Carso building in particular is an intriguing malformed shape dressed in millions of aluminum hexagons. Taking inspiration from Frank Lloyd Wright’s Guggenheim in New York, Fernando Romero designed the Plaza Carso as an enigma: the concept behind the work is intentionally vague, and the usefulness of its parabolic shape questionable.

Front view of Museo Anahuacalli. Javier Castañón. CC BY-NC-ND 2.0.

7. Museo Anahuacalli

Although Diego Rivera is widely known for his painted murals, his exploration of three-dimensional design is just as noteworthy. Rivera’s Museo Anahuacalli was made of his own accord; Rivera wanted a space for his collection of over 50,000 relics of pre-Hispanic Mesoamerica. The style of the building is an amalgam of various Mesoamerican styles, taking inspiration from Teotihuacan and the temples of the Mayans and Aztecs. The exterior of the museum has the symmetry of neoclassical architecture, while its interior is heavily influenced by the Aztec pyramid.

Many scholars speculate that the development of uniquely “Mexican” architecture, seen through Mexico City’s plethora of sites, stems from a desire for national representation. Mexico City’s postcolonial realities are found in its very infrastructure: one cannot ignore the presence of Catholicism, the reminders of a pre-Hispanic Mesoamerica, and the complications of deliberate industrialization. Juan O’Gorman’s library attempts to artfully marry the past, present and future. Casa Barragan is the work of a maverick who resists the narrative of a national architecture. The grandiose Basilica de Guadalupe is holy ground for millions of Catholics, yet it strays from the Gothic style of typical European cathedrals.

The sheer amount of voices and styles in this sprawling metropolis is telling of its complicated relationship with modernization. There is no shortage of historic, formal, religious and artistic values in each of Mexico City’s buildings.

Islamic Architecture in Spain

July 29, 2021

While many can forget that Arab and North African Muslims controlled parts of Spain for almost 800 years, longstanding Spanish architecture is a testament to the Muslim reign. Arabesque patterns, Islamic motifs and sandy colors have been preserved in some of Andalusia’s most famous palaces and fortresses.

Great Mosque of Cordoba, Spain. Richard Mortel. CC BY 2.0.

Arab and North African Muslims conquered the Iberian Peninsula in the eighth century. Ruling for almost 800 years in Al-Andalus (currently Andalusia), Muslims inevitably left traces of their presence in the region. Everything from language and religion to architecture and art was adopted by Spain during the Muslim reign. Around 4,000 Spanish words which are still in use today originated from Arabic. The majority of these words are nouns related to food, animals, nature and science. For example, the Spanish word for “olive” is “aceituna” and is derived from the Arabic word “zaytünah.”

While aspects of the Arabic language can be found in Spanish, Islamic architecture is the true evidence of the Arab and North African Muslim reign in Spain. Certain sites in modern-day Andalusia make you feel like you’re in Morocco or Syria. Today, Islamic architecture is most prevalent in Cordoba, Seville and Granada—Spanish cities in Andalusia—with their palaces and holy sites.

Cordoba

Cordoba was the capital of Al-Andalus when it was first conquered in 711 A.D. The Great Mosque of Cordoba is a testament to the Arabic and Islamic influence in the city. Elaborate building programs and agricultural projects were sponsored by Prince Abd al-Rahman I from Damascus, Syria. The prince imported plants from Damascus, some of which still stand in the yard of the Mosque of Cordoba today.

Previously operating as a mosque and church at different points in history, the captivating structure includes a hypostyle prayer hall, a beautiful courtyard with an extravagant fountain, a colorful orange grove, a walkway circling the courtyard and a minaret which is now a bell tower. Islamic calligraphy and verses from religious scriptures fill the sandy, red and white colored columns. Geometric shapes dominate the structure—in everything from design to entryways. One major Islamic motif that is evident in this structure is the horseshoe shaped “mihrab.” The mihrab identifies the wall that faces Mecca—Islam’s holiest city that features the home of God, the Kaa’ba—and indicates which direction to face while praying. The mihrab is decorated in gold and brown detailing. Above the mihrab sits a mesmerizing dome filled with pointed gold arches and radial patterns fill the ceiling.

The mihrab, Great Mosque of Cordoba. Kevin Poh. CC BY 2.0.

The dome above the mihrab in the Great Mosque of Cordoba. mitopencourseware. CC BY-NC-SA 2.0.

Seville

The Royal Alcazar in Seville is one of the world’s oldest palaces that is still in use today. This palace has been awarded status as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The Alcazar was first built in the 11th century when the Arabs moved in and sought to create a secure, residential fortress. Since then, Alcazar has been home to the many monarchs who have taken control of Seville. The initially Islamic structure was renovated by its following rulers; however, the palace’s Islamic roots shine through as many of its Islamic components have been preserved.

One of the palace’s courtyards, the Patio del Yeso, was created in the 12th century when the region was still under Muslim control. The courtyard features a large pool in the middle—a common theme in Islamic architecture. Water is at the heart of Islamic architecture for both practical and spiritual reasons. Considering that the Arabs and North Africans came from dry climates and desert landscapes, it was important for them to have easy access to reliable sources of water. Furthermore, in Islam, water symbolizes life and purity. Water in gardens, specifically, symbolizes the sacred lake in paradise that is reserved for only the righteous.

Other recurring Islamic motifs that are found in the Alcazar include keyhole or horseshoe shaped arches, doors and windows; traditional Islamic plasterwork and latticework; Islamic writings; and a heavy presence of plants. The horseshoe arch is known as an “alfiz” and the Islamic-style window screens are known as “mashrabiya.” These, in addition to the icicle-like droppings from ceilings and domes, are common components of modern-day mosques and other traditional Islamic structures.

The gardens of the Alcazar were used not only for aesthetic purposes, but also for functional purposes. While the plants and trees were grown in the palace’s gardens for beauty, the plants were also used to feed members of the court. The gardens themselves were strategically structured to resemble what Muslims imagined paradise to look like based on the descriptions in the Quran.

Patio del Yeso at the Royal Alcazar in Seville. Richard Mortel. CC BY-NC-SA 2.0.

Garden in the Royal Alcazar, Seville. Jocelyn Erskine-Kellie. CC BY-SA 2.0.

Granada

The Alhambra Palace in Granada is further evidence of the Islamic rule in Spain. The name Alhambra itself derives from the Arabic word “Al-Hamra” which means “red.” The palace was given this name for its reddish bricks and walls which can be seen from afar. Alhambra’s layout mimics that of many other palaces for Muslim princes. Three main floor plans dominate the site: the “mexuar” was open to all and the room where sultans received their subjects, the “diwan” is the throne room where receptions were held, and the “harem” is the prince's private quarters. Islamic inscriptions and verses from the Quran flood the walls, while the gold detailing accents the writings.

Mosaics and colored tiles in geometric and plant-like shapes, referred to as “alicatado,” are also in certain quarters. The mosaics are not only decorative but also contain strategically chosen tiles to cool the structure in the summertime. Plant motifs align with Islamic principles, as the depiction of human images is often frowned upon. The Fountain of the Lions in Alhambra is one of the most photographed features of the palace, with 12 lions spewing water in the middle of the courtyard. Other famous aspects of Alhambra which are covered in arabesque patterns and constructed to resemble the gardens in heaven, include the Generalife and El Partal, two of the quieter locations in the palace.