Kazakhstan's Journey From Nuclear Devastation to Disarmament

The harrowing story of Soviet nuclear testing in Semipalatinsk, Kazakhstan, and the wrangling with its legacy.

The center of the Semipalatinsk nuclear test site.Alexander Liskin.CC BY-SA 3.0.

It was the summer of 1953. Valentina Nikonchik was outside playing in Semey, a village in eastern Kazakhstan, then part of the Soviet Union. The ground suddenly trembled, and the air filled with a deafening boom that shook Nikonchik to her core. Little did she know that she had witnessed the first detonation at “the Polygon” of a thermonuclear device, a monstrous weapon of mass destruction that released a force equivalent to 400 kilotons of TNT.

West of Nikonchik’s hometown of Semey lies Semipalatinsk, the testing location where the Soviet Union’s nuclear visions were accomplished. A once-thriving region, now a desolate wasteland, has a dark history. In this Central Asian Soviet Republic, the Soviets conducted nearly 400 nuclear tests, blasting a lethal storm of radioactive isotopes into the environment and soil from 1949 to 1989. Even now, the consequences of these tests are still felt, with environmental damage and public health risks ongoing in the area. 

At a conference commemorating the ninth anniversary of the Nevada-Semipalatinsk movement, the first anti-nuclear protest movement in the USSR, statistics showing that between 500,000 and 8 million people were directly impacted by the test site’s operations were presented. The detonations, with their tragic and predictable repercussions, represent one of the twentieth century’s major ethical violations. Altogether, the total force of the nuclear explosions at Semipalatinsk equals more than 2,500 Hiroshima bombs. The long-term health effects for the region were harrowing, including an alarming spike in health issues such as miscarriages, birth deformities, and suicides blamed on “unsanitary conditions” in the area by Soviet military scientists in the following decades. What is so disturbing about these dismissals is that the same medical professionals had been performing creeping radiation tests on the villagers for years. 

The testing site, despite being uninhabited, is encircled by villages, and the major hub of Semipalatinsk lies just 160 km away. But the testing was kept secret, known only to top Communist Party officials, while anyone who spoke out against the detonations was immediately silenced. Russian scientists confessed that they failed to follow burial and nuclear material protection protocols, as they thought that no one would be in the area. The newly independent Kazakh government officially acknowledged 1,323,000 people as negatively affected by nuclear testing in 1992. However, just 1,057,000 of them received radiation passports, leaving over a quarter of those affected without the requisite documentation. From 2003 to 2017, a $30.5 million reimbursement was intended to give relief to over 700,000 passport holders. Divided between them, a pittance of only only $40 was allocated to each individual each year.

Map of Semipalatinsk Nuclear Test Range, Area “N”. Martin Trolle Mikkelsen.CC BY 2.0.

In 1990, a year before independence, the International Physicians for the Prevention of Nuclear War (IPPNW) and Kazakh poet Olzhas Suleimenov’s Nevada-Semipalatinsk Movement banded together and pushed Soviet leader Mikhail Gorbachev’s to issue declaration of a nuclear testing moratorium. Kazakhstan seized the opportunity to declare independence the same year and promptly closed down the infamous Semipalatinsk plant. Then, the nation went further, renouncing its inherited position as the world's fourth-largest nuclear weapons owner, and relinquishing its stockpile.

Despite this, the inhabitants go about their regular lives, seemingly unaware of the danger that surrounds them. They swim and fish in the lakes, graze their herds and pick wild strawberries all while being exposed to the poison lurking in the ground and air. However, the danger does not end there. The area will remain a bleak wasteland for millennia, poisoned with plutonium, strontium, and cesium, unfit for human habitation. Residents continue to graze their animals and collect contaminated scrap metal on the polluted land as the 7,065 square mile region is devoid of barriers, fencing, and warnings reminding people of its radioactive status.

Semey, once a thriving city, has suffered the brunt of the devastation. While acute blasts of radiation produced immediate harm, repeated modest doses of radiation over time can accumulate to cause great damage. The wind on the Kazakh steppe has brought the radioactive fallout to nearby settlements, amplifying the impact. The repercussions of nuclear testing have been passed down to future generations as a result of radiation-induced mutations in the population’s chromosomes. As a result, the region’s life expectancy is seven years lower than the national average due to a rise in the prevalence of cancer, thyroid sickness, and birth abnormalities. Tolkyn Bulegenov, Vice President of Semey Medical University, confirms that “in the zones adjacent to the test site, one can encounter 10 to 15% more malignant thyroid and blood malignancies - hematological blastoma, leukosis, lymphoma, and chronic leukemia - than in other regions of Kazakhstan.”

Semipalatinsk Nuclear Test, the effect of radiation on the fetus. Perrona Patrick André Perron.CC BY 3.0.

The late 1980s saw a glimmer of hope for the people of Kazakhstan. As the world was introduced to Gorbachev’s nuclear testing moratorium, the Nevada-Semey movement was born on Kazakh soil with a mission to shut down the Semipalatinsk polygon. Kazakhstan destroyed its inherited weapons testing infrastructure and disposed of the remaining vulnerable nuclear material with the cooperation of foreign partners, including the United States.

On August 29, 1991, President Nursultan Nazarbayev signed the proclamation closing the test site, popularly known as the Polygon, which marked a watershed point in Kazakhstan’s recent history. As part of the Nunn-Lugar Cooperative Threat Reduction Program, the United States collaborated with Kazakhstan between 1995 and 2001 to seal 13 boreholes and 181 tunnels at the test site. From 2012 to 2019, the National Nuclear Security Agency and the Netherlands led two major radiological security operations in Kazakhstan, securing approximately 13,000 radioactive sources from the National Nuclear Center and the Mangystau Atomic Energy Complex. Kazakhstan confirmed its commitment to a nuclear-free world in 2021, in accordance with the Treaty on the Prohibition of Nuclear Weapons.

Kazakhstan’s commitment to disarmament has allowed the nation to serve as an example of a responsible state that has relinquished its nuclear weapons, setting a global precedent for responsible statehood. Kazakhstan has created an environment conducive to the formulation of a multifaceted foreign policy by abandoning its nuclear weapons and closing the world's most extensively used nuclear test site, allowing the country to collaborate with China, Central Asia, Europe, and the United States. While each nuclear-armed state faces unique problems, Kazakhstan’s peaceful approach to disarmament has encouraged many, and its lessons serve as a guide for other countries seeking a similar path.

TO GET INVOLVED:

The Nuclear Threat Initiative (NTI) is a nonprofit global security organization focused on reducing nuclear and biological threats imperiling humanity. You can learn more about NTI and its records on nuclear disarmament in Kazakhstan here.

Togzhan Kassenova’s Atomic Steppe: How Kazakhstan Gave up the Bomb explains Kazakhstan’s denuclearization process in detail. Kassenova’s book explains how Kazakhstan’s leadership considered security interests as well as economic, political, and diplomatic priorities when making the decision to give up nuclear weapons. You can learn more about Atomic Steppe on Amazon here.

Hope Zhu

Hope is a Chinese international student at Wake Forest University in North Carolina studying sociology, statistics, and journalism. She dreams of traveling around the globe as a freelance reporter while touching on a wide range of social issues from education inequality to cultural diversity. Passionate about environmental issues and learning about other cultures, she is eager to explore the globe. In her free time, she enjoys cooking Asian cuisine, reading, and theater.

Japan’s Population Crisis Hits a Record Low

Japanese birth rates are falling exponentially, and it could have major effects on the country’s economy. 

Harajuku District in Japan. @paulkrichards. Instagram

Many around the world consider Japan a futuristic country, a view drawn from its creative technology and its unique culture. A popular destination for tourists all around the world, this East Asian country makes up 1.6% of the world’s population with its approximately 125 million residents. 

However, this number is set to rapidly decline as Japan teeters on the precipice of a population crisis. Its Prime Minister has issued a dire warning, saying that the country is “on the brink of not being able to maintain social functions” due to the falling birth rate. Japan has one of the highest life expectancies in the world, which means that most will grow old and require care from others, but the workforce is shrinking as  aren’t enough young people to fill the gaps in Japan’s stagnating economy.

Why is this? To use simple terms, Japanese people are having fewer babies. Women are postponing their marriages and rejecting traditional paths to focus on their professional lives, and the percentage of women who work in Japan is now higher than ever. However, there are also fewer opportunities for young people, especially men, in the country’s economy. Since men are still widely viewed as the breadwinners of the family, a lack of good jobs would also mean the men would avoid having children — and settling down — knowing they can’t afford it. With Japan’s high cost of living, it adds more reason for couples to steer clear of having a family.

The problem has only gotten worse since the Covid pandemic. In 2021, the birth rates in Japan declined to around 805,000 — a figure that was not expected until 2028. With much of the population choosing to focus on their careers instead, this number will only continue to fall. 

In the early stages of the pandemic, there were jokes circulating that the lockdowns would cause another baby boom. However, the opposite came true. Japan experienced a reduction in birth rates, as well as other countries such as Taiwan and China — to an estimated 1.07 children per woman.

Japan’s population pyramid in October 2021. Kaj Tallungs. CC BY-SA 4.0 

There are more and more elderly people in the country and not enough working-age adults to support them. The economy is at risk. But Japan’s Prime Minister Fumio Kishida promises to combat the low birth rate.

With Japan “standing on the verge of whether we can continue to function as a society,” Kishida urges the national government to focus on policies regarding children and ramp up child-related programs, saying it “cannot wait and cannot be postponed.” He wants the government to double its spending on child-related programs and in April, he will launch a new Children and Families government agency to help in the endeavor.

This agency will unify policies across multiple government ministries to better deal with issues that concern children, such as declining birth rates, child poverty, and sex crimes. Kishida has plans to double the budget if necessary, without elaborating.

In the mid 1990s, the Japanese government launched a series of programs addressing their country’s low fertility, hoping to provide parenting assistance through increasing provision of childcare services and advocating for a better work-life balance. And in the 2010s, fertility policies were incorporated into Japan’s macroeconomic policy, national land planning, and regional and local planning.

Despite all these efforts, however, Japan’s goal to boost population remains unsuccessful. By forming the new agency, Kishida hopes these problems will be taken more seriously.

One thing remains clear, though — Japan is facing a population crisis. And if birth rates keep falling, the country’s economy will struggle under its effects.

Michelle Tian

Michelle is a senior at Boston University, majoring in journalism and minoring in philosophy. Her parents are first-generation immigrants from China, so her love for different cultures and traveling came naturally at a young age. After graduation, she hopes to continue sharing important messages through her work.

Underground Schools for Women and Girls in Afghanistan

The Taliban reconquest of Afghanistan brought an education ban for women and girls, but secret schools have emerged.

A burqa-clad woman in Kabul in September 2021, Milad Hamadi for the Tasnim News Agency. Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons

The life of every Afghan citizen changed on August 15, 2021, when Taliban forces seized the capital city of Kabul and, for the first time in decades, were able to impose the group’s severe intolerance on the whole nation. Those most affected have been young girls and women, who are limited in going about their daily lives and barred from many activities that they previously were able to enjoy freely. As the Taliban continue to ban women from  schools and universities, a new generation of young Afghan girls are left wondering what their future will look like. Recently underground school operations have opened up, taking place both virtually and in person, allowing many Afghan girls the ability to continue their education despite the repression, keeping hope alive in a society that faces deep political and societal challenges.

According to the Taliban’s Minister for Higher Education, Neda Mohammad Nadeem, women are not allowed to go to school because they weren’t following the rules of how “proper ladies” should act in a public setting, including not adhering to the Emirate’s strict dress code. However, this issue transcends  the regime’s hijab policy. The Taliban use religion to justify their strict policies, arguing that it goes against Islamic principles to have girls and women go to school, even stating that the sciences as a whole are no place for them. The Taliban is able to impose its own interpretation of Sharia Law, the traditional Islamic legal code, which is known for including strict guidelines for how girls and women should live. Many professional Muslim scholars have rebutted the Taliban, asserting there is no justification for banning women from having an education, including that “gender-based denial of education has no religious justification.”

An Afghan girl in Oruzgan Province, John Scott Rafoss. Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons

Despite these obstacles, women and young girls across Afghanistan are fighting for their rights not only to obtain a just education, but to be recognized as important parts of society and claim back their dignity and honor. In an effort to help girls achieve their dreams and achieve literacy, underground schools have started taking shape across the nation, even holding virtual classes. In order to keep an entire generation of young girls thriving, parents are finding alternative means, going as far as risking their lives to create a hidden education system that will serve as primary education and even providing university level courses for older students. One of the pioneer women behind this movement, Sodaba Nazhand, told The Associated Press that “when the Taliban wanted to take away the rights of education and the rights of work from women, I wanted to stand against their decision by teaching these girls.” 

While girls and women are able to pursue knowledge and obtain skills through these underground schools, there is much fear among family members and the students themselves, who know the consequences of getting caught disobeying the Taliban. Several of these schools are held virtually for safety and easier access, although not everyone has access to electronics or wifi. Taliban rule has led to  widespread poverty across Afghanistan, leaving families and individuals unable to support themselves economically, making internet access unattainable for many. Some schools have even begun to be held in person, as houses become secret classrooms. Nafeesa is a young girl that attends an underground school in her small, rural village in the Eastern part of the country. When asked by reporters how she is able to get away with attending a secret school, she said that “Boys have nothing to do in the kitchen, so I keep my books there. If my brother comes to know about this, he will beat me." Despite the fear that she feels in going against rigidly enforced new social norms, Nafeesa and many others continue to defy the status quo to make a better future for themselves, using education as a portal to freedom. 

TO GET INVOLVED

Women For Women International - Women For Women has created an Afghanistan program to help women in the nation discover their power and ways they can pursue a brighter future ahead. For more info, click here.

Malala Fund - Malala Yousafzai has created an Afghanistan fund that provides on-the-ground support to help young girls access education. To learn how you can donate, click here.

Kimberly Hidalgo Hernández

Having obtained a MA in International Policy, Kimberly seeks to bridge the gap between global development and government legislation. Growing up between the United States and Spain, she believes that travel is the best way to discover yourself and understand the world. Her goal is to promote a deeper awareness of the effects of climate change in society and politics.

Life is Getting Harder For LGBTQ+ in China

China has had its reservations about the LGBTQ+ community in its recent history, but under Xi Jinping’s rule only traditional heterosexual values are accepted.

Shanghai Gay Pride 2009. Kris Krug. CC BY-SA 2.0

The LGBTQ+ community has never had it easy in China — from constant surveillance and intimidation to censorship and even police detention, the community has been met with constant repression. 

There was a period in the early 2000s, however, when it seemed as if things might have been changing. Gay clubs were flourishing, and there was a feeling of acceptance that came along with increased social services. Those days are gone, and the reality has become quite different under the rule of President Xi Jinping as China slowly becomes a more conservative country.

But it hasn’t always been like this. While many believe heterosexual traditions have been a hallmark of Chinese culture throughout history, this was not the case before the 19th century: centuries ago homosexuality wasn’t just accepted, but celebrated. One text entitled, “Passions of the Cut Sleeve” depicted an emperor and a servant sharing a bed. The emperor wanted to get out of bed, and to avoid disturbing the servant’s sleep, the emperor cut the sleeve the servant was resting on. While this act could be interpreted differently, the standard interpretation is that  it was done out of love.

This work was celebrated by scholars and is proof that the intolerance of homosexuality has never been a traditional aspect of Chinese culture. But when Communist Party Chairman Mao Zedong rose to power later on in the 20th century, there was a sudden shift in attitude. 

LGBTQ Flag. Pacific Northwest National Laboratory - PNNL. CC BY-NC-SA 2.0

He encouraged China to embrace modernity. That meant exposing the country to Western culture, which also included exposure to Western concepts of sexuality and, therefore, Western homophobia. Mao imported the notion that homosexuality was an illness and that same-sex attraction was a mental disorder that needed to be cured. Up until 1997, men caught engaging in homosexual acts could be persecuted with charges  of “hooliganism,” a crime that that offended against public order.

Today being gay is not illegal in China, but that doesn’t mean the negative stigma around homosexuality has changed. When Xi Jinping became president in 2012, the old Western-inspired values on what a family should look like have come to dominate society once again, to the point where the pressure to remain in the closet became almost unbearable.

There are many people in the Chinese LGBTQ+ community who refuse to fake their “straightness” and have therefore left their homeland. This is known as “sexual migration” and mostly occurs due to both external and internal pressures. 

Internet platforms have also stepped in to enforce the party line. The popular TV show “Friends” had a plotline involving main character Ross’ lesbian ex-wife which has been censored in China, along with any other mentions of the LGBTQ+ community and sex. The gay-dating service app Grindr has also been removed from China’s Apple app store. 

China is growing more suspicious and even hostile to homosexuality, labeling it as a “Western influence.” Being bisexual, gay, or trans is ironically seen as a Western  import and is increasingly not accepted. Homosexuality may have been decriminalized in 1997, but is still very much confined to the shadows.

Michelle Tian

Michelle is a senior at Boston University, majoring in journalism and minoring in philosophy. Her parents are first-generation immigrants from China, so her love for different cultures and traveling came naturally at a young age. After graduation, she hopes to continue sharing important messages through her work

5 Islands to Visit in Indonesia Not Named Bali

While the famed island has its charms, visitors have largely overlooked the rest of this sprawling archipelago’s natural and cultural riches.

So much of Indonesia, such as Bunaken Island near Sulawesi, is relatively undiscovered – for now. Niek van Son. CC BY 2.0

Indonesia is made up of over 17,000 islands – yet the world’s attention focuses squarely on Bali. Yet, from the enchanting temples of Java to the crystal-clear waters of Raja Ampat, Indonesia’s less-known islands hold endless opportunities for exploration and enlightenment.

An orangutan sighting is all but assured in the jungles surrounding Sumatra’s Bukit Lawang. Hugo van den Bos. CC BY 2.0

Sumatra

Indonesia’s westernmost island offers up excitement and relaxation in equal quantities. The languid shores of Toba, the world’s largest volcanic lake, beckon visitors to its isolated islands, gushing waterfalls and unique Batak subculture. Elsewhere on Sumatra, adventure reigns supreme: track down orangutans in Bukit Lawang, surf mammoth waves on the surrounding Mentawai and Nias Islands or hike up the still-active Mount Sibayak volcano. Travelers can finish by polishing off some of Sumatra’s famously delicious cuisine in Medan and Padang, Indonesia’s most acclaimed culinary capitals.

As phenomenal as Raja Ampat’s diving is, the above-water scenery stuns just as much. Max Mossler. CC BY 2.0

Raja Ampat

Located just off the coast of New Guinea in Indonesia’s far east, this under-the-radar archipelago provides visitors with some of the most pristine reefs in the world. Skilled divers dream of traveling to these idyllic islands for all-but-assured sightings of sharks and manta rays and the discovery of over 1,000 different species of fish and coral. The views on land rival the bounty below, with a hike up Piaynemo Island revealing a dreamscape of verdant forests and crystal-clear waters obscured only by the flight of tropical birds.

The magic of Java best comes alive at Borobudur as the sun rises over the temple. Justine Hong. CC BY 2.0

Java

The world’s most populous island, Java remains the heartbeat of Indonesia. Frenetic and colorful Jakarta is a mixing bowl of Indonesia’s countless cultures as it attracts locals from every island. When the capital’s crush of humanity gets a bit too much, travelers can escape to atmospheric Yogyakarta, renowned as Indonesia’s cultural and artistic capital. Just outside of town are the architectural masterpieces of Borobudur, the world’s largest Buddhist temple, and Prambanan, Indonesia’s largest Hindu temple. Nature lovers appreciate a morning hike up Mount Bromo, while divers enjoy getaways to the tropical paradise of Karimunjawa.

Komodo dragons can be found nowhere else in the wild other than Flores and its neighboring islands. Adhi Rachdian. CC BY 2.0

Flores

Known by intrepid travelers for its Komodo dragons, Flores gives visitors a glimpse of an untouched Indonesian island tailor-made for adventure. Tracking down the region’s best-known inhabitant is a must, but travelers would be remiss to skip Flores’ less popular attractions. Padar Island’s coves alternate between white, black and pink sand, with their gorgeous beaches offering the perfect respite after a long day of trekking. Mount Kelimutu also revels in multihued splendor, with the volcano’s three lakes ranging in color from an intense red to cool shades of green and blue. Intense hikers will adore the overnight trek to Wae Rebo, an excursion through dense jungles to a traditional village set up by the Manggarai tribe.

Funeral ceremonies in Tana Toraja are a cause for celebration, as death is the most revered state of one’s life. Arian Zwegers. CC BY 2.0

Sulawesi

Sulawesi holds an incredibly broad array of activities within its oddly shaped borders. The clear highlight is Tana Toraja, a highland region studded with rice paddies and filled with houses bearing a close resemblance to boats. The area is home to the world's most elaborate and celebratory funeral rituals, which mesmerize all who attend. Visitors take a bumpy ride into the jungles of Lore Lindu National Park to discover monkeys, snakes, and tropical flora and fauna that remain untouched by the outside world. A journey to Rammang Rammang passes by the sweeping limestone cliffs of the world’s third largest “stone garden,” and the Togean, Wakatobi and Bunaken Islands further entice with world-class diving opportunities.

Stephen Kenney

is a Journalism and Political Science double major at the University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill. He enjoys sharing his passion for geography with others by writing compelling stories from across the globe. In his free time, Stephen enjoys reading, long-distance running and rooting for the Tar Heels.

A Village in India Fights Female Infanticide and Deforestation

How a village leader changed the perception of women in India, one tree at a time.

Girls connecting with the trees in Piplantri. Photo provided by Piplantri Village.

Every time a baby girl is born in Piplantri, India, the village gathers together to plant 111 trees in her honor. The custom began a couple of years ago, when former village leader, Shyam Sundar Paliwal was forced to ponder the fleetingness of life after his daughter tragically passed away at a young age.

Piplantri and other villages in the area were facing two crises that greatly affected the quality and value of life. One issue was social: a high rate of female infanticide. Traditionally, female births were considered a burden on the family. The parents of a girl are expected to provide a dowry to her husband’s family, which can be a big financial undertaking. Additionally, daughters were married off well before the age of 18, before they could obtain an education. 

Piplantri and its surrounding villages faced environmental hardships as well. The villages in the Rajasthan area are suffering from deforestation with the increase of marble mining. 

Paliwal decided to confront these issues with a plan that can be broken down into three words: “Daughter, Water, Trees.” 

To counter the pessimism around the birth of a baby girl—and improve the lives of the daughter and her family—the village raises money for a “trust” every time a girl is born. The family is to contribute one third of the fund, which is set aside until the girl turns 20. This alleviates the problem of the financial burden of a dowry. 

In order for the family to receive the money, they must sign an affidavit agreeing not to marry their daughter until she is of the legal age of 18 and has received a proper education. 

To solve the deforestation problem, the village gets together to plant 111 trees in the girl’s honor. As a part of the contract, the family agrees to take care of those 111 trees. Hopefully the trees will help the spread of water along the land. 

And the scheme gets even better. The fruit trees being planted were beginning to attract a lot of termites. In order to prevent infestation, the villagers planted many aloe plants to protect the trees. The villagers can harvest and sell the aloe—which has incredible healing benefits—and make a profit, to even further improve their quality of life. 

Although Paliwal is no longer the leader of the village, the tradition continues. Now, teachers report that there are just as many girls enrolled in school as boys. And, the village is lush and green with the hundreds of trees planted. 

Other villages are following suit. The nearby village of Tasol is trying out Piplantri’s eco-feminist village model.

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ELIANA DOFT

Eliana loves to write, travel, and volunteer. She is especially excited by opportunities to combine these three passions through writing about social action travel experiences. She is an avid reader, a licensed scuba diver, and a self-proclaimed cold brew connoisseur. 

The Trans-Siberian Railway and the Lost Art of Train Travel

The Trans-Siberian Railway, the longest railroad  line in the world, is an example of the joy that train travel can bring.

The Trans-Siberian Railway passes through Dornogovi, Mongolia. Boccaccio1. CC BY-NC-SA 2.0.

The popularity of railroad travel has diminished in the modern age. Cars allow for a freedom of movement that would be impossible on a train, and airplanes take the traveler farther and faster than railroads could dream of. The role of trains in the last 75 years has seemingly become filling in the gaps left by other forms of transportation. Stiff and awkward journeys of a few hours, connecting two cities with sterile cars and rusty tracks, are far too common, at least in the United States. But the beauty of a train trip is still attainable. Travelers can get a Eurail pass and travel across Europe, or take a private railway through rural Japan. Or they can do one better, and take the Trans-Siberian Railway.

Although it is actually a single collection of routes within the massive Russian rail network, the Trans-Siberian Railway is famous in its own right. It is the longest railway line in the world, with its longest route connecting Moscow and Vladivostok over 5,772 miles. It is also historic; the railway’s construction began in 1891 when Russia was still a Tsarist state, and it continues to be developed today.

Russia, especially Siberia, is not a place noted for its tourism. Yet the Trans-Siberian stands as a shining light in the nation’s wintery darkness. The railway is cheap, comfortable and most importantly, gives you that rollicking, adventurous spirit that only good train trips can.

A Trans-Siberian trip is also extremely flexible. One can start at St. Petersburg or Moscow and head east, or start in the east at Vladivostok or Beijing. Trains from Europe connect to the Trans-Siberian in St. Petersburg and Moscow, which means that it is possible to take a train trip from Paris all the way to the eastern coast of Asia.

The Trans-Siberian Railway in Irkutsk. Wazari Wazir. CC BY-NC-SA 2.0.

Something that differentiates railways from other modes of travel is that you can, and are supposed to, get off. The Trans-Siberian is no different. There are incredible landmarks at every stop on the journey; it’s easy to arrange to check out the ice lakes in Irkutsk or to visit the Naadam festival in Ulaanbaatar over the course of your trip.

Stepping off the train and seeing Siberia is part of the fun, and every traveler who rides the Trans-Siberian is encouraged to at least walk around a bit while the train is stopped at each station. But the train itself is an enjoyable space to live in. There are a few different options to choose from when buying tickets: most travelers choose second class (known as “kupé”), which reserves a spot in an air-conditioned car with four beds, but there is also the pricier first class (“spalny vagon”), a car with two beds, and third class (“platskartny”), an open car stuffed with fifty-four bunks. Travelers are sure to meet people in whatever class they choose, as late nights spent in the restaurant car playing cards and drinking vodka are common. Platskartny is probably the most genuine Trans-Siberian experience, as you will be surrounded by Russian commuters and travelers. But platskartny is also quite cramped and noisy, and the privilege of having a semi-private bathroom is lost. It is something to consider before you snap up a super-cheap ticket.

The Trans-Siberian Railway is not a tourist line; it is a real, historic railway that people around Asia use to see their families and take vacations themselves. As such, one should treat it and the people on it with respect. One should also do some more research about the train before planning a trip; there are many helpful websites with information about the Trans-Siberian, such as Seat 61’s extensive article. 

The Trans-Siberian Railway, overlooked to many outside Asia, is perhaps the last vestige of old-fashioned rail travel. As a consequence, it has a unique effect on the land it passes through. The secrets of Siberia would stay unseen on an airplane over 30,000 feet in the air. But n the railway, the place has no choice but to reveal itself. 

Finn Hartnett

Finn grew up in New York City and is now a first-year at the University of Chicago. In addition to writing for Catalyst, he serves as a reporter for the Chicago Maroon. He spends his free time watching soccer and petting his cat.

Why Japanese Fruit Is So Expensive

Japan places cultural importance on giving fruit gifts, leading to the cultivation of impressive fruits that can cost over $100

Square Watermelon. Joi Ito. CC BY 2.0.

In most parts of the world, fruit is a relatively common food, located in every grocery store and eaten as a healthy snack. However, fruit in Japan is expensive, much more than most would expect. Every piece of fruit is carefully grown and so much importance is placed on this that a single piece of fruit can cost over $200. 

Of these expensive fruits, melons are the most famous. Many watermelons are grown in the shape of a cube, though known as square watermelons, and others a heart. Square watermelons were originally developed to make it easier to store them, but they are still watermelons. Yubari melons are also extremely costly, well-known for their sweetness, texture and aroma. They are known as the most expensive fruit because in 2010, a pair of them were sold for $45,000 to a melon-flavored mineral water company celebrating their 10th anniversary. Muscat grapes are also very popular, each one large, plump and shiny. However, the Ruby Roman grapes are even more special. These are grown only in Ishikawa, one of Japan’s prefectures, and a single one of these grapes can cost 2,500 yen (about $18). They are easily the most expensive grapes in the world, but they are also the largest, with each grape as big as a ping pong ball. Though these grapes are also classified into superior, special superior and premium, only 1-2 bunches of grapes are considered premium per year. In 2020, a premium group of Ruby Roman grapes sold for $12,000. Another popular and expensive fruit is the Japanese strawberry. Amao strawberries, grown in Fukuoka, cost around $7 per kilogram, but they are roughly 4-5 times the size of normal strawberries. Hatsukoi no kaori, or white jewel strawberries, are 3 times the size of a regular strawberry, but a singular one of them will cost $10. This is because of the unique color that they are famous for. Hatsukoi no kaori are white strawberries with red seeds, hence the name “white jewel”. 

White Jewel Strawberry. Jed Schmidt. CC BY-NC-SA 2.0.

These impressive fruits are expensive for a reason. There is a lot of careful cultivation by the farmers who grow them so that the fruit turn out perfectly. Each farmer has their own way of meticulously taking care of their fruit plants. Some will pollinate each flower by hand, others have hats for their fruit in order to prevent sunburn and the rest  will grow the plant so that each branch or vine only has one fruit. This way, all the nutrients in the plant are directed towards that particular fruit.

Display of Expensive Fruit. The Tronodon. CC BY-NC-ND 2.0.

In addition, fruit-giving is an important part of Japanese culture. The seasons play a large cultural role, and fruit represents them because different fruits thrive better during different times of the year. It allows people to experience and appreciate what each season has to offer, from the colors of the fruit, to their aroma and, of course, taste. Beyond that, since fruit is edible, it doesn’t clutter people’s houses. Also, since the fruit is a gift, it has to look perfect. They cannot have blemishes or other imperfections, which is why so much labor and dedication is devoted to growing each luxury fruit.

Katherine Lim

Katherine is an undergraduate student at Vassar College studying English literature and Italian. She loves both reading and writing, and she hopes to pursue both in the future. With a passion for travel and nature, she wants to experience more of the world and everything it has to offer.

Macaque Monkeys Attack in Yamaguchi, Japan

Macaque monkeys, previously peaceful residents of Yamaguchi, Japan, began targeted attacks in July. 

Japanese macaque. Zweer de Bruin. CC BY-NC-ND 2.0. 

The city of Yamaguchi, Japan boasts historic temples, invaluable art, stunning gardens and macaque monkeys. Macaque monkeys have lived in highly populated areas of Japan since as early as the 1600’s, and up until recently, Japanese macaques have had very few concerning interactions with people.

However, since July 8th, more than fifty people in Yamaguchi have been attacked by the monkeys. City officials and experts say nothing like this has ever happened, and they even initially thought it was only one crazed monkey committing all of the attacks. But even after the monkey in question was euthanized, the attacks continued, leading the city to realize that an entire band of monkeys had inexplicably started attacking humans after years of peaceful  coexisting. Fortunately, as of late July, no serious injuries have occured, but city officials have taken to tranquilizing threatening macaques, as they are not deterred by food or traps. 

What makes these unprecedented attacks even more puzzling is the fact that they seem very coordinated, with an explicit goal, even if that goal is unclear to the people of Yamaguchi. While minor injuries have resulted from the attacks, some of the attacks appear to be attempted kidnappings. Additionally, the monkeys began by targeting primarily young children and older women. While over the past few weeks they have begun attacking adult men as well, these demographics are so specific that it begs the question: what is their intent? Unfortunately, no one knows yet. 

A mother in Yamaguchi recalls a monkey having broken into her home, and attempting to drag her child away. She noted that the monkey tried to take the child with it. The monkeys have been entering homes, and even lurking outside of nursery schools. While there have been occasional macaque attacks in the past, they primarily live in harmony with humans, and a planned effort like this is unprecedented. 

Two Japanese macaques. Etsuko Naka. CC BY 2.0. 

In terms of the history of Japanese macaques, as noted they have lived in Japan since as early as the 17th century. They are also incredibly intelligent animals, making the decision of the Yamaguchi officials to euthanize one a difficult call. Macaques have opposable thumbs and even sometimes walk on two legs. They are known for doing very human-like activities, such as bathing and relaxing in groups in hot springs in Japan. This habit, as well as the habit of washing their food in the ocean, was learned behaviors within the group, and previously, scientists thought only humans passed traditions and behaviors through generations. 

Despite the monkey attacks, which will hopefully come to an end soon, Yamaguchi has many sites to visit and a fascinating history. It is known for its temples, such as the Rurikoji Temple and Joeiji Temple. It is also a coastal town known for having high quality seafood and sake, which is perfect for travelers interested in food. Additionally, Yamaguchi is a very historic area, as the city contributed to the overthrow of the feudal era in Japan in the late 1800’s. 

Tokoji Temple in Yamaguchi, Japan. Yoshitaka Ando. CC BY-NC-ND 2.0. 

Ultimately, Yamaguchi, Japan is a beautiful and historic city which is currently experiencing turmoil at the hands of macaque monkeys. Officials hope that the situation will be resolved soon, and once it is, consider adding Yamaguchi to your travel list.

Calliana Leff

Calliana is currently an undergraduate student at Boston University majoring in English and minoring in psychology. She is passionate about sustainability and traveling in an ethical and respectful way. She hopes to continue her writing career and see more of the world after she graduates. 

Soldiers Speak: War Crimes in Myanmar

Recent atrocities and war crimes have been reported by military soldiers in Myanmar as the civil war rages on. 

Human rights protest for Burma in France. Totaloutnow. BY-NC-ND 2.0.

Myanmar has a dirty, bloody history attached to the political and military conflicts that have furiously swept through their country. The civil war that rages on adds to this history, and the war crimes and atrocities that are currently occuring illuminate the fragility and deep rooted struggles between the Burmese government and its citizens.

The civil war started in February of 2021 after Myanmar’s military powers – known as the Tatmadwa – seized the government from the elected officials of the National League for Democracy (NDL), the leading civilian party in Myanmar. The NDL had won the election in 2021 by 83%, the New York Times reports, but the military ignored these results, an action said to be linked to the government's dislike for Aung San Suu Kyi. She was the leader of the NDL who would have become the elected official of the Burmese government. 

The military coup that overthrew the government in 2021 was the event that turned the tide of the political state of the country, and now battles between military soldiers in the Tatmadaw and pro-democracy armed civil militias have erupted and raged now for almost two years. 

The military powers in charge currently – referred to as the junta: a “group of military leaders” as BBC explains – are led by General Ming Aung Hlaing. He was given power from military leaders after the coup in 2021. General Ming is responsible for the imprisonment of countless NDL members, as well as multiple ‘campaigns against ethnic minority groups’ including the Rohingya Muslim Genocide that has been taking place in Myanmar for years.

Rohingya refugees. Austcare-World Humanitarian Aid. CC BY-NC-ND 2.0.

As the war continues to rage on, Tatmadaw soldiers have started to come forward with stories of the atrocious war crimes that they were ordered to commit onto the civilians of Myanmar. BBC has reported that soldiers have admitted to “killing, torturing and raping civilians”. Large scale human rights violations have continued to occur as well, including the imprisonment of protesters, the treatment and killing of political prisoners and the treatment of civilians during wartime conflicts has sparked dialogue from the United Nations (UN). The UN reports that military powers have “directly targeted civilians” with airstrikes and attacks, and have already killed “at least 1,600 people”.

Six anonymous soldiers agreed to an interview with BBC, where they told the story of crimes against humanity, one of the few crimes that can be prosecuted at the Internationcal Criminal Court, being committed at the hands of the unstable Tatmadaw military regime. One reported that they had been told to “shoot anything they saw; another was ordered to burn down a house with civilians locked inside it. Other soldiers admitted to witnessing women being raped at gun point after soldiers believed the victims to be supporters of the People’s Defence Force (PDF) – an armed civilian militia organization. These six soldiers also discussed the energy of other members of the regime, stating that some soldiers would ‘boast’ about their crimes and actions.

Villages have burned to the ground, civilians have been abused, killed and looted. This is the current fate of the Burmese people, but the civilian militias continue to fight back and continue to push for democracy. In a country so often torn between citizens and the military state, the fate of the people of Myanmar has remained undecided. The UN states in their report that “despite spiraling violence… ‘the will of the people has clearly not been broken.’” Determined to return to a time of democratic rule, the civilian population of Myanmar continues to fight against the horrors of the military regime wishing to dominate them.

TO GET INVOLVED

The Committee Representing Pyidaungsu Hluttaw is, as Insider states, “the country’s democratically elected legislature,” the very same that was overthrown in the coup in 2021. They have a GoFundMe, which is run by the Citizen of Burma Award Organization, that uses the money to support pro-democracy protests and encourages civil disobedience against the junta military regime. To donate to the protestors, click here .

The Civil Disobedience Movement also collects donations which are sent directly to people in Myanmar to fund and support civil disobedience and protests against the government. To donate, click here.

Additional ways to GET INVOLVED can be found in Insider’s “5 Ways to Help Anti-Coup Protests on the Ground in Myanmar Right Now”. This article discusses multiple ways to donate, to educate oneself and to create constructive and far reaching conversations about the injustices befalling the Burmese people. To read more, click here.

Ava Mamary

Ava is an undergraduate student at the University of Illinois, double majoring in English and Communications. At school, she Web Writes about music for a student-run radio station. She is also an avid backpacker, which is where her passion for travel and the outdoors comes from. She is very passionate about social justice issues, specifically those involving women’s rights, and is excited to write content about social action across the globe. 

The Islands of Hong Kong: Hidden Oases Next to a Bustling City

Hong Kong is known as an urban center, but just a short ferry ride away from downtown are traditional fishing villages and untamed beaches waiting to be explored.

Tai O village, sometimes called the Venice of the Orient. Christian Junker | Photography. CC BY-NC-ND 2.0.

Hong Kong is a city of contrasts. It is where crowded slums stand next to glimmering skyscrapers, where its British legacy endures proudly with its Eastern roots, where poverty lives alongside some of the greatest riches in the world. It is also one of the most densely populated cities, with a population density of 17,311 people per square mile, packed inside a small urban center surrounded by mountains and outlying islands. 

But right outside the hustle of businesspeople lies a different side of Hong Kong. In some of the outer islands, just 10 away from Central, people live simple lives, sustaining themselves by fishing. Other islands are completely free of development and offer secluded beaches. These islands are part of the New Territories, which is included in the land that make up Hong Kong but have been largely free of development until recently. Nevertheless, it is possible to seek solitude just a short ferry ride away from the heart of Hong Kong, whether it is for a unique cultural experience or for a thrilling outdoor adventure.

Lantau Island

The Big Buddha statue, located in the interior of Lantau Island. Harald Felgner. CC BY-NC-SA 2.0. 

While Lantau Island, the largest in the special administrative region, is the location of the city’s airport and has some development on its northern side, the interior and southern side of the island holds quaint villages and massive religious monuments. In the interior of the island, one can find the Po Lin Monastery, a Buddhist monastery established in 1906, and the Big Buddha statue, a massive bronze sculpture of the Buddha completed in 1993. Taking inspiration from ancient Buddhist art forms, these sites offer a great opportunity to learn about the religion’s tradition. These sites are accessible via the Ngong Ping 360 cable car, which takes riders up the mountains from a commercial center near the airport. 

On the western coast of Lantau Island lies the village of Tai O, a fishing village partially built on stilts over the water. The villagers there hold on to their traditional way of life, resisting the integration of their lives into modern Hong Kong society. Visitors to the village can experience an authentic fishing village unaffected by the hustle of modern society. Besides trying out the local cuisine, visitors can also take a boat tour to try to spot the endangered Chinese white dolphin.

Cheung Chau Island

Tung Wan beach. Lewi Hirvela. CC BY-NC-SA 2.0. 

A 45-minute ferry ride from Central, Cheung Chau Island offers an adventure for all types of travelers. The island has a long history, being inhabited since prehistoric times. Ancient rock carvings left on the island by its earliest inhabitants have been declared as a monument of Hong Kong. In the 18th century, the island was the site of a pirate hideout. Today, the Cheung Po Tsai cave, where some booty of the pirate of the same name has been hidden, is open to the public to explore.

For those who prefer chilling on the beach, there are two public beaches on the island. Tung Wan beach, located at the heart of the island by the main village, offers soft sand, showers and changing rooms, concession stands, and all the amenities of conventional beach. The other beach, Kwun Yam, is a bit more out-of-the-way, with a smaller swimming area and coarser sand. However, it is the windsurfer’s paradise and was the training ground for Olympic windsurfing champion Lee Lai-Shan, who earned Hong Kong’s first gold medal in the 1996 Atlanta games. 

Lamma Island 

The floating fish farm rafts of Lamma Island. Trey Ratcliffe. CC BY-NC-SA 2.0.

More laid back than Lantau and Cheung Chau, Lamma Island offers an idyllic landscape. There is an extensive network of paths that takes visitors to a variety of sites around the island, from Hung Shing Yeh beach to the Tin Hau temple. That temple is a prime example of the East-meets-West theme seen throughout Hong Kong; the otherwise Eastern-style temple is guarded by two statues of Western-style lions. 

At the Sok Kwu Wan village, visitors can learn about the island’s fishing tradition. The Lamma Fisherfolks’ Village showcases the local fishing culture and history in Hong Kong for visitors. Floating fish farm rafts are spread out across the bay. A trip to Lamma cannot be completed without eating at one of the local restaurants, which serve freshly caught seafood from the island’s waters.

Po Toi and Tung Ping Chau Islands

The rocky coastline of Po Toi Island. Eddie Yip. CC BY-SA 2.0.

These two islands are for the more adventurous types of travelers. They are free from development. Po Toi, the southernmost of Hong Kong’s islands, is completely off the electrical grid, with its few buildings getting electricity from a small generator. This rocky island has many hiking trails, including one to Nam Kok Tsui, the southernmost point in Hong Kong. For the more brave, Mo’s Old House, an abandoned mansion built in the 1930s, is said to be haunted. 

Similarly, Tung Ping Chau island, in the remote far-northeast corner of the special administrative region, is also undeveloped. Unlike the rest of Hong Kong, it is composed of shale, resulting in an interesting geologic pattern. While the east side of the island has a sandy beach used for diving, the main focus of the island is its unique rock formations. The special geologic formations have made it a place of scientific interest. Today, it is a part of the UNESCO Global Geoparks network.

Bryan Fok

Bryan is currently a History and Global Affairs major at the University of Notre Dame. He aims to apply the notion of Integral Human Development as a framework for analyzing global issues. He enjoys hiking and visiting national parks.

Kyrgyzstan: From the Silk Road to the Celestial Mountains

A Central Asian country not known for its tourism, Kyrgyzstan boasts three Unesco World Heritage Sites. Each differs greatly in terms of its cultural significance, all providing different experiences for a traveler. 

Wildlife in Kyrgyzstan. Charles Fred. CC BY-NC-SA 2.0. 

Kyrgyzstan is known for its beautiful scenery; for example, there are two stunning canyons in Kyrgyzstan: the Fairy Tale Canyon and the Konorchek Canyons. The Kyrgyz people lived a nomadic lifestyle well into the 20th century, and aspects of this rich culture are still recognizable in architecture today. For example, a traveler to Kyrgyzstan can see a Bozui house—a type of architecture distinct to the Kyrgyz—and learn how it is built. In terms of the UNESCO World Heritage Sites, the three sites are deeply historically and culturally significant, as well as breathtaking.

1. The Chang'an-Tianshan Corridor of the Silk Road

Section of the Great Wall of China in Kyrgyzstan. Matt Barber. CC BY 2.0. 

The Chang’an-Tianshan Corridor is a section of the Silk Road, the most used collection of trade routes during ancient times, which primarily connected China with countries in Europe, the Middle East and East Africa. The Chang'an-Tianshan Corridor was named a UNESCO World Heritage Site in June of 2014, due to the historical significance of the Silk Road, which had been used until as late as the 16th century. The Chang’an-Tianshan Corridor in Kyrgyzstan is an especially interesting and important sector of the Silk Road due to its beauty, rocky terrain and historical significance. The Chang’an-Tianshan Corridor was used from the 4th through 16th century to transport mostly luxury goods, with its use beginning to facilitate trade between the Chinese and Roman empires. It was also very difficult to navigate due to its massive peaks and valleys—the climate of which ranges from snowy to arid to humid. In addition to natural sites, the corridor contains many cultural and historical destinations. Parts of the Chang’an-Tianshan Corridor run along the Great Wall of China. Additionally, there are several Buddhist temples, ancient palaces and tombs along the corridor. 

2. The Sulaiman-Too Sacred Mountain

View of Sulaiman Too-Sacred Mountain from Osh. Christian Gawron. CC BY-SA 2.0.

Also located on the Silk Road, the Sulaiman-Too Sacred Mountain (located next to the city of Osh) was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2009. The Sulaiman-Too Sacred Mountain has been regarded for hundreds of years as a sacred destination, primarily in Islam, but also in religions and belief-systems that contain only some aspects of the Islamic faith. The mountain contains two reconstructed mosques from the 16th century, caves with ancient petroglyphs and many other sites for worship—17 of which are still in use today. One of the main non-Islamic groups which has historically worshiped at the Sulaiman-Too Sacred Mountain is the cult of the horse, which is reflected in much of the cave art. 

3. The Tien-Shan Mountains

The Tien-Shan Mountains. Bruno Rijsman. CC BY-SA 2.0.

“Tien-Shan” in Chinese means “celestial.” The mountains may have gotten their name from their extremely high peaks; the highest points of the Tien-Shan mountains are also the highest points in all of Kyrgyzstan. The peaks in Kyrgyzstan were officially declared a World Heritage Site in 2016, although the parts of the mountains in China had been named a World Heritage Site in 2013. The Tien-Shan Mountains are mostly known for their diverse wildlife and for being home to several ethnic groups such as the Uyghur people and various Buddhist sects. While the oppression of the Uyghur people is not nearly as severe in Kyrgyzstan as it is in China, in recent years, there have been reports of violence from the Kyrgyz majority towards the Uyghur, as well as governmental interference in Uyghur political organizing. Despite Kyrgyzstan’s treatment of the Uyghur people, the Tien-Shan Mountains remain the home of many Uyghur people in the country. The mountains are covered in glaciers, many of which are threatened by climate change. This could change the entire geological landscape of the Tien-Shan mountains. Wildlife found on Tien-Shan include snow leopards and the Himalayan snowcock. Out of the three World Heritage Sites in Kyrgyzstan, the Tien-Shan Mountains is the most focused on the nature of Kyrgyzstan as opposed to the history featured in the other two sites.

Calliana Leff

Calliana is currently an undergraduate student at Boston University majoring in English and minoring in psychology. She is passionate about sustainability and traveling in an ethical and respectful way. She hopes to continue her writing career and see more of the world after she graduates. 

Discover Cambodia’s Beauty Despite Dark Political Past

Though still recovering from Pol Pot’s regime, Cambodia contains numerous sites and monuments worth traveling for.

Angkor Wat Reflection. Radek Kucharski.  CC BY2.0.

Cambodia is known for its massive and brilliantly crafted religious temples, vast untouched forests and vibrant city life. What some may not know is Cambodians have and are still recovering socially, economically and politically from one of recent history's most horrific events: the reign of the Khmer Rouge. 

Under the rule of dictator  Pol Pot, the Khmer Rouge was a Marxist regime created in 1975. Whether from execution, starvation, exhaustion and disease, more than 2 million civilians died during the genocide. Despite the defeat of the Khmer Rouge on January 7, 1979 by the Vietnamese military, Cambodians struggled to regain their political and economic prosperity. General poverty rates have lingered around 35% which is a great improvement from the 50% at the initial end of the events. Those who experienced the genocide are now be in their 50s, and thus Cambodians are still living with the traumatic experiences they went through.

With that said, the Southeast Asian country has shown great perseverance and progress towards a bright future. Now, Cambodian citizens celebrate their traditional cultures and welcome outsiders to experience the atmosphere and history of their country. Here are a few of the most popular spots.

1. Angkor Wat

Said to be the largest religious monument in the world, Angkor Wat is a vast Buddhist temple that touches over 400 acres of land and comprises over 1,000 buildings. Cambodia is home to this cultural wonder of the world and is a destination that provides both visual beauty and an introduction to Cambodia’s rich history and culture. 

Angkor Wat has five lotus-like towers rising 65 meters up, being the first part of the temple visitors tend to notice. The awe-inspiring scenery continues with carvings throughout the inside of the temple. Celestial dancers, known as apsaras in Khmer (Cambodia’s national language), helped reintroduce Apsara dance in Cambodia. Carvings of war, spiritual journeys and everyday life explain Cambodia’s hardships and relationship with culture and religion. Ta Prohm, also known as the Tomb Raider Temple due to its appearance in the 2001 film, and Angkor Thom are other beautifully architected sights nearAngkor Wat.  

2. Banteay Srei 

Banteay in Angkor. Juan Antonio Segal. CC BY 2.0.

Known as the Temple of the Women, Banteay Srei is sacred in Angkor. Though it is much smaller in size than Angkor Wat, it contains some of Cambodia's most delicate carvings. Images of women holding lotus flowers and memorable stories of the Hindu religion are depicted here. Banteay Srei is still a place for women to visit and observe to feel inspired and appreciated, as well as a place where anyone can experience its beauty and history.

3.  Bayon

Bayon Temple Ruins in Cambodia. Uwe Schwarzbach.  CC BY-NC-SA 2.0.

This Buddhist Temple is home to 216 smiling, peaceful faces carved into towers. Numerous other carvings can be seen representing the experiences of the Khmer people. Bayon temple allows visitors to understand the goals and journey of the Khmer Empire and is a great temple to visit if you are interested in Buddhism and appreciating Cambodia’s past.  

4. Phnom Penh

Bustling Phnom Penh. Baron Reznik. CC BY-NC-SA 2.0.

Phnom Penh is the capital of Cambodia andhome to vibrantly colored buildings, tight streets with motorbikes, friendly locals and more architectural beauty. A main mark of the Cambodian experience, Phnom Penh is affordable and easy-going—a great way to submerge yourself in the country's culture. here are some upscale restaurants and locations, but overall, Phnom Penh remains its gritty, lively and romantically chaotic self. 

5. Krong Siem Reap

Angkor Wat in Krong Siem Reap. Kim Seng. CC BY-NC-ND 2.0.

Krong Siem Reap is another other major city destination in Cambodia. Krong Siem Reap is a staple of Cambodia’s religious history, being home to Angkor Wat, the ruins of Banteay Srei and Ta Prohm. Locals treat travelers as if they have been life-long friends, and travelers will get the chance to explore much of Cambodia’s Buddhist history as long as remaining respectful. 

Krong Siem Reap is also known for its exquisite food scene. Cafes offer coffee, teas and delicious local food dishes with some even offering vegetarian and vegan-friendly options. Restaurants to grab an authentic and budgeted meal are around every corner. 

6. Kirirom National Park

Kirirom National Park Rest Area. Arie. CC BY2.0. 

Located mostly in Phnom Sruoch District, Kirirom National Park is covered with deep forestry and high elevation. Kirirom, meaning “Mountain of Joy,” is loved for its high elevation pine forests and many glistening waterfalls. Along with vast, isolated hiking trails, the endangered sun bears, pileated gibbons and tigers can be found living in the forests. 

7. Koh Tonsay

Koh Tonsay. James Antrobus. CC BY2.0. 

Located on the country's south coast in the Gulf of Thailand, Koh Tonsay can be translated as “Rabbit Island”  and received its name because it houses the furry little creatures. It is a relatively quiet coast with a more rustic beach style. While tourists tend to visit other parts of the Cambodian coast more influenced by Chinese businesses, Koh Tonsay remains a sliver of true Cambodian land. It is not as flashy as some other beaches on the coast of Cambodia, but Koh Tonsay offers a unique and isolated beach experience. 

8. Bousra Waterfall 

Bousra Waterfall. Lucien Tan. CC BY-ND 2.0.

Located just outside of Sen Monorom, the Bousra (also spelled Bou Sra and Busra) waterfall is a three-level natural wonder offering viewing platforms at different heights and access to its base, where visitors can get misted and explore the powerful waters.

Haleigh Kierman

Haleigh is a student at The University of Massachusetts, Amherst. A double Journalism and Communications major with a minor in Anthropology, she is initially from Guam, but lived in a small, rural town outside of Boston most of her life. Travel and social action journalism are her two passions and she is appreciative to live in a time where writers voices are more important than ever.

Photo Essay: On the Ground with Waves For Water in the Philippines

While the Philippine Islands were being struck by Super Typhoon Haiyan’s wrath, Jon Rose, Founder of Waves For Water, was already hatching his plan to help.

W4W began work in the Philippines in response to Typhoon Haiyan and continues to support areas with water shortages. 

In 2013, the Philippines was hit by one of the most devastating typhoons ever recorded: Typhoon Haiyan. The natural disaster affected people throughout Southeast Asia and killed 6,300 people in the Philippines alone. Throughout the country, over 4.3 million people were affected. One major impact of the typhoon was its obstruction of access to clean water. 

To address this problem, Jon Rose, founder of Waves for Water (W4W), arrived in the Philippines ready to distribute his organization’s water filters among “forgotten pockets,” communities that were not “the focal point of major relief efforts.” His method of distribution and relief relied on the “train-the trainer, local-based model” in which W4W organizers “empower” and “facilitate” for local people rather than decide “who gets what, when, where and how.” Two years after the typhoon, W4W established an office in the Philippines, where it is currently registered as a non-profit organization. Since 2015, W4W has built 66 rainwater catchment systems and provided over a million Filipinos with access to clean water. In December of 2021, the organization helped to address the devastation caused by Hurricane Odette in Siargao, Philippines through a partnership with Billabong. Currently, W4W is providing aid for those impacted by Tropical Depression Agaton, which has displaced 1.9 million people in Visayas and Mindanao, Philippines. You can contribute to this specific effort here. 

W4W’s humanitarian efforts are not limited to the Philippines. Since its inception in 2009, the organization has made an impact in 44 countries, including Mozambique, Ecuador, Sierra Leone and Chile, and has helped 3.75 million people gain reliable access to clean drinking water. W4W currently has 24r active programs helping to address water access issues. These programs seek to provide aid to citizens of Ukraine, Australia, Haiti and Guatemala. You can learn more and help out here.

Jon Rose

As a pro surfer of 13 years, Jon Rose traveled the world in pursuit of perfect waves. It was this passion that led him to development of Waves for Water in 2009. He hopes to see W4W enlist and empower travers to help solve the world water crisis.

5 Captivating Silk Road Sites to Visit in Central Asia

Stretching from China and the Far East to Europe and the Middle East, the Silk Road was once the world’s most important trade route.

The Mir-i-Arab Madrassa in Bukhara, Uzbekistan, showcases the Islamic architecture so prevalent along the Silk Road. Marco Verch. CC BY 2.0

It opened in 130 B.C. and remained in use for the next 1,500 years, leading to the rise of countless cities along its path. Though their significance has faded, the grandeur of Central Asia’s Silk Road cities continues to amaze all who visit.

1. Samarkand

A view of the Registan and its three madrassas in Samarkand, Uzbekistan. K3nna. CC BY 2.0

Undoubtedly the highlight of Uzbekistan, Samarkand was once one of the world’s premier cities. After his visit in 1333, the explorer Ibn Battuta called Samarkand “one of the greatest and finest of cities, and most perfect of them in beauty.” The city’s elegance is still revealed in the Registan, a courtyard surrounded by three marvelously beautiful madrassas, or Islamic schools. The distinctive tile work that covers the area’s buildings remains of the best examples of Islamic architecture in the world. Samarkand is also home to the Bibi-Khanym Mosque, once one of the largest in the Islamic world. Much of the mosque was destroyed by an earthquake in 1897, but glimpses of its original splendor still transport visitors back to its glory days in the 15th century.

2. Merv

The Great Kyz Kala, known as the “Maiden’s Castle,” is one of many crumbling fortresses in Merv. Gai Jorayev. CC BY-SA 4.0

Located in the far-off reaches of Turkmenistan, Merv’s broad religious and commercial influence once made it the third-largest city in the world. The Mongols ransacked Merv in 1221, and the city never recovered. Its extensive ruins remain, though, and amaze all who reach them. Fortresses, medieval walls, mausoleums and mosques have been uncovered, some dating back to 2500 B.C. Many of Merv’s ruins have not yet been preserved, so a visit here is a unique opportunity to see ancient history as it originally stood. One word of caution: gaining a tourist visa for Turkmenistan is notoriously difficult, so plan far ahead if arranging a trip.

3. Bukhara

The Kalyan Minaret stands above Bukhara’s Po-i-Kalyan complex in the center of town. Travelmag.com. CC BY 2.0

Holding much of Samarkand’s grandeur with far fewer crowds, Bukhara is one of Uzbekistan’s most compelling cities. Its prosperity as a Silk Road trading site led to the establishment of Bukhara as one of the intellectual and artistic hubs of Islamic civilization. The city’s prominent stature led to incredible sites such as the Po-i-Kalyan complex, Bukhara’s stunning town center. Po-i-Kalyan is home to an intricately designed mosque with 288 domes and 208 pillars, a still-in-use madrassa, and a minaret (Islamic tower) so impressive that Genghis Khan left it standing during his invasion of the city. Other must-visit spots include the Ark of Bukhara, an ancient fortress which offers stunning views of the city, and a bazaar where trading occurs much as it has for centuries.

4. Tash Rabat

Though it looks small from the outside, Tash Rabat is filled with a maze of rooms once used by Silk Road traders. Allan Grey. CC BY-SA 2.0

Situated almost 10,500 feet above sea level in Kyrgyzstan’s Tian Shan Mountains, Tash Rabat offered respite to weary Silk Road travelers along a challenging part of their journey. This still out-of-the way spot operated as a caravanserai, or roadside inn, throughout the 15th century. Though many caravanserais can be found along the Silk Road’s path, Tash Rabat stands out due to its stunning mountainous location and its labyrinthine layout. Archaeologists believe that Tash Rabat was originally a 10th-century Christian monastery, explaining its dark and imposing maze of rooms. Visitors often find the site to be mysterious and endlessly fascinating, and often combine it with horseback riding tours and yurt stays in the dramatic Kyrgyz countryside.

5. Khiva

Kalta Minor Minaret’s blue tiles strongly contrast with the sandstone buildings around it. Dan Lundberg. CC BY-SA 2.0

The final of Uzbekistan’s trio of Silk Road cities is Khiva, home to a narrow maze of historic treasures stretching back to the fifth century. One such spot is the Tash-Khauli Palace, an exquisitely designed structure with over 150 mesmerizing rooms and courtyards. Continued exploration leads travelers to Juma Mosque, held up by 200 uniquely designed wooden pillars. Khiva claims two minarets, the climbable Islam Khodja Minaret and the Kalta Minor Minaret, which is bathed in beautiful blue tiling. The best view in town, though, comes at the Kuhna Ark Watchtower, where the city’s sandstone walls brilliantly reflect light rays at sunset.

Stephen Kenney

Stephen is a Journalism and Political Science double major at the University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill. He enjoys sharing his passion for geography with others by writing compelling stories from across the globe. In his free time, Stephen enjoys reading, long-distance running and rooting for the Tar Heels.