Pathways and Pilgrimages: Exploring The Camino de Santiago

This pilgrimage to the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela in Spain has been a centerpiece of Christian spiritual life for thousands of years, and a destination for travelers around the world.

The Santiago de Compostela. Dafydd Parri. CC BY-NC-ND 2.0.

The Camino de Santiago, also known as the Way of St. James, marks a pilgrimage to the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela in Galicia, an autonomous community in northwestern Spain. Extending roughly 500 miles and taking about 30 to 35 days to complete at an average of around 15 miles per day, the Camino is known today both as a center for Christian spiritual life and a hiking haven for travelers looking to submerge themselves in nature with affordable accommodations and opportunities to adventure through local villages along the way.

Today, around 300,000 travelers make their way through the Camino every year, and those who complete the journey earn a Compostela Pilgrims Certificate. According to measurements from 2021, 45% of travelers reported walking the Camino for “religious and other reasons” while 30% reported walking the Camino strictly for religious reasons and 24% said they had no religious reasons for the pilgrimage. The growing popularity of the Camino as a secular travel experience as well as a religious one is aided by its accessibility. While daily expenditures on the Camino depend largely on the town one is stopping in, travelers can plan to budget for about $30 a day to cover the cost of food. Albergues, or hostels specifically made for pilgrims, are also a reliable and affordable option for accommodations along the Camino, with municipal albergues typically costing between $5 to $10 per person, while private albergues range between $12 and $15 per person. Via Lusitana helps connect travelers to albergues along the Camino Portugues.

While there is no exact starting point to the Camino, there are a handful of popular routes to choose from including Camino del Norte, Camino Primitivo, and Camino Ingles. The two most popular routes are that of the Camino Frances, which begins in Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port in southwest France, and the Camino Portuguese which starts from Portugal’s coastal city of Porto. While the Camino Frances covers 500 miles, the Camino Portuguese offers two distinct routes: the Camino Portuguese Central route which is 385 miles and the Camino Portuguese Coastal route which is 175 miles. 

The Camino became a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1993 and was recognized as the first European Cultural Route in 1987, however its history is one that dates back to the 9th century,  when remains of the apostle James were believed to be found in Galicia. Saint James preached in the Iberian peninsula before returning to Jerusalem, where he was beheaded by the king Herod Agrippa I in 44 AD. The legend surrounding St. James details how his body was transported from Jerusalem to Spain via a boat and was buried by his followers in Galicia in what is now the city of Santiago de Compostela.

The tomb was discovered in the 9th century by the bishop Theodomir. Upon its discovery the King of Asturia, Alfonso II, widely considered the first pilgrim to the Santiago de Compostela, traveled to the site and ordered that a church be built at the place of burial. Construction began in 1075 and the church was consecrated in 1211.

To accommodate an increase of pilgrimages through the Camino in the Middle Ages, bridges and other infrastructure were built along the route to aid travelers. Between the 11th and 13th century, the Camino’s rising popularity gave rise to a network of housing options and medical services along the route, including hospitals chartered by European kings.

The Camino’s many routes  were created by early travelers who shared information amongst themselves regarding the safest travel conditions, which nearby towns to stop in, and where to source food and water throughout the journey. Though lacking official infrastructure,  these paths became well defined by the pilgrims who traveled them for hundreds of years. It was not until the 1980s that Father Elías Valiña Sampedro, a priest of a neighboring Galician village, added yellow arrows along the path in an attempt to prevent travelers from getting lost.

Camino Frances

El Alto del Perdón. Rocco Rossi. CC BY 2.0.

As the most popular route, the Camino Frances sees around 55% of all travelers on the Camino de Santiago. Embarking on the French Way is one of the most social options to experience the Camino, and those who do so are sure to run into fellow pilgrims and have opportunities to build connections and a sense of camaraderie along the way. 

The entire Camino Frances starts at St Jean Pied de Port, a commune in southwest France, and extends roughly 500 miles and takes about 30 to 34 days to complete with an average of about 15 miles per day. However, the most popular starting point for travelers along the Camino is found at the last 60 miles of the pilgrimage, in the city of Sarria. This last stretch of the Camino takes approximately 7 days and passes through the towns of Portomarin, Melide and Arzua. 

Travelers embarking on the Camino Frances will move through the Pyrenees mountain range and into the La Rioja region of Northern Spain. Travelers interested in enjoying the region’s world famous vineyards can explore a variety of wine tours showcasing the region’s diverse earthly flavors.

Other notable traveling stops along the Camino Frances include the Spanish city of Pamplona, whose yearly San Fermín Festival every July features the country’s world-famous bull runs. When the festival is not happening, the Pamplona remains a popular resting spot for travelers along the Camino to explore Gothic and Renaissance art at the Museum of Navarra and the historic Plaza del Castillo where cafes and bars such as Cafe Iruna served as prominent landmarks in American novelist Ernest Hemmingway’s life and writing.   

Another highlight along the Camino Frances is the sculpture of El Alto del Perdon, which shows metal silhouettes representing pilgrims traveling through the Camino on foot and horseback. The art piece is located near the town of Puente de la Reina, a historical meeting point for early pilgrims traveling the Camino through a variety of routes along the Pyrenees. The town’s current architecture derives from attempts to accommodate pilgrims during the Middle Ages, including the bridge constructed under Queen Muniadona to assist pilgrims in their travels. The bridge is responsible for the town’s namesake, with Puente de la Reina translating to “the queen’s bridge.”

Camino Portugues

Travelers on El Camino. Staffan Andersson. CC0 1.0. 

An alternative to the Camino Frances, the Camino Portugues begins in Portugal and moves the coastline up to Galicia as the second most popular path for the Camino de Santiago pilgrimage. The route gained popularity in the 12th century after Portugal gained its independence when Queen Isabel of Portugal, known as the “Holy Queen,” made the pilgrimage herself in the 14th century. Today, the Camino Portugues sees about 25% of all travelers embarking on the pilgrimage. 

There are three main routes that travelers embarking on the Camino Portugues can choose from: the Central Route, which takes around 12 days, the Coastal Route, which takes between 12-14 days, and the Litoral Route, which follows the Coastal Route in large part while also incorporating pathways onto the beach. All routes meet in the Spanish town of Redondela before reaching Santiago de Compostela. 

Each route carries its own advantages and disadvantages. The Central Route has more infrastructure and access to towns and accommodations, however it is also the busiest route, seeing 70% of all travelers on the Camino Portugues. Comparatively, only about 30% of travelers opt for the Coastal Route, making it a quieter experience with less built-in tourism. 

Those starting the Camino Portugues from Porto will get to enjoy the city’s famous local port wine, the Baroque style Porto Cathedral — or Se do Porto — and the boat tours of the stunning Douro River. 

Vigo is a popular starting point for those who want to experience the last 60 miles  of the Camino, and the city offers a variety of activities including fish markets and a coastline overlooking the Cies Islands. 

Services such as Pilgrim help travelers create a personal guide for their trip, curated towards each individual’s preferred route and transportation type — including walking, cycling and completing the Camino on horseback or with pets. Pilgrim also helps connect travelers to special services while on the road, including the options to order bike gear, rent a car and transport personal luggage.  

Online guides are another helpful tool for travelers when it comes to finding rest stops and maps of nearby towns to explore along the Camino


Jessica Blatt

Jessica Blatt graduated from Barnard College with a degree in English. Along with journalism, she is passionate about creative writing and storytelling that inspires readers to engage with the world around them. She hopes to share her love for travel and learning about new cultures through her work.

Hagia Sophia: Istanbul’s Oldest Building

Having served as a church, mosque and museum, Hagia Sophia represents both religion and history in Istanbul. 

Hagia Sophia. Adli WahidCC BY-SA 3.0.

Built in the 6th Century, Hagia Sophia is the oldest building in Istanbul, Turkey. This ancient structure has been an important spiritual center for both Christians and Muslims, and its history is shown through its architectural features. Here is a deep-dive into the creation of Hagia Sophia, its meaning to different cultures, and how to visit it today.

History

Interior of Hagia Sophia. Wolfgang Guelcker. CC BY 3.0.

Originally named “Megale Ekklesia,” or “Great Church,” Hagia Sophia was built in 360 under Emperor Constantius. After the church was destroyed by riots in 404, it was rebuilt by Emperor Theodosius in 415. During this period, the church received its current name, “Hagia Sophia,” or “Holy Wisdom.” After being burned down during a revolt in 532, the final structure of Hagia Sophia was resurrected under Emperor Justinian I in 537, with some restorations in the 14th century. This version of the church was known as the Cathedral of the Ecumenical Patriarchate of Constantinople, which was a spiritual center of the Eastern Orthodox Church. After the Ottoman Empire took over Constintinople in 1453, Sultan Mehmet II repurposed Hagia Sophia, which served as a mosque until becoming a museum in 1935. In 1985, Hagia Sophia became a UNESCO World Heritage site, giving official recognition its long cherished cultural value. 

Controversy

Greek protest against Turkey. Des Byrne. CC BY 2.0.

In 2020, Hagia Sophia was renamed a mosque under the Turkish government. This decision created controversy between Turkey and other nations, as repurposing it as a mosque draws away from the entirety of the structure’s history and the mutual respect between religions. This also strengthened existing tensions between Turkey and Greece, as Hagia Sophia was once part of the Greek Orthodox Church.

Architecture

Dome

Main dome of Hagia Sophia. Osama Shukir Muhammed Amin. CC BY-SA 4.0.

Following St. Peter’s Basilica in Rome, Hagia Sophia is home to the second largest pendentive dome in the world. The main dome of the structure has a diameter of 107 feet and is supported by 4 pendentives, which are large triangular arches that meet in the middle of a structure. These structures are one of the earliestlarge pendentives to ever be made. There are also two semi-domes on each side of the main one, supported by columns.

Columns

Columns in Hagia Sophia. Serafita. CC BY-SA 4.0.

Hagia Sophia has 140 columns, all from different parts of the world. For example, the purple columns supporting the semi-domes of the structure originated in Egypt. There are also green columns from the Artemis Temple in Ephesus, an ancient Greek city. The most prominent columns are made of Verde Antique stone, which was mined from quarries in the city of Larissa, Greece during the Byzantine empire. These columns are 34 feet tall, and its material was used frequently during the 6th century.

Mosaics

Mosaic of the Virgin Mary and Jesus. World History Encyclopaedia. CC BY-NC-SA 4.0.

Originally, Hagia Sophia displayed many Christian mosaics, but these images were covered during the Ottoman Empire. Some of these mosaics depict angels and praise Jesus and the Virgin Mary, while others take the form of emperors such as Justinian and Constantine. One of the most iconic mosaics shows the Virgin Mary holding baby Jesus, and this image remains uncovered today. Created in the 860s, this is the oldest mosaic in Hagia Sophia.

How to Visit

People visiting Hagia Sophia. Magnus Manske. CC BY 2.0.

Though it has reverted to a mosque, Hagia Sophia is still open to the public. Visitors are required to remove their shoes before walking its carpets. Hagia Sophia is open to the public every day of the week, but closes to non-worshipping visitors during prayer hours. Guided tours of Hagia Sophia are also offered through different websites, usually for a fee.

Click here for more Hagia Sophia visitation guidelines.


Alexandra Copeland

Alexandra is a student at The College of New Jersey studying psychology and journalism. She is a lover of coffee, dancing, and visiting new places. Being raised with her Greek culture has inspired her interest in cultural customs around the world. She is a passionate writer and hopes that her work will make an impact in the future.

Visual Protest: The History and Legacy of the Berlin Wall Art

The Berlin Wall spent decades as a symbol for ideological division, but has become an outlet for personal expression.

Thierry Noir’s heads at the East Side Gallery. Paul VanDerWerf. CC by 2.0.

Visually, the East Side Gallery in Berlin, Germany is a vast edifice of technicolor concrete. Although only fragments of the original 96 mile (155 kilometer) wall remain, the sections that still stand are striking. From the flashes of aquamarine and mustard yellow featured in Thierry Noir’s iconic cartoon heads to the dark spray paint outlining miscellaneous graffiti, the murals are simultaneously imposing and welcoming. But the gallery's importance runs deeper than its appearance; decades of history and political turbulence echo through its fallen walls. 

When fully intact from 1961 until 1989, the Berlin Wall separated East Berlin from West Berlin; both halves were located well within East German territory, making West Berlin a NATO exclave in the Eastern Bloc. Prior to the wall's construction, emigration to West Germany by skilled workers, professionals, and intellectuals threatened East Germany’s economy. A few years after World War II, East Germany was constituted as a communist state controlled by the Soviet Union, while West Germany was formed out of the French, British and American occupation zones. The wall became a physical symbol of the Cold War: a division not only of Europe geographically, but also the global ideological divide between communism and democracy. 
In the midst of longstanding Soviet de facto control of East Berlin, in 1985 then-Soviet leader Mikhail Gorbachev introduced the reform policies of glasnost (“openness”) and perestroika (“restructuring”), referring primarily to freedom of expression and economic reform, respectively. This decision, coupled with the growing number of protests sweeping across multiple Soviet republics, created a breaking point that eventually erupted into mass action. On November 9th, 1989, East German spokesman Günter Schabowski announced that East Germans would be free to travel into West Germany, starting immediately. In reality, travel was supposed to commence the following day, with regulations to prevent complete freedom of movement. But it was too late for regulations, and the crowds of people from East Germany immediately began to climb and even physically break down the wall.

The fall of the Berlin Wall, 1989. Gavin Stewart. CC by 2.0.

Because of the long period of repression associated with the barrier, one might assume that civilians who had lived on either side would want nothing to do with it ever again. But in 1990, just months after the Wall fell, some of the most famous murals of the Berlin Wall were painted (some of the preserved graffiti, including Thierry Noir’s brightly-colored heads, was created even before the Wall fell). With a newfound sense of freedom, people found their voice through art and created pointed political, social and cultural commentary.

Arguably the most famous of these works is Dmitri Vrubel’s “My God, Help Me to Survive this Deadly Love.” Commonly referred to as “Fraternal Kiss,” Vrubel’s piece depicts East German leader Erich Honecker and Soviet leader Leonid Brezhnev kissing. The kiss between the two socialist leaders was a rare, but not unknown greeting — often socialist leaders would kiss each other thrice on each cheek after embracing and, at special events, would kiss on the mouth to demonstrate solidarity and brotherhood
The Brezhnev-Honecker mural was based on a real photograph of the event taken by Regis Bossu eleven years earlier, in 1979. The kiss took place after an economic agreement between the USSR and German Democratic Republic (the formal name of communist East Germany). The image was famous when it was originally taken, but Vrubel’s artistic rendering took its notoriety to new, unforeseen heights.

“My God, Please Help Me Survive this Deadly Love.” Andy Hay. CC by 2.0.

Although Vrubel’s iconic piece is perhaps the most recognizable mural, much of Berlin’s wall art would not have been painted without the help of Kani Alavi. Alavi was an organizer of the East Side Gallery, which invited artists from around the world to paint and express their reflections on the Cold War ideological divide and personal experiences. Alavi’s own visual contribution, “It Happened in November,” is a synthesis of personal experience and political commentary. The Berlin Wall consisted of two distinct walls separated by a gap for maximum security, and Alavi’s mural depicts thousands of faces walking between them on the day it came down. Alavi had viewed this scene personally from his apartment overlooking Checkpoint Charlie, which was the best-known border crossing between East and West Berlin.

“It Happened in November.” Fraser Mummery. CC by 2.0.

Alavi also directly helped inspire another of the most notable murals, the “Berlin Wall Trabant” by artist Birgit Kinder. Supposedly, Alavi told Kinder to paint anything she wanted on the wall, but she hesitated for a moment. It was only when she looked at her East-German manufactured Trabant car that she felt inspired. She began painting her car forcefully bursting through the wall, symbolizing the city’s escape from Soviet rule. Close observers will note that the license plate reads “Nov 9-89,” which is the day the Berlin Wall fell.

“Berlin Wall Trabant.” Judith. CC BY-NC 2.0.

When the wall fell, and the Soviet grip on East Germany loosened, creativity flowed. Artists visually translated their newfound freedom onto a canvas that had once held them captive. Their murals symbolized the reclamation of power by East Berlin’s formerly oppressed inhabitants. And with this somewhat-unlikely canvas they were able to recount their lived experience and depict the conflict and compromise of the world around them, concretely living in vivid color, forever.


Carina Cole

Carina Cole is a Media Studies student with a Correlate in Creative Writing at Vassar College. She is an avid journalist and occasional flash fiction writer. Her passion for writing overlaps with environmentalism, feminism, social justice, and a desire to travel beyond the United States. When she’s not writing, you can find her meticulously curating playlists or picking up a paintbrush.

5 Reasons to Visit Andorra

Here are some ways to enjoy the beauty and history of one of Europe’s smallest countries.

Andorra’s capital, Andorra la Vella. Tiia Monto. CC BY-SA 3.0.

Located between France and Spain, Andorra is a country of the Pyrenees mountains. The official language of Andorra is Catalan, yet many residents also speak Spanish, Portuguese, and French. With an area of 180 square miles and a population of fewer than 80,000 people, Andorra is one of the smallest countries in Europe. Though small, Andorra has much to offer, with sights and activities that make a visit well worth it. Here are five things to do when visiting Andorra.

1. Skiing

Grandvalira ski resort. Llull~commonswiki. CC BY-SA 2.0.

Due to its mountainous location, Andorra is home to great skiing locales. The country has three main ski areas, which are Grandvalira, Vallnord, and Ordino Arcalís. Grandvalira is the largest of the three resorts, with 130 miles of slope, most of that at the intermediate level. Vallnord has a ski lift connecting the villages of Arinsal and Pal, and you can try Speed Riding there, which is a mix of hand gliding and skiing. Ordino Arcalís is a smaller and less crowded resort. With its northern location, it produces the most snow of all of the resorts, and therefore has a longer ski season.

Exploring Andorra’s slopes is an unforgettable experience, but staying safe while adventuring is just as important. Whether you're carving through fresh powder or trekking its rugged trails, having the right travel insurance can give you peace of mind. SafetyWing offers affordable and flexible coverage, from emergency medical needs to comprehensive healthcare, all with built-in travel protection. No matter where your journey takes you, their Essential and Complete plans ensure you're covered every step of the way.

2. Visit the Mirador Roc del Quer

Mirador Roc del Quer. Roberto-g-rovi. CC BY 3.0.

At 6,417 feet, the Mirador Roc del Quer lookout provides a great view of the Pyrenees mountains. With 12 meters of the walkway being detached from the ground, it creates the illusion of walking through the scenic view. At the end of the Mirador Roc del Quer, there is a statue called “The Ponderer” by artist Miguel Ángel González. This statue depicts a man calmly sitting on a beam looking at the view, unbothered by the drop from where he is sitting. Whether it be for sightseeing or picture-taking, the Mirador Roc del Quer is worth visiting when in Andorra.

3. Tour La Casa de la Vall

La Casa de la Vall. Zinneke. CC BY-SA 3.0.

Built in 1580, La Casa de la Vall was originally built as a manor house for the Busquets family. From 1702 until 2011, it served as headquarters for the Consell General, which is Andorra’s parliament. Today, it serves as a monument that is open to the public. The first floor once held the Criminal Court, as well as the Hall of Lost Steps, a room with walls made of 16th century paintings. This floor also holds the Cupboard of Seven Keys, which has a key to each of the seven Andorran parishes, along with significant historical documents. The second floor of La Casa de la Vall was once an attic, but it was renovated to become a multipurpose area, often used for exhibitions.

4. Hike Rec del Solà

Rec del Solà. Kulmalukko. CC BY-SA 3.0.

Within its mountains, Andorra offers many hiking opportunities. Beginning at the San Ermengol plateau, Rec del Sola is a five mile hiking trail connecting to the Rec del Obac trail. With an altitude of 1,122 meters, this trail passes through orchards and gardens, where local Andorrans grow vegetables. Towards the middle of the trail, there is a picnic area, where hikers can take a break and enjoy the view. Most of the trail is shaded from the sun, making it a great option for the summer season.

5. Visit the Museo Postal

Museo Postal. Kippelboy. CC BY-SA 3.0.

The Museo Postal, or Postal Museum, exhibits the history of Andorra’s postal services. By foot and by ski, the museum shows the complete history of delivery methods in Andorra over the years. There are 50,000 Andorran stamps displayed, along with exhibits that show how these stamps were made and the process of mail delivery in Andorra today. The museum offers guided tours to guests, but visitors can also explore on their own with an audio guide.


Alexandra Copeland

Alexandra is a student at The College of New Jersey studying psychology and journalism. She is a lover of coffee, dancing, and visiting new places. Being raised with her Greek culture has inspired her interest in cultural customs around the world. She is a passionate writer and hopes that her work will make an impact in the future.

Between the Cracks in Turkey: Exploring the Small Towns of the Crossroads of the World

Step off the beaten path and discover these six small towns in Turkey brimming with artifacts, natural wonders and rich history.

The beachtown of Kaş. Tutky Çetinel. CC BY 3.0.

One of the most renowned and well traveled cities in the world, Istanbul, peaked at 16 million tourists last year. The mosque- and artifact-riddled city attracts crowds that make it, for lack of a better word, a travel destination. Yet, some of Turkey’s most beautiful landscapes, edifices and history lie outside of its metropolis. Trek off the beaten path and journey to these six small towns in rural Turkey.

1. Safranbolu

Overview of Safranbolu. Ray Swi-hymn. CC BY-SA 2.0.

Once a trading center, this historic town is now home to many artifacts scattered throughout its ~390,000 square miles and among its three historical districts: Cukur, Kirankoy and Baglar. Some of its characteristic antiquities found in the Old Town include tombs, baths, mosques, fountains, and houses. Dive further into exploration with Safronbolu’s Old Mosque, the Old Bath, and the Suleyman Pasha Medrese, an Islamic religious institution, built in the 14th century. This UNESCO World Heritage site is worth discovering.

2. Kas

Rugs on a building in Kas. Julian Mason. CC BY 2.0.

This delightful beach town in Turkey’s Antalya Province doesn’t resemble the tourist-filled streets of the region’s eponymous city. Kas’s pleasant turquoise waters and lively color make the town stand out from Antalya’s busy, fast-paced life. While outdoor activities abound in this town — for example, canyoning is open to all travelers and day-long outdoor attractions like the Xanthos and Patara antique cities — a vibrant nightlife along the beautiful beaches awaits all visitors. Jazz clubs and rock bars alike welcome you to the wondrous city of Kas.

3. Iskilip

Rock tombs of Iskilip. Aerdemsenturk. CC BY-SA 4.0.

Just a 3-hour drive away from Ankara, Iskilip is another UNESCO heritage site on our list. This castle town’s epicenter is the Iskilip Castle, bordered by the town’s verdant mountains. While the Iskilip Castle is itself a site of historical importance, its base contains many Roman era tombs that are the real draw for many visitors. Iskilip is also a town of craftsmen; copper smiths, basket weavers, blacksmiths, cobblers, wood carvers and more set up shop in between houses, in houses, and everywhere in the town.

4. Midyat

Mor Sarbel Church. Senol Demir. CC BY 2.0.

In between the narrow cobblestone streets of Midyat lie ~410,000 square miles of artifacts, a structural chronicle of the past. The town, an hour drive from the Mardin province, houses unique sand-colored buildings. Among them is a series of religious edifices like the Ulu Cami, or mosque, with its characteristic minaret that towers over the surrounding buildings, the Mor Barsarmo Kilise, a church, and the Syrian-Orthodox Mor Sarbel church. Perhaps interesting, however, is Matiate, the official name of Midyat’s underground sites. Matiate is the largest cave system in the world, and is worth exploring along with the other wonders of Midyat.

5. Amasya

Houses in Amasya. Cobija. CC BY-SA 4.0.

This small town, much like others in this list, is a site of historical gravity. Three historical structures frame and define Amasya. First, the Amasya Castle, located at the top of Mount Harsena, is the center of this riverside city. While the climb to reach the castle can be steep, the view of Amasya’s green river and quaint houses has no peers. Second, the Amasya Museum is home to 24,000 artifacts from Anatolia including great stoneworks credited to the Hittites, Romans, Byzantines and Ottomans. Lastly, the Pontic Kings’ Rock Tombs, sepulchers carved into limestone rock formations, remind visitors of the once great Hellenistic Kingdom of Pontus, a stalwart enemy of Rome. 

6. Camlihemsin

A river in Camlihemsin. Serra Kiziltas. CC BY-SA 4.0.

Located near the Black Sea region of Turkey, Camlihemsin  is the smallest of the towns listed here, with an area of ~340,000 square miles. Much of the appeal of this town is its flora and fauna: with stately trees and grass-covered mountains, the town is perfect for hiking and mountain climbing. Hilltops embraced by surrounding clouds beautify the landscape. Waterfalls such as the Palovit Selalesi, a frequent reward for long hikes, also grace the town. Of course, one particular large historical artifact — the Zilkale medieval castle located in Fırtına Valley — caters to nature-naysayers.


Su Ertekin-Taner

Su is a first year student at Columbia University majoring in creative writing. Her love for the power of words and her connection to her Turkish roots spills into her satire, flash fiction, and journalistic pieces among other genres. Su hopes to continue writing fearless journalism, untold stories, and prose inspired by her surroundings.

The Peace Walls in Belfast and the Politics of Separation

Today, there are efforts to take down the walls that have separated the loyalist and nationalist neighborhoods in Belfast for over fifty years. 

Murals along the Falls Road side of Belfast’s Peace Walls. Megan Coughlin. CC BY-ND 2.0

The Walls are not only a reminder of a violent history, but a medium for artistic expression and international solidarity.

The origin of the partition that defines Ireland today can be traced back to the early 1920’s, when a successful Irish rebellion from British rule led the island to be broken up into two countries. The Irish Free State gained independence from the United Kingdom, while Northern Ireland remained part of the British state. Irish Nationalists, who generally support an island-wide Irish republic, are predominantly Catholic, while British Loyalists/Unionists are mostly Protestants.

The 1960s saw the beginning of ‘the Troubles’ in Northern Ireland. The Troubles refer to the period of violence, riots, and unconventional warfare between the British state and Loyalists paramilitaries, who believed Northern Ireland should remain part of the United Kingdom, and Irish Nationalist paramilitaries, who wanted Northern Ireland to join the rest of the island as a United Ireland. 

It was within the context of the Troubles that the first Northern Ireland peace walls were built in 1969, after days of intense rioting in Belfast and Derry/Londonderry. Originally constructed as a temporary structure to ensure peace between the two sides, the walls have hardened into semi-permanent lines that continue to divide the cities today. 

The signing of the Good Friday Agreement in 1998, marked the end of the Troubles. The agreement set up an autonomous legislature and government that could legally only be governed by a coalition of  Unionist and Nationalist political parties. Furthermore, while still recognizing Northern Ireland as a part of the U.K., the agreement also acknowledged the possibility for the area to one day unite with the rest of Ireland should a majority vote to do so.

The Good Friday Agreement was a pivotal marker of peace and cooperation between the two sides. However today, some 25 years after its signing, peace walls continue to divide Catholic and Protestant neighborhoods in Belfast. 

One of the largest of these peace walls runs along the Falls and Shankill Roads in West Belfast and divides two major Catholic and Protestant neighborhoods. The wall is interrupted by stretches of metal gates, several of which still maintain a curfew, including the Townsend Street gates which closes every weekday night and throughout the weekend. The enduring curfew speaks to the continued tensions between Belfast’s Catholic and Protestant communities, which have been reinforced by the 2016 Brexit referendum. 

But today, the walls are not just borders of separation. They’re also a canvas of artistic expression. 

The Shankill and Loyalist side of the divide depicts memorializations of those killed by the Irish Republican Army (IRA) and tributes to the Ulster Defense Association, a Loyalist paramilitary organization founded in 1971. A portrait of King WIlliam, known as William of Orange, looks out upon the neighborhood where Union Jacks decorate the streets.

In contrast, the Falls Road and Irish nationalist side of the divide touts the orange and green Irish tricolor. Here, murals celebrate national pride with depictions of Gaelic sports and memorializations to national heroes, including a large portrait painted on the side of Sinn Fein Political Party Press Office of Bobby Sands, a popular IRA leader and elected MP who died of hunger strike while imprisoned. 

It is also on the Falls side that one can see the famous International Wall, depicting images of global civil rights leaders the likes of which include Fredrick Douglass, Nelson Mandela, Harriet Tubaman, the Rev. Martin Luther King Jr., and Bob Marley. In this neighborhood, it is common to Palestinian flags hanging in people’s windows, aligning a mission to free Irish land from British rule with that of occupied territory in Palestine. A mural on the International Wall depicts hands clasped between prison bars, one of which is draped in an Irish national flag, the other in a Palestinian flag. 

Murals along the peace wall that runs through Shankill and Falls Road. Mike McBride. CC BY-NC 2.0

In 2013, a project called Together: Building a United Community was launched by the Northern Ireland Executive. The project called for the removal of all walls in Northern Ireland by 2023, but progress has been slow and in January of 2023, about 60 walls still remain. In a 2015 survey by Ulster University on public attitudes towards the peace walls, about 35% of respondents wanted the peace walls  ‘come down some time in the future’ with 40% of Catholics and 25% of Protestants surveyed sharing this position, while 44% of Protestants and 23% of Catholics ‘would like things left the way they are now’.

While the future of the peace walls remains uncertain, their presence serves as a striking visual reminder of division within a city that is increasingly embracing a global economy and multiculturalism, the very extent of which is exemplified by the international calls for peace and solidarity in the artwork that lines the divided city. 

To Get Involved

The Social Change Initiative (SCI) is working to support peacebuilding and dialogue between Nationalists and Unionists. Based in Northern Ireland, SCI partners with local activists and publishes articles and reports that detail the strategies and reflections of those working directly within divided communities. SCI also connects local leaders to a global community of human rights activists through fellowships and mentoring programs, in an effort to create an international network through which individuals can share communication and advocacy tactics as well as strategies for peacebuilding and conflict disruption.

How To Visit

One of the most popular ways for travelers’ to experience and learn about Belfast’s peace walls is through Black Taxi Cab tours. 

The tours began in the 1970s and are recognized for their effort to provide a balanced and unbiased history of Belfast. The black taxis were first employed as a kind of bus service in the midst of the Troubles in order to transport working class people from their neighborhoods to the city center. The tours are notably co-run by Catholics and Protestants, allowing visitors to hear perspectives from both communities as they travel across the Falls and Shankill roads.


Jessica Blatt

Jessica Blatt graduated from Barnard College with a degree in English. Along with journalism, she is passionate about creative writing and storytelling that inspires readers to engage with the world around them. She hopes to share her love for travel and learning about new cultures through her work.

The Dark Side of Czechia's Thriving Sex Industry

Legal but unregulated, the Czech sex industry leaves workers vulnerable to exploitation, abuse and trafficking.

A poster promoting sex in Prague. A. Curell. CC BY-NC 2.0

The grim specter of sexual slavery still lingers in the underbelly of many Eastern European capitals. Prague, the capital of the Czech Republic, is no exception. Despite the world's fascination with Czechia's natural landscapes and medieval castles, the city remains home to thousands of women trapped in the grips of human trafficking, specifically forced sexwork, while their basic human rights are stripped away and their voices silenced. While a thriving sex industry has bolstered the country's economy since the Velvet Revolution of 1989, it's a complex issue that requires attention. In 2019, estimates suggested that between 12,000 to 13,000 women worked in the country’s sex industry, with many being victims of trafficking or coercion. It's important to differentiate between sex work which involves consensual engagement in commercial sex, and sex work which involves force, coercion, or deceit. In the Czech Republic, all sex work is permissible under the law, meaning the issue of consent often operates in a gray area leaving sex workers are vulnerable to discrimination, abuse and sex trafficking.

In fact, a thriving sex industry has been a mainstay of the country’s economy since the Velvet Revolution of 1989, when the Czech and Slovak peoples overthrew their communist dictatorship before peacefully splitting up into the contemporary Czech and Slovak states. In 2008 The New York Times revealed the sex industry in the Czech Republic was raking in more than $500 million in annual revenues, with 60 percent of that coming from foreign visitors. It is a booming business that continues to thrive. According to some estimates, 12,000 to 13,000 women worked as sex workers in the Czech Republic in 2019, making the industry a significant source of employment. But who does this employment truly benefit?

The history of sex work in Czechia is a complicated story that stretches back decades. The early of the 20th century brought a period of tremendous upheaval, as the world underwent rapid changes in population, urbanization, and political power. World War I led to the creation of an independent Czecho-Slovak state for the first time in centuries, and the age of machines brought with it unparalleled economic growth. Unfortunately, these shifts also paved the way for a spike in the trafficking of women and girls, with many of the victims being brought in from other European countries.

In the nineteenth and twentieth centuries, state regulation was the dominant way authorities dealt with the sex industry in Europe, with governments implementing mandatory health checks, police surveillance, and registering sex workers. While sex work remains legal in most European Union countries, a select few—France, Sweden, and Ireland—have implemented the Nordic model of neo-abolitionism, which decriminalizes sex workers  but prohibits buying sex.

The Czech Republic’s attitude towards the dangers of an unregulated sex industry has long been ambiguous. While the industry was recognized in 2010, no legal framework was put in place. As a result, sex work is legal but remains largely unregulated. On the policy level, the legal status of sex work has been a highly contentious issue in Czechia, with no clear consensus among politicians or the public. 

The reality is that paying for sex is a prevalent practice throughout the country, with Prague and the western and northern Bohemia regions on the German and Austria borders serving as hotspots for brothels. Prague's “Red Light Districts” can be found through online guides, offering access to a trade in sexual services. While seemingly legal, the unregulated sex market in Czechia is a breeding ground for exploitation and abuse. Although the sale and purchase of sexual services by adult sex workers over 18 are not illegal, crimes such as pimping, trafficking, and brothel operations are punishable offenses. Moreover, institutions like ShowParks, the largest de facto brothel in Prague, operate under a cloak of legal ambiguity. By renting apartments to young women with no questions asked, the owners of ShowParks skirt the law, leaving the activities that take place between the walls of rented rooms entirely up to the discretion of women and their clients, or in a worst-case scenario, pimps who sexually and financially exploit sex workers with no questions asked.

Prague by night. Schaffhauser Balázs. CC BY-NC-ND 2.0.

According to a Czech journalist who investigated Charles Square sex workers, women charge as little as $45 (CZK1000) for vaginal sex and $25 (CZK500) for oral sex. But many of these women are not in control of their earnings, as they rely on business operators or managers who take a hefty cut of their income. For many sex workers facing dire living conditions and scant economic prospects, the sex industry is a last resort to cope with the harsh realities of poverty and instability. Around 60% of them shoulder the responsibilities of single motherhood, often caring for two or more children without state or paternal support. The situation speaks to the wider issue of poverty, gender inequality, and social exclusion faced by this underrepresented community. Though the Czech Republic has made progress in reducing poverty and social exclusion, persistent ethnic discrimination and socioeconomic inequality continue to impede improvement. For example, members of the Roma minority are at a much higher risk of poverty, which will likely require concrete government action to address. The lack of women represented in leadership roles is a persistent issue, with women holding only a quarter of national parliamentary seats in both the public and economic domains in the Czech Republic. According to Safarik, Czech women earn $329 (CZK 7,000) less per month on average than men.

The legal gray area surrounding the sex work in the Czech Republic also opens the door to one of its most sinister aspects: human trafficking. With the fall of communism in 1989, the sex trade gained access to fresh resources, both geographical and human, that enabled the exploitation of women from Eastern Europe. According to the 2022 Trafficking in Persons Report from Romania and Czech Republic, the Czech government has only limited data collection and uses narrow criteria for identifying trafficking victims, which has led to a significant undercounting of the true number of victims. Women from countries such as Ukraine, Romania, and Vietnam are often forced into sex work in the Czech Republic and then transported to other parts of Europe for further exploitation. 

Meanwhile, men and women from countries such as Russia and Thailand are at risk of being forced into labor in industries such as construction and agriculture in Czechia and are frequently trafficked through the country to other parts of the European Union. Most recently, as the conflict in Ukraine rages on, an alarming trend has emerged in the Czech Republic: human traffickers taking advantage of vulnerable individuals. With the displacement of over 8 million Ukrainians, 80% of whom are women, UN Secretary General António Guterres recently warned that women and children are being targeted by these traffickers. A report by Czech outlet Lidovky revealed that some pimps in the Czech Republic are luring Ukrainian refugee women into forced sex work. The pimps are said to be targeting young mothers, whom they consider to be a “safer” option.

Destigmatizing and decriminalizing sex work, while respecting individual choice is a policy recommended by many human rights organizations. The Czech Parliament has considered reform bills which propose extensive regulation of the sex industry, although the issue remains unresolved. Reform efforts have prioritized clients and public order over the safety of sex workers. Ongoing impartial and qualified research on sex work and migration is crucial for determining the next steps forward in providing social welfare to all professions, including the sex industry.

To Get Involved:

Click here to discover Urban Justice Center Sex Workers Project, a US national organization that provides free legal services, education, research, and policy advocacy to destigmatize and decriminalize sex workers and to defend their human rights.

Click here to discover European Sex Workers Rights Alliance (ESWA), a network led by sex workers representing over 100 organizations across 30 countries in Europe and Central Asia. Their goal is to create a sustainable network for national, regional, and international advocacy activities that drive long-term, systemic change.


Hope Zhu

Hope is a Chinese international student at Wake Forest University in North Carolina studying sociology, statistics, and journalism. She dreams of traveling around the globe as a freelance reporter while touching on a wide range of social issues from education inequality to cultural diversity. Passionate about environmental issues and learning about other cultures, she is eager to explore the globe. In her free time, she enjoys cooking Asian cuisine, reading, and theater.

How King Leopold’s Colonial Legacy Still Haunts the Congo Today

Occupied by Belgians for almost 80 years, the effects of colonization still resonate in the Democratic Republic of the Congo decades after independence.

A refugee center in the Democratic Republic of the Congo. United Nations Photo. CC BY-NC-ND 2.0.

As the leader of the small European country of Belgium in the 1880s, King Leopold II did not have much political clout with his fellow European statesmen. He wanted more political power so he achieved this by gaining personal control of a vast swath of Central Africa, which became the Congo Free State. King Leopold ruthlessly subjugated the local populations of the region in order to extract as much raw materials such as ivory and rubber as possible, committing human rights violations in the process. It was not until 1902 when Joseph Conrad published the novel Heart of Darkness criticizing Leopold’s administration of the Congo and in 1904 when Edmund Dene Morel published a report detailing the atrocities in the Congo did Western public opinion turn against King Leopold, who was forced in 1908 to relinquish control of the Congo Free State to the Belgian government.

Today, those atrocities committed by King Leopold and the Belgians are still felt by the area, now the Democratic Republic of the Congo (DRC). The relationship that the Belgian colonial administration espoused was one of paternalism, where the Congolese were treated like children, which resulted in them unprepared for self-determination. When the DRC gained independence in 1960, it plunged into a state of sporadic political conflicts due to the dictatorship of Mobutu Sese Seko that lasted until the 1990s. The peace that ended that drawn out conflict only lasted a short time, and violence soon erupted again. 

Currently, the eastern region of the country is held by at least 122 rebel groups, with the legitimate government struggling to control the region. That has caused more than 5 million people to be displaced between 2017 and 2019 and an additional 72,000 and counting since May 2022, with many fleeing areas controlled by rebel groups. Many areas receiving refugees are overwhelmed and do not have the proper infrastructure to support them.

The almost incessant warfare since independence may seem unconnected to the legacy of imperialism, but that is not the case. The seeds for the present political instability were sowed when the Congo was under Belgian rule. The Congo is a region with vast natural resources, from ivory and rubber of old to the mineral wealth of today. The abundance of raw materials and resources  was exactly why Congo was colonized. When the borders of Africa were carved up by European powers, no regard was made to the various tribes already living in the area. Some groups of people were divided between different countries, and enemy tribes sometimes found themselves within the same domain. When the DRC gained independence, the various tribes were not united, leading to no coherent vision for the future of the country, thus sowing political instability.

In addition, since the purpose of the Congo Free State was solely to enrich King Leopold and later Belgium, there was no effort to develop a political or academic class among the local population. As such, at independence, there was no model of self-governance to follow after decades of infantilization by Europeans. That caused Mobutu Sese Seko to take advantage of the power vacuum and install himself dictator for more than 30 years.

The international response to the violence in the DRC has deprived the country of even more of its sustenance. International companies are refusing to do business with the DRC due to its human rights violations, depriving many of the mining jobs that they depend on. In order to survive, those people end up joining rebel groups, further perpetuating the violence. 

The cycle of violence that started with Belgian occupation did not end in the 1990s. Subsequent leaders of the DRC used violence to consolidate their rule, since that was the only method they ever experienced. But, efforts have been made to ensure a sustainable future. The UN is stepping in by giving the DRC a peacebuilding fund to provide services to ex-rebels to reintegrate into their communities and to support over 300 women miners to better manage their sites and defend their rights. UNICEF also supports school reopenings, an essential indicator of peace. By prioritizing the reopening of schools in conflict zones, UNICEF ensures peaceful coexistence after prolonged conflict. The outside aid that the DRC is receiving gives local communities the agency to control their future. 

To Get Involved

Cordaid is one organization providing humanitarian aid to the region. Another organization working to improve conditions by enabling local communities to form cooperatives that can successfully sustain peace in the communities in the DRC is Peace Direct.



Bryan Fok

Bryan is currently a History and Global Affairs major at the University of Notre Dame. He aims to apply the notion of Integral Human Development as a framework for analyzing global issues. He enjoys hiking and visiting national parks.

LGBTQ+ Life and Culture in Iceland

Iceland has a reputation for being one of the safest and most accepting countries for the LGBTQ+ community, travelers as well as Icelandic residents.

Pride flags in Reykjavík. Symbioticadesign. CC BY-NC 2.0.

While Iceland is an unusually safe and accepting place today, it has had a rocky history with LGBTQ+ rights just like everywhere else. Because Iceland is so geologically isolated from the rest of the world, Icelandic people rarely even married people from other countries prior to World War II. During World War II, Icelandic women began coupling up with and marrying non-Icelandic soldiers who were stationed in the country, and even these heterosexual relationships were met with disdain. This attachment to “traditional marriage” bled over into the public perception of LGBT+ relationships, meaning that homophobia was also rampant at that time. Even thirty years later, the first famous Icelander to come out as gay in the 1970s, Hörður Torfason, was driven out of Iceland by the extreme homophobia he faced.

However, the tide turned relatively quickly in Iceland between the 1970s and the 1990s, but not without great struggle. In 1978, the Icelandic National Queer Organization was formed, which played a major role in promoting gay rights in Iceland. In 1996, Iceland became the fourth European country to officially recognize same-sex unions. By 2004, 87% of Icelanders supported gay marriage (which was officially legalized in 2010) while in 2004, only 42% of Americans did.

Today, Iceland is a popular travel destination for LGBTQ+ travelers wishing to go somewhere that they can feel comfortable and safe. In fact, Iceland has several popular travel guides and agencies that specifically serve LGBTQ+ travelers: Gay Ice and Pink Iceland. While these websites acknowledge that like anywhere, queer people can still be targetted in Iceland, it is apparently rare, and most hotels, nightlife, gyms and other public places are known to be accommodating of same-sex relationships as well as transgender and nonbinary identities, providing gender-neutral facilities and acknolwedging and respecting preferred pronouns. 

Reykjavík Pride 2009. Filip J. Cauz. CC BY-NC-SA 2.0. 

A large number of businesses and homes in Iceland have pride flags outside their windows, and Iceland hosts several LGBTQ+ events throughout the year that attract hundreds of thousands of tourists. In fact, travelers for the Reykjavík Pride Festival, which occurs in August, account for nearly a quarter of the people in Iceland that month. Reykjavík Pride is regarded as one of the major events of the year in Iceland for everyone, not only people who identify under the queer umbrella. How widespread and anticipated Reykjavík Pride is each year reflects how far Iceland has come in terms of acceptance and safety for LGBTQ+ people. Reykjavík also has a festival in February, called the Reykjavík Rainbow Festival. This is another highly anticipated and attended LGBTQ+ festival in Iceland. Additionally, there are smaller celebrations throughout the year all over the country. 

Iceland is known for being very open about same-sex relationships, with queer couples openly showing affection in public generally without fear. There are also LGBTQ+ historical landmarks in Iceland: Gay Ice recommends the LGBT History Walk, which is a walking tour through Reykjavík’s most important LGBTQ+ destinations, along with information about historical events in Iceland throughout the LGBTQ+ rights movement. 

Iceland is an excellent destination at any time of year for anyone, but especially travelers in the LGBTQ+ community. However, August and February are two of the most interesting and inspiring times to visit, so that one can catch the famous pride festivals.


Calliana Leff

Calliana is currently an undergraduate student at Boston University majoring in English and minoring in psychology. She is passionate about sustainability and traveling in an ethical and respectful way. She hopes to continue her writing career and see more of the world after she graduates. 

5 Alcoholic Drinks Made By European Monks

Catholic monks throughout Europe make and sell liquors, beers and wines to travelers, using recipes they have cultivated and perfected over centuries. 

Different types of Scotch Whisky. Jaygoldman. CC BY-NC-SA 2.0. 

Some of the world's major religions prohibit or dissuade their followers from consuming alcohol. Usually, the disapproval of the substance comes from the idea that alcohol consumption leads to addiction, loss of wisdom and more negative outcomes. Buddhist monks condemn alcohol and its consumption. The Quran, the holy text of Islam, prohibits it. Hinduism does not use alcohol in religious contexts but social drinking varies from person to person. But the Catholic faith is inherently linked to the consumption and creation of alcohol. 

Jesus’s first miracle was turning water into wine. Wine was biblically said to “gladden the heart of men (Psalm 104:15)” and was consumed for celebrations. Alcohol also takes a central place in many important practices of the Catholic faith; in taking communion, church goers have a sip of wine. Still to this day, Catholic monks across Europe emphasize the importance of alcohol in their faith by continuing the tradition of making it at monasteries and abbeys. However, the alcohol monks make is not typically for sacramental use, but rather commercial sale and consumption. Travelers from across the globe can taste the different liquors, beers and wines made by Catholic monks, each drink having a unique link back to the faith and history as a whole.  

1. Chartreuse

 

Chartreuse Liquor. Jeremy Brooks. CC BY-NC 2.0.

 

Chartreuse is a French liquor made by the Carthusian monks for more than 200 years. Originally, the liquor was intended to have medicinal properties that extended life spans, but the liquor’s taste popularized it for regular consumption. The liquor’s recipe was given to them by François-Annibal d’Estrées, a French diplomat and soldier, who was closely affiliated with the Catholic Church. The liquor is still made at the monastery located in the Chartreuse Mountains in southeastern France.

Chartreuse is an herbally infused alcohol and is available in both green and yellow colorings. The infused spices leave distinct flavors in the alcohol; herbs like mint, sage and vanilla boldly come through when consumed. Both Green Chartreuse and Yellow Chartreuse vary in flavor, the Green having a strong, almost spicy flavor due to the 130 herbs used to distill it. Yellow Chartreuse is milder and lower in alcohol content, which gives it a sweeter taste when compared to its Green counterpart.

The monks of Grande Chartreuse monastery sell the liquor they make themselves from the distillery they have in Aiguenoire, France, and also from their website. The monks are the only ones who know the real recipe for Chartreuse liquor, making the liquor a coveted asset for craft-cocktail makers. Chartreuse ranges in price, costing anywhere between $50-100, some bottles even exceeding that range. 

2. Aromas De Montserrat

The monastery at Montserrat.  Bert Kaufmannis. CC BY-SA 2.0.

Aromas de Montserrat is a Spanish herbal wine made by Montserrat Monastery monks. The monastery, located on Montserrat mountain, has been a Catholic practicing monastery for over a century. The monastery is now a place of pilgrimage in Spain, which can be accredited to their possession of the Black Madonna, a statue of the Virgin Mary found in a cave in Montserrat. Known as the patron saint of Catalonia, the Black Madonna brings hundreds of travelers a day to the monastery in the mountains.  Besides being a hub for religious history and pilgrimage, the monastery is also known for the wine they make and sell to those who visit.

On the mountain itself, 13 naturally growing spices can be found scattered throughout the foliage. Those who walk or hike the trails of the mountain can smell the rosemary and thyme that clings to the air. Protected by the monastery, and due to its significance as a place of pilgrimage, the only people who have access to the herbs are the monks—visitors are forbidden to pick any spices, and those who do are met with the consequences of heavily enforced conservation laws. However the monks –  able to pick the naturally growing spices for their own needs – use the herbs that grow on their mountain to make their famous Spanish wine.

Using 12 of the spices from their land, the monks of Montserrat distill the wine in copper stills, which is then moved into barrels so the liquid can ferment and age properly. Hints of cinnamon, sage, thyme and more can be tasted when enjoying the wine, which is widely sold in Barcelona and the Catalonian region of Spain for around $25. The wine is said to be dry with a spicy—if not overpowering—taste of the herbs used to distill it. 

3. Trappist Beer

Trappist Beer.  French Disko. CC BY-NC-SA 2.0.

Trappist beer is brewed by Trappist monks, who practice Catholicism in monasteries and abbeys across the globe. Trappist beer is made in 14 different monasteries, most of which are spread across Europe—only one residing in the United States. Other countries with Trappist monasteries include Belgium, the Netherlands, Austria, Italy, England, Spain and France.

The production of trappist beer is regulated by the International Trappist Association (ITA), which connects the many Trappist branches and promotes the sale and production of the beer they make. The ITA lists the specific parameters that must be met in order to brew and sell Trappist beer, and if such criteria is met, the ITA stamps the beer as an Authentic Trappist Product (ATP). Trappist beer must be made within the walls of a Trappist Abbey, monks must conduct all of the production themselves, and the profits may only be used to meet any needs in the community.

Most of the abbeys that make Trappist beer allow tours of the breweries and allow travelers to sample and purchase the beer directly from the monastery. Each monastery produces its own unique beer, so travelers who visit different abbeys may encounter a completely new drinking experience each time.

The taste is described by Home Brew Journals as “malty, bready, sweet, spicy” and is said to come in fruit flavors such as apple, cherry and pear.

4. Aqua Vitae (Scotch Whisky)

Lindores Abbey Distillery sign. Dave Paterson. CC BY 2.0.

Monk Friar John Cor, who coined the term “aqua vitae,” or “water of life,” created what we know today to be Scotch Whisky. Lindores Abbey, the birthplace of Scotch Whisky and where Friar John practiced his devout faith, is still a place where Scotch Whisky is distilled. Although the whisky’s recipe comes from the monks, it is now made by a distillery company. However, Lindores Abbey Distillery, headed by Andrew McKenzie Smith, uses the original recipe for Scotch Whisky to perfect and produce its product, keeping with the monks’ original centuries-old practices.

Lindores, dubbed “the spiritual home of Scotch Whisky,” was the place McKenzie Smith decided to build his new distillery. Smith also plans to use fruit from the abbey’s orchard to flavor the whisky in the future. The liquor is now being sold under the name Lindores Scotch Whisky, an ode to the abbey that housed the creators of the liquor.

Scotch Whisky is described as smooth and silky. It has citrus hints, coupled with fruity undertones and flavors. The aftertaste is said to be smoky and sweet. Travelers can visit the distillery, which is right across the street from the abbey. Travelers can explore this too, but Lindores Abbey is practically ruins now, having not been maintained or used for many years. Those who wish to try the whisky on location can, and those who wish to purchase a bottle of Lindores for themselves can do so for around $50.

5. Buckfast Tonic Wine

Buckfast Bottle on the Street. BinaryApe. CC BY 2.0.

Buckfast tonic wine is produced by monks at Buckfast Abbey in England. The wine is made with caffeine, and The Guardian states “each bottle contains around eight times the caffeine of a can of coke.” The properties of this wine, being 15% alcohol and pumped with caffeine, are said to cause those who drink it to get high rather than drunk. Such effects of Buckfast wine have led to increased crime in certain areas of Europe, but Buckfast monks are rejecting the opinion that their wine is to blame. Monks at the abbey claim that the wine is not made to be abused, and that binge-drinking is the real problem. In Scotland, where the wine gained prominence due to its similarity to communion wine, crime is heavily attributed to the wine. Now used recreationally, an area in Scotland dubbed the Buckfast Triangle attributes for nearly 10% of the wine’s sales.  , . Additionally, nearly 7,000 crime reports in that area are connected to the overconsumption of Buckfast wine..

Buckfast Abbey in England is open for church visits, mass and tours of the monastery. The wine is sold globally and can be purchased for around $20 a bottle. Vice describes the flavor of Buckfast as “syrup-thick,” tasting like “a palatable mixture of berry-flavored cola and cough medicine.” Buckfast is the perfect drink for those looking to be adventurous, while also being willing to walk the line between daring and dangerous.



Ava Mamary

Ava is an undergraduate student at the University of Illinois, double majoring in English and Communications. At school, she Web Writes about music for a student-run radio station. She is also an avid backpacker, which is where her passion for travel and the outdoors comes from. She is very passionate about social justice issues, specifically those involving women’s rights, and is excited to write content about social action across the globe. 

11 Ways to Help Ukraine

Help support the Ukrainian people as their country is invaded.

The ongoing war in Ukraine has caused hundreds of civilian deaths, with more than 2 million refugees having already fled the country. It is crucial in these trying times that Ukrainians know they have support. Here are some ways to help. 

Meduza

“Within a few days, maybe even today, it is possible that there will be no independent media left in Russia,” read a post on Meduza’s website. Meduza is an independent media source at extreme risk of losing its platform to inform the public. Russian President Vladimir Putin is working to have complete control over censorship in Russia and Ukraine, meaning citizens of these countries will no longer have access to any information besides what Russia’s government allows. Meduza has already been blocked in Russia, and now it is fighting to stay alive through the support of allies outside of these countries. The organization is looking for financial support and social media awareness.

For more information and to donate, visit Meduza’s website

Reporters Without Borders

Reporters Without Borders is a worldwide independent media organization that works to keep freedom of the press and information to citizens of the world. According to their site, on March 4, Russia adopted a new law making the “publication of ‘false’ or ‘mendacious’ information about the Russian armed forces punishable by up to 15 years in prison.” This threatens every single independent media outlet in Russia and Ukraine. Support Reporters Without Borders through sponsorship, donations, volunteering and more listed on the website. 

For more information and to support, visit Reporters Without Borders’ website. 

The Kyiv Independent

The Kyiv Independent was launched three months ago by journalists who had been fired in Ukraine for defending editorial independence. Now, they are playing a vital role in keeping the freedom of the press alive in Russia and Ukraine. On their website, they have options to “become a patron” and donate to the organization’s GoFundMe.

For more information and to support, visit The Kyiv Independent’s website.  

Doctors Without Borders

Working in conflict zones, Doctors Without Borders focuses on helping citizens in need after natural disasters, wars, epidemics and more. Responding to the Ukraine crisis, the organization sent 1,400 cubic feet of medical supply shipments on March 6, along with members of the organization. There are multiple ways to get involved with Doctors Without Borders from working in offices to working in the field, and if a career path isn’t something you’re considering, donating is another great way to show support. 

For more information and to support, visit Doctors Without Borders’ website. 

International Medical Corps

A global first responder organization, International Medical Corps provides emergency medical assistance to people in need in any circumstances. A hub in Poland has been created, so members of the organization can assist members of Ukraine and surrounding countries with physical and mental health situations. International Medical Corps is looking for donations to continue its efforts in Poland. 

For more information and to support, visit International Medical Corps’ website. 

Contact Government Representatives 

Don’t have the money to donate? Another way to get involved if you are in the United States or Europe is by contacting government representatives in efforts to accept as many Ukrainian refugees as possible. Boundless offers great tips for formatting emails, finding your elected officials and learning information about what your contribution will do for citizens in need. 

To find your representative, visit the U.S. House of Representatives’ website. 

Global Giving

Global Giving is a nonprofit that connects other nonprofits with donors and companies. Helping to properly equip humanitarian projects in distressed communities and donating to the Ukraine Crisis Fund creates a direct impact on citizens in need. With a goal of $10,000,000, Global Giving has promised that all funds raised will go to providing shelter, food, clean water, health support, psychosocial support and more. 

For more information and to support, visit Global Giving’s website.

The World Food Programme 

As the world's largest humanitarian organization, The World Food Programme works to provide meals to all people in emergency situations. Working directly with citizens in Ukraine who have been forced from their homes and into hunger, donating to The World Food Programme will provide families with meal packages and more.

For more information and to support, visit The World Food Programme’s website.

UNICEF

UNICEF is running an emergency response for Eastern Ukraine, leading health, social policy, child protection and many more programs to aid families affected by the conflict. UNICEF is looking for volunteers, donors, social media support and reporters to help with the efforts in Ukraine

For more information and to support, visit UNICEF’s website. 

United Help Ukraine

An organization started directly in response to the attack on Ukraine, United Help is focusing on wounded warriors, humanitarian aid, medical supplies and raising awareness. Donating to United Help Ukraine will directly help Ukrainian citizens, soldiers and frontline volunteers. 

For more information and to support, visit United Help Ukraine’s website.

Airbnb

Offering free short-term housing for over 100,000 Ukrainian refugees, Airbnb is relying on the help of citizens across the world. Airbnb is looking for donations and possible hosts to house refugees. Nonprofits are working with Airbnb during this time to book homes for eligible citizens. 

For more information and to support, visit Airbnb’s Help Ukraine website. 

Knowing what organizations have the best intentions and support for people in need can be difficult. The American Endowment Foundation provides a great resource for choosing the right organizations where your support will make the biggest difference.


Haleigh Kierman

Haleigh is a student at The University of Massachusetts, Amherst. A double Journalism and Communications major with a minor in Anthropology, she is initially from Guam, but lived in a small, rural town outside of Boston most of her life. Travel and social action journalism are her two passions and she is appreciative to live in a time where writers voices are more important than ever.

The Cultural Renaissance of the Sámi

The Sámi have resided in Northern Scandinavia long before the borders of existing countries were drawn. Despite pressure to assimilate to Norwegian culture, traditional Sámi culture remains strong.

More than 4,000 miles north of the equator in Finnmark county, Norway live roughly 40,000 descendents of the Sámi, a nomadic people from thousands of years ago in Northern Scandinavia. The Sámi live in parts of Norway, Finland, Sweden and Russia. Of the 80,000 total population of Sámi, roughly half live in Finnmark, Norway. 

The Sámi have their own language with five dialects currently used in Northern Norway. Of the dialects spoken, Northern Sámi, Lule Sámi and Southern Sámi are the most common. Each dialect is completely unique and does not resemble each other nor other Scandinavian languages. In the 1990s, the Norwegian government made speaking Sámi illegal in efforts to force assimilation of the Sámi people, resulting in many Sámi today being unable to speak the language. The Norwegian government has officially apologized for the past legislation, but the damage is still evident as less than half of Sámi people in Norway speak a Sámi dialect. In recent years the Sámi language has had an increasing role in new media and broadcasting, signaling efforts to keep the language alive.

A pillar of Sámi culture is reindeer herding, which played a major part in the Sámi economy for hundreds of years. Starting in the 16th or 17th century, the Sámi transitioned from hunting reindeer to becoming nomadic herders. Reindeers are used for more than just cooking — the Sámi make clothes and shoes from the skin, and the horns can be used to make traditional art. Today, Sámi herding is less nomadic; most families stay in permanent homes while the herder will travel with the reindeer.

Despite previous attempts from governments to assimilate Sámi people, their culture and traditions have remained present in modern life. Notably, Sámi Joik has had a cultural renaissance in recent years. Joik is a traditional form of music that has been passed down orally for generations. The music, performed acapella, is storied to have been taught to the Sámi by fairies and elves. Joik is very personal in nature, as the music is typically dedicated to a specific person, place or animal. Joik is a central part to Sámi culture, and many young Sámi people have begun to incorporate the traditional music into different genres of music. 

New artists are revitalizing Joik after intense pressure from the Norwegian government in the 20th century caused some areas to lose the tradition.  Norwegian music group KEiiNO entered the 2019 Eurovision Song contest with music that included pop, electronic and Joik, and took 6th in the competition, winning the popular vote by viewers. Joik has made a recent impact in Hollywood as well, inspiring “Vuelie,” the opening track of Disney’s Frozen.

Joik is not the only part of Sámi culture that has continued in contemporary forms. The Sámi Center for Contemporary Art was established in 1986 and features contemporary Sámi art. The gallery blends traditional art pieces with modern art forms of expression. Despite past pressure and action from governments, the Sámi continue to keep important aspects of their culture alive. These efforts were continued with the establishment of the Norwegian Sámi Parliament in 1989. The Sámi Parliament is made of 39 elected representatives and oversees matters that deal directly with the Sámi. The parliament is a political party for the Sámi people that promotes Sámi interests. Traditional Sami culture remains an integral part of daily life for the Sami to this day, and illustrates how the rich history of the Sami is being brought into the modern day.


Dana Flynn

Dana is a recent graduate from Tufts University with a degree in English. While at Tufts she enjoyed working on a campus literary magazine and reading as much as possible. Originally from the Pacific Northwest, she loves to explore and learn new things.

Abuse in France’s Catholic Church: Report Finds Victims Number More Than 200,000

An independent commission found that for the last 70 years, hundreds of thousands of children were abused by clergy in France, and the church was ill-equipped to respond to and prevent abuse.

“Notre Dame, Paris.” Gary Campbell-Hall. CC BY 2.0

The Independent Commission on Abuse in the Church (CIASE) was published after an extensive three-year investigation. The report found that over 200,000 minors were abused by clergy members of the Catholic Church in France alone from 1950 to the present day. Furthermore, the commission estimated that, including laypersons who were employed by the church, such as staff in Catholic schools, the number of victims rose to 330,000 over the years. 

The report also found that while family or friends in France perpetrated the highest rate of sexual violence against minors, the Catholic Church is the second environment with the highest prevalence of sexual violence. The report estimates that the number of perpetrators ranges from 2900 to 3200. While this number may seem low for the number of victims, the commission notes that “scientific research shows that a sexual predator can effectively assault a great number of victims, especially predators of male children- as is overwhelming the case in the Catholic Church.” The Vatican released a statement that the Pope learned of the report’s staggering findings with “sorrow.” Pope Francis stated, “I would like to express to the victims my sadness… my sorrow for the trauma that they have suffered. And also my shame” in response to the report’s findings.

The report found that the Catholic Church did little to prevent the abuse over the last 70 years, stating, “The Catholic Church’s attitude has evolved over time but it has remained too focused on the protection of the institution, for a long time with no regard to the victims.” Furthermore, the commission found that from 1950 to 1970, the church was focused on avoiding scandal and often saved aggressors by silencing victims. The report found that while the institution did not accept the violence, it was too focused on preserving the institution and did not know how to prevent or address the abuse. The commission urges the Church to not just move on from past abuse, stating: “ It is not enough for the Church to claim awareness, albeit too late in the day.” CIASE also said that the church needed to recognize the abuse, and take responsibility and begin a process of compensation.

The report also addresses canon law, finding that victims have “no place” in the law that was unprepared to deal with sexual violence. The report also cited deviations in catholicism where priests are almost elevated to saint status. The over-emphasization of obedience and purity could lead to environments that perpetuate sexual violence.

The CIASE report is not the first of its kind, but change within the Church seems to be slow. The head of the inquiry, Jean-Marc Sauvé, told reporters that until the 2000s’ the church had shown “deep, total and even cruel indifference" towards the victims of sexual abuse.


Dana Flynn

Dana is a recent graduate from Tufts University with a degree in English. While at Tufts she enjoyed working on a campus literary magazine and reading as much as possible. Originally from the Pacific Northwest, she loves to explore and learn new things.

Congo Couture: “Sapeurs” Bring Europe’s Designer Fashion to Central Africa

The Republic of the Congo’s world-famous fashionistas strut through the streets of Brazzaville wearing outfits from Europe’s most revered designers. But to sapeurs, their fashion savvy is not just style but a lifestyle. 

A sapeur in his Sunday best. ilja smets. CC BY-ND 2.0.

Maxime Pivot makes all the ladies scream. Men call him the pride of the town. Children follow him wherever he goes. The Republic of the Congo has never seen a more dashing, debonair, sharp-dressing gentleman. As a modern-day dandy in the streets of Brazzaville, he is a painterly splash of Congo couture amid near-universal penury. He boasts a double-breasted red suit, a pearl-white shirt, pitch-black sunglasses and a pink bowtie, an outfit to amaze the prim and plebeian alike. Rather than envy, his panache inspires pride. Some may call his focus on fashion amid staggering poverty vain, but really, he is preserving a decades-long tradition. He is a sapeur

That means that he is a member of the Société des Ambianceurs et des Personnes Élégantes—La Sape for short. In English, it translates to the Society of Ambiance-Makers and Elegant People. Every weekend, he and his fellow dandies meet to compare outfits from the hottest European designers, trade notes on color combinations and revel in the pomp of haute couture. They smoke, they dance and they conversate. They escape the squalor in which so many Congolese live—when sapeurs dress up, they feel like the richest men in the world.

No, they are not rich. Quite the opposite. By day, sapeurs are chefs, mechanics, electricians, craftsmen, businessmen, handymen, journeymen, or any other kind of blue-collar worker. 70 percent of people in the Republic of the Congo live in poverty, and most sapeurs are included in that number. What distinguishes them is not wealth but aesthetic distinction, good taste, and a deep knowledge of the latest fashion trends. They aspire to look like a million bucks, not spend it. 

The street is a catwalk. Jean-Luc Dalembert. CC BY-SA 4.0.

The tradition began during the Congo’s colonial period. Congolese servants, tired of wearing their Belgian and French colonizers’ secondhand clothes, began saving their wages and purchasing the latest clothes for European dandies.  After serving in the French army during World War II, Congolese soldiers returned home bringing closets-worth of European suits, shirts, ties, shoes and accessories. By the time the central African nation gained independence in 1960, many Congolese elites were making pilgrimages to Paris to rack up designer clothes for their wardrobes back home. Although they were accused of relying on white, “Western” traditions, most sapeurs insist on their artistic independence. As Papa Wemba, one of La Sape’s earliest celebrities, said, “White people invented the clothes, but we make an art of it.”

 
 

However, investing in clothes instead of, say, property or livestock can be difficult to justify in one of the poorest parts of the world. Many sapeurs hide their expensive lifestyles from relatives to avoid endangering family ties. If a cousin learns that their family member would rather buy an Armani suit or Weston shoes than help put food on the table, they may feel betrayed and break off relations. Furthermore, the wives of sapeurs tend to bear the brunt of the sapeur lifestyle far more heavily than their husbands, as they suffer the financial cost without being able to revel in high fashion. 

European style, African art. Opencooper. CC BY-SA 4.0.

La Sape is overwhelmingly male. Overwhelmingly, but not entirely. As the tradition evolves, more women are staking their claim as sapeuses. They, too, don designer suits from Versace, Dior and Yves Saint Laurent and develop mannerisms and gaits to build a persona around their clothes. Even children are beginning to partake in the sapeur culture. Many worry that Congolese tailors lack apprentices to carry on the tradition, so the sight of a child strutting down the streets of Brazzaville in an Armani suit assures them that the legacy of La Sape will continue. 

In fact, Maxime Pivot established an organization, Sapeurs in Danger, to preserve the tradition of La Sape, which he asserts is not just about fashion but also is a way of life. When committing to the lifestyle, sapeurs adopt a code of conduct which Ben Mouchaka, another famous sapeur, summed up in 2000. He calls it the Ten Commandments of Sapeology

1- Thou shalt practise La Sape on Earth with humans and in heaven with God thy creator.

2- Thou shalt bring to heel ngayas (non-connoisseurs), nbéndés (the ignorant), and tindongos (badmouthers) on land, under the earth, at sea and in the skies.

3- Thou shalt honour Sapeology wherever thou goest.

4- The ways of Sapeology are impenetrable for any Sapeologist who does not know the rule of 3: a trilogy of finished and unfinished colours.

5- Thou shalt not give in.

6- Thou shalt demonstrate stringent standards of hygiene in thy body and clothes.

7- Thou shalt not be tribalistic, nationalist, racist or discriminatory.

8- Thou shalt not be violent or insolent.

9- Thou shalt abide by the Sapelogists’ rules of civility and respect thy elders.

10- Through prayer and these 10 commandments, thou, as a Sapeologist, shall conquer the Sapeophobes.

Maxime Pivot aims to pass down the tradition of La Sape to any man, woman, or child willing to devote themselves to the lifestyle. He operates a school of La Sape where he teaches aspiring sapeurs how to combine colors tastefully and craft a swaggering gait. His classes teach that La Sape needn’t sap their wallets. As the sapeur life and style spread, he hopes that dandies will don local brands, not just expensive European ones.

Innovating a classic style. Makangarajustin. CC BY-SA 4.0.

Then, La Sape could be truly independent from European designers. Fashion trends have been increasingly moving in that direction, thanks to Maxime Pivot’s efforts, especially now that La Sape has moved into the mainstream. Every August 15, the Republic of the Congo’s independence day, sapeurs march alongside the military, indigenous tribes and even the President in the largest parade of the year. Their flashy clothes and sauntering stride draw cheers from the crowd. Their tradition provides an example of how the country can emerge from an oppressive European past and spring into a liberated African future.


Michael McCarthy

Michael is an undergraduate student at Haverford College, dodging the pandemic by taking a gap year. He writes in a variety of genres, and his time in high school debate renders political writing an inevitable fascination. Writing at Catalyst and the Bi-Co News, a student-run newspaper, provides an outlet for this passion. In the future, he intends to keep writing in mediums both informative and creative.

LGBTQ+ Activists Fight Anti-Gay Hate in Siberia

In the Siberian tundra, queer folks face conservative attitudes, constant harassment and violence. As a result, the region’s few LGBTQ+ activists struggle to meet their community’s needs. 

A small show of support in Siberia. reassure. CC BY-NC-SA 2.0.

To this day, Yevgeniy Glebov doesn’t know how the two strangers found his address. Secure in his apartment, he heard a knock at the door. He opened it. They asked, “Aren’t you that gay activist?”

Yevgeniy needed to go to the hospital to recover from his injuries. After he reported the assault, the police closed the case without looking for a suspect. He expected little else from the authorities in Irkutsk Oblast, the Russian federal subject deep in Siberia where he lives and works. His NGO “Time to Act” provides legal, psychological and HIV prevention resources for the region’s LGBTQ+ community. However, this work  also puts a target on his back. Advocating for gay rights is mostly a thankless job, demanding secrecy. For most LGBTQ+ Russians, it’s safer inside the closet than out. 

Gay pride hasn’t yet reached the mainstream in Russia. Homophobia runs rampant in Russian society and riddles the country’s laws. Article 148 of the Russian criminal code gives prosecutors the license to claim any violation of religious practice as a crime, giving them a cudgel against gay rights groups. In 2013, Prime Minister Vladimir Putin signed into the law a ban on “propaganda of nontraditional sexual relations” designed to prevent children from viewing or learning about anything homosexual. These laws reflect widespread disdain and discrimination against queer folks. The bill passed the State Duma with unanimous support. 

Anti-homophobia demonstration in Russia. Marco Fieber. CC BY-NC-ND 2.0.

Homophobia is less rampant in the cultural capitals of Moscow and St. Petersburg. There, gay clubs, beaches and bookstores thrive because of a highly concentAnti-homophobia demonstration in Russia. Marco Fieber. CC BY-NC-ND 2.0.rated LGBTQ+ community. On the other hand, in Siberia, the presence of gay life diminishes as the threat of hate-fueled violence increases. Gay men have been lured to online dates in remote locations only to find a violent gang of homophobes when they arrive. Police have been known to abuse queer people as well. Yevgeniy once drove to nearby Angarsk after a supposedly gay boy had been brutalized by two strangers. When he arrived, the police had arrested the boy to accost him about his sexuality, letting the attackers go. 

This environment demands a different approach to LGBTQ+ activism than in Russia’s European part. There, activists like Nikolay Alexeyev vociferously demand their rights. Alexeyev organized the first Moscow Pride parade in 2006, which then mayor of Moscow Yuri Luzhkov deemed “satanic.” The participants in the small parade faced arrests from the police and attacks from Neo-Nazis, but the subsequent, yearly demonstrations made Alexeyev the public face of the gay rights movement. He frequently brings his combative style to TV debate shows. On such a show, he grew so frustrated with a fancifully-hatted woman decrying “homosexual extremism” that he called her a “hag in a hat” and left. 

A protest placard mocking Putin. Marco Fieber. CC BY-NC-ND 2.0.

Alexeyev often makes life difficult for gay activists in far-flung areas of Russia. Yevgeniy claims that the Russians he interacts with on a daily basis aren’t ready for Pride festivals, and that his pugnacity alienates those they need to win over. Irkutsk Oblast is home to 2.5 million people, but only forty LGBT activists, Yevgeniy estimates. His work with Time to Act doesn’t even pay. For money, he works at a local bakery. 

A long road lies ahead for Yevgeniy and his fellow activists. LGBTQ+ folks remain political untouchables across the Russian political spectrum. Even Alexei Navalny, Putin’s most powerful foe, does not touch the issue of gay rights. Amnesty International revoked his status as prisoner of conscience mainly because of his unapologetic xenophobia, but also because of his comments about the LGBTQ+ community. In a recent interview, Navalny repeatedly used a Russian slur to describe gay people. 

In the Soviet era, gay folks, if discovered, were sent to gulags—brutal work camps that relied on the frigid tundra to stop prisoners from escaping. Queer artistic luminaries such as filmmaker Sergey Paradjanov and poet Anna Barkova were enslaved there, leaving a legacy of queer survival. Their spirit invigorates LGBTQ+ activism in Russia; it is sorely needed. Although gulags now sit empty, queer Russians too often find their only safe haven in the closet. 


Michael McCarthy

Michael is an undergraduate student at Haverford College, dodging the pandemic by taking a gap year. He writes in a variety of genres, and his time in high school debate renders political writing an inevitable fascination. Writing at Catalyst and the Bi-Co News, a student-run newspaper, provides an outlet for this passion. In the future, he intends to keep writing in mediums both informative and creative.

Chernobyl Becomes a Symbol of Resilience, 35 Years After Disaster

Time and time again, humans have been ravaged by disaster, only to successfully prove their resilience. Thirty-five years after the Chernobyl nuclear disaster, Ukrainians appear eager to rewrite their story. 

The abandoned streets of Chernobyl, Ukraine. Pedro Moura Pinheiro. CC BY-NC-SA 2.0. 

The Chernobyl nuclear disaster of 1986 marked chaos for the Soviet Union and still influences modern-day Ukraine. The accident was caused by a series of technical faults, resulting in a nuclear explosion that spewed radioactive substances into the air. Chernobyl stands as the most devastating nuclear incident to have ever occurred, with 31 deaths as a direct result of the meltdown, 4,000 cancer deaths from exposure to radiation and millions affected in various other ways. 

President Volodymyr Zelenskyy announced that Chernobyl will now function as a nuclear waste site.

Now, at the 35th anniversary of the Chernobyl disaster, Ukrainians are determined to move forward. Life has slowly begun to return to the area; the “exclusion zone” stands as a prime example of the resilience of nature. What was once a deadly zone, marked as a no man’s land, now abounds with life. Radiation levels in the area have decreased over the years, creating a nature preserve of sorts—elk, deer and other wildlife graze throughout the empty space. 

As frightening as Chernobyl may seem, locals have moved back. Elderly residents have returned to the surrounding area despite being advised against it; for them, the comfort of home outweighs the peril of living in the region. These residents stand as a reminder of the power—and the risks—that follow one’s determination. 

Officials in Ukraine hope that Chernobyl will be added as a World Heritage Site, as many residents believe that the outsize influence of the site merits its inclusion. 

Once wholly abandoned, Chernobyl and the nearby town of Pripyat allow visitors today. Travelers come to the site and find an unconventional experience; the disaster has created a reflective tone, as Chernobyl’s tragic history sheds light on the lows of human struggle and the highs of human triumph. 

On April 26, Ukrainian President Volodymyr Zelenskyy announced that Chernobyl will now function as a nuclear waste site. It is projected that the nuclear waste site will save Ukraine about $200 million per year. 

Zelenskyy also promised to “transform the exclusion zone, as Chernobyl is referred to, into a revival zone.” While it won’t be easy, Ukraine intends to move on from the past and head toward a stronger future.

As time passes, many tragic incidents of history dissolve from the spotlight. With revival on the horizon, Ukraine hopes for a triumph at Chernobyl.


Ella Nguyen

Ella is an undergraduate student at Vassar College pursuing a degree in Hispanic Studies. She wants to assist in the field of immigration law and hopes to utilize Spanish in her future projects. In her free time she enjoys cooking, writing poetry, and learning about cosmetics.

A Look at Germany’s Quirky but Quaint Ore Mountains

Germany’s Ore Mountains offer bucolic scenery and countless Christmas traditions, all wrapped up into one charming package.

Seiffen, Germany. abejorro34. CC BY-NC 2.0. 

Along the German-Czech border lie the Ore Mountains, one of nature’s grand masterpieces. Stretching over 100 miles, the Ore Mountains appear like a scene out of Narnia: long strips of deep woods sit sprinkled among patches of bright wildflowers, often blanketed in thick snow. The area’s splendid scenery presents itself as the ideal inspiration for painters in search of inspiration.

The history of the region is just as fascinating. Up until their expulsion after World War II, German miners worked the mountain range for its many minerals such as copper, silver and lead. Thus, the range gained its name: the Ore Mountains. After World War II, the small towns that peppered the range lost most of their German populations. These towns were later filled by Czech residents who developed uranium and coal mining. Now, the range’s travel industry has brought much attention to the quaint lifestyle found today in these small towns. 

For guests eager for a gorgeous view or photographers looking for the perfect shot, Fichtelberg Mountain stands as one of the Ore Mountains’ top stops. Fichtelberg Mountain is the second-tallest peak of the Ore Mountains; it sits in the middle of the range and stands nearly 4,000 feet tall. The icy conditions found in the winter attract throngs of alpine skiers, bobsledders and other snow sporters. When the weather warms toward summer, the crowds of snow sporters are replaced by hikers and photographers; trails through patches of woods make for calm hiking opportunities, while the peak itself provides a 360-degree view of the surrounding mountain range.

Snow in the Ore Mountains. VicunaR. CC BY-SA 2.0. 

Another destination sure to pique anyone’s interest is the small town of Seiffen, Germany. Seiffen holds only around 3,000 people, but its influence as a stronghold of local culture makes up for it. The town is famous for its role in the toymaking industry, with over 100 craftsmen living in it alone. Seiffen often appears like something out of Christmastime folklore, as it is known for its top-notch toymaking and stellar artisan Christmas decorations. For the woodmakers of this town, their craft is far more than just a profession. It is common that the artisans of Seiffen pass their craft down from generation to generation, making their work not just a form of income, but a lifestyle. 

Although at first glance the Ore Mountains may appear to be just another mountain range, the wide variety of activities and rich history make it a fascinating spot to explore. 



Ella Nguyen

Ella is an undergraduate student at Vassar College pursuing a degree in Hispanic Studies. She wants to assist in the field of immigration law and hopes to utilize Spanish in her future projects. In her free time she enjoys cooking, writing poetry, and learning about cosmetics.

High Schools in Rome Increase Support for Transgender Students

In the Roman Catholic stronghold of Italy, Rome’s high school students have sped up the city’s journey toward acceptance of transgender individuals. 

Transgender flag. User:torbakhopper. CC BY-SA 3.0.

Despite the challenges of the COVID-19 pandemic, the high school community of Rome has been making strides toward the advancement of LGBTQ+ rights. Recently, a handful of high schools in the city have decided to allow transgender students the right to go by their chosen name. This is a stark change from the previous method of using a transgender person’s name given at birth, known as their “dead” name. The high schools that have made this change lag behind the city’s universities, with some colleges already having given transgender students the right. 

Although the act itself seems small, it is a substantial gesture within the context of the transgender community. Upon hearing the news, students have expressed great relief; many see this step as a beacon of hope toward full transgender visibility in Italy. The country’s LGBTQ+ community currently deals with hate crimes, some of which have been so violent that victims have required reconstructive surgery. For Italy, the flaw is in the law; there is a law prohibiting crimes based on religion and race, but none exists for acts based on gender or sexual orientation. The largest change benefiting the transgender community occurred in 1982, when the Sex Reassignment Act legalized that procedure. 

School officials in Rome believe that this change will help to protect students by creating a sense of security and peace in their learning environment. The first students to experience the change in rules hope that they will pave the way for an easier education for future transgender individuals, many of whom face large-scale bullying. 

In a study on LGBTQ+ tolerance conducted by the Williams Institute, Italy fell quite far behind some of its European counterparts. Italy sat at 30th place in the ranking while Iceland and the Netherlands snagged the first two slots. The prevalence of the Roman Catholic Church, which does not condone LGBTQ+ behavior, has much to do with the country’s lower score. 

This step has been a significant one for Italy, but much work remains to be done. With a smoother education now in store, these students hope that they are just the group to bring about further change. 


Ella Nguyen

Ella is an undergraduate student at Vassar College pursuing a degree in Hispanic Studies. She wants to assist in the field of immigration law and hopes to utilize Spanish in her future projects. In her free time she enjoys cooking, writing poetry, and learning about cosmetics.

#MeToo Movement in Greece Resurges After Testimony by Olympic Athlete

Olympic sailing champion Sofia Bekatorou’s speaking out regarding her past experiences with sexual abuse is leading to a revival of Greece’s #MeToo movement.

A view of the Acropolis in Athens, Greece. Christophe Meneboeuf. CC-BY-SA 3.0

Forty-three-year-old Greek sailing champion Sofia Bekatorou rose to international acclaim after winning an Olympic gold medal in the 2004 Athens Olympics and four World Championships in Italy, Slovenia, Hungary and Spain. Recently, however, she is making headlines for speaking out about her past experiences with sexual abuse in the competitive sports arena. Her brave actions sparked a national #MeToo movement with support from politicians, athletes and social media followers across Greece. 

 Bekatorou’s Experience with Sexual Abuse

A boat at sea. Snappygoat.com. CC0

Bekatorou was sexually abused in 1998 when she went abroad for the Olympic qualifiers in Sydney. A member of the Hellenic Sailing Federation raped her when she was 21. According to Bekatorou, “He said he would stop if I wanted him to, but he didn’t stop, no matter what I said. When he finished and got up from on top of me, I left the room ashamed and in tears.” Her case remained silenced for 20 years as she began to succeed in the sport. As Bekatorou resisted her abuser’s advances, she received pushback from the sailing federation, making it more difficult to excel. She stated that, “The more successful I became, the more they fought me. While I didn’t have such great success, no one was afraid I would acquire much of a voice.”

Greek athlete Sofia Bekatorou. Mihrou. Wikimedia Commons. CC BY-SA 4.0

Bekatorou’s Testimony and Aftermath

Bekatorou had the opportunity to raise her voice when the government asked athletes to comment on a proposed sports reform bill in 2019. In November of that year, she denounced her rape publicly for the first time. Although Bekatorou did not expect to reach a large audience since she spoke at a small online conference, the sailing federation began responding with allegations the next day. Her testimony resulted in a wave of support from fans with #metisofia (on Sofia’s side) and #MeToo trending on social media. In addition to her testimony, Bekatorou sent a letter to World Sailing signed by fellow Olympians and coaches calling out a “wretched situation” and demanding fair elections to overhaul the existing board of the organization. 

In addition to support from her fans, Bekatorou has also received the backing of Greek politicians, including Prime Minister Kyriakos Mitsotakis and female President Katerina Sakellaropoulou, who stated that Bekatorou’s actions “dissolved a conspiracy of silence” in Greece, where sexual assault cases are notoriously underreported. 

A Greek parliamentary session. Pasok. Wikimedia Commons. CC BY-SA 2.0

Groundbreaking Changes in Greek Sports and Politics

Since her testimony, Vice President Aristeidis Adamopoulos of the Hellenic Sailing Federation, her alleged abuser, has resigned from his position. He refuses to acknowledge any instance of abuse, stating that his only reason for resigning is to spare the federation any negative publicity. Greece has also banned about half of the country’s 10,000 sports clubs from voting in upcoming sports federation elections due to concerns regarding “sexual and financial misconduct.” Although Bekatorou’s case has passed the 20-year statute of limitations period, politicians are considering an extension of it. There are rising movements to increase prison sentences for sex offenders and to address sexual abuse cases more frequently, but the long-term effects of the #MeToo movement’s surge are not yet known. 

Women from across Greece are beginning to come forward regarding their harrowing experiences with sexual abuse. These women include sailing champion Marina Psychogyiou, water polo player Mania Bikof, world champion swimmer Rabea Iatridou and Cypriot Olympic shooter Andri Eleftheriou. Additionally, widespread sexual abuse cases at the Aristotle University of Thessaloniki in northern Greece are making headlines, with over 100 complaints filed about a single professor in the last 30 years. Although Greece is making strides toward gender equality with legislation passed in 2010, the country is far behind other European Union members in this regard. 

Sofia Bekatorou’s heroism serves as an inspiration to sexual abuse survivors and women around the world. Only time will tell whether her actions lead to social change in Greece and beyond. 



Megan Gürer

Megan is a Turkish-American student at Wellesley College in Massachusetts studying Biological Sciences. Passionate about environmental issues and learning about other cultures, she dreams of exploring the globe. In her free time, she enjoys cooking, singing, and composing music.

Nonprofits Reach Syrian Refugee Children Through Education

As the Syrian refugee crisis enters its 10th year, children continue to suffer from mass displacement and a lack of educational opportunities. 

Syrian primary schoolchildren. DFID. CC2.0

The Syrian refugee crisis is considered by many to be the most urgent humanitarian crisis of the decade. Since 2011, the conflict has displaced 11 million people through the destruction of countless homes, hospitals, schools and public buildings. An equally large number of Syrians require humanitarian assistance, over half of them being children. Many of these young children lack safe spaces to play, face childhood neglect and have witnessed horrific violence in their lives. Numerous children are at risk of developing toxic stress, which is a biological response that impedes growth and development when humans have experienced too much hardship. 

However, with hardship also comes hope. Reaching children early and providing educational opportunities have been shown to alleviate toxic stress, allowing children to live productive and happy lives. However, educational resources for Syrian refugee children remain in short supply. Despite its importance in providing children a brighter and more stable future, education efforts only receive 3% of humanitarian aid annually. Additionally, many humanitarian organizations do not provide adequate educational resources for children to increase school enrollment. 

Students in Syria start to drop out at the age of 12, when they are in secondary school. A study conducted on Syrian refugee children in Jordan showed that only 25% of students are enrolled in secondary school, citing a lack of safe transportation, limited educational resources available, poverty and limited professional opportunities as contributing factors. Children who drop out of school are at increased risk of experiencing hardship in their lives, including living in poverty, being subjected to child marriage and facing sexual violence. Adequate educational resources and child support are essential to help provide resilience and much-needed support for Syrian refugee children. Some nonprofit organizations are aiming to do just that.

Making a Difference in Syrian Refugee Children’s Lives

Syrian refugee children at a school in Lebanon. DFID. CC2.0

A new educational program developed by the International Rescue Committee (IRC) and Sesame Workshop aims to provide adequate educational resources for Syrian refugee children. Called Ahlan Simsim, which translates to “Welcome Sesame” in Arabic, the program aims to combine the IRC’s experience working in conflict zones with the TV show “Sesame Street,” which is known for its educational and nurturing effects on children. Program resources include safe spaces for young children to play, an Arabic-language version of ”Sesame Street,” parenting resources for caregivers, and partnerships with nonprofits and local governments to ensure child access to education. In light of COVID-19, educational programming takes place through WhatsApp and online video. 

Ahlan Simsim provides children with skills in literacy and numeracy while helping them develop emotional resilience. For example, the program will teach students how to deal with difficult situations, understand their feelings and empathize with others. The program is a winner of the MacArthur Foundation’s 100&Change grant competition and is among the most ambitious early childhood development programs ever attempted by the humanitarian system. According to Sherrie Westin, executive vice president for global impact and philanthropy at Sesame Workshop, “The issue we are addressing is the greatest humanitarian crisis of our time. We know we can make a difference in the long term if we reach children early. Without that, there’s an entire generation at risk, and that has repercussions not just for their future, but for a more peaceful, stable world for all children.”

To Get Involved: 

Check out this link to the International Rescue Committee’s webpage to learn more about the Ahlan Simsim initiative.


Megan Gürer

is a Turkish-American student at Wellesley College in Massachusetts studying Biological Sciences. Passionate about environmental issues and learning about other cultures, she dreams of exploring the globe. In her free time, she enjoys cooking, singing, and composing music.