Vietnamese Bird Cafes Build Community

At first glance, Vietnam’s bird culture may seem to be a minor hobby of pet owners. However, it has weaved itself into the fabric of residents’ lives.

A bird cafe in Hanoi, the nation’s capital. Daniel Mennerich. CC BY-NC-ND 2.0.

Follow the endless oil trails left behind by Vietnam’s millions of motorbikes and visitors can easily end up at one of the nation’s bird cafes. These unique spots serve as casual meeting places for locals; while socializing, their pet birds can mingle with each other. As seen in Netflix’s travel show “Somebody Feed Phil,” bird cafes are bustling centers for enthusiasts to show off their prized pets while catching up with others. 

While most members of bird cafe culture are middle-aged to elderly men, many of whom are breeders, locals of all ages can be seen enjoying these avian singers. Participation in bird culture is ritualistic for many; members flood the cafes every morning, clanging their cages as they hook them on the metal hangers. Many participants own a variety of birds, often displaying well over 20  each day. 

Locals are drawn to these cafes because of the peaceful environment created by the birds’ melodic songs. While owners order their morning meals and catch up with friends, the birds are equally busy. Often, the birds sing to each other, and owners are able to go home hearing a new song from their beloved pets. Three times a year, visitors can expect to see bird competitions in which owners bring their most magnificent birds to be publicly judged. Competitions take place in the spring, winter and during Tet, the Vietnamese New Year. The birds must size up in four categories: duration of singing, quality of song, beauty and shape. Lucky owners of the winning birds are awarded prize money and praise. 

Although the birds seem to be crowded in wooden cages, owners often describe the meticulous care they have toward their pets. The birds are given high-quality feed and are regularly bathed. Wooden cages exhibit intricate carvings, worthy of their exceptionally beautiful dwellers.

Even casual observers can see the many social benefits of Vietnam’s cherished bird culture. Regular meetings at bird cafes provide a sense of regularity to social interactions, and the tranquil environment created by the birds builds a connection between locals and nature. Bird cafes are stress-relieving havens for viewers and participants alike, as well as “fountains of youth” for the elderly. 

Beyond being a staple of Vietnamese communities, bird cafes give visitors an opportunity to closely examine a fascinating aspect of the country’s culture. Any foreigner eager to explore Vietnam should definitely take up this offer to observe the birds’ unmatched splendor in such a unique environment.

Ella Nguyen

is an undergraduate student at Vassar College pursuing a degree in Hispanic Studies. She wants to assist in the field of immigration law and hopes to utilize Spanish in her future projects. In her free time she enjoys cooking, writing poetry, and learning about cosmetics.

10 Mouthwatering Rice Dishes from Around the World

The world is filled with a variety of rice dishes. 

Rice grains. Verch. CC2.0

No matter where you are in the world, rice is a much loved staple. First cultivated in China and spread through international trade and migration, every region has its own way of preparing rice with local spices and ingredients. Here is a sample of 10 unique and culturally significant rice dishes from around the world. 

Morasa polo with tahdig. Moos. CC2.0

1. Morasa polo (jeweled rice): Iran

Morasa polo (jeweled rice in Farsi) is one of Iran’s most festive dishes, traditionally served at celebrations and weddings to bring “sweetness” to a married couple. The rice is topped with various types of fruits and nuts, each representing a desired jewel. For example, barberries represent rubies and pistachios represent emeralds. Each component of the rice is cooked separately in sugar to give the dish a little sweetness. No plate of rice in Iran is complete without tahdig (literally “bottom of the pot”), referring to the crispy layer of rice at the bottom of the pan. One of the most coveted and challenging techniques to master in Persian cuisine, tahdig can be made several ways by using ghee, saffron, potatoes and lavash bread to give that desired crunch. 

Nasi tumpeng. Kenwrick. CC2.0

2. Nasi tumpeng: Indonesia

Nasi tumpeng is a traditional rice dish served at a selamatan, a traditional ceremony for special occasions such as birthdays and weddings. The dish consists of a tall rice cone in the center, usually yellow rice, which represents the mountains and volcanoes of Indonesia’s landscapes. According to tradition, the yellow mountain of rice refers to Mount Semeru, home of the hyang, the spirits of Indonesian ancestors and the Hindu gods. The dish is accompanied by seven side dishes with a balance of chicken, seafood, eggs and vegetables that represent the helping hands of God. Nowadays, the dish has been ingrained in Indonesia’s Muslim culture representing gratitude toward God. 

Jollof rice. Secretlondon123. CC2.0

3. Jollof rice: West Africa

Widely enjoyed across Africa, there is perhaps no dish that has sparked such heated discussion over its origins as jollof. A staple in social gatherings and weddings across West Africa, the rice is cooked with tomatoes, onions and peppers with additional seasonings depending on the region. Historians credit the origin of jollof rice to the Senegambia region, with cultural exchange then spreading it across the rest of West Africa. However, Nigerians, Ghanaians and Senegalese all claim the origins of this dish and are eager to debate which version is better with online battles (#JollofWars) and cook-offs. The dish is also popular among the African diaspora in the American South. In fact, popular dishes such as jambalaya and gumbo are believed to have their origins in jollof rice.  

Hamsili pilav. Vardar. CC2.0

4. Hamsili pilav: Turkey 

Although there are many types of pilaf in Turkey and the Middle East, hamsili pilav is one of the most unique and visually striking versions, with layers of fish covering up rice. Hamsi, also known as European anchovies, are considered Turkey’s national fish and play a crucial role in the culture and cuisine of the Black Sea region. Many poems and songs have been written about hamsi and the small but mighty fish is used in a variety of dishes, from breads to pickles and even jam. Known to be a favorite of the sultans during the Ottoman Empire, hamsili pilav is still a favorite in Turkish homes, especially among the Laz people living in the northeastern regions of the country. 

Khichdi. Tushar. Wikimedia Commons. CC4.0

5. Khichdi: Indian Subcontinent

This humble but delicious dish is heavily ingrained in South Asian food culture. Most commonly made with rice and moong dal (a type of legume), it is one of the first foods that babies eat in Hindu culture. Easily digestible and nutritious, khichdi is popular across South Asia, including in India, Pakistan, Nepal and Bangladesh. Many regional variations of khichdi exist, adding available ingredients such as vegetables, spices, dried fruits and coconut. The Bengali variation, known as khichuri, is a rather elaborate version, served with an array of vegetable dishes, fried fish and curries. 

Maqluba. Homan. CC2.0.

6. Maqluba: Palestine 

Often considered Palestine’s national dish, maqluba is enjoyed at least once a week by many Palestinian families. Meaning “upside down” in Arabic, the dish is cooked in one pot with layers of meat (chicken or lamb), vegetables (most commonly potato and eggplant) and rice. Once the dish is cooked, it is flipped over onto a plate and served. 

Cooking traditional foods allows Palestinians to cherish their culture while empowering themselves and their families. The Noor Women’s Empowerment Group is run by 13 Palestinian women working to overcome social stigmas faced by women and disabled children in Aida refugee camp. The organization holds traditional Palestinian cooking classes as a way to generate income to support their families and give visitors an insight into Palestinian life and culture. The organization has garnered international attention and received a visit by celebrity chef Anthony Bourdain in 2013. 

Arroz con pollo. Sea turtle. CC2.0

7. Arroz con pollo: Latin America and Spain

Translating as “rice with chicken,” this incredibly versatile rice dish is enjoyed across Latin America and Spain. The dish is thought to be connected to the Spanish paella and could have its origins from Arab influence in Spain as early as the 8th century. However, there is some debate as to whether the dish actually originated in Puerto Rico, as it is one of the island’s classic dishes. Arroz con pollo is seared chicken cooked with rice and vegetables, although seasonings vary from country to country across Latin America. For example, Mexican versions use chile, Colombian versions use a sofrito (blend of flavors including tomato and saffron) and Peruvian versions include cilantro and dark beer. 

Ozoni. David Z. CC2.0

8. Ozoni: Japan 

Ozoni (also spelled as zoni) is a soup that is eaten on the morning of New Year’s Day in Japan. The soup contains mochi cakes, either round or square-shaped, a clear dashi broth (made of dried kelp and bonito flakes) and other ingredients depending on the region. In areas closer to the water, seafood is added to the broth while more vegetables are used in inland areas. All ingredients have a special meaning that guarantees luck for the upcoming year. As mochi is stretchable, it represents longevity. Local produce is added for a bountiful harvest in the new year. 

Wild rice. Emily. CC2.0. 

9. Wild rice: North America

Considered to actually be an “aquatic grass seed,” wild rice has a higher nutritional value than regular rice. Wild rice is a staple of the Ojibwe people of southern Canada and the United States’ northern Midwest. The month of September was called “ricing moon”, when the Ojibwe left their homes to begin the weeklong process of harvesting the rice. Wild rice was a popular commodity at trading posts and was used to feed canoers transporting fur to and from the posts. The Ojibwe people would wait near rice fields to hunt birds, as ducks and geese use wild rice as a food source. 

Rice and beans. The Marmot. CC2.0

10. Rice and beans: widely consumed across Latin America and Africa

Rice and beans is a staple in many Latin American and African countries and has become a pivotal part of their cuisines. Nutritious and filling, rice and beans have been a pairing in Latin America for thousands of years, known as the “matrimonio” or marriage in Central America. The types of beans and the preparation of the dish varies from country to country. For example, pinto beans are common in Mexico, fava beans are popular in Peru and black beans are a staple in Brazil and Cuba. Kidney beans and black-eyed peas are widely enjoyed across West Africa and the rest of the continent as well as in the American South. In Jamaica and other parts of the Caribbean, rice and pigeon or field peas are quite popular, while the rice is cooked in coconut milk. 

From Iran to North America, the preparation of rice differs vastly. Despite many differences, food is something that brings the world together and fosters an appreciation of Earth’s incredible cultural diversity.

Megan Gürer

Megan is a Turkish-American student at Wellesley College in Massachusetts studying Biological Sciences. Passionate about environmental issues and learning about other cultures, she dreams of exploring the globe. In her free time, she enjoys cooking, singing, and composing music.

In China’s Anti-Poverty Fight, Minorities Worry About Ethnic Targeting

China has begun ambitious plans to end extreme poverty in the country by the end of 2020. Although well-intentioned at first glance, the campaign’s integrity has been called into question.

Southwest China. wnstnsmth. CC BY-NC-SA 2.0.

Aiming to end extreme poverty by 2021, the Chinese Communist Party’s 100th anniversary, President Xi Jinping has launched mass relocations of entire villages in rural southwest China. Over 6,600 members of the Yi ethnic minority group have already been uprooted to custom-built towns commissioned by China’s government. 

According to Sichuan province’s party secretary Peng Qinghua, about 80 billion yuan, equivalent to $12 billion, has already been spent to relocate 1.4 million residents. The freshly built towns consist of almost 400,000 homes and approximately 70,000 miles of roads. 

These mass relocations seem to contradict Jinping’s original strategy of “Targeted Poverty Alleviation” that he announced in 2013, which in theory would focus on helping individual families through an organized registration system. Now the Communist Party has changed its plan, announcing that ending extreme poverty is  impossible without targeting entire communities. 

Since millions of rural residents have already been uprooted, many are concerned that the Chinese Communist Party may have a hidden agenda. Specifically, residents fear that mass relocations are intended to force out minority groups to consolidate power among the Han population, China’s predominant ethnic group. The move has come with lifestyle changes for residents, many of whom have received  jobs such as babysitting and plantation labor in China’s metropolitan areas. There exists a generational disagreement among residents as well. Older residents have expressed dissatisfaction with such sudden shifts in land ownership and daily routines, while the younger generation seems somewhat more open to the changes. 

Part of the government’s funding has focused on upholding the Yi language of Nuosu with support for TV shows, local newspapers and bilingual programs. 

This action by the government toward the Yi minority contradicts its previous statements made in favor of entirely erasing minority languages. For instance, the government judged that the language of the Uyghurs is “out of step” and should be replaced with Mandarin. 

The government keeps no secret that its poverty reduction initiative intends to promote fundamental social change. Lin Shucheng, party boss for the rural Liangshan prefecture, states that mass relocations are aimed at dissolving what he calls “outdated habits,” such as poor personal hygiene and immoderate dowries. 

Although the campaign has been successful at eliminating extreme poverty, the government’s authoritarian measures and contradictory mandates keep residents wary of the future. 

Ella Nguyen

is an undergraduate student at Vassar College pursuing a degree in Hispanic Studies. She wants to assist in the field of immigration law and hopes to utilize Spanish in her future projects. In her free time she enjoys cooking, writing poetry, and learning about cosmetics.

Brazil’s Favelas Rely on Drug Gangs for Protection Against COVID-19

Michael McCarthy

Favela residents are innovating and banding together to survive. Since the government won’t help them, locals have no other choice but to turn to drug traffickers.

A mother and child in a Brazilian favela. Midianinja. CC BY-NC-SA 2.0

In the favelas of Rio de Janeiro, masks and hand sanitizer come not from hospitals or the government but from the local drug dealer. Organized drug traffickers have switched from producing hard drugs to medical supplies to prevent the spread of COVID-19. With deep ties in tightly packed neighborhoods, gangs have enforced pandemic guidelines in the absence of President Jair Bolsonaro’s government, which has downplayed the virus’s threat. In fact, favela residents have organized in myriad ways to combat the coronavirus in ways that demonstrate the closely knit communities in these areas.

Gangs experienced a rise in members as the economic fallout of the pandemic worsened. As residents lost jobs, they were forced to find alternative ways to provide for themselves and their families. Concurrently, more and more residents depended on gangs to enforce curfews in their neighborhoods since the government refused to impose one.

Two armed men in a favela. El_Enigma. CC BY-NC 2.0

Jair Bolsonaro is largely considered to have failed to address the medical, economic and political devastation brought about by the COVID-19 pandemic. In a national address, he said, “Given my athletic history, if I was to get the virus, it wouldn’t necessarily concern me.” In fact, he did test positive for the virus and seemed unconcerned about viral transmission when he removed his mask during a press conference. Bolsonaro has mostly dismissed the severity of the pandemic and opposes any and all lockdowns. At 142,161 deaths as of Sept. 28, Brazil has the second-highest number of COVID-19 deaths in the world, trailing only the United States.

Favelas are prime targets for a virus. They are tightly packed urban areas with typically poor sanitation and little access to medical facilities. The precise number of cases, however, is difficult to ascertain. Favelas lack the testing regimen of rich areas, so tracking the virus’s spread is hard to do accurately. Brazil’s first outbreaks were found to have originated in wealthy areas due to residents returning from vacations in Italy at the height of the surge there. As a result, the pandemic has deepened the already exorbitant class divide between primarily Black favela residents and White, wealthier “gringos.”

Favelas will likely become even more crowded in the near future. The COVID-induced recession has caused unemployment to skyrocket, leaving thousands without the means to pay rent. In Sao Paulo, 2,000 residents were evicted, and favelas have grown in the area to accommodate the influx of people with nowhere else to go. As one evicted resident told The Associated Press, “If you don’t pay, you go to the streets.”

A favela in Rio de Janeiro. AHLN. CC BY 2.0

Luckily, residents have found another resource besides gangs: each other. Neighborhood associations in Sao Paulo created an informal emergency care service to compensate for the lack of health care. The organization rents private ambulances daily and is comprised of street captains who supervise the neighborhoods. They make regular rounds with area families to check for COVID-19 symptoms and connect the sick with necessary care. This system demonstrates the tight-knit communities that emerge from the trying circumstances of a favela. As one street captain coordinator told The Intercept, “Since people aren’t getting any help from the government, people are looking to help themselves.”

These communities will become much tighter going forward as the pandemic renders travel of all kinds unwise or impossible. Travel up the social ladder has become equally treacherous. The pandemic has taken away one of the principal ways in which people try to move out of favelas: education. Many university students have moved back in with their parents and acquired jobs to support them. Though financially necessary, the decision to forgo a college education has long-lasting repercussions. A Brazilian graduate with a bachelor’s degree earns more than double the salary of a high school graduate. 

Brazil’s favelas demonstrate the extreme inequality in the country while also highlighting residents’ ability to work together and endure. Despite receiving no assistance whatsoever from the government, community members have found lasting ways to protect themselves against the virus. Still, the sad reality that gangs have proven more competent than Jair Bolsonaro’s administration shows that the coronavirus is only one of many issues Brazil must reckon with. 

Michael McCarthy

is an undergraduate student at Haverford College, dodging the pandemic by taking a gap year. He writes in a variety of genres, and his time in high school debate renders political writing an inevitable fascination. Writing at Catalyst and the Bi-Co News, a student-run newspaper, provides an outlet for this passion. In the future, he intends to keep writing in mediums both informative and creative.

Is the South African Apartheid Actually Over?

The economic disparity in South African metropolises like Johannesburg points back to the apartheid, with one side of town obviously White and upper-middle class while the other is mostly Black and full of rundown, tottering homes.

Kuku Town, a small settlement of Black South Africans on the outskirts of Cape Town. Slum Dwellers International. CC BY 2.0.

The South African apartheid officially ended in 1994, abolishing the country’s long-standing policy of racial segregation across its social and economic relations. 26 years later, though, remnants of the apartheid are still apparent in the infrastructure of South Africa’s largest cities. As it stands, a majority of the country remains segregated as a result of systemic racism. 

South African cities Johannesburg, East Rand and East London have the greatest income inequality in the world; multimillionaires flock to luxurious homes in close proximity to overpopulated and underserved townships. It is clear that the dissolution of the apartheid state, although significant, represented more of a symbolic change than a material one. The notable rise of a Black middle class fails to overshadow the fact that almost two-thirds of South Africa’s Black population lives below the poverty line. 

Johannesburg’s central business district, which was largely abandoned by top firms in favor of the city’s affluent suburbs. Evan Bench. CC BY 2.0.

A Brief History of the Apartheid

Beginning in 1948, the South African government attempted to shift its economic and political conditions through stringent racial segregation. Spearheaded by the White supremacist National Party, the apartheid separated South Africa into four “nations”: Black Africans, “Coloureds” (those of mixed ancestry), Asians and Whites. . Whites received preferential treatment in nearly every aspect of society, with Black Africans facing the most severe discrimination.

These enforcements impacted public spaces, but also regulated marital practices and sexual relations. Black and White people were banned from participating in romantic relationships with each other. One of the most visible actualizations of segregation, though, occurred decades before the apartheid began through a series of “Land Acts.” These discriminatory laws, passed in 1913, granted 86.5% of South Africa’s property to Whites and restricted nonwhite individuals from entering these sectors without proper documentation. 

Over the decades of apartheid, there existed a constant threat of violence against nonwhite individuals by the government. Rural regions newly designated as “Whites-only” led to Black South Africans being violently removed from their homes and displaced into remote and abjectly poor regions called “Bantustans.” From 1961 to 1994, up to 3.5 million Black people were forcibly removed from their homes. The state-sanctioned violence ended in the mid-1990s with the enfranchisement of nonwhite groups and the integration of all races. The decades of government-enforced violations of basic rights, however, have solidified the material and political disadvantages of South Africa’s Black majority. 

Glimpses of the Apartheid Today

The integration which occurred in 1994 proved to be ineffectual; the historically White neighborhoods remain the same while the districts for Black people are also still homogenous. These predominantly Black neighborhoods often suffer from high crime rates and debilitating unemployment rates. The legislation regarding South African race relations may have changed, but socioeconomically, Blacks are disproportionately unemployed and paid less when in the labor market. Johannesburg’s predominantly-White suburbs of Sandton and Sandhurst taunt the majority with $10 million homes, attracting the richest 20% of the country who hold 68% of all wealth. 

A South African citizen, Ntandoyenkosi Mlambo, shared her sentiments with The Guardian about the current state of Cape Town: “The constitutional right to movement has changed so people of color are able to move in different areas. However, the economic and land ownership disadvantages which are still linked to people of color make cities inaccessible for most to live and thrive in. Also, the criminalization of homelessness further entrenches the lived reality that only a few have the right to the city.”

The lifting of the apartheid did significantly increase the size of the Black middle class and allowed some to attain wealth. However, the diversification of the suburbs can hardly be considered progress when the top 10% of Black South Africans own nearly 50% of the group’s income. The state provided grants to members of the lower class in an attempt to decrease income inequality, but the policy has so far fallen short of substantial change.

Heather Lim

recently earned her B.A. in Literatures in English from University of California, San Diego. She was editor of the Arts and Culture section of The Triton, a student-run newspaper. She plans on working in art criticism, which combines her love of visual art with her passion for journalism.

TALES OF A FEMALE SOLO ADVENTURER: Getting Off the Beaten Path

I grew up in a loving and somewhat free-spirited Canadian family. Our nomadic wanderings throughout western and northern Canada set the foundation for a life of global adventure, with my first flight from the nest being to the Central African Republic when I was 17. I spent a year there learning the local language and traveling to some of the most remote areas of that beautiful country. That was it. I was hooked on travel. I’m still going strong almost 30 years and four continents later. I relish the freedom of backpacking, but also love really living in another country and planting roots for several years. I enjoy the uniqueness of each place I visit yet what I love even more are the connections that prove the undeniable unity of the human race.

After raising three amazing children across several countries, they have all moved out and I’m solo once again. I’m currently based out of India’s Tamil Nadu state, where I focus my free time on the “3 Ts”: Travel, Trekking and Trail-running. I find solo adventuring so empowering because it allows me to test my limits and see how far I can go. Being a woman on my own I definitely take precautions, but I chose not to live in fear of what might happen. Instead, I focus on the positive and so far it's been a great journey. Photography is a recent hobby. I’m a nature lover who seeks out those “holy shit” moments of beauty that come from getting off the beaten path. 

“Home” in western Canada. During my last visit I enjoyed camping and running the trails along the Green River. This area is just a couple hours outside of Vancouver but you couldn’t feel farther from the city. And yes, that water is cold!

I’m always looking for new trails. I scan Google Maps, throw on my hydration vest and go explore. This is a small track running through rural farmland in Tamil Nadu. When I’m not traveling I’m out there seeing how far my legs will take me.

Wayanad in India’s Kerala state is an amazing place to just wander. It is so wild and lush. Every day I was there I would take a local bus and jump out when it looked interesting. Then I would take the trails up to the tea plantations and down into steamy, forested valleys. The great thing about India is that it has a good public transport system. It doesn’t matter how far or which direction my feet carry me; I will eventually find another bus to take me back to where I started.


Sometimes when you travel you stumble across the perfect moment. This was one in Mingun, Myanmar.

In January 2020 I spent a month exploring Myanmar. This photo was taken at the end of an epic section of trail. I spent three days walking from Kalaw to Inle Lake. Here, I’m taking a longboat across Inle Lake to get from the end of the trail to the nearest town where the luxury of a hot shower awaited me.

No hotels, no restaurants. I slept in small villages with local families who offered food and shelter. These are communal sleeping quarters up in the mountains of central Myanmar. When you are climbing up and down mountains all day, I can’t tell you how good it feels to be given a hot meal and a place to rest your weary bones. 

Pokhara, Nepal, is an awesome place to explore even if you opt not to do the big overnight treks in the mountains. I asked many locals and they all told me that you could not circumnavigate Phewa Lake. I kept staring at Google Maps and thinking, “I’m sure I can!” The issue was getting across the valley floor. There is a section where there is no track at all. One day I saw a farmer wade through the rice paddies and I did the same, mud up to my knees in places. Once I got across the valley, as I had seen on Google Maps, there was “trail” all the way around. I arrived back in Pokhara nine hours later, feet full of leeches but with a happy heart. 

The artist in me gets very excited about local handicrafts. I love seeing creative expression around the world. This teenage boy was oblivious of me as he patiently labored away at this masterpiece in Bagan, Myanmar.

I have been blessed with close encounters with many amazing animals. I never chase after them but enjoy when they approach me. These are Nilgiri tahr, an endangered species that inhabits the Eravikulam National Park in southern India. I was sitting on a rock and they stepped right over me and decided to hang out. I was all by myself up in the hills and it was such a magical moment.

I love a good storm! Something about the energy of the shifting skies is so invigorating. This is on the backwaters just south of Chennai, India, overlooking the Bay of Bengal.

Just outside of Kunchithanny in Kerala, India, I spent a week wandering in the mountains. I talked to locals to scope out good trails and, armed with screenshots from my trusty Google Maps, I headed out early each morning. This is one of my favorite places to trek. I can cover 15 miles by noon. The climbs are steep but well worth it. I met families at my guesthouse who spent three hours in traffic jams to catch a glimpse of the popular waterfalls outside of Munnar; meanwhile, I saw at least 20 falls and had them all to myself. This area is so welcoming. Several families brought me into their homes for food and rest. I can’t wait to go back.

Monks feeding carp in Hpa-An, southern Myanmar. This was such a magical day. First I offered a prayer to all my loved ones atop the rock tower at the pagoda in the middle of this pond. Later that day I did my hardest climb in Myanmar. I climbed to the highest point in the mountains seen in the background. It was an extremely steep vertical climb. Rough steps had been carved out of the rock but they were narrow. In places, I had to lift my leg up higher than my knees to reach the next step. It is typically a three to four hour hike. I wanted to catch the sunset so I powered up it in an hour and 20 minutes. I made it just in time and then descended in 45 minutes. When I finished, my legs were shaking and spasming uncontrollably. It actually felt great having pushed past what I thought my body was capable of.

In Ubud on the Indonesian island of Bali I would wake up at 4 a.m. and run up the mountain peaks in the dark to catch the sunrise from the mountaintops. This is where I started really building my confidence running solo in the wilderness. I wish this photo could convey the incredible birdsong that accompanied each daybreak.

My daily runs here in Tamil Nadu often involve weaving through crowds of these guys. I’m up early to catch the sunrise and enjoy South India in all her beauty.

I have learned to read the landscape, tune into my surroundings and listen to my own body. All of this has given me the freedom to keep living my best life. No regrets.

If you want to keep up to date with my adventures, follow me on Instagram @dawned_onme or check out my blog, bigbeautiful.world, to see more of my past wanderings.

Dawn Lwakila

continually takes the path less trodden, both figuratively and literally. She loves to really live in a place and grow some roots there — as well as a good wander and the freedom to explore. Canada is her homeland, but her heart and soul is scattered across the globe. She has journeyed through over 30 countries and still has an ever-growing bucket list of new places to experience.

Sri Lanka Strives Toward Gender Equality Through Economic Empowerment

Sri Lanka’s efforts to combat the gender gap allow women to support themselves and their communities. 

Women selling produce at a market in Sri Lanka. imke.sta. CC2.0

Nicknamed the “pearl of the Indian Ocean” and famous for its spices, unique culture and lush ecosystems, Sri Lanka is also known for its advances in gender equality. The island nation became in 1960 the first country in the world to elect a female prime minister, Sirimavo Bandaranaike. Sri Lanka has also long provided free and compulsory education for men and women up to the university level.

Even so, high levels of gender-based violence are present throughout the country and the unemployment rate of women is twice that of men. Most women occupy low-paying positions in agriculture and the garment industry with little chance of economic mobility. Although well-respected in the Asia-Pacific region, Sri Lanka’s educational system often enforces traditional ideological and cultural beliefs, which can perpetuate negative stereotypes about women.  A university-level education does not guarantee women positions of power, with large disparities between men and women in science, technology and political positions throughout the country. Additionally, a 26-year-long civil war (1983-2009) isolated Sri Lanka from the modern world, allowing traditional gender roles to thrive in war-affected areas.

Developing economic opportunities for women has the potential to overcome barriers to gender equality. Here are two organizations working to do just that:

Women receiving medical training provided by the Women’s Development Centre. Rajapaksa. CC2.0

The Women’s Development Center

This Sri Lanka-based nongovernmental organization has made incredible strides in supporting at-risk women, children and people with disabilities since its founding in 1986. With the goal of creating opportunities for marginalized groups, the group is on its way to “creating a just and secure society for women and children.” Although the organization has a multifaceted approach, social enterprises and economic empowerment remain its key goals. The social enterprise “Sthree”, meaning “woman” in Tamil and Sinhala, was founded in 2011 with the goal of empowering women and their local communities. The platform provides a market in Kandy for Sri Lankan women and disabled people to sell handmade products, such as saris, jewelry, decor, snacks and chutneys, recycled paper products and eco-friendly purses and handbags. Sthree also provides training and skill-building workshops for women and disabled individuals. Sthree is beginning to expand to an international clientele, even hosting an international exhibition and sale in Sweden in 2016.

A woman making brooms for a woman’s cooperative in Sri Lanka. Foley. CC2.0

Puthukkudiyiruppu Women Entrepreneurs’ Cooperative Society

The PTK Cooperative, initially founded by Krishnakumar Jeyaranjini and 14 other women in 2012, provides a platform for war-affected women to support themselves and their families economically. The business has expanded over the years, producing detergent, chili powder and rice flour. The organization has the backing of the International Labour Organization (ILO), which helps link it to buyers, markets and social enterprises. The organization enables collaboration between women from different ethnic groups and communities in Sri Lanka, helping to create social cohesion and tolerance. The organization continues to defy gender norms and stereotypes.  “Often the words ‘woman’ and ‘detergent’ bring out gendered images of a woman washing clothes at home, not of a woman owning or running a successful detergent-producing enterprise,” said Simrin Singh, director of the ILO country office for Sri Lanka. “It is stories of our work empowering women like Jeyaranjini, building block by block, that are the essential inspiration so many other women in this country could use to break the barriers to their empowerment.”

Although Sri Lanka has made considerable progress toward gender equality in the last 50 years, many obstacles remain. Empowering women at a grassroots level helps provide women more economic agency while ensuring the well-being of generations to come. 

Megan Gürer

Megan is a Turkish-American student at Wellesley College in Massachusetts studying Biological Sciences. Passionate about environmental issues and learning about other cultures, she dreams of exploring the globe. In her free time, she enjoys cooking, singing, and composing music.

Myanmar Government Blocks Website Exposing Military Corruption 

The website for Justice for Myanmar, which is dedicated to exposing military corruption, was blocked by the country’s government for spreading fake news. Over 200 websites have been blocked in the past year.

Screenshot of the Justice for Myanmar homepage.

On Aug. 27, all mobile operators and service providers in Myanmar received a directive from the government to block the Justice for Myanmar website for purportedly spreading fake news. Justice for Myanmar was launched on April 28 by an anonymous group of activists aiming to expose military corruption and advocate for federal democracy and peace. Campaigning for Myanmar’s Nov. 8 general elections began a week after the shutdown, raising concerns that the government was attempting to silence scrutiny and criticism of the elections. 

In May, Justice for Myanmar exposed that two top government officials were also directors of Myanmar Economic Holdings Company Limited, a military-owned company, leading to both officials’ resignations from its board. More recently, Justice for Myanmar revealed that a construction company under contract for the government has ties to Lt. Gen. Soe Htut. The site also published allegations that a medical company offering Food and Drug Administration approvals is owned by the family of Sr. Gen. Min Aung Hlaing. 

The military controlled Myanmar for decades, until it was replaced by a civilian government in 2011. The current government is headed by Aung San Suu Kyi of the National League for Democracy (NLD), who serves as State Counsellor. She led the NLD to victory in 2015 during Myanmar’s first openly contested election in 25 years. Despite having a democratic ruler, Myanmar is not free from military rule. A 2008 constitutional provision still guarantees the military seats in parliament. One-quarter of parliamentary seats are held by the military, which also controls the country’s defense, border affairs and home affairs ministries.

Aung San Suu Kyi, once regarded as a prime example of a democratic leader, has been the target of international criticism in recent years for her handling of the Rohingya crisis and her persecution of media and activist groups. 

In the past year, Aung San Suu Kyi’s government has blocked over 200 websites for allegedly spreading fake news, using Section 77 of the Telecommunications Law. The section allows action to stop the spread of misinformation. Myanmar’s government received criticism earlier this year for limiting press freedom and the flow of information during the pandemic by blocking news sites. The government also imposed an internet blackout in nine townships in the Rakhine and Chin states and in April 2020 ordered a mass blocking of the websites of ethnic media organizations. These actions, as well as the shutdown of the Justice for Myanmar website just a week before campaigning for the general elections began, have been causes for concern from the media, community organizations and rights groups. 

Yadanar Maung, a Justice for Myanmar spokesperson, said in a recent press release that the group condemns “the Myanmar government’s attack on our right to freedom of expression and the people of Myanmar's right to information.” Telenor Myanmar, one of the service providers that received the directive to block the Justice for Myanmar site, has opened communication with the government to protest the blocking. A statement on Telenor Myanmar’s website urges the government “to increase transparency for the public” and asserts that the government’s directive does not respect the rights to freedom of expression or access to information. 

Many groups and individuals, including James Rodehaver of the U.N. Human Rights Office, have called for reform of the Telecommunications Law.

Rachel Lynch

is a student at Sarah Lawrence College in Bronxville, NY currently taking a semester off. She plans to study Writing and Child Development. Rachel loves to travel and is inspired by the places she’s been and everywhere she wants to go. She hopes to educate people on social justice issues and the history and culture of travel destinations through her writing.

Beyond the Wall, Berlin’s Multicultural Roots Shine Through

When Germany’s capital is mentioned, people often think of Berlin’s turbulent history, thriving arts scene and hipster culture. However, multiculturalism ought to also come to mind. With 21% of its population hailing from non-German backgrounds representing 190 countries, Berlin is becoming a true melting pot. Often nicknamed “Multikulti,” Berlin portrays itself as a tolerant city aiming to attract talent from abroad while celebrating its diversity within.  

Guest-workers from Hungary in East Germany. Lehmann. 30 Sept. 1988. CC3.0

A History of Migration 

After World War II, the Allied Powers divided Berlin into four regions. The American, British and French regions made up West Berlin and the region occupied by the Soviet Union made up East Berlin. Immigration to Berlin was largely influenced by the dynamics of the divided city’s various zones. After the war, there was a strong need for labor to help rebuild Germany. West Germany recruited “guest-workers” to fill this need from nearby areas such as Turkey and southeastern Europe. The East German government recruited guest-workers from other socialist countries, such as North Vietnam and North Korea. More recently, many immigrants escaping conflicts in the Middle East and North Africa have sought refuge in Berlin.

An Arabic market in Neukolln Gürer CC2.0

Multicultural Districts in Berlin

Although Berlin has a sizable international population, being an immigrant in the city is not without its problems. Areas of Berlin with high immigrant populations tend to be weaker economically and are known for social problems including high unemployment, increased crime rates, drug trafficking and gentrification. Ethnic minorities are usually present only in certain neighborhoods and are underrepresented in German popular culture and politics. Immigrants are also subjected to acts of hatred and violence due to strongholds of White nationalism in areas of East Berlin. Additionally, previous immigration policies in Berlin have focused on tolerating, rather than accepting, immigrants in the city. The term “Auslander” or foreigner negatively refers to immigrants in Germany, speaking to the difficulties they face with integrating into German society.

However, things are slowly changing. Immigrant communities in Berlin are proudly showcasing their cultures for others to see. Travelers who visit Berlin’s multicultural hubs can help change the narrative of immigration in Germany. 

Sehitlik Mosque in Berlin’s Neukolln district. Zairon CC International 4.0

Neukolln

Today, the majority of Berlin’s immigrant population resides in the center of the city in the districts of Neukolln and Kreuzberg. Although previously known for its unemployment and drug problems, Neukolln is reinventing itself as a hip and multicultural center. One of Neukolln’s iconic areas is Sonnenallee, often nicknamed “Arab Street,” which is home to many Middle Eastern restaurants, grocery stores and baklava shops. Walking through Sonnenallee, one is nearly as likely to hear various Arabic dialects and Turkish as German. Neukolln is also home to the Sehitlik Mosque, which is the most visited mosque in Berlin. The mosque participates in the Long Night of Religions, an annual event where houses of worship all over the city open their doors to the public to promote tolerance and interreligious dialogue. 

Turkish market in Kreuzberg. Gürer. CC2.0

Kreuzberg

Berlin’s Kreuzberg district is often nicknamed “Little Istanbul” for good reason; the neighborhood is home to the largest Turkish population outside of Turkey. On Tuesdays and Fridays, Kreuzberg hosts an expansive Turkish Market, selling everything from fresh produce and spices to fabrics and street food. Kreuzberg is an excellent place to try Turkish staples such as doner kebab and gozleme. Markthalle Neun is another acclaimed international market in Berlin. On Thursday evenings, it hosts “Street Food Thursday” with seemingly endless vendors serving diverse culinary options. Berlin’s Jewish Museum, also located in Kreuzberg, is the largest museum in Europe focusing on Jewish history and culture. Known for its nightlife and hip culture, Kreuzburg is rising in popularity. At the same time, this has given rise to gentrification which makes it difficult for migrant families to afford life there. 

One of the many warehouses in the Dong Xuan Center in East Berlin. Gürer. CC2.0

East Berlin’s Vietnamese Population 

Vietnamese make up the largest Southeast Asian population in Berlin, most of whom reside in the eastern part of the city. The Dong Xuan Center in Lichtenberg is home to Berlin’s hub of Vietnamese culture: a warehouse-like market that contains vegetable shops, clothing stores, beauty salons and authentic restaurants. 

The House of World Cultures in Berlin. Mennerich. CC 2.0

House of World Cultures 

Founded in 1989, the House of World Cultures is an arts and cultural center that hosts exhibitions, conferences and themes focused predominantly on non-Western cultures and societies. Located in the Tiergarten area near the Spree River, the center’s primary focus is to provide Berliners with an authentic view of contemporary art and culture from around the world. Past events include a Korean film festival and various world music events. 

Performer at the annual Carnival of Cultures. Reichert. CC 2.0

Carnival of Cultures

The Carnival of Cultures is a four-day celebration of Berlin’s cultural diversity that occurs every spring. Festivities include music, dance, street performances, street food and crafts. On Pentecost Sunday, the last day of the celebration, a procession of floats travels through Kreuzberg.

Immigration has shaped Berlin’s culture and history for decades, providing a fascinating framework for travelers to explore. Despite the contested status of refugees in Germany today, migration into Berlin is nothing new. Visiting these multicultural spaces is a step toward tolerance and appreciation of the beauty and diversity so often brought about by means of immigration.

Megan Gürer

is a Turkish-American student at Wellesley College in Massachusetts studying Biological Sciences. Passionate about environmental issues and learning about other cultures, she dreams of exploring the globe. In her free time, she enjoys cooking, singing, and composing music.

Zimbabwe’s Mining Ban: A Potential Empty Promise?

The government of Zimbabwe now bans mining in its national parks, but environmentalists argue that the prohibition is hardly adequate. 

An elephant at a watering hole in Zimbabwe’s Hwange National Park. BARMCD. CC BY-NC 2.0.

After mounting pressure from conservationists, Zimbabwe’s government has declared a mining ban in the country’s national parks. Reports have circulated that Chinese companies are scouting out coal mining sites in Hwange National Park, Zimbabwe’s largest national reserve. The park stretches over nearly 6,000 square miles and is home to about 50,000 of Zimbabwe’s estimated 86,000 elephants. Extensive conservation projects are conducted in the region to preserve its plethora of wildlife species, but the call to protect the elephant population has drawn the most intense focus.

The government’s new ban is the result of a case brought to the country’s High Court by the Zimbabwe Environmental Lawyers Association. The group argues that mining would destabilize the park’s biodiversity while injuring the fragile ecotourism sector. This case was first brought to the High Court after officials of Afrochine Energy and Zimbabwe Zhongxin Coal Mining Group were arrested for conducting illegal mining projects only to be released with special permission by Zimbabwe’s President. Outrage immediately ensued, and conservationists rode the wave of anger to action. 

The immense pressure on the government to implement change follows months of anger by environmentalists claiming that Chinese mining companies have already caused catastrophic damage in other regions of Zimbabwe. Environmentalists explain that the companies dump toxic waste, clogging precious dams and resulting in substantial drops in local wildlife populations. Locals also resent the presence of Chinese mining companies due to diminishing livestock populations and disrupted irrigation routes. 

Environmental groups also argue that mining will perpetuate the drought and overcrowding problems that have already killed hundreds of elephants. Local residents deal with regular poaching disputes and rely heavily on income from ecotourism; so, many fear that failure to hold off Chinese mining companies could cause  economic damage and increased levels of conflict. Furthermore, many Zimbabweans believe that mining in Hwange is only one piece of the bigger picture. Gold and diamond mining sites pepper other parts of the nation, causing equal degrees of environmental destruction to the over 1,000 species of animals that roam the country.

Tusks removed from a poached elephant. Sokwanele. CC BY-NC-SA 2.0.

For now, it seems that the government of Zimbabwe has yielded to the demands of conservation groups, but environmentalists appear far from satisfied. The government says that it is canceling current mining titles, but conservationists are doubtful that this is enough. Shamiso Mtisi, deputy director of the Zimbabwe Environmental Lawyers Association, states that the group is demanding an interdict, which is a legally binding prohibition. Pressure on the government to act quickly increased significantly in the past week as 11 young elephants died due to an unknown bacterial infection. Investigations are now proceeding to determine the cause of the elephants’ deaths, and whether poisoning may be linked to nearby mining activity. 

Although the High Court’s verdict is already known, but whether or not Zimbabwe’s government will take the necessary steps to save the country’s natural and economic resources remains a mystery.

Ella Nguyen

is an undergraduate student at Vassar College pursuing a degree in Hispanic Studies. She wants to assist in the field of immigration law and hopes to utilize Spanish in her future projects. In her free time she enjoys cooking, writing poetry, and learning about cosmetics.

Algeria’s Relationship with the Media Grows Tense Amid Political Woes

On Aug. 10, Algerian officials sentenced journalist Khaled Drareni to three years in prison for reporting on the 2019 Hirak protests. Calling for the removal of Algerian President Abdelaziz Bouteflika, the Hirak pro-democracy protests were some of the largest anti-government demonstrations since the Algerian civil war in the 1990s. While the protests were successful in removing Bouteflika from power, Algerian activists are unsatisfied with the corruption that still drives the Algerian government. Drareni’s sentencing has amplified the divide between independent publications and state-run media, drawing attention to the censorship that Algerian journalists face.

Hirak protests in Algiers. Becker. CC BY 2.0.

From 1991 to 2002, Algeria was engaged in a civil war between the government and Islamist political groups. Throughout this unrest, journalists in Algeria explored the many human rights abuses present in the country. As the war began to resolve in 1999, Abdelaziz Bouteflika was elected president of Algeria. With his 2005 Charter for Peace and National Reconciliation, he offered amnesty to groups that committed violence between 1992 and 2006. While this charter protected many Algerians from prosecution, Bouteflika also used it to restrict the press from investigating human rights violations. 

Following the enactment of this charter, independent publications were allowed a modicum of freedom as they operated independently of the state. However, the divide between independent publications and the Algerian state-run media only grew as Bouteflika consolidated his power.

An Algerian soldier barricades a street. Magha Rebia. CC BY 2.0.

In recent years, as pro-democracy movements gain traction in Algeria, independent publications have generally been the only media covering the protests. With tensions between Algerian citizens and the government mounting over the past decade, independent publications have been increasingly villainized by the state. Using state-owned companies as leverage, the Algerian government has stripped most independent publications of their primary source of income—advertisements. 

Within the past year, multiple independent media outlets critical of the regime have been blocked, including Maghreb Emergent and Radio M. Reporters Without Borders, an international organization that works to protect freedom of the press globally, now ranks Algeria 146th out of 180 countries in the 2020 World Press Freedom Index, which evaluates the degree of freedom awarded to journalists. Algeria’s ranking in this index has dropped drastically in the past five years -- in 2015, Algeria was ranked 27 places higher. 


The imprisonment of Khaled Drareni only amplifies the harsh restrictions being gradually imposed on the Algerian media. In April 2020, Algeria passed a law criminalizing “fake news” to maintain “public order and state security.” This law increases the repression of journalists in an already corrupt state. With privately-owned media facing severe blockades, social media has become a driving force in disseminating information to young people across the country. Social media platforms have become a pivotal tool for activists, allowing them to coordinate nonviolent protests and spread news that is not aired on radio or television. This movement has encouraged reporters at state-backed media companies to resign and actively fight for marginalized voices to be heard. Algeria remains in a state of flux as reporters stripped of their formal platforms are actively working toward freedom of the press through alternative means of communication.

Sarah Leidich

is currently an English and Film major at Barnard College of Columbia University. Sarah is inspired by global art in every form, and hopes to explore the intersection of activism, art, and storytelling through her writing.