24 Hours in Berlin

September 28, 2023

Getting to know the Grey City in a jiffy.

Brandenburg Gate. Wolfgang Staudt. CC BY-NC-ND 2.0

Berlin is a gritty city, and one whose food, architecture, monuments and culture can only be explained through its grave past. The German capital is a historic center of Europe as the nerve center of Nazi Germany in World War II, the greatest symbol of the Cold War’s infamous Iron Curtain and the prime city to see grand Prussian architecture. While many German institutions like monuments, transportation and active government buildings paint a picture of this historical influence, the picture of Berlin would be left incomplete without mentioning its spirited present.

In between landmarks like the Reichstag, Germany’s Parliament building, the famous Brandenburg Gate, the remains of the Berlin wall and Prussian palaces lies an amalgamation of diverse restaurants with owners from every corner of the world, a bustling nightlife of clubs and bars, a thriving local music scene and a fashion-forward community.

Berlin is an urban city through and through; its streets and unassuming apartment buildings (sprinkled between colorful modern architecture) comparable to those of Istanbul with an artistic, stylish flair reminiscent of New York. Live through a bit of history and a bit of present with me as I spend a day in Berlin:

We’re out and about today, but refuse to approach our day on an empty stomach, so we head to a local breakfast place, Erchy’s. Other days we have feasted on the cinnamony pastries of a staple German breakfast cafe, Zeit fur Brot, and even some German-made cheeses bought from German grocery store REWE when we really wanted to masquerade as Berliners. But today is Erchy’s. Their food will fuel the traveling to be done.

Swans in the palace gardens of Charlottenburg. Su Ertekin-Taner.

Graffiti near the S-bahn. Su Ertekin-Taner.

Lily pads in the palace gardens of Charlottenburg. Su Ertekin-Taner.

Charlottenberg. Rfunnell. CC BY-NC-ND 2.0

Graffiti in Berlin. Mitch Altman. CC BY-SA 2.0

We immerse ourselves in Berlin’s public transportation system after food. We use the U-bahn, the German metro, and then the S-bahn, Berlin’s fastest form of transportation to get to today’s location. At times using Berlin’s transportation reveals more about the divide of Berlin via the Berlin wall than any museum could, I think.

Altogether, the journey takes about 45 minutes from the center of East Germany. As we travel, the underground tunnels melt into cloudy skies that overlook old beige buildings decorated completely with graffiti. Berlin’s graffiti scene is one of the most vibrant in the world due to the rise of a countercultural voice during the Cold War and the Berlin Wall days. Graffiti galleries, exhibits, and alleys like the East Side Gallery, Cafe Cinema and Raw Gelande are staples of the Berlin community. As I wander through my thoughts, I sense the train stop. The trek has been made and so, we expect to be met with a reward.

The Charlottenburg Palace more than qualifies as a reward. This Baroque palace was originally constructed on behalf of Friedrich III’s (later King Friedrich I) wife Sophie Charlotte, hence the name. The interior of the palace is richly decorated, representing the height of Prussian high culture: porcelain from the royal porcelain providers KPM lines the walls, mantels are decorated with an East Asian-inspired blue and a ballroom fit with large windows divides the palace in two and overlooks the gate. The signs that guide us through the palace also note, however, the racist portrayal of Middle Eastern and East Asian figures throughout the palace’s art; the Prussian monarchy hoped to assert its dominance in every corner.

Behind the palace, we escape into nature, or a manufactured sort of nature: the Charlottenburg Palace Gardens, inspired by those of Versailles. We walk near rivers of lily pads, greet some sheep tended by palace attendants, swans and even some bike riders; the access to this park is free.

Chicken gemuse kebab at Ruyam. Su Ertekin-Taner.

Doner kebab. Addison Berry. CC BY-NC-SA 2.0

By the late afternoon, we have ambled back near the center of East Berlin. We decided on chicken gemuse doner at Ruyam Doner, which offers the best doner kebab in Berlin, though we did consider a meal at one of the many Vietnamese restaurants — established by the large Vietnamese community —in the area. The line spills out of the restaurant and into the street; everyone is craving some of this chicken gemuse. But the line quickly shortens until we are ordering our kebab of moist chicken, a spicy blend of sauces, and slightly heated bread.

Turks are the largest ethnic minority group in Germany and often occupy entire neighborhoods like Keuzberg. Many Turks immigrate to Germany for work and stay, or accompany family members who have already migrated. As a Turk, I feel lucky to taste a part of my culture on the streets of Berlin.

A biergarten in Elisabethmarkt. digital cat. CC BY 2.0

We end our day with a biergarten, or beer garden experience. A biergarten usually consists of an open air bar filled with long tables of merry drinkers and well, their drinks; the biergarten is integral to the German citizen and open-air lover.

We encounter fewer merry drinkers than we plan to, but still sit alongside friends talking and a couple laughing. I have a feeling we’ve arrived in the belly of Berlin, especially as more Berliners gather round, huddle up, and grab some warming alcohol during this chilly summer.

For travelers hoping to find a warm community with a common motivation–tasting the richness of German beer–a biergarten might fulfill your needs.

While my day quickly ended after my biergarten experience, no two 24 hours in Berlin can be alike, so here are some more options for day adventures to quench your traveling thirst.

Reichstag building. Jurgen Matern. CC BY-SA 3.0

Monuments

Reichstag: The Reichstag, the Parliament building of Germany, actively houses Parliament meetings throughout the year, and somewhat unusually, also allows visitors year round. Attending a tour of the Reichstag means sitting in the German Parliament’s main chamber, observing interior corridors with Russian graffiti completed after the Russian capture of the building in the Battle of Berlin and receiving an oral history from World War II on.

Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe: This Holocaust Memorial, designed by New York architect Peter Eisenman, consists of 2711 concrete blocks of varying heights laid out in a rectangular city block. Visitors might note that the blocks increase in height as they approach the middle of the monument; many speculate that this effect reflects the rising fear and agony of the Jewish community throughout World War II.

Brandenburg Gate: While this neoclassical gate was originally constructed in the 18th century, much of its history lies in the coming centuries. The Quadriga statue of horses perched on the top of the gate, for example, tells a history of Napoleon’s acquisition of Berlin. Napoleon transported the statue out of Berlin to reflect his victory over the Germans. The Brandenburg Gate also symbolizes the division between East and West Berlin during the Cold War, as the Wall was constructed within a couple meters of the gate.

World Clock at Alexanderplatz. Berthold Werner. CC BY-SA 3.0

Public Squares

Alexanderplatz: This public square named after Russia’s Tsar Alexander I is a commercial and transportation center that houses malls, public art and even live events like concerts. Visit the world-famous World Clock that tells the time of countries around the world, watch a stark yellow tram pass by through crowded streets, or even spot the Berlin TV Tower from afar.

Potsdamer Platz: Potsdamer Platz, located about a mile from the Brandenburg Gate, contains much of the city’s culture. Find the Sony Center dome housing an international cinema, restaurants, offices, museums and the center of underground transportation here —all constructed after the destruction of the public square during World War II.

Museums

Ishtar Gate in the Pergamon Museum. Rictor Norton and David Allen. CC BY 2.0

Pergamon Museum: The Pergamon is one of the museums located on Berlin’s “Museum Island.” The building boasts its collection of classical antiquities from Middle Eastern civilizations and Islamic cultures. The most famous exhibits include the Market Gate of Miletus, the Ishtar Gate that opened up to the processional way to the eponymous capital of the Babylonian Empire and the Aleppo room featuring paneling with images of both the Islamic and Christian faith.

Topography of Terror: Such a historical city requires a history-based museum. The museum itself is located on a plot that once housed administrative buildings of the Nazi Party, like the headquarters of the SS and the Gestapo. The one-floor museum uses exhibition panels (supported by historical documents and quotes) to guide visitors through the rise and eventual fall of the Nazi Party.

Other

Brandenburg Gate. Dennis Jarvis. CC BY-SA 2.0

Historical Walking Tour: A city with such plentiful history necessitates a historical walking tour. Sightseeing walking tours take visitors through World War II and Cold War monuments like the Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe and the demarcation of the Berlin Wall, respectively, as well as some of Berlin’s must-see sights like the Brandenburg Gate and even the Reichstag.

Cuisine

A dish from Madami. George M. Groutas. CC BY 2.0

German cuisine: While much of German food pays its cultural respect to other international cuisines, some German dishes are uniquely synonymous with German culture. Sausages accompanied by sauerkraut or potato salad, rouladen, beef-wrapped bacon, onions, mustard, and pickles and sauerbraten — a German pot roast — all grace the menus of German restaurants. Try restaurants Schwarzwaldstuben in Mitte, Max and Moritz in Kreuzberg, and Clarchens Ballhaus also in Mitte for a taste of Germany.

Vietnamese cuisine: Due to the influx of Vietnamese immigrants —many of whom were temporary contract workers — into East Berlin during the Cold War, the city offers much authentic Vietnamese food. Some high-rated restaurants include Madami located on Rosa Luxemburg Street, Monsieur Vuong on Alte Schonhauser Street, and Maison Umami on Schlesische Street.

Turkish cuisine: Much like the Vietnamese, a Turkish community slowly immigrated to Germany for work and stayed to build institutions that reflect their culture, like the Turkish restaurant. Doner, lahmacun (the Turkish Pizza) and borek (a salty Turkish pastry) proliferate in Berlin. Some high-rated restaurants include Hasir in Kreuzberg, Adana Grillhaus on Manteuffel Street, and Osmans Tochter near Helmholtz Platz.

Nightlife

Clubs: The Berlin party scene is second-to-none. Berlin’s clubs are perfect for those craving a new eccentric song to add to their playlist or a place to wow their friends for a night. Room 4 Resistance’s playlists of tunes with genres ranging from contemporary pop to industrial techno attract a diverse group of music lovers. For those music lovers who prefer to stick to a genre or two, Weeeirdos’ techno sets and Hoe_Mies’s R&B and trap music might be a perfect fit.

Biergarten: Outdoor lovers might prefer the biergarten, or beer garden, night experience. Under a dusk sky, between clumsily strung up lights, lies a comforting community of German beer lovers gathering around wooden benches and tables and self-serving the ale. Try the Prater Beer Garden, Schleusenkrug, and Golgatha Beer Garden for some biergarten action.

Bars: Whether you desire a cocktail or a dance floor for the night, a Berlin bar or two will satisfy your appetite. When in the party capital of Europe, you must do as partiers do, and partiers love to gather on these alcohol-washed oases. Gay bar Model Olfe, aesthetic Victorian-inspired bar Geist im Glas and the traditional Bar 3 are all excellent alternatives for a night of drinking and dancing.

Su Ertekin-Taner is a first year student at Columbia University majoring in creative writing. Her love for the power of words and her connection to her Turkish roots spills into her satire, flash fiction, and journalistic pieces among other genres. Su hopes to continue writing fearless journalism, untold stories, and prose inspired by her surroundings.

Independence and Adventure in Nordic Parenting Culture

September 28, 2023

Nordic countries’ healthcare and parenting culture allows for an unusual amount of balance and independence — for both children and parents.

Winter stroller walks are the norm. William Fortunato. CC0.

When walking through the streets of Orestad — a developing neighborhood just seven minutes by metro from central Copenhagen, Denmark — it's not uncommon to see dozens of strollers being pushed by young parents clad in thick jackets and scarves. In fact, it seems that this relatively new and modern neighborhood is populated primarily by young parents with babies and toddlers.

Meanwhile, in Oslo, Norway, streets outside of coffee shops and grocery stores are also crowded by parked strollers. Despite the same cold temperatures, the parents are nowhere to be seen. Bundled tightly, the children are left alone to enjoy the cold weather.

Although these two Scandinavian countries take slightly different approaches to monitoring young children, there is much overlap in the parenting cultures of many Scandinavian (and, more broadly, Nordic) countries. In general, many of the parenting techniques new mothers and fathers practice are rooted in a desire to teach their children independence, empathy, respect, and responsibility all while keeping them safe and healthy — even though some tips and tricks may seem shocking to outsiders.

Orestad in Copenhagen, Denmark. Jonas Smith. CC by 2.0.

Perhaps the time and care it takes to foster this unique parenting culture stems from the unusual, yet tremendously beneficial, length of parental (both maternal and paternal) leave in many Nordic countries. In Norway, for example, parents of all genders have the option to take fifteen weeks of paid leave and are paid 100% of their pay, or can take nineteen weeks at 80%. The only difference is that mothers must take the first six weeks after their child’s birth off while their partner begins their quota from week seven after birth. Similarly, in Sweden parents together are entitled to 480 days or paid parental leave (240 per parent). Days off not taken by one parent can be transferred to another if needed.

The result of these lengthy leaves has not only fostered a deeper sense of shared responsibility by both parents, but also a greater amount of care and attention focused on personalized early childhood development. The level of shared cultural focus on and respect towards young children is just one of the many factors that contribute to the level of safety and health among infants and toddlers in Nordic countries.

Because of their time at home, a huge staple of Nordic parenting culture is “play” time. Whether children bond with parents at home, or are encouraged to go outside the home and make friends independently, children in Nordic countries are encouraged to explore, play and discover their adventurous side from a young age. There is even a word for this: “friluftsliv.” The word can be roughly translated to “open-air living” and serves as a mantra for parents (and non-parents, too!)

“Friluftsliv” has been a norm for decades. Anders Beer Wilse. CC0.

While play in any capacity is important, play outside is considered especially beneficial to young children. Rather than being scolded for being too rambunctious or messy, children in Nordic countries are encouraged to run and climb to their hearts’ content. Even in the cold weather that pervades Nordic countries for more than half of the year, children bundle up and get outside in the fresh air.

Rain or shine, it is completely normal to see little ones either running around outside or sleeping! Although there is a deep emphasis on energetic outdoor activities, one of the most prevalent cultural and parenting norms is to leave children outside to sleep. Even in freezing cold temperatures, children are put down to nap outside. Of course, they are accompanied by warm blankets and outerwear. Few in Scandinavia fear the cold, where doctors in Nordic countries recommend outside napping to decrease the risk of illness and infection.

And, when children aren’t enjoying playtime with parents, bundled-up naps, or outdoor adventure, they have the opportunity to start day care as mere one-year olds. In Denmark, childcare charges are capped at 30% of the actual cost for nurseries and after school centers. In Norway, child centers are open 10 hours per day and charge a maximum fee of US $250 a month.

While having a child is a tremendous responsibility, both the healthcare benefits and parenting culture in Nordic countries allows a balance that eases some stress among new parents. Though unique, many aspects of Nordic parenting culture harness an unprecedented sense of adventure and independence in early childhood.

Carina Cole is a Media Studies student with a Correlate in Creative Writing at Vassar College. She is an avid journalist and occasional flash fiction writer. Her passion for writing overlaps with environmentalism, feminism, social justice, and a desire to travel beyond the United States. When she’s not writing, you can find her meticulously curating playlists or picking up a paintbrush.

A 4-day Guide to Exploring Rome

September 26, 2023

Rome is a city full of must-see sites, but it can be overwhelming to plan for. Here is a 4-day itinerary to make sure you see all the top spots, while getting the atmosphere of a unique European summer.

Rome, Italy. @Bert Kaufmann. CC BY-SA 2.0

“A European Summer” is now the aesthetic of the season, spurred on by Gen Z and Millennial creators on TikTok. It’s a fashion statement, and young American women are obsessed with flowing white dresses, gold jewelry, maxi skirts, and more. The romanticization of European cities is a perfect escape from the monotonous urban environment Stateside.
Over the past month I was lucky enough to travel to Rome, Italy and experience a taste of the European summer that influencers have been talking about nonstop. But a trip to the Eternal City takes a lot of planning and, while it was only my first time exploring the history-rich city, I feel as though I know enough to compose an ideal 4-day itinerary — so travelers can experience every aspect of the European summer.

Day 1

As your feet touch the streets of Rome, it’s important to keep two things in mind: firstly, your primary means of transportation will be by walking, especially if your hotel accommodations are in the heart of the city itself, something I definitely recommend. So, pack footwear accordingly. Second, temperatures will be soaring. Expect around 100 degrees Fahrenheit, particularly in mid-summer.

Trevi Fountain. @NikonZ711. CC BY-SA 4.0

I recommend getting familiar with the main tourist sites on the first day. These include the Spanish Steps and Trevi Fountain, which are located relatively close to one another. Both are beautiful in the daylight and won’t eat up too much of your time. Throughout the streets it’s common to find small stores that sell gelato or souvenirs — pop into one and notice that prices are surprisingly cheap, especially compared to costs in the US.

One of the things I enjoyed about my time in Rome was the vibrant nightlife, so make sure to take advantage of all the city has to offer when the sun sets. The temperatures are much more bearable and the streets are filled with small, lively alleyways that offer restaurants and more stores. Live music is usually always playing, especially in places where tourists are likely to flock. If you’re looking for an opportunity to wear that white flowy dress you bought just for the sake of fitting the Italian summer aesthetic, now’s the time.

Enjoy the unique scenery and environment, and make sure to visit the Spanish Steps once more — while a great place to visit in the daytime, this tourist site comes to life at night and brings that perfect feeling of that “European Summer” the TikToks show so often.

Day 2

Hopefully you got a full night’s rest, because day two is the perfect day to visit Vatican City — a landlocked independent country within the borders of Rome itself. It’s important to dedicate an entire day to this because, while you’ll most likely only spend a few hours exploring, the exhaustion will set in quickly.

If interested in the Vatican Museums, I strongly recommend buying tickets weeks beforehand and selecting an earlier time. The tourists that were hoping to get tickets on the day of had to wait in line for hours on end in the burning heat. Make sure to arrive early, since the museum is a little further than expected from the main entrance to Vatican City.

Once in the museum, you can either follow your tour guide or explore at your own pace, depending on the ticket you bought. You’ll get a glimpse of St. Peter’s Basilica — a famous church built in Renaissance style — from a viewing platform and get to visit the Sistine Chapel, a Catholic church located inside the Vatican Museums home to some of Michelangelo’s finest work.

Because Vatican City is a Theocratic city-state, most websites will advise you to wear a certain type of outfit. But because it’s so hot in the summer months, it’s alright to push the rules a little. Showing up in shorts and a T-shirt is completely acceptable.

Take the rest of the day to recharge. Walking to, from and around Vatican City can get very tiring, especially if it’s hot out. Stay close to your hotel for dinner, and day two will shoot past in the blink of an eye.

Day 3

Depending on whether or not you’re fascinated by Roman culture, Day 3 is dedicated to the rest of the places you weren’t able to see. For me, this included the Pantheon and Piazza Navona, which are both very close to one another. Shopping in Rome was also a pleasant experience, with such cheap prices, so I recommend it if you’re able to fit it in.

For dinner, venture on over to Trastevere — a neighborhood filled with authentic Italian restaurants, located just across the Tiber River. The pasta and pizza is, of course, something every visitor should try. Paired with a drink of your choice, it’s hard to question why Rome is a city that attracts so many people from all over the world. The constant chatter of customers, the lights hung up as decoration, and the comfortable temperature combine to make a perfect getaway.

Day 4

Your last day in Rome should be dedicated to doing whatever you want. After three full days of so much walking, your body is bound to be tired, so just take this day as a time to relax and soak this experience in.

I know I haven’t mentioned the Colosseum — and it isn’t because it’s been forgotten. During my trip, I visited the Colosseum at night on my last full day in Rome, and it was the right decision. Of course, depending on the kind of traveler you are, this might not be your ideal itinerary but I loved seeing one of the most iconic landmarks in the world at night. I didn’t have to worry about the heat, and there is something so special about seeing the Colosseum lit up with hundreds of lights as it towers above you. It’s a great image to part Rome with, and along the road you’ll most likely pass the Roman Forum, which is impossible to miss.

A night view of the Colosseum. @Aaron Logan. CC BY 1.0

Personally, this 4-day itinerary helped me get the feel of every aspect of the “European Summer” — from its nightlife to its famous sites, it didn’t disappoint. Depending on the type of person you are, this itinerary is bound to change but as someone who loves spontaneity and surprises, I followed this rough guide and was able to soak in all the wonders of this eternally beloved city.

Michelle is a senior at Boston University, majoring in journalism and minoring in philosophy. Her parents are first-generation immigrants from China, so her love for different cultures and traveling came naturally at a young age. After graduation, she hopes to continue sharing important messages through her work.

Pathways and Pilgrimages: Exploring The Camino de Santiago

September 19, 2023

This pilgrimage to the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela in Spain has been a centerpiece of Christian spiritual life for thousands of years, and a destination for travelers around the world.

The Santiago de Compostela. Dafydd Parri. CC BY-NC-ND 2.0.

The Camino de Santiago, also known as the Way of St. James, marks a pilgrimage to the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela in Galicia, an autonomous community in northwestern Spain. Extending roughly 500 miles and taking about 30 to 35 days to complete at an average of around 15 miles per day, the Camino is known today both as a center for Christian spiritual life and a hiking haven for travelers looking to submerge themselves in nature with affordable accommodations and opportunities to adventure through local villages along the way.

Today, around 300,000 travelers make their way through the Camino every year, and those who complete the journey earn a Compostela Pilgrims Certificate. According to measurements from 2021, 45% of travelers reported walking the Camino for “religious and other reasons” while 30% reported walking the Camino strictly for religious reasons and 24% said they had no religious reasons for the pilgrimage. The growing popularity of the Camino as a secular travel experience as well as a religious one is aided by its accessibility. While daily expenditures on the Camino depend largely on the town one is stopping in, travelers can plan to budget for about $30 a day to cover the cost of food. Albergues, or hostels specifically made for pilgrims, are also a reliable and affordable option for accommodations along the Camino, with municipal albergues typically costing between $5 to $10 per person, while private albergues range between $12 and $15 per person. Via Lusitana helps connect travelers to albergues along the Camino Portugues.

While there is no exact starting point to the Camino, there are a handful of popular routes to choose from including Camino del Norte, Camino Primitivo, and Camino Ingles. The two most popular routes are that of the Camino Frances, which begins in Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port in southwest France, and the Camino Portuguese which starts from Portugal’s coastal city of Porto. While the Camino Frances covers 500 miles, the Camino Portuguese offers two distinct routes: the Camino Portuguese Central route which is 385 miles and the Camino Portuguese Coastal route which is 175 miles.

The Camino became a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1993 and was recognized as the first European Cultural Route in 1987, however its history is one that dates back to the 9th century, when remains of the apostle James were believed to be found in Galicia. Saint James preached in the Iberian peninsula before returning to Jerusalem, where he was beheaded by the king Herod Agrippa I in 44 AD. The legend surrounding St. James details how his body was transported from Jerusalem to Spain via a boat and was buried by his followers in Galicia in what is now the city of Santiago de Compostela.

The tomb was discovered in the 9th century by the bishop Theodomir. Upon its discovery the King of Asturia, Alfonso II, widely considered the first pilgrim to the Santiago de Compostela, traveled to the site and ordered that a church be built at the place of burial. Construction began in 1075 and the church was consecrated in 1211.

To accommodate an increase of pilgrimages through the Camino in the Middle Ages, bridges and other infrastructure were built along the route to aid travelers. Between the 11th and 13th century, the Camino’s rising popularity gave rise to a network of housing options and medical services along the route, including hospitals chartered by European kings.

The Camino’s many routes were created by early travelers who shared information amongst themselves regarding the safest travel conditions, which nearby towns to stop in, and where to source food and water throughout the journey. Though lacking official infrastructure, these paths became well defined by the pilgrims who traveled them for hundreds of years. It was not until the 1980s that Father Elías Valiña Sampedro, a priest of a neighboring Galician village, added yellow arrows along the path in an attempt to prevent travelers from getting lost.

Camino Frances

El Alto del Perdón. Rocco Rossi. CC BY 2.0.

As the most popular route, the Camino Frances sees around 55% of all travelers on the Camino de Santiago. Embarking on the French Way is one of the most social options to experience the Camino, and those who do so are sure to run into fellow pilgrims and have opportunities to build connections and a sense of camaraderie along the way.

The entire Camino Frances starts at St Jean Pied de Port, a commune in southwest France, and extends roughly 500 miles and takes about 30 to 34 days to complete with an average of about 15 miles per day. However, the most popular starting point for travelers along the Camino is found at the last 60 miles of the pilgrimage, in the city of Sarria. This last stretch of the Camino takes approximately 7 days and passes through the towns of Portomarin, Melide and Arzua.

Travelers embarking on the Camino Frances will move through the Pyrenees mountain range and into the La Rioja region of Northern Spain. Travelers interested in enjoying the region’s world famous vineyards can explore a variety of wine tours showcasing the region’s diverse earthly flavors.

Other notable traveling stops along the Camino Frances include the Spanish city of Pamplona, whose yearly San Fermín Festival every July features the country’s world-famous bull runs. When the festival is not happening, the Pamplona remains a popular resting spot for travelers along the Camino to explore Gothic and Renaissance art at the Museum of Navarra and the historic Plaza del Castillo where cafes and bars such as Cafe Iruna served as prominent landmarks in American novelist Ernest Hemmingway’s life and writing.

Another highlight along the Camino Frances is the sculpture of El Alto del Perdon, which shows metal silhouettes representing pilgrims traveling through the Camino on foot and horseback. The art piece is located near the town of Puente de la Reina, a historical meeting point for early pilgrims traveling the Camino through a variety of routes along the Pyrenees. The town’s current architecture derives from attempts to accommodate pilgrims during the Middle Ages, including the bridge constructed under Queen Muniadona to assist pilgrims in their travels. The bridge is responsible for the town’s namesake, with Puente de la Reina translating to “the queen’s bridge.”

Camino Portugues

Travelers on El Camino. Staffan Andersson. CC0 1.0.

An alternative to the Camino Frances, the Camino Portugues begins in Portugal and moves the coastline up to Galicia as the second most popular path for the Camino de Santiago pilgrimage. The route gained popularity in the 12th century after Portugal gained its independence when Queen Isabel of Portugal, known as the “Holy Queen,” made the pilgrimage herself in the 14th century. Today, the Camino Portugues sees about 25% of all travelers embarking on the pilgrimage.

There are three main routes that travelers embarking on the Camino Portugues can choose from: the Central Route, which takes around 12 days, the Coastal Route, which takes between 12-14 days, and the Litoral Route, which follows the Coastal Route in large part while also incorporating pathways onto the beach. All routes meet in the Spanish town of Redondela before reaching Santiago de Compostela.

Each route carries its own advantages and disadvantages. The Central Route has more infrastructure and access to towns and accommodations, however it is also the busiest route, seeing 70% of all travelers on the Camino Portugues. Comparatively, only about 30% of travelers opt for the Coastal Route, making it a quieter experience with less built-in tourism.

Those starting the Camino Portugues from Porto will get to enjoy the city’s famous local port wine, the Baroque style Porto Cathedral — or Se do Porto — and the boat tours of the stunning Douro River.

Vigo is a popular starting point for those who want to experience the last 60 miles of the Camino, and the city offers a variety of activities including fish markets and a coastline overlooking the Cies Islands.

Services such as Pilgrim help travelers create a personal guide for their trip, curated towards each individual’s preferred route and transportation type — including walking, cycling and completing the Camino on horseback or with pets. Pilgrim also helps connect travelers to special services while on the road, including the options to order bike gear, rent a car and transport personal luggage.

Online guides are another helpful tool for travelers when it comes to finding rest stops and maps of nearby towns to explore along the Camino

Jessica Blatt graduated from Barnard College with a degree in English. Along with journalism, she is passionate about creative writing and storytelling that inspires readers to engage with the world around them. She hopes to share her love for travel and learning about new cultures through her work.

Hagia Sophia: Istanbul’s Oldest Building

September 19, 2023

Having served as a church, mosque and museum, Hagia Sophia represents both religion and history in Istanbul.

Built in the 6th Century, Hagia Sophia is the oldest building in Istanbul, Turkey. This ancient structure has been an important spiritual center for both Christians and Muslims, and its history is shown through its architectural features. Here is a deep-dive into the creation of Hagia Sophia, its meaning to different cultures, and how to visit it today.

History

Interior of Hagia Sophia. Wolfgang Guelcker. CC BY 3.0.

Originally named “Megale Ekklesia,” or “Great Church,” Hagia Sophia was built in 360 under Emperor Constantius. After the church was destroyed by riots in 404, it was rebuilt by Emperor Theodosius in 415. During this period, the church received its current name, “Hagia Sophia,” or “Holy Wisdom.” After being burned down during a revolt in 532, the final structure of Hagia Sophia was resurrected under Emperor Justinian I in 537, with some restorations in the 14th century. This version of the church was known as the Cathedral of the Ecumenical Patriarchate of Constantinople, which was a spiritual center of the Eastern Orthodox Church. After the Ottoman Empire took over Constintinople in 1453, Sultan Mehmet II repurposed Hagia Sophia, which served as a mosque until becoming a museum in 1935. In 1985, Hagia Sophia became a UNESCO World Heritage site, giving official recognition its long cherished cultural value.

Controversy

Greek protest against Turkey. Des Byrne. CC BY 2.0.

In 2020, Hagia Sophia was renamed a mosque under the Turkish government. This decision created controversy between Turkey and other nations, as repurposing it as a mosque draws away from the entirety of the structure’s history and the mutual respect between religions. This also strengthened existing tensions between Turkey and Greece, as Hagia Sophia was once part of the Greek Orthodox Church.

Architecture

Dome

Following St. Peter’s Basilica in Rome, Hagia Sophia is home to the second largest pendentive dome in the world. The main dome of the structure has a diameter of 107 feet and is supported by 4 pendentives, which are large triangular arches that meet in the middle of a structure. These structures are one of the earliestlarge pendentives to ever be made. There are also two semi-domes on each side of the main one, supported by columns.

Columns

Hagia Sophia has 140 columns, all from different parts of the world. For example, the purple columns supporting the semi-domes of the structure originated in Egypt. There are also green columns from the Artemis Temple in Ephesus, an ancient Greek city. The most prominent columns are made of Verde Antique stone, which was mined from quarries in the city of Larissa, Greece during the Byzantine empire. These columns are 34 feet tall, and its material was used frequently during the 6th century.

Mosaics

Mosaic of the Virgin Mary and Jesus. World History Encyclopaedia. CC BY-NC-SA 4.0.

Originally, Hagia Sophia displayed many Christian mosaics, but these images were covered during the Ottoman Empire. Some of these mosaics depict angels and praise Jesus and the Virgin Mary, while others take the form of emperors such as Justinian and Constantine. One of the most iconic mosaics shows the Virgin Mary holding baby Jesus, and this image remains uncovered today. Created in the 860s, this is the oldest mosaic in Hagia Sophia.

How to Visit

People visiting Hagia Sophia. Magnus Manske. CC BY 2.0.

Though it has reverted to a mosque, Hagia Sophia is still open to the public. Visitors are required to remove their shoes before walking its carpets. Hagia Sophia is open to the public every day of the week, but closes to non-worshipping visitors during prayer hours. Guided tours of Hagia Sophia are also offered through different websites, usually for a fee.

Click here for more Hagia Sophia visitation guidelines.

Alexandra is a student at The College of New Jersey studying psychology and journalism. She is a lover of coffee, dancing, and visiting new places. Being raised with her Greek culture has inspired her interest in cultural customs around the world. She is a passionate writer and hopes that her work will make an impact in the future.

Going at it Alone: The Highs and Lows of Solo Travel

September 19, 2023

Though riddled with its own challenges, solo travel provides unparalleled opportunity to build confidence and create friendships on the road.

7 Books by LatinX Authors to Read This Hispanic Heritage Month

September 15, 2023

From literary classics to modern favorites, here is a list of must-read titles by LatinX authors in celebration of Hispanic Heritage Month.

A traditional dancer performs at a Hispanic Heritage Month festival. GPA Photo Archive. CC0

With an incredibly rich history and huge variety of cultures, it is no surprise that Latin America has consistently produced world famous and award winning authors for decades. From historical fiction about the continent’s troubled colonial past to light-hearted stories about colorful local traditions, the diversity of Latin American literature spans time and space to offer incredible insights into life for bookworms and the average fiction reader alike. In celebration of September as LatinX Heritage Month, here are seven incredible books by LatinX authors to add to your reading list.

“Violeta” - Isabel Allende

Left: Violeta. Goodreads. CC BY-SA 2.0 Right: Isabel Allende. Lesekreis. CC BY-SA 2.0

Multi-award winner Isabel Allende’s most recent novel follows the titular character from her birth to her death over a tumultuous century. Violeta is born during the Spanish Flu in 1920 and lives through the Great Depression, World War II and all the changes brought by the turn of the twenty-first century, while navigating family, romance and her own desires. Allende, arguably the first internationally successful female Chilean author, is known for writing in the “magic realism” style, weaving history with fiction and myth with reality to create engaging plotlines that find their roots in Hispanic culture, society, and politics. This novel is no different, and Violeta’s story, written in the form of a letter to the one person she loves the most, recounts 100 years of Chilean history through the eyes of a determined, humorous woman who, above all else, carries a deep love life.

“Solito” - Javier Zamora

Left: Solito. NBCNews. CC BY-NC 2.0 Right: Javier Zamora. Dan Vera. CC BY-SA 2.0

A poet by trade, Salvadoran writer and activist Javier Zamora has collected his fair share of accolades, and is currently a Radcliffe Fellow at Harvard University. The New York Times bestseller “Solito” is his latest project having been published in 2022 and tells the heart wrenching story of Zamora’s perilous journey from El Salvador to the United States at only nine years of age. Leaving his extended family and childhood home behind, Javier travels almost entirely alone to reunite with his parents who had fled the country years earlier. He has no way of knowing about the seemingly insurmountable obstacles that will stand in his way, or the group of kind-hearted strangers who will come to treat him like one of their own. This biographical memoir is unlike either of Zamora’s earlier published works, and provides an incredible and intimate account of a story shared by millions of Central American migrants who have no choice but to flee their homes due to violence and political unrest.

“A Little Luck” - Claudia Piñero

Left: A Little Luck. Charco Press. CC BY-NC-ND 2.0 Right: Claudia Piñero. Secretaría de Cultura de la Nación. CC BY-NC 2.0

After the success of her earlier novel “Elena Knows,” Argentine novelist and finalist for the 2022 International Booker Prize Claudia Piñero has astounded her readers once again with this 2015 novel which has only recently been translated to English. Piñero has an incredible talent for exploring the depths of unbelievably tragedy and pain while offering her audiences brief moments of hope, and “A Little Luck” is no different. The novel follows Mary Lohan, a woman who fled the suburbs of Buenos Aires after an accident but has finally returned two decades later. While on the outside she in no way resembles her past self, she is very much still the same Mary, and as the past starts to resurface her present begins to crumble. “A Little Luck” is a beautifully crafted story about love, lies, unforgettable places, uninvited people, and most of all, the inescapable power of fate.

“The Brief Wondrous Life of Oscar Wao” - Junot Díaz

Left: The Brief Wondrous Life of Oscar Wao. Biblio. CC BY-NC-ND 2.0 Right. Junot Díaz. American Library Association. CC BY-NC-SA 2.0

Originally published in 2007, this novel won the Pulitzer Prize for Fiction in 2008, along with a host of other awards. Dominican-American author Junot Díaz penned this novel, during his time at MIT, where he continues to teach in the Creative Writing department. Díaz wrote several works while attending the prestigious university, but “The Brief Wondrous Life of Oscar Wao” remains his most well-known and celebrated title to this day. The novel follows the titular character, a lovable and overweight Dominican teenager living in New Jersey with his mother and sister. He wants nothing more than to become a world famous author, except for maybe finding true love, a dream that feels far out of reach given the curse that has afflicted his family for generations and has resulted in only ill-fated romances. With an incredibly skilled hand, Díaz guides his readers through the life of Oscar and his family, both past and present, while also touching on the brutal reign of Dominican dictator Rafael Trujillo.

“Like Water for Chocolate” - Laura Esquivel

Left: Like Water for Chocolate. Grab The Lapels. CC BY-SA 2.0 Right: Laura Esquivel. Secretaría de Cultura de la Ciudad de México. CC BY-SA 2.0

This 1989 novel was translated into English in 1992, and immediately became a modern classic in the pantheon of Latin American literature. The title comes from a common idiom in Spanish-speaking countries, “como agua para chocolate,” which refers to an intense state of emotion, whether it be anger, excitement or even arousal. Mexican author and screenwriter Laura Esquivel chose this for the title of her first novel because of the many references to food and culinary culture throughout the story, which add to her detailed description of family life at the turn of the century in Mexico. The novel makes use of humor and magic to explore a bittersweet love story both relatable and fantastical, as well as its impact on the families at the center of the drama. Each chapter begins with a recipe filled with cleverly chosen words and descriptions which allude to upcoming character and plot developments, an aspect that was unfortunately largely lost when Esquivel wrote the screenplay for the 1992 movie adaptation.

“In the Time of the Butterflies” - Julia Alvarez

Left: In the Time of the Butterflies. Amazon. CC BY-NC-ND 2.0 Right: Julia Alvarez. Julia Alvarez. CC BY-SA 2.0

Julia Alvarez is a Dominican-American essayist, poet, and novelist who is known for her ability to weave fact with fiction and craft irresistible plotlines that detail political and social events through the eyes of colorful and relatable characters. “In the Time of the Butterflies” is a perfect example of this, as a work of historical fiction with its foundations in the very real story of the Mirabal sisters, four young women who tirelessly fought for their country’s freedom under the dictatorship of Rafael Trujillo in the Dominican Republic during the 1900s. Known by Dominicans as “las mariposas” or “the butterflies,” the sisters were unfortunately assassinated in 1960 for their efforts to overthrow the government. Alvarez gives these characters a new life by imagining their time as teenagers, and how they came to be involved with revolutionary efforts before falling victim to the destructive regime. Through the voice of each sister, the story of their political involvement, victimization and deep love for each other slowly but surely come to light.

“100 Years of Solitude” - Gabriel García Márquez

Left: 100 Years of Solitude. Amazon. CC BY-NC-ND 2.0 Right: Gabriel García Márquez. Jose Lara. CC BY-SA 2.0

No list of Latin American literature is complete with this 1982 Nobel Prize-winning classic, and what many consider to be Gabriel García Márquez’s best work. The late Colombian novelist published this novel in 1967, chronicling seven generations of the Buendía family and the rural town of Macondo they built in Colombia between the 1820s and the 1920s. While separated from the rest of Colombian society by an imposing mountain range, Macondo is a microcosm of larger society with its troubles and its magic, although the key to all of the town’s secrets remain hidden in a coded book. Through its delicate blend of magic, reality, history, and tradition, Márquez presents an allegorical insight into the turbulent social and political atmosphere in Colombia during the post-colonial times, and the country’s development over the following century.

Tanaya Vohra

Tanaya is an undergraduate student pursuing a major in Public Health at the University of Chicago. She's lived in Asia, Europe and North America and wants to share her love of travel and exploring new cultures through her writing.

Island Hopping Off The Grid: 5 Filipino Islands You’ve Never Heard Of

September 15, 2023

From unspoilt beaches and heritage sites to surfing hotspots and sunset views, there is plenty to choose from in the Philippines without running into massive crowds.

The Philippines has literally hundreds of picturesque islands for visitors to choose from. EdseastresD600. CC BY-SA 2.0

With a grand total of more than 7,600 islands, it should come as no surprise that there are many in the Philippines that remain obscure to travelers from abroad. Each one boasts the crystal clear turquoise waters that characterize the popular tourist destination of Cebu, but each also offers its own unique adventures to visitors looking to experience the archipelago’s diverse natural beauty. Many of these islands are surrounded by hundreds of smaller ones, and thus offer island hopping adventures for those who want to explore some of the more isolated atolls in the area. To help get you started, here are 5 incredible and lesser known islands in the Philippines to explore.

1. El Nido

El Nido boasts a large number of private and unspoilt beaches. Boris G. CC BY-NC-SA 2.0

Known amongst locals for its breathtaking natural scenery, El Nido is located at the northern tip of Palawan province and stands as the gateway to the smaller but stunning Bacuit Archipelago. For visitors who want to enjoy luscious tropical greenery and stunning white sand beaches without the crowds, El Nido is the perfect destination, with a number of boat rental services that allow you to discover your own private inlets and limestone cliffs around the island. Because of its relative isolation, the island is also home to a diverse range of animal wildlife including monkeys, deer, peacocks, and even the occasional dolphin; as such, all single use plastic has been banned to help preserve its unique ecosystem. If you tire of the beaches, plan a hike to the summit of Taraw Cliff, which is the highest point on the island at roughly 886 feet (270 meters) and which offers stunning views of the central town and coastline. Alternatively, Nacpan Beach in the northeast hosts a zipline that allows visitors to fly across the water to another island nearby, giving island hopping an entirely new meaning.

2. Mindoro

Reef diving in Mindoro provides an unparalleled opportunity to visit the second largest coral reef in the world. Asia Divers. CC BY-NC-ND 2.0

Mindoro island is the seventh largest in the Philippines and its eighth most populous, located in the west-central region of the country. It remains relatively undeveloped and is thus not the most common tourist destination, but still offers incredible scuba diving opportunities for those looking to explore the area’s variegated coral reef ecosystems. In fact, as the second largest coral reef system in the world, those off the coast of Mindoro are home to 75% of the world’s known coral species and a huge variety of marine life including scorpion fish, manta rays and various shark species. Many of these reefs are located around Puerto Galera, which is also well known for its sugar-sand beaches and which can become quite busy, with locals flocking to the area during national holidays. Climbing the island’s tallest peak, Mount Halcon, with a guide is also an excellent way to explore its massive expanse of rainforest, and the summit provides amazing views over both the oriental and occidental sides of the island. The hike is definitely not for beginners, however, with an elevation of roughly 8,582 feet (2,616 meters), although the smaller foothills are easily manageable and could also allow for a meeting with the Indigenous Mangyan people, who have lived apart from mainstream Filipino society since the sixteenth century.

3. Coron

There are at least 12 shipwrecks to explore off the coast of Coron. Karel Kosman. CC BY-NC-SA 2.0

Like El Nido, Coron is also located towards the northern end of Palawan province and is known for its picturesque freshwater lakes. While there are a whole range of lagoons throughout the island, each with their own beach area and tropical foliage, the most popular of these is definitely Kayangan Lake which is one of the cleanest bodies of water in the country. Additionally, while Mindoro specializes in reef diving, Coron is one of the best spots in the world to go on incredible guided shipwreck diving adventures. A squadron of Japanese supply vessels were sunk by American bombers World War II just off the coast of Coron, and now lie at recreational diving depths suitable for divers of all levels to explore safely. Snorkeling is another great water sport option, especially at Siete Pecados, which boasts some of the healthiest coral reefs in the world and allows for a stunning and up-close view of the marine life in the area. Alternatively, visitors can also experience one of the only saltwater hot springs in the world at Maquinit surrounded by mangrove trees, where the water remains between 98º and 104º Fahrenheit (37º to 40º Celsius) year round.

4. Bohol

The Chocolate Hills are a National Geological Monument of the Philippines. An diabhal glas. CC BY-NC-SA 2.0

Like the other islands on this list, Bohol is home to a number of beautiful and scenic beaches, but is also one of the best islands on which to engage in on-land activities as well. For one, it is home to the famous Chocolate Hills, a World Heritage Site and Global Geopark which features iconic cone-shaped limestone hills rising out of the jungle canopy at 400 feet (about 122 meters) that were formed from coral reef deposits over 2 million years ago. Travelers can also visit the Tarsier Sanctuary, a large forest dedicated to the protection of the smallest primate species in the world, which is currently under threat of extinction. This site is one of the only that is run by an officially recognized animal conservation organization, and all proceeds generated at the site contribute to the continued upkeep and preservation of the sanctuary. Alternatively, Bohol also offers incredible man-made wonders like the Mahogany Forest, also known as the Bilar Man-Made Forest which, as the name suggests, was the product of a reforestation project in the late 20th century. The towering mahogany trees stretch for roughly 2 kilometers (1.2 miles) along the border of the Bilar and Loboc towns and are so densely packed that the foliage almost entirely blocks out the sun.

5. Siargao

Siargao is a popular destination for the best surfers in the world. Miguel Navaza. CC BY-NC-SA 2.0

Easily identifiable by its teardrop shape, the southern Philippine island of Siargao is the ultimate destination for those looking for an island that has remained largely untouched by mass tourism. It is known among locals as the surfing capital of the country, hosting both the National and Cloud 9 Surfing Cups every year. The latter competition is named for the most popular surf spot on the island, which is located in the East coast municipality of General Luna. During the rainy season between September and November, experienced surfers can enjoy waves between 8 and 12 feet (roughly 2.4 and 3.6 meters), although there are plenty of less intimidating spots for beginners as well like Jacking Horse in the South. There are also a large number of resorts on the island that offer surfing instruction at a variety of levels, as well as independently held surfing camps that run up to a week. If surfing isn’t quite your thing, Siargao is also home to the beautiful freshwater cave pools, waterfalls and white sand beaches where you can swim with non-stinging jellyfish and enjoy other water sports.

Tanaya Vohra

Colombia Unveiled: My Journey from Mountainous Bogota to Caribbean Cartagena

September 7, 2023

From palm forests to quaint towns to the scenic Caribbean, Colombia defies stereotypes and should be a must-visit destination on your South American travels.

Off The Beaten Path in Shanghai

August 31, 2023

From cultural collections to ancient architecture, here are 6 of Shanghai’s esoteric sites.

Shanghai’s skyline hides a city that blends historic culture and ancient tradition. Azizofegypt. CC BY-SA 2.0

The bustling metropolis of Shanghai is home to a whopping 26.3 million people, with an additional 632,000 tourists journeying to experience the city’s incredible history and traditions each year. Beyond the Bund’s iconic skyline and unbeatable nightlife, however, lie a treasure trove of hidden museums, culinary experiences and historical landmarks all waiting to be discovered. These lesser known enclaves will take you off the traditional tourist trails along the Bund or up the Pearl Tower, and will introduce you to new sides of the city’s multifaceted personality and culture.

1. Madame Mao’s Dowry

Madame Mao’s Dowry is chock full with vintage and modern Mao-inspired designs. Shanghai Collected. CC BY-SA 2.0

Whether you're an avid fashionista, a history enthusiast or simply curious about China's cultural heritage, a visit to Madame Mao's Dowry promises a full introduction to the impact of the Cultural Revolution and Mao Zedong’s rule on contemporary Chinese design. Its collection of artifacts ranges from photographs and posters to clothing and stationery, all displayed on antique furniture dating between 1949 and 1976, a period known eponymously as the Mao Era. Since 2001, Madame Mao’s has endeavored to highlight the complex connection between Mao’s political legacy and art by running various projects that encourage the use of old propaganda in modern visual art culture. In addition to the vintage items, the store also displays pieces by a handful of local Shanghai artists whose work draws from and reflects the artistic trends of the era, as well as housing their very own line of Mao-inspired paraphernalia. The intimate cultural space is occasionally transformed into a salon in partnership with Literary Shanghai, and hosts poetry readings, writing workshops and book launches among other events. Located in the Jing’An neighborhood to the west of the river, this store cum museum is definitely worth a visit.

2. Sheshan National Forest Park

Sheshan Basilica and the observatory sit atop the highest peak in the forest park. Meet In Shanghai. CC BY-NC 2.0

With an extensive and efficient public transport network, there is little excuse for overlooking destinations outside the city center. Sheshan National Forest Park is easily accessible from Sheshan Station and is the only natural mountain forest in the city’s vicinity. Covering over 400 hectares of land, the so-called resort includes several smaller parks and a multitude of hiking trails of varying difficulty, including the West Hill park in which stands the majestic Sheshan Basilica. Dating back to 1942, this towering 20 meter tall (roughly 70 feet) Roman Catholic cathedral has withstood extensive damage and unrest since its construction, and fuses traditional Chinese craftsmanship with the Western architectural tradition. In addition to the Basilica, the forest is home to China’s oldest observatory, an ancient tea garden, and 10,000 birds from over 50 distinct species. If visiting in the Spring, be sure to stick around for the Bamboo Shoot Festival, in which fresh bamboo shoots that break ground following the annual spring rains are harvested and prepared in local delicacies. Sheshan Forest Park is not to be missed by nature lovers or cultural explorers.

3. Propaganda Poster Art Center

The Propaganda Poster Art Center is tucked away in the basement of an apartment complex. Yasmin Crawford-Hunt. CC BY-SA 2.0

As its name suggests, Shanghai’s Propaganda Poster Art Center is home to the world’s largest collection of Mao Era propaganda posters, with over 6,000 individual artifacts on display. In addition to traditional paper signs that had been plastered all over public surfaces, the center has an impressive number of vintage cloth and woodcut pieces, as well as posters made in the “dazibao” or big character style, sheets covered in political speeches written in traditional calligraphy. Almost every year since 2010, this private museum has held special exhibitions around the world to showcase particular items and new additions to their collection in an effort to ensure that China’s recent history is not forgotten and to highlight the importance of propaganda art as a cultural, social and political tool. Just recently, the museum came into possession of hundreds of Shanghai Lady posters dating back to as early as 1910, which provide an even earlier glimpse into the use of propaganda in Chinese culture. Located in the Changning District on the west side of the river, this collection is a must for those interested in contemporary Chinese history, or for anyone looking for a unique souvenir.

4. Jiading District

The Ancient Town center of Jiading is accessible by boat. Chloe_cpc. CC BY-SA 2.0

This northwestern suburb was a thriving hub back during the Song Dynasty (1127-1279 AD), well before Shanghai grew to be the urban metropolis it is today. Despite its surroundings being full of factories and industrial production plants, Jiading District remains an enclave of cultural museums, ancient pagodas and scenic canals. For those looking for more contemporary attractions, Jiading is home to the Shanghai International Circuit, where the Chinese Formula 1 Grand Prix takes place. The district’s best sites, however, date back hundreds of years: Jiading’s Ancient Town was built during the early Qing Dynasty (1636-1912) and the main Confucian Temple from 1219 is one of the best-preserved in the world. The former can be toured by boat and explored via the many canals that run through the streets, the perfect way to step back in time and learn why the neighborhood was designated a “water town”. This area is also the birthplace of the world famous and universally loved Xiao Long Bao steamed soup dumplings, in addition to a variety of other unique local bites. For a day away from the crowds and noise of Shanghai’s city center, Jiading is the perfect getaway.

5. Hinichijou

Crowds gather to buy coffee from the friendly bear paw. China Daily. CC BY-NC-ND 2.0

On December 3, 2020, a cafe opened on Yongkang Road in Shanghai’s Xuhui District, an area highly popular among locals for its abundance of cafes and for its Instagram-worthy aesthetic. This establishment, however, was something special: through a literal hole in the gray wall, a furry bear paw emerged, pointing to the QR code hanging just beneath and encouraging passers-by to place their orders. This adorable gimmick was actually only part of the attraction, as customers soon found out that the cafe exclusively employed baristas with disabilities through the China Disabled Persons’ Federation, because it wanted to support and help provide employment opportunities for those with disabilities. The store’s opening coincided with the International Day of People With Disabilities and was then operated by two hearing impaired baristas. Since then, it has received incredible amounts of public support and has been able to open nine branches across the city, despite the general hardship caused by the COVID-19 pandemic. The chain has also furthered its mission by visiting with other similar businesses it has inspired across Southeast Asia and providing training to their employees as well. Its next project is to open another location in partnership with a local school for the visually impaired, before expanding overseas as well. For a quick coffee break with a conscience, Hinichijou is the place to go.

6. People’s Park Marriage Market

Umbrellas are laid out with marriage resumes on top. Fiona Mai. CC BY-SA 2.0

It was not long ago that all marriages in China were arranged. While most of the country has moved on, the weekly Marriage Market in the centrally located People’s Park is a striking remnant of such traditions. From noon till 5pm every weekend, parents gather and display their children’s marriageability resumes by balancing them on umbrellas or posting them on fences, highlighting their salaries, career prospects, and property ownership in the hopes of attracting an interested party. Photos are rarely included on the resumes, and there is little information about physical appearance or personal interests. Visitors are welcome to observe the proceedings without participating themselves, although be sure to respect the fact that for many of these parents, this is their last hope at finding partners for their children before they are deemed “leftover” men and women by society. According to unspoken tradition, it is customary to be married by the age of 25 and to be starting a family within two after that years, after which remaining single is often stigmatized or heavily questioned. For a one-of-a-kind immersive cultural experience, the Marriage Market is an event to see.

Tanaya Vohra

Visual Protest: The History and Legacy of the Berlin Wall Art

August 31, 2023

The Berlin Wall spent decades as a symbol for ideological division, but has become an outlet for personal expression.

Thierry Noir’s heads at the East Side Gallery. Paul VanDerWerf. CC by 2.0.

Visually, the East Side Gallery in Berlin, Germany is a vast edifice of technicolor concrete. Although only fragments of the original 96 mile (155 kilometer) wall remain, the sections that still stand are striking. From the flashes of aquamarine and mustard yellow featured in Thierry Noir’s iconic cartoon heads to the dark spray paint outlining miscellaneous graffiti, the murals are simultaneously imposing and welcoming. But the gallery's importance runs deeper than its appearance; decades of history and political turbulence echo through its fallen walls.

When fully intact from 1961 until 1989, the Berlin Wall separated East Berlin from West Berlin; both halves were located well within East German territory, making West Berlin a NATO exclave in the Eastern Bloc. Prior to the wall's construction, emigration to West Germany by skilled workers, professionals, and intellectuals threatened East Germany’s economy. A few years after World War II, East Germany was constituted as a communist state controlled by the Soviet Union, while West Germany was formed out of the French, British and American occupation zones. The wall became a physical symbol of the Cold War: a division not only of Europe geographically, but also the global ideological divide between communism and democracy.
In the midst of longstanding Soviet de facto control of East Berlin, in 1985 then-Soviet leader Mikhail Gorbachev introduced the reform policies of glasnost (“openness”) and perestroika (“restructuring”), referring primarily to freedom of expression and economic reform, respectively. This decision, coupled with the growing number of protests sweeping across multiple Soviet republics, created a breaking point that eventually erupted into mass action. On November 9th, 1989, East German spokesman Günter Schabowski announced that East Germans would be free to travel into West Germany, starting immediately. In reality, travel was supposed to commence the following day, with regulations to prevent complete freedom of movement. But it was too late for regulations, and the crowds of people from East Germany immediately began to climb and even physically break down the wall.

The fall of the Berlin Wall, 1989. Gavin Stewart. CC by 2.0.

Because of the long period of repression associated with the barrier, one might assume that civilians who had lived on either side would want nothing to do with it ever again. But in 1990, just months after the Wall fell, some of the most famous murals of the Berlin Wall were painted (some of the preserved graffiti, including Thierry Noir’s brightly-colored heads, was created even before the Wall fell). With a newfound sense of freedom, people found their voice through art and created pointed political, social and cultural commentary.

Arguably the most famous of these works is Dmitri Vrubel’s “My God, Help Me to Survive this Deadly Love.” Commonly referred to as “Fraternal Kiss,” Vrubel’s piece depicts East German leader Erich Honecker and Soviet leader Leonid Brezhnev kissing. The kiss between the two socialist leaders was a rare, but not unknown greeting — often socialist leaders would kiss each other thrice on each cheek after embracing and, at special events, would kiss on the mouth to demonstrate solidarity and brotherhood.
The Brezhnev-Honecker mural was based on a real photograph of the event taken by Regis Bossu eleven years earlier, in 1979. The kiss took place after an economic agreement between the USSR and German Democratic Republic (the formal name of communist East Germany). The image was famous when it was originally taken, but Vrubel’s artistic rendering took its notoriety to new, unforeseen heights.

“My God, Please Help Me Survive this Deadly Love.” Andy Hay. CC by 2.0.

Although Vrubel’s iconic piece is perhaps the most recognizable mural, much of Berlin’s wall art would not have been painted without the help of Kani Alavi. Alavi was an organizer of the East Side Gallery, which invited artists from around the world to paint and express their reflections on the Cold War ideological divide and personal experiences. Alavi’s own visual contribution, “It Happened in November,” is a synthesis of personal experience and political commentary. The Berlin Wall consisted of two distinct walls separated by a gap for maximum security, and Alavi’s mural depicts thousands of faces walking between them on the day it came down. Alavi had viewed this scene personally from his apartment overlooking Checkpoint Charlie, which was the best-known border crossing between East and West Berlin.

“It Happened in November.” Fraser Mummery. CC by 2.0.

Alavi also directly helped inspire another of the most notable murals, the “Berlin Wall Trabant” by artist Birgit Kinder. Supposedly, Alavi told Kinder to paint anything she wanted on the wall, but she hesitated for a moment. It was only when she looked at her East-German manufactured Trabant car that she felt inspired. She began painting her car forcefully bursting through the wall, symbolizing the city’s escape from Soviet rule. Close observers will note that the license plate reads “Nov 9-89,” which is the day the Berlin Wall fell.

“Berlin Wall Trabant.” Judith. CC BY-NC 2.0.

When the wall fell, and the Soviet grip on East Germany loosened, creativity flowed. Artists visually translated their newfound freedom onto a canvas that had once held them captive. Their murals symbolized the reclamation of power by East Berlin’s formerly oppressed inhabitants. And with this somewhat-unlikely canvas they were able to recount their lived experience and depict the conflict and compromise of the world around them, concretely living in vivid color, forever.

Manaus: Capital of the Amazon

August 17, 2023

My visit to the Amazon’s largest and most contradictory city.

City of Manaus. Dennis Jarvis. CC BY-SA 2.0

My first guide in Manaus explained that when people think about a city in the middle of the Amazon, they expect the city to be wild and see snakes crossing the streets. The reality of the Amazon’s largest city, located in Brazil’s Amazonas Province, is completely different. This past May I spent one of the most memorable weeks of my life in this province. During that time, I did go deep into the Amazon, where I saw a tree Boa, a large snake. But, I also visited a beautiful pink opera house, a fish market, antique bookstores, fancy restaurants, the Presidente Figueiredo Waterfalls, and even the Ponta Negra Beach, which was lined with tall buildings that seemed to be hotels, just like any beach town you’d find in the US.

Me, in the Amazon outside of Manaus. Jeremy Giles

This city of over two million people borders both the Rio Negro and the Amazon River, and is the access point to reach many communities deeper within the Amazon jungle. It is also one of Brazil’s largest industrial centers, including businesses that have nothing to do with the rainforest it borders. In my experience, Manaus is a city unlike any other, and thrives off defying expectations.

The History

Manáos, Eduardo Ribeiro Avenue in 1909. National Library of Brazil, public domain.

Manaus was originally founded in 1669 as a Portuguese fort. By 1832, the fort grew into a town, and received its modern name, Manaus, meaning “mother of the gods,” from the indigenous Manaós tribe. Only 16 years later Manaus expanded into a city. Two years after that, it was officially declared the capital of the Amazonas province.

After the invention of cars in the late 1800s, Manaus became the center of the rubber boom due to the almost complete South American monopoly of rubber trees, which are native to the Amazon basin. This completely changed the city, as it became viewed as the gateway to the Amazon, and became home to many incredibly wealthy rubber barons. These ridiculously rich families had more money than things to spend it on, and began to focus on architecture, shipping materials all the way from Europe to build huge beautiful masterpieces, many of which still exist today.

By the early to mid 1900s the rubber boom had almost completely left Brazil, being replaced by rubber trees brought to Southeast Asia. This spelled financial ruin for Manaus, which sank into desperation. This poverty continued until 1967, when Manaus was named a duty free zone, making it cheap for companies to move there. This allowed Manaus to grow into the economic hub it is today, currently being a Brazilian access point for over 600 global companies.

The Amazonas Theatre

Amazon Theatre in Manaus. Rafael Zart. CC BY 2.0.

The Amazonas Theatre opened in 1897, carrying with it Manaus’ nickname “the Paris of the Tropics.” The opera theater was built almost entirely using materials imported from Europe, topped with a beautiful dome of Brazil’s flag.

At the time of its opening, the opera theater was in many ways a sign of all that was wrong in Manaus. It was built for Manaus’ uber-wealthy, using the money they made by exploiting the local population to harvest the rubber they sold abroad. Moreover, even the few who could enter the opera house valued the status it brought them more than the opera itself. The most expensive seats in the opera house were those that were the most visible to the public. Ironically, these spots actually had the worst view of the stage itself.

Today, the opera house, which remains a top opera house in the world, has come a long way from its imperialistic origins. Most performances at the theater are free, and those that aren’t are very affordable. The performances feature both local artists and acts from around the world. Moreover, to encourage all to join, a large screen is often set up in the plaza in front of the opera house, allowing as many people to see the performances as possible.

The Ports

Manaus market from the river. archer10 (Dennis). CC BY-SA 2.0.

In many ways, the center of Manaus is its ports. Manaus is bordered by both the Rio Negro and the Amazon River, allowing for a large number of ships and ferries, both for tourists and locals. These boats can take you deeper into the Amazon or out of it entirely, allowing ocean freight ships to transport goods directly to Manaus.

In addition, much of Manaus’ culture and nature revolves around the ports. A little over a half hour by boat from Manaus’ ports is the meeting of the waters, a line where the Rio Negro meets the Amazon River. This line is clearly visible with the water looking different and being a clearly different temperature on either side of the line.

On land, about a five minute walk from Manaus’ largest port is an amazing market “Mercado Municipal” that, every morning, is filled with different fresh fish, including some of the biggest fish in the world. My personal favorite of these huge fish is Tambaqui, a cousin of the Piranha and one of the most delicious meals I’ve ever had. The fish is so big that its ribs are visible and alone big enough for a meal. In fact, I’d go even further to say that, to me at least, the ribs are the best part.

Amazon Rainforest

While Manaus itself is a big city, much of the land around it is still forested and filled with natural wonders. If you go an hour or two downstream on the Rio Negro, you will be greeted by intensely green trees on both sides which, in the right conditions, are perfectly reflected by the black water below you. In the wet season this water will rise several meters, causing many of the trees to jut out of the water itself. Just to note, climate change has caused the water to rise more now than in the past, however, the water rising multiple meters is a natural phenomenon and one that actually helps the trees survive.

When you’re surrounded by the trees you may start to be greeted by animals almost immediately. Howler and spider monkeys can be seen leaping from tree to tree, sometimes carrying their babies, and boas can be found curled up on branches. The water itself is dotted with caiman and different kinds of fish. The lucky will get to see pink river dolphins breaching the water’s surface.

A waterfall at El Presidente Figueiredo. Jeremy Giles

There is plenty to see around Manaus and in Manaus on land as well. Most notably, about an hour and a half drive from Manaus are the Presidente Figueiredo waterfalls. These waterfalls are all stunning to look it, with fast moving water from the Rio Negro. However, they do vary in size. The first waterfall I was unable to approach because it was too big. The second one was small enough that I was able to climb behind it.

The Rio Negro, or Black River in English, gets its color from the decaying vegetation that falls into it. Beyond giving the river a wondrous dark hue, this decay causes the river to be relatively acidic. While it is perfectly okay for humans to swim in the water, the same cannot be said for mosquitoes, who almost completely avoid the river. This is amazing for Manaus, which borders the Rio Negro, as the city has relatively few mosquitos despite being in the middle of the Amazon.

The Technology Industry

President Lula visiting a motorcycle factory in Manaus. Brasil em Mapas Brazilmaps. CC BY 2.0

While much of Manaus’ economy does revolve around the Amazon, the tech industry is actually one of the city’s largest. Brazil’s largest research and development Institute, the Sidia Institute of Science and Technology, is based in Manaus. Moreover, Manaus is known for its extensive motorcycle industry, producing over 1.4 million motorcycles in 2022.

Manauara Shopping Center. Naldo Arruda. CC BY 2.0

I’ve spent the past few days trying to think of what, out of everything I saw, best represents Manaus. I believe I’ve found it, but, like everything else with the city, it’s not what you would expect.

The Manauara Shopping mall is a huge and beautiful structure, with big glass windows lining the outside, seeming to connect the building to the world beyond its walls. It has more than 200 stores, which range from those selling wooden crafts and acai from the Amazon to big brands on national and international levels. The moment I remember most is when, after exploring the first three levels of the mall, my family decided to visit the basement food court. Going down the escalator, we saw the same glass windows from the front of the building, except this time, they were facing inwards. We walked towards a door under the hulking glass and through it outside into open space. I looked up and spiraling branches blanketed with green leaves towered above me, almost blocking my view of the night sky. I breathed in the air deeply, letting go of a tension I didn’t know I was holding. Looking back, in this moment, in a rainforest in the middle of a mall, I truly experienced Manaus most.

Jeremy is a Writing Seminars and International Studies major at Johns Hopkins University. He is an avid writer and the Co-Founder of Writers’ Warehouse, Johns Hopkins’ first creative writing group. He is an advocate for Indigenous rights, and studies how Indigenous philosophies can be used to help prevent climate change. Using his writing, he hopes to bring attention to underrepresented voices in today’s world.

On the Table: Sharing food Around the World

August 17, 2023

The tradition of sharing meals is a custom that transcends national borders and bridges generational divides.

Marketplace in Seychelles. UN Women. CC BY-NC-ND 2.0

Breaking bread has long served as a sacred means of creating community and connection. In the 18th century, the term for a “good friend” in Dutch translated to a “table friend.” Today, such an exchange of friendship is still an elemental ingredient to mealtimes. The settings vary across the globe, from pre-set dinner tables to park picnic benches, floor mats to swiveling bar stools. About a quarter of the world’s population does not sit nightly at a table, but rather gathers around a mat or stands balancing on a wooden plank in the midst of the mud in a market. But, no matter the gathering space, one aspect remains core to nearly all eating traditions: the manner in which food is shared is a ritual that celebrates the communal over the individual.

Sharing small bits of food is a human habit that anthropologists believe connects to a primal need to forge alliances through a sense of communal equality. Such a need has led to a kind of communal snacking culture, in which groups share nibbles of food. From spreads of hummus and babaganoush, to tapas of cheese and olives, to steamed buns of dim sum, communal eating habits around the world exemplify how the best meals are always shared.

Ethiopia

Communal eating is a central part of Ethiopian food culture and is aided with the use of Injera, a thin sourdough-risen flatbread with a spongy texture. Most Ethiopian meals are eaten with one’s hands and from a communal plate placed in the middle of the table. The left hand is considered unclean, and so the right hand is used for eating and ripping apart pieces of Injera to scoop up food. Traditionally, meals begin with the oldest at the table taking the first bite, a custom to indicate respect to elders.

The communal significance of food in Ethiopia is represented through a practice called the gursha: a form of hand-feeding, in which one will place a small morsel of food into another’s mouth. The gesture is usually first given to elders or guests at the meal and signifies a sign of respect, hospitality, and friendship.

Foods to try

Kitfo is a native Ethiopian dish made with raw beef. Similar to an American hamburger, kitfo uses Injera rather than a bun. The dish originates from the Gurage region of Ethiopia and is believed to have emerged from the Orthodox Christian tradition as a means of eating meat to break the fast after Lent.

France

French bakery. Hannah Wilson. CC BY-ND 2.0

French food culture is defined by a sense of intention and relaxation, with meals often lasting for hours at a time. The care characteristic of French culinary culture is exemplified in its “gastronomic meal.” The meal, which became a part of UNESCO’s List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity, refers to a kind of dining tradition in which a large meal is prepared to bring family together. Elements of the gastronomic meal include its use of fresh local ingredients, its careful selection of dishes that represent a diverse spread of the country’s regional cuisines, an emphasis on food and wine pairings, an aesthetic table setting, and group conversation throughout the dinner. The meal is often a foundational element to birthday and wedding celebrations and follows a set structure. Starting drinks, or apéritif, begin the meal, followed by up to four courses including a starter, a main dish of fish or meat with vegetables, and a sweet dessert paired with cheese. The meal typically ends with a drink referred to as digestif. Digestifs are characterized by a high alcohol content and rich flavor, and include liquors such as Génépi, Cognac, Armagnac, and Calvados.

Foods to try

While French food is popularly characterized by its flaky baguettes, croissants, and delicate pastries, cuisine varies significantly depending on the region. Cheese and ciders are a popular part of dinners in Normandy, while ratatouille is a family staple in the country’s Mediterranean south.

The Loire Valley boasts bountiful grapes, cherries and berries that are used to make rich liquors and sweet fruit tarts, while the Basque Country pairs fish and meats with spicy herbs and sauces.

Mexico

In Mexico, community plays a central role in both the production and consumption of food. In an interview, renowned Mexican chef Margarita Carrillo Arronte described Mexican food as “a women's thing.” Arronte’s statement highlights a cultural tradition in which communal cooking and the sharing of recipes serve as a means of bringing women together, and a conduit for intergenerational knowledge. Dating back to pre-colonial times, the majority of cooks in Mexico have been women. After the arrival of the Spanish in the 16th century, a mix of indigenous, African, and Spanish cooks worked in conquistadors’ kitchens, where they developed a unique culinary blend. Today, some of the top Mexican restaurants have been opened and run by women chefs, the likes of which include Alicia Gironella de Angeli, Patricia Quintana, Monica Patiño, Martha Ortiz Chapa and Carmen 'Titita' Degollado. The State of Michoacán is especially known for its rich culinary life that centers the talents of indigenous female cooks, a status that got the state selected as the host for the upcoming VII Gastronomy Forum, in October 2023.

In 2010, Mexican food was inscribed on UNESCO’s Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity, and recognized for its sense of community and collective participation. Local’s use of the milpa system allows for more sustainable farming practices. The system uses intercropping to allow for multiple species to grow in the same place. When it comes to eating practices, singular utensils such as grinding stones and mortars are used rather than forks and knives.

Foods to try

Corn is a prime ingredient of Mexican food, and serves as a base for a diverse range of dishes. Elote, or corn on the cob, is a typical Mexican street food drizzled in mayonnaise and lime juice, while atole uses corn as its base for a hot beverage that can be sweetened with vanilla, cinnamon, and guava. Mexican tamales which date back to the Aztecs, use corn masa as a dough that can be filled with beans, meats, chillies, or vegetables. The most popular use of corn comes in the form of tortillas, a thin pancake shaped flatbread that serves as a base for beans, meats, and fresh vegetables.

Korea

The philosophy of yak sik dong won, or “food is medicine,” lies at the heart of Korean cooking. Korean food culture revolves around a key sense of community and an appreciation of food as nourishment for the soul as well as the body. The sharing of banchan, or side dishes, serves as a key example of a communal eating culture. Banchan side dishes include vegetables, seafood, eggs, meats, and kimchi. Rich in fiber and probiotics, kimchi captures Korean culture’s understanding of food as medicine. The dish consists of fermented vegetables including cabbage and radish, mixed with seasonings such as ginger, garlic and spring onions.

Korean meals draw upon the concept of bapsang: the idea that a table is set up for shared enjoyment. Balance plays a key role in Korean meals, and spicy foods are often paired with more delicate and nuanced flavors, such as broths and rice.

Foods to try

Mandu is a popular Korean snack with traditional roots. Now a common example of Korean street food, the dumpling’s origins date back to the 14th century. It is believed that the Korean royal court frequently ate mandu that mimicked the shape of sea cucumbers as a way to represent the bounty of nature. The philosophy at the core of Mandu’s origins extends to its modern use as a staple of the Lunar New Year to represent future prosperity. The preparation of Mandu also incorporates the communal elements of Korean cooking, as families join together to fold the dough into craftful pouches for meats and vegetables.

Jessica graduated from Barnard College with a degree in English. Along with journalism, she is passionate about creative writing and storytelling that inspires readers to engage with the world around them. She hopes to share her love for travel and learning about new cultures through her work.

Frozen Glory: Inside the Eskimo-Indian Olympics

August 17, 2023

From cultural preservation to sheer athletic spectacle, the World Eskimo-Indian Olympics are a highlight of the Native Alaskan calendar.

An athlete competes in the blanket toss event at the WEIO. KNOM Radio. CC BY-SA 2.0

In the early 1960s, two non-Indigenous pilots who regularly made trips over Alaska’s rural communities kept observing the celebration of an interesting cultural event. This sporting event, as they later came to realize it was, dated back far beyond living memory and honored strength, resilience and endurance through a series of events meant to test the skills necessary to live in such an unforgiving environment. Given that Alaska had just recently become an American state in 1959, the early 60s saw the gradual encroachment of mainstream American culture into its more remote outlying communities, posing a serious threat to local traditions and practices. After the pilots shared their concerns with various groups in Fairbanks, the World Eskimo-Indian Olympics (WEIO) was officially born in 1961 and drew Native participants and spectators from around the Fairbanks area to participate on the banks of the Chena River.

The WEIO has grown significantly since then, with thousands of people traveling to watch the best of Alaska’s Indigenous athletes compete in the Big Dipper Ice Arena for four days each July. Aside from a minimum age limit of 12 years, there are no age categories for any of the events, which means that several generations of the same family can be seen competing against each other. It is also common for older and more experienced competitors to coach and advise the younger athletes during the competition: rather than trying to beat one’s opponents, the larger goal is to compete against and better oneself.

Athletes Sean O’Brien (left) and Chris Kalmakoff (right) compete in the Eskimo stick pull event. Erich Engman. CC BY-NC-ND 2.0

Many of the events, however, are still extremely competitive, and involve intimate face-offs between athletes. The Indian Stick Pull, for example, calls for athletes to wrench a short greased stick from their opponent, an event meant to replicate the grip strength necessary when trying to keep hold of a freshly caught fish by its tail. The Ear Pull is a contest of stamina to demonstrate the athletes’ ability to withstand pain, a valued trait in the often cruel conditions of the Alaskan North. In this event, string is looped around the opposite ears of two athletes as they face each other as they pull away in a tug-of-war with their ears until one cedes the match.

Other events are competed individually, but with just as much rigor and excitement. The Greased Pole Walk, as its name suggests, tests the balance needed for crossing creeks on slippery logs by having contestants walk as far as they can barefoot along a greased wooden pole. A favorite among both competitors and spectators alike, the Two-Foot High Kick requires competitors to jump vertically and kick a suspended ball with both feet before landing and maintaining their balance. Hundreds of years ago, villages along the coast would perform these kicks as a way to communicate to the village that a whale or some other game had been caught, and to prepare themselves to assist the hunters upon their return.

Athlete Ezra Elissoff competes in the Two-Foot High Kick final at the 2021 WEIO. Jeff Chen. CC BY-SA 2.0

Despite the popularity of basketball and ice hockey, the traditional sports seem to be gaining popularity among young children and teenagers, and are also contributing to the difficult task of preserving and passing on Native Alaskan culture. Miley Kakaruk, a 15-year-old athlete of the Inupiaq tribe of Northwestern Alaska, says that she imagines her ancestors competing in the same events centuries ago, vying to be chosen for their village’s next hunting party. Because each event is so heavily rooted in their history, younger competitors are able to learn the customs and stories that so heavily influence the culture and lifestyle of their people.

Equally important is the power of these games to forge a connection between athletes and society. Historically, studies have shown that Native Alaskans suffer from some of the highest rates of alcoholism and drug abuse in the US. A number of the people that the WEIO Board works with and recruits are young adults who are at risk of or actively battling addiction. According to Gina Kalloch, a board member and ex-athlete, discovering their culture through such a fondly practiced social tradition has allowed many of these people to develop a sense of pride in themselves and their culture, and helped to reorient their lives.

Native Alaskan women compete in the Miss WEIO Cultural Pageant alongside the athletic events each year. Danny Martin. CC BY-SA 2.0

While this year’s edition of the Olympics already took place between July 12 and 15, highlights of both the sporting events and the accompanying Miss WEIO Cultural Pageant are freely available on the internet.

Tanaya Vohra

5 Reasons to Visit Andorra

August 17, 2023

Here are some ways to enjoy the beauty and history of one of Europe’s smallest countries.

Andorra’s capital, Andorra la Vella. Tiia Monto. CC BY-SA 3.0.

Located between France and Spain, Andorra is a country of the Pyrenees mountains. The official language of Andorra is Catalan, yet many residents also speak Spanish, Portuguese, and French. With an area of 180 square miles and a population of fewer than 80,000 people, Andorra is one of the smallest countries in Europe. Though small, Andorra has much to offer, with sights and activities that make a visit well worth it. Here are five things to do when visiting Andorra.

1. Skiing

Grandvalira ski resort. Llull~commonswiki. CC BY-SA 2.0.

Due to its mountainous location, Andorra is home to great skiing locales. The country has three main ski areas, which are Grandvalira, Vallnord, and Ordino Arcalís. Grandvalira is the largest of the three resorts, with 130 miles of slope, most of that at the intermediate level. Vallnord has a ski lift connecting the villages of Arinsal and Pal, and you can try Speed Riding there, which is a mix of hand gliding and skiing. Ordino Arcalís is a smaller and less crowded resort. With its northern location, it produces the most snow of all of the resorts, and therefore has a longer ski season.

2. Visit the Mirador Roc del Quer

Mirador Roc del Quer. Roberto-g-rovi. CC BY 3.0.

At 6,417 feet, the Mirador Roc del Quer lookout provides a great view of the Pyrenees mountains. With 12 meters of the walkway being detached from the ground, it creates the illusion of walking through the scenic view. At the end of the Mirador Roc del Quer, there is a statue called “The Ponderer” by artist Miguel Ángel González. This statue depicts a man calmly sitting on a beam looking at the view, unbothered by the drop from where he is sitting. Whether it be for sightseeing or picture-taking, the Mirador Roc del Quer is worth visiting when in Andorra.

3. Tour La Casa de la Vall

La Casa de la Vall. Zinneke. CC BY-SA 3.0.

Built in 1580, La Casa de la Vall was originally built as a manor house for the Busquets family. From 1702 until 2011, it served as headquarters for the Consell General, which is Andorra’s parliament. Today, it serves as a monument that is open to the public. The first floor once held the Criminal Court, as well as the Hall of Lost Steps, a room with walls made of 16th century paintings. This floor also holds the Cupboard of Seven Keys, which has a key to each of the seven Andorran parishes, along with significant historical documents. The second floor of La Casa de la Vall was once an attic, but it was renovated to become a multipurpose area, often used for exhibitions.

4. Hike Rec del Solà

Within its mountains, Andorra offers many hiking opportunities. Beginning at the San Ermengol plateau, Rec del Sola is a five mile hiking trail connecting to the Rec del Obac trail. With an altitude of 1,122 meters, this trail passes through orchards and gardens, where local Andorrans grow vegetables. Towards the middle of the trail, there is a picnic area, where hikers can take a break and enjoy the view. Most of the trail is shaded from the sun, making it a great option for the summer season.

5. Visit the Museo Postal

The Museo Postal, or Postal Museum, exhibits the history of Andorra’s postal services. By foot and by ski, the museum shows the complete history of delivery methods in Andorra over the years. There are 50,000 Andorran stamps displayed, along with exhibits that show how these stamps were made and the process of mail delivery in Andorra today. The museum offers guided tours to guests, but visitors can also explore on their own with an audio guide.

Between the Cracks in Turkey: Exploring the Small Towns of the Crossroads of the World

August 2, 2023

Step off the beaten path and discover these six small towns in Turkey brimming with artifacts, natural wonders and rich history.

The beachtown of Kaş. Tutky Çetinel. CC BY 3.0.

One of the most renowned and well traveled cities in the world, Istanbul, peaked at 16 million tourists last year. The mosque- and artifact-riddled city attracts crowds that make it, for lack of a better word, a travel destination. Yet, some of Turkey’s most beautiful landscapes, edifices and history lie outside of its metropolis. Trek off the beaten path and journey to these six small towns in rural Turkey.

1. Safranbolu

Overview of Safranbolu. Ray Swi-hymn. CC BY-SA 2.0.

Once a trading center, this historic town is now home to many artifacts scattered throughout its ~390,000 square miles and among its three historical districts: Cukur, Kirankoy and Baglar. Some of its characteristic antiquities found in the Old Town include tombs, baths, mosques, fountains, and houses. Dive further into exploration with Safronbolu’s Old Mosque, the Old Bath, and the Suleyman Pasha Medrese, an Islamic religious institution, built in the 14th century. This UNESCO World Heritage site is worth discovering.

2. Kas

Rugs on a building in Kas. Julian Mason. CC BY 2.0.

This delightful beach town in Turkey’s Antalya Province doesn’t resemble the tourist-filled streets of the region’s eponymous city. Kas’s pleasant turquoise waters and lively color make the town stand out from Antalya’s busy, fast-paced life. While outdoor activities abound in this town — for example, canyoning is open to all travelers and day-long outdoor attractions like the Xanthos and Patara antique cities — a vibrant nightlife along the beautiful beaches awaits all visitors. Jazz clubs and rock bars alike welcome you to the wondrous city of Kas.

3. Iskilip

Rock tombs of Iskilip. Aerdemsenturk. CC BY-SA 4.0.

Just a 3-hour drive away from Ankara, Iskilip is another UNESCO heritage site on our list. This castle town’s epicenter is the Iskilip Castle, bordered by the town’s verdant mountains. While the Iskilip Castle is itself a site of historical importance, its base contains many Roman era tombs that are the real draw for many visitors. Iskilip is also a town of craftsmen; copper smiths, basket weavers, blacksmiths, cobblers, wood carvers and more set up shop in between houses, in houses, and everywhere in the town.

4. Midyat

Mor Sarbel Church. Senol Demir. CC BY 2.0.

In between the narrow cobblestone streets of Midyat lie ~410,000 square miles of artifacts, a structural chronicle of the past. The town, an hour drive from the Mardin province, houses unique sand-colored buildings. Among them is a series of religious edifices like the Ulu Cami, or mosque, with its characteristic minaret that towers over the surrounding buildings, the Mor Barsarmo Kilise, a church, and the Syrian-Orthodox Mor Sarbel church. Perhaps interesting, however, is Matiate, the official name of Midyat’s underground sites. Matiate is the largest cave system in the world, and is worth exploring along with the other wonders of Midyat.

5. Amasya

This small town, much like others in this list, is a site of historical gravity. Three historical structures frame and define Amasya. First, the Amasya Castle, located at the top of Mount Harsena, is the center of this riverside city. While the climb to reach the castle can be steep, the view of Amasya’s green river and quaint houses has no peers. Second, the Amasya Museum is home to 24,000 artifacts from Anatolia including great stoneworks credited to the Hittites, Romans, Byzantines and Ottomans. Lastly, the Pontic Kings’ Rock Tombs, sepulchers carved into limestone rock formations, remind visitors of the once great Hellenistic Kingdom of Pontus, a stalwart enemy of Rome.

6. Camlihemsin

A river in Camlihemsin. Serra Kiziltas. CC BY-SA 4.0.

Located near the Black Sea region of Turkey, Camlihemsin is the smallest of the towns listed here, with an area of ~340,000 square miles. Much of the appeal of this town is its flora and fauna: with stately trees and grass-covered mountains, the town is perfect for hiking and mountain climbing. Hilltops embraced by surrounding clouds beautify the landscape. Waterfalls such as the Palovit Selalesi, a frequent reward for long hikes, also grace the town. Of course, one particular large historical artifact — the Zilkale medieval castle located in Fırtına Valley — caters to nature-naysayers.

Escape the Heat with Cold Foods from Around the World

August 2, 2023

See how diverse culinary traditions have responded to scorching weather.

As summer enters its dog days, it is not uncommon for people to seek sanctuary within the cool confines of air conditioned rooms. Another strategy trades atmospheric meddling for culinary delights — beating the heat through the sheer pleasure of cool, refreshing dishes. While the temptation of piping hot meals, freshly baked and steaming, is undeniable, the relentless heat can dampen our enthusiasm to partake in such feasts. This is precisely where the enchanting world of chilled cuisine steps in, ready to satiate our taste buds when summer overwhelms the northern hemisphere. Join us as we delve into this captivating culinary realm of cold delights.

1. Gelato—Italy

When it comes to chilly delights, there's a particular taste that's impossible to miss — sweetness. Picture yourself relishing an assortment of ice cream flavors, skillfully combined with frozen fruits, cream, and sugar, once you've completed an exciting adventure at a theme park that leaves your T-shirt saturated with sweat. Scientifically, it has been established that the consumption of sweetness amplifies dopamine levels, thus it's only logical for people around the world to use frozen confections to conquer the scorching heat.

The origins of relishing icy delights on sweltering summer days can be attributed to ancient times, when Arabians devised a method of combining snow with syrups to combat the scalding temperatures. It was through the travels of an Arab trader that this innovative recipe found its way to Italy, where it underwent further refinement with the addition of dairy, fruit juice, and sugar. This culinary transformation ultimately led to the creation of Gelato, a frozen delight that has become a firm favorite among Italians, its name simply meaning “frozen” in Italian.

Gelato with multiple flavors. Bruce Stokes. CC BY-NC-SA 2.0.

While Gelato has a long history, dating back to the 16th century when an Italian inventor first served it at the table of the Spanish King, its global recognition came about during the industrialization of food production, including ice cream, during World War II. It was during this time that Gelato gained widespread popularity. In 1940, a breakthrough occurred with the invention of a new gelato machine by technician and designer Bruto Carpigiani. This innovation transformed gelato from a homemade, artisanal treat to one of the most beloved deserts worldwide.

To truly experience the authentic taste of Gelato, it is important to appreciate the differences between it and similar frozen delicacies you may be more familiar with. In contrast to American ice cream, good Gelato contains less milk fat and incorporates less air, resulting in a denser and creamier texture. Additionally, although the desert is known for its vibrant colors, it is worth mentioning that Gelato made with fresh fruit tends to have a more natural hue. For instance, a pistachio Gelato should have a delicate brown shade instead of a bright green color.

2. Kakigori—Japan

Matcha Awayuki Kakigori. City Foodsters. CC BY 2.0.

In Japan, frozen sweet desserts take on a unique form in the dish known as Kakigori. These towering mounds of shaved ice, generously adorned with a variety of fruit syrups like strawberry, melon and lemon, and garnishes that can be whole deserts in themselves such as mochi and sweetened red beans, offer a delightful crunchiness that sets them apart from Western ice cream. Resembling freshly fallen snow in texture, Kakigori has become an essential part of the Japanese summer dinner table.

The history of Kakigori can be traced back a thousand years, as it finds mention in classic Japanese literature. According to the renowned author Sei Shonagon, in a time before refrigeration, people would diligently gather fresh snow and ice during the winter season, carefully preserving it in specially designed storehouses. They would then transform this frozen treasure into delightful icy treats during the scorching summer months. What was once a highly valued luxury has in modern times become a spoonful of joy accessible to the masses. Today, Kakigori is commonly served in bowls, allowing for a generous amount of toppings and syrups to be piled high, eagerly savored with a spoon.

3. Air Mata Kucing—Malaysia

Longan Drink. Insatiablemunch. CC BY 2.0.

Alongside enjoying delectable, frozen treats, why not uplift your spirits on a summer day with a refreshing cup of frozen drink? Drinks like Tinto de Verano and Aguas Frescas offer a delightful twist to beat the heat. Take, for example, Air Mata Kucing in Malaysia, a beverage that has gained acclaim as the planet’s sixth most delicious drink according to CNN.

This drink becomes an absolute must-try when the scorching weather increases the risk of infectious diseases. What makes it even more appealing is its combination of fantastic taste and nutritional value. Air Mata Kucing is prepared using dried monk fruit as a natural sweetener, fresh winter melon that is peeled and grated, rinsed dried longan pulp, dried snow fungus/white fungus, sugar, and water.

The ingredients used in Air Mata Kucing, namely monk fruit and longan, offer a multitude of health benefits due to their anti-inflammatory and antibiotic properties. When the winter melon is grated, it lends a smooth and refreshing sensation as the ice melts tantalizingly on your tongue. This unique combination of flavors, coupled with the drink's mild sweetness and cooling effect, has propelled Air Mata Kucing to become one of the top-selling drinks in Malaysia.

Stall selling Air Mata Kucing situated in Petaling Street. Neoluap. CC BY-NC-ND 2.0

In particular, a bustling stall situated in Petaling Street, Kuala Lumpur, has gained a reputation for serving this beloved drink, attracting eager patrons who happily queue up for a chance to savor its refreshing taste.

4. Lassi—India

For those who hold a deep appreciation for dairy-based delicacies, Lassi from India presents itself as an unmissable experience — an age-old smoothie that has stood the test of time. Among its various renditions, Mango Lassi takes center stage as a traditional Indian drink hailing from the regions of Punjab and Multan.

The roots of Lassi stretch back to ancient Indian texts dating as far as 1000 BC, where its blended yogurt concoction was celebrated for its gentle effect on the stomach and its digestive benefits. The recipe for lassi remains elegantly simple: a silky, chilled fusion of yogurt, combined with water, fruit, sugar, and a blend of spices tailored to your taste. While lassi has found its way into the menus of Indian and Pakistani restaurants worldwide, it remains an invigorating remedy for those toiling under the sweltering North Indian sun, where the mercury can surge above 100 degrees.

5. Gazpacho—Spain

Gazpacho in summer. Marco Verch Professional photographer. CC BY 2.0.

Not in the mood for something sweet? Don't worry, the world also offers a variety of delectable savory options to keep you cool and satisfied! During hot summer days when appetite may be diminished, traditional hot meals can be replaced with an array of dishes that are best enjoyed cold. Imagine indulging in a refreshing cold soup packed with juicy vegetables and crisp flavors — an appetizing treat for your taste buds.

Gazpacho, widely known as the “Spanish chilling soup,” stands as an iconic cold dish that perfectly embodies the essence of summer. Originating from the Andalusian region, an autonomous community in Spain, Gazpacho is traditionally enjoyed chilled, featuring a blend of olive oil, peppers, vinegar, onions, garlic, bread, and water. This refreshing soup, often adorned with diced vegetables or croutons, and occasionally accompanied by hard-boiled eggs or delectable morsels of Spanish serrano ham, provides a satisfyingly cool respite during the scorching summer months. With its diverse range of regional flavors, Gazpacho's true essence lies in its key ingredient—ripe, juicy tomatoes that are readily available to the public. Serving as a culinary symbol of Spanish gastronomy, this beloved dish not only tantalizes the taste buds but also offers a much-needed source of hydration under the blazing Mediterranean sun.

6. Naengmyeon—Korea

Mul-naengmyeon, Chilled Buckwheat Noodle Soup. KOREA.NET. CC BY-SA 2.0.

On hot days, it is worth noting that many hot dishes also have a refreshing cold variant. One such example is Naengmyeon, a chilled noodle dish that is served with actual ice to make sure it stays cool. Tangy, spicy and delightfully chewy, this noodle dish originated as a delicacy in northern Korea, before the country’s twentieth century division. Naengmyeon comes in different forms, including a version served in a watery radish kimchi broth with ice, another featuring savory buckwheat noodles submerged in a cold and clean-tasting broth and a third made with chewy noodles overlaid with a spicy sauce. The noodles are typically garnished with sliced cucumbers, Korean pears, pickled radishes, boiled beef and boiled eggs, adding a burst of flavors and textures. Interestingly, while one may crave cold dishes during the summer, the ancient belief in “Food being medicine and medicine being food” led to the creation of cold noodles, originally consumed during winter. These noodles had a cooling effect, which in turn was thought to stimulate the body's own heat generation.

7. Poke Bowl—Hawaii

Poke Bowl at The Baron, Castle Hill. Surtr. CC BY-SA 2.0.

Finally, for city dwellers and those seeking to maintain a healthy lifestyle, the Poke bowl needs no introduction — a beloved and straightforward dish featuring diced seafood, typically tuna, marinated in a delightful mixture of soy sauce and sesame oil, then tossed with onions. With roots in Hawaii, the term “poke” is simply the Hawaiian verb for cutting something into cubes,” reflecting the traditional technique used to prepare this culinary delight. Freshly chopped tuna and various other fish have long been cherished by Hawaiian fishermen, providing nourishment for themselves and their community. Given the islands’ location in the middle of the Pacific Ocean and the vast distances separating them from other substantial land masses, seafood represents an indispensable source of protein for the Hawaiian community. As Poke has gained immense popularity beyond its native islands, the number of Hawaiian restaurants listed on Foursquare, including those offering poke, doubled between 2014 and mid-2016. The subject of rapid evolution, the Poke bowl has seen delightful variations emerge. Creamy avocado, tangy ponzu sauce, savory teriyaki sauce, earthy mushrooms with a kick, zesty sriracha sauce, aromatic cilantro, and refreshing pineapple or cucumber — all these additions contribute to the savory diversity of this increasingly popular dish.

Whether it is the refreshing feel of ice or the savory delights of gazpacho soup, the invention of cold food remains a testament to human creativity. Using these culinary marvels to conquer the heat demonstrates our ability to transform even the most scorching weather, which lies beyond our control, into occasions of pure delight in which people can gather and revel in the pleasure of shared food experiences. Moreover, the preservation and spread of cold food exemplifies how technological progress has allowed us to pursue food not only as a means of nourishment, but also as a source of pleasure and culinary artistry.

Hope is a Chinese international student at Wake Forest University in North Carolina studying sociology, statistics, and journalism. She dreams of traveling around the globe as a freelance reporter while touching on a wide range of social issues from education inequality to cultural diversity. Passionate about environmental issues and learning about other cultures, she is eager to explore the globe. In her free time, she enjoys cooking Asian cuisine, reading, and theater.

Why You Should Visit the Makah Tribe on the Coast of Washington State

August 2, 2023

Visiting this region offers a unique opportunity to immerse yourself in a rich Indigenous culture that dates back thousands of years.

View from Cape Flattery Bluff. Manuel Bahamondez H. CC BY-NC-ND 2.0

The Makah Tribe's reservation, resting on the extreme northwest tip of Washington State, boasts an ethereal landscape and thriving cultural practices. The land and the Tribe's community inspire and nurture ongoing engagement with nature and rich family connections. Despite its remote location, accessible by a single, winding route, the rich culture and natural beauty of this community offer a magical experience for curious travelers.

The reservation sits at the farthest point north and west in the continental United States, cradled between gentle hills covered by tall Douglas Fir, Sitka Spruce, and Western Red Cedar trees on one side and the rugged Pacific coastline on the other. In the wake of a century-long fight against colonization the Makah continue to protect their sovereignty through the teaching of their Indigenous language, the celebration of cultural rituals and artifacts in their local museum and schools, and the preservation of the tribe’s traditional and sustainable reliance on native plants and animal species. The Tribe welcomes visitors from near and far to reflect on the reservations’ deep culture and lush natural landscapes. Hiking, surfing, and other outdoor activities are easily accessible from this scenic location and cultural hub. Visiting the Makah Tribe offers a unique opportunity to immerse yourself in a rich Native American culture that dates back thousands of years. The stunning natural beauty surrounding the Makah Tribe, including picturesque beaches and rugged cliffs, provides a breathtaking backdrop for your visit.

Sunset on First Beach. Jaisril. CC-BY-NC-ND 2.0

Generation after generation, the fabric of the Tribe’s community is woven through its cultivation of the natural world and artistic endeavors. Today, a significant number of Makah individuals thrive as artists, making a living through the sale of intricately crafted goods which are sold to galleries, shops, and collectors across the globe. A major source of income comes from the exportation of these artistic goods and is a key element of the Tribe’s livelihood. Carvings and masks in particular are a distinct feature of Makah art and have garnered the attention of tourists and art sellers alike for generations. The pieces often feature animals that hold deep cultural importance to the Makah. Whales, salmon, halibut, ravens, eagles, otters, herons, and wolves are commonly depicted in these designs. Each carving tells a story, chronicling the rich narratives of the origins and struggles which are passed down through generations within the community and amongst families.

The Makah are highly skilled woodworkers, capable of fashioning a wide array of items from the trees that thrive in their surrounding forests. While western red cedar is most frequently used, you can also find artists working with alder, yew, and spruce. Carvings range in size, from intricate jewelry to grand ocean-worthy canoes and towering totems. The incorporation of nature imagery and the sourcing of natural materials reinforces and honors the Makah’s reverence for their lands and waters.

Example of Makah style art. A. Davey. CC-BY-NC-ND 2.0

Long before the advent of written language, the tribe used dance, song, and storytelling to receive and retain intergenerational knowledge. These melodic traditions are shared and reinforced on various occasions, including weddings, naming ceremonies, memorials, and other family or community celebrations. The Makah reservation museum hosts a compelling collection of artifacts, information guides, as well as a garden with plants labeled with the native language and traditional uses.

For instance, the tribe once maintained five, thriving and permanent villages: Waatch, Sooes, Deah, Ozette and Bahaada. Their ancient way of life began to shift in the late 1770s, when Spanish explorers first settled in and around Neah Bay in 1779. The Spanish and other European groups were eager to exploit the natural resources of the Makah's land and brought in non-Indigenous modes of technology, among the most important of which were guns. The exploitation of the land's natural resources resulted in extinction of native plants and animals (e.g., otters and whales). Not only did the Europeans bring new technologies, they brought diseases, such as smallpox and measles, which plagued the less resistant indigenous communities. The Tribe's traditional ways of life were disrupted, and its inter-generational familial and domestic structures were gravely impacted as a result of death and the loss of land ownership. In the winter of 1855, Makah leaders and the American government signed theTreaty of Neah Bay, which stipulated that the Tribe give up ownership of much of its land, with the exception of rights for certain Indigenous practices, such as whaling, seal hunting, and fishing. The Makah were forced to cope with changes and shift to a more European lifestyle. In exchange, the United States government promised to provide public education and health care. To this day much of the tribe’s coastlines and forests are still under shared jurisdiction with the National Parks Service and the United States Government.

Makah Whale Hunting Ceremony. U.S. Forest Service- Pacific Northwest Region. CC0

As with so many Indigenous tribes across the country, the Makah have resisted the pull of corporate behemoths endeavoring to exploit the natural resources and cultural traditions that rightfully belong to the tribes. These tribes have fought to ensure their histories are not just archived but are alive and flourishing. One of the best ways to protect the ongoing strength of these communities is to visit these places and engage respectfully with the work and lifestyles of the Indigenous peoples, and to listen to and learn their histories.

A rising junior at Vassar College in New York State, Avery is a Media Studies and French double major. She is an avid reader, writer, and traveler. She loves to immerse herself in new cultures and is an avid explorer who loves being in nature. She is passionate about climate and social justice and hopes to use her love of writing as a catalyst for positive change.

On Top of the World: A View From Mount Everest

July 28, 2023

Every year, hundreds brave frost, cliff and hypoxia to ascend the world’s tallest peak.

Climbers going up Mount Everest, Nepal. Sam Levin. CC BY 2.0

In 1953, Sir Edmund Hillary made history by being the first to ascend Mount Everest. His journey was a significant departure from the origins of rock climbing, the earliest evidence of which is found in the remains of cliffside dwellings by Native Americans and archaeological burial caves in Mustang, Nepal.

Today, mountaineering has become a popular competitive sport and means of exploring the natural world, with about 800 people attempting the dramatic climb to Everest’s summit each year. Expeditions are reliant on Nepal’s weather, with the best season typically occurring in April and May, before the monsoon, when avalanches are less common. September can also be a good month, but by October the onset of winter storms restricts climbing once again.

The ascent up Mount Everest utilizes a technique called siege climbing, in which climbers establish a series of camps along their route and sleep at the camp just below them, a technique that helps climber’s bodies more easily acclimate to the elevation.

Sherpas on Everest

Sir Edmund Hillary was not alone in his groundbreaking climb. In a fact often ignored in the histories, he was accompanied the whole way by Tenzing Norgay, a Nepali Sherpa mountaineer. As a mountain dwelling people of Nepal, Sherpa’s are known for their knowledge of the mountainous region, and have a long history of maintaining and cultivating the land. In a pattern that dates back to Norgay’s first ascent with Hillary, Sherpas today serve as guides to climbers on Mount Everest, while also working to maintain and safeguard the path.

In addition to acting as guides, Sherpa often provide life-saving assistance to straying climbers. In June 2023, a Nepali sherpa guided a Malaysian climber to safety after discovering the mountaineer in the thick of the “death zone”, facing temperatures dipping below -30 degrees Celsius.

The feats and history of Nepali climbers were extolled in the documentary 14 Peaks, which followed Nepali mountaineer Nimsdai Purja on his journey to summit all 14 of the world's 8,000-meter peaks in just seven months. Purja champions the Sherpa’s bravery and the irreplaceable role they play in maintaining Everest’s safety and accessibility for climbers, as well as their knowledge of and connection to the land.

The Costs of Ascension

The price of climbing Everest has grown steadily with its increasing popularity, and prices in 2023 range between $30,000 to $160,000. The staggering cost includes gear, food, supplemental oxygen, and base camp tents. The support of Sherpa’s is also an important consideration, with the cost of assistance ranging from $2,000 to $5,000.

The financial toll of ascending Mount Everest is commensurate with its physical brutality. The climb up is marked by harsh conditions. Altitudes above 25,000 feet (7,600 meters) are known in the climbing community as the “death zone”, and at 29,029 feet (8,848 meters) high, Mount Everest puts climbers in the thick of life-threatening danger. Some of the greatest threats at such altitudes relate to a lack of oxygen, or hypoxia, which leads to rapid breathing and an increased heart rate. High-altitude cerebral edema, or HACE, can also threaten climbers as the body responds to hypoxia with increased blood flow to the brain, leading to swelling that can bring on hallucinations, a loss of coordination, and the potential of a coma or death induced by brain herniation.

The cost of climbing Everest extends beyond the financial and physical impacts into ecological catastrophe. The world’s tallest summit is now derisively known as the “world’s highest garbage dump.” During the peak season, nearly 500 people make the hike to Base Camp on a daily basis, a physical toll that adds to the erosion of the natural land. Additionally, in the weeks during which they embark to the mountain’s summit, each climber creates roughly 18 pounds or eight kilograms of trash, which include tenting supplies, oxygen containers, and feces.

Mount Everest. Frank Kehren. CC BY-NC-ND 2.0

Clean Climbing

The Nepali government, alongside environmental agencies, has been working to preserve and clean up the mountain. In 1976, the Sagarmatha National Park was created as a means of protecting the mountain’s natural terrain and wildlife. It received recognition and protection as a United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization (UNESCO) World Heritage site in 1979.

In 2019, the Nepali government launched a campaign to clean up 22,000 pounds or 10,000 kilograms of waste from Everest. Local authorities now require that each climber pays a deposit of $4,000, which is refunded after the individual returns back from their climb with an equal amount of waste as they are predicted to generate during their climb, approximately 18 pounds of garbage per person.

Along with local authorities, third party organizations are also working to preserve the future environmental health of Mount Everest. Launched in 201, the Mount Everest Biogas Project aims to create a solar powered system that turns human waste into fuel.

While irresponsible expeditions can lead to increased pollution, the action of climbing is in itself a kind of homage to the environment. Ascending Everest forces climbers to come face to face with the potential harm that human disruption can have on the environment, while reinforcing the importance of environmental protections and regulations.

With the future environmental health of natural wonders such as Mount Everest at risk, climbing and engaging with nature in an ethical, responsible, and sustainable way can create an important connection between people and the environment. An ascent to the world’s tallest peak can be not only personally enriching, but vital to public perceptions of and future investment in the environment.

A Sustainable Guide to the U.S. Virgin Islands

July 28, 2023

The U.S. Virgin Islands offer a gateway into a world of rich marine life, lush vegetation, and a complicated global history.

Trunk Bay Overlook in St. John, U.S. Virgin Islands. Blake Carroll. CC0 1.0

Nestled in the northeastern area of the Caribbean Sea, some forty miles east of Puerto Rico, the U.S. Virgin Islands are characterized by their tropical beauty and rich coastal life. The U.S. territory consists of a bevy of small, minor islands and three large, more significant ones: St. Croix, St. John and St. Thomas, the latter of which hosts the capital, Charlotte Amalie.

Following a struggle over control of the islands between European powers, Denmark claimed St. Thomas in 1666 and St. John in 1684, and eventually St. Croix in 1733. Under Danish control the islands became a center for sugarcane production, and a major player in the African slave trade until slavery was abolished in 1848.

The United States purchased the Danish West Indies in 1917 for $25 million dollars, acquiring what are now the U.S. Virgin Islands. Tourism boomed after World War II to become the islands’’ primary economic activity, with nearly 3 million people visiting the islands every year.

St. Croix

Known for its world class scuba diving and rum making, St. Croix offers opportunities for travelers to explore its environmental wonders and colonial history. One popular destination is the old town of Christiansted, which served as a mercantile center to support the island’s sugar-based economy in the 1700s. Travelers can explore the old Danish colonial architecture, including Fort Christiansted, which was built in the 18th century to ward off pirates. Alexander Hamilton spent his adolescence on St. Croix, and guided tours allow travelers to explore the island’s history while mapping out Hamilton’s early life. Popular sites on the tours include Christiansted Wharf, the international trade post where Hamilton arrived on the island as a child, and St. John’s Anglican Church, where Hamilton’s mother was buried.

Camping offers travelers a great opportunity to explore a new environment in a low-impact and environmentally conscious way. Mount Victory Camp on St. Croix is one such site working to create a sustainable option for travelers to enjoy St. Croix. The camp includes eco-lodges built from storm-felled tropical hardwoods and powered by renewable energy. Workshops are also on offer for visitors to learn more about the natural environment, with activities ranging from bow-making and wild food preparation to shelter building and naturalist studies.

On St. Croix, travelers can take advantage of activities offered through the St. Croix Environmental Association. The Association supports environmental advocacy, conservation and educational programs that help the public to learn more about the island’s natural resources. It also provides educational opportunities for kids, where they can engage directly with nature through snorkeling clinics, eco fairs, and forest field days.

The Buck Island Reef National Monument was established in 1961 and lies off the northern coast of St. Croix. The Monument covers some 30 square miles, including the entirety of Buck Island and surrounding barrier reefs. It is a popular snorkeling spot, and visitors can catch a glimpse of the rich marine life supported by the reefs, the likes of which include butterfly fish, barracuda, and reef sharks. Travelers can end their Buck Island adventure at Turtle Beach. The beach’s soft currents allow for easy swimming and, true to its name, an opportunity to glimpse sea turtles.

St. John

Virgin Islands National Park. Larry Syverson. CC BY-SA 2.0

Home to 20 square miles of protected national park land, the island of St. John is a paradise of tropical vegetation. Established in 1956, the Virgin Islands National Park covers approximately three-fifths of St. John’s mainland and includes waters surrounding the island, as well as parts of Hassel Island and the harbor of Charlotte Amalie on St. Thomas. The park, which was named a UNESCO World Network Biosphere Reserve in 1983, is home to some 800 different species of plants, ranging from cactus and agave to mangrove swamps and bay rum plants. In addition to its vegetation, the park also hosts more than 20 species of tropical birds as well as dozens of migrating species.

Off the coast of St. John, the Virgin Islands Coral Reef National Monument includes roughly 22 square miles of protected coral reefs and marine life. The monument, which was created in 2001, is a “no-take” zone, which effectively bans fishing in the area in an attempt to protect damaged reefs and overfished species.

With its extensive area of protected national parkland, St. John offers numerous camping sites for travelers. Along with those provided through the National Park, Maho Bay Camp is another popular site in which visitors can take advantage of eco-friendly lodgings. The camp began as 18 tent cottages in the heart of the National Park in 1976, and is now made up of 114 hand built tents. The lodgings are built on raised wooden pilings in order to prevent erosion of the forest floor and reduce runoff that can feed into and harm coral reefs. The camp provides visitors opportunities to further explore the island by offering activities such as sailing excursions, scuba diving, snorkeling and boat tours.

Maho Bay Beach is also one of the most popular places on the island for travelers to glimpse sea turtles. Sea turtles are a protected species, and it's important that travelers in no way touch or disturb the animals. Visitors can, however, marvel at the turtles underwater from a safe distance at Maho Bay Beach, with snorkeling gear rented by nearby stores such as Reef2Peek.

St. Thomas

Charlotte Amalie. Wayne Hsieh. CC BY-NC 2.0

First established as a Danish colony in 1672, St. Thomas serves as a gateway to the rest of the Virgin Islands and home to the territory’s capital city, Charlotte Amalie. Slavery was first introduced to St. Thomas in 1673, and Denmark’s use of the island to export sugarcane, along with its neutral status during the Napoleonic Wars, made it a prominent trading center and the largest slaving port in the Western Hemisphere.

The impacts of slavery in the Virgin Islands are still felt by local communities today. Emancipation Day is celebrated on July 3rd to commemorate the abolition of slavery on the island in 1848. The holiday is a moment of celebration, memorialization, and reflection on the islands’ history of slavery. On St. Thomas, Emancipation Day activities are hosted by The Pan African Support Group, which creates programs to generate education around the islands’ history while supporting their continuous social and political growth. The group is also working to create a genealogy project to help islanders trace back their familial roots and origins, dating all the way back to1838.

Walking tours in Charlotte Amalie give travelers the opportunity to learn about St. Thomas’ history. A self-guided tour includes sites such as Fort Chirstian, which was built by the Danish in 1680 to protect against invasion, and the Emancipation Gardens, which commemorate the 1848 emancipation of slaves by Governor Peter von Scholten.

Another popular spot for travelers are the 99 Steps. The staircase was built using bricks brought over from Denmark on sailing ships to make the island’s hilly terrain more accessible. Climbing the steps leads travelers to another important site on the island: Blackbeard’s Castle. Now a National Historic Landmark, the structure was originally built to provide a vantage point from which to spot enemy pirate ships. The castle is currently under renovation following damage from Hurricane Irma.

As one of the most developed and frequently visited of the Virgin islands, St. Thomas faces greater challenges of creating sustainable travel options.

One of the most popular ways to explore St. Thomas is through Virgin Islands EcoTours, which offer travelers opportunities to learn more about the island from professional naturalists through kayaking, snorkeling and hiking trips.

While exploring the Virgin Islands’ beaches and marine life, travelers should be aware of their choice of sunscreen and the effects it has on the environment. Sunscreens that contain oxybenzone, octinoxate and octocrylene can prove toxic to the oceans and are prohibited on the islands. Travelers should opt for non-nano mineral sunscreens containing zinc oxide and titanium dioxide, which have been deemed environmentally safe.

Making environmentally conscious food choices at restaurants can help lower human impact on St. Thomas’ environment. With local species such as Caribbean lobster and conch, as well as reef fish such as grouper, snapper and grunt under threat from overfishing, it is more sustainable for travelers to opt for open water alternatives such as dorado, wahoo and barracuda.

Every May, AgriFest offers an opportunity to learn about the island’s local food production and farming community. The agriculture and food fair uplifts local vendors while celebrating Caribbean culture and cooking traditions.