Italian Night Life Thrives in Abandoned Buildings

Thanks to self-managed social centers, Italians have found a space to enjoy concerts, dinners, movie nights and more

Concert at XM24. Zeroincondotta. CC BY-NC-SA 2.0 

Since the 1970s, self-managed social centers have offered a place for Italians to gather as a community. Usually located on the outskirts of cities, these centers are established and operated entirely by locals. They are often formed as a direct response to social issues such as lack of affordable housing, drug addiction and marginalization. Members of the community occupy buildings that have fallen into disuse, such as schools, apartment complexes, forts and even farms. 

CSOA Forte Prenestino. boklm. CC0 1.0

The legal status of these centers varies, and some face eviction by authorities despite their value to the community. Many of the centers take a strong political stance, defining themselves as anti-fascist, anti-sexist, anti-racist and anti-capitalist. These spaces serve as important refuges for members of the community and a place for diverse groups of people to meet and collaborate.

Concert at XM24. Zeroincondotta. CC BY-NC-SA 2.0 

One of the most famous of these self-managed social centers was XM24, or ExMarket, of Bologna. It emerged during a period of repression as the mayor of the city engaged in a campaign against social housing and squatter movements. The center established itself in several abandoned spaces, including a former fruit and vegetable market from which it took its name. It offered a number of services to the community, including a cafe, a bike shop, a vegetable garden, live concerts, a gym, and a dormitory for migrants, refugees and the houseless. It was run by a general assembly of local volunteers.

XM24 Graffiti, Against those who close our spaces, let’s ignite our rage. Zeroincondotta. CC BY-NC-SA 2.0

In 2013, XM24 was able to reach an agreement with the local government, allowing the center to operate independently and utilize the abandoned spaces. However, the agreement expired in 2017. Members of the community attempted to protest the eviction in a struggle with the city that lasted two years, but in 2019 the space was evicted and bulldozers arrived to clear it out. As of 2024, the center no longer exists. 

Leoncavallo Spazio Pubblico Autogestito. Robertino Radovix. CC BY-NC-SA 2.0 

XM24 was not the only self-managed center to be evicted by the government, but many centers have still found a way to thrive. The Leoncavallo Spazio Pubblico Autogestito of Milan still offers jazz concerts, stand-up comedy, dinners, English lessons and more to locals. It is currently open Thursdays through Sundays in the afternoon and evening, although they face eviction on June 18th, 2024 by the bailiff and the property’s lawyers. 

Daniele Sepe & Aldolà Chivalà. L’Asilo. CC BY-NC-SA 2.0 

Je So’ Pazzo is a self-managed center in the Marterdei district on the outskirts of the city of Naples in a former asylum for the criminally insane. When it was occupied in 2015, it was managed by the Penitentiary Police. Volunteers collaborate with local associations to house, collect clothing for and distribute meals to the houseless. Their services include medical clinics, psychiatric support and migrant aid. They also offer a number of recreational activities, such as Naples’ only indoor rock climbing wall, a football pitch, a gym, a theater, a bar, social dinners, concerts, and so much more. It is still active and open 24 hours a day, six days a week. Like most places in Italy, it is closed on Sundays.

Concert at CPA, Firenze. GothEric. CC BY-SA 2.0

The Centro Popolare Autogestito Firenze Sud and LaPolveriera SpazioComune are both self-managed centers located in Florence. Like other social centers, they offer a variety of recreational activities during the days and the evenings, such as ceramics classes and concerts, as well as important social services for the community.

Whether you are looking to participate in a ukulele workshop, enjoy a dinner and movie, discuss politics with local Italians, or let loose at a heavy metal concert, self-managed social centers are the perfect place.

---

Rebecca Pitcairn

Rebecca studies Italian Language and Literature, Classical Civilizations, and English Writing at the University of Pittsburgh. She hopes to one day attain a PhD in Classical Archeology. She is passionate about feminism and climate justice. She enjoys reading, playing the lyre, and longboarding in her free time. 

How Geoffrey Chaucer Inspired Pro-Migrant Literary Social Action in the U.K.

In the U.K., writers and refugees collaborate to end indefinite detention.

Westminster in the sunlight, the destination of the Refugee Tales walk. Aswin Mahesh. CC0. 

The United Kingdom’s immigration policy allows it to detain migrants indefinitely while the government resolves their immigration status. The U.K. is the only country in Western Europe with this law; other European nations have a maximum time limit to detain people, usually ranging from about a month in France to six weeks in Germany. In 2015, a group of writers and activists in the United Kingdom combined forces to create the Refugee Tales—a short story collection and an annual walk to raise awareness about indefinite detention for migrants in the U.K. The Refugee Tales seeks to put a 28-day time limit on immigration detention.

The walk mimics the style of fourteenth-century poet Geoffrey Chaucer’s “The Canterbury Tales.” In his poem, a diverse group travels from London to Canterbury, telling stories throughout the journey to entertain each other. The Refugee Tales takes a broader scope, engaging people worldwide for social change. 

The Ellesmere Manuscript of The Canterbury Tales. Rob Corder. CC BY-NC 2.0 

As a part of the Refugee Tales, established writers partner with those impacted by the U.K.’s indefinite detention model. The writer transcribes their narratives. Those sharing their stories may work within the immigration system as social workers or interpreters. Oftentimes, they are migrants who have experienced indefinite detention. Writers share these stories with walkers during the evening—as Chaucer’s characters did with their tales—and compile them in short story collections, read them aloud in videos, and share them in news outlets. 

The written work created between author and refugee lies at the heart of the movement. Storytelling works to raise awareness about the problems migrants face on their journey to the U.K. and in these detention centers. 

Scottish author Ali Smith, who wrote “How to be Both” and won the Baileys Women’s Prize for Fiction, is the patron of The Refugee Tales. She described storytelling as “an act of profound hospitality.” Transcribing the stories refugees tell elicits “sympathy and empathy” from listeners. 

Smith wrote “The Detainee’s Tale,” telling of a young man who arrived in the U.K. as a victim of human trafficking. After escaping, he found a community at a church that advised him to reach out to the Home Office—the U.K.’s ministerial department responsible for security and immigration—for help.  

“You do it,” Smith writes as the young man says. “You write to the Home Office. They come. They arrest you. They put you in prison for six months because the passport you’ve got is the wrong kind.”

Many British literature scholars view Chaucer as the “Father of English poetry.” “The Canterbury Tales” is a staple in many British literature classes. Telling refugees’ stories in the style of a quintessential British text is a political statement, making these refugees a part of the cultural canon and saying they deserve a place in the United Kingdom.

TO GET INVOLVED:

The Walk: The Refugee Tales will host their annual walk this year from July 6-10 from Edenbridge in Kent to Westminster in London. You can buy tickets to participate in the walk. 

The Stories: For easier yet impactful involvement, listen to or purchase the books full of the U.K.’s refugees’ tales.

---

Annie O’Brien

Annie is a third-year student at George Washington University studying English, Creative Writing, and History. From Philadelphia, she is an avid reader, pop-culture enthusiast, and traveler. She’s always eager to talk about her adventures abroad and domestically, whether it's telling about the time she hitch-hiked in Bavaria or offering recommendations for the best bookstores in Key West. She hopes to become a published author one day. Enjoy more of her writing on her Substack.

Noon Against Putin: Russian Citizens Continue Navalny’s Mission

In Russia, protests in opposition to Putin’s rule continue despite the death of Alexei Navalny.

The late Alexei Navalny. Mitya Aleshkovskiy. CC BY-SA 4.0

On February 16, 2024, Alexei Navalny, outspoken critic of Vladimir Putin and major activist in Russian domestic politics, died in a Russian prison. On March 17, 2024, believers in Navalny’s vision took the next step in opposition to the president.

Despite his death, Navalny’s anti-Putin rhetoric continues to echo through the streets of Moscow. On the final day of the 2024 Russian presidential election, groups of silent protestors gathered at polling places across the country at exactly twelve o'clock noon in a demonstration dubbed “Noon Against Putin.” The plan had been endorsed by Navalny prior to his death, and the call was taken up afterwards by his widow, Yulia Navalnaya, via a video on YouTube in the days before the election.

The demonstrators voiced their disapproval of the unfair elections by either writing in Navalny’s name on their ballots, invalidating their vote, or simply leaving without voting at all. Around the world, Russian citizens also formed silent queues at embassies in Berlin and London, standing in solidarity with the demonstrators in Siberia and Moscow. Many also took to social media to decry what they called an unfair and rigged election, denying the Kremlin’s repeated claims that their president is always democratically chosen.

Protestors outside of a polling place in Moscow. Konopeg, CC0

Navalny was one of the few Russian citizens willing to outright oppose Vladimir Putin’s rule. He was arrested several times for leading protests against corruption in the Kremlin and eventually joined a centrist political party to work towards fair and just elections, among other humanitarian improvements in the daily lives of the Russian people. Navalny’s death in a Russian prison in the Arctic sparked outcry worldwide, with many world leaders accusing Putin of direct involvement.

A procession outside the Russian Embassy in Berlin. A.Savin, Free Art License

“Noon Against Putin” was carried out with the knowledge that some arrests were inevitable. The demonstration ended with at least 60 citizens imprisoned and 15 criminal charges filed. Not only did the people gathering at the ballot boxes understand that their demonstration would not change the election, but they also came in spite of the laundry list of potential punishments from the authorities. The threats of imprisonment, and possibly death in captivity, hang over the heads of any Russian citizen who speaks out against the Kremlin. But the community that Navalny has built seems unafraid of these consequences. Even though Putin was still reelected, this brief and solemn display of unity among the Russian people shows that even without their vocal leader, the anti-Putin masses are still here, and are still willing to show their disapproval.

The Kremlin, and thus Vladimir Putin, still holds complete control over Russia and its government, but the forward momentum that these protestors represent, no matter how small it may appear now, suggests a potential shift in the balance of power. In the past, Russian citizens have had little choice but to put their heads down and keep moving forward. Today, Navalny’s memory has spurred those same citizens to take action towards a vision of change.

---

Ryan Livingston

Ryan is a senior at The College of New Jersey, majoring in English and minoring in marketing. Since a young age, Ryan has been passionate about human rights and environmental action and uses his writing to educate wherever he can. He hopes to pursue a career in professional writing and spread his message even further.

Exploring Iceland’s Westfjords

Delve into the natural beauty and memorable experiences awaiting in Iceland's overlooked northwestern region.

A small town on a fjord in the Westfjords, Iceland. RaulHudson1986. CC0.

The serene and volcanic landscapes of Iceland have attracted adventurous travelers for many years, especially the popular Golden Circle and Ring Road routes. Yet, both paths exclude one of the most scenic areas of the country, the Westfjords.

The Westfjords of Iceland is a sparsely populated, panoramic region with little geothermal activity that many travelers often overlook. Despite this neglect, there are many amazing experiences here to add to your Icelandic adventure.

1. Dynjandi Fjallfoss Trail  (Arnarfjordur) 

Dynjandi Fjallfoss in Arnarfjörður, Iceland. Jacqueline Macou. CC0.

This majestic waterfall is the largest in the region and is frequently referred to as the Westfjords’ most beautiful attraction. It is part of a series of seven waterfalls that unravel down the peak, originating from the waters of Lake Stora-Eyjavatn. The sound that emanates from these falls mimics thunder, and it’s understood why the waterfall’s name, Dynjandi, translates to “thunderous” or “booming." 

From the parking lot, you can hike your way up the seven waterfalls, but take caution as it can be quite slippery and mossy. The average person can do this hike in around 15 minutes, but it is recommended to take your time to enjoy each one. At the peak, you can revel in the mist of the magnificent waterfall, try the fresh glacial water, and look out over the extensive views of the fjord upon your descent. 

2. Museum of Everyday Life–Hversdagssafn (Isafjordur) 

Museum guests in the sensory lab in Ísafjörður, Iceland. Courtesy of Hversdagssafn.

This museum provides an intimate perspective on the everyday life of Icelanders that is largely overlooked in mainstream tourism of the island. Founders Vaida and Björg refer to Hversdagssafn as more of an art project under the guise of a museum, one that aims to collect human connection. From exhibits on family histories told through donated books from the old church, short films about the winter seasons and a local distaste of the Northern Lights to heartfelt reflections on being an immigrant in Iceland, this museum is sure to give you a fresh perspective on life in the Westfjords and the pillar of community using all five of your senses. 

3. Hike to Hornstrandir (Hornstrandir)

Hiker crossing the river in Hornstrandir on a trek to Hornbjarg cliff. Kristyna Sindelkova. CC0.

Hornstrandir (​​227-sq-mi) is an uninhabited area of the Westfjords that is only accessible by boat during the summer between June and August. It’s frequently called “Europe’s last wilderness” and deemed a “hiker’s paradise.” All of the homes on the peninsula have been restored since the last farmers left in 1952. 

After establishing Hornstrandir as a protected Nature Reserve in 1975, the area’s 250 species of flowering plants and 30 species of nesting birds have thrived. Up to six million birds nest on the cliffs during the summer, with species including the Atlantic puffin, Arctic terns, black guillemots and penguins. It is the only sanctuary for Iceland’s prized native mammal, the Arctic fox. As the region is uninhabited and the animals are protected, the foxes have no fear of travelers and will often raise their kits near campsites. Polar bears have also been known to drift on ice to Hornstrandir from Greenland, though this occurrence is rare. 

The area’s tundras, cliffs, flower fields and ice prove to be exciting hiking routes for self-sufficient adventurers. You can enjoy the vast region through multi-day hikes or day trips where you can eat traditional cuisine at the Old Doctor’s House. You can also do multi-day kayak tours that weave in and out of the fjords and camp overnight in the wilderness or at sleeping bag accommodations. Guided tours are highly recommended, and booking in advance is required. 

4. Tjöruhúsið (Ísafjörður)

Town of Isafjordur in the Westfjords of Iceland. Gestur Gislason. CC0.

Immerse yourself in this Icelandic fish buffet, only open for dine-in during the summer season, for a communal dining experience with unlimited access to a range of unique platters and local music. It is a family-owned and run restaurant that has no menu, as the restaurant caters to the catch of the day. The atmosphere is warm, welcoming and familial. Plates vary from traditional Icelandic fish stew, to thorskkinnar (cod cheeks), monkfish and more. The restaurant also serves as a meeting space for public events within the community. Reservations for the lunch and dinner serving times during the summer seasons are highly recommended to ensure a seat at the delicious buffet-style gathering.  

5. The Icelandic Museum of Sea Monsters (Bíldudalur)

A cautionary sign was posted along the road in Iceland. Dendron. CC0.

Take a step back in time and discover old Icelandic lore and legend of the creatures that may or may not have plagued the Nordic seas. This region is known across Iceland for its historic reputation for prolific sea monster activity. At the Icelandic Museum of Sea Monsters, visitors can witness the extraordinary creatures of the deep vividly portrayed through an immersive and interactive blend of language, visuals and videos. Eyewitness testimonies are paired with scholarly insights into the realm of sea monsters, as on-screen narratives and academic perspectives infuse the space. Moreover, an array of relics and artifacts, serving as tangible remnants, color the museum, offering compelling evidence of their existence. The museum also has impressive interactive maps that draw on all kinds of monster legends from around the world.

Additionally, as you visit the museum, a highly recommended pitstop nearby is Reykjafjardarlaug Hot Spring, a geothermal pool just outside of the town for an ideal rest in warmed geothermal waters. 

6. Whale Watching

Whale watchers aboard a RIB boat in Iceland. Courtesy of West Tours. CC0.

The waters of the Westfjords are home to many arctic species, including up to 20 species of whale. Here you will likely encounter dolphins, humpback whales, beak whales, minke whales and orcas. These polar water tours are frigid and icy and thus can be experienced on more relaxed boat tours. However, if you are looking for a more adventurous and open-air whale-watching tour, you can opt for an open RIB boat safari where you can feel the pulse and spray of the ocean while capturing up-close views of marine life. Most tours depart out of Isafjordur or Holmavik and last two to six hours. Almost all tours guarantee incredible whale and nesting bird sightings. 

Whale watchers experiencing a whale sighting in Iceland. Courtesy of West Tours. CC0.

---

Julz Vargas

Julz is a student at Wellesley College studying Anthropology and Spanish. She grew up in Los Angeles, CA, and has studied all around the world in places such as Costa Rica, Greece, Iceland, and Spain. She is passionate about employing writing as a tool to explore human connection and diversity. Julz aspires to foster cross-cultural connections through community-based research, amplifying inclusive and diverse media about global cultures, foods, and people, to encourage individuals to engage more wholly with the world.

Buried Tragedy: The Slums Beneath the Streets of Edinburgh

A long-buried mini-city beneath the streets of Edinburgh sheds light on the lives of its 19th century poor

The Edinburgh Vaults. fw42, CC BY 2.0

The city of Edinburgh is known for its gorgeous architecture, rich history and fascinating culture, and over many years has become a prime destination for tourists visiting Scotland. But beneath the Royal Mile lie hidden catacombs and an unsettling history of poverty and crime.

Despite being used as a prime spot for chintzy “ghost tours”, the underground city (referred to varyingly as the Edinburgh Vaults and South Bridge Vaults) has a rich and tragic history. It was constructed back in 1788 as part of the South Bridge Act, which was an attempt to make the rapidly-growing city more traversable. The bridge wasn’t only for travel, however; the arches under the bridge were home to tenement buildings designed to turn the area into a marketplace. The nearly 120 individual vaults became taverns, workshops and storage units for merchants.

Storage in the Edinburgh Vaults. Kjetil Bjornsrud, CC BY-SA 2.5

However, these vaults were not properly sealed against water and eventually started to flood, leading to most businesses completely abandoning them before the turn of the century. The rooms were left largely empty as the Industrial Revolution swept across Britain, and eventually became slum housing for the city’s poor. As jobs began to be automated, more and more citizens were without income and found themselves unable to pay for their homes, sending them out onto the streets and, eventually, down to the South Bridge Vaults.

Since the vaults were almost totally blocked off, many of them were without air circulation and sunlight. This, coupled with a lack of running water and sanitation, made living down in the vaults a waking nightmare. Over time, the vaults became more and more crowded, with many housing several families at once.

A recreation of living conditions in the Vaults. Shadowgate, CC BY 2.0

The vaults were also entirely avoided by the city police. As a result, they became a hotspot for all kinds of crime, from theft and prostitution to murder and body snatching. Rumors have circulated for years that a pair of notorious serial killers used the vaults to store corpses that they would later sell to medical schools for use in classes. While the killings did occur, there is no evidence that the criminals actually used the vaults to store their victims.

It is unknown exactly when the vaults were finally shut down. At some point, they were cleared out and sealed off with rubble to prevent new inhabitants. The vaults were left completely forgotten underneath the city until being discovered and excavated in the 1980s. In the years since, various clubs and venues have taken up residence in the vaults, but the vast majority are still used for ghost tours.

The history of these vaults is overshadowed by the pop-culture appeal of their supposed hauntings, but their very existence shines a light on the grim conditions faced by the poor in the 19th century. The appalling conditions in which these impoverished people lived is bad enough, but the indifference shown by the city’s government was far worse, letting criminals run rampant and leaving entire families essentially trapped in the sunless, disease-ridden catacombs. Today, the vaults serve as a reminder of the shortcomings of industrialism and the suffering endured by the poor around the world throughout history.

Though much of the vault network is still closed off to the public, there are many different tour companies in the city that guide visitors through the accessible rooms. Despite being billed most often as “ghost tours,” the guides are more than receptive to questions about the vaults’ history and tend to spend just as much time describing the vaults themselves as the ghosts that ostensibly still haunt them. Mercat Tours, a well-regarded historical tour company in Edinburgh, does adults-only evening tours regularly, with ticket prices around $28.

---

Ryan Livingston

Ryan is a senior at The College of New Jersey, majoring in English and minoring in marketing. Since a young age, Ryan has been passionate about human rights and environmental action and uses his writing to educate wherever he can. He hopes to pursue a career in professional writing and spread his message even further.

Nature’s Day in Court: Ireland’s Green Revolution

Ireland may become the first European country to constitutionally recognize that ecosystems possess legal rights.

Seascape in Ireland. Giuseppe Milo. CC BY 2.0 DEED

Ireland, a nation renowned for breathtaking landscapes, may become the first European country to enshrine the rights of its nature into the national constitution. In December, the Oireachtas Joint Committee on Environment and Climate Action called on the government to begin steps towards a referendum. The referendum, if successful, would recognize that ecosystems possess legal rights comparable to those of humans and corporations.

In December, the Joint Committee on Environment and Climate Action proposed a series of administrative measures for drafting constitutional amendments to the Irish government. The amendments would bestow nature with inherent rights to existence, perpetuation and restoration. Elements of nature would be seen as having the rights to flourish and be respected. The amendment would additionally recognize that humans have a right to a clean environment and protect the right of any person or organization to defend or enforce those rights on the behalf of nature.

The movement to legislate the rights of nature has grown in recent years. In Ireland, the proposition to amend the constitution emanated from the loss of biodiversity within the country as of 2023. The Citizens’ Assembly on Biodiversity Loss addressed the unprecedented rate at which human activity has driven the mass extinction of plants and animals, with over 1 million more at risk of the same. The danger to Ireland's native species has been attributed to the overall change in its climate.

Similar to Ireland, the ecosystems of other countries have equally felt the effects of climate change. In the Andean plain of Bolivia, reduced precipitation and increased temperatures have facilitated rapid desertification. In Uganda, the pace of species extinctions has accelerated as a result of prolonged periods of drought and erratic rainfall due to deforestation. These countries, among others including Ecuador, New Zealand, and Spain, have a form of national law to recognize the rights of nature, or legal personhood for ecosystems. These laws typically provide a higher level of protection to ecosystems than environmental protection laws alone, although not all are constitutionally bound. Some countries that have written the Rights of Nature include Ecuador, New Zealand, India and Mexico.

Policymakers around the world have begun to embrace a changing idea of how nature itself is treated under law. Several governments have legally bound the ‘rights of nature’ to protect certain land and water from human development. In Bangladesh, all rivers are now under legal protection. In Colombia, the Supreme Court recognized the rights of the Amazon River. Ecuador, the first country in the world to recognize the rights of nature, gives “Mother Earth” legal standing in its constitution. This jurisprudence has prompted a massive shift away from the view of nature as a ‘thing’ that humans have a right to use and eventually destroy. Dr Peter Doran of the School of Law at Queen's University Belfast argued to the Joint Committee in Ireland that granting constitutional protection to nature would not only save species and habitats but also reorient human priorities, which would have much more long term positive consequences.

Despite the good intentions behind giving nature constitutional rights, some have called the law ‘anti-human,’ claiming that it will stop extractive projects such as mining or that the rights for nature are unlikely to provide a plausible solution to the issues environmentalists aim to resolve. Proponents respond that the laws aim to protect the integrity of nature so that it may persist in the future, not abolish the rights that humans have to, among other things, private property.

The Center for Democratic and Environmental Rights appeared before Ireland’s Joint Committee to testify for why the rights of nature should be constitutionally recognized. This next step for Ireland is now in the hands of the government and the Oireachtas (parliament). For legal effect, the amendments must be approved by both houses of the Oireachtas, Dail Eireann and the Seanad, and win a majority of the popular vote in a national referendum.

TO GET INVOLVED:

The Nature Conservancy is an organization focused on creating solutions to climate change and biodiversity loss. By tackling these issues with projects involving clean energy policies, carbon storage and agricultural innovation, there is no shortage of opportunities for the public to help. The organization lists ways to get involved on their website that range from volunteering to taking a pledge to donating.

Global Alliance for Rights of Nature is a global network of organizations made up of people from all walks of life who are committed to the recognition of the Rights of Nature. The group aims to honor the relationship between humans and nature, additionally pursuing the creation of a system that treats nature as a rights-bearing entity, not a resource to be exploited at will. To better emphasize the interconnectedness of humans and their environment, the group offers the opportunity to get involved as a member, donate, or even participate in internships.

Community Environmental Legal Defense Fund aims to build sustainable communities that assist people in asserting their right to local self-governance and the rights of nature. The group assists indigenous peoples, civil societies and communities in advancing laws for the protection of nature that involves providing legislative and policy drafting, legal research, and public engagement and education. With this, the public is able to join the movement, which offers many opportunities to volunteer in a community or help to organize a campaign.

EarthJustice is a nonprofit public interest environmental law organization that is founded on the belief that everyone has the right to a healthy environment. Through projects focusing on defending a right to clean air, clean water and wild places, the group believes that a better future can be built. With 15 offices and 200 lawyers, as well as an impressive total of 500 legal cases it has represented free of charge, there is no shortage of opportunities for the public to participate, whether through signing petitions or donating.

Mira White

Mira is a student at Brown University studying international and public affairs. Passionate about travel and language learning, she is eager to visit each continent to better understand the world and the people across it. In her free time she perfects her French, hoping to someday live in France working as a freelance journalist or in international affairs.

Fairies and Folklore: The Magic of Scotland and England

From castles to coves, uncover destinations steeped in the mythological histories of Scotland and England.

Portree, Isle of Skye’s capital city. CC BY 3.0

Whether your knowledge of fairies comes from nostalgic childhood tales or the well-informed worldbuilding of Tolkein, much of the folklore that has made its way into the popular imagination is embedded deep within the rolling hills of Scotland and England.  

While each country has its variations of the myth, taking a tour through the whimsical high grassed countryside and rocky shores is a great way to take in some awe-inspiring views and understand the magic embedded in these countries.

Scotland

Located off of Scotland's northwest coast, the Isle of Skye is full of picturesque villages, cliffed shores and quaint fishing towns. But rather than only enjoying the colorful coastal houses on Portree, the island's capital, extend your adventure and visit various sights around the island boasting mythical pedigrees.

Fairy Pools

A waterfall at the Fairy Pools on the Isle of Skye. CC BY 3.0

A waterfall phenomenon in Glen Brittle, the falls are surrounded by sky-capped mountains and boast aqua-blue waters of astonishing clarity. Some claim if you’re lucky, you may spot a fae or two amongst the willowing grasses and purple flowers; if not, the red deer, sheep, and rabbits inhabiting the area will have to suffice.

The pool's name comes from the local legend that claims a Clan McLeod Chief married a fairy Princess. Additionally, the pools are said to attract selkies, a group of mythical creatures that spend the day on the coast as seals and then enjoy the pools at night after transitioning to human form. 

Despite their charm, the Fairy Pools feature some brutally cold water temperatures, although it may be worthwhile to take a dip; as locals say, holding your head underwater for seven seconds is enough to bless you with the gift of eternal youth.

From the capital city of Portree, the Fairy Pools are a 35-minute drive and can be accessed through various tours operating on the island or of your own volition. The Fairy Pools walk is a 1.5-mile, easy hike to the pools from the parking lot.

Dunvegan Castle and Gardens

The Dunvegan Castle. CC BY-NC-ND 2.0 DEED

Open from March 29 to October 15, the Dunvegan Castle and Gardens is a medieval fortress dating back to the 1200s. Occupied by the same family for the last 800 years, the Hebridean castle is home to a few pieces of myth. On the Dunvegan property, one can walk across Fairy Bridge while exploring the grounds and even see the Fairy Flag, which is housed in the Castle.

The Fairy Flag is the prized silk scarf woven in the 4th century AD, either in Syria or Rhodes, and is said to possess miraculous powers instrumental in MacLeod’s battle victories. While there are two points of origin, a fairy origin and a crusader origin, the Fairy Bridge and Tower versions give the flag roots in folklore.

The Fairy Tower myth tells the tale of a restless MacLeod chief’s baby who was comforted one night by a fairy. The Fairy Bridge myth relates to the previously mentioned story of the MacLeod Chief and Fairy Princess; the story goes that the two parted ways on Fairy Bridge at Dunvegan, and the banner was his gift.

An astounding horticultural destination, Dunvegan boasts multiple gardens and woodland trails. The landscape and fauna are a wonder unto themselves. The gardens also feature lily ponds, gazebos and rare artifacts, such as a 17th-century sundial.

Located a 30-minute drive from Portree, the castle makes for an excellent excursion when visiting Scotland. While the Dunvegan Castle and Gardens offers visitor tours daily and make for a great day trip, the property's five holiday cottages allow visitors to enjoy an enchanting multi-day stay on the secluded property.

Fairy Glen

The labyrinth and peak at Fairy Glen on the Isle of Skye. CC BY NC-2.0

Protruding from the surrounding farmlands, Fairy Glen is a geographical landscape formed by an ancient landslide. The craggy formations and valleys are blanketed by a lush layer of green and are rumored to be home to the fae.  

Climbing up Fairy Glen’s peak or walking beneath the cover of moss-engulfed trees will make anyone feel like they are walking amongst the faeries. Be sure to stop and make a wish at the stone labyrinth when you are making your way through.

Fairy Glen is about a 25-minute drive from Portree, and various tours include this location as a stop. From the destination's parking lot there is a one-mile walking circuit that showcases the grounds, but feel free to adventure on your own and enjoy this majestic landscape.

England

On the rugged Southwestern tip of England, Cornwall is home to many of the country's mythical and folktales. Cornwall has its own variety of fairies, the Piskeys, a lively and mischievous people who originated from tales of a Pygmy race in Cornwall during the Neolithic period. More than just fairies, Cornwall is rumored to be home to mermaids, giants, and various King Arthur myths.

Sennen Cove

The coastline and surrounding shore at Sennen Cove. CC BY-SA 4.0 DEED.

England’s most westerly beach, Sennen Cove, is a white sand beach renowned for its excellent surfing conditions. In the early 20th century, American Anthropologist Walter Evan Wentz published "The Fairy Faith In Celtic Countries", conducting some of his research at Sennen Cove by speaking to locals about the dancing fairies. A study published at a similar time in the Journal of the Society for Psychic Research tells the story of Grace Penrose as written by E. Westlake. She speaks of miniature people in white dancing in the moonlight before being frightened and disappearing into a rock face along the shore.

To get to Sennen Cove, visitors can take a bus that leaves every two hours from Penzance or make the 20-minute drive themselves. Once at the Cove, you can enjoy Whitesands Bay, the stretch of white sand beach on the Cove’s coast. Overlooking the cove, stop at the Old Success Inn, a pub dating back to the 17th century, for lunch and drink. The Inn has a rich history in Sennen Cove and is rumored to be a site for mermaid sightings.

Elusive in nature, when visiting Sennen Cove, you may not stumble upon any fairies in the moonlight or catch a glimpse of mermaid tales ducking under the blue waves, but the Cove is perfect for a beach getaway anyway.

St. Michael’s Mount

The castle and causeway leading up to St. Michael’s Mount. CC BY-SA 3.0 DEED

A tidal island in Cornwall’s Mount Bay, St. Michael’s Mount is home to one of England’s most famous legends. Rumors of mermaids luring sailors to the island’s shores date as far back as 495 AD, but even more prominent is the Cornish tale of Jack the Giant Killer. With the island as his home, the evil Cormoran was defeated by none other than Jack after a long reign of terror. Per the legend, when visiting, be sure to hike up the mountain and around the island in search of the giant's missing stone heart.

Outside of folklore, the site is also a religious destination. Archangel Michael was rumored to have guided sailors to safety at the current location of the castle’s entry. Named after that patron saint of fishermen, St. Michael’s causeway allows travelers and pilgrims alike to walk from the mainland to the island during low tide.

To reach the island, walking over the causeway is one option; however, if it happens to be high tide, from March 29 to October 31 there are boats running from Marazion Beach to the island. Riddled with history, the castle, church and surrounding gardens offer a fusion of folk and faith, making Mount St. Michael a beautiful, enchanting destination on a Celtic fairytale tour.

Nicola is studying English Literature at George Washington University, where she also reports for the student newspaper, The Hatchet. Nicola's passion for literature and writing has sparked an interest in exploring the broader context surrounding written texts. Researching and writing for Catalyst Planet allows her to investigate nuanced issues that intersect with her interests in art history, culinary practices, and cultural traditions.

Nicola is studying English Literature at George Washington University, where she also reports for the student newspaper, The Hatchet. Nicola's passion for literature and writing has sparked an interest in exploring the broader context surrounding written texts. Researching and writing for Catalyst Planet allows her to investigate nuanced issues that intersect with her interests in art history, culinary practices, and cultural traditions.

Nicola is studying English Literature at George Washington University, where she also reports for the student newspaper, The Hatchet. Nicola's passion for literature and writing has sparked an interest in exploring the broader context surrounding written texts. Researching and writing for Catalyst Planet allows her to investigate nuanced issues that intersect with her interests in art history, culinary practices, and cultural traditions. Nicola is studying English Literature at George Washington University, where she also reports for the student newspaper, The Hatchet. Nicola's passion for literature and writing has sparked an interest in exploring the broader context surrounding written texts. Researching and writing for Catalyst Planet allows her to investigate nuanced issues that intersect with her interests in art history, culinary practices, and cultural traditions.

Nicola Degregorio

Nicola is studying English Literature at George Washington University, where she also reports for the student newspaper, The Hatchet. Nicola's passion for literature and writing has sparked an interest in exploring the broader context surrounding written texts. Researching and writing for Catalyst Planet allows her to investigate nuanced issues that intersect with her interests in art history, culinary practices, and cultural traditions.

Surfing at 2024 Olympics Destroys Coral Reefs in Tahiti

Teahupo’o locals and scientists protest the building of 2024 Olympic Games infrastructure over environmental and economic concerns.

Surfing in French Polynesia. Duncan Rawlinson. CC BY-NC 2.0 DEED

In preparation for the 2024 Olympics, Paris has placed sustainability at the heart of its environmental ambitions. In keeping with the city's aim to “assume its responsibilities” for the games' environmental and social challenges, there have been many contributions to fight carbon impact, food waste and destructive construction. However, organizers have recently faced backlash for the erection of an aluminum tower in Tahiti, built specifically for the new surfing competition, that has damaged both coral and the competition's reputation.

To take the games to new heights, Paris has decided to host a new surfing competition, set to take place in Teahupo’o, Tahiti. This setting will offer the opportunity to host a unique competition and allow France to engage with its overseas territories. Teahupo’o, described as a paradise and dream spot by surfers and travelers alike, is anticipated to bring fans and athletes together. This influx of people to the island has called for the construction of a new venue; a 14 ton aluminum tower with concrete foundations, set to host 40 people judging and televising the competition.

Coral Reefs in Tahiti. Jeremy H. CC BY-NC-ND 2.0 DEED

On 1 December, a barge intended to help build the tower got caught on a reef and damaged local coral. Save Teahupo’o Reef, a group made up of locals, surfers and NGOs, posted a video showing the broken coral and damaged boat propeller on their Instagram. After this initial damage, work was stopped to find a small barge and better route for it so as to not damage any more coral.

Plans to build the tower have been met with more resistance from locals in the form of social media campaigns or protests. Residents have fought against the construction, claiming that building it risks impacting the marine ecosystem and damaging the coral reef. Scientists based in Hawaii have advocated with locals and defended their call to stop building the tower, citing its environmental impact. Using 3D photogrammetry techniques, the researchers created maps of the reef habitat where the tower is set to be built and of the lagoon that its materials will be transported through. Their findings indicate that Teahupo’o would face devastating effects. Of the 3,500 square feet that this development would impact, there are over 1,000 corals from 20 different species. The cost of this dredging and building is estimated at $1.3 million. One of the scientists, Dr. Burns, offered no recommendation for construction that would minimize reef damage as there will be substantial damage regardless of alterations to the process. He suggested alternative solutions to broadcasting the games that included a judge in a boat, using drones or playing a live video feed, all of which are more cost-effective, environmentally friendly and presumably better aligned with the ambitions of the organizers.

Efforts to protest the tower have primarily come from groups like Association Vai Ara o Teahupo’o, who have created an online petition that has garnered over 223,000 signatures. The group is composed primarily of locals who rely on the marine environment for their livelihood and feel it is an important part of their heritage that they would like to preserve.

Coral Reefs in French Polynesia. Adam Reeder. CC BY-NC 2.0 DEED

Following the barge incident, the Olympic Committee made the decision to reduce the size of the tower by 25%. To decrease the weight placed on the foundations, the weight has been reduced from 14 tons to nine and will instead be installed at the same site as the old wooden tower. The original design required 72 four meter tall rods that would be drilled into the reef, but as a result of the now smaller design, rod length will be shortened so as to not be driven down as far. The tower is also being built in an area with fewer corals, and existing ones will be removed and taken care of to ensure regrowth.

Despite growing concern over the risk posed to marine life, there will be some benefits of the event after the games conclude. These include new infrastructure such as a pedestrian bridge, fiber internet cables and the money brought into the local economy by those renting places to stay for the games.

Paris has certainly given more thought to sustainability efforts relative to other Olympic hosts, and has certainly made concerted efforts to reduce the games' environmental impact. However, it is important to recognize the destruction that the tower has caused and the long-lasting effects that it will have even after the games end. If Paris does intend to follow through on its sustainability goals, it must ensure that the Teohupo’o reef is left undamaged not just for the short duration of the games, but even after they end. In doing this, Paris and the organizers of the games would prove themselves dedicated to both sustainability and the island's people, bringing about a new era of true environmental conservation.

---

Mira White

Mira is a student at Brown University studying international and public affairs. Passionate about travel and language learning, she is eager to visit each continent to better understand the world and the people across it. In her free time she perfects her French, hoping to someday live in France working as a freelance journalist or in international affairs.

Travel Green in Warsaw

How Poland’s largest city is leading the sustainability revolution.

Vistula Boulevards at sunset. Photo courtesy of City of Warsaw

As I meandered through the storied streets of Warsaw, I was struck by the city's unwavering commitment to eco-friendly, sustainable tourism. In a world where the travel industry grapples with the challenges of preserving our planet while meeting the demands of curious visitors, Warsaw emerges as a shining beacon of hope. This Polish capital stands as a remarkable example, blending environmental responsibility seamlessly with the needs of travelers.

The Vistula River: A Tranquil Retreat Amidst Urban Life

Vistula River beachfront. Photo courtesy of Lukasz Kopec City of Warsaw

Steps away from the bustling cityscape, I discovered a rarity not found in most urban settings—a soft golden sandy beach on the right bank of the Vistula River. The meticulously maintained sandy beaches beckoned me to take off my shoes and savor the sand between my toes. What a wonderful oasis for locals and travelers to unwind amid nature's embrace. Whether you're soaking up the sun, strolling along the riverbank or indulging in water sports, the city is preserving the river's ecosystem, ensuring harmony with the natural habitat.

Warsaw's Green Oasis: Nature Amidst the City

University of Warsaw Library Rooftop Garden. Photo Courtesy of Sharon Kurtz

Warsaw has dedicated almost a quarter of its urban landscape to lush green spaces, offering residents and visitors respite from the city's energetic pulse. The University of Warsaw Library's Rooftop Garden is a hidden treasure among these green gems. It is a haven of tranquility and a living laboratory, fostering biodiversity and environmental research.

Lazienki Park, the city's most famous green area, marries culture, nature and history. It hosts free open-air Chopin concerts during the summer, a not-to-be-missed experience for classical music enthusiasts. The park's rich history and majestic palace on the water create a fairytale-like ambiance.

Lazienki Park Chopin Sculpture. Photo courtesy of Sharon Kurtz

Wilanow Park, in the city center, boasts magnificent gardens surrounding the Wilanow Palace, a glimpse into Poland's royal past. Nearby, the Saxon Garden, Warsaw’s oldest, holds echoes of its exclusive heritage. The garden's peaceful aura and the nearby Tomb of the Unknown Soldier created a space for me to rest on a shady bench and people-watch after a long day of sightseeing.

Fresh and Sustainable: Warsaw's Green Markets

Bio Bazar Market Vendor. Photo courtesy of Sharon Kurtz

Warsaw's commitment to sustainability extends to its thriving green markets, which actively promote eco-conscious practices and foster a vibrant connection between local farmers and consumers. Among these markets BioBazar, nestled within the historic Norblin Factory Complex, is a glowing testament to the city's dedication to sustainability.

BioBazar is more than a market; it's a living example of Warsaw's conservation-minded approach to shopping. Visitors can explore a bounty of locally sourced, organic, and environmentally friendly products here. The market emphasizes fair trade principles, ensuring that farmers receive a reasonable price for their goods, thus supporting local agriculture and strengthening the community.

Local farms sell their products directly to consumers, offering an array of delights that vary with the changing seasons. From organic meats and cheeses sourced from nearby farms to a delightful array of homemade baked goods, including beloved treats like Paczki (Polish doughnuts) and Pierogi (stuffed dumplings), to an assortment of soups, pickles and relishes, these markets encapsulate the essence of seasonal, locally sourced and earth-friendly living.

Lowickie market stall selling fresh eggs. Photo courtesy of Sharon Kurtz

By prioritizing seasonal products and the direct exchange between producers and consumers, Warsaw's green markets minimize the carbon footprint associated with long-distance transportation, ensuring that every item on the market's shelves is delectable and eco-friendly. The result is a thriving culinary and cultural experience that nourishes the body and nurtures the planet.

Repurposing Warsaw: An Architectural Renaissance

Noblin Factory Complex repurposed equipment bench. Photo courtesy of Sharon Kurtz

Warsaw's commitment to repurposing its architectural heritage is another testament to its sustainable and culturally rich ethos. It's not just about breathing new life into old structures; it's celebrating history and creativity.

In the heart of Warsaw, the Norblin Factory is a prime example of this dedication to repurposing. What was once an industrial complex has undergone a transformative journey, emerging as a multi-use center that seamlessly integrates residential, commercial and cultural spaces. The factory's original metal equipment and carts have been artfully preserved and repurposed, providing a fascinating blend of industrial history and contemporary art. I enjoyed witnessing metal carts turned into benches and old machinery adorning the space as art, bridging the gap between the past and the present.

In Warsaw's gritty and bohemian Praga District, the Neon Museum resides in an old weapons facility known as the Soho Factory. This unassuming structure, with its worn-out exterior, hides an enchanting secret. The factory's dull bricks are the backdrop for a captivating array of neon signs from the Cold War era. The Neon Museum is more than a repository of signs; it's a guardian of history, safeguarding the luminous artistry of a bygone era.

Neon Museum in the Praga District. Photo courtesy of Filip Kwiatkowski City of Warsaw

These neon signs, many of which were once symbols of a divided world, now coexist as cultural artifacts and artistic relics, reminding us of the past while illuminating the present. It's a tribute to the resilience of Warsaw's spirit and its creative vision of repurposing that brings the city's rich history to life.

Bee-Friendly Capital: Nurturing Pollinators in Warsaw

Educational Apiary Program in Wilanow. Photo courtesy of City of Warsaw

Warsaw is leading the way in protecting and embracing pollinators, particularly bees. The educational apiary program in Wilanow provides a chemical-free sanctuary where bees thrive, contributing to a healthy ecosystem.

Bee hives in city parks and on iconic buildings like the Palace of Culture and Science educate residents and raise awareness about the importance of these pollinators, enhancing a healthy ecosystem.

By ensuring the bees' well-being and producing pure honey, Warsaw again showcases its commitment to sustainability. This honey is a sweet testament to the city's eco-conscious efforts, offering residents and visitors a taste of their dedication—and Warsaw honey makes a delicious souvenir! 

Hike and Bike Trails: Fun and Green Exploration

Vistula Riverfront Hike and Bike Path. Photo courtesy of City of Warsaw

Warsaw's network of hiking and cycling trails winds through parks and green areas and along the Vistula River, offering a chance to explore the city's natural beauty while reducing one's carbon footprint. The abundance of trails encourages alternative transportation, making Warsaw a greener and healthier city. Bike-sharing programs promote low-impact travel, providing convenient and efficient access to these trails.

Bike sharing station in the city center. Photo courtesy of Sharon Kurtz

Art, Culture, and the Environment: Warsaw's Eco-Friendly Fusion

Street art and murals are everywhere. Photo courtesy of Sharon Kurtz

The city's vibrant art and cultural resurgence seamlessly intertwine with its renewable approach to tourism, enriching the natural beauty that draws visitors worldwide. I loved the dynamic street art everywhere. The city's art galleries and public installations celebrate local talent and champion sustainability in the arts, fostering a sense of community and profound cultural pride.

Cultural festivals further enhance Warsaw's artistic landscape, weaving a diverse tapestry of experiences for locals and travelers alike. Events like the Warsaw Summer Jazz Days and the Warsaw Film Festival attract international visitors, blending artistic expression with environmentally conscious practices.

Why you should visit

Green spaces are gems in Warsaw. Photo Courtesy of Sharon Kurtz 

Whether you are a nature lover, a history enthusiast or simply seeking an adventure, Warsaw is a great place to visit, with myriad examples of its eco-friendly passion intertwined with its rich past and natural beauty.

---

Sharon Kurtz

Sharon Kurtz, an accomplished travel writer and award-winning photographer based in Austin, Texas, is dedicated to exploring the world and sharing her adventures through compelling storytelling. She intricately weaves together her love for travel and food, immersing readers in diverse cultures and flavors both at home and across the globe. Showcasing the beauty and attractions of each destination, she delves deep into local culture, traditions, and hidden gems, revealing the extraordinary in every place. Enjoy more of Sharon’s writing on her website, or follow her on Instagram.

Amsterdam's Quest for a Safer Red-Light District

Propositions for legislative shifts strive for balance between tourism, public safety and the well-being of sex workers.

Red Light District Canal Street View. Alejandro Forero Cuervo. CC BY 2.0

For decades Amsterdam has been inundated by rowdy crowds of eager sightseeing tourists and a hotspot for visitors craving a subversive experience. The Netherlands’ progressive capital has long had a uniquely tolerant approach to often prohibited substances such as marijuana and psilocybin as well as toward the legalization of sex work. While the city openly celebrates this unique facet of its culture, the Dutch government has been forced to grapple with an influx of unruly visitors and an increasingly polluted, noisy, and at times unsafe Red Light district.

Amsterdam Smoke Shops. Travelmag.com. CC BY 2.0

In response to the district’s increasingly obstreperous environment, the city sought to address local residents’ noise and substance abuse concerns by proposing new regulations this past spring. The city has insisted on earlier closing times for bars (2 a.m., with no entry after 1 a.m.), stopped sex workers from working after 3 a.m., and banned the use of marijuana, alcohol, and other drugs in the streets. In response to the city’s regulatory shifts entrepreneurs, business owners and bartenders have been outspoken in frustration against the new policies, claiming little has changed in regards to the safety and cleanliness of the area. Sex workers have also voiced complaints over the restriction placed on the time they are allowed to work, expressing concern that the reduced hours have put them under financial pressure. This destitution can force them to accept clients they would normally reject. 

Canal View Red Light District. Pixabay.com. CC BY 1.0

To further alleviate the pressure on the Red Light district, Amsterdam's authorities are considering a more drastic approach: creating a new location for legal sex work in a different neighborhood. This new location would be in a suburban area, and many are referring to the proposed locale as a “suburban erotic center” The goal of the move is to spread out the demand and ease the burden on the current district. 

Since the legalization of sex work in the Netherlands in 2000 the country has been vigilant about enforcing a safe environment for individuals in the field, with regulations in place to combat human trafficking and other criminal behavior. For instance, sex work is illegal to practice in any space outside of a registered business (e.g. at home, in hotels, or in public spaces). In an attempt to protect and respect workers the city has banned tours of the Red Light district, required visitors to identify themselves with a valid form of ID, and set 21 as the minimum age for sex workers. 

An Amsterdam Sex Shop. Rob Kievit. CC BY-SA 2.0 

The city’s proposition of a new epicenter for sex work is still in its early phases, but it would dramatically change the scope of Amsterdam’s tourism. With fewer than a million residents, the city hosts roughly 20 million visitors annually, and tourism is one of the leading markets for local businesses. Any major change to laws regarding sex work and the overall functioning of the district will inevitably lead to shifts in the travel industry. The question remains as to whether the new area created to host erotic work will fix the industry’s systemic problems and help protect workers, and if it will solve the issues of over-tourism and noise pollution. 

---

Avery Patterson

A rising junior at Vassar College in New York State, Avery is a Media Studies and French double major. She is an avid reader, writer, and traveler. She loves to immerse herself in new cultures and is an avid explorer who loves being in nature. She is passionate about climate and social justice and hopes to use her love of writing as a catalyst for positive change.

From Abstraction to Realism in Ancient Greek Art

If you ever find yourself struggling with Athens’ summer heat, cool off in its museums and discover a whirlwind of art and civilization.

Small statues typical of the Cycladic Culture, which flourished between the fourth and second millennia BC. Taken by Dermot Curtin.

A human face represented only by an angular nose bridge and a semi-oval silhouette. A procession of curvilinear stick figures, lavished with somewhat less detail than bizarrely eight-legged horses, inanimate chariots and abstract designs. A general preference for the symbolic over the literal and the real. Much of the art you’ll find in Greece’s National Archaeological Museum (NAM)is highly abstract; parts of the collection, particularly those of the Cycladic Period, have a distinctly postmodern feel to them. Such works, however, are not the product of the 19th and 20th century revolt against Greco-Roman and Renaissance verisimilitude, long a dominant force in European art. They instead predate the Classical period and its values by hundreds or thousands of years.

Almost all visitors to Athens who can take the heat make the long, slow trek up the Acropolis to see the Parthenon. Many of those will then visit the Acropolis Museum, a relatively new museum home to much of the pride of Greece’s classical heritage, including the portion of the Parthenon Frieze that Thomas Bruce didn’t get around to looting (plaster casts of the originals fill in gaps, labeled with an ignominious “BM” for British Museum). Still popular, but less of a universal attraction, I found the National Archaeological Museum to be the more interesting of Athens’s two great museums dedicated to antiquity. The NAM’s more varied collection allows visitors to chart the development of Greek style over several millennia, seeing works that are stunning in themselves and better understanding of one of the most radical changes in aesthetic values before the modern age.

The original segments and fragments are noticeably grayer than the majority plaster copies. Taken by Dermot Curtin.

Greece’s island territories were its most precocious in terms of art and civilization. The Minoan and aforementioned Cycladic cultures left a remarkable heritage, which stand in marked contrast to later Hellenic society and each other. Cycladic art is most famous for its austere minimalism, especially as expressed in statues such as the two in this article’s introductory photograph. The Minoans took a different approach, painting vivid frescoes which have, in part thanks to a volcanic eruption sometime between 1650 and 1550 BC, survived thousands of years in good condition. Human figures in Minoan art are stylized, but are far from the degree of abstraction found in their Cycladic semi-contemporaries. Many Minoan paintings not saved by volcanic ash were unearthed at the Palace of Knossos, where King Minos of Greek myth was said to have fed young Athenians to the dreaded Minotaur every year in the Heroic Age.

Two Minoan frescoes, originally from Santorini and preserved by its great eruption. Taken by Dermot Curtin.

Although the Minoan civilization flourished on what is now Greek soil, in one respect it was not yet a Hellenic society: language. The Minoans developed their own system of writing, known to history as Linear A, around the 19th century BC. It has never been deciphered, but linguists have been sound out its symbols since its direct descendant, known as Linear B, was cracked in the early 1950’s. Linear B tablets represent the earliest recorded form of the Greek language called Mycenaean Greek, and are generally administrative documents that the elite used to keep track of their resources and labor. Mycenaean tablets from Crete are indirect evidence for the rise of Hellenic culture in insular Greece, recording a nobility that used Greek names and lower orders with older, native Minoan names. The Mycenaean culture originated in mainland Greece, and expanded south and east into what are now the Greek islands. The Minoan language has no confirmed relatives or descendants.

Linear B tablet from not long after the Mycenaean conquest/cultural shift in the 1400s BC. Taken by Dermot Curtin.

Mycenaean Civilization was famous long before its archaeological rediscovery in the late 19th century as the setting of Homer’s Iliad and Odyssey. Although Homer composed centuries after the Bronze Age Collapse of circa 1200 BC, he knew many details about the earlier period; the blind poet placed Agamemnon, the the most important leader of the Greeks in the Trojan War, on the throne of Mycenae, which modern archaeology has revealed to be the largest city of the age. Many of the most significant finds from the Hellenic Bronze Age are ornately decorated thin gold sheets, which are part of a broader European artistic trend of the same period. I was immediately reminded of similar (albeit less intricate) artifacts from Bronze Age Ireland. Other works, such as the beautiful inlaid dagger below, have no obvious parallel.

Many gold Mycenaean artifacts from the National Archaeological Museum. Taken by Dermot Curtin.

Disk from a Reel, Irish, c. 800 BC. The Metropolitan Museum of Art. CC0.

Gold Dagger from the National Archaeological Museum. Taken by Dermot Curtin.

The Bronze Age Collapse hit many areas hard, and Greece harder than most. Linear B fell out of use around 1200 BC, leaving the Hellenic world without a script until about 200 years later when the Phoenician abjad was modified for the purpose, with vowels added to make it a viable option for the Greek language. Greece had entered its Dark Age, a radical departure from the centralization, trade and literacy of the Mycenaean and Minoan eras. Despite this, literature flourished; Homer and Hesiod composed their epics, laying the foundation for millennia of inspiration and adaptation.

Two Geometric amphorae from the National Archaeological Museum, from an age (900-700 BC) defined by abstract art. Taken by Dermot Curtin.

As civilization began to recover from the Collapse in the tenth century BC, the Geometric style emerged to fill the void left by Mycenaean art. This style was deliberately abstract, characterized by repeating linear patterns on large amphorae. People, when present at all, appear as small stick figures. Mourners dramatically and uniformly put their hands on their heads, their arms bent at sharp angles that would look unnatural on a more realistic human design; such a pose is necessary to convey distress, as the faces are not given enough detail to show any kind of emotion. The meandros, a repeating pattern that would later be a common fringe for other designs, here takes center stage, while the funerary procession is confined to a narrow box in the upper-center of the amphora. There is little to differentiate one person from another, the exceptions being a child, who is clearly smaller than the adults, and the deceased, who lies on his or her back. Geometric style seems to be the product of a culture that did not value the individual human being as a subject for artistic expression.

Marble statue of a youth, from Archaic Greece c. 590-580 BC; you can see the abstract art of the Geometric give way to stylized human forms. Metropolitan Museum of Art. CC0.

The Kroisos Kouros, c. 530 BC. User:Mountain. CC0.

Greece only fully recovered from the Bronze Age Collapse as it transitioned into its Archaic period around the eighth century BC. In this period, as Greek culture built up to its fifth century zenith, the seeds were planted for many of the institutions and conventions that would flourish in the Classical era (beginning 480 BC with the end of the Persian Wars). The Olympic games were founded, dramas began to be staged in Athens and lawgivers like Solon imposed constitutional reforms that would eventually lead to democracy. The visual arts made a dramatic turn, as abstract designs retreated to the background in favor of a strong emphasis on the human form. The most typical art form of the time is the kouros, a strongly stylized nude statue of a male youth. Although sometimes differing in size and detail, all kouroi adhere to the same basic plan, standing up straight with the left foot out front, braided hair and a serene affect. The figure on the right was made about 50 years later than its counterpart to the left, and although clearly the product of more skilled craftsmanship does not deviate from the essence of the older model. 

Statue from the Egyptian Old Kingdom that resembles the Greek Kouros; note the forward left foot. The Metropolitan Museum of Art. CC0.

Although impressive in their own right, such statues are not dissimilar to art produced by Middle Eastern cultures in the Bronze and Iron ages. Initial kouroi designs seem to have been borrowed in part from Egypt during the early part of the Archaic period. In the jubilant aftermath of the Greek victory in the Persian Wars, however, Hellenic artists made an unprecedented turn toward realism that would cement Greece’s place in art history for all time.

Roman copy of Polykleitos’s famous Diadumenos, original circa 420 BC. Taken by Dermot Curtin.

A Greek sailor looks out wistfully on the sea battle where he died, funerary stele. Taken by Dermot Curtin. (melancholy)

Ancient art reached its apogee in the Classical period of the fifth and century BC. This is the era which would come to define Greek civilization, and marks one of high water marks of cultural production the world over. In the visual arts this meant a form of idealized realism, meant to portray natural forms in their best possible state. This involved more than technical skill, as sculptors like Polykleitos incorporated specific mathematical proportions into their work in their drive for perfection. The incredible detail allowed for greater subtlety of design; compare the melancholy of the fallen soldier on the left to the sharp and uniform gestures on the Geometric mourners above. The sculptures look like people you could actually know, except fitter and far better looking.

Geometric amphora. Taken by Dermot Curtin.

Terracotta volute-krater with red figure design, circa 450 BC. Metropolitan Museum of Art. CC0.

The period between 750 and 450 BC saw a revolution in aesthetic values, matched only by the modern rise of modern art in the 19th and 20th centuries. In the Ancient Greek world, however, the shift was in the opposite direction, from the abstract to the concrete. The change in taste was coincided with a dramatic rise in skill, leading to works that still keep many of the world’s art historians and critics occupied. If you ever find yourself in Athens, make sure to visit the National Archaeological Museum to experience the whirlwind for yourself.

---

Dermot Curtin

Dermot is copy editor and a contributing writer at CATALYST PLANET. He is a recent graduate of William & Mary, majoring in History and Government, and enjoys learning about the world and conveying his experiences through writing.

Hot Air Ballooning in Bristol

Known as the hot air balloon capital of the United Kingdom, Bristol prides itself on lighter-than-air travel.

Bristol International Balloon Fiesta. PughPugh. CC BY 2.0.

The sun is shining and the air is still. Laying on the soft grass, I watch the fluffy clouds float along. I wonder what could possibly make this day better. Then, just as my eyelids begin to close, I am jolted awake by a loud sound overhead. It is the iconic roar of a hot air balloon igniting. Passing over me, the cushiony balloon glides effortlessly, allowing the gentle breeze to direct it through the sky. I sit up to get a better view and realize two more hot air balloons are following behind the first. Pops of red, yellow and purple embellish the blue skies.

On these perfect summer days in my hometown of Bristol, just two hours west of London, that familiar roaring sound is bound to be heard. And once you see one hot air balloon in the sky, keep an eye out, as there are probably more coming. Although the weather conditions don’t always favor ballooning, Bristol takes great pride in its culture in the clouds.

Hot Air Balloons over Bristol Suspension Bridge. Matt Prosser. CC BY-SA 3.0.

Hot air balloons were the first form of air travel and date back to 1783, all thanks to the French Montgolfier brothers. Having created a balloon contraption, the brothers successfully transported living animals — a sheep, a rooster and a duck — two miles in their invention. A year later, Michael Baggini brought the invention to Bristol. In 1784, he launched a balloon in Cooper's Hall, now known as the Bristol Old Vic Theatre. Demonstrating the potential of this exhilarating form of air travel, he sparked great excitement in the public as they watched the balloon float around the room.

Nearly 200 years later, Britain’s first modern hot air balloon was created by Don Cameron, a member of the Bristol Gliding Club. He named the craft the Bristol Belle, a red and yellow striped balloon which took flight in 1967. This event put Bristol on the map as a pioneer of the ballooning industry.

Nowadays, Bristol celebrates its hot air balloon culture with the International Balloon Fiesta, the largest hot air balloon festival in Europe. Taking place in mid-August every year since 1979, thousands of people, from Bristol and beyond, gather over its four days to experience the graceful balloons brightening up the sky. When the weather permits, up to 100 hot air balloons launch at the same time, turning the sky into a playing field of different colors, shapes and sizes. Every year, quirky balloon designs can be spotted, such as 2023’s screwdriver, various animal shapes and even a shopping trolley. This eye-catching event sparks excitement all around the city as the balloons float over Bristol.

Bristol International Balloon Fiesta. Karen Roe. CC BY-2.0.

The magic continues into dark for the night glow. Dozens of balloons ignite while stationary on the ground. The roaring flames warm the whole fiesta in an otherworldly illumination.

Bristol International Balloon Fiesta. Mike Peel (www.mikepeel.net). CC BY-SA 4.0.

While the Balloon Fiesta showcases the best of Bristol’s balloons, it is not the only time they appear in our skies. Serendipitous balloon sightings are arguably more impressive, as their unexpected presence is so calming. A balloon in the sky signifies the winds are resting and the air is undisturbed. In harmony with the clouds, their graceful, humble nature allows them to be unobtrusive as they soar through the sky.

Another way to experience the serenity of the balloon is to step inside the basket and go on the journey of a lifetime. What better way to see Bristol than an unforgettable one-hour flight over this home of the hot air balloon? A variety of operators fly in the area, including First Flight Hot Air Balloons and Bailey's Balloons. Flights cost from $250 per person and can accommodate families, private parties and even romantic proposals.

However you experience it, the hot air balloon epitomizes Bristol, representing innovation and creativity and creating peace and calm. No matter how many times I see the colorful contraptions overhead, I will always be in awe of them. They will continue to light up the skies for centuries to come as Bristol will always be known as the ballooning capital of the UK.

---

Eva Adorisio

Eva is an avid traveler and writer from Bristol, England. In her writing, she aims to show the true nature of what a place is really like. Her Italian roots have led to a love of food, culture and language. She also spends her time staying active out in nature and is always searching for the next adventure. 

Will the Paris Olympics Be the Green Games?

In preparation for the Olympic Games, Paris invests in sustainable resources to minimize environmental impact.

Paris Olympic Games. Nicolas Michaud. CC BY 2.0

Keeping up the momentum of its previous environmental ambitions, Paris has committed to complete environmental sustainability for the 2024 Olympic Games. This greener approach will be made possible through careful consideration of the event’s chosen venues, operations (catering and accommodation) and transportation.

As a city renowned for its architecture, Paris has addressed one major change that it can make to the games — using existing infrastructure to host events. As of now, 95% of the chosen venues are pre-existing  or temporary structures. 

The competition zones are divided into two main areas both inside and outside of Paris’ center. Universally connected by the Seine, 80% of the venues are within a 10 kilometer distance of the Olympic and Paralympic Zones, allowing 85% of athletes to stay less than 30 minutes away from their venue. Through the use of existing facilities that require minimal transportation, Paris can host an event that will aid in its goal to, hopefully, halve a previous carbon footprint of 3.86 million tons. The French aim for a decrease in emissions compared to that of the Tokyo Games in 2020. With Tokyo’s post-game estimation of 2.16 million tons of carbon dioxide, Paris has committed to a limit of 1.65 million tons and to offset any indirect impact with climate-positive projects. Meeting carbon emission goals for the games may prove challenging because of these indirect impacts, primarily the substantial travel emissions generated by spectators. This seems a daunting task when compared to the Tokyo games which managed to achieve low net emissions because of the lack of spectators due to the COVID-19 pandemic. 

In accordance with the city’s holistic sustainability vision, Paris has placed emphasis on the importance of green catering. As an event that is responsible for serving 13 million meals, embracing sustainable food sources and partnerships now will set the city up for environmental prosperity even after the games.

In recognizing the environmental impact of certain food sources and resulting waste, Paris has quantified its objectives to reduce its carbon footprint. This eco-conscious catering approach is made up of 6 commitments: two times more plant-based food, 100% certified food (food that is sourced, produced and consumed in a responsible way), reduced plastic consumption, recycling of all uneaten food, reuse of all equipment and structures and hiring 10% of workers from professional integration programs. Athletes and spectators will have a wide variety of plant-based options at their disposal, with 60% of food and beverages available to spectators being vegetarian. With 80% of the total food supply being sourced from within France’s borders, the alternatives to traditional cuisine should hardly be noticed as food will be prepared by culinary professionals who are familiar with creating meals that make the best use of the seasonal menu. Expertise from the chefs and localized sourcing will leave little room for waste across both food and its packing. In its drive to cut down on single-use plastic, Paris’ catering teams will exercise the use of plastic alternatives and employ a “reducing, reusing, replacing and recycling” concept on drink and food containers. 

Paris’ goal to minimize waste generation and increase localized food sourcing encourages a healthier lifestyle that will extend beyond the games and become a beacon for environmental change. Even during the 2016 Olympic Games in Rio de Janeiro, plastic in the Guanabara Bay made it difficult for sailing teams to compete. This problem only intensified after the games when produced waste registered at over 18,500 tons, most being non-renewables. Despite this, some of the food waste after those games was utilized by an Italian chef, who created meals for the homeless.

The Paris Olympics will not focus only on breaking athletic records, but on breaking new ground for environmental action, particularly in sustainable event management. Through reliance on a well-developed, effective public transit system and localizing operations within France to minimize travel distance, Paris is showcasing a dedication to environmental impact that will extend beyond the games. If successful, this will serve as an inspiring example for how a large-scale international event can align with sustainability goals to change not just experiences, but lifestyles.

---

Mira White

Mira is a student at Brown University studying international and public affairs. Passionate about travel and language learning, she is eager to visit each continent to better understand the world and the people across it. In her free time she perfects her French, hoping to someday live in France working as a freelance journalist or in international affairs.

Traveling Along the Western Coast of Turkey

Exploring the places where I feel most connected to my Turkish heritage.

Cesme. CharlesFred. CC BY-NC-SA 2.0.

The First Steps: Traveling to Turkey

An ocean view near my grandparent’s house in Cesme. Su Ertekin-Taner.

Today, my mom, younger sister, and I begin the first leg of our family’s annual trip to Turkey. Usually, we visit my Turkish parents’ childhood homes on these yearly trips, learning personal and national history that is too distant in the United States, where few close relatives live. I am a U.S. citizen with a Turkish identity. These trips help parse out parts of me, aid in my understanding of who I am — with, of course, a bit of leisure and excitement. Soon we will be partaking in this tradition. We will arrive at Cesme, where my mom’s side of the extended family waits for us. Cesme, one of the most popular vacation spots in Turkey, fills up this time of year. Located on the country’s western coast, this small town attracts many visitors from nearby Izmir, who eagerly travel an hour by car, and even some from Istanbul, who may not so eagerly await their six hour ride to the resort town. 

Regardless, they all flock to Cesme. The town’s name means “fountain” in Turkish; accordingly, many come for the beaches and the water of the Aegean Sea — the fountain of the earth — but Cesme has much more to offer than that: resorts, day hikes, the Cesme castle, artisan shops, seafood restaurants, and orbiting small towns like Dalyan and Alacati.

Now, I’m getting eager and I know my extended family is too. A year has been too long for them. A year has been too long for me. 

The ten hour flight doesn’t fly by. Instead, the minutes pass begrudgingly. I pass them thinking of the waves, the harbor, my grandparents’ Cesme house. Soon, but not soon enough, we arrive at a familiar small house pushed claustrophobically against its neighbors. Flowers and vines grow everywhere, and a bird or two coo. Across from my mom’s childhood home, the bright blue Aegean stretches out for miles. My eyes barely acclimate to this sort of paradise on Earth before I fall asleep.

Dalyan Harbor

Cesme. CharlesFred. CC BY-NC-SA 2.0.

A view of the Dalyan harbor. Su Ertekin-Taner.

A bite of lokma. Su Ertekin-Taner.

My mom takes me down to Dalyan via a cheap but reliable minibus. Dalyan is another small harbor town just an hour outside of the main Cesme gathering grounds, between the Fethiye and Marmaris districts. While our minibus trip takes thirty minutes, the town is an hour and a half drive from the Izmir airport.

Dalyan, though small and with a population of a little more than a couple thousand, offers many nautical traditions. The riverside dining experience is famed not only for its gastronomy (the fish), but also the riverside aspect; day-long boat tours float along the coast of the town, stopping in the odd Dalyan mud bath; and oh, the beaches. The finest salt water, found for example at Iztuzu Beach, cleanses and captivates swimmers and paddlers.

But now, it is night. We might engage in those activities later. For now, we’re walking through a quiet town. Although this town isn’t loud, its colors are: they shout their pride willingly. The green fishnets, the red-mauve roofs of houses, the turquoise pots of green leaves, the constant blue of the Aegean sea. There are too many hues to count, or rather identify. 

We greedily walk near the harbor first, our eyes hungering for the myriad colors. Fish restaurants — typical of Dalyan — line the scenery, some more crowded than others, some more touristy than others. The diners have just started their mezzes, a kind of Turkish tapas, or they’re readily consuming their main course, of which sea bass is the most popular. A small band plays outside one of the restaurants, trying to attract visitors, but the restaurants are relatively overpriced for Turkey and we’re unwilling to invest; instead, we will order from a more reasonably priced seafood restaurant in the coming days. In between restaurants are boats, small and little, with or sans people. Some boat goers sing to a radio, others drink Turkish tea (cay), reminiscing on some memory or another. 

Then we travel the inner street, more dangerously paved this time. The colors are still exciting here. We walk alongside apartments, markets, pharmacies, and small shops. Some boys play soccer near a tea shop, a couple struts hand in hand. This is a familial sort of place, a close neighborhood — almost. The cobblestone path we walk on eventually takes us to a lokma maker. Lokma is a traditional Turkish dessert of fried dough glistening with a sweet sugar syrup; lokma feels quite traditional, actually, to my stomach. It’s been a year since I’ve eaten my favorite dessert, and my mouth is watering. 

The lokma-makers have prepared the dough and fried it in front of visitors. When the lokma arrives, I’m salivating and finally, the syrup infused dough cuts through the saliva; this is fine enough dining for me. My mom opts for a Turkish coffee which, for many, is quite bitter. I’m fine with my lokma. and I go to bed full.

A Night in Cesme

Cesme Kale. Spiterman. CC BY-ND 2.0

Restaurants line Cesme harbor. Su Ertekin-Taner.

Today, the family travels to the epicenter of Cesme — about 52 miles outside of Izmir — which is not quite accurately described as Downtown Cesme because of its lack of imposing buildings. This is the most heavily populated town we’ll be visiting, with over 30,000 residents, and in some ways, the surroundings reflect this fact. We’re in a developed area, away from the sailing villages, the resorts like Altin Yunus (gold dolphin), Ilica Plaj (Ilica Beach) and Ephesus. We’re near the Cesme Marina, the shopping centers, and the Cesme castle, built to protect the town from the attacking Venetians.

The same minibus leaves us at the top, or start, of a crowded street, but one entirely without cars — it’s only people swarming here. A wide street is host to visitors and locals alike, trotting alongside jewelry stores, shoe stores, bookstores, restaurants and the most common business, gum-infused ice cream. Cesme’s gum trees are as famous as the ice cream they help produce. In the battle for most authentic gum ice cream billboards are used as ammunition, but taste is the final deciding factor in any stalemate. 

Rumeli Dondurma (ice cream) wins the taste, and therefore authenticity, battle by far. Ice cream flavors like banana, melon, pistachio and chocolate are infused with some of the gum from Cesme’s gum trees to create a chewy, stretchy consistency. The ice cream is not only flavorful, but fun to eat. 

With my banana ice cream in hand, we walk along the Cesme harbor now far from the streets teeming with people. Again, boats like the coast along with restaurants, but high end Turkish clothing shops also appear near the water. We practice some visual retail by gazing at the bright colors of clothing in store windows like those of Ipekyol and Yargici. Our feet have been reduced to automated machines by the time we’ve reached the end of the harbor strip and we soon find our way back to our grandparents’ home — by minibus, of course.

Exploring in Alacati

An artist’s shop in Alacati. Su Ertekin-Taner.

A small stone house in Alacati. CharlesFred. CC BY-NC-SA 2.0

We’re close to our final days here, and Alacati is the next stop. We’re met with a sight I have yearned to see for some time: colorful stone houses, boutique hotels, small stores, art galleries, booming bars with music and local restaurants. Because of Alacati’s alluring sights, it’s no surprise that it is the site of many weddings and engagements. 

We’re in a “Downtown” part of Alacati, an hour minibus ride away from Cesme and an hour car ride away from the Izmir airport, but I hesitate again to say so, because I still can’t associate the richness of this landscape with any sort of downtown. Just outside of this “Downtown” Alacati are several beaches like Delikli (hole-y) Koy named for the porous rocks along its shore, resorts, markets, the Alacati Marketplace mosque, Alacati’s famous windmills, dating back to 1850, and even windsurf clubs with day and even week-long excursions and lessons, but we’ve decided to be among the Alacati locals. We’re right in the middle of tight streets, nearly unwalkable due to the crowd, but lined with local flora.

The shops that we pass now have oriented themselves similar to the houses of Cesme — nearly on top of one another. Each shop has a well-marked, distinct storefront painted a different color and accompanied by an eager salesperson, ready to sell their own handicraft in many cases or just drinking tea outside socializing, as is Turkish tradition. The local artisans boast hand painted cups, hand-glass blown calligraphy pens, abstract art, handmade jewelry, and more. Still, as we dive deep into the spider webbing streets, the craft doesn’t end.

We reluctantly stop our trek through the tight streets and sit down at a popular Turkish dessert franchise, Ozsut. The cafe offers a selection of ice creams and chocolates as well as more traditional Turkish dessert like kazandibi (a burned pudding with milky and caramel flavors), sutlac (a Turkish rice pudding), and asure (another pudding of dried fruit, nuts, rice, wheat, chickpeas, and beans), but I end up opting for banana ice cream anyway.

Parting

Our trip comes to a close and so does this love letter to the three small towns I visited in West Turkey. To the Aegean sea, the small shops and their local artisans, the tight streets, the delicious fish, the morning, afternoon, and evening tea, to the minibus and the lokma, I wave goodbye — for now.

---

Su Ertekin-Taner

Su Ertekin-Taner is a first year student at Columbia University majoring in creative writing. Her love for the power of words and her connection to her Turkish roots spills into her satire, flash fiction, and journalistic pieces among other genres. Su hopes to continue writing fearless journalism, untold stories, and prose inspired by her surroundings.

24 Hours in Berlin

Getting to know the Grey City in a jiffy.

Brandenburg Gate. Wolfgang Staudt. CC BY-NC-ND 2.0

Berlin is a gritty city, and one whose food, architecture, monuments and culture can only be explained through its grave past. The German capital is a historic center of Europe as the nerve center of Nazi Germany in World War II, the greatest symbol of the Cold War’s infamous Iron Curtain and the prime city to see grand Prussian architecture. While many German institutions like monuments, transportation and active government buildings paint a picture of this historical influence, the picture of Berlin would be left incomplete without mentioning its spirited present. 

In between landmarks like the Reichstag, Germany’s Parliament building, the famous Brandenburg Gate, the remains of the Berlin wall and Prussian palaces lies an amalgamation of diverse restaurants with owners from every corner of the world, a bustling nightlife of clubs and bars, a thriving local music scene and a fashion-forward community. 

Berlin is an urban city through and through; its streets and unassuming apartment buildings (sprinkled between colorful modern architecture) comparable to those of Istanbul with an artistic, stylish flair reminiscent of New York. Live through a bit of history and a bit of present with me as I spend a day in Berlin:

---

We’re out and about today, but refuse to approach our day on an empty stomach, so we head to a local breakfast place, Erchy’s. Other days we have feasted on the cinnamony pastries of a staple German breakfast cafe, Zeit fur Brot, and even some German-made cheeses bought from German grocery store REWE when we really wanted to masquerade as Berliners. But today is Erchy’s. Their food will fuel the traveling to be done.

Swans in the palace gardens of Charlottenburg. Su Ertekin-Taner.

Graffiti near the S-bahn. Su Ertekin-Taner.

Lily pads in the palace gardens of Charlottenburg. Su Ertekin-Taner.

Charlottenberg. Rfunnell. CC BY-NC-ND 2.0

Graffiti in Berlin. Mitch Altman. CC BY-SA 2.0

We immerse ourselves in Berlin’s public transportation system after food. We use the U-bahn, the German metro, and then the S-bahn, Berlin’s fastest form of transportation to get to today’s location. At times using Berlin’s transportation reveals more about the divide of Berlin via the Berlin wall than any museum could, I think.

Altogether, the journey takes about 45 minutes from the center of East Germany. As we travel, the underground tunnels melt into cloudy skies that overlook old beige buildings decorated completely with graffiti. Berlin’s graffiti scene is one of the most vibrant in the world due to the rise of a countercultural voice during the Cold War and the Berlin Wall days. Graffiti galleries, exhibits, and alleys like the East Side Gallery, Cafe Cinema and Raw Gelande are staples of the Berlin community. As I wander through my thoughts, I sense the train stop. The trek has been made and so, we expect to be met with a reward.

The Charlottenburg Palace more than qualifies as a reward. This Baroque palace was originally constructed on behalf of Friedrich III’s (later King Friedrich I) wife Sophie Charlotte, hence the name. The interior of the palace is richly decorated, representing the height of Prussian high culture: porcelain from the royal porcelain providers KPM lines the walls, mantels are decorated with an East Asian-inspired blue and a ballroom fit with large windows divides the palace in two and overlooks the gate. The signs that guide us through the palace also note, however, the racist portrayal of Middle Eastern and East Asian figures throughout the palace’s art; the Prussian monarchy hoped to assert its dominance in every corner.

Behind the palace, we escape into nature, or a manufactured sort of nature: the Charlottenburg Palace Gardens, inspired by those of Versailles. We walk near rivers of lily pads, greet some sheep tended by palace attendants, swans and even some bike riders; the access to this park is free.

Chicken gemuse kebab at Ruyam. Su Ertekin-Taner.

Doner kebab. Addison Berry. CC BY-NC-SA 2.0

By the late afternoon, we have ambled back near the center of East Berlin. We decided on chicken gemuse doner at Ruyam Doner, which offers the best doner kebab in Berlin, though we did consider a meal at one of the many Vietnamese restaurants — established by the large Vietnamese community —in the area. The line spills out of the restaurant and into the street; everyone is craving some of this chicken gemuse. But the line quickly shortens until we are ordering our kebab of moist chicken, a spicy blend of sauces, and slightly heated bread. 

Turks are the largest ethnic minority group in Germany and often occupy entire neighborhoods like Keuzberg. Many Turks immigrate to Germany for work and stay, or accompany family members who have already migrated. As a Turk, I feel lucky to taste a part of my culture on the streets of Berlin.

A biergarten in Elisabethmarkt. digital cat. CC BY 2.0

We end our day with a biergarten, or beer garden experience. A biergarten usually consists of an open air bar filled with long tables of merry drinkers and well, their drinks; the biergarten is integral to the German citizen and open-air lover. 

We encounter fewer merry drinkers than we plan to, but still sit alongside friends talking and a couple laughing. I have a feeling we’ve arrived in the belly of Berlin, especially as more Berliners gather round, huddle up, and grab some warming alcohol during this chilly summer. 

For travelers hoping to find a warm community with a common motivation–tasting the richness of German beer–a biergarten might fulfill your needs.

---

While my day quickly ended after my biergarten experience, no two 24 hours in Berlin can be alike, so here are some more options for day adventures to quench your traveling thirst.

Reichstag building. Jurgen Matern. CC BY-SA 3.0

Monuments

Reichstag: The Reichstag, the Parliament building of Germany, actively houses Parliament meetings throughout the year, and somewhat unusually, also allows visitors year round. Attending a tour of the Reichstag means sitting in the German Parliament’s main chamber, observing interior corridors with Russian graffiti completed after the Russian capture of the building in the Battle of Berlin and receiving an oral history from World War II on.

Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe: This Holocaust Memorial, designed by New York architect Peter Eisenman, consists of 2711 concrete blocks of varying heights laid out in a rectangular city block. Visitors might note that the blocks increase in height as they approach the middle of the monument; many speculate that this effect reflects the rising fear and agony of the Jewish community throughout World War II. 

Brandenburg Gate: While this neoclassical gate was originally constructed in the 18th century, much of its history lies in the coming centuries. The Quadriga statue of horses perched on the top of the gate, for example, tells a history of Napoleon’s acquisition of Berlin. Napoleon transported the statue out of Berlin to reflect his victory over the Germans. The Brandenburg Gate also symbolizes the division between East and West Berlin during the Cold War, as the Wall was constructed within a couple meters of the gate.

World Clock at Alexanderplatz. Berthold Werner. CC BY-SA 3.0

Berlin TV Tower. A_Peach. CC BY 2.0

Public Squares

Alexanderplatz: This public square named after Russia’s Tsar Alexander I is a commercial and transportation center that houses malls, public art and even live events like concerts. Visit the world-famous World Clock that tells the time of countries around the world, watch a stark yellow tram pass by through crowded streets, or even spot the Berlin TV Tower from afar.

Potsdamer Platz: Potsdamer Platz, located about a mile from the Brandenburg Gate, contains much of the city’s culture. Find the Sony Center dome housing an international cinema, restaurants, offices, museums and the center of underground transportation here —all constructed after the destruction of the public square during World War II.

Museums

Ishtar Gate in the Pergamon Museum. Rictor Norton and David Allen. CC BY 2.0

Pergamon Museum: The Pergamon is one of the museums located on Berlin’s “Museum Island.” The building boasts its collection of classical antiquities from Middle Eastern civilizations and Islamic cultures. The most famous exhibits include the Market Gate of Miletus, the Ishtar Gate that opened up to the processional way to the eponymous capital of the Babylonian Empire and the Aleppo room featuring paneling with images of both the Islamic and Christian faith. 

Topography of Terror: Such a historical city requires a history-based museum. The museum itself is located on a plot that once housed administrative buildings of the Nazi Party, like the headquarters of the SS and the Gestapo. The one-floor museum uses exhibition panels (supported by historical documents and quotes) to guide visitors through the rise and eventual fall of the Nazi Party.

Other

Brandenburg Gate. Dennis Jarvis. CC BY-SA 2.0

Historical Walking Tour: A city with such plentiful history necessitates a historical walking tour. Sightseeing walking tours take visitors through World War II and Cold War monuments like the Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe and the demarcation of the Berlin Wall, respectively, as well as some of Berlin’s must-see sights like the Brandenburg Gate and even the Reichstag.

Cuisine

A dish from Madami. George M. Groutas. CC BY 2.0

German cuisine: While much of German food pays its cultural respect to other international cuisines, some German dishes are uniquely synonymous with German culture. Sausages accompanied by sauerkraut or potato salad, rouladen, beef-wrapped bacon, onions, mustard, and pickles and sauerbraten — a German pot roast — all grace the menus of German restaurants. Try restaurants Schwarzwaldstuben in Mitte, Max and Moritz in Kreuzberg, and Clarchens Ballhaus also in Mitte for a taste of Germany.

Vietnamese cuisine: Due to the influx of Vietnamese immigrants —many of whom were temporary contract workers — into East Berlin during the Cold War, the city offers much authentic Vietnamese food. Some high-rated restaurants include Madami located on Rosa Luxemburg Street, Monsieur Vuong on Alte Schonhauser Street, and Maison Umami on Schlesische Street.

Turkish cuisine: Much like the Vietnamese, a Turkish community slowly immigrated to Germany for work and stayed to build institutions that reflect their culture, like the Turkish restaurant. Doner, lahmacun (the Turkish Pizza) and borek (a salty Turkish pastry) proliferate in Berlin. Some high-rated restaurants include Hasir in Kreuzberg, Adana Grillhaus on Manteuffel Street, and Osmans Tochter near Helmholtz Platz.

Nightlife

Clubs: The Berlin party scene is second-to-none. Berlin’s clubs are perfect for those craving a new eccentric song to add to their playlist or a place to wow their friends for a night. Room 4 Resistance’s playlists of tunes with genres ranging from contemporary pop to industrial techno attract a diverse group of music lovers. For those music lovers who prefer to stick to a genre or two, Weeeirdos’ techno sets and Hoe_Mies’s R&B and trap music might be a perfect fit.

Biergarten: Outdoor lovers might prefer the biergarten, or beer garden, night experience. Under a dusk sky, between clumsily strung up lights, lies a comforting community of German beer lovers gathering around wooden benches and tables and self-serving the ale. Try the Prater Beer Garden, Schleusenkrug, and Golgatha Beer Garden for some biergarten action.

Bars: Whether you desire a cocktail or a dance floor for the night, a Berlin bar or two will satisfy your appetite. When in the party capital of Europe, you must do as partiers do, and partiers love to gather on these alcohol-washed oases. Gay bar Model Olfe, aesthetic Victorian-inspired bar Geist im Glas and the traditional Bar 3 are all excellent alternatives for a night of drinking and dancing.

---

Su Ertekin-Taner

Su Ertekin-Taner is a first year student at Columbia University majoring in creative writing. Her love for the power of words and her connection to her Turkish roots spills into her satire, flash fiction, and journalistic pieces among other genres. Su hopes to continue writing fearless journalism, untold stories, and prose inspired by her surroundings.

Independence and Adventure in Nordic Parenting Culture

Nordic countries’ healthcare and parenting culture allows for an unusual amount of balance and independence — for both children and parents.

Winter stroller walks are the norm. William Fortunato. CC0.

When walking through the streets of Orestad — a developing neighborhood just seven minutes by metro from central Copenhagen, Denmark — it's not uncommon to see dozens of strollers being pushed by young parents clad in thick jackets and scarves. In fact, it seems that this relatively new and modern neighborhood is populated primarily by young parents with babies and toddlers.

Meanwhile, in Oslo, Norway, streets outside of coffee shops and grocery stores are also crowded by parked strollers. Despite the same cold temperatures, the parents are nowhere to be seen. Bundled tightly, the children are left alone to enjoy the cold weather.

Although these two Scandinavian countries take slightly different approaches to monitoring young children, there is much overlap in the parenting cultures of many Scandinavian (and, more broadly, Nordic) countries. In general, many of the parenting techniques new mothers and fathers practice are rooted in a desire to teach their children independence, empathy, respect, and responsibility all while keeping them safe and healthy — even though some tips and tricks may seem shocking to outsiders.

Orestad in Copenhagen, Denmark. Jonas Smith. CC by 2.0.

Perhaps the time and care it takes to foster this unique parenting culture stems from the unusual, yet tremendously beneficial, length of parental (both maternal and paternal) leave in many Nordic countries. In Norway, for example, parents of all genders have the option to take fifteen weeks of paid leave and are paid 100% of their pay, or can take nineteen weeks at 80%. The only difference is that mothers must take the first six weeks after their child’s birth off while their partner begins their quota from week seven after birth. Similarly, in Sweden parents together are entitled to 480 days or paid parental leave (240 per parent). Days off not taken by one parent can be transferred to another if needed. 

The result of these lengthy leaves has not only fostered a deeper sense of shared responsibility by both parents, but also a greater amount of care and attention focused on personalized early childhood development. The level of shared cultural focus on and respect towards young children is just one of the many factors that contribute to the level of safety and health among infants and toddlers in Nordic countries. 

Because of their time at home, a huge staple of Nordic parenting culture is “play” time. Whether children bond with parents at home, or are encouraged to go outside the home and make friends independently, children in Nordic countries are encouraged to explore, play and discover their adventurous side from a young age. There is even a word for this: “friluftsliv.” The word can be roughly translated to “open-air living” and serves as a mantra for parents (and non-parents, too!)

“Friluftsliv” has been a norm for decades. Anders Beer Wilse. CC0.

While play in any capacity is important, play outside is considered especially beneficial to young children. Rather than being scolded for being too rambunctious or messy, children in Nordic countries are encouraged to run and climb to their hearts’ content. Even in the cold weather that pervades Nordic countries for more than half of the year, children bundle up and get outside in the fresh air. 

Rain or shine, it is completely normal to see little ones either running around outside or sleeping! Although there is a deep emphasis on energetic outdoor activities, one of the most prevalent cultural and parenting norms is to leave children outside to sleep. Even in freezing cold temperatures, children are put down to nap outside. Of course, they are accompanied by warm blankets and outerwear. Few in Scandinavia fear the cold, where doctors in Nordic countries recommend outside napping to decrease the risk of illness and infection. 

And, when children aren’t enjoying playtime with parents, bundled-up naps, or outdoor adventure, they have the opportunity to start day care as mere one-year olds. In Denmark, childcare charges are capped at 30% of the actual cost for nurseries and after school centers. In Norway, child centers are open 10 hours per day and charge a maximum fee of US $250 a month.

While having a child is a tremendous responsibility, both the healthcare benefits and parenting culture in Nordic countries allows a balance that eases some stress among new parents. Though unique, many aspects of Nordic parenting culture harness an unprecedented sense of adventure and independence in early childhood.

---

Carina Cole

Carina Cole is a Media Studies student with a Correlate in Creative Writing at Vassar College. She is an avid journalist and occasional flash fiction writer. Her passion for writing overlaps with environmentalism, feminism, social justice, and a desire to travel beyond the United States. When she’s not writing, you can find her meticulously curating playlists or picking up a paintbrush. 

A 4-day Guide to Exploring Rome

Rome is a city full of must-see sites, but it can be overwhelming to plan for. Here is a 4-day itinerary to make sure you see all the top spots, while getting the atmosphere of a unique European summer.

Rome, Italy. @Bert Kaufmann. CC BY-SA 2.0

“A European Summer” is now the aesthetic of the season, spurred on by Gen Z and Millennial creators on TikTok. It’s a fashion statement, and young American women are obsessed with flowing white dresses, gold jewelry, maxi skirts, and more. The romanticization of European cities is a perfect escape from the monotonous urban environment Stateside. 
Over the past month I was lucky enough to travel to Rome, Italy and experience a taste of the European summer that influencers have been talking about nonstop. But a trip to the Eternal City takes a lot of planning and, while it was only my first time exploring the history-rich city, I feel as though I know enough to compose an ideal 4-day itinerary — so travelers can experience every aspect of the European summer.

Day 1

As your feet touch the streets of Rome, it’s important to keep two things in mind: firstly, your primary means of transportation will be by walking, especially if your hotel accommodations are in the heart of the city itself, something I definitely recommend. So, pack footwear accordingly. Second, temperatures will be soaring. Expect around 100 degrees Fahrenheit, particularly in mid-summer.

Trevi Fountain. @NikonZ711. CC BY-SA 4.0

I recommend getting familiar with the main tourist sites on the first day. These include the Spanish Steps and Trevi Fountain, which are located relatively close to one another. Both are beautiful in the daylight and won’t eat up too much of your time. Throughout the streets it’s common to find small stores that sell gelato or souvenirs — pop into one and notice that prices are surprisingly cheap, especially compared to costs in the US. 

One of the things I enjoyed about my time in Rome was the vibrant nightlife, so make sure to take advantage of all the city has to offer when the sun sets. The temperatures are much more bearable and the streets are filled with small, lively alleyways that offer restaurants and more stores. Live music is usually always playing, especially in places where tourists are likely to flock. If you’re looking for an opportunity to wear that white flowy dress you bought just for the sake of fitting the Italian summer aesthetic, now’s the time. 

Enjoy the unique scenery and environment, and make sure to visit the Spanish Steps once more — while a great place to visit in the daytime, this tourist site comes to life at night and brings that perfect feeling of that “European Summer” the TikToks show so often. 

Day 2

Hopefully you got a full night’s rest, because day two is the perfect day to visit Vatican City — a landlocked independent country within the borders of Rome itself. It’s important to dedicate an entire day to this because, while you’ll most likely only spend a few hours exploring, the exhaustion will set in quickly.

If interested in the Vatican Museums, I strongly recommend buying tickets weeks beforehand and selecting an earlier time. The tourists that were hoping to get tickets on the day of had to wait in line for hours on end in the burning heat. Make sure to arrive early, since the museum is a little further than expected from the main entrance to Vatican City.

Vatican City. @Diliff. CC BY-SA 3.0

Once in the museum, you can either follow your tour guide or explore at your own pace, depending on the ticket you bought. You’ll get a glimpse of St. Peter’s Basilica — a famous church built in Renaissance style — from a viewing platform and get to visit the Sistine Chapel, a Catholic church located inside the Vatican Museums home to some of Michelangelo’s finest work.

Because Vatican City is a Theocratic city-state, most websites will advise you to wear a certain type of outfit. But because it’s so hot in the summer months, it’s alright to push the rules a little. Showing up in shorts and a T-shirt is completely acceptable.

Take the rest of the day to recharge. Walking to, from and around Vatican City can get very tiring, especially if it’s hot out. Stay close to your hotel for dinner, and day two will shoot past in the blink of an eye.

Day 3

Depending on whether or not you’re fascinated by Roman culture, Day 3 is dedicated to the rest of the places you weren’t able to see. For me, this included the Pantheon and Piazza Navona, which are both very close to one another. Shopping in Rome was also a pleasant experience, with such cheap prices, so I recommend it if you’re able to fit it in. 

Pantheon. @laszlo-photo. CC BY 2.0

For dinner, venture on over to Trastevere — a neighborhood filled with authentic Italian restaurants, located just across the Tiber River. The pasta and pizza is, of course, something every visitor should try. Paired with a drink of your choice, it’s hard to question why Rome is a city that attracts so many people from all over the world. The constant chatter of customers, the lights hung up as decoration, and the comfortable temperature combine to make a perfect getaway.

Day 4

Your last day in Rome should be dedicated to doing whatever you want. After three full days of so much walking, your body is bound to be tired, so just take this day as a time to relax and soak this experience in.

I know I haven’t mentioned the Colosseum — and it isn’t because it’s been forgotten. During my trip, I visited the Colosseum at night on my last full day in Rome, and it was the right decision. Of course, depending on the kind of traveler you are, this might not be your ideal itinerary but I loved seeing one of the most iconic landmarks in the world at night. I didn’t have to worry about the heat, and there is something so special about seeing the Colosseum lit up with hundreds of lights as it towers above you. It’s a great image to part Rome with, and along the road you’ll most likely pass the Roman Forum, which is impossible to miss. 

A night view of the Colosseum. @Aaron Logan. CC BY 1.0

Personally, this 4-day itinerary helped me get the feel of every aspect of the “European Summer” — from its nightlife to its famous sites, it didn’t disappoint. Depending on the type of person you are, this itinerary is bound to change but as someone who loves spontaneity and surprises, I followed this rough guide and was able to soak in all the wonders of this eternally beloved city.

---

Michelle Tian

Michelle is a senior at Boston University, majoring in journalism and minoring in philosophy. Her parents are first-generation immigrants from China, so her love for different cultures and traveling came naturally at a young age. After graduation, she hopes to continue sharing important messages through her work.