The Ghostly Shores of the Namib Desert’s Skeleton Coast

Bones and wreckage meet biodiversity on the Skeleton Coast of the world's oldest desert. 

A ship wreckage by the red, sandy dunes along the Skeleton Coast. op23 | Unsplash

A map highlighting the Namib Desert in red along the coast of Africa.

Home to earthy-red dunes which roll right into the Atlantic ocean, the Namib Desert is thought to be between 50-80 millions years old, making it the oldest desert in the world. It’s also one of the world's most inhospitable places—an unpredictable, arid and remote region that on the surface has no appeal whatsoever. With temperatures fluctuating from blistering hot to dangerously cold and sand for as far as the eye can see, it extends from the country of Angola, through Namibia and down to South Africa. That’s over 31 thousand square miles of desert. 

But don't be fooled, there’s more to these sandy plains than meets the eye. The Namib is home to the Skeleton Coast. And despite this desert’s penchant for death, The Skeleton Coast is teeming with rare wildlife. 

What is the Skeleton Coast

The Skeleton Coast is on the northern shores of this ancient and unexpected desert and earned its macabre name from the whale and seal bones that once littered the shore from the whaling industry. The Ovahimba who have since settled in the far north-eastern parts of Namibia once used the whale bones for building their shelters. In modern times, the Skeleton Coast hides its infamous graveyard buried beneath the sand, and with the exception of a rare adventure seeker looking for a wave to surf, the odds of seeking a human along this part of the coast are slim.

A shipwreck in the fog on the Skeleton Coast. Lee | CC BY 2.0

The Unique Climate of the Namib Desert

The bones scattered across Namibia’s Skeleton Coast aren’t from ocean mammals alone. Over the centuries, ships have ended up stranded on its shores for various reasons, but the main culprit is caused by the unique geography of the region. Hot, dry air from the interior of the continent and desert blows west combining with the cold wet air from Antarctica via a northward flowing ocean current called the Benguela Current. The hot dry winds act as a cap or roof not only prevents the cold wet air from escaping, but also from forming rain clouds. Instead, there is an eerie fog, and a lot of it. 

In fact, for 180 days of the year there is fog on the Skeleton Coast so dense, it’s caused thousands upon thousands of ships to run aground throughout history; the oldest of which is from the 1500’s. The ocean's intense surf would have prevented anyone from getting back into the water, and with a wrecked ship, this meant that sailors stranded on this isolated coast were left with only one choice: to make their way through the Namib Desert. With a dryness rivaling South America’s Atacama Desert (the driest place on Earth), and sand dunes reaching nearly 1000 ft high, this option was nearly as dangerous as swimming out to sea and surely has added human bones to its burial collection. 

A brown hyena stands over a carcass in the Namib Desert. Joe Knapman | CC BY 2.0

Wildlife on the Skeleton Coast

Incredibly diverse, the Skeleton Coast has more near-endemic species than any other desert in the world. Elephants, black rhinos, desert lions, jackals, giraffes, seals, oryx, kudus and zebras and just some of the desert adapted species inhabiting this wilderness. One such animal is the brown hyaena. They’re usually on the move after darkness has fallen, which adds to their elusiveness. The name strandwolf was coined on Namibia’s Skeleton Coast where they scavenge for dead seals along the shoreline. If you are fortunate enough to spot one, make sure you take a really good look, because sightings of these inscrutable carnivores is never guaranteed. A truly endemic avian, the Dune Lark, inhabits thinly vegetated dunes along the Skeleton Coast and larger Namibian dune system associated with Bushman grasses and Nara melons.

A blooming welwitschias. Ragnhild&Neil Crawford |CC BY 2.0    

A spiny looking nara bush in the Namib Desert. Palmora| CC BY 2.0

Nara Melons are just one of the many plants incredibly adapted to the rainless area and depend solely on the warning fog from the Atlantic Ocean. The nara bush is of great importance not only to the people of the region, but it is ecologically key to maintaining the unique desert habitat. More plants include welwitschias—which is a dwarf tree with only two leaves that can live for several thousand years—several lithops succulent plants known as living stones, lichen, pencil bush and the vividly colored succulents of rainbow colored agate mountains dotting the shore. 

The Lion’s Roar, a desert phenomenon

The phenomena of the Skeleton Coast doesn’t stop at bones, fog and compelling flora and fauna. Travelers, nomads and lost sailors once believed in the presence of desert spirits—singing songs through the mist. When the dunes form a bowl with the right acoustic properties, even a small flow of disturbed sand causes a terrific noise that resembles rolling thunder or even a low-flying airplane. The phenomenon is known locally on the Skeleton Coast as ‘the lion’s roar’.

Ugab River Gate, Agnieszka Rysio | CC BY 2.0

The Skeleton Coast National Park

Luckily, this wildly unique, albeit creepy shoreline, along with its diverse inhabitants is protected. In 1971, Namibia established a well-maintained national park to protect the curious treasures, bones and wildlife which makes the Skeleton Coast so incredible. The park is divided into a northern and southern section; the southern section is open to travelers with four wheel drive vehicles who are welcomed to go as far north as the Ugab River Gate. There, they will be greeted by a sign with a skull and crossbones warning you to go no further. The northern section is off limits, its loose, enveloping sands will literally swallow you up and can therefore only be accessed by airplane with a certified guide. It also happens to be the most attractive region of the park with lunar-esque vistas as far as the eye can see. The park attracts all types of travelers, both local and international fishers, photographers, ecologists and folks just looking for a unique adventure to one of the world's most understated treasures.



Raeann Mason

Raeann is the Content and Community Manager at CATALYST, an avid traveler, digital storyteller and guide writer. She studied Mass Communication & Media at the Walter Cronkite School of Journalism where she found her passion for a/effective journalism and cultural exchange. An advocate of international solidarity and people's liberation, Raeann works to reshape the culture of travel and hospitality to be ethically sound and sustainable.

5 Islands to Visit in Indonesia Not Named Bali

While the famed island has its charms, visitors have largely overlooked the rest of this sprawling archipelago’s natural and cultural riches.

So much of Indonesia, such as Bunaken Island near Sulawesi, is relatively undiscovered – for now. Niek van Son. CC BY 2.0

Indonesia is made up of over 17,000 islands – yet the world’s attention focuses squarely on Bali. Yet, from the enchanting temples of Java to the crystal-clear waters of Raja Ampat, Indonesia’s less-known islands hold endless opportunities for exploration and enlightenment.

An orangutan sighting is all but assured in the jungles surrounding Sumatra’s Bukit Lawang. Hugo van den Bos. CC BY 2.0

Sumatra

Indonesia’s westernmost island offers up excitement and relaxation in equal quantities. The languid shores of Toba, the world’s largest volcanic lake, beckon visitors to its isolated islands, gushing waterfalls and unique Batak subculture. Elsewhere on Sumatra, adventure reigns supreme: track down orangutans in Bukit Lawang, surf mammoth waves on the surrounding Mentawai and Nias Islands or hike up the still-active Mount Sibayak volcano. Travelers can finish by polishing off some of Sumatra’s famously delicious cuisine in Medan and Padang, Indonesia’s most acclaimed culinary capitals.

As phenomenal as Raja Ampat’s diving is, the above-water scenery stuns just as much. Max Mossler. CC BY 2.0

Raja Ampat

Located just off the coast of New Guinea in Indonesia’s far east, this under-the-radar archipelago provides visitors with some of the most pristine reefs in the world. Skilled divers dream of traveling to these idyllic islands for all-but-assured sightings of sharks and manta rays and the discovery of over 1,000 different species of fish and coral. The views on land rival the bounty below, with a hike up Piaynemo Island revealing a dreamscape of verdant forests and crystal-clear waters obscured only by the flight of tropical birds.

The magic of Java best comes alive at Borobudur as the sun rises over the temple. Justine Hong. CC BY 2.0

Java

The world’s most populous island, Java remains the heartbeat of Indonesia. Frenetic and colorful Jakarta is a mixing bowl of Indonesia’s countless cultures as it attracts locals from every island. When the capital’s crush of humanity gets a bit too much, travelers can escape to atmospheric Yogyakarta, renowned as Indonesia’s cultural and artistic capital. Just outside of town are the architectural masterpieces of Borobudur, the world’s largest Buddhist temple, and Prambanan, Indonesia’s largest Hindu temple. Nature lovers appreciate a morning hike up Mount Bromo, while divers enjoy getaways to the tropical paradise of Karimunjawa.

Komodo dragons can be found nowhere else in the wild other than Flores and its neighboring islands. Adhi Rachdian. CC BY 2.0

Flores

Known by intrepid travelers for its Komodo dragons, Flores gives visitors a glimpse of an untouched Indonesian island tailor-made for adventure. Tracking down the region’s best-known inhabitant is a must, but travelers would be remiss to skip Flores’ less popular attractions. Padar Island’s coves alternate between white, black and pink sand, with their gorgeous beaches offering the perfect respite after a long day of trekking. Mount Kelimutu also revels in multihued splendor, with the volcano’s three lakes ranging in color from an intense red to cool shades of green and blue. Intense hikers will adore the overnight trek to Wae Rebo, an excursion through dense jungles to a traditional village set up by the Manggarai tribe.

Funeral ceremonies in Tana Toraja are a cause for celebration, as death is the most revered state of one’s life. Arian Zwegers. CC BY 2.0

Sulawesi

Sulawesi holds an incredibly broad array of activities within its oddly shaped borders. The clear highlight is Tana Toraja, a highland region studded with rice paddies and filled with houses bearing a close resemblance to boats. The area is home to the world's most elaborate and celebratory funeral rituals, which mesmerize all who attend. Visitors take a bumpy ride into the jungles of Lore Lindu National Park to discover monkeys, snakes, and tropical flora and fauna that remain untouched by the outside world. A journey to Rammang Rammang passes by the sweeping limestone cliffs of the world’s third largest “stone garden,” and the Togean, Wakatobi and Bunaken Islands further entice with world-class diving opportunities.

Stephen Kenney

is a Journalism and Political Science double major at the University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill. He enjoys sharing his passion for geography with others by writing compelling stories from across the globe. In his free time, Stephen enjoys reading, long-distance running and rooting for the Tar Heels.

Unexpected Paradise: 6 Macaronesian Islands That You May Not Have Heard Of

Off the coast of Europe and Africa, the Macronesian islands offer unspoiled landscapes, quaint towns, and stunning coastlines.

The island of La Gomera is located in the Canary Islands, one of the island chains that make up Macaronesia. Jörg Bergmann. CC BY-NC-ND 2.0.

Macaronesia is a group of archipelagos in the North Atlantic Ocean. off the coast of Europe and Africa. It consists of the islands of the Azores and Madeira, (part of Portugal) the Canary Islands (part of Spain) and Cabo Verde  (an independent group of islands formerly controlled by Portugal). Some of these islands are only a short flight away from many major cities in Western Europe and becoming more popular, leading to more development on some of them, but unspoiled wilderness remains prevalent. 

1. São Miguel, Azores

The Lagoa das Sete Cidades features colorful lakes in the remnants of volcano calderas on São Miguel. energeticspell. CC BY-NC 2.0.

The largest island in the Azores, São Miguel features numerous beautiful natural sights for hikers and/or tourists. Due to minerals in the water, the lakes on the island come in various tints of green and blue. At a more temperate climate than many of the other Macaronesian islands, São Miguel receives more rain, resulting in many waterfalls on the island. Some companies lead rappelling excursions at the waterfalls. The seas around São Miguel are also prime for whale watching.

2. Flores, Azores

Lush, green cliffs characterize the island of Flores in the Azores archipelago. Paulo Corceiro. CC BY-ND 2.0.

One of the more remote islands in the Azores archipelago, Flores literally translates to “flowers” in English. Its stunning lush mountains are well-suited for hiking and canyoneering, with trails leading to some unique geological formations. Some places on the island to visit include the village of Fajã Grande, which is tucked in between cliffs and the Atlantic Ocean, and the 7 lagoons, the remnants of ancient volcanoes. 

3. Madeira

The cliffs of Madeira. Kacper Gunia. CC BY-NC 2.0.

After a thrilling landing at one of the most challenging airports for pilots in the world, visitors step into a green oasis with dramatic mountains and steep drop-offs. In the past, Madeira was a maritime center with Christopher Columbus and James Cook making stops there on their voyages. Later, rich landowners built ornate summer estates on the island, such as the Monte Palace Madeira, which is a present-day vast botanical garden. Hiking trails criss-cross the island, with many built on the remnants of levandas, irrigation canals used to feed water to drier areas of the island. A strenuous hike to Pico Ruivo, the highest point on the island, rewards intrepid hikers with vast views.

4. La Palma, Canary Islands

The volcanic landscape of the island of La Palma. weberpal. CC BY-NC-SA 2.0. 

The island of La Palma in the Canary Islands is fully operational again after the Cumbre Vieja volcano stopped erupting in December 2021. While it is still advisable to exercise caution around the eruption area, the rest of the island is free to be explored. Past volcanic eruptions have created unique rock formations underwater, making diving a popular activity off the coast of the island. Watersports such as kayaking and canoeing are also popular, especially along the sheltered coast of Fuencaliente. There is also an extensive network of hiking paths on the island, leading to a variety of unique landscapes.

5. Fuerteventura

Popular beaches and desert landscapes combine on the island of Fuerteventura. xavipat. CC BY-NC-ND 2.0.

The more southern islands of Macaronesia have a more arid climate, leading to more desert-like landscapes. Less than 100 kilometers from the coast of Africa, Fuerteventura consists of many popular beaches but also has quaint towns and rolling hills. As the first of the Canary Islands to be settled by Europeans, its first capital city of Betancuria was founded in 1404 and remains to this day and is a great place to learn about the island’s pre-Hispanic history. The island is also famous for its cuisine featuring majorero cheese and papas arugás with mojo (wrinkly potatoes with a local sauce).

6. Sal, Cabo Verde

The barren landscape of Sal is much more than what it seems. Phil Thirkell. CC BY-NC 2.0.

Another desert-like island, Sal is located in the northeast of the Cabo Verde archipelago and used to be the least populous island of the country until recent developments that have caused rapid growth. Like Fuerteventura, Sal has many beaches which are known as prime kiteboarding areas. Away from the beaches and resort areas lies what seems like a barren landscape, but tours on jeep and horseback can bring visitors to the remote interior to secluded areas. The island also has a legacy of salt mining, and it is possible to visit the Pedra de Lume area, which preserves the remnants of salt extraction operations.



Bryan Fok

Bryan is currently a History and Global Affairs major at the University of Notre Dame. He aims to apply the notion of Integral Human Development as a framework for analyzing global issues. He enjoys hiking and visiting national parks.

7 Sites of Mexico City’s Architectural Diversity, from Baroque to Brutalist

Mexico City is a flourishing metropolis with a plethora of historic and modernist architectural sites. Here are a few attractions scattered around the city.

A street at the center of Mexico City. Flickr user Franx’. CC BY-NC 2.0.

A Gothic cathedral sits next to a glassy business building. Brick houses with arabesque detailing overlook the noisy streets full of men in suits and street food vendors. Mexico City is growing every year; its multiplicity of neighborhoods hosts a variety of architectural styles and people from all over the globe. Often regarded as an oasis of modernity in the entirety of Latin America, this urban center has been labeled the “next Paris'' or as a new version of New York. Given its history of colonialism and its willful modernization under Porfirio Diaz, Mexico City’s compilation of architecture is oftentimes representative of its past and present. Here’s a cursory glance at a few of Mexico City’s sites of modernization, and the contradictions at play in these structures. 

The Central Library of the National Autonomous University on a gloomy day. Mark Hogan. CC BY-SA 2.0.

1. Central Library of the National Autonomous University

Juan O’Gorman’s Central Library of the National Autonomous University (UNAM) is a spectacle to behold. This behemoth holds the qualities of international modernist architecture: its 14-story frame sits above a glassy ground floor which looks over a neatly gridded yard. Yet, O’Gorman’s building doesn’t possess the stoicism of standard midcentury modern architecture; its distinctively Mexican-themed mural makes the building a historic storybook. Like a visual epic, the “Historical Representation of Culture” mural includes the expansive timeline of pre-conquest Mexico, the Spanish conquest, Mexican modernization and Mexico’s future. One can spot mosaics of the beginnings of Tenochtitlan, and the clash between pre-Hispanic Mexico and vehicles of Spanish colonialism. O’Gorman believed his mosaics of these cultural signifiers would make the library “different from the rest of the buildings within University City” by giving it a distinctly “Mexican character.” 

A corner of the exterior of Casa Luis Barragan. Forgemind Archimedia. CC BY 2.0.

2. Casa Luis Barragan

Casa Luis Barragan, which was built in 1948, looks as if it were suspended in time and space: colorful red walls jut into the placid blue sky, although they are immobile in detail and structure. Luis Barragan is a world-renowned architect whose eccentric architectural style can be recognized in his buildings’ solid colors, geometric shapes and sparsity of details. This vibrant house is a foil of O’Gorman’s direct homage to Mexico as a nation; it highlights formalist qualities over political values, which Barragan considered secondary to his architecture. Barragan is an expert at manipulating elements of nature. The play of shadows within the structure itself and the use of greenery turns an otherwise intimidating monument into a livable habitat. Although countless travel journals have attached Mexican modernist themes to Barragan’s home, it resists the supposed markers of “Mexican” aesthetics and remains a private site of great accomplishment.

Thousands visit the Basilica de Guadalupe daily. Alex Marduk. CC BY 2.0.

3. Basilica de Guadalupe 

Pedro Ramirez Vazquez’s seminal work, the Basilica de Guadalupe, is a sacred destination for thousands of Catholics around the world. The area it sits on, Tepeyac, was originally a place where Aztecs worshipped Tonantzin, or “the divine mother.” As a result of the suppression of Aztec religions during Spanish occupation, the Basilica de Guadalupe was built for Our Lady of Guadalupe who was said to have appeared before St. Juan Diego. The original colonial basilica was severely damaged in 1921 in a bomb attack, but Vazquez’s new Basilica de Guadalupe renovated the sacred site. This site was just one of Vazquez’s projects dedicated to industrializing Mexico, as shown in its modernist disk shape and the sheer mass of its structure.

Monumento a la Revolucion sitting at the city center. Ismael Villafranco. CC BY 2.0.

4. Monumento a la Revolucion

Located in the Cuauhtemoc borough of Mexico City, Monumento a la Revolucion is a stately memorial which celebrates the Mexican Revolution of 1910. Mirroring many of the United States’ federal buildings in Washington, the monument’s perfectly symmetrical Roman dome is fortified by brick pillars which meet at the four corners of the structure. Carlos Obregon Santacilia continued the project after it had been abandoned by both the state and the French architect they commissioned for the building, Emile Benard. Oliverio Martinez’s smooth sculptural representations of independence, reform, agrarian laws and labor laws protect the mausoleum on its four corners. In this marriage of neoclassical elements and Mexican nationalism, the Mexican government actively constructs its origin story via the conventions of Roman and French architecture.

Close-up shot of Martinez’s sculpture on Monumento a la Revolucion. Flickr user tchelseat. CC BY-NC 2.0.

A view of the facade of La Santisima Church. Wikimedia user Protoplasmakid. CC BY-SA 3.0.

5. La Santisima Church

La Santisima Church is covered in the Spanish churrigueresque style, which is the Baroque style that was dominant in Spain during the 18th century. Its facades are adorned with ornate carvings of the apostles, angels, Jesus and Mary placed in between its many columns. Although it appears relatively normal in a city full of extravagant churches, the distinctive religious iconography on its exterior deems La Santisima Church worthy of close attention.

Museo Soumaya shines brightly on sunny days. Flickr user Dan. CC BY 2.0.

6. Museo Soumaya

No piece of architecture screams “contemporary” like the Museo Soumaya. Museo Soumaya, which houses thousands of sculptures and paintings from pre-Hispanic Mesoamerica up to European impressionist works, is a piece of art itself. The Plaza Carso building in particular is an intriguing malformed shape dressed in millions of aluminum hexagons. Taking inspiration from Frank Lloyd Wright’s Guggenheim in New York, Fernando Romero designed the Plaza Carso as an enigma: the concept behind the work is intentionally vague, and the usefulness of its parabolic shape questionable. 

Front view of Museo Anahuacalli. Javier Castañón. CC BY-NC-ND 2.0.

7. Museo Anahuacalli

Although Diego Rivera is widely known for his painted murals, his exploration of three-dimensional design is just as noteworthy. Rivera’s Museo Anahuacalli was made of his own accord; Rivera wanted a space for his collection of over 50,000 relics of pre-Hispanic Mesoamerica. The style of the building is an amalgam of various Mesoamerican styles, taking inspiration from Teotihuacan and the temples of the Mayans and Aztecs. The exterior of the museum has the symmetry of neoclassical architecture, while its interior is heavily influenced by the Aztec pyramid. 

Many scholars speculate that the development of uniquely “Mexican” architecture, seen through Mexico City’s plethora of sites, stems from a desire for national representation. Mexico City’s postcolonial realities are found in its very infrastructure: one cannot ignore the presence of Catholicism, the reminders of a pre-Hispanic Mesoamerica, and the complications of deliberate industrialization. Juan O’Gorman’s library attempts to artfully marry the past, present and future. Casa Barragan is the work of a maverick who resists the narrative of a national architecture. The grandiose Basilica de Guadalupe is holy ground for millions of Catholics, yet it strays from the Gothic style of typical European cathedrals. 

The sheer amount of voices and styles in this sprawling metropolis is telling of its complicated relationship with modernization. There is no shortage of historic, formal, religious and artistic values in each of Mexico City’s buildings. 



Heather Lim

Heather recently earned her B.A. in Literatures in English from University of California, San Diego. She was editor of the Arts and Culture section of The Triton, a student-run newspaper. She plans on working in art criticism, which combines her love of visual art with her passion for journalism.  

South Africa’s Town of Penguins

The small port town Simon’s Town is full of amazing marine life, most notably the African Penguin colony that is  just outside the town center.

Jackass Penguins Simon’s Town SA. Donnie Ray. CC BY-NC-ND 2.0

Located on the southwestern coast of South Africa, Simon’s Town is a small village surrounded by both the ocean  and the mountains. Being so close to Cape Town, Simon’s Town is a beautiful, small port city. 

Simon’s Town is on a part of the Cape Peninsula known as False Bay. This area is a Hope Spot, an important and protected area for the ocean’s health. It is a valuable area for wildlife, with various species of birds and marine life coming to live off the area. Large marine creatures such as dolphins, whales, seals and sharks can be found near the town, some close enough to see while kayaking and others closer to Seal Island, 8 nautical miles away from the harbor.

However, much smaller than these other sea creatures is Simon’s Town’s famous attarction –the penguin colony. Penguins are found on every continent in the Southern Hemisphere, all the way from the Galápagos Islands at the equator to Antarctica. Here in this small town in South Africa, one colony of African penguins known as the Boulders Colony regularly comes ashore. Because of the colony, the town is also named Penguin Town. Breeding season for these birds is between February to August, so it is more common to see penguins during those months, but the birds will also come to land while they are molting. People can watch them from afar, and even swim alongside them, as long as they don’t get too close or chase them because the penguins will bite.

Simon’s Town (9). Joe Pyrek. CC BY-SA 2.0

African penguins–also known as black-footed penguins, Cape penguins, and jackass penguins (the last one because of their unique braying-like sounds)–are an endangered species of penguins, with only around 140,000 penguins in the world. They are small birds, only growing between 24-27 inches and weighing around 8-9 pounds. In addition to the black backs and white fronts, they have a black, parabolic band across their chests, though chicks and juvenile members are brown and gray. The population of this species started declining in the 1980s due to commercial fishing and oil pollution. Though penguins do eat more than just fish, it is the largest part of their diet and commercial fishing has been taking all the species that the penguins eat. Luckily, commercial fishing has been banned in False Bay, so African penguins’ food supply belongs to them and the other sea creatures again. The oil pollution is another serious issue for the birds because the oil will destroy their waterproof feathers, making it hard for them to swim.

There are 27 breeding sites for African penguins, and each of them is a protected habitat, including Simon’s Town, though the town did have to erect fences and boardwalks to prevent the penguins from wandering too far inland and into people’s gardens and backyards. The entire area is a sanctuary for penguins, and keeping them from invading residents’ properties can help people respect the animals, as well as helping the number of penguins to increase.



Katherine Lim

Katherine Lim is an undergraduate student at Vassar College studying English literature and Italian. She loves both reading and writing, and she hopes to pursue both in the future. With a passion for travel and nature, she wants to experience more of the world and everything it has to offer.

A Glimpse into Oaxaca City’s Guelaguetza Festival 

The annual Guelaguetza festival is one of the largest Indigenous celebrations in Mexico, preserving Oaxaca culture and tradition. 

Women performing at the Guelaguetza Festival. Jen Wilton. CC BY 2.0

Oaxaca City’s Guelaguetza festival is a celebration of community and strength that occurs annually on the two Mondays after July 16. Also referred to as “Los Lunes del Cerro,” the festival has been a longstanding tradition in Oaxaca culture that predates Spanish colonization of the land in the 16th century. Although the cultural significance of the festival has shifted over the years, its core value of unity remains deeply rooted in the celebrations. 

Prior to Spanish invasion, the festival had close ties to the religious celebration of the goddess of maize Centéotl in order to ensure a successful harvest season. While Centéotl still has a place in modern Guelaguetza celebrations, after Spanish colonization, festivities began to integrate Christian elements such as the feast day Our Lady of Mount Carmel which occurs on July 16. 

The term “Guelaguetza” means “reciprocal exchanges of gifts and services” in the Zapotec language, which is the overarching structure of the festival. Historically, during Oaxacan celebrations, those attending would each bring some sort of item that was needed for the celebration such as food or supplies. These “guelaguetza” allowed the celebration to exist and exemplified the value of collaboration.

During the Guelaguetza festival in particular, inhabitants of Oaxaca’s eight regions unite, bringing their own unique traditions and knowledge to share with the larger community.  

A couple dancing at the Guelaguetza Festival. Larry Lamsa. CC BY 2.0

Particularly, an exchange of culture occurs through song, dance and clothing. Individuals from each of the eight regions spend months prior to the festival perfecting song and dance routines to perform for the festival's attendees. After performing the number in their region's traditional clothing, they toss significant cultural items into the crowd. This exchange allows Oaxaca’s sub-cultures to not only exist but to thrive. 

In addition to culture, there are plenty of other exchanges that occur during the festival, such as sharing traditional food that is prepared by inhabitants of each region and selling artisanal crafts in the city center.  

The Guelaguetza festival has been traditionally celebrated on Cerro del Fortín, or Fortin Hill, in Oaxaca. In the 1970s an amphitheater was built specifically for the celebration. Seating 11,000 people, the amphitheater was built directly into a hill so that those looking down at the stage are able to clearly view the city below. 

Oaxaca is home to sixteen different Indigenous groups in addition to its eight regions, so there is a vast array of cultures within the larger Oaxaca culture. Annual Guelaguetza celebrations have preserved these cultures over the years despite colonization and increasing tourism in the region, ensuring that Oaxacan traditions and stories will be preserved for coming generations. 



Zara Irshad  

10 Nigerian Artists Redefining Africa’s Music Scene

From influencing the #EndSARS protests to confronting the commodification of African culture, these artists have unique approaches to their art.

DaVido performing. Wikimedia user Rasheedrasheed. CC BY-SA 4.0.

Nigerian musicians have been spreading their influence all over the world for the past few decades. Following in the footsteps of Fela Kuti, contemporary artists experiment with a plethora of genres, fine-tuning their style as they progress. Renowned artists such as Burna Boy, DaVido and Cruel Santino are the driving forces of the Afrobeats movement, which combines African subgenres, American hip-hop, and R&B. Here are 10 influential Nigerian musicians to listen to.

1. Tony Allen

Tony Allen. Pierre Priot. CC BY-NC-ND 2.0.

Tony Allen is the father of the Afrobeat genre. Allen passed away in April 2020 after releasing his final album, “Rejoice,” in collaboration with the late South African jazz artist, Hugh Masekela. Allen’s polyrhythmic drumming complements Masekela’s trumpet in this riveting jazz album. From his earlier days of performing with Fela Kuti to his more recent collaborations with Skepta and Oumou Sangare, Allen has pioneered the combination of American jazz with African beats. After a career which explored a multitude of scenes in the music world, Allen falls back into his Afrobeat roots in his very last album.


2. Naira Marley

Rapper Naira Marley is a contentious figure in Nigeria. Marley is known as a founder of the genre Afro-bashment, a combination of Caribbean influences, American trap rap, West African beats and British rap. Naira Marley is known for his controversial beliefs and ideas; in “Am I a Yahoo Boy,” he offers an unabashed critique of the Nigerian government, higher education and social conservatism. His single “Koleyewon,” which was released in December 2020, is a fast-paced trap song in Yoruba. 

3. DaVido

DaVido performing. Wikimedia user Rasheedrasheed. CC BY-SA 4.0.

American-born musician DaVido is a world-renowned Afrobeats artist who synthesizes elements of R&B, rap and Afropop to build up his discography. His heavily auto-tuned vocals and his simple audio production make up his signature sound. DaVido’s most recent album, “A Better Time,” featured Nicki Minaj, Chris Brown and Lil Baby. Despite its famous featured artists, the album’s first track, “FEM,” received the most attention globally. “FEM,” which means “shut up” in Nigerian slang, was labeled the anthem of the #EndSARS protests in Nigeria, which called for the dissolution of the Special Anti-Robbery Squad. Although the artist himself didn’t intend to express a politically charged message, he was nonetheless impassioned by his country’s fight against police brutality.  

4. Cruel Santino

Up-and-coming musician Cruel Santino came to the world stage in 2019 with his debut album “Mandy & The Jungle.” Although he is one of the younger artists of the Nigerian music renaissance, Cruel Santino offers an impressive range of styles in his first album. The mellow, laid-back beat of “Sparky” contrasts with the country twang of “Diamonds / Where You Been.” His new single “End of The Wicked” showcases his maturation as a musician and an artist: the solemn piano is redeemed by a syncopated jungle beat, which accompanies his verbose rap. 

5. Odunsi (The Engine)

Odunsi (The Engine) is a master of his craft. His discography is all-encompassing: church choirs and spoken word start off his 2018 album “Rare”; an orchestra plays over his verse in his greatest hit “Tipsy”; a vaporwave synth paints “Luv In a Mosh” blue. Odunsi (The Engine)’s album covers visually harmonize with his music. The ethereal blue moon in “Everything You Heard Is True,” which was released in May 2020, mirrors Odunsi’s experimentation with atonal melodies and distortions. On top of this hypnotic album, the musician released two singles in 2020: “Decided” and “Fuji 5000.” Both are dramatically different from each other; the only constant is Odunsi’s effortless flow.

 6. Simi

Simi at NdaniTV. NdaniTV. CC BY 3.0.

Simi’s distinctly sweet voice is the honey that binds her music together. Less is more in her 2017 album “Simisola,” where her vocals and the acoustic guitar are the only elements that matter. The Nigerian singer started off as a gospel singer in 2008, but transformed her career in 2014 after the success of her singles “Tiff” and “E No Go Funny.” Simi released “Restless II” in 2020, which is a change of pace from her slow crooning. In an interview with OkayAfrica, the singer admits that, “This project is a risk as well, it’s even more of a risk because it’s R&B and Nigeria is not necessarily the biggest R&B market.” As Simi continues to dabble in hip-hop, she  comes out with more powerful hits like “No Longer Beneficial” and “There for You.” 

7. Niniola

Niniola. Wikimedia user Naijareview. CC BY-SA 4.0.

Often regarded as the “Queen of Afro-House,” Niniola is a global star who fights to find her footing as an empowered Yoruba woman. Niniola rose to fame from her 2017 hit “Maradona,” a seemingly light pop tune which dealt with the traumas of her upbringing. As a girl growing up in a polygamous household, Niniola experienced the double standards of a patriarchal family. Reckoning with her womanhood, Niniola recounts the experiences of a woman who is cheated on by her husband, woes which are usually kept secret. With an album and a couple of huge hits under her belt, Niniola comes back strong with her new album “Colours and Sounds,” which includes a refreshing take on reggae, pop and dancehall. 

https://youtu.be/lRpBLAwIbeA 



8. Burna Boy

Burna Boy’s album “Twice as Tall” covers a variety of topics, from how the artist grapples with the reality of colonialism to the frenzy of a night out. Burna Boy is a household name in the music industry, and this album attests to the singer’s mastery over songwriting and producing. In his song “Monsters You Made,” Burna Boy addresses Western imperialism and how its consequences are still felt today. His song “Alarm Clock” begins with voice recordings, opera and a saxophone, and quickly switches to an upbeat rap song.

9. Deto Black

Model and rapper Deto Black refuses to be labeled as an Afrobeats musician. The feminism and sex positivity of her music is obvious and brought to the forefront of her message as an “alté,” or alternative, artist. As a Lagos-based rapper who lived in the U.K. and the U.S. growing up, Deto Black navigates the different worlds by calling for gender equality in Nigeria.  






10. Zlatan Ibile

Zlatan is a new Nigerian singer and dancer who found fame through his viral song “Zanku” (Legwork), which was accompanied by a famous dance. Since 2019, the singer has released three albums, started a record label, and released the successful single “Lagos Anthem.” “Lagos Anthem” is an energetic dance song with darker lyrics criticizing the government for its flawed policies. 


These Nigerian musicians are beginning to impact American and British pop music. Although each of these individuals comes from a different discipline and background, they all have a commitment to experimenting in their craft. Some thrive in and renovate the Afrobeats movement, while others resist the umbrella term. The common ground between alté musician Deto Black’s tackling of gender inequality and DaVido’s propelling of the #EndSARS revolution is their commitment to the well-being of Nigeria. 



Heather Lim

Heather recently earned her B.A. in Literatures in English from University of California, San Diego. She was editor of the Arts and Culture section of The Triton, a student-run newspaper. She plans on working in art criticism, which combines her love of visual art with her passion for journalism.

What Makes Bhutan So Happy?

Meet the country which prioritizes the contentment of its citizens before everything else through its “Gross National Happiness” program.

Bhutanese children. r y _ _ _ _ . CC BY-NC 2.0

Imagine a country hidden away from the rest of the world. Tucked in between China and India, the world’s most populous countries, little Bhutan rests at the base of the Himalayan mountains. The rural country long ago made the decision to close off its borders to most tourism in hopes of preserving the nation’s unique Buddhist culture and the identity of its 740,000 people. In 1974 the country gradually reopened, though the Bhutanese monarchy was reluctant for the nation to be connected with the rapidly urbanizing world. Bhutan could not be completely isolated for long due to globalization, and in 1999 internet and Wi-Fi were quickly introduced. Being alone for so long, Bhutan was innovative in ways that made sense for its culture and ecosystem.

Dochula Pass. Göran Höglund (Kartläsarn). CC BY 2.0

Bhutan is unique in its location and recent connections to the outside world, but it’s the traditions and customs within Bhutan that really make it a sight to behold. Even during the age of colonization and imperialization, Bhutan was never colonized. The country’s official religion remains Vajrayana Buddhism, a deity-dense, merit-based and karma-focused faith implemented into everyday life and routines. 

Bhutan Buddhist monk sand art. John K. CC BY-NC-ND 2.0

Dance of the death god. jmhullot. CC BY-SA 2.0

Ecology is everything. Bhutan is the only carbon negative nation in the modern world, absorbing three times more carbon than it produces. In light of climate change, that feat is revolutionary. Its government has established laws that require Bhutan to always have its area 60% covered in forest lands. Keeping in mind its minimal carbon footprint, Bhutan is still vigilant about tourists who enter the country, always prioritizing  the preservation of the nation’s cohesive identity. The tourist industry is nationally regulated, making it expensive and difficult to travel to. Documents and visas are issued by state-appointed companies and provide visitors with everything, including hotels, insurance and most importantly a guide who must accompany travelers at all times

Ecology is everything. 360around. CC BY 2.0

Ecology and tourism are not the only things the government has taken to regulating. Bhutan is once again unique in national policy, measuring its nation’s happiness. Outsiders like to say that Bhutan is the “happiest country in the world” and the statistics given by Bhutan back up this claim. In 2015, the annual extensive survey that gauges the nation’s happiness concluded that 91% of its population was happy.” The Ministry of Happiness measures the contentment of its population with “Gross National Happiness” (GNH). 

King of Bhutan. Bhutan-360. CC BY-NC-SA 2.0

Ex-Prime Minister Tshering Tobgay defined it as “a developing philosophy that acknowledges that economic growth is important, but that growth must not be mindless, but sustainable.”

Much like a country’s gross domestic product, GNH is considered important. Established in 2008, the Gross National Happiness Commission was appointed to take into consideration and care the inner peace of Bhutan’s people. Broken down into four pillars, nine domains and 72 indicators, GNH is a difficult concept to comprehend. The country’s leaders take into account how happy its people are in every aspect of life: governance, health, education, living standards, culture, ecology, time use and psychological well-being. 

Tobgay breaks Bhutan’s complicated process down to three components: the key to happiness is security, identity and purpose. These things are not mutually exclusive; they reinforce one another in every direction, both on an individual and a national level. He says that, “The government has a responsibility to ensure the whole nation has individual pursuit of the keys to happiness.” 

Temple overlooking the Himalayas. Jean Marie Hullot. CC BY-SA 2.0

The Bhutanese are often misunderstood. Outsiders often believe that just because they have GNH, it automatically makes them the happiest country in comparison to all others. They have free health care, free education, clean air, a thriving environment and a strong sense of community. But Tobgay argues that the Bhutanese still struggle because that is what it means to be human. Bhutan is a “real country with real people, and real desires.” Although every person may suffer from inner turmoil for whatever reason, the Bhutanese should be happy knowing that they have been given the keys to happiness.


Yuliana Rocio

Yuliana is currently a Literature/Writing major at the University of California San Diego. Yuliana likes to think of herself as a lover of words and a student of the world. She loves to read, swim, and paint in her free time. She spent her youth as part of a travel-loving family and has grown up seeking adventure. She hopes to develop her writing skills, creating work that reflects her voice and her fierce passion for activism.